DIY: How To Make Sewing Pattern From Clothing Yourself

Can you make a sewing pattern from clothes you already own? Yes, you absolutely can. This skill lets you make a copy of a piece you love. It is like figuring out how something was made by looking closely at it. People sometimes call this ‘reverse engineering fashion’. You take a finished item and work backwards to get the pattern pieces. This way, you can make that favorite shirt or dress again.

How To Make Sewing Pattern From Clothing
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Why Make a Pattern From Clothes?

Maybe you have a shirt that fits you just right. Or a dress that is just the perfect style. But the fabric is worn out. Or you want it in a different color or pattern. Instead of trying to buy it again, you can make it yourself!

Making a sewing pattern from clothes saves money. Store patterns cost money. Fabric costs money too, but using fabric you find or buy on sale is cheaper than buying a new outfit. Plus, you can use any fabric you like. You are not stuck with what the store offers.

This skill lets you make a unique piece. You can use special fabric. You can change small things about the design if you want. You get a custom fit. A favorite piece of clothing often fits you very well. By copying it, you get that great fit again. This is a simple way to start pattern making. It helps you learn how clothes are shaped.

What You Need To Copy Clothing To Sew

Gathering the right tools makes the job easier. You do not need a lot of fancy things. Here is what you will likely need:

The clothing item you want to copy.
Large paper. This can be pattern paper, tracing paper, butcher paper, or even cheap wrapping paper without a grid.
Fabric weights or heavy objects (like cans) to hold the paper and clothes still.
Pencils, pens, or fabric chalk. Use something easy to see on your paper.
A ruler or straight edge.
A measuring tape.
Pins (optional, but helpful).
A pattern tracing wheel (optional, helpful for the rubbing method pattern making).
Clear tape (if you need to join paper pieces).
Scissors (for paper).

Grasping Different Ways To Copy

There are a few ways to make a pattern from clothing.

Tracing: This is probably the easiest way for most people. You lay the garment flat and trace around its edges. You need to flatten parts like sleeves and collars carefully.
Rubbing Method: This is good for getting seam lines. You use a tracing wheel or tailor’s chalk and rub it over the seam line with paper on top. The bumps of the seam show through. This helps you trace clothing pattern pieces accurately.
Transferring Measurements: You measure the garment all over. Then you use these measurements to draw out the pattern pieces from scratch. This is more like traditional drafting from clothes. It needs a bit more skill in pattern making techniques.
Taking Apart: The most exact way is to carefully take the garment apart at the seams. Then you lay the pieces flat and trace them. This destroys the original clothing item. Most people do not want to do this to a favorite piece!

We will focus on the tracing method. It is good for beginners and does not harm your clothes. This helps you copy existing garment designs easily.

Preparing Your Clothing Item

Before you start to trace clothing pattern pieces, get your garment ready.

Wash and dry the item. Make sure it is clean and not stretched out of shape.
Press or iron it flat. This helps you lay it out smoothly on the paper. Wrinkles can make your tracing wrong.
Close all zippers, buttons, snaps, and hooks. This keeps the garment in its proper shape.

Find a large, flat surface to work on. The floor, a big table, or even a clean bed works. Lay out your paper first. Make sure you have enough space for the biggest pieces of the garment. Tape paper sheets together if you need more room.

Deciphering How To Trace A Simple Shirt

Let’s start with a simple shirt. This could be a t-shirt or a woven shirt without too many complex parts. This helps you duplicate favorite shirt pattern shapes.

Laying Out The Back Piece

Lay your large paper flat on your work surface.
Take your shirt. Lay the back of the shirt flat on the paper.
Smooth out all wrinkles. Make sure the fabric is flat, especially along the edges you will trace.
Line up the center back of the shirt with a straight edge of your paper if you have one. This helps keep your pattern straight. Or, you can draw a straight line on your paper first to use as your center back line. This line is important. It is called the “grainline” direction on the pattern. It shows how the pattern piece should line up with the fabric’s straight threads.
Place weights on the shirt to keep it still. Put weights on the sleeves, the middle, and the hem.

Tracing The Back

Start tracing one side. Use a pencil or pen. Draw a line right along the edge of the shirt.
Trace from the bottom hem up the side seam.
Trace along the armhole curve (where the sleeve joins the body).
Trace along the shoulder line.
Trace along the back neckline.
Go down the other shoulder line, armhole, and side seam to the hem.
Trace along the bottom hem.
If you used a center back line, trace only one half of the back piece. You will cut the fabric on the fold later. If the back has a seam down the middle, trace the whole back.
Mark important points: the center of the neckline, where the shoulder meets the armhole, where the side seam meets the armhole, the hemline.
Write “Back” on the paper piece. Add notes like “Cut 1 on fold” (if tracing half the back) or “Cut 2” (if tracing the full back).

Tracing The Front Piece

Now, lay the front of the shirt flat on the paper.
Smooth it out just like the back.
Line up the center front of the shirt with a straight line on your paper. This will be your center front line (the grainline).
Place weights to hold it still.
Trace along the hem, up the side seam, the armhole curve, the shoulder line, and the front neckline.
Trace the other side.
Mark the same key points as you did for the back.
If tracing half the front, write “Front” and “Cut 1 on fold”. If tracing the full front, write “Front” and “Cut 2” (for pieces that open, like with buttons) or “Cut 1” (if it’s one piece but not cut on the fold).
If the front has darts (folded fabric to shape it), try to lay the dart flat as you trace. Then, mark where the dart is. You might need to pinch the dart as it would be sewn to see its shape better and transfer garment measurements related to it.

Tracing The Sleeve

Sleeves can be tricky because they are curved to fit the armhole.

Lay one sleeve flat on the paper. Smooth it out. Try to make the armhole curve as flat as possible without stretching it.
Place weights on the sleeve.
Trace around the outer edges: the cuff, up the underarm seam, around the sleeve cap (the top curve that fits into the armhole), and down the other underarm seam.
Mark the highest point of the sleeve cap. This point usually lines up with the shoulder seam.
Mark the two points where the underarm seams meet the sleeve cap. These points line up with the side seams of the body piece.
Write “Sleeve” on the paper piece. Add “Cut 2” because shirts have two sleeves. Mark the grainline – this usually runs parallel to the length of the sleeve, from the high point of the cap down to the cuff.

Tracing The Neckband/Collar

This part depends on the shirt style.

Rib knit neckband (like a t-shirt): This is a separate piece. Often it is a rectangle or slightly curved band cut on the fold. Try to measure its width and length when not stretched. Or, trace it as a rectangle based on its finished size, noting it needs to stretch.
Woven collar: This is more complex. It usually has a collar stand and the collar itself. Try to flatten each part as much as possible and trace it. Note where it connects to the shirt neckline. This needs careful attention to detail in pattern making techniques.

Tracing Other Pieces

Look at your shirt for other parts:

Cuffs: Lay flat and trace. Note if cut on fold or how many needed.
Plackets (for buttons): Lay flat and trace. Note if it is a separate piece or part of the front pattern.

Adding Seam Allowance

The lines you just traced are the stitching lines. This is where the fabric edges come together when sewing. But you need extra fabric outside these lines to sew on. This extra fabric is called seam allowance.

The amount of seam allowance varies. Common amounts are:

1/2 inch (1.25 cm) for most seams (sides, shoulders, sleeves).
5/8 inch (1.5 cm) is also common, especially on commercial patterns.
1 inch (2.5 cm) or more for hems.

You need to add this amount all around your traced lines.

How To Add Seam Allowance

For each traced pattern piece (front, back, sleeve, etc.), use your ruler.
Measure out the desired seam allowance from your traced line.
Make small marks along the edge at that distance.
Connect the marks to draw a new line outside the tracing line. This new outer line is your cutting line.
Do this for every edge of every pattern piece.
For hems, add the hem allowance at the bottom. It is usually larger than seam allowance. Look at the original garment’s hem to see how much fabric is folded up. Add that amount.

