Get Perfect Gathers: How To Gather With A Sewing Machine

How do you gather fabric with a sewing machine? You can gather fabric with a sewing machine in several easy ways, making sewing fabric gathers a simple process. The most common method uses a long stitch setting, while others use special tools like a gathering foot sewing machine or a ruffler foot. Learning these gathering techniques lets you add beautiful fullness to skirts, sleeves, ruffles, and other sewing projects quickly and evenly.

How To Gather With A Sewing Machine
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What Are Fabric Gathers?

Fabric gathers add fullness and volume to a piece of fabric. Think of the waistline of a skirt or the top of a puff sleeve. Gathers are created by stitching along an edge of fabric and then pulling the threads to scrunch it up to a smaller size. This scrunched fabric is then sewn to a piece of fabric that is the final desired size. It’s a simple way to make a straight piece of fabric fit a curved edge or a shorter edge, creating lovely soft folds.

Main Ways To Gather Fabric

There are a few main ways to create gathers using your sewing machine. Each method has its pros and cons. Choosing the right method depends on the type of fabric you use, how much gathering you need, and the tools you have available.

Here are the main methods we will cover:

Using a long straight stitch (often called ease stitching or basting stitch gathering).
Using a gathering foot sewing machine.
Using a ruffler foot.
Using a zigzag stitch over a cord or thread.

Let’s look at each one in detail.

Compassing The Long Stitch Gathering Method

This is the most common and basic way to gather fabric with a sewing machine. It works well for most fabrics and gather amounts. It’s also a good technique for ease stitching, where you just need to gather fabric a little bit to make it fit smoothly.

How To Do Long Stitch Gathering

This method involves sewing one or two lines of long, loose stitches along the edge of the fabric you want to gather. Then, you gently pull the bobbin threads to create the gathers.

Here are the steps:

Set Your Machine: Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length it has. This is often labeled as 4 or 5 on the stitch length dial or screen. Do not use a backstitch at the start or end of your stitching. You need the threads free to pull.
Adjust Sewing Machine Tension: For gathering, you often need looser sewing machine tension than usual. A slightly lower tension setting (try lowering the top tension by one or two numbers) makes the threads easier to pull later. Test on a scrap first.
Stitch the First Line: Sew a line of stitches along the edge you want to gather. Stitch about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) away from the raw edge. Sew slowly and steadily. Remember, no backstitching. Leave long thread tails at the beginning and end (4-6 inches or 10-15 cm).
Stitch the Second Line (Recommended): For better control and more even gathers, sew a second line of stitches. Stitch this line about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) away from the first line, closer to the raw edge. Or, stitch it 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) away from your seam line (the line where you will attach the gathered fabric). Again, no backstitching and leave long thread tails. Having two lines makes the gathers stronger and easier to spread evenly.
Gather the Fabric: Hold the fabric with the bobbin thread tails facing you. Grab the two bobbin threads from one end. Gently and slowly pull the threads. As you pull, the fabric will start to scrunch up, forming gathers. Use your other hand to gently slide the fabric along the threads as you pull. Pulling bobbin thread gather is the key step here.
Distribute the Gathers: Pull the fabric until it is gathered to the desired length. This length is usually given in your sewing pattern instructions. Once the gathers are formed, gently slide the fabric along the threads to spread the gathers out evenly. Make sure the gathers look nice and consistent across the entire section.
Secure the Gathers: Once the gathers are even and the fabric is the correct length, tie off the thread tails on each end. You can tie the two bobbin threads together. Or, tie the bobbin threads to the needle threads on each end. This holds the gathers in place while you sew.
Sew the Gathered Fabric: Pin the gathered fabric to the piece you are attaching it to. Pin carefully to keep the gathers even. Sew the seam line between your two rows of gathering stitches (if you used two lines). Use your normal stitch length and tension for this final seam. Sew slowly over the gathers to avoid shifting them.
Remove Gathering Stitches: After sewing the final seam, carefully remove the long gathering stitches. The top thread is usually easier to pull out. Be careful not to cut your final seam stitches.

Pros and Cons of Long Stitch Gathering

Pros:

No special foot needed.
Works for most fabrics.
Gives you good control over where the gathers are placed.
Easy to adjust the gather amount.
The standard method for a gather tutorial sewing.

Cons:

Can be slow for very long lengths of fabric.
Threads can break if you pull too hard, especially on delicate fabrics.
Getting perfectly even gathers takes practice.

Interpreting Specialized Gathering Tools

While the long stitch method is basic and reliable, special sewing machine feet can make gathering much faster and easier, especially if you do a lot of it.

