Easy Guide: How To Gather In Sewing Perfectly Every Time

What is gathering in sewing? Gathering makes a longer piece of fabric fit onto a shorter piece. It pulls the fabric together, creating soft folds or ripples. Can you gather fabric without a sewing machine? Yes, you can gather fabric by hand. Gathering is a simple trick that adds flair, volume, and shape to clothes and home items. You can use it for skirts, sleeves, ruffles, and more.

How To Gather In Sewing
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What Is Gathering Fabric?

Imagine you have a long strip of cloth and you want to sew it onto a shorter edge. Gathering is the way you make that happen. You pull threads in the long fabric to make it bunch up. This creates pretty waves and folds. It adds fullness. Think of a gathered skirt or a ruffled edge on a pillow. Gathering makes flat fabric lively and bouncy. It is a core gathering stitch technique used in many projects.

Why Add Gathers?

Adding gathers is a simple way to change fabric shape. It serves many purposes in sewing:

Adding Fullness: Gathers make a flat piece of fabric wider and fuller, like the body of a skirt or the top of a sleeve cap.
Creating Ruffles: Gathers are key to making ruffles for decoration on edges.
Fitting Fabric: They help fit a larger piece into a smaller space, such as setting a full sleeve into an armhole.
Decoration: Gathers themselves can be a design feature.

Methods for Gathering Fabric

You can gather fabric in several ways. Some ways use your hands. Some use your sewing machine or other tools. Each method has pros and cons. The best method depends on your fabric, your project, and what tools you have.

Method 1: Hand Gathering

This is the oldest way to gather fabric. It is great for small areas. It works well on delicate fabrics. It gives you a lot of control over where the gathers fall.

Steps for Hand Gathering Fabric

Mark Your Lines: On the right side of your fabric, mark a line where you want the stitching to go. You can use chalk or a fabric marker.
Thread Your Needle: Use a strong thread. You might use a color that stands out. This makes it easy to see later. Do not make a knot at the end of the thread.
Stitch Along the Line: Start with a few small stitches to secure the thread without a knot. Sew big, even stitches along your marked line. These stitches should be about 1/4 inch long. Make sure the stitches are spaced evenly.
Add a Second Line (Optional but Recommended): Sew a second line of stitches about 1/4 inch away from the first line. Keep the stitches even. This second line makes your gathers more even and stronger. It also helps if one thread breaks. Again, do not knot the end of the thread. Leave long tails of thread at the end of each line.
Pull the Threads: Hold the fabric at one end. Gently pull the two threads on the other end. As you pull, the fabric will bunch up.
Arrange the Gathers: Slide the fabric along the threads. Spread the gathers out until they are even and fit the length you need.
Secure the Threads: Once the fabric is gathered to the correct size, tie off the thread ends to keep the gathers in place. Tie a knot around a pin placed in the fabric edge.

When to Use Hand Gathering

Small areas that need very precise gathering.
Delicate fabrics that might be damaged by machine pulling.
When you need extra control over the look of the gathers.
When you do not have a sewing machine or special tools.

Hand gathering fabric takes more time than machine methods. But it gives a soft, controlled gather that is lovely for fine clothes.

Method 2: Machine Gathering with a Basting Stitch

This is a very common method. It uses your sewing machine’s longest stitch length. It is fast and works for many fabrics. This technique uses a basting stitch for gathering.

Steps for Machine Gathering with Basting Stitch

Set Machine Stitch Length: Change your machine’s stitch length to the longest setting. This is often 5 or 6 mm.
Loosen Thread Tension: Some people loosen the top thread tension slightly. This makes it easier to pull the bobbin thread later. Test on scrap fabric first.
Sew Two Rows of Stitches: Sew two lines of stitches on the fabric where you want to gather.
- The first line should be about 1/4 inch away from the raw edge.
- The second line should be about 1/2 inch away from the raw edge (or about 1/4 inch away from the first line).
- Do not backstitch at the start or end of these lines. Leave long thread tails (about 4-6 inches) at both ends.
Identify Bobbin Threads: You will pull the bobbin threads to gather. The bobbin thread is the one coming from the bottom of your machine. On the wrong side of the fabric, you will see the bobbin threads. On the right side, you see the top threads.
Pull the Bobbin Threads: Hold the fabric at one end. Gently pull the two bobbin threads at the other end. Pulling both threads at once makes gathering easier and more even.
Arrange the Gathers: Slide the fabric along the threads. Spread the gathers out evenly until the gathered piece matches the length of the piece you are sewing it to.
Secure the Gathers: Tie off the thread ends on one side. On the other side, wrap the threads around a pin to hold the gathers in place temporarily.
Sew the Gathered Piece: Pin the gathered fabric to the flat fabric piece, matching the centers and ends. Stitch them together between the two basting stitch lines. Stitch slowly and smooth the gathers as you go.
Remove Basting Stitches: After sewing the final seam, carefully remove the basting stitches you used for gathering.

