Easy How To Blind Stitch On A Sewing Machine Guide

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Easy How To Blind Stitch On A Sewing Machine Guide

Learning how to sew an invisible hem using your sewing machine is a great skill. It lets you finish edges neatly on many clothes and home projects. A blind stitch helps make the thread hard to see on the outside of the fabric. You can sewing a blind hem easily once you know the steps. This blind stitch tutorial sewing machine will show you how. We will cover the special foot you need, the right sewing machine settings for blind stitch, and how to get a nearly invisible machine hemming result. You will also learn about adjusting sewing machine tension for blind hem.

Grasping the Blind Stitch

What is a blind stitch? It is a sewing machine stitch used for hemming. Hemming means folding and sewing the raw edge of fabric so it looks clean. The special blind stitch hides most of the thread inside the fold. This makes the stitch hard to see from the front of your project.

Why use a blind stitch? It gives a clean, professional finish. It is great for hemming skirts, pants, curtains, and sleeves. If you want the sewing to show as little as possible, the blind stitch is a good choice.

Seeing How the Blind Stitch Works

The blind stitch is special. Your sewing machine makes a stitch pattern. Most of the stitches run within the folded edge of the fabric. Only a tiny bit of the stitch catches the main fabric.

Think of it like this:
* The needle goes into the fold several times, making small, close stitches inside.
* Then, the needle swings to the side and just barely catches a tiny bit of the main fabric fold.
* It swings back into the fold and makes more stitches inside.

When you open the hem flat, you mostly see the stitches hidden inside the fold. The few stitches that caught the main fabric are small and spaced out. If your thread color is close to your fabric color, these small stitches are hard to see. This is how you get nearly invisible machine hemming.

Getting Your Tools and Supplies Ready

Before you start hemming fabric with sewing machine using a blind stitch, gather what you need. Having everything ready makes the job easier.

Here is a list of what you will likely need:

• Your sewing machine
• The special blind hem foot for your machine
• Thread that matches your fabric color very closely (or clear thread)
• The fabric you want to hem
• Sharp sewing scissors
• Tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker
• A ruler or measuring tape
• Straight pins
• An iron and ironing board

Using the correct tools is important. The blind hem foot is key for this stitch. It helps guide the fabric correctly.

The Star Player: The Blind Hem Foot

Most modern sewing machines come with a variety of presser feet. One of the most helpful feet for hemming is the blind hem foot. If your machine did not come with one, you can usually buy one separately. Make sure it is the right foot for your specific make and model of sewing machine.

What does a blind hem foot look like?
It often has a metal guide or ridge running down the middle or slightly to one side. It also has cutouts or grooves underneath. These parts help the fabric fold and feed correctly while sewing the blind stitch.

How the foot helps:
* The guide helps you keep the fabric edge straight.
* The grooves underneath allow the stitches to form smoothly over the fabric layers.
* It positions the fabric so the needle catches just the right amount of the main fabric.

Using a blind hem presser foot properly is a big part of getting a good blind hem. The guide on the foot is the most important part. You will line up a fold of your fabric against this guide. This makes sure the needle’s side swing always catches the edge of the main fabric fold at the right spot.

Picking the Right Needle and Thread

For a good blind stitch, the right needle and thread matter.

Thread:
* Choose a thread color that matches your fabric color as closely as possible. This makes the stitches less visible.
* You can also use clear thread (sometimes called invisible thread). Be careful with clear thread, as it can be tricky to work with. It can sometimes look shiny or plastic-like. Also, tension can be harder to get right with clear thread.
* Use good quality thread. Cheap thread can break easily, especially at higher speeds.

Needle:
* Use a sharp, universal needle that is the right size for your fabric.
* For light to medium fabrics (like cotton, linen, light knits), a size 70/10 or 80/12 needle is usually good.
* For slightly heavier fabrics, you might need a size 90/14.
* If you are sewing on a knit fabric, a stretch needle or ballpoint needle might work better. This helps prevent skipped stitches and holes.

Getting Your Fabric Ready

Good preparation makes a good hem. This is true for a blind hem too.

• Finish the raw edge: Before folding, it is a good idea to finish the raw edge of your fabric. This stops it from fraying inside the hem. You can use a serger if you have one, or a zig-zag stitch or other edge finishing stitch on your sewing machine.
• Press the hem: Ironing your hem folds is very important. Pressing makes crisp folds. This helps guide the fabric straight when you are sewing. It also makes it easier to position the fabric correctly under the blind hem foot.

