Save Money: How To Tailor Suit Jacket Yourself Easily

Can you tailor a suit jacket yourself? Yes, you can do some basic suit jacket alterations at home, like shortening sleeves or taking in the waist slightly. Is it always easy? Simple changes can be straightforward if you have basic sewing skills and tools. However, more complex changes, like altering shoulders or jacket length significantly, are much harder and usually require professional jacket tailoring services. This post will show you how to do some common, easier adjustments yourself to save money, offer suit jacket fitting tips, and explain when it’s best to find a tailor for suits.

How To Tailor Suit Jacket
Image Source: bespokeunit.com

Why Fit Matters for Your Suit Jacket

Wearing a suit jacket that fits you well is very important. A good fit makes you look sharp. It makes you feel confident. A jacket that is too big looks sloppy. One that is too small feels tight. It can pull in strange places.

Professional jacket tailoring services can make any jacket fit like it was made just for you. But this costs money. Doing simple adjustments yourself can save you cash. You can make small tweaks at home. These tweaks can make a big difference in how your jacket looks and feels.

What You Can Do Yourself

Some changes are easier than others. You can try these at home if you have some sewing skill:

Shortening or lengthening sleeves (if there is extra fabric).
Taking in the waist slightly.

These are common needs. They are usually the easiest to do yourself. They do not involve taking apart the main structure of the jacket.

What Needs a Pro

Other changes are much harder. They need a skilled person. These changes often mean taking the jacket apart more. They might involve shaping the padding inside. You should not try these at home unless you are an expert:

Changing the shoulders (tailor suit shoulders). This involves padding and the jacket structure.
Making the jacket shorter or longer (suit jacket length adjustment) by a lot. This changes the balance.
Adjusting the collar.
Reshaping the chest area.
Taking in the jacket a lot at the waist or sides.
Relining the jacket.

For these harder jobs, finding a tailor for suits is the best choice. They have the right tools and knowledge. They can make these complex suit jacket alterations without ruining your jacket. The cost to tailor a suit jacket for these jobs is higher, but it is worth it for a good result.

Getting Ready: What You Need

To do basic suit jacket alterations at home, you need some tools. You might have some already.

Sewing Machine: This helps make strong, neat seams quickly. You can do it by hand, but it takes longer.
Needles: Get needles that are right for the fabric. A mix is good.
Thread: Match the color of your jacket fabric exactly. Get strong thread.
Good Scissors: You need sharp scissors for fabric. Do not use them for paper.
Seam Ripper: This small tool helps take out old stitches carefully.
Measuring Tape: Use a flexible cloth tape.
Tailor’s Chalk: This special chalk lets you make marks on the fabric. It brushes off later.
Pins: Sharp pins hold fabric together before you sew.
Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing is key in sewing. It makes seams flat and neat.
Pressing Cloth: This protects your fabric from the hot iron.
Thimble: Protects your finger when sewing by hand.

Having these tools ready makes the work easier and more accurate.

Before You Sew: Grasping Key Ideas

Before you start adjusting a suit jacket, learn a few basic things.

How Jackets are Built: Suit jackets have many layers. There is the outer fabric. There is a lining inside. There are also things like canvas, padding, and interfacing between these layers. These give the jacket its shape. Simple changes usually just deal with the outer fabric and lining near the edges or seams.
Taking Measurements: Have someone help you measure while you wear the jacket. Stand naturally. Do not puff out your chest. See where the jacket is too loose or too tight.
Trying on the Jacket Right: Wear the shirt and any other clothes you would normally wear under the jacket. This gives you the most accurate fit. Button the jacket if it is meant to be buttoned. Check how it feels.
Marking Changes: Use tailor’s chalk to mark where you need to change. Mark the new seam line. Mark how much you need to take in or let out. Pins can also help hold the fabric in place while you mark.

Good suit jacket fitting tips before starting are:
* Stand in front of a mirror. Look at how the jacket hangs.
* Have a friend help you mark. It is hard to reach some spots.
* Mark slowly and carefully. Double-check your marks.
* Make small marks. You do not want big chalk lines.