This gathering stitch technique is fast and reliable for many sewing projects. It’s especially good for how to gather a skirt.

Method 3: Using a Gathering Foot

Some sewing machines have a special foot called a gathering foot or ruffler foot. A sewing machine gathering foot makes gathering very easy and fast. The ruffler foot is similar but can make pleats or gathers at set intervals. The basic gathering foot just makes continuous gathers as you sew.

How to Use a Basic Gathering Foot

Attach the Foot: Remove your regular presser foot and attach the gathering foot according to your machine’s guide.
Adjust Settings:
- Use a longer stitch length (often 3-5 mm). The longer the stitch, the more gather you get.
- Set your machine’s tension high (often 7 or higher). Higher tension makes more gather.
- Test settings on scrap fabric to see how much gather you get. Adjust stitch length and tension until you like the look.
Sew: Place your fabric under the gathering foot. Start sewing. The foot automatically gathers the fabric as you stitch.
Controlling Gather Amount: The amount of gather depends on your stitch length and tension. Thicker fabrics gather less than thin fabrics with the same settings.
Attaching Gathered Fabric: If you are attaching the gathered fabric to another piece (like a waistband or a ruffle to a hem), you can often sew them together in one step with a gathering foot designed for this. One layer of fabric goes under the foot, the other layer goes into a slot on top of the foot. Check your foot’s instructions.

Advantages of Using a Gathering Foot

Very fast.
Produces consistent gathers once settings are right.
Can sometimes attach the gathered piece in the same step.

The sewing machine gathering foot is a great tool if you do a lot of gathering, especially for things like how to sew ruffles.

Method 4: Gathering with Elastic

This method uses elastic thread or thin elastic cord. It creates a stretchy, gathered effect. It’s often used for waistbands or cuffs. This is the gathering with elastic method.

How to Gather Using Elastic Thread

Wind Bobbin with Elastic Thread: Do not stretch the elastic thread as you wind it onto the bobbin. Wind it by hand, not using your machine’s winder.
Thread the Machine: Use regular thread in the top of your machine.
Adjust Tension: Keep the top thread tension normal or slightly higher.
Set Stitch Length: Use a medium to long stitch length (around 3-4 mm).
Sew: Sew rows of stitches where you want the gathering. The machine’s normal sewing action will stretch the elastic thread as it is sewn. When the elastic cools/relaxes, it pulls the fabric into gathers.
Finish Ends: Secure the ends of your stitching lines by backstitching or tying off threads. The elastic needs to be held tight.
Steam (Optional but Recommended): Steam the gathered area with an iron. Do not press down. Just let the steam touch the fabric. This helps the elastic shrink further and pull up more gather.

How to Gather Using Thin Elastic Cord

Mark Stitch Lines: Mark lines where you want the elastic to sit.
Sew a Casing (Optional): You can sew a narrow channel (casing) for the elastic to run through.
Attach Elastic: Stitch one end of the elastic to the fabric at the start of your marked line or casing.
Stretch and Stitch: Stretch the elastic along the marked line or inside the casing. Sew the fabric and the stretched elastic together using a zigzag stitch or a straight stitch (if using a casing). Sew with the elastic side up so you can control the stretch.
Secure Other End: Stitch the other end of the elastic when you reach the end of the gathering area.

Gathering with elastic is durable and flexible. It’s perfect for comfy waistbands or sleeve cuffs.

Method 5: Gather Fabric Using Zigzag Stitch

This is a quick method using a zigzag stitch over a cord or strong thread.