Example Seam Allowance

Side seams: Add 1/2 inch (1.25 cm)
Shoulder seams: Add 1/2 inch (1.25 cm)
Armhole seams: Add 1/2 inch (1.25 cm)
Sleeve seams: Add 1/2 inch (1.25 cm)
Neckline: Add 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) or 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) depending on how it’s finished.
Hems (bottom of shirt, sleeves): Add 1 inch (2.5 cm) or 1.5 inches (3.8 cm).

Write the seam allowance amount on each pattern piece near the edge.

Transferring Garment Measurements And Markings

Besides the basic shape, your pattern needs other information.

Grainline: Draw a long arrow on each piece showing the direction the fabric should run. This is usually straight up and down, parallel to the center front/back or the length of the sleeve.
Fold lines: If a piece is cut on the fold, mark the fold line clearly.
Notches: These are small marks on the pattern edges. They help match pieces when sewing. Look at your original garment’s seams. Are there small clips? These might be notches. You can add your own, like one notch on the front armhole and sleeve cap, two notches on the back armhole and sleeve cap. This helps align the sleeve correctly. Add notches at the side seams too, to match front and back.
Button/Buttonhole placement: If your shirt has buttons, mark where they go on the front pattern piece.
Dart markings: If you marked darts when tracing the front, draw them clearly on the pattern piece.
Pocket placement: If there are pockets, mark where they should go on the pattern. You will need a separate pattern piece for the pocket itself. Lay the pocket flat and trace it, adding seam allowance.

Write the name of the piece (Front, Back, Sleeve), size (if known, or just “My Favorite Shirt”), date, and how many to cut on each pattern piece.

Fathoming How To Create Sewing Pattern From Dress

Copying a dress uses the same ideas as a shirt, but dresses can have more pieces and shapes. This lets you create sewing pattern from dress styles you love.

Simple Dress Styles

For a simple A-line or shift dress:

Lay out the back and front pieces. Trace them like the shirt body pieces. Dresses are longer, so you will need more paper.
Dresses might have waist shaping. If the dress nips in at the waist, smooth it flat as best you can. If there are darts, trace them or try to flatten them out and mark their position.
Trace sleeves if it has them (like the shirt).
Trace the neckline shape. Note if it is finished with a facing, binding, or band. You will need separate pattern pieces for facings or bands.

Dresses With More Parts

Dresses can have:

Waist seams: The bodice (top part) and skirt are separate pieces. Trace the bodice front and back. Trace the skirt front and back. Note where they join.
Princess seams: These are seams that curve from the armhole down to the hem, or from the shoulder down. You will have multiple pattern pieces for the front and back body. Carefully flatten each panel and trace it separately.
Gathered skirts: The skirt piece might be a large rectangle or trapezoid that is gathered onto the bodice. Measure the length and width of the skirt panels when flat. The top edge width will be much wider than the bodice it attaches to.
Zippers: Mark the location and length of zippers. If a zipper is in a seam (like center back), remember to add seam allowance along that edge for the zipper insertion.
Linings: If the dress has a lining, you might want to copy the lining pieces too. They are often similar to the main fabric pieces but might be shorter or attached differently.

When copying a dress, take your time. Look closely at how the different parts fit together. Trace each part separately and label it clearly (e.g., “Front Bodice Center,” “Front Bodice Side,” “Back Skirt,” etc.).

Rubbing Method Pattern Making Explained Simply

The rubbing method is especially helpful for finding exact seam lines or dart lines without taking the garment apart.

Lay the garment flat on your work surface. Place paper over the area you want to copy (like a seam or a dart).
Use a pattern tracing wheel. This tool has a small wheel with teeth. Roll the tracing wheel directly over the seam line or dart line. The teeth make little holes in the paper, marking the line below.
Alternatively, you can use tailor’s chalk. Place the paper over the seam. Rub the side of the chalk crayon over the paper. The seam creates a raised line under the paper, and the chalk will highlight this line on the paper.
Once you have the marked line on the paper, you can lift the paper and draw a solid line over the chalk marks or holes.
Use this method along with tracing edges to get a more accurate pattern.