Changing the Sleeves: Tailor Suit Sleeves

This is one of the most common and easiest suit jacket alterations you can do yourself. Sleeves are often too long or too short off the rack.

Shortening Suit Sleeves

Shortening is usually easier than lengthening. Most jacket sleeves have extra fabric folded inside the hem.

Step-by-Step: Shortening Sleeves

Here are the steps to tailor suit sleeves by shortening them:

Try On and Mark: Put the jacket on. Decide the new sleeve length. The sleeve cuff should ideally hit around the wrist bone. It should show about half an inch of your shirt cuff. Have someone mark the desired finished length with chalk or a pin. Mark all around the sleeve.
Measure How Much to Remove: Take the jacket off. Measure from the original hem edge up to your mark. This is how much you need to shorten the sleeve by. Add about 1.5 to 2 inches (3-5 cm) below your mark for the new hem.
Open the Hem: Use your seam ripper. Carefully remove the stitches holding the sleeve hem. Open up the lining from the sleeve end too. Do not cut the fabric yet.
Press the Hem: Iron the folded hem area flat. This helps remove the old fold line. Use a pressing cloth.
Mark the Cut Line: Measure up from the original hem edge. Measure the amount you need to remove minus the new hem allowance (1.5 to 2 inches). Mark a line around the sleeve at this point. This is your cutting line.
Cut the Fabric: Cut along the marked line carefully. Cut both the outer fabric and the lining if they were attached at the hem.
Prepare the New Hem: Fold up the raw edge of the outer fabric. Fold it up by about 0.5 inches (1-1.5 cm) and press. Then fold it up again by the remaining hem allowance (1-1.5 inches). Pin the fold.
Sew the Hem: Sew the hem fold in place. You can do this by hand using a blind stitch (stitches you cannot see on the outside). Or you can sew it with a machine very close to the folded edge inside the sleeve. The hand stitch looks cleaner from the outside.
Finish the Lining: The lining is now longer than the outer sleeve. Trim the lining so it extends about 0.5 to 1 inch (1-2.5 cm) beyond the new sleeve hem. Fold up the lining edge twice and press. Sew this lining hem by machine or hand.
Attach Lining to Sleeve: Insert the lining back into the sleeve. Fold the lining hem edge under. Hand stitch the lining hem to the sleeve hem allowance on the inside of the jacket. Do not sew through to the outside fabric. You want the lining to be slightly shorter than the sleeve edge. This way it does not show.
Press Again: Press the finished sleeve hem from the inside. Use a pressing cloth.
Check Buttons: Look at where the buttons are on the sleeve cuff. If they are too close to the new hem, you might need to move them up slightly. This is common on functioning button cuffs. If the buttons are just for show, you might need to reattach them higher.

Here is a table for shortening sleeves:

Step	Action	Details
1. Mark Length	Try on, mark desired sleeve end.	Aim for wrist bone, showing shirt cuff.
2. Measure Change	Measure from old hem to new mark. Add hem allowance.	Note total needed length change.
3. Open Hem	Use seam ripper to remove old stitches. Open lining.	Be careful not to cut fabric.
4. Press Old Hem	Iron the folded area flat.	Removes old fold line. Use cloth.
5. Mark Cut Line	Measure up from original hem, subtract new hem allowance. Mark line.	This is where you cut.
6. Cut Fabric	Cut along the marked line.	Cut outer fabric and lining together if needed.
7. Prepare New Hem	Fold raw edge under (0.5″), then fold again (1-1.5″). Pin.	Creates the new hem fold.
8. Sew Hem	Sew the hem fold. Hand stitch (blind) is best for outside look.	Or machine stitch inside.
9. Finish Lining	Trim lining longer than sleeve. Fold lining edge twice. Sew.	Lining hem should be neat.
10. Attach Lining	Insert lining. Hand stitch lining hem to sleeve hem allowance inside.	Do not sew through outer fabric. Lining is slightly shorter.
11. Press Finished	Press the new hem from inside.	Use a pressing cloth.
12. Check Buttons	See if cuff buttons need moving up.	Important for look, essential for working buttons.

