Simple Guide: How To Hem A Skirt With Sewing Machine

How To Hem A Skirt With Sewing Machine
Image Source: i.ytimg.com

Simple Guide: How To Hem A Skirt With Sewing Machine

Can I hem a skirt with a sewing machine? Absolutely! Sewing a skirt hem with a sewing machine is a fundamental skill for any sewer, and with this guide, you’ll be adjusting skirt length and finishing skirt edges like a pro. Whether you’re a beginner or looking to refine your skirt hemming techniques, this detailed walkthrough covers everything you need to know for machine sewing a skirt hem, even for hemming a dress skirt.

What You’ll Need:

Your Skirt: The star of the show!
Sewing Machine: Any functional sewing machine is suitable for skirts. A good sewing machine for skirts will have adjustable stitch length and width.
Thread: Matching your skirt fabric in color and weight.
Sewing Machine Needles: The correct needle type for your fabric is crucial (e.g., universal, ballpoint for knits, or sharp for wovens).
Fabric Scissors: For a clean cut.
Pins: To hold the hem in place.
Measuring Tape: Essential for accurate length adjustment.
Fabric Marker or Chalk: To mark your hemline.
Iron and Ironing Board: For pressing seams and hems.
Seam Ripper: For any mistakes (we all make them!).
Optional: Hem tape or fusible interfacing for a crisp finish.

Step 1: Preparing Your Skirt for Hemming

Before you start sewing a skirt hem, careful preparation makes all the difference.

Deciding on the Hem Length

This is the first and most important step. Try on your skirt and decide exactly how long you want it to be.

Wear the Shoes: Always wear the shoes you plan to wear with the skirt. This ensures the hem length looks perfect with your intended footwear.
Pinning the Hem: Stand in front of a mirror. Have a friend help you pin the hem to your desired length. Work your way around the skirt, pinning evenly.
Marking the Hemline: Once you’re happy with the pinned length, use your fabric marker or chalk to draw a line along the bottom edge of the pinned hem. This is your new hemline.

Calculating Hem Allowance

Now, you need to add extra fabric for the hem itself. This is called the hem allowance.

Standard Hem Allowance: A common hem allowance for skirts is 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm). For thinner fabrics or delicate materials, a smaller allowance might be better. For thicker fabrics, you might want a wider allowance, but be mindful of bulk.
Measure and Mark: Measure from your marked hemline downwards. Mark your cutting line. For example, if your hem allowance is 1.5 inches, measure 1.5 inches down from your hemline and draw a new line. This is where you will cut.

Cutting the Excess Fabric

Once your cutting line is marked, it’s time to trim.

Use Sharp Scissors: Ensure your fabric scissors are sharp for a clean cut.
Cut Accurately: Follow your marked cutting line precisely. A neat cut makes the sewing process much smoother.

Step 2: Creating the Fold for a Neat Finish

This step is crucial for finishing skirt edges cleanly.

The Double Fold Method (Most Common)

This method creates a professional-looking hem by folding the fabric twice.

First Fold: Take the raw edge of the fabric and fold it up to your marked hemline. Press this fold firmly with your iron. This hides the raw edge.
Second Fold: Now, fold the fabric up again, so the folded edge meets the original marked hemline (or slightly overlaps it, depending on your hem allowance). Press this second fold again. The width of this second fold should be consistent all around the skirt.

Pressing is Key

Good pressing makes sewing much easier and results in a crisper, more professional finish.

Work in Sections: Press the hem in manageable sections.
Steam and Press: Use steam if your fabric allows, but always test on a scrap first. Press firmly.

Securing the Fold

Before you machine sew, you need to keep the hem in place.

Pinning: Pin the hem fold securely. Place pins perpendicular to the folded edge, about every 2-3 inches.
Basting (Optional): For very slippery fabrics or if you want extra security, you can hand-baste the hem in place before pinning.

Step 3: Machine Sewing the Hem

Now it’s time for machine sewing a skirt hem! This is where your sewing machine for skirts comes into play.