This rubbing method is one of the useful pattern making techniques for capturing seam details precisely.

Interpreting Pattern Pieces

Once you have traced all your pieces, added seam allowances, and marked everything, look at your set of pattern pieces.

Do you have a front, back, sleeves (if applicable), collar/neckband, and any other unique pieces?
Are they clearly labeled?
Is the grainline marked on every piece? This is very important for how the fabric hangs.
Are seam allowances added?
Are notches marked to help match pieces?

You are essentially creating your own set of instructions for sewing. This is a form of drafting from clothes.

Checking Your Pattern: The Muslin Test

Sewing a practice version is very important. This is called making a “muslin” or a “toile.” Use cheap fabric that is similar in weight and stretch to the fabric you plan to use for the final garment.

Cut out your pattern pieces from the cheap fabric. Remember to cut along the outer line (the cutting line, including seam allowance).
Transfer your markings (darts, notches, button placement) to the fabric. You can use tailor’s chalk, fabric pens, or tailor’s tacks.
Pin the pieces together following the seam lines you drew (the inner line, not the cutting line).
Machine stitch or hand stitch the pieces together using the seam allowance you added. Do not worry about finishing seams neatly. This is just a test.
Try on the muslin garment.
Check the fit. Is it too tight? Too loose? Are the shoulders right? Does the neckline lie flat?
Check the style. Do the seams hang correctly? Are darts in the right place?
Make notes directly on the muslin with a marker. Pin changes you want to make. For example, if the waist is too big, pin along the side seams to make it smaller. If the neckline is too high, draw a new line.

Fixing The Pattern After The Test

After you try on the muslin and make notes:

Carefully take the muslin apart (or parts of it).
Lay the muslin pieces on top of your paper pattern pieces.
Transfer the changes you marked on the muslin back to your paper pattern. Draw new lines where you pinned or drew adjustments.
Smooth out the lines.
If you made big changes, you might need to sew another muslin to check the fit again.

This test fitting is a key part of pattern making techniques. It ensures your hard work in copying clothes to sew results in a garment that fits well.

Helpful Tips For Copying Clothes

Start Simple: Do not try to copy a complex jacket or a layered evening gown for your first project. Start with a t-shirt, a simple skirt, or simple pants.
Look at Seams: Before you even lay the garment flat, look closely at how it is put together. Where are the seams? Are there darts, pleats, or gathers? How is the neckline finished? This helps you identify the pattern pieces you will need to trace.
Trace Half: For pieces that are the same on the left and right (like the front or back of most shirts), you only need to trace half. Mark the center line and cut the fabric piece on the fold later. This saves time and makes sure the two sides are exactly the same.
Note Fabric Type: The original garment’s fabric matters. Was it stretchy knit? Woven cotton? Silk? Note this on your pattern. It affects how the garment hangs and how you should cut and sew the new one. If copying a knit, remember knit fabric stretches, so your pattern from it might look smaller than a woven fabric pattern for the same size.
Check Symmetry: When tracing, especially for the front and back, try to fold the garment in half lengthwise along the center. This helps you see if your tracing is even on both sides if you are tracing the full piece.
Take Photos: Take pictures of the garment before you start. Take pictures of details like collars, cuffs, pockets, and waistbands. This helps you remember how they are put together when you sew.
Label Everything: Label every pattern piece right away. Write down what it is, how many to cut, and any special instructions.

Going Further With Pattern Making Techniques

Once you are comfortable tracing simple items, you can try more complex ones. You can also start to understand how to modify patterns.

Want to change the neckline? Draw a new neckline shape on your copied pattern piece.
Want to change the sleeve length? Just extend or shorten the sleeve pattern piece.
Want to add a pocket? Design a pocket piece and mark its placement.