Lengthening Suit Sleeves

Lengthening is only possible if the manufacturer left extra fabric folded inside the original hem. Many cheaper jackets do not have much extra fabric.

Step-by-Step: Lengthening Sleeves

Try On and Mark: Put the jacket on. See how much longer the sleeve needs to be. Mark the desired length.
Measure Extra Fabric: Take the jacket off. Open the old hem with a seam ripper. Open the lining too. See how much fabric is folded inside. Measure this amount. This is the maximum you can lengthen the sleeve. You will lose about 0.5 to 1 inch (1-2.5 cm) for the new hem.
Press the Fabric: Iron the opened hem area flat. This reveals the extra fabric. Use a pressing cloth.
Mark New Hem: Measure down from the old fold line. Measure the amount you are lengthening the sleeve by, minus the new hem allowance (0.5-1 inch). Mark a new hem fold line. Then measure down 0.5-1 inch more and mark the raw edge line.
Create New Hem: Fold up the raw edge along the new hem line. Pin in place. If you could only lengthen a little, the new hem might be very small.
Sew New Hem: Sew the new hem fold. Use a blind stitch by hand if possible. Or machine stitch close to the edge on the inside.
Finish the Lining: Trim the lining if needed so it is slightly longer than the new sleeve length. Fold the lining edge under twice and press. Sew the lining hem.
Attach Lining: Insert the lining. Hand stitch the lining hem to the sleeve hem allowance inside the jacket.
Press Again: Press the finished hem.
Check Buttons: Adjust button position if needed.

Lengthening is harder if there is not much fabric. It can leave a faint mark from the old fold line. Pressing well helps.

Changing the Waist: Suit Jacket Waist Alteration

Taking in the waist can give the jacket a more fitted shape. This makes it look more modern and sharp. You can usually take in a few inches. Taking in too much can distort the jacket’s shape. Most jackets are adjusted at the side seams and sometimes the center back seam. For beginners, adjusting the side seams is usually simpler.

Taking In the Waist at Side Seams

Step-by-Step: Taking In Waist

Here are the steps for suit jacket waist alteration by taking in the side seams:

Try On and Mark: Put the jacket on. Button it. Pinch the fabric at the side seams where it feels too loose. Have someone pin along the seam line to show how much needs to be taken in. Do this on both sides. Try to make it even. Mark the new seam line with tailor’s chalk. The line should start smoothly from above the waist area (chest) and end smoothly below the waist area (hips). It should taper gently.
Measure How Much to Take In: Take the jacket off. Measure the distance from the original seam line to the marked line. This is how much you will take in on one side. Double this amount to find the total waist reduction.
Open the Lining: You need to access the side seams. Carefully open the lining seam near the side seam you want to change. Usually, there is an opening somewhere in the lining or you need to make a small one. Use your seam ripper.
Mark New Seam Line: Turn the jacket inside out. Lay it flat. Find the side seam. Use your tailor’s chalk to draw the new seam line inside the jacket. Start the line above the waist area, follow the pinch line you marked, and end it smoothly below the waist. Make sure the line is smooth and curved slightly, not a sharp angle. Do this on both side seams, marking the same amount on each side.
Pin the Seam: Pin along the new chalk line. Make sure the fabric layers are smooth underneath.
Sew the New Seam: Sew slowly along the new chalk line. Use a strong, matching thread. Use a stitch length of about 2.5-3 mm. Start sewing a little before your marked line begins and end a little after it ends. This helps the new seam blend smoothly with the old one.
Try On and Check Fit: Before cutting, try the jacket on inside out. See if the fit is right. If it is still loose, you can sew a new line slightly deeper. If it is too tight, use your seam ripper to remove stitches and sew a less deep line.
Trim Extra Fabric: Once the fit is good, trim the extra fabric about 0.5 to 0.75 inches (1-2 cm) away from your new seam line. Be careful not to cut the original seam stitches or the jacket fabric near the seam.
Finish the Raw Edge: The cut edge will fray. You need to finish this edge. You can use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine or an overlocker if you have one. Or you can overcast by hand. This stops the fabric from coming apart.
Press the Seam: Press the new seam flat. You can press it to one side or press the seam open (pressing each side of the seam allowance away from the seam). Use a pressing cloth. Pressing is very important for a smooth finish.
Close the Lining: Sew the opening in the lining closed by hand using a slip stitch. This stitch is nearly invisible.
Final Press: Give the outer fabric a final press, focusing on the side seams, using a pressing cloth.