The Gathering Foot Sewing Machine

A gathering foot is a special presser foot designed specifically for creating gathers. It has a raised bar or a small plate at the back that holds the fabric slightly, allowing the needle to push the fabric forward as it stitches, creating gathers automatically.

How To Use A Gathering Foot

Using this foot is much quicker than the long stitch method because it creates the gathers as you sew. You don’t need to pull threads afterward.

Here are the steps for using a gathering foot:

Attach the Foot: Remove your standard presser foot and attach the gathering foot to your sewing machine. Make sure it is attached correctly according to your machine’s manual.
Adjust Settings: Set your machine to a straight stitch. The amount of gathering the foot creates depends on a few things:
- Stitch Length: A longer stitch length creates more gathers. A shorter stitch length creates fewer gathers. Experiment with different lengths.
- Sewing Machine Tension: Higher needle (top) tension can sometimes create more gathers as it pulls the fabric more tightly. Lower tension creates fewer gathers. Again, test this on a scrap.
- Fabric Type: Thicker or stiffer fabrics will gather differently than thin or soft fabrics, even with the same settings.
Prepare Fabric: If you are attaching the gathered fabric to another flat piece of fabric at the same time (like attaching a ruffle to a skirt edge), you can do this in one step with some gathering feet.
- Place the fabric to be gathered under the gathering foot.
- If attaching to a flat piece, slide the flat fabric into the slot or under the lip on top of the gathering foot. The gathering foot will only gather the fabric underneath it.
- If only gathering one piece, just place that piece under the foot.
Start Sewing: Sew a straight line. The foot will automatically push the fabric together, forming gathers as you sew. Go slowly and guide the fabric. Do not backstitch if you need to adjust later, but often with a gathering foot, you sew the final seam in one pass.
Test and Adjust: Sew a test strip on a scrap piece of fabric using the same fabric you will use for your project. Check the amount of gathering. If you need more gathers, increase the stitch length or try increasing the top tension slightly. If you need fewer gathers, decrease the stitch length or lower the top tension. Keep testing until you get the desired amount of gather.
Sew the Project: Once you are happy with the test gathers, sew the actual piece of fabric. If you sewed the gathered piece to a flat piece in one step, your seam is done! If you only gathered one piece, pin it to the flat piece (distributing gathers visually if needed, though the foot aims for even gathers) and sew your final seam.

Pros and Cons of the Gathering Foot

Pros:

Very fast way to create gathers.
Can sometimes attach gathered fabric to flat fabric in one step.
Produces fairly consistent gathers once settings are right.

Cons:

The amount of gathering is less precise than the thread-pulling method and depends heavily on machine settings and fabric.
You might need to experiment a lot on scraps to get the right gather ratio.
Doesn’t work well for very heavy or very light fabrics.
Less control over distributing gathers exactly where you want them after sewing.

The Ruffler Foot

A ruffler foot is another specialized foot, but it’s more complex than a gathering foot. It’s designed to create more defined pleats or ruffles, but it can also be used for strong gathers. It has adjustable settings to control the depth of the pleat/gather and how often a pleat/gather is made (e.g., every stitch, every 6 stitches, every 12 stitches).

How To Use A Ruffler Foot

The ruffler foot works with a mechanism that pushes the fabric forward at set intervals.

Here are the general steps:

Attach the Foot: Attach the ruffler foot to your machine. There is usually an arm on the ruffler that needs to sit over the needle clamp screw. Read your ruffler foot’s instructions carefully, as they can vary slightly.
Adjust Ruffler Settings: The ruffler foot has dials or levers to control:
- Depth of Pleat/Gather: How deep or full each pleat/gather is.
- Frequency: How often a pleat/gather is made (e.g., 1, 6, 12 stitches apart, or no pleats/gathers at all).
Adjust Machine Settings: Use a straight stitch. The stitch length can also affect the final look, even with the ruffler doing the main work. Normal sewing machine tension is usually fine, but check your manual.
Prepare Fabric: Like the gathering foot, some ruffler feet can attach gathered fabric to a flat piece in one step.
- Fabric to be ruffled/gathered goes under the foot.
- Flat fabric (if attaching) goes into the special slot or guide.
Start Sewing: Sew slowly and steadily. The ruffler foot will automatically gather or pleat the fabric according to its settings.
Test and Adjust: Test on scrap fabric first. Adjust the ruffler foot settings and possibly your stitch length until you get the desired look and amount of fullness.
Sew the Project: Sew your actual fabric piece.

Pros and Cons of the Ruffler Foot

Pros:

Creates very consistent and often deeper gathers or pleats than a gathering foot.
Highly adjustable for different looks.
Can attach gathered fabric in one step.

Cons:

More expensive and complex than a gathering foot.
Takes more time to set up and learn the adjustments.
Can be bulky and harder to maneuver on small curves.
Less control over subtle gathering amounts; it’s better for more pronounced fullness.

Exploring Other Gathering Approaches

Besides the main methods, there are other ways to create sewing fabric gathers or similar effects.

Zigzag Stitch Gathering Over a Cord

This is a clever method that uses a zigzag stitch and a strong cord or thread (like dental floss, buttonhole thread, or even thin yarn) to create gathers.

How To Do Zigzag Stitch Gathering

Prepare Fabric: Decide where your final seam line will be. Mark two lines on your fabric: one just inside the seam line and one just outside the seam line (e.g., 1/8 inch/0.3 cm on either side of the seam line).
Place the Cord: Lay a strong cord or thread along one of your marked lines. Make sure the cord is longer than your fabric piece. Do not sew through the cord!
Set Machine: Set your machine to a zigzag stitch. Adjust the stitch width so that the zigzag stitches go over the cord but do not catch the cord itself. The cord should be free within the zigzag stitches. Use a medium stitch length.
Stitch Over the Cord: Sew the zigzag stitch carefully over the cord, following your marked line. Leave long cord tails at both ends. Stitching slowly helps keep the cord in the right place.
Repeat (Optional): For extra strength or control, repeat this process with another cord along the second marked line.
Gather Fabric: Hold the fabric and gently pull on the cord tails. The fabric will gather along the cord(s). This method is very strong as you are pulling on the cord, not the stitching threads.
Distribute and Secure: Gather the fabric to the correct length, distribute gathers evenly, and tie off the cord ends to secure.
Sew and Remove: Pin the gathered fabric and sew your final seam next to the zigzag stitches. Then, carefully pull out the cord(s). The zigzag stitches can remain or be carefully removed if visible.

Pros and Cons of Zigzag Stitch Gathering

Pros:

Very strong gathering method because you pull on the cord.
Less chance of threads breaking.
Good control over gather placement.

Cons:

Takes time to lay the cord and stitch over it carefully.
Need a strong cord that won’t break or shred.
Can be tricky to get the zigzag width just right so it goes over but not through the cord.

Ease Stitching

Ease stitching is a type of gathering technique, but it’s used to make a slightly longer piece of fabric fit smoothly into a slightly shorter space, without creating obvious folds or gathers. Think of setting in a sleeve cap – the sleeve cap is slightly larger than the armhole, and ease stitching helps it fit smoothly.

How To Do Ease Stitching

Set Machine: Use a slightly longer stitch length than your normal sewing stitch (e.g., 3 or 3.5 instead of 2.5). Do not use your longest gathering stitch setting. Use normal sewing machine tension.
Stitch: Sew a single line of stitches just inside the seam line of the larger piece of fabric. Do not backstitch. Leave thread tails.
Match Fabric Edges: Pin the two pieces of fabric together, matching notches and seams.
Ease Fabric: Gently pull the bobbin thread of the ease stitching slightly. This will gather the larger fabric just enough to make its edge the same length as the shorter edge it’s being sewn to. Distribute the slight fullness evenly with your fingers so there are no puckers or obvious gathers, just a smooth curve.
Sew Seam: Sew the final seam using your normal stitch length and tension. Sew on the side with the ease stitching visible, so you can ensure you don’t create puckers as you sew.
Remove Stitch: Remove the ease stitching thread after the seam is sewn.

Pros and Cons of Ease Stitching

Pros:

Creates a smooth fit for curved seams.
Simple and quick method.
Avoids bulky gathers.

Cons:

Not suitable for creating visible gathers or ruffles.
Only works for small amounts of fullness that need to be eased in.

Prepping Your Machine: Sewing Machine Tension and Stitch Length

Getting your sewing machine settings right is vital for successful sewing fabric gathers, especially with the long stitch method or gathering feet.

Stitch Length

Long Stitch Method: Always use the longest straight stitch possible on your machine (usually 4 or 5). This creates loose stitches that are easy to pull and gather the fabric.
Gathering Foot: Stitch length controls the amount of gather. Longer stitch = more gather. Shorter stitch = less gather. Experimentation is key.
Ruffler Foot: Stitch length works with the foot’s settings. A slightly longer stitch might contribute to more fullness, but the foot’s settings are the main control.
Zigzag Method: A medium stitch length (around 2.5-3) works well for the zigzag over a cord, as you need the zigzag to be wide but not too dense.
Ease Stitching: A slightly longer than normal stitch (e.g., 3 or 3.5) is used, not the longest gathering stitch.

Sewing Machine Tension

Long Stitch Method: Slightly looser top tension (lower number) makes pulling the bobbin thread gather much easier. Test this! If the threads are breaking, lower the tension more. If the stitches are too loose and loop on the back before you even start pulling, your tension might be too loose.
Gathering Foot: Higher top tension can sometimes increase the amount of automatic gathering. Lower tension decreases it. Test on a scrap.
Ruffler Foot: Usually uses normal tension. The foot’s mechanism creates the gather.
Zigzag Method: Normal tension is usually fine, as you are pulling the cord, not the sewing threads, for gathering.
Ease Stitching: Use normal tension.

Needle and Thread

Use a sharp, appropriately sized needle for your fabric type and weight. A dull needle can snag delicate fabrics.
Use good quality thread. Cheap thread can break easily when you are pulling the bobbin thread gather, which is very frustrating! Polyester thread is generally strong and suitable.

Tips for Beautiful Sewing Fabric Gathers

Achieving perfect, even gathers takes a little practice, but these tips will help.

Always Test First: Sew a sample piece of fabric with your chosen method and settings. This lets you check the gather amount and adjust before working on your actual project fabric. Use a scrap of the exact same fabric.
Mark Your Stitch Lines: For the long stitch method, using a fabric marker or tailor’s chalk to draw your two stitch lines helps keep them straight and parallel.
Use Two Lines of Stitches: For the long stitch method, using two lines of stitches makes gathers much easier to control and distribute evenly. Stitch inside and outside your final seam line.
Leave Long Tails: Leave long thread tails (4-6 inches) at the start and end of your gathering stitches. This gives you something easy to hold onto when pulling the bobbin thread gather.
Pull Gently and Slowly: Do not yank the threads. Pull them slowly and carefully. Use your other hand to gently push the fabric along the threads as you pull.
Gather to the Correct Size: Measure the section you are attaching the gathered fabric to. Gather your fabric until it matches that length.
Distribute Evenly: Pin the gathered piece to the flat piece at the ends and center point first. Then, gently slide the fabric along the gathering threads (before tying them off fully) to spread the gathers smoothly between the pins. Add more pins as needed to hold the gathers in place before sewing.
Pin Within the Seam Allowance: When pinning the gathered fabric to the flat piece, keep your pins within the seam allowance so you don’t sew over them or leave pin marks outside the seam.
Sew Between Gathering Lines: If you used two lines of gathering stitches, sew your final seam between those two lines.
Sew with Gathered Side Up: When sewing the final seam, keep the gathered fabric layer on top. This allows you to see the gathers and smooth them out with your fingers right before they go under the presser foot, preventing puckers.
Sew Slowly: Sew the final seam slowly over the gathered fabric. This helps keep the gathers in place and prevents your machine from getting bogged down.
Remove Gathering Stitches: After sewing the final seam, carefully remove the gathering stitches. The upper thread is usually easy to pull out from the right side.

Troubleshooting Common Gathering Problems

Sometimes things don’t go perfectly. Here are solutions for common issues when creating sewing fabric gathers.

Thread Breaks When Pulling:
- Cause: Thread is too weak or tension is too tight.
- Fix: Use stronger thread (polyester). Lower your sewing machine tension for the gathering stitches. Pull the threads more gently and slowly. If a thread breaks, tie the broken end to a new piece of thread or sew a new line of gathering stitches.
Gathers Are Uneven:
- Cause: Not using two rows of stitches, pulling too fast, not distributing evenly before sewing, fabric slipping while sewing.
- Fix: Always use two lines of gathering stitches. Pull threads slowly. Spend time carefully distributing gathers and pinning thoroughly before sewing the final seam. Sew with the gathered side up and smooth fabric as you sew.
Fabric Not Gathering Enough (Long Stitch):
- Cause: Stitch length is too short.
- Fix: Increase your stitch length to the longest setting on your machine.
Fabric Not Gathering Enough (Gathering Foot):
- Cause: Stitch length is too short or tension is too low.
- Fix: Increase stitch length. Try slightly increasing the top sewing machine tension. Test on scraps.
Machine Won’t Sew Over Gathers:
- Cause: Too many layers, gathers are too bulky, stitch length/tension wrong for the final seam.
- Fix: Ensure your final seam settings are correct (normal stitch length/tension). Go slowly. If the gathers are very dense or fabric is thick, you might need a walking foot or a heavier-duty needle. Sometimes, slightly flattening the gathers just before the foot helps.
Gathering Foot or Ruffler Foot Not Gathering:
- Cause: Foot not attached correctly, settings incorrect, fabric type not suitable.
- Fix: Double-check the foot is attached properly. Review your machine and foot manual for settings. Test settings on scraps. Some very stiff or very slippery fabrics don’t work well with automatic gathering feet.