Copying clothes is a great way to learn the basics of pattern making. It shows you the shape of different pattern pieces and how they join to make a 3D garment. This is the foundation for drafting from clothes and eventually creating your own designs from scratch. Practicing copying helps you improve your pattern making techniques.

Using techniques like transferring garment measurements before you even trace can give you a framework. Measure the length of the garment, the width at the bust, waist, and hips, the sleeve length, the neck opening, etc. Write these down. As you trace, check if your traced shapes match these measurements (before adding seam allowance).

Remember the rubbing method pattern making for areas with defined seams you want to capture accurately. It saves you from guessing where the seam line really is inside the garment.

By taking the time to carefully trace clothing pattern shapes and transfer garment measurements, you are building a reusable pattern library based on items you know and love. This makes copying clothes to sew a rewarding process.

Benefits of This Skill

Being able to copy existing garment patterns has many benefits:

Perfect Fit: Recreate garments that fit you perfectly.
Save Money: Make new clothes using less expensive fabric.
Unlimited Wardrobe: Have any style of clothing you own in any fabric you desire.
Learn Sewing: Get a deeper understanding of garment construction by seeing pattern shapes.
Customization: Easily change small details of a copied pattern to make it your own.
Repair/Replace: If a favorite item is damaged beyond repair, you can make a new one just like it.
Unique Style: Use unique or vintage fabrics to make clothes nobody else has.

This process of drafting from clothes turns you into your own fashion designer and pattern maker. You are not just sewing; you are creating. You are using reverse engineering fashion principles in a fun, practical way.

FAQ: Common Questions About Copying Clothes

Is tracing better than measuring?

Tracing often gives you the exact shape of the garment piece, including curves like armholes and necklines, which are hard to measure accurately. Measuring is good for overall size checks and proportions, but tracing captures the subtle shaping. Using both transfer garment measurements before tracing as a guide, and then tracing, gives the best result.

Can I copy stretchy knit clothes?

Yes, but be careful! Knit fabric stretches. Try to lay the garment flat without stretching it while tracing. The resulting pattern might look smaller than a woven pattern. When sewing with knit fabric, you will use special stitches that stretch. Test your copied pattern with a cheap knit fabric (muslin) first.

How do I copy pockets, collars, or waistbands?

These are usually separate pattern pieces. Flatten them out as much as possible and trace their outer shape. Remember to add seam allowance around them. For complex collars or waistbands, you might need to trace multiple pieces (like a collar stand and the collar itself). Looking closely at the original item’s construction helps.

What if the original garment has gathers or pleats?

If a section is gathered (like a skirt attached to a waistband), trace the full, un-gathered piece. It will look much wider than the part it connects to. If there are pleats, carefully unfold them and trace the fabric flat. Note on the pattern where the pleats should be refolded and sewn.

How do I figure out the grainline?

On most woven garments, the grainline runs parallel to the selvedge (the finished edge) of the fabric, which is usually vertical on the body of the garment and along the length of the sleeve. On a t-shirt, the grainline runs straight up and down the body and length of the sleeve. Look at the direction of the threads in your original garment if you are unsure. The grainline arrow on your pattern piece tells you how to line it up on your new fabric.

Do I need to add seam allowance?

Yes, always add seam allowance. The traced line is the stitching line. You need extra fabric beyond that line to sew the pieces together. Forgetting seam allowance will make your new garment too small.

My pattern piece looks weird or uneven. What did I do wrong?

It is common when starting! The fabric might not have been perfectly flat, or you might have stretched it while tracing. This is why making a muslin is so important. It lets you see these errors and fix them on your paper pattern before cutting your good fabric. Checking your traced halves against each other for symmetry helps too.

Making a sewing pattern from clothing is a valuable skill for any sewer. It opens up endless possibilities for your handmade wardrobe. With a little practice, you can copy existing garment designs with confidence. You can truly duplicate favorite shirt pattern shapes or create sewing pattern from dress styles you adore. Happy copying!