How to Gather Using Zigzag Stitch

Place Cord: Lay a strong thread or thin cord (like crochet thread or embroidery floss) on the fabric where you want the center of your gathers to be. Place it on the wrong side of the fabric.
Set Machine: Set your machine to a wide zigzag stitch. The stitch width must be wider than the cord you are using.
Sew Over Cord: Sew the zigzag stitch over the cord. Be careful not to catch the cord in your stitches. The cord should be free to move.
Pull the Cord: Hold the cord at one end. Gently pull the cord from the other end. The fabric will gather along the cord.
Arrange and Secure: Arrange the gathers evenly. Tie off the cord ends to hold the gathers in place.

This gather fabric using zigzag stitch method is fast. It’s good for medium-weight fabrics. The cord can be removed later if you want.

Method 6: Serger Gathering Technique

If you have a serger (overlocker) machine, many models can gather fabric as they sew the seam. This is a very fast way to gather and finish an edge at the same time.

How to Gather Using a Serger

Set Machine: Your serger needs to be set up for gathering. This usually involves:
- Using a longer stitch length.
- Adjusting the differential feed setting to gather. Look for a setting higher than 1 (e.g., 1.5 or 2). A higher number means more gather.
Test Settings: Test on scrap fabric to find the right settings for your desired gather amount and fabric type.
Serge the Edge: Place your fabric under the serger foot and start serging. The serger knife will trim the edge, the loopers will wrap the threads, and the feed dogs (especially the differential feed) will pull the fabric to create gathers.
Adjust Gather (If Needed): If the serger gathered too much or too little, you might be able to adjust the gather slightly by gently pulling one of the needle threads.

The serger gathering technique is very efficient. It’s great for gathering edges that will be left visible or covered by a facing, like the bottom edge of a ruffled top or a simple gathered skirt hem.

How to Sew Ruffles

Ruffles are simply gathered strips of fabric attached to an edge. You can use any of the gathering methods above to make them. The how to sew ruffles process is usually:

Cut Fabric: Cut a strip of fabric for your ruffle. It needs to be longer than the edge you will attach it to. How much longer? This depends on how full you want the ruffle. Two times the length of the edge is common. Three times gives a very full ruffle.
Finish Edges (Optional but Recommended): Finish the raw edges of the ruffle strip. You can hem the bottom edge. You can serge or zigzag the sides.
Gather the Top Edge: Use your chosen gathering method (basting stitch, gathering foot, serger, etc.) along the top raw edge of the ruffle strip.
Adjust Gathers: Pull the gathering threads/cord/elastic until the gathered ruffle strip is the same length as the edge you are attaching it to. Spread the gathers out evenly.
Pin in Place: Pin the gathered ruffle to the edge you are sewing it to. Match the raw edges. Match centers and ends. Spread pins evenly to keep gathers in place.
Sew the Ruffle: Sew the ruffle to the main fabric. If you used the basting stitch method, sew between your two lines of basting stitches. If you used a gathering foot that attaches as it gathers, you would have done this in step 3.
Finish the Seam: Finish the seam allowance (the raw edge where the ruffle is attached) using a serger, zigzag stitch, or other method to prevent fraying.
Remove Basting (If Used): Carefully remove any visible basting stitches.

Making ruffles adds a fun, decorative touch to many projects.

How to Gather a Skirt

Gathering the top edge of a skirt panel to fit a waistband or bodice is a classic sewing task. The how to gather a skirt process usually uses the machine basting stitch method or sometimes a gathering foot for speed.

Prepare Skirt Panel: Cut your skirt fabric. The top edge will be gathered. The length of this edge is much wider than your waistband or bodice edge.
Mark Center and Sides: Mark the center front, center back, and side seams on the top raw edge of the skirt panel. Also mark these points on the waistband or bodice edge you will attach the skirt to.
Sew Basting Stitches: Sew two rows of long basting stitches along the top raw edge of the skirt panel. Sew the first line 1/4 inch from the edge and the second line 1/2 inch from the edge. Do not backstitch. Leave long thread tails.
Pull Bobbin Threads: Identify the bobbin threads on the wrong side of the skirt fabric. Gently pull these two threads from one end.
Gather the Skirt: Gather the top edge of the skirt until it is the same length as the waistband or bodice edge you marked in step 2.
Distribute Gathers: Distribute the gathers evenly along the skirt edge. Use the marked points (center, sides) on both the skirt and the waistband/bodice to help you spread the gathers evenly.
Pin Skirt to Waistband/Bodice: Pin the gathered skirt edge to the waistband or bodice edge, matching raw edges and marked points. Adjust gathers as you pin to make sure they are even.
Sew the Seam: Sew the skirt to the waistband or bodice with a normal stitch length. Sew between the two lines of basting stitches. Stitch slowly, smoothing the gathers in front of your presser foot as you sew.
Finish Seam Allowance: Trim the seam allowance if needed. Finish the raw edge to prevent fraying.
Remove Basting: Carefully remove the visible basting stitches.

