Making ruffles on a sewing machine is a fun way to add flair to your projects! It lets you gather fabric tightly or loosely along a seam, creating a wavy or gathered effect. You can do this in a few ways: using special sewing machine feet, adjusting your basic machine settings, or even using elastic thread for a different look. This guide will show you simple steps for making ruffles, perfect for dresses, skirts, home decor, and more.
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What Are Ruffles and Gathers?
Ruffles and gathers are basically the same idea in sewing. They mean taking a longer piece of fabric and making it fit a shorter space. This creates fullness and waves. Ruffles are often used on edges, while gathers might be used within a seam, like at a waistline. But the technique for gathering fabric with sewing machine is how you make them both.
Why Make Ruffles with a Machine?
Doing it by hand takes a long time. A sewing machine makes it fast and even. You get nice, consistent gathers that look professional. Whether you are making a big ruffled skirt or just adding a small ruffle to a pillow, the machine is your best friend.
Getting Ready to Make Ruffles
Before you start sewing, you need a few things.
Tools You Need
- Your sewing machine
- Fabric you want to ruffle
- Thread that matches your fabric
- Scissors
- Pins or clips
- An iron and ironing board
Optional Tools
- A sewing machine gathering foot
- A ruffler foot attachment
- Elastic thread
Simple Ways to Gather Fabric
You don’t always need special tools to gather fabric. Your regular sewing machine can do it. This is a great way for beginners to learn how to sew gathered fabric.
Method 1: The Basic Gathering Stitch (The Two-Line Method)
This is the most common way to sewing gathers without a foot. It uses two lines of long stitches.
H4 Setting Up Your Machine for Basic Gathers
Set your stitch length to the longest setting. This is often ‘4’ or ‘5’ on your machine dial. This long stitch is your gathering stitch length. Do not backstitch at the start or end of these stitches. You need to be able to pull the threads later.
H4 Stitching the Gathering Lines
- Sew one line of stitches about a quarter inch (1/4″) away from the raw edge of your fabric.
- Sew a second line of stitches about an eighth inch (1/8″) away from the first line. It should be between the first line and the raw edge.
- Leave long thread tails (about 4-6 inches) at both ends of your fabric. Do not cut them close to the fabric.
H4 Pulling the Threads to Gather
- Go to one end of your fabric.
- Find the two bobbin threads. These are the threads on the underside of your fabric.
- Gently pull the two bobbin threads at the same time. The fabric will start to scrunch up along the stitches.
- Keep pulling the threads while sliding the fabric along the stitches. This makes the gathers.
- Distribute the gathers evenly along the required length. For example, if you need to attach a 60-inch ruffle to a 30-inch waistband, you will gather the 60-inch piece until it is 30 inches long, with the gathers spread out nicely.
- Once you have the right length and the gathers look good, tie off the thread tails at both ends. You can tie the bobbin threads together, or tie the bobbin threads to the top threads. This stops the gathers from coming undone.
H4 Tips for Basic Gathering
- Using two lines of stitches gives you more control. If one thread breaks, you have the other one.
- Pulling the bobbin threads is easier than pulling the top threads.
- Be gentle when pulling, especially on delicate fabrics. Threads can break.
- Practice on a scrap piece first. See how the fabric gathers.
- Mark your fabric where the gathers need to start and end. Also, mark the points on the piece you are attaching the ruffle to (like the waistband). This helps you spread the gathers evenly. Divide both pieces into quarters or eighths and match the marks.
Adjusting Tension for Gathers
Sometimes, just changing your stitch length is not enough. Adjusting tension for gathers can help, especially if you only want to sew one line of stitches or if your fabric is thick.
H5 How Tension Affects Gathers
Higher upper thread tension pulls the top thread tighter. This can make the bobbin thread loop more on the fabric underside. If you use a very long stitch and high upper tension, the machine might gather the fabric slightly as it sews, without you having to pull threads later.
H5 Experimenting with Tension
- Set your stitch length to the longest setting.
- Increase your upper tension setting. Start by increasing it by 1 or 2 numbers.
- Sew a line of stitches on a fabric scrap.
- See if the fabric gathers on its own as you sew. If it does not, increase the tension more.
- Be careful not to increase the tension too much. It can cause stitches to break or look bad.
- This method is less controllable than the two-line method. The amount of gathering depends a lot on your machine and fabric.
Most people find the two-line method with normal tension and long stitches the most reliable way to sewing gathers without a foot.
Using Special Sewing Machine Feet for Gathers
There are special feet that make gathering even faster or create different ruffle effects.
Method 2: Using a Gathering Foot
A sewing machine gathering foot is a simple foot with a raised front. As the fabric feeds under the foot, the raised part holds it back just a little. The machine’s feed dogs push the fabric forward, causing it to scrunch up.
H4 How to Use a Gathering Foot
- Attach the gathering foot to your sewing machine.
- Choose a longer stitch length. A normal stitch length might not gather much. A longer stitch allows the feed dogs to push more fabric under the foot before the needle goes down again.
- Adjust your upper thread tension. Often, increasing the tension helps the foot gather more. Higher tension makes the top thread pull harder, helping the fabric bunch up. Experiment to find the right setting for your fabric and desired gather amount.
- Place your fabric under the foot.
- Start sewing. The foot will gather the fabric as you sew.
H4 Controlling the Amount of Gather with a Gathering Foot
- Stitch Length: A longer stitch gathers more.
- Upper Tension: Higher tension usually gathers more.
- Fabric Type: Thicker or stiffer fabrics gather less than lightweight or soft fabrics.
H4 Attaching While Gathering (Optional)
Some gathering feet let you attach the gathered fabric to another piece of fabric at the same time. You place the fabric to be gathered under the foot and the fabric you are attaching it to in the groove on top of the foot. The top fabric stays flat while the bottom fabric gathers and gets sewn to it. This is a quick way of attaching gathered fabric.
Method 3: Using a Ruffler Foot
A ruffler foot attachment is a more complex foot. It actually pleats the fabric at set intervals as you sew. This creates very regular, crisp gathers or pleats. It looks a bit like a robot or bug!
H4 Parts of a Ruffler Foot
A ruffler foot usually has several settings:
- Stitch depth setting: Controls how much fabric is pushed forward for each gather/pleat.
- Interval setting: Controls how often a gather/pleat is made (e.g., every stitch, every 6 stitches, every 12 stitches, or just flat).
- Needle position: Make sure your machine’s needle is in the center position.
H4 How to Use a Ruffler Foot
- Attach the ruffler foot to your machine. It might be a bit tricky; follow your machine’s or the foot’s instructions. Make sure the arm of the ruffler is sitting over the needle clamp screw.
- Set the interval setting on the ruffler foot (e.g., * or 1 for gathers every stitch, 6 for every 6 stitches, 12 for every 12 stitches, 0 for flat sewing).
- Set the stitch depth/gather depth setting. This controls how deep the gather/pleat is.
- Set your machine’s stitch length. Often, a medium stitch length works well with a ruffler, but experiment.
- Set your machine’s upper tension to normal. The ruffler mechanism creates the gather, not the tension.
- Feed your fabric through the ruffler foot, making sure the edge is under the gathering blade.
- Start sewing slowly. The ruffler foot will automatically gather or pleat the fabric as you sew.
H4 Controlling the Amount of Gather/Pleat with a Ruffler Foot
- Interval Setting: Controls how frequently gathers/pleats are made. More frequent settings create denser ruffles.
- Stitch Depth Setting (on the foot): Controls how much fabric is used in each gather/pleat. A higher number means deeper gathers/pleats.
- Machine Stitch Length: A longer stitch length can sometimes affect the look, but the foot’s settings are the main control.
H4 Attaching While Ruffling (Optional)
Like the gathering foot, many ruffler feet allow you to attach the ruffled fabric to a flat piece at the same time. The fabric to be ruffled goes under the gathering blade, and the flat fabric goes through a slot on top of the foot. This makes attaching gathered fabric very fast.
Method 4: Using Elastic Thread for Gathering
This method creates gathers that are stretchy. It’s perfect for waistbands or cuffs. This is also a way of gathering fabric with sewing machine.
H4 How to Use Elastic Thread
- You will use regular thread in the needle.
- Wind the elastic thread onto your bobbin by hand. Do not stretch the elastic thread as you wind it. Just wind it smoothly.
- Put the bobbin case with the elastic thread into your machine.
- Use regular thread in your machine’s needle.
- Set your stitch length to a normal setting (like 2.5 or 3).
- Increase your machine’s upper thread tension slightly. This helps the needle thread pull the elastic thread up and create gathers.
- Sew lines of stitches on the fabric where you want the gathers. Sew multiple parallel lines for a wider gathered area.
- After sewing, hold the fabric ends and gently pull the fabric to encourage the gathers to shrink up. You can also use steam from your iron (without touching the fabric) to help the elastic contract.
H4 Tips for Using Elastic Thread
- Practice on a scrap first. Get the right tension and stitch length.
- Make sure the elastic thread feeds smoothly from the bobbin case. It might need a little help.
- Sew multiple lines close together for a denser gather.
- This method works best on lightweight to mediumweight fabrics.
Comparing Gathering Methods
Each method has pros and cons.
| Method | Ease of Use | Speed | Consistency of Gathers | Special Tools Needed? | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Basic Gathering Stitch | Easy | Medium | Good (with practice) | No | Beginners, small projects, any fabric type |
| Sewing Machine Gathering Foot | Easy (once attached) | Fast | Variable (depends on settings/fabric) | Yes (gathering foot) | Quick gathering, moderate gather density |
| Ruffler Foot Attachment | Medium (to attach/set up) | Very Fast | Very Good (consistent pleats/gathers) | Yes (ruffler foot) | Dense, even ruffles/pleats, production work |
| Using Elastic Thread | Medium (winding bobbin) | Fast | Good | Yes (elastic thread) | Stretchy gathers, waistbands, cuffs |
Attaching Your Gathered Fabric
Once you have gathered your fabric to the correct length, you need to attach it to another piece. This process is called attaching gathered fabric.
H4 Steps for Attaching Gathers
- Prepare your gathered piece. Make sure the gathers are spread evenly. If you used the two-line method, secure the threads at both ends by tying them off.
- Take the piece you are attaching the ruffle to (e.g., a bodice or waistband). Mark the center and quarter points on both the gathered piece and the flat piece. Match these marks. This helps you distribute the gathers evenly.
- Place the gathered piece and the flat piece right sides together. Pin them together, matching the raw edges. Place pins perpendicular to the edge so you can sew over them carefully (or remove them as you sew). Pin generously to hold the gathers in place.
- Using your regular sewing machine foot (not the gathering or ruffler foot), sew along the seam line. If you used the two-line gathering method, sew between your two lines of gathering stitches. This hides the gathering stitches in the seam.
- Sew slowly and carefully, making sure the gathers stay in place and are not getting caught unevenly. Smooth the fabric in front of the foot as you sew.
- After sewing the seam, remove the gathering stitches if you used the two-line method. Pull them out gently with a seam ripper. The single line of stitching from the attachment seam is enough to hold the fabric. If you used a gathering or ruffler foot for attachment, you only have one line of stitches.
- Finish the seam edge if needed (serge, zigzag, etc.).
- Press the seam. Usually, you press the seam allowance towards the flat fabric piece.
Troubleshooting Common Gathering Issues
- Threads breaking when pulling: This happens if you pull too hard, or if your stitches are too tight, or if the thread is weak. Use stronger thread, lengthen your stitch even more, or pull more gently.
- Gathers are uneven: Make sure you mark your fabric and match the marks when pinning. Pin generously. Pull threads from both ends towards the middle if needed.
- Fabric won’t gather with a foot: Check your stitch length and tension. Make sure the foot is installed correctly. Some heavy fabrics just don’t gather much with a simple gathering foot; you might need the ruffler foot or the two-line method.
- Ruffler foot isn’t gathering: Check that the foot is installed correctly and the arm is over the needle clamp. Check the interval and depth settings on the foot. Make sure your needle is centered.
Project Idea: Making Gathered Skirt
A simple gathered skirt is a classic project that uses these techniques. It’s a great way of making gathered skirt.
H4 Steps for a Simple Gathered Skirt
- Cut your fabric: You need a waistband piece (or elastic) and a large rectangle for the skirt body. The width of the skirt rectangle will be 1.5 to 3 times the width of your waistband (or hip measurement for elastic). The length is how long you want the skirt plus seam allowances and hem allowance.
- Prepare the skirt rectangle: Sew the two short ends of the large rectangle together to form a tube. Finish this seam edge.
- Prepare the waistband: If using a fabric waistband, iron interfacing onto it. Sew the waistband ends together to form a loop. Press the waistband in half lengthwise.
- Gather the skirt top edge: Use one of the methods for gathering fabric with sewing machine (basic stitch, gathering foot, or ruffler). Gather the top raw edge of the skirt tube until it is the same length as your waistband loop (or your hip measurement if using elastic directly). Distribute the gathers evenly.
