Sew Better: Learn How To Pin Fabric For Sewing Right

What is pinning fabric for sewing? It’s a simple but key step where you use small metal or plastic pins to hold pieces of fabric or a pattern to fabric in place before you sew them. Why do people pin fabric? Pinning keeps your fabric from moving or slipping while you sew, helping you get straight seams and accurate results. Can you sew without pins? Yes, sometimes, but for most projects, pinning is highly recommended, especially for beginners, as it makes sewing much easier and more precise. Who uses sewing pins? Anyone who sews uses them! From hobbyists making clothes to professionals crafting intricate designs, sewing pins are a basic tool found in every sewing kit.

Pinning fabric might seem like a small thing, but doing it right can make a big difference in your sewing projects. Good pinning leads to straight lines, perfectly matched seams, and fewer mistakes. Bad pinning can cause fabric to shift, stretch, or pucker, making your finished item look messy. This guide will help you master the art of pinning fabric for sewing. We will look at different types of sewing pins, basic fabric pinning techniques, how to handle tricky fabrics like slippery ones, and the best way to pin fabric for various tasks like pinning seams and pinning patterns to fabric. Let’s get started!

How To Pin Fabric For Sewing
Image Source: stitchclinic.com

Why Pinning Is Important for Good Sewing

Think of pinning as the foundation for your sewing project. It’s the step that prepares your fabric for stitching. Without this preparation, your fabric pieces might slide apart as they go under the sewing machine needle. This shifting causes seams to become wavy or uneven.

Here’s why pinning is a must-do step:

Keeps Layers Together: It holds two or more layers of fabric perfectly aligned.
Holds Patterns: It keeps your paper pattern pieces firmly on the fabric so you can cut accurately.
Guides Stitching: Pins can act as temporary markers for where you need to sew.
Prevents Stretching: By holding fabric taut in the right places, pins help prevent certain fabrics from stretching out of shape as you sew.
Ensures Accuracy: When edges are held together precisely, your seams will be the correct width, and pieces will fit together as planned.

Taking a few extra minutes to pin properly saves you time and frustration later. It’s much easier to fix a pin placement than to unpick a crooked seam!

Learning About Sewing Pins

Sewing pins are not all the same. They come in different sizes, materials, and tip types. Choosing the right pin for your fabric is key to good pinning. Using the wrong pin can damage delicate fabrics or be ineffective on thick ones. Let’s look at the main types of sewing pins and how to use sewing pins effectively.

Types of Sewing Pins

There are many kinds of sewing pins available. Knowing the differences helps you pick the best one for the job.

Dressmaker Pins: These are the most common type. They are medium-fine and usually have a metal or plastic head. They work well for most woven fabrics.
Silk Pins: These are extra fine and sharp. They are designed for delicate fabrics like silk, satin, and synthetics. Their thinness prevents snags and large holes.
Ballpoint Pins: These pins have a rounded tip instead of a sharp point. They are made for knit fabrics. The rounded tip pushes between the fabric loops instead of piercing them, which helps prevent runs or damage in knits.
Quilting Pins: These are longer than dressmaker pins. The extra length makes them good for holding multiple layers of fabric and batting, like in quilting.
Glass Head Pins: These pins have a head made of glass. The big advantage is that the glass head won’t melt if it touches a hot iron. This makes them great for projects where you need to press seams while pins are still in place.
Plastic Head Pins: Similar to glass head pins, but the heads are plastic. They are colorful and easy to see. However, the plastic can melt if touched by a hot iron, so be careful when pressing.
T-Pins: These pins have a bar across the top, like a ‘T’. They are strong and easy to grip. They are often used for pinning through thick or heavy fabrics, upholstery, or for blocking knitted items.
Appliqué Pins: These are very short, fine pins, often with small heads. They are perfect for holding small pieces in place for appliqué work.

Here is a quick look at some common types:

Pin Type	Best Use Case	Key Feature	Caution
Dressmaker Pins	Most woven fabrics	Standard, versatile	Can snag fine fabrics
Silk Pins	Delicate fabrics (silk, satin)	Extra fine and sharp	Can bend easily
Ballpoint Pins	Knit fabrics	Rounded tip	Not sharp enough for wovens
Quilting Pins	Multiple layers, thick fabrics, quilting	Longer length	May be too thick for fine work
Glass Head Pins	Any fabric, especially when pressing is needed	Heat-resistant head	Glass heads can break
Plastic Head Pins	Any fabric (easy to see)	Brightly colored head	Heads can melt from heat
T-Pins	Heavy fabric, upholstery, blocking	Strong, T-shaped head	Large holes in fine fabric
Appliqué Pins	Small pieces, detailed work	Short length, small head	Not suitable for thick layers

Choosing the Right Pin Size and Sharpness

Besides the type, the size and sharpness of your pins matter.