Marking the Hem

You need to know where to fold and sew.

1. Decide the hem depth: How wide do you want the finished hem to be? This is your hem depth. For example, a 1-inch hem depth.
2. Add seam allowance: You need extra fabric to make the folds. The amount you add depends on your desired hem depth. A common way for a blind hem is to fold the raw edge up by 1/4 inch first, then fold up again by the hem depth plus that first fold.
   • Example for a 1-inch hem:
     • Mark a line 1 and 1/4 inches up from the raw edge. This is your first fold line.
     • Mark another line 1/4 inch down from the first line (or 1 inch up from the first line). This is your final hemline.
3. Mark clearly: Use tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker to mark these lines on the wrong side of the fabric.

Folding the Fabric for the Blind Stitch

This step is crucial for the blind stitch to work. You will make two folds, then a third fold back on itself.

1. First Fold: Fold the raw edge up to the first marked line (the 1/4 inch line in our example). Press this fold well with your iron. This hides the raw edge inside the hem.
2. Second Fold: Fold the fabric up again. This time, fold along the second marked line (the 1-inch line in our example). This creates the full hem. Press this fold well. At this point, your hem is folded up twice towards the wrong side of the fabric.
3. Third Fold (the special blind stitch fold): Now, fold the main fabric back on itself, away from the hem. Do this so the edge of the hem you just made sticks out to the left. The folded edge of the hem should line up with the fold you are making now. The very edge of the hem will be what you guide along the blind hem foot. You will be sewing on the unfolded part of the hem. This third fold is what makes the stitch nearly invisible. You are sewing through the single layer of the main fabric (a tiny bite) and the double layer of the hem fold.

Let’s simplify the folding again:
* Fold raw edge up 1/4 inch, press.
* Fold up again by the hem depth (e.g., 1 inch), press. Now you have a double-folded hem.
* Fold the fabric back on itself so the finished edge of the double-folded hem sticks out. This creates a “shelf” or edge that you will guide against the blind hem foot. Pin this fold in place.

This special third fold is the key. When you sew the blind stitch, the needle will make stitches mostly in the double-folded hem. But every few stitches, it will swing over and just catch that tiny bit of the main fabric fold you created.

Setting Up Your Sewing Machine

Now you need to tell your machine what stitch to sew. This is about sewing machine settings for blind stitch.

1. Attach the Blind Hem Foot: Turn off or unplug your machine for safety. Remove the regular presser foot. Attach the blind hem foot. It usually snaps or screws into place.
2. Select the Blind Hem Stitch: Look at the stitch options on your machine. There will be a symbol for the blind hem stitch. It usually looks like a series of straight stitches followed by one zig-zag stitch that jumps to the left. Sometimes it looks like a zig-zag that is mostly straight with little jags to one side.
   • There might be two types: one for woven fabrics, one for knit fabrics. The knit one is stretchier. Choose the one right for your fabric.
3. Adjust Stitch Settings:
   • Stitch Length: This controls how far apart the straight stitches are. Start with a medium length, maybe 2-3 mm. You might need to make it a little longer for some fabrics. If it’s too short, the stitches can pile up.
   • Stitch Width: This controls how far the zig-zag stitch swings to the side. This is very important. The zig-zag is the part that catches the main fabric. You need the width set so the zig-zag just barely catches the edge of the main fabric fold you made. Start with a small width, maybe 1-2 mm. You will test this on a scrap piece first. You can adjust it wider if the stitch isn’t catching the main fabric, or narrower if it’s catching too much.
4. Check Tension: Adjusting sewing machine tension for blind hem is also key for a nearly invisible stitch. Tension controls how the thread looks on both sides of the fabric.
   • If the tension is too tight, the thread might pull the fabric, making the stitch visible.
   • If the tension is too loose, the stitches might loop on the back or front.
   • You want the top thread and bobbin thread to meet perfectly within the fabric layers.
   • Start with your machine’s normal tension setting (often around 4 or 5).
   • You will test and adjust tension on a scrap piece before sewing your project.

These sewing machine settings for blind stitch might need tweaking based on your fabric and thread.

Practicing First

Always practice on a scrap piece of the same fabric you are using for your project. Fold the scrap just like you folded your main fabric for the blind hem.

1. Set up your machine with the blind hem foot and chosen settings (stitch type, length, width, tension).
2. Place the folded scrap fabric under the foot. Line up the edge of the main fabric fold (the “shelf”) against the guide on the blind hem foot.
3. Start sewing slowly. Watch how the needle swings. The straight stitches should go into the double-folded hem part. The zig-zag stitch should swing to the left and just pierce the very edge of the main fabric fold.
4. Sew a few inches.
5. Stop, cut the thread, and carefully open up the hem fold.
6. Look at the stitches on both the inside and outside of the fabric.
   • On the inside: You should see the line of straight stitches and the base of the zig-zags on the unfolded part of the hem.
   • On the outside: You should see very small, spaced-out dots where the zig-zag caught the main fabric. If you see loops or big stitches, check your tension and stitch width.

Troubleshooting during practice:

• Stitches are too visible on the outside:
  • Is the thread color a good match?
  • Is the stitch width too wide? Make it narrower.
  • Is the tension too tight? Loosen the tension slightly.
• Needle isn’t catching the main fabric fold:
  • Is the fabric edge lined up correctly against the foot’s guide?
  • Is the stitch width too narrow? Make it wider.
• Stitches are looping or messy:
  • Check your tension. Adjust the top tension dial. Rethread the machine completely if needed. Make sure the bobbin is wound correctly and inserted right.
• Fabric isn’t feeding straight:
  • Make sure your folds were pressed very well.
  • Keep the edge firmly against the guide on the foot.

Keep practicing and adjusting your sewing machine settings for blind stitch until you get a result you like on the scrap. Pay special attention to the stitch width and tension.

Sewing the Blind Stitch: A Step-by-Step Tutorial

Now you are ready to sew the actual hem on your project. This is your blind stitch tutorial sewing machine steps.

1. Prepare Your Fabric: Make sure your hem is marked, the raw edge finished, and the hem folds (double fold and the special blind stitch fold) are pressed and pinned.
2. Set Up Machine: Attach the blind hem foot. Select the blind hem stitch. Set the stitch length and width based on your practice. Set the tension based on your practice.
3. Position Fabric: Open the folded fabric flat under the foot. The edge you are hemming should be on the left. Place the fabric under the foot so that the edge of the main fabric fold you made lines up with the guide on the blind hem foot. The unfolded part of the hem should be under the main part of the foot, to the right of the guide.
4. Lower the Foot: Lower the presser foot. Make sure the guide on the foot is snug against the edge of the fabric fold.
5. Start Sewing: Begin sewing slowly.
   • Watch the needle. Most of the time, it will make straight stitches or small zig-zags within the body of the hem fold (to the right of the guide).
   • Every few stitches (depending on your stitch length and the machine’s stitch pattern), the needle will swing sharply to the left. This is the zig-zag part.
6. Guide the Fabric: As you sew, focus on keeping the folded edge of the fabric pressed against the guide on the blind hem foot. This is the most important part for getting the stitch to catch the main fabric correctly and evenly. Do not push or pull the fabric. Just gently guide it. Let the machine feed the fabric.
7. Watch the Needle Swing: Observe where the needle lands when it swings left. It should just graze the very top of the main fabric fold, picking up only one or two threads. If it goes too far left, stop and make the stitch width narrower. If it doesn’t catch the fabric at all, stop and make the stitch width wider.
8. Sew All Around: Continue sewing around the hem of your project. Take your time, especially around curves or corners. Keep the fabric edge lined up with the guide.
9. Joining the Start and End: When you get back to where you started, overlap your stitches by about half an inch. Sew a few backstitches to secure the end. Lift the needle and presser foot. Pull the fabric out.
10. Finish Threads: Trim your threads close to the fabric.

This step-by-step process for sewing a blind hem should help you get a nice result. Remember that practice is key.

Checking Your Blind Stitch Hem

After sewing, take the fabric off the machine.

1. Open the Fold: Carefully unfold the main fabric from the special blind stitch fold.
2. Inspect the Outside: Look at the right side of the fabric. You should see only tiny dots or slight indentations where the needle caught the main fabric. If you see large stitches or loops, you might need to adjust tension or stitch width and try again (or pick out the stitches).
3. Inspect the Inside: Look at the wrong side. You should see the line of stitches on the hem allowance.
4. Press Again: Give the finished hem a final good press with your iron. This helps the stitches settle into the fabric and makes the hem lie flat. Pressing can also sometimes make the stitches even less visible.

If the stitch is too visible, you might need to seam rip it out and try again after adjusting settings. But don’t worry! It takes practice to get perfect nearly invisible machine hemming.

Solving Common Blind Stitch Issues

Even with practice, you might run into problems. Here are some common ones and how to fix them. This is part of your sewing machine blind stitch guide.

• Stitches are too visible on the outside:
  • Check thread match: Is your thread color very close to the fabric?
  • Check stitch width: Is the zig-zag swinging too far? Make the stitch width smaller.
  • Check tension: Is the top tension too tight? It might be pulling the thread on the front. Loosen the top tension slightly.
  • Fabric type: Some fabrics show stitches more than others. A slightly textured fabric hides stitches better than a smooth, plain one.
• Needle is not catching the main fabric:
  • Check folding: Did you make the special blind stitch fold correctly? Is the edge of the main fabric fold right against the foot’s guide?
  • Check stitch width: Is the zig-zag width too small? Make the width wider.
• Stitches are looping on the top or bottom:
  • This is usually a tension problem. Check your adjusting sewing machine tension for blind hem. If loops are on the bottom, the top tension is likely too loose. If loops are on the top, the bobbin tension might be too loose (less common to adjust bobbin tension, usually fix with top tension) or the top thread path is blocked. Rethread your machine completely, making sure the thread is seated correctly in the tension discs.
• Skipped stitches:
  • Needle type/size: Is your needle right for the fabric? Try a new needle, especially if you are sewing on knit fabrics (use a ballpoint or stretch needle).
  • Threading: Is the machine threaded correctly?
  • Machine speed: Are you sewing too fast? Sometimes sewing a little slower helps the machine form stitches correctly.
• Hem doesn’t lie flat:
  • Pressing: Did you press the folds well before sewing? Pressing after sewing also helps.
  • Stitch tension: Is the tension too tight? It can make the hem edge wavy. Loosen tension slightly.
  • Fabric Stretch: On very stretchy fabrics, the blind stitch might cause some wavy-ness. Using the knit blind hem stitch setting can help. You can also try using a walking foot instead of the blind hem foot (though it’s harder to guide) or sew with a piece of water-soluble stabilizer under the hem.

Troubleshooting takes patience. Change one setting at a time, then test again on a scrap.

Tips for Nearly Invisible Machine Hemming

Getting that perfectly hidden stitch takes a bit of finesse. Here are some tips:

• Use the right thread: This is the single most important tip. Match the thread color perfectly, or use good quality clear thread carefully.
• Press, press, press: Ironing your folds crisp is vital for accurate sewing.
• Use the Blind Hem Foot: It is designed for this job and makes it much easier to guide the fabric accurately. Practice using a blind hem presser foot until you are comfortable lining up the fabric edge with the guide.
• Test on scraps: Always, always test your stitch settings and tension on a scrap of the same fabric before sewing on your project.
• Adjust stitch width carefully: This is the main setting that controls how much of the main fabric is caught. A tiny adjustment can make a big difference.
• Watch your tension: Get your tension balanced so stitches lie flat and don’t loop or pull. Adjusting sewing machine tension for blind hem is essential.
• Sew slowly and guide steadily: Don’t rush. Keep the fabric edge right against the foot’s guide.
• Use a fine needle: A smaller needle makes smaller holes in the fabric, which can help hide the stitch. Make sure it’s still appropriate for your fabric type.
• Consider fabric pattern: A busy or textured fabric pattern hides stitches better than a plain, smooth fabric.

Following this sewing machine blind stitch guide will help you get better results.

Blind Stitch vs. Other Hems (Simple Look)

Why choose a blind stitch? Let’s compare simply:

• Standard Straight Stitch Hem: Looks like a line of stitches on the outside. Strong and easy, but very visible.
• Zig-Zag Hem: A zig-zag line shows on the outside. Good for stretch fabrics or finishing edges, also visible.
• Rolled Hem: Very small, fine hem. Needs a special foot or technique. Clean finish, but stitch line is still visible.
• Hand Sewn Blind Hem: Stitches are tiny and truly invisible on the outside. Takes a lot longer to do by hand.
• Machine Blind Stitch Hem: Quick like machine sewing, much less visible than straight stitch or zig-zag hems, but not as invisible as a perfect hand stitch up close.