Comparing Gathering Methods

Here is a quick look at the different gathering techniques:

Method	Speed	Control Over Placement	Result Type	Special Foot Needed?	Ideal For
Long Stitch (Pulling Threads)	Medium	High	Soft, even gathers	No	Most projects, good control
Gathering Foot	Fast	Medium	Fairly even gathers	Yes	Quick gathers on medium-weight fabrics
Ruffler Foot	Fast	Low (by interval)	Defined pleats/strong gathers	Yes	Creating ruffles, consistent fullness
Zigzag Over Cord	Medium	High	Strong gathers	No (but need a cord)	Heavy fabrics, less thread breakage
Ease Stitching	Medium	High	Smooth easing, no visible gathers	No	Setting sleeves, curved seams

This table provides a quick gather tutorial sewing comparison. For most beginners learning to gather, the long stitch method is the best place to start.

A Step-by-Step Gather Tutorial Sewing Summary

Here is a brief run-through of the most common method, the long stitch gathering:

Set machine: Longest straight stitch, slightly loose top tension.
Sew two lines of stitches within the seam allowance (e.g., 1/8″ and 1/4″ from edge). Leave long thread tails. No backstitching.
Hold the two bobbin threads from one end.
Gently pull bobbin thread gather while pushing fabric along the threads.
Gather fabric to the correct length needed.
Distribute gathers evenly using pins.
Tie off thread tails to secure gathers.
Pin gathered fabric to the flat piece.
Sew the final seam between the two gathering lines (with gathered side up). Use normal stitch length/tension.
Carefully remove the two gathering threads.

This gather tutorial sewing summary highlights the core steps for the basic method.

Conclusion

Learning how to gather with a sewing machine opens up many possibilities in your sewing projects. Whether you choose the reliable long stitch gathering method, speed things up with a gathering foot sewing machine, create structured ruffles with a ruffler foot, or use the strong zigzag stitch over a cord technique, practice is key. Pay attention to your sewing machine tension and stitch length settings, test on scrap fabric, and take your time distributing your sewing fabric gathers evenly. With a little patience, you’ll be creating beautiful, professional-looking gathers in no time.

Frequently Asked Questions About Gathering

Q: Can I use just one row of gathering stitches?

A: Yes, you can, but two rows give you much better control over the gathers. It’s easier to distribute them evenly, and if one thread breaks, you still have the other one to hold the gathers. For small, lightweight pieces, one row might be enough, but for anything longer or heavier, two rows are strongly recommended.

Q: My bobbin thread keeps breaking when I pull it. Why?

A: This is usually because your top sewing machine tension is too tight, you are pulling too hard or too fast, or your thread is weak. Try lowering your top tension setting for the gathering stitches. Pull the threads more slowly and gently. Use good quality polyester thread.

Q: How do I know how much fabric I need for gathers?

A: A common rule of thumb is to use fabric that is 1.5 to 3 times the finished width you need. For example, if you need a gathered piece that is 10 inches wide, you would start with fabric that is 15 to 30 inches wide. The exact ratio depends on the desired fullness and the fabric type. A pattern will usually tell you the required fabric width.

Q: How do I make gathers look really full?

A: To make gathers look fuller, you need to start with a wider piece of fabric (a higher fullness ratio, like 3 times the finished width). For the long stitch method, this means pulling the fabric onto the threads more tightly. With a gathering foot, use a longer stitch length and potentially higher tension. With a ruffler foot, adjust the settings for deeper pleats or more frequent gathers.

Q: Can I gather delicate fabrics like chiffon?

A: Yes, but it requires extra care. Use a sharp, fine needle (like a microtex needle) and fine thread. Use your longest stitch length and very loose tension for the long stitch method. Pull the bobbin threads very gently. The zigzag over a cord method can also work well for delicate fabrics as you aren’t pulling the sewing threads themselves. Test thoroughly on scraps.

Q: Do I remove the gathering stitches after sewing the final seam?

A: Yes, you should always remove the gathering stitches (the long stitches you pulled to create the gathers) after you have sewn the final seam that holds the gathered fabric in place. These stitches are usually visible and are no longer needed once the main seam is sewn.

Q: Can I gather knit fabric?

A: Yes, you can gather knit fabric. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle. The long stitch method works well, but be extra gentle pulling the threads as knits can snag. You can also use a gathering foot on some stable knits. Test your method on a scrap of the knit fabric first.