Thickness: Use thin pins for delicate or tightly woven fabrics to avoid making noticeable holes or snags. Use thicker, stronger pins for heavy or loosely woven fabrics where thin pins might bend.
Length: Longer pins can hold more layers securely. Shorter pins are less likely to get in your way for very detailed work.
Sharpness: Always use sharp pins. Dull pins can damage fabric by forcing their way through threads instead of sliding between them. If a pin doesn’t go into the fabric easily, it’s probably dull. Throw away bent or dull pins.

Keeping a few different types of sewing pins on hand is a good idea. This way, you will always have the right tool for the fabric you are working with.

Mastering Basic Fabric Pinning Techniques

Now that you know about the different types of sewing pins, let’s talk about how to actually use them to hold your fabric for sewing. There are a few basic fabric pinning techniques that are helpful to know.

Pinning Straight Seams

For sewing straight lines, like side seams on a skirt or a basic bodice, there are two main ways to place your pins:

Pinning Perpendicular to the Edge: This is the most common method, and often the best way to pin fabric for machine sewing.
- Align the edges of your fabric pieces perfectly.
- Insert the pin so it goes into the fabric layers at a 90-degree angle to the raw edge. The pin head should point outwards, away from the fabric edge you will sew.
- Space the pins out evenly. For most fabrics, a pin every 2-4 inches is enough. For fine or slippery fabrics, you might need them closer together.
- When you sew, you can often sew right over these pins (slowly!) as the machine foot will push them flat. However, it is generally safer and better for your machine needle to remove the pins just before the needle reaches them.
Pinning Parallel to the Edge: This method is sometimes used for holding bulkier seams or when hand-sewing.
- Align your fabric edges.
- Insert the pin parallel to the raw edge, about 1/2 inch to 1 inch away from where you will sew. The pin runs along the length of the seam line.
- This method is not good for machine sewing because you cannot sew over the pins. You must remove each pin before you reach it with the sewing machine needle.

For beginners using a sewing machine, pinning perpendicular to the edge is usually the easiest and most effective method. It helps keep the fabric flat and aligned right up to the sewing line.

Pinning Patterns to Fabric

One of the first times you’ll use sewing pins is when you are pinning patterns to fabric before cutting. This is a very important step for accurate cutting.

Prepare Your Pattern and Fabric: Make sure your pattern is pressed flat if it’s wrinkled. Lay your fabric out flat, following the pattern instructions for folding (usually selvage to selvage or on the bias).
Place Pattern Pieces: Arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric according to the layout guide provided with your pattern. Pay close attention to the grainline arrow on the pattern piece. This arrow must be placed parallel to the selvage edge (the finished edge of the fabric that doesn’t fray). Use a ruler or tape measure to check that both ends of the grainline arrow are the same distance from the selvage.
Start Pinning: Begin pinning the pattern pieces. Place pins mainly within the body of the pattern piece, not right on the cutting line.
- Use enough pins to keep the pattern piece flat and prevent it from shifting. Place pins around the edges, but also add a few in the center of larger pieces.
- For corners and points, place a pin near the point to hold it securely.
- On long straight edges, space pins a few inches apart.
- On curves, you will need more pins placed closer together to follow the curve smoothly.
Check for Smoothness: Make sure the fabric is not puckered or stretched under the pattern piece. If it is, remove the pin and try again. The pattern piece should lie smoothly on the fabric.

Pinning patterns to fabric correctly ensures that your cut pieces are the right size and shape, which is essential for your garment or project to fit together properly.

How Many Pins to Use?

There’s no magic number, but a good rule is to use enough pins to keep the fabric perfectly aligned without distorting it.

Straight Seams: Pins every 2-4 inches are usually sufficient. Closer spacing for finer or more slippery fabrics.
Curves: More pins are needed here. Pins every 1-2 inches, or even closer on tight curves, help the fabric edges match along the curve.
Long Edges (like hems): Pins every 3-5 inches might be enough.
Pinning Patterns: Enough pins to keep the pattern flat against the fabric, especially around edges and points.

Over-pinning isn’t usually harmful, but it can slow you down. Under-pinning means the fabric might shift. Find a balance that works for the fabric and task.

Dealing with Tricky Fabrics: Pinning Challenges

Some fabrics are harder to pin than others. Slippery fabrics, thick fabrics, or very fine fabrics require a little extra care and sometimes different techniques or types of sewing pins.

Pinning Slippery Fabric

Fabrics like silk, satin, rayon, and some polyesters can be very frustrating to pin because they slide around easily. Here’s how to handle them:

Use the Right Pins: Silk pins (extra fine and sharp) are best for slippery fabrics. They make small holes and glide into the fabric easily without snagging.
Use More Pins: You will need to use pins closer together than you would for cotton. Pins every 1-2 inches along the seam line help keep the fabric from shifting.
Pin Within the Seam Allowance: For very fine fabrics, try to keep pins within the seam allowance area (the fabric between your stitching line and the raw edge). This way, if the pin leaves a permanent mark, it will be hidden inside the seam.
Work on a Non-Slip Surface: Lay your fabric on a surface that has some grip. A large cutting mat or even an old cotton sheet spread out can help keep the fabric from sliding away from you as you pin.
Use Tissue Paper or Stabilizer: For extremely slippery fabrics, you can layer tissue paper underneath or even on top of the fabric before pinning and cutting. You can also use a lightweight, tear-away stabilizer. Pin through all layers (pattern, fabric, tissue/stabilizer). You sew through the paper, then tear it away after stitching.
Cut Single Layer: If possible, cut slippery fabrics in a single layer instead of on the fold. This reduces the amount of fabric you have to control at once. Remember to flip pattern pieces for the second side.

Pinning slippery fabric takes patience, but using the right pins and techniques makes a big difference in keeping things under control.

Pinning Curves

Pinning curves requires a different approach than straight lines. Whether you’re pinning a neckline, armhole, or curved seam, the goal is to ease the fabric edges together smoothly.

Clip or Notch (Sometimes): For tight curves, you might need to clip into the seam allowance of an inward curve or notch an outward curve before pinning, especially if one piece is slightly longer or needs to be eased. This allows the fabric edge to spread or gather slightly.
Place Pins Perpendicular: Pin perpendicular to the edge, just like for straight seams.
Use More Pins: You need more pins on curves than on straight lines. Place pins every 1-2 inches, or even closer, especially on tighter curves.
Ease Gently: As you pin, gently ease the fabric edges together. Don’t stretch one piece to fit the other. If the curve is significant, you might need to slightly gather the longer edge to match the shorter one, distributing the ease evenly with your pins.
Check From Both Sides: Look at the pinned curve from both sides to make sure the fabric isn’t buckling or stretching on either side.

Pinning curves well ensures a smooth, professional finish that lies flat.

Pinning Thick or Bulky Fabrics

Working with denim, canvas, fleece, or multiple layers can be tough on standard pins.

Use Stronger Pins: T-pins or quilting pins are good choices for thick fabrics because they are stronger and less likely to bend. Quilting pins are also longer, which helps hold many layers.
Pin Density: You might not need as many pins along the length, but make sure the pins you use are strong enough to go through all the layers without bending.
Consider Clips: For very thick seams or areas with lots of layers (like intersecting seams), fabric clips might work better than pins. They hold the edges together without adding bulk or being difficult to insert. We’ll talk more about clips later.

Using the right type of pin and being firm but careful when pushing them through multiple layers will make pinning thick fabrics much easier.

Pinning Specific Areas

Certain parts of a project, like seams and hems, have specific pinning needs. Let’s look at pinning seams more closely.

Pinning Seams

Pinning seams is perhaps the most frequent pinning task. The goal is to hold two or more raw edges together precisely so you can sew them with a consistent seam allowance.

Align Raw Edges: Line up the raw edges of the fabric pieces you want to join. Make sure they are perfectly even along the entire length of the seam.
Match Notches/Markings: Transfer any pattern notches or markings to your fabric. These are important points that must line up. Place pins at these notches first to anchor the fabric.
Place Pins Perpendicularly: As discussed, pinning perpendicular to the raw edge is usually best for machine sewing. Insert pins so the head is towards the outside edge and the point is towards the inside of the project.
Space Pins Evenly: Place pins along the seam every few inches, closer together on curves or for slippery fabrics.
Check Alignment: Smooth the fabric between pins and double-check that the raw edges remain aligned.
Pinning Intersecting Seams: When pinning seams that meet (like side seams and waistband seams), it’s crucial to get the intersection point right. Pin directly through the seam lines or folds you want to match on both layers. Feel the pin on the back to make sure it came out exactly where the seam line is on the lower layer. This ensures your corners and seams match up perfectly.

Pinning seams accurately is a fundamental step in garment construction and many other sewing projects.

Pinning Hems

Pinning a hem involves folding the fabric edge up one or more times and securing the fold before sewing.

Fold the Edge: Fold the raw edge of the fabric up by the desired amount, usually following pattern instructions or a measured hem allowance.
Fold Again (Optional): For a double-fold hem, fold the edge up a second time by the required amount, enclosing the raw edge.
Pin the Fold: Pin the folded hem in place.
- For a double-fold hem, place pins parallel to the folded edge, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the inner fold line you will sew along. This holds the fold flat.
- For a single-fold hem that will be finished with a serger or binding, you might just fold once and pin perpendicular to hold that single fold temporarily.
Mind Curves: If the hem is curved (like on a circle skirt), you will need to ease the fabric as you fold and pin. Clip the raw edge of an outward curve slightly before folding to help it lie flat. Use lots of pins.

Pinning hems neatly ensures an even hemline around your project.

Getting Pinning Right: Best Practices

Beyond the basic techniques, there are some overall tips that define the best way to pin fabric for sewing.

Using the Right Pin for the Fabric

We talked about types of sewing pins already, but this is worth repeating. Always choose pins that match your fabric weight and type. Fine pins for fine fabric, strong pins for strong fabric, ballpoint for knits. This simple step prevents damage and makes pinning easier.

Pinning Within the Seam Allowance

Whenever possible, place your pins within the seam allowance. This is the area between the edge of the fabric and your stitch line. If the pin leaves a slight mark, it will be hidden inside the finished seam.

Pinning Perpendicular for Machine Sewing

For most machine sewing, pinning perpendicular to the raw edge is the best method. It holds the fabric layers flat and aligned right up to the needle and allows you to remove pins easily as you sew.

Removing Pins As You Sew

While some sewers sew directly over pins (especially when pinned perpendicularly), it’s generally recommended to remove pins just before the sewing machine needle reaches them.
* Why Remove? Sewing over pins can:
* Break or dull your sewing machine needle.
* Damage your sewing machine bobbin case.
* Cause stitches to be uneven.
* Bend or break the pin itself, sending a sharp piece flying.
* How to Remove: Use your free hand to pull the pin out just a second before the fabric goes under the needle. Have a pin cushion or magnetic pin holder nearby to place the removed pins safely.

Pin Safety

Sewing pins are sharp! Always handle them with care.

Keep pins in a pin cushion, a magnetic holder, or a closed container. Do not leave them scattered on your workspace or floor.
Never put pins in your mouth.
Dispose of broken or bent pins safely. Wrap them in tape before throwing them away so they don’t poke through trash bags.
Be mindful of where you are placing pins, especially when working on garments that will be worn. Double-check that all pins are removed after sewing.

Following these best practices helps you pin effectively and safely.

Alternative Ways of Holding Fabric for Sewing

While pins are essential, they aren’t the only way of holding fabric for sewing. Sometimes, other tools might be better depending on the fabric or task. These are also methods of holding fabric for sewing.

Fabric Clips

Fabric clips (often called binding clips or Wonder Clips) are small plastic or metal clips with a flat base.

Pros:
- Great for thick fabrics where pins are hard to insert or bend.
- Excellent for materials that pins would damage, like leather, vinyl, or laminated fabrics.
- Work well for holding multiple layers or bulky seams.
- Easy to use and quick to remove.
Cons:
- Cannot be used where the fabric needs to lie perfectly flat against a surface, like when pinning a pattern to a single layer.
- Are bulkier than pins and might not be suitable for very delicate or precise work.

Fabric clips are a fantastic addition to your sewing tools and are often used alongside sewing pins.

Weights

Pattern weights are heavy objects used to hold pattern pieces onto fabric for cutting, especially for fabrics that might be damaged by pins (like delicate knits, leather, or slippery fabrics) or for quick pattern placement.

Pros:
- Don’t make holes in the fabric.
- Make it easy to adjust pattern placement.
- Good for fabrics that are difficult to pin flat.
Cons:
- Only hold the pattern piece flat; they don’t hold multiple fabric layers together for sewing seams.
- You need to use a rotary cutter when using weights; scissors don’t work well.