Choosing the Right Stitch

Straight Stitch: This is the most common and versatile stitch for hemming.
Stitch Length: A stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 mm is usually good for most fabrics. Shorter stitches can look neater on finer fabrics, while slightly longer stitches might be better for heavier materials.
Needle and Thread: Make sure you have the correct needle for your fabric type and that your thread is strong enough.

Setting Up Your Sewing Machine

Thread the Machine: Ensure your sewing machine is correctly threaded, both the upper thread and the bobbin.
Test Stitch: Always test your stitch on a scrap piece of your fabric (with the hem folded and pressed) to ensure tension and appearance are correct.
Foot Choice: Use your standard presser foot. For very thick hems, you might consider a walking foot or even a blind hem foot if you’re aiming for an invisible hem.

Sewing the Hemline

This is the core of sewing a skirt hem.

Starting: Position the skirt under the presser foot with the needle lowered into the fabric at the beginning of the hem. Lift the presser foot, place the fabric, then lower the presser foot.
Backstitching: Begin sewing and backstitch a few stitches at the start to secure the thread.
Sewing Straight: Guide the fabric smoothly, keeping the folded edge aligned with the edge of your presser foot or a predetermined seam guide. The goal is to sew a straight line along the top edge of your double-folded hem.
Maintaining Consistency: Try to keep your stitching line consistent. This is where your earlier pressing and pinning pay off.
Pivot and Turn: When you reach a seam or a point where you need to turn, stop with the needle down in the fabric. Lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing.
Finishing: As you reach the end of the hem, backstitch again to secure the stitches.
Trimming Threads: Cut the excess threads close to the fabric.

Finishing the Beginning and End

When you complete your circle, you need to join the start and end of your stitching neatly.

Overlap and Backstitch: Sew a few stitches past where you started, then backstitch to secure.
Tying Off Threads: You can tie off the beginning and ending threads manually for extra security, especially on the inside.

Step 4: Final Touches and Pressing

This is where your skirt alteration sewing really shines.

Trimming Excess Threads

Go back and meticulously trim any stray threads from the outside and inside of the skirt.

Final Pressing

This is a critical step for a polished look.

Press from the Inside: Start by pressing the hem allowance upward from the wrong side of the skirt. This sets the stitching line.
Press from the Outside: Then, gently press the finished hem from the right side of the skirt. Be careful not to stretch the fabric. Use a pressing cloth for delicate fabrics.
Crease vs. Turn: Depending on the fabric and desired look, you can press the hem to one side (creating a slight crease at the top) or press it to lie flat.

Alternative Skirt Hemming Techniques

While the double fold is standard, other skirt hemming techniques offer different looks and benefits.

The Blind Hem

This is a popular method for a nearly invisible hem, perfect for hemming a dress skirt or finer garments.

Preparation: Prepare the hem the same way, but your second fold will be slightly different. Instead of folding the raw edge up to meet the folded edge, you’ll fold it to create a small “lip” of fabric that catches the blind hem stitch.
Blind Hem Foot: A blind hem foot on your sewing machine is highly recommended for this technique. It guides the fabric so the stitch catches only a few threads of the main fabric.
Stitching: Set your machine to the blind hem stitch (often looks like a small zigzag). Guide the fabric so the needle swings over the folded edge, catching just a few threads. When opened, the stitch should be almost invisible from the right side.

Rolled Hem

This technique creates a very narrow, delicate hem, often used for lightweight and sheer fabrics.

Machine Rolled Hem Foot: This requires a special presser foot that guides the fabric into a small roll as you sew.
Sewing: Feed the fabric edge into the slot of the rolled hem foot. The foot automatically rolls the edge, and the machine sews over it.

Using Hem Tape or Fusible Interfacing

For a super crisp and stable hem, especially on knits or fabrics that fray easily.

Application: Apply the hem tape or fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, along the raw edge or the first fold, according to the product’s instructions.
Pressing: Press firmly to secure the tape.
Proceed with Hemming: You can then proceed with your chosen hemming method, like the double fold, or sometimes the tape itself is enough to hold the hem in place if it’s strong enough. This can simplify sewing a skirt hem.