Gathering a skirt is simple once you master the basting stitch method.

Easing Fabric vs. Gathering Fabric

These two terms sound alike, but they are different techniques. It’s important to know the difference.

Gathering Fabric: This makes a lot of fabric fit into a much smaller space. It creates visible folds and fullness. You gather a skirt to a waistband. You gather a ruffle to an edge. You intentionally make the fabric bunch up a lot.
Easing Fabric: This makes a slightly longer piece of fabric fit smoothly onto a slightly shorter piece without creating visible gathers or folds. It’s used to subtly shape fabric, like fitting a sleeve cap into an armhole or fitting a curved seam. The extra fabric is “eased” in, spread out so you don’t see gathers.

So, easing fabric vs gathering is about the amount of fullness added and whether the folds are meant to be seen. Easing is invisible shaping. Gathering is visible fullness.

Tips for Perfect Gathers

Getting beautiful, even gathers takes a little practice. Here are some tips:

Use Two Rows of Stitches: Always sew at least two lines of basting stitches. This gives you more control and backup if a thread breaks.
Use Strong Thread: Use good quality thread that won’t snap easily when you pull it.
Pull Bobbin Threads: It is almost always easier to pull the bobbin threads. The top stitch has the knot formed by the bobbin thread pulling through, which can make it harder to pull.
Pull Gently: Pull the threads slowly and gently. If you pull too hard or too fast, the thread might break.
Distribute Evenly: Take time to spread the gathers out evenly before you sew. Use your pins and marked points as guides.
Sew Between Basting Lines: When stitching the gathered piece to another piece, sew your permanent seam between the two rows of basting stitches. This keeps your final seam neat and makes basting removal easier.
Stitch Slowly: Sew the final seam slowly over the gathers. Keep the gathers smooth and flat in front of the needle.
Test on Scrap: Always test your gathering method and settings (stitch length, tension, differential feed) on a scrap of your project fabric before sewing the real piece. Fabric type affects how it gathers.
Handle Thick Fabric: Thick fabrics are harder to gather. You might need longer stitch lengths, lower tension, or use a sturdier thread. You might also need more than two rows of gathering stitches.

Troubleshooting Common Gathering Issues

Thread Breaks: This is why sewing two rows of basting stitches is so important. If one thread breaks, you can still pull the other thread(s) on that line or switch to pulling the thread from the other stitch line. If both threads on one line break, you still have the second stitch line.
Gathers Not Even: This often happens if you don’t distribute the gathers well before sewing. Pin more often. Use your marked points (center, sides) to help spread the gathers. Pulling both bobbin threads at once helps keep them even as you gather.
Too Much or Too Little Gather: This means your initial strip of fabric was not the right length. If you need more gather, cut a wider strip next time. If you have too much, you might be able to trim the raw edge slightly after gathering and before sewing.
Hard to Pull Threads: Check your stitch length (make it longer). Check your tension (loosen it slightly). Make sure you did not accidentally backstitch at the start or end. Ensure you are pulling the bobbin threads.

Choosing the Right Gathering Method

The best method for you depends on a few things:

Method	Best For	Fabric Type	Speed	Ease of Control	Tools Needed	Notes
Hand Gathering	Small areas, delicate fabrics	Any, great for fine	Slow	High	Needle, Thread	Gives soft, precise gathers. More time-consuming.
Machine Basting Stitch	Most common use, general projects	Most fabrics	Medium	Good	Sewing Machine, Thread	Reliable. Need to pull threads manually.
Sewing Machine Gathering Foot	Lots of gathering, consistent look	Light to medium	Fast	Medium	Sewing Machine, Gathering Foot	Speed comes at the cost of some fine control over placement.
Gathering with Elastic	Stretchy areas (waists, cuffs)	Light to medium knit	Medium	Varies	Sewing Machine, Elastic Thread/Cord	Creates a flexible gather.
Gather Fabric Using Zigzag	Medium-weight fabrics	Medium	Fast	Good	Sewing Machine, Cord/Thread to zigzag over	Cord needs to be free to pull.
Serger Gathering Technique	Edge gathering, finishing edge	Most fabrics	Very Fast	Low-Medium	Serger Machine	Gathers and finishes edge in one step. Control is through settings.