Weights are mainly used in the cutting stage, not for holding seams together for sewing, which is where sewing pins really shine.

Basting

Basting is temporarily joining fabric layers together with loose stitches, either by hand or machine.

Pros:
- Provides a very secure hold that won’t shift at all.
- Excellent for complex seams, gathering, setting in sleeves, or fitting garments.
- Leaves no holes in the fabric.
Cons:
- Takes much longer than pinning.
- Requires removing the basting stitches after the final seam is sewn.

Basting is a technique used when maximum control is needed, often in combination with or instead of pins for critical steps.

Most sewing projects use a combination of these methods, but sewing pins remain the most versatile and widely used tool for holding fabric for sewing.

Troubleshooting Common Pinning Issues

Even with the right pins and techniques, you might run into problems.

Fabric is Puckering Between Pins: This means you either aren’t using enough pins, or you are stretching the fabric as you pin it. Use more pins, placed closer together, and make sure the fabric is lying flat and relaxed before inserting each pin.
Pins are Bending or Hard to Push In: You are likely using the wrong type of pin for your fabric. Switch to stronger pins like T-pins or quilting pins for thick layers. Or, your pins might be dull – try new, sharp pins.
Fabric is Shifting While Sewing: Pins might be too far apart, or the fabric is very slippery. Increase the pin density. For slippery fabrics, revisit the tips for pinning slippery fabric, consider using silk pins, or try tissue paper.
Pins Are Leaving Visible Holes: The pins are too thick or dull for your fabric. Switch to finer, sharper pins (like silk pins for delicate fabrics) and try to pin within the seam allowance.

Addressing these issues helps make your pinning more effective and your sewing smoother.

Summing Up Pinning for Sewing

Mastering how to pin fabric for sewing is a fundamental skill that will greatly improve your sewing projects. By choosing the correct types of sewing pins for your fabric, learning effective fabric pinning techniques, and applying best practices like pinning perpendicular and removing pins carefully, you set yourself up for success. Whether you are pinning patterns to fabric for cutting, joining straight seams, tackling pinning curves, or managing tricky slippery fabric, good pinning is your first step towards straight stitches and a professional finish. Don’t underestimate the power of this simple tool! Taking the time to pin right is an investment in the quality of your finished work.

Frequently Asked Questions About Pinning Fabric

Q: How far apart should sewing pins be?
A: For straight seams on average fabrics, pins every 2-4 inches are usually enough. For curves or slippery fabrics, place them closer together, perhaps every 1-2 inches. Pinning patterns to fabric requires enough pins to keep the pattern flat, especially around edges and points.

Q: Can I sew over sewing pins with my machine?
A: It is generally safer to remove pins just before your sewing machine needle reaches them. While you can sometimes sew over perpendicularly placed pins slowly, doing so increases the risk of breaking or dulling your needle or damaging your machine.

Q: What are the best sewing pins for knit fabrics?
A: Ballpoint pins are the best type of sewing pins for knit fabrics. They have a rounded tip that slides between the fabric loops instead of piercing them, which helps prevent runs or damage to the knit.

Q: My pins are leaving holes in my fabric. What am I doing wrong?
A: The pins might be too thick or dull for the fabric. Try using finer, sharper pins, such as silk pins for delicate fabrics. Also, try to pin only within the seam allowance where any small holes won’t show in the finished project.

Q: When should I use fabric clips instead of pins?
A: Use fabric clips for fabrics that pins might damage (like leather, vinyl, laminated fabrics) or for very thick or bulky seams where pins are difficult to use or bend. They are also great for holding binding in place.

Q: How do I pin slippery fabric so it doesn’t shift?
A: Use extra fine, sharp pins (silk pins). Place pins closer together than usual. Work on a surface that has some grip. Consider using tissue paper under the fabric as you pin and sew.

Q: What is the difference between pinning perpendicular and parallel?
A: Pinning perpendicular means inserting the pin straight into the fabric at a 90-degree angle to the edge. Pinning parallel means inserting the pin so it lies flat along the edge of the fabric. Perpendicular pinning is better for machine sewing as you can remove pins just before the needle.

Q: What is the best way to pin fabric for sewing curves?
A: Use more pins than you would for a straight line, placing them closer together (every 1-2 inches). Pin perpendicular to the edge. Gently ease the fabric layers together as you pin, being careful not to stretch.