You want to know how to sew a blind stitch on a sewing machine. You can make this special stitch on most modern sewing machines that have a blind hem stitch setting. This stitch helps you create a hem that is almost invisible from the front side of your fabric. Many people call this an invisible hem stitch machine technique. It is a great way to finish clothing and home decor items like curtains. We will show you how to use your blind hem stitch sewing machine to make this neat stitch.
Making clothes or fixing them often means sewing a hem. A hem is the finished edge of fabric, usually at the bottom of a skirt, pants, or sleeve. There are many machine stitches for hems. You can use a simple straight stitch, but sometimes you want a hem that you can barely see. This is where the blind stitch comes in. It lets you make a clean edge without a clear line of stitches showing on the outside. This gives your projects a very professional look.
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Deciphering the Blind Stitch
Let’s talk about what a blind stitch is. It is a type of stitch that connects a folded edge of fabric to the main part of the fabric with tiny stitches that are mostly hidden within the fold.
Imagine a zig-zag stitch. A regular zig-zag goes back and forth across a flat piece of fabric. The blind stitch is different. It makes several straight stitches parallel to the folded edge, then every few stitches, it makes one zig-zag stitch that goes out to the side and catches just a tiny bit of the main fabric layer. Then it zig-zags back and makes more straight stitches.
The trick is how you fold the fabric. When you fold the fabric a certain way, most of the straight stitches land inside the folded edge. Only that one zig-zag stitch reaches out. If you set it up right, that small zig-zag stitch just picks up one or two threads from the outside fabric. This makes it hard to see from the front.
Think of it like taking tiny bites of the main fabric while sewing mostly within the hem fold. This is why it looks “blind” or “invisible.” It is a clever way to hem fabric by machine.
Why Use a Blind Stitch?
Why would you pick the blind stitch over other machine stitches for hems? Here are some good reasons:
- It looks clean: Stitches are hidden. This makes your project look store-bought.
- It is professional: Garments and home goods often use this hem for a finished look.
- It works well for many fabrics: You can use it on skirts, pants, dresses, curtains, and more.
- It is faster than hand sewing: Hand sewing a blind hem takes a long time. Your machine does it quickly.
- It holds well: Even though the stitches are small on the outside, the straight stitches inside the fold make a strong hem.
Using the blind stitch is a good skill to learn for anyone who sews clothes or makes items for their home.
Gathering Your Tools
Before you start, make sure you have everything you need ready. Having the right tools makes the job much easier.
- Sewing Machine: You need one that has a blind stitch setting. Most modern machines do. Look for an icon that looks like a zig-zag with some straight lines next to it. It might be labeled “Blind Hem” or “Blind Stitch.” This is your blind hem stitch sewing machine.
- Blind Stitch Presser Foot: This foot is very important! It helps you guide the fabric perfectly to make the stitch almost invisible. It usually has a metal or plastic guide blade down the center. We will talk more about this foot soon. It is sometimes called a blind hem foot.
- Thread: Choose thread that matches your fabric color very closely. If you cannot find an exact match, pick a shade slightly darker. Darker thread hides better in shadows than lighter thread.
- Fabric: The item you need to hem. Make sure it is ironed flat.
- Scissors: For trimming fabric and threads.
- Pins or Clips: To hold the hem fold in place before sewing.
- Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing your hem folds is a must for a good blind stitch. Do not skip this step!
Having your blind stitch presser foot ready is key. If your machine did not come with one, you can usually buy one that fits your machine brand and model. Look for a “blind hem foot” specific to your machine.
Prepping Your Fabric for the Hem
Getting the hem fold right is the most important step. If your fold is not correct, the blind stitch will not work as it should. It might show too much, or it might not catch the fabric.
Here is how to prepare your fabric:
H4: The First Fold
- Decide how deep your hem will be. This is how much fabric you will fold up. A common depth is 1 to 2 inches.
- Trim your fabric edge. Make sure the raw edge is even and neat. If it is very frayed, you might want to finish the edge first. You can serge it, use a zig-zag stitch, or fold it over one more time (a double fold hem).
- Fold the raw edge up towards the wrong side of the fabric. Fold it by about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.
- Press this first fold. Use your iron to make a crisp crease. This is super important! Pressing makes the fabric stay in place and gives you a clean edge to work with.
H4: The Second (and Special) Fold
Now you will make the main hem fold. This is the fold that creates the edge you will sew along.
- Fold the fabric up again. Fold it up the full depth of your planned hem. For example, if you want a 2-inch hem, fold up so the first pressed fold is now 2 inches from the bottom edge of the fabric.
- Press this second fold well. Use your iron to make a strong crease at the bottom of the hem. You now have a double-folded hem. The raw edge (or the finished first fold) is tucked inside this large fold.
- Now comes the special part for the blind stitch. You need to fold the hem you just made back onto the right side of your fabric. Yes, fold it the opposite way!
- Fold the top edge of the hem back. Fold it so that about 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch of the hem edge sticks out past the main fabric fold. The main fabric is folded up. You are folding that folded edge back down. This creates a little ridge or ledge. The main fabric is now on top, and the hem is folded underneath and then folded back on itself. It looks a bit like an accordion fold or a Z-shape from the side.
- Press this reverse fold. This is the edge you will guide along the blind stitch presser foot. Press it firmly. This reverse fold is temporary; you will unfold it after sewing.
Look at the edge you just pressed. It should be the top edge of your hem allowance folded back onto the right side of the fabric. This is the edge that the blind hem foot tutorial will focus on guiding.
H5: Pinning the Hem
- Pin this temporary fold in place.
- Put pins in vertically, along the edge you will sew.
- Do not use too many pins, but use enough to keep the fold from shifting.
Now your fabric is ready for the machine! The key is that little ledge or ridge you created with the reverse fold.
Setting Up Your Sewing Machine
Time to get your machine ready for the machine blind stitch tutorial. Using the right sewing machine settings for blind hem is important for the stitch to work correctly and be hidden.
H4: Choose the Right Stitch
- Turn on your sewing machine.
- Find the blind hem stitch. Look at the stitch options on your machine. It might be a dial, buttons, or a touch screen.
- Select the blind hem stitch. The icon usually looks like a few straight lines followed by a zig-zag that goes out to the side. There might be two versions: one for woven fabrics and one for stretch fabrics. For most non-stretchy fabrics (like cotton, linen, denim), use the woven blind hem stitch. For knits or stretchy fabrics, use the stretch blind hem stitch (it usually has more zig-zags or a slightly different pattern).
H4: Attach the Blind Hem Foot
- Raise the presser foot lever.
- Remove the standard presser foot. There is usually a button or lever on the back of the foot holder that releases it.
- Attach the blind hem foot. Line up the bar on the foot with the foot holder. Lower the presser foot lever. The foot should snap or lock into place.
H4: Adjusting Blind Stitch Tension
This is one of the most crucial sewing machine settings for blind hem. Tension controls how the upper and lower threads interlock.
- If the tension is too tight: The stitches might pull or pucker the fabric. The zig-zag stitches might show too much on the right side.
- If the tension is too loose: The stitches might be loopy or not hold the fabric together well.
Start with your machine’s default tension setting (often around 4 or 5). You will likely need to adjusting blind stitch tension based on your specific fabric and thread.
H5: Testing Tension on Scrap Fabric
- ALWAYS test your blind stitch on a scrap piece of the same fabric you are hemming. Fold the scrap the same way you folded your hem.
- Sew a few inches.
- Look at the stitches on both sides.
- On the back side (inside the hem fold), the stitches should look even.
- On the front side (right side of the fabric), the tiny zig-zag stitches should be barely visible dots or should just pull slightly into the fabric. If they are large loops or clearly visible stitches, your tension might be off, or your stitch width/length might be wrong.
- Adjust your upper tension dial or setting. Try lowering the number slightly if the bobbin thread is pulling loops to the top. Try increasing the number slightly if the top thread is pulling loops to the bottom.
- Sew another test line after each adjustment until the stitches look good on both sides.
H4: Set Stitch Length and Width
These are also important sewing machine settings for blind hem.
- Stitch Length: This controls the length of the straight stitches (the ones mostly hidden in the fold). A shorter length means more stitches per inch and a stronger hold. A length of 2 to 3 mm is common. Shorter length (like 1.5-2 mm) is good for fine fabrics. Longer length (like 3-4 mm) for heavier fabrics.
- Stitch Width: This controls how far the zig-zag stitch swings out to the side. This is critical for how much of the main fabric the stitch catches.
- Start with a medium width, maybe 2.5 to 3 mm.
- You want the zig-zag to just catch a tiny amount of the main fabric’s threads.
- If the zig-zag is too wide, it will be very visible on the front.
- If the zig-zag is too narrow, it will not catch the main fabric at all, and your hem will not be attached.
- Adjust the width based on your fabric and your test stitches. You might need to make it narrower for fine fabrics and wider for thicker fabrics or if you folded a wider ledge.
H5: Final Check on Settings
Before sewing your actual project, double-check:
- Is the blind hem stitch selected?
- Is the blind stitch presser foot attached?
- Have you tested and adjusted the adjusting blind stitch tension on a scrap?
- Are the stitch length and width set correctly for your fabric?
Getting these sewing machine settings for blind hem right on a test piece saves you from mistakes on your actual garment.
Interpreting the Blind Hem Foot
The blind stitch presser foot (or blind hem foot) is your best friend for this stitch. It has a special design to help you sew a perfect blind hem.
H4: How the Foot Works
The key feature of the blind hem foot tutorial is the guide blade. This is a piece of metal or plastic that runs down the middle of the foot from front to back. There is often an adjustable screw or lever to move this guide left or right.
- When you are sewing the blind stitch, the straight stitches happen on the left side of this guide.
- The zig-zag stitch happens on the right side of this guide.
- You position your fabric so the folded edge (the little ledge you created by folding the hem back) runs right along the guide blade.
H5: Using the Guide Blade
- You feed your fabric so that the guide blade on the foot rides right against the edge of the reversed hem fold (the ledge).
- As the needle makes the straight stitches, it lands to the left of the guide, within the bulk of the hem fold.
- When the needle makes the zig-zag stitch, it swings to the right of the guide. If your fabric edge is against the guide, this swing to the right will just catch the very edge of the main fabric.
H5: Adjusting the Guide
Some blind hem feet have a way to adjust how far left or right the guide is from the needle position.
- If your stitches are catching too much fabric (zig-zag goes too far right), you might need to move the guide blade slightly more to the left (away from the needle swing).
- If your stitches are not catching the main fabric at all (zig-zag does not reach), you might need to move the guide blade slightly more to the right (closer to where the needle swings).
Always test after adjusting the guide position, just like you test tension. This part of the blind hem foot tutorial is key to getting the stitch placement exact.
Machine Blind Stitch Tutorial: Sewing the Hem
Okay, your fabric is prepped, your machine is set up with the correct sewing machine settings for blind hem, and you have the blind stitch presser foot attached. Now it’s time to sew! This is your step-by-step machine blind stitch tutorial.
- Place fabric under the foot. Slide your fabric under the blind stitch presser foot. The fabric should be folded with the hem allowance folded back onto the right side, creating that ledge.
- Position the folded edge. Align the folded edge (the ledge) so that the guide blade on the blind stitch presser foot is right against it. The bulk of the hem is to the left of the guide, and the main fabric (where the zig-zag will catch) is to the right.
- Lower the presser foot. Make sure the guide stays right on the edge.
- Start sewing slowly. Sew at a steady pace.
- Watch the needle and the guide. As you sew, the needle will make straight stitches to the left of the guide. Then, every few stitches, it will swing out to the right (the zig-zag).
- Keep the fold against the guide. Your main job while sewing is to keep that folded edge of the fabric lightly pressing against the guide blade on the foot. This makes sure the zig-zag stitch always catches the fabric in the right spot – just a tiny bit.
- Sew all the way around. Sew along the folded edge until you reach the beginning.
- Overlap stitches slightly. When you get back to where you started, sew over the first few stitches by about 1/2 inch to secure the thread.
- Lift the presser foot and cut threads. Carefully remove your fabric from the machine.
- Unfold the hem. Now, unfold that temporary reverse fold you made. Lay the hem flat.