Here is a table for taking in the waist:

Step	Action	Details
1. Mark Changes	Try on, pinch excess fabric at sides, pin, mark with chalk.	Make marks even on both sides.
2. Measure Amount	Measure from old seam to mark.	This is amount per side. Total is double this.
3. Open Lining	Use seam ripper to access side seams inside jacket.	Be careful not to damage lining or jacket.
4. Mark New Seam	Turn jacket inside out. Draw new seam line on fabric with chalk.	Line should be smooth, gentle curve. Start and end smoothly.
5. Pin Seam	Pin along the new chalk line.	Hold fabric layers together neatly.
6. Sew New Seam	Sew along the chalk line with machine or strong hand stitches.	Use matching thread. Blend smoothly with old seam.
7. Check Fit	Try on inside out. Adjust seam if needed by sewing deeper or ripping.	Make sure it feels right before cutting.
8. Trim Fabric	Cut extra fabric about 0.5-0.75″ from new seam.	Do not cut the stitches or main jacket fabric.
9. Finish Edge	Finish raw edge with zigzag stitch, overlock, or hand overcast.	Stops fraying.
10. Press Seam	Press the new seam flat inside the jacket.	Press seam open or to one side. Use cloth.
11. Close Lining	Hand stitch the lining opening closed.	Use a nearly invisible stitch (slip stitch).
12. Final Press	Press the outer fabric at the side seams.	Use a pressing cloth.

Taking in the center back seam is possible but often slightly more complex as it involves a vent (the split at the bottom back of the jacket) which needs to be handled carefully. It is usually best to start with the side seams.

When to Find a Tailor for Suits

As mentioned before, some suit jacket alterations are very hard. They need special skills and tools. Trying them yourself is likely to damage the jacket.

Alterations you should almost always take to a professional tailor include:

Tailor Suit Shoulders: This is one of the hardest changes. The shoulder area has padding and structure that gives the jacket its shape. Changing it involves taking apart the top of the jacket and reshaping it. This requires a lot of skill. A bad shoulder alteration ruins the jacket.
Suit Jacket Length Adjustment (Significant): Making a jacket much shorter or longer changes its proportions. It can make the pockets or buttons look out of place. The vent at the back might need to be redone. This is complex work.
Changing the Neckline or Collar: This affects the fit around the upper chest and neck. It requires careful work near important seams.
Major Reshaping: If a jacket is much too big everywhere, it might need to be rebuilt in several places (shoulders, chest, waist, length). This is more than just simple adjusting a suit jacket.
Moving Pockets: This is very hard as it leaves marks from the old stitching.

For these jobs, the cost to tailor a suit jacket will be higher. But paying a professional is an investment. It saves your jacket from being ruined.

Finding a Tailor for Suits

How do you find a good tailor?

Ask friends, family, or coworkers for recommendations.
Look for tailors with good reviews online.
Visit a few tailors. Talk to them about the changes you need. See if they seem knowledgeable.
Some dry cleaners offer tailoring. Check their quality and experience, especially for complex suit work.
A tailor specializing in suits or men’s clothing is often best for jacket alterations.

Do not be afraid to ask questions about their experience with specific suit jacket alterations like tailor suit shoulders or suit jacket length adjustment. Ask about the cost to tailor a suit jacket for your needed changes. Prices can vary.