- Attach the waistband:
- Fabric waistband: Pin the gathered top edge of the skirt to one long raw edge of the folded waistband loop, right sides together. Match the seam of the skirt tube to a side seam mark on the waistband, and match quarter points. Sew the seam. Press the seam allowance up into the waistband. Fold the remaining edge of the waistband to the inside of the skirt, covering the raw seam edge. Stitch the waistband down from the right side, or stitch in the ditch (sew exactly in the seam line between the waistband and skirt from the right side).
- Elastic waistband: You might create a casing for the elastic. Fold the top edge of the skirt tube over twice to make a channel. Sew the casing, leaving a small opening. Thread elastic through the casing. Sew the elastic ends together. Sew the opening closed. Or, you can gather the skirt to your hip measurement and sew the top raw edge directly to a loop of elastic (often using a serger or zigzag stitch).
- Hem the skirt: Try on the skirt and decide on the length. Turn up the raw bottom edge twice and stitch to make the hem.
- Press: Give the skirt a good press to finish.
This simple making gathered skirt project shows how vital gathering is in dressmaking.
Further Tips for Great Ruffles
- Fabric Choice: Lightweight fabrics like cotton lawn, voile, or chiffon gather easily and make soft, flowy ruffles. Medium weight cottons also work well. Heavy fabrics like denim or canvas are harder to gather and might require a ruffler foot or significant effort with the basic method.
- Stitch Length: Always use a long stitch for basic gathering stitches. For gathering or ruffler feet, check your instructions and experiment, but longer is often better for more gather.
- Tension: Adjusting tension can help with basic gathering and using a gathering foot. Higher upper tension pulls more thread to the bobbin side, helping the fabric scrunch.
- Practice: Making gathers takes a little practice to get them even. Don’t be afraid to sew test pieces.
- Measuring: Always measure the piece you are attaching the ruffle to. Gather the longer fabric piece to match that measurement exactly, spreading the gathers evenly.
- Finishing Edges: If your ruffle edge is raw, you might want to hem it before gathering. A rolled hem is good for lightweight fabrics. For quick ruffles, you can use a serger to finish the edge before or after gathering.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
H4 Can I gather really thick fabric?
Yes, but it’s harder. Heavy fabrics like denim or canvas gather much less than light ones. The two-line method with strong thread is possible, but a ruffler foot attachment is often the best tool for getting noticeable gathers or pleats on heavier fabrics.
H4 How do I know how much fabric I need for a ruffle?
A common rule is to use fabric that is 1.5 to 3 times the finished length you need. For example, if you need a ruffle that is 20 inches long when finished, you would start with a strip of fabric between 30 inches (20 x 1.5) and 60 inches (20 x 3) wide. More width means denser ruffles. For very full ruffles, you might even use 4 times the finished length.
H4 My gathering thread keeps breaking. What am I doing wrong?
You might be pulling too hard, or the stitch length is not long enough, or your thread is too weak for the fabric. Try a longer gathering stitch length, pull more gently, and use stronger thread. Using two lines of stitches helps because if one breaks, you still have the other.
H4 Is a ruffler foot worth buying?
If you plan to make a lot of ruffles or want very even pleats or dense gathers, a ruffler foot attachment can save a lot of time and effort. It is especially good for repeating ruffles like on a petticoat or a large making gathered skirt project. For occasional, simple gathers, the basic two-line method is usually enough.
H4 What is the difference between a gathering foot and a ruffler foot?
A sewing machine gathering foot is simple; it just holds the fabric back a little while the machine stitches, letting the feed dogs do most of the gathering. It creates soft, uneven gathers. A ruffler foot attachment is mechanical; it actively pushes and folds the fabric into pleats or very regular gathers as you sew. It gives more controlled and often denser results.
H4 Do I need to change my bobbin tension when using elastic thread?
No, you usually don’t need to change the bobbin tension. The key is winding the elastic thread onto the bobbin by hand without stretching it. Any tension comes from the upper thread pulling the elastic thread loops tight. You adjust the upper tension slightly to get the desired effect.
Conclusion
You can make beautiful ruffles and gathers on your sewing machine using different methods. The basic two-line gathering stitch is simple and works for most projects. Special feet like the sewing machine gathering foot or ruffler foot attachment can make the job faster and create different looks. Using elastic thread for gathering gives you stretchy results. By learning how to sew gathered fabric, adjusting tension for gathers, choosing the right gathering stitch length, and mastering attaching gathered fabric, you can add lovely details to all sorts of sewing projects, including fun items like a making gathered skirt. Practice each method to find your favorite way to create that perfect ruffle!