- Press the finished hem. Go back to your ironing board and press the hem one last time from the wrong side. This flattens the stitches and makes the hem look neat.
H5: Checking Your Work
- Turn your fabric over to the right side.
- Look closely at the hemline.
- You should see little to no stitching. Maybe just tiny dots where the zig-zag caught the single threads.
- If you see clear stitches or loops, you might need to adjusting blind stitch tension, stitch width, or fabric positioning.
Sewing a consistent blind hem takes a little practice. The key is preparing the fabric neatly and guiding it correctly along the foot’s guide.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Sometimes, your blind stitch might not look perfect right away. Do not worry! Here are some common problems and how to fix them. These fixes often involve adjusting blind stitch tension or sewing machine settings for blind hem.
H4: Stitches Show Too Much on the Front
This is the most common problem.
- Issue 1: Stitch width is too wide. The zig-zag is reaching too far into the main fabric.
- Fix: Reduce the stitch width setting on your machine. Test on a scrap.
- Issue 2: Fabric not against the guide. You did not keep the folded edge right against the guide blade on the blind stitch presser foot. This let the zig-zag swing out too far.
- Fix: Practice guiding the fabric more carefully. The guide must stay on the edge of the fold.
- Issue 3: Tension is too tight. The top thread is pulling the bobbin thread loops too high, making them visible.
- Fix: Try lowering your upper tension setting slightly. Test on a scrap.
- Issue 4: Fabric is too fine or delicate. The stitches are easily pulling on the threads of the fabric.
- Fix: Use a finer needle and thread. Reduce stitch width and maybe tension. Hand sewing might be a better option for very sheer fabrics.
- Issue 5: You caught too much fabric in the zig-zag. The tiny bite was too big.
- Fix: Make sure your reversed hem fold creates a small, consistent ledge (about 1/4″ to 3/8″). Adjust the foot guide if needed to position the needle swing correctly for this ledge size.
H4: Hem is Not Catching the Main Fabric
You sew, but when you unfold, the hem is not attached or only attached in a few places.
- Issue 1: Stitch width is too narrow. The zig-zag is not swinging out far enough to reach the main fabric.
- Fix: Increase the stitch width setting. Test on a scrap.
- Issue 2: Fabric not against the guide. The folded edge drifted away from the guide blade. The zig-zag landed only in the hem fold.
- Fix: Guide the fabric more carefully, keeping the fold against the blade.
- Issue 3: Your reversed hem fold ledge is too small. You did not fold back enough fabric.
- Fix: Unpick, refold the hem creating a slightly wider ledge (closer to 3/8″), and re-sew.
H4: Fabric Pucks or Pulls
The hem looks wavy or gathered after sewing.
- Issue 1: Tension is too tight. The thread is pulling the fabric too much.
- Fix: Lower your upper tension setting. Test on a scrap. This is a key part of adjusting blind stitch tension.
- Issue 2: You are pulling or pushing the fabric. Let the machine feed the fabric on its own.
- Fix: Guide the fabric gently without forcing it through.
- Issue 3: Stitch length is too short for the fabric. Too many stitches are in a small area, making the fabric gather.
- Fix: Increase the stitch length slightly.
- Issue 4: Using the wrong stitch for stretchy fabric. Using the woven blind hem stitch on a knit fabric will cause it to stretch and pucker.
- Fix: Make sure you use the stretch blind hem stitch if your fabric stretches. This stitch has more flexibility. This relates to sewing blind hem on different fabrics.
H4: Skipped Stitches
The machine misses stitches along the hem.
- Issue 1: Needle is bent or dull. A damaged needle cannot pick up the bobbin thread correctly.
- Fix: Change your needle! Use a new, sharp needle appropriate for your fabric type (universal, sharp, ballpoint for knits).
- Issue 2: Threading is incorrect. The machine is not threaded properly.
- Fix: Re-thread your machine completely, upper thread and bobbin. Make sure the presser foot is up when threading the top thread.
- Issue 3: Machine needs cleaning. Lint or thread bits are blocking the bobbin area or feed dogs.
- Fix: Clean your machine thoroughly according to your manual.
- Issue 4: Using the wrong needle type for the fabric. Using a sharp needle on a knit or a ballpoint on a woven can cause skips.