The machine blind stitch is a great middle ground. It’s faster than hand sewing but gives a much cleaner, less visible look than a standard machine hem stitch. It’s perfect for ready-to-wear clothing hems.

Projects for Your Blind Stitch

You can use your new skill to finish many things.

• Clothing: Hems on skirts, dresses, pants, sleeves, jacket bottoms. Where you want a neat finish without a visible stitch line.
• Home Decor: Hems on curtains, draperies, tablecloths, placemats.
• Crafts: Finishing edges on certain crafts where a clean look is needed.

Anywhere you need to hemming fabric with sewing machine and want the stitches hidden, the blind stitch is a good choice.

Summary of the Process

To recap how to blind stitch on a sewing machine:

1. Gather supplies, including the blind hem foot.
2. Choose matching thread and the right needle.
3. Prepare the fabric: finish edge, mark hem lines.
4. Fold the hem twice, then fold the main fabric back on itself, lining up the hem edge.
5. Set up your machine: attach blind hem foot, select blind hem stitch, set length, width, and tension (sewing machine settings for blind stitch).
6. Practice on a scrap and adjust settings (adjusting sewing machine tension for blind hem and width).
7. Sew the hem, keeping the fabric edge against the foot’s guide.
8. Open the fold and press the finished hem.
9. Check your work for nearly invisible machine hemming.

Following this blind stitch tutorial sewing machine should help you achieve good results. Remember that practice improves your skill in sewing a blind hem.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I sew a blind stitch without a blind hem foot?
A: It is much harder. The blind hem foot has a guide that helps you keep the fabric lined up correctly for the needle to catch the edge just right. You could try it with a regular foot, but it would be very difficult to get an even, hidden stitch. It is highly recommended to get and using a blind hem presser foot for this stitch.

Q: My machine has two blind hem stitches, one for stretch and one for regular. Which one do I use?
A: If your fabric is woven and does not stretch (like cotton, linen), use the regular blind hem stitch. If your fabric stretches (like knit fabrics used for t-shirts, leggings), use the stretch blind hem stitch. The stretch stitch allows the thread to stretch with the fabric.

Q: My stitches are showing too much! What is wrong?
A: Check these things: thread color match, stitch width (make it narrower), and tension (loosen top tension slightly). Make sure you are using the correct stitch type for your fabric. Also, re-check your folding – the special fold needs to be right against the foot’s guide. Getting nearly invisible machine hemming takes practice and fine-tuning your sewing machine settings for blind stitch.

Q: How do I handle corners with a blind hem?
A: Corners can be tricky. For square corners, you usually need to fold the hem up on both sides, then create a neat mitered corner (folding the excess fabric diagonally inside the hem). Press the mitered corner well before sewing. When you sew with the blind stitch, sew up to the corner, pivot, and continue along the next edge. The stitch will mostly sew within the folded fabric at the corner.

Q: My fabric is very thin. Will the blind stitch work?
A: It can be harder on very thin or sheer fabrics. The stitches might show more, or the needle might pull the fabric. Using a very fine needle, testing tension carefully, and possibly using a water-soluble stabilizer can help. Sometimes, on very fine fabrics, a rolled hem looks better.

Q: Can I use a blind stitch on jeans?
A: Yes, you can, but you will need a strong needle (like a denim needle) and strong thread. The folds will be bulky. You might need to hammer the thick seams flat first. It can be challenging but is possible. Many people prefer a standard topstitched hem for jeans because it is strong and expected for that fabric.

Q: How do I know what tension to use?
A: There is no single perfect number. It depends on your machine, thread, and fabric. You must test on a scrap. Start with your machine’s normal setting (often mid-range, like 4-5). Sew a test. Look at the stitches on both sides. Adjust the top tension dial little by little (e.g., 1 number at a time), testing after each change, until the stitches look balanced and the tiny catch-stitches on the outside are as hidden as possible. This is the most important part of adjusting sewing machine tension for blind hem.

Q: My machine doesn’t have a blind hem stitch. What can I do?
A: Most machines made in the last few decades have this stitch. Check your manual carefully. If it truly doesn’t, you might try using a regular zig-zag stitch set to a very long length and a very narrow width. This won’t be the same as a blind hem stitch and won’t work as well, but it’s the closest alternative. For truly invisible results without a blind hem stitch, you would need to sew the hem by hand.