Suit Jacket Fitting Tips for a Good Fit

Even if you are doing simple changes, knowing how a jacket should fit helps you mark correctly. Here are some suit jacket fitting tips:

Shoulders: The shoulder seam should end right at the edge of your shoulder bone. It should not extend past it or fall short. This is the most important fit point and hardest to change.
Chest: With the top button (if it has three) or the middle button (if it has two) buttoned, the fabric should lay flat across your chest. You should be able to slide your hand flat between your chest and the jacket fabric easily, but not much more.
Waist: The jacket should follow the line of your body slightly. It should not be boxy or too tight. If you pinch the fabric at the side seam at your waist, you should be able to pull out about 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) on each side. More than this means it might be too loose. Less means too tight. Suit jacket waist alteration helps here.
Length: For a classic fit, the jacket front hem should end around the middle of your hand when your arms hang straight down. For a more modern fit, it might be slightly shorter, covering your seat in the back. Suit jacket length adjustment can be done but is hard.
Sleeves: As mentioned, sleeves should end around the wrist bone, showing about half an inch of shirt cuff. Tailor suit sleeves for this fit.
Collar: The jacket collar should rest against your shirt collar. It should not stand away from your neck or bunch up.

Use these tips when trying on the jacket to decide what suit jacket alterations are needed. Mark carefully based on these ideal fit points.

Keeping Your Altered Jacket Nice

Once you have done your suit jacket alterations or had them done, proper care helps the changes last.

Hang your jacket on a good quality hanger (wood is best). This helps keep its shape, especially in the shoulders.
Do not wear the same jacket every day. Let it rest between wears.
Brush your jacket regularly with a garment brush. This removes dust and dirt.
Use a pressing cloth when ironing to avoid damaging the fabric or making it shiny.
Get it dry cleaned only when needed. Too much dry cleaning can harm the fabric.

Following these steps for adjusting a suit jacket yourself can help you get a better fit without the full cost to tailor a suit jacket professionally. Start with simple changes like sleeves or waist and gain confidence. Remember for hard jobs, finding a tailor for suits is the smart choice.

Frequently Asked Questions about Suit Jacket Alterations

h4. What is the average cost to tailor a suit jacket?

The cost to tailor a suit jacket varies a lot. Simple changes like shortening sleeves might cost $20-$40. Taking in the waist might be $30-$50. More complex changes are much more. Changing shoulders (tailor suit shoulders) could cost $100-$200 or more. Significant suit jacket length adjustment might be $60-$100. Prices depend on the tailor’s skill, location, and the jacket’s construction.

h4. Can I tailor suit shoulders myself?

No, tailor suit shoulders is very difficult. It involves complex padding, structure, and precise work to maintain the jacket’s shape. Beginners or even intermediate home sewers should not attempt this. It requires professional jacket tailoring services.

h4. How much can a suit jacket waist alteration reduce the size?

A suit jacket waist alteration can usually take in the waist by about 1-3 inches total. Taking in more than that can change the proportions too much. It might make the front of the jacket look too small compared to the back or pull the pockets out of place.

h4. How long does it take to tailor suit sleeves?

If you do it yourself, shortening sleeves might take 1-2 hours depending on your skill and if you are hand sewing or machine sewing. A professional tailor can often do simple tailor suit sleeves work in a week or less. Sometimes they can do it in a day if needed, but you might pay more for a rush job.

h4. Are jacket tailoring services expensive?

Jacket tailoring services can seem expensive compared to the cost of the jacket itself, especially if the jacket was not costly to begin with. However, for a well-made jacket, tailoring is an investment. It makes the jacket look and feel much better. The cost to tailor a suit jacket reflects the tailor’s skill and time. Complex alterations are more costly than simple ones. Comparing the cost to tailor a suit jacket to buying a new, well-fitting jacket helps show the value. Often, tailoring is cheaper than buying new.

h4. What are the most important suit jacket fitting tips?

The most important suit jacket fitting tips are checking the shoulders, chest, and jacket length. The shoulders are key because they are hard to change. The chest fit shows if the jacket is generally the right size. The length affects the overall look and proportion. Sleeves and waist are also important but easier to change.