For how to gather a skirt, the machine basting method is usually the easiest and most common. For how to sew ruffles, the gathering foot or machine basting works well depending on how many ruffles you need.

Putting It All Together: Attaching a Gathered Ruffle

Let’s walk through a simple example using the machine basting method to attach a gathered ruffle to a flat piece of fabric.

Prepare Ruffle: Cut your ruffle strip (e.g., 2 times the length of where it will go). Finish the hem edge if needed.
Basting Stitches: Sew two rows of long basting stitches along the top raw edge of the ruffle strip, 1/4″ and 1/2″ from the edge. Leave long thread tails.
Prepare Main Piece: Mark the center and ends of the edge where the ruffle will be attached.
Gather Ruffle: Pull the two bobbin threads of the basting stitches on the ruffle until the ruffle strip is the same length as the edge on the main piece.
Distribute Gathers: Spread the gathers evenly along the ruffle strip. Use the length of the main edge as your guide.
Pin Ruffle to Main Piece: Place the ruffle on the main piece, right sides together, matching the raw edges. Pin in place, matching center points and ends. Add lots of pins to keep the gathers from shifting.
Sew: Set your sewing machine to a regular stitch length (around 2.5 mm). Sew along the seam line, stitching between the two lines of basting stitches you made earlier. Stitch slowly, guiding the gathered fabric flat as it goes under the foot.
Finish Seam: Finish the raw seam allowance edge to prevent fraying. You can zigzag stitch it or use a serger.
Remove Basting: Carefully pull out the two lines of basting stitches. They should come out easily since you didn’t sew over them.
Press: Press the seam allowance up or down away from the ruffle, as your pattern directs.

You have now successfully gathered and attached a ruffle! This basic process is used for many projects needing gathered fabric.

FAQs About Gathering in Sewing

Here are some common questions about gathering fabric.

Q: What is the best stitch length for gathering?
A: For machine basting to gather, use your longest stitch length (usually 5 mm or 6 mm). This makes the stitches easy to pull. If using a gathering foot or serger, check your machine’s instructions or test on scrap fabric. Longer stitches usually make more gather.

Q: Can I use just one line of basting stitches?
A: You can, but it is risky. If that single thread breaks, you lose all your gathering stitches. Using two lines gives you a backup and helps make the gathers more even.

Q: My gathering thread keeps breaking. What can I do?
A: Use stronger thread. Pull more gently and slowly. Make sure your stitch length is long enough. Check your tension; if it’s too tight, it can weaken the thread. Ensure you are pulling the bobbin threads, not the top ones.

Q: How much fabric do I need for a ruffle?
A: For a nice ruffle, you usually need 1.5 to 3 times the length of the edge you are gathering it onto. 2 times is a good starting point for many fabrics. More fabric means a fuller ruffle.

Q: Do I need a special foot to gather on my sewing machine?
A: No, you do not need a special foot. You can gather fabric easily using the machine basting stitch method with your regular presser foot. A gathering foot just makes the process faster.

Q: What is the difference between easing and gathering?
A: Easing makes a slightly longer edge fit a slightly shorter one without visible folds, for shaping. Gathering makes a much longer edge fit a shorter one with visible folds, for fullness.

Q: Should I gather before or after sewing seams?
A: You usually gather the raw edge of a fabric piece before you sew that gathered edge to another piece. For example, you gather the top edge of a skirt panel, then sew that gathered edge to the waistband.

Q: How do I gather thick fabric?
A: Thick fabric is harder to gather. Use stronger thread. Use a longer stitch length. You might need three rows of basting stitches instead of two. It might also help to slightly loosen the top tension.

Mastering gathering is a great skill in sewing. It opens up many possibilities for adding style and shape to your projects. With these methods, you can gather fabric perfