Step-by-Step How To Sew A Blind Hem With A Sewing Machine

Do you want to sew a hem on your clothes that you can barely see? You can sew a blind hem stitch with a sewing machine! It makes a hem that looks almost invisible from the outside of your fabric. This guide will show you how to do it step by step.

A blind hem is a sewing method. It lets you finish the edge of a fabric item, like a skirt or pants leg. The goal is to make the stitches hard to see from the front of the fabric. It is often used on skirts, dresses, pants, and curtains. It gives a clean and professional look. Sewing a blind hem by machine can be fast and give a very nice finish once you know the right steps.

What is a Blind Hem?

A blind hem stitch is special. It picks up only a tiny bit of fabric on the main side. Most of the stitch runs inside the hem fold. When you look at the outside of the item, you see just small dots of thread. These dots match your fabric color. This makes the hem seem to disappear.

Why Use a Machine for Blind Hemming?

Sewing a blind hem by hand is a classic way. But using a sewing machine is often faster. It can give a more even stitch too. Once you have your sewing machine blind hem foot set up, and you find the right blind hem stitch settings, you can hem items quickly. It is a great skill for making ready-to-wear clothes look better.

What You Need

Gather these items before you start.
* The fabric item you want to hem (like pants, skirt, or curtain).
* Matching thread.
* Your sewing machine.
* A blind hem foot for your sewing machine (most machines come with one or you can buy one).
* An iron and ironing board.
* Fabric scissors.
* Pins or fabric clips.
* A seam gauge or ruler.
* Chalk or a fabric marking pen (optional).

Getting Your Fabric Ready

Good preparation is key. It makes sewing much easier. It helps you get a perfect blind hem stitch.

Decide Your Hem Length

First, decide how long you want your finished item to be. Mark this length. Use chalk or a pin. Remember to leave extra fabric below this line for the hem itself.

Trim the Extra Fabric

Most blind hems need about 1.5 to 2 inches (3 to 5 cm) of extra fabric below your desired length line. This is called the hem allowance. If you have more than this, trim it away. Use sharp fabric scissors. Make sure the edge is straight and even all around.

Finish the Raw Edge

The very bottom edge of your fabric needs finishing. This stops it from fraying. You can use a serger if you have one. Or you can use a zigzag stitch on your regular machine. Some fabrics do not fray much. For these, you might skip this step. But it is usually a good idea for most woven fabrics.

Using a Serger: Sew along the raw edge with your serger.
Using a Sewing Machine:
- Set your machine to a zigzag stitch.
- Stitch close to the raw edge.
- This edge will be hidden inside the hem fold.

Pressing Fabric for Blind Hem

This step is very important. Do not skip it. Pressing creates crisp folds. These folds guide your sewing machine blind hem foot perfectly. This is part of the pressing fabric for blind hem process.

First Press: Fold the raw edge up by about 1/4 inch (6mm). Press this fold flat. This fold is small and neat. It will be hidden later.
Second Press: Now, fold the hem up again. Fold it up to your marked hem line. Make sure the first small fold is inside this bigger fold. The amount you fold up is your hem allowance, minus the small first fold. If your total allowance was 2 inches, and the first fold was 1/4 inch, this second fold will be about 1.75 inches. Press this second fold firmly. Use steam if your fabric allows it. Make sure the hem is even all the way around. Use your seam gauge to check the fold depth.

Now you have a double-folded hem. The raw edge is tucked neatly inside. This double fold makes a clean finish. It adds weight to the hem.

Folding Hem for Blind Stitching

This is the special fold for machine blind hemming. It is different from a normal hem fold. This fold lets the machine needle catch just a tiny bit of the main fabric. This is the core of folding hem for blind stitching.

Lay your item flat. The wrong side of the fabric should be facing you.
Your hem is already folded and pressed up towards the wrong side.
Now, take the folded hem edge. Fold the main fabric back away from the hem. Fold it so the finished edge of your hem sticks out by about 1/4 to 3/8 inch (6 to 10mm).
The wrong side of your main fabric is now touching the wrong side of the hem allowance. The right side of your main fabric is showing on the folded-back part.
Pin this fold in place. Pin close to the inner edge of the hem. The pins should go through the single layer of main fabric and the double layer of the hem.
You will sew along this folded edge. The small lip of hem sticking out is where your blind hem foot will ride.

Look at the fold again. You have the main fabric folded back. Below that, you have the hem allowance. The top edge of the hem allowance sticks out a little bit. This little bit is what the blind hem stitch will catch.

Setting Up Your Sewing Machine

Getting your machine ready is vital. This is part of proper blind hem machine setup. You need the right foot and the correct stitch settings.

Attach the Blind Hem Foot

Your sewing machine likely came with a special foot for blind hemming. It looks different from a standard foot. It usually has a guide in the center. This guide is a piece of metal or plastic. It helps keep your fabric fold in line.

Turn off your sewing machine.
Remove the regular presser foot.
Attach the blind hem foot. Make sure it clicks into place correctly.

Now you know how to use a blind hem foot initially – you attach it! The magic happens when you sew. The guide on the foot rides along the edge of your fabric fold.

Choose the Blind Hem Stitch Settings

Finding the correct stitch is next. Your machine has many stitches. Look for the blind hem stitch. It looks like a straight line with zigzags sticking out to the left every few stitches.

Set your machine to the blind hem stitch.
There are usually two types: one for woven fabric and one for knit fabric. The knit stitch has more zigzags or a slight stretch. Use the one for your fabric type.
This sets your blind hem stitch settings.

Stitch Length Blind Hem Machine

Now adjust the stitch length and width. This is crucial for getting an invisible hem stitch by machine.

Stitch Length: This controls how far apart the straight stitches are. A longer stitch length means the straight stitches are more spaced out. This helps the stitch blend in. Start with a length of 2.5 to 3. On some machines, the stitch length is tied to the blind hem stitch setting itself. You may only be able to adjust the zigzag width.
Stitch Width: This controls how wide the zigzag part of the stitch is. This is the most important setting for invisibility. The zigzag stitch must be wide enough to just catch the very edge of your main fabric fold. If it is too wide, it will show clearly on the front. If it is too narrow, it will not catch the main fabric at all, and your hem will not be secured.
Test: Always test your settings on a scrap piece of the same fabric. Fold the scrap just like your hem. Sew on it. Look at the front. Do you see small dots? Good. Are the dots too big? Is the zigzag too wide? Adjust the stitch width down. Does the stitch miss the main fabric? Adjust the stitch width up slightly. This testing helps you get the proper blind hem machine setup for your specific fabric and thread. Fine-tuning the stitch width is key to the blind hem machine technique.

Sewing the Blind Hem

You are ready to sew. This is where you use the blind hem machine technique.

Place your folded fabric under the presser foot. The wrong side of the fabric is up.
Make sure the guide on the blind hem foot runs right along the edge of your main fabric fold. The fold you made in step 6 of “Folding Hem for Blind Stitching” is the guide for the foot.
Lower the presser foot.
Start sewing slowly. Watch how the needle moves.
- Most of the stitches will be straight stitches, running along the edge of the hem allowance. The guide helps keep these stitches in a straight line on the hem allowance.
- Every few stitches, the machine will make a zigzag stitch to the left. This zigzag stitch should swing over and just catch the tiny bit of main fabric sticking out beyond the guide.
Keep feeding the fabric smoothly. Keep the fold pressed against the guide on the foot. This keeps your stitches even and helps the zigzag catch the fabric correctly.
Sew all the way around the hem. Overlap your stitches slightly at the end.
Lift the presser foot. Cut your threads.

Adjusting Blind Hem Stitch

Sometimes the first try is not perfect. That is okay. You can adjust. This is about adjusting blind hem stitch results.

Check the front: Turn your item right side out. Look closely at the hem. Do you see only very small dots of thread?
If stitches are too visible:
- The stitch width might be too wide. Reduce the stitch width slightly on your machine.
- Your thread color might not match well enough.
- The tension might be off. Check your machine’s upper and bobbin tension. Often slightly looser upper tension can help the stitch sink into the fabric.
- Your fabric fold might not have been right. The main fabric fold needs to be right next to the hem edge.
If stitches are missing the fabric:
- The stitch width might be too narrow. Increase the stitch width slightly.
- The guide on the foot was not running exactly along the edge of the fabric fold. Make sure the edge stays right against the guide.
- You folded the main fabric back too far. The little lip of hem needs to stick out enough for the needle to catch it.

Remember your test scraps. Use them again to try new settings. Practice makes perfect. Adjusting the stitch width is the most common tweak needed.

Finishing the Hem

You are almost done! The last step makes your blind hem look its best.

Unfold the Fabric

Carefully unfold the main fabric back to its normal position. The hem is now fully folded up inside the garment.

Press the Hem

Press the finished hem from the wrong side of the fabric. Press it flat. This helps the stitches sink in. It makes the hem smooth. Use steam appropriate for your fabric. Be careful not to press too hard on bulky seams.

Check Again

Look at the right side of your fabric one last time. The hem should be smooth. The stitches should be very hard to see. You made an invisible hem stitch by machine!

Tips for Great Results

Use the Right Needle: A universal needle works for most fabrics. For very fine or stretchy fabrics, a sharp or ballpoint needle might work better.
Thread: Use good quality thread. Matching the thread color perfectly to your fabric is key for invisibility.
Fabric Type: Blind hemming works best on woven fabrics. It can work on knits too, but you need the knit blind hem stitch and sometimes a different technique for finishing the raw edge.
Corners and Curves: Blind hemming corners and curves can be tricky. For corners, fold them neatly and press well before folding the hem. For curves, clip the hem allowance slightly before folding to help it lay flat.
Practice: Sew a blind hem on scraps first. Get comfortable with the foot and settings.

Deciphering the Blind Hem Foot

The blind hem foot seems simple, but that guide is its most important part. Let’s look closer at how to use a blind hem foot.

The foot usually has an adjustable guide or a fixed one. This guide runs along the edge of your fabric fold (the part where the main fabric is folded back and the hem edge sticks out).

As you sew, keep the edge of the main fabric (the fold you made) pressed right against the guide.
The straight stitches of the blind hem stitch will sew onto the hem allowance, to the right of the guide.
When the zigzag stitch happens, the needle will swing left. Because the guide is holding the fabric edge just to the left of the straight stitches, the needle swings over the guide and picks up that tiny amount of main fabric.

If the guide on your foot is adjustable, you can move it left or right. This changes where the straight stitches fall on the hem allowance relative to the zigzag catching the main fabric. Most feet have a screw or lever to move the guide. Adjust the guide position along with the stitch width to fine-tune how much fabric the zigzag catches. Moving the guide more to the left means the zigzag has less distance to travel to catch the main fabric fold.

Using the guide correctly is the secret to the blind hem machine technique. It ensures that tiny, consistent bite of fabric on the front.

Stitch Details: Grasping Blind Hem Stitch Settings

Let’s look again at the blind hem stitch settings. On your machine’s display or dial, the blind hem stitch looks like this: ---|---|---|--- with the \ parts being the zigzags that go left.

The --- part: These are straight stitches. They sew onto the folded hem allowance. They run parallel to the hem edge. Their length is controlled by the stitch length setting. A longer length (like 2.5-3 or more) makes these stitches less visible on the inside of the hem.
The \ part: This is the zigzag stitch that goes to the left. This is the part that catches the main fabric. Its width is controlled by the stitch width setting. This is the most important setting to adjust for invisibility.

Think of it this way: The guide on the foot keeps the fabric fold in place. The stitch length sets how often the zigzag happens. The stitch width sets how far left the zigzag goes to bite into the main fabric.

For a very light fabric, you want a small stitch width (perhaps 1 or 2 mm). For a heavier fabric, you might need a slightly wider stitch (perhaps 2.5 or 3 mm) to make sure the needle actually grabs some threads. Testing is key.

The proper stitch length blind hem machine uses is long enough that the straight stitches disappear into the fabric weave or texture on the inside of the hem.

Interpreting the Blind Hem Machine Technique

The success of the blind hem machine technique comes from this specific fold and stitch.

The Fold: Creating that precise fold where the hem allowance edge sticks out a bit is crucial. It gives the zigzag stitch something to grab onto without sewing a full zigzag onto the main fabric.
The Foot: The blind hem foot’s guide keeps the fold steady and in the correct position relative to the needle’s path.
The Stitch: The blind hem stitch itself alternates between sewing on the hem allowance (the straight stitches) and taking a tiny bite of the main fabric fold (the zigzag).

When done correctly, the straight stitches are hidden within the hem. The zigzag stitches just barely go through to the front of the main fabric, showing only as tiny dots if they show at all. This is the goal of an invisible hem stitch by machine.

This technique is very efficient. Once you have the settings right, you can hem pants or skirts very quickly compared to hand sewing.

Fathoming Proper Blind Hem Machine Setup

Let’s review proper blind hem machine setup for the best results.

Correct Foot: Using the specific blind hem foot is non-negotiable. A standard foot will not work.
Correct Stitch: Select the blind hem stitch (woven or knit). Do not just use a regular zigzag.
Correct Settings:
- Stitch Length: Long enough so straight stitches are hidden on the hem allowance. Usually 2.5+.
- Stitch Width: The most critical. Adjusted so the zigzag just catches the fabric edge. Test on scraps!
- Tension: Balanced, perhaps slightly looser upper tension. Test this too.
Needle and Thread: Match these to your fabric type and color.

Having this setup correct before you start sewing the actual garment saves time and frustration. It ensures the blind hem machine technique works as intended.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Here are some problems you might face and how to fix them.

Problem	Possible Cause	Solution
Stitches show too much on front	Stitch width too wide	Reduce stitch width. Test on scrap.
	Thread color mismatch	Use thread that matches fabric better.
	Fabric fold not tight against guide	Press fold firmly against foot guide while sewing.
	Top tension too tight	Reduce upper thread tension slightly. Test.
Stitch misses main fabric completely	Stitch width too narrow	Increase stitch width slightly. Test on scrap.
	Fabric fold too far from foot guide	Make sure fabric fold edge stays right against the guide.
	Hem allowance folded back too far	Unfold, refold main fabric back less, so hem edge sticks out more. Press.
Hem is wavy or stretched	Pulling or pushing fabric	Let machine feed fabric. Do not pull. Ensure fabric is flat.
	Knit fabric without knit stitch	Use the knit blind hem stitch setting if available.
Fabric puckers along the stitch	Tension too tight	Reduce upper thread tension. Test.
	Stitch length too short	Increase stitch length.
	Incorrect needle for fabric type	Use a needle better suited to the fabric (e.g., ballpoint for knits).

Learning adjusting blind hem stitch based on these issues helps you master the technique. Each fabric might need slightly different fine-tuning.

FAQ

Here are answers to common questions about machine blind hemming.

Can I sew a blind hem on any fabric?
You can sew a blind hem on most woven fabrics. It is also possible on many knit fabrics, but you need the correct stitch setting (knit blind hem stitch) and often different edge finishing. Very sheer or very thick fabrics can be challenging.
Do I have to use a blind hem foot?
Yes, a blind hem foot is essential for getting the special stitch pattern and invisibility. The guide on the foot is key.
Why do my stitches still show a lot?
The most common reason is the stitch width is too wide. It is catching too much main fabric. Reduce the stitch width setting slightly. Also, check your thread color match and tension.
My machine does not have a blind hem stitch. Can I still do it?
No, you need a machine that has the specific blind hem stitch pattern (the straight stitches with occasional left zigzags). Some basic machines might not have it. You would need to do a hand-sewn blind hem instead.
How much fabric do I need for the hem allowance?
Generally, 1.5 to 2 inches (3-5 cm) is a good amount. This allows for the double fold and gives enough fabric for the foot to work with.
Should I use a different color thread in the bobbin?
No, use the same matching thread in the bobbin as on top.
What is the difference between the woven and knit blind hem stitch?
The knit blind hem stitch usually incorporates a bit more stretch. It might have smaller zigzags or a different pattern to prevent breaking stitches on stretchy fabrics.

In Conclusion

Sewing a blind hem with a sewing machine is a valuable skill. It gives garments a clean, professional finish. By following these steps – from pressing fabric for blind hem and folding hem for blind stitching, to the proper blind hem machine setup, mastering the blind hem machine technique, using the sewing machine blind hem foot correctly, setting the blind hem stitch settings and stitch length blind hem machine, and knowing how to use a blind hem foot and how to make adjusting blind hem stitch – you can create beautiful, nearly invisible hem stitch by machine. Practice on scraps first to get your blind hem machine technique just right. Soon, you will be blind hemming everything!