Troubleshooting Common Hemming Issues

Even with practice, you might encounter a few snags. Here’s how to tackle them.

Wavy Hem

This often happens when the fabric stretches during sewing, especially with knits.

Prevention: Use the correct needle for knits (ballpoint or stretch needle), avoid pulling or stretching the fabric as you sew, and consider using a walking foot or a stretch stitch.
Fix: If it’s already wavy, you can try to gently press it with steam. If it’s severe, you might need to unpick the stitches and re-sew, being more mindful of tension.

Skipped Stitches

This means the needle isn’t catching the bobbin thread correctly.

Causes: Bent or dull needle, incorrect needle for the fabric, improperly threaded machine, or lint in the bobbin area.
Fix: Change your needle, re-thread the machine, and clean out any lint.

Thread Breaking

Can be due to incorrect tension, a sharp burr on the needle plate, or thread that’s too weak.

Fix: Adjust tension, check for burrs, and use a good quality thread.

Uneven Stitching

This is usually a tension or fabric feeding issue.

Fix: Test your tension on a scrap. Ensure your feed dogs are engaged.

Choosing the Right Sewing Machine for Skirts

While most sewing machines can handle a skirt hem, some features make the process easier, especially for various fabrics.

Feature	Benefit for Skirt Hemming	Considerations
Adjustable Tension	Crucial for preventing puckering or loose stitches.	Essential on any machine.
Multiple Stitch Types	Straight, zigzag, blind hem stitches broaden possibilities.	Blind hem stitch is very useful for professional finishes.
Walking Foot	Excellent for even fabric feeding, especially knits.	Often an optional accessory.
Free Arm	Makes hemming cylindrical items (like skirts) easier.	Most modern machines have this.
Needle Up/Down	Allows you to stop with the needle in the fabric for pivoting.	Very convenient feature.
Adjustable Presser Foot Pressure	Helps prevent stretching or crushing delicate fabrics.	Not all basic machines have this, but it’s helpful for various fabric weights.

Skirt Alteration Sewing: Adjusting Skirt Length

Hemming is a primary aspect of skirt alteration sewing. You might also need to adjust the waistband or take in seams, but the hem is where most length adjustments happen. Remember that adjusting skirt length involves carefully measuring and re-hemming to the new desired length. Always cut the least amount possible from the original hem to retain the original finish if possible.

Beginner Skirt Hemming Tips

For those new to sewing a skirt hem, focus on these points:

Practice on Scraps: Before you touch your skirt, practice sewing a hem on similar fabric scraps.
Press Every Fold: Don’t skip the pressing steps. It makes a huge difference.
Go Slow: Especially when you’re starting, take your time to guide the fabric evenly.
Don’t Be Afraid to Unpick: A seam ripper is your friend! If a stitch is off, unpick it and try again. It’s better than a messy finish.
Start with Easy Fabrics: Cotton and linen are great for beginners. Avoid very slippery or stretchy fabrics until you have more confidence.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How much fabric should I leave for a hem?
A: A common hem allowance is 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm). This can vary based on fabric weight and desired look.
Q: What stitch length should I use for hemming?
A: A stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 mm is generally suitable for most fabrics. Test on a scrap.
Q: My hem looks wavy. What did I do wrong?
A: Wavy hems often result from stretching the fabric as you sew. Use the right needle, avoid pulling, and consider a walking foot for knits.
Q: Can I hem a stretchy skirt without a serger?
A: Yes! Use a stretch needle, a stitch like a narrow zigzag or a twin needle, and avoid stretching the fabric as you sew.
Q: What is a blind hem?
A: A blind hem is a stitch that is almost invisible from the outside of the garment, achieved by catching only a few threads of the main fabric. It’s ideal for a professional finish.

Sewing a skirt hem is a rewarding skill. With practice, you’ll find yourself adjusting skirt length and finishing skirt edges with confidence, adding a professional touch to your sewing projects. Happy sewing!