- Fix: Use the correct needle type.
Troubleshooting helps you understand how the machine, settings, fabric, and foot work together. Keep practicing on scraps!
Sewing Blind Hem On Different Fabrics
The blind hem stitch works for many fabrics, but you might need to change your approach slightly depending on the fabric type. This is important when sewing blind hem on different fabrics.
H4: Light to Medium Weight Wovens (Cotton, Linen, Poplin)
- These are the easiest fabrics for a blind hem.
- Use a universal needle size 70/10 or 80/12.
- Match thread color closely.
- Start with standard blind hem stitch settings (length 2-2.5, width 2.5-3).
- Test and adjusting blind stitch tension carefully. Too much tension will cause puckering.
- Ensure your pressing is very crisp.
H4: Medium to Heavy Weight Wovens (Denim, Twill, Upholstery)
- These fabrics are thicker, which can help hide stitches, but also make pressing and folding harder.
- Use a stronger needle like a denim needle or a universal 90/14 or 100/16.
- Increase stitch length slightly (2.5-3.5 mm) to avoid too many stitches in a small area.
- Increase stitch width slightly if needed to ensure the zig-zag catches the main fabric through the thickness.
- You might need to reduce tension slightly as thicker fabrics can create more pressure under the foot.
- Press folds very firmly, using steam if your fabric allows. Use a tailor’s clapper if you have one to get crisp creases.
- The bulk of the hem might be thick under the foot. Go slowly.
H4: Knits and Stretchy Fabrics
- Using a regular blind hem stitch on knits will make the hem pop and possibly break stitches when stretched.
- Use the stretch blind hem stitch. This stitch usually incorporates more zig-zags or is designed to have more give.
- Use a ballpoint or stretch needle. These needles have rounded tips that push fabric fibers aside instead of piercing them, preventing holes and skipped stitches.
- Reduce tension. Knits do not need as much tension to hold, and too much will cause severe puckering and loss of stretch.
- Do not pull the fabric as you sew. Let the machine’s feed dogs do the work.
- Consider using a walking foot in addition to the blind hem foot if your machine allows, as this helps feed stretchy fabric evenly.
H4: Fine or Sheer Fabrics (Silk, Chiffon, Voile)
- These are the hardest fabrics for a machine blind hem because stitches show easily, and the fabric can be delicate.
- Use the finest needle possible (e.g., universal 60/8 or 70/10, or a microtex/sharp needle).
- Use fine thread.
- Reduce stitch length and width to the minimum that still catches the fabric (e.g., length 1.5-2, width 1.5-2.5).
- Significantly reduce tension.
- Test extensively on scraps! Even with careful settings, machine blind hems can be visible on very sheer fabrics. Hand sewing a blind hem might be a better choice for some sheer materials.
- Make the reversed hem fold ledge very narrow (closer to 1/4″).
- Press gently.
Knowing how to adapt your sewing machine settings for blind hem and technique for sewing blind hem on different fabrics is key to success.
Tips for a Perfect Blind Hem
Here are some extra tips to help you get the best results with your invisible hem stitch machine technique:
- Pressing is GOLD: We said it before, but it is worth repeating. Crisp, sharp folds make guiding the fabric easy and accurate.
- Test on Scraps: Always, always test your settings and technique on a piece of your exact fabric before sewing your actual project. This lets you fine-tune adjusting blind stitch tension and stitch size.
- Use Matching Thread: This is basic but vital for an “invisible” hem.
- Prepare the Raw Edge: Finish the raw edge of your fabric before folding up the hem. This prevents fraying inside the hem. You can serge it, use a zig-zag stitch, or fold it twice.
- Go Slowly and Be Consistent: Keep the folded edge right against the guide on the blind stitch presser foot at a steady pace. Do not rush.
- Master the Fabric Fold: Practice folding the fabric correctly to create that perfect little ledge for the foot guide.
- Unfold and Press Again: After sewing, unfold the hem and press it flat from the wrong side. This makes the hem lie nicely and helps the stitches sink into the fabric.
- Consider Fusible Hem Tape: For tricky fabrics or if you struggle with pressing, a thin strip of fusible hem tape placed in the first fold can help hold it in place while you press the second fold. Do not use it in the main fold you sew through, just the initial edge turn-up.
Using your blind hem stitch sewing machine can give you beautiful results with practice and attention to detail.
Other Machine Stitches for Hems
While the blind stitch is great for an invisible finish, it is not the only way to hem fabric on a machine. Here are other common machine stitches for hems:
- Straight Stitch: A simple, visible stitch. Used for topstitching hems on jeans, towels, or where the stitch is part of the design. Often used with a double fold hem.
- Zig-Zag Stitch: Can be used to finish a raw edge and hem in one step, or to attach a simple folded hem. More visible than a blind stitch.
- Serger Stitch: If you have a serger (overlocker), you can use a rolled hem or a narrow overlock stitch for finishing edges, especially on lightweight or knit fabrics. This creates a neat, secure edge but is usually visible.
- Coverstitch: Machines specifically for coverstitching create a professional-looking hem on knits, with two or three parallel lines of stitching on the top and a serger-like loop underneath. This is a visible hem.
The blind stitch is special because its goal is to not be seen, making it perfect for projects where you want a clean, seamless look.
FAQ
Here are some common questions about sewing a blind hem on a machine.
H5: Can I sew a blind hem without a blind stitch foot?
Yes, you can, but it is much harder to get good results. The special guide on the blind stitch presser foot is designed to help you perfectly position the fabric so the zig-zag stitch just catches the edge. Without the foot, you have to rely on markings on your machine’s needle plate or simply “eyeball” the position, which makes it very difficult to catch just a tiny bit of fabric consistently. If you plan to sew many blind hems, the foot is a very worthwhile investment.
H5: My blind stitch looks messy and loose. What is wrong?
This often means your tension is too loose, or the stitch length might be too long, or you are not feeding the fabric evenly. Check your adjusting blind stitch tension – try increasing the upper tension number. Make sure your fabric is gliding smoothly under the foot and you are not pulling or pushing it. Also, ensure the needle is inserted correctly and is not bent.
H5: The hem looks wavy after sewing. How can I fix this?
Wavy hems are usually caused by the machine stretching the fabric as it sews. This happens often on knit or bias-cut fabrics. Make sure you are using the correct stretch blind hem stitch for knit fabrics. Reduce tension. Do not stretch the fabric while sewing – let the machine feed it. For persistent waves on knits, sometimes a walking foot can help feed the fabric more evenly. On woven fabrics, pulling the fabric or having tension too tight can cause waves or puckers.
H5: How do I finish the raw edge of the hem before sewing the blind stitch?
You have several options for the initial raw edge before you make the main hem fold.
* Serge it: Use a serger to create a neat edge finish.
* Zig-zag it: Use a standard zig-zag stitch along the raw edge.
* Double fold: This is the method described in the tutorial – fold the raw edge up 1/4″ to 1/2″ first and press, then fold again for the main hem depth. This encloses the raw edge completely.
* Use binding: For some fabrics, you might bind the raw edge first.
Choose a method that works for your fabric type and how finished you want the inside of the hem to look.
H5: My machine has two blind hem stitches, one with a straight line and one with a wavy line before the zig-zag. Which one do I use?
The one with mostly straight lines before the zig-zag is typically for woven fabrics. The one with a wavy or more textured line before the zig-zag is usually the stretch blind hem stitch, designed for knit fabrics. Use the stitch type that matches whether your fabric is woven or stretchy.
Conclusion
Sewing a blind stitch on your blind hem stitch sewing machine is a very useful skill. It helps you make hems that are strong, neat, and almost invisible from the outside.
It might seem tricky at first with the special fabric fold and the blind stitch presser foot. But once you understand how the foot guide works and how to set your sewing machine settings for blind hem (especially adjusting blind stitch tension and stitch width), it becomes much easier.
Remember to always test your settings on a scrap piece of fabric. This lets you get everything just right for sewing blind hem on different fabrics before you sew your final project.
With a little practice using this machine blind stitch tutorial, you will be able to create professional-looking hems that are a step above a simple straight stitch. Give it a try! You will love the clean finish it gives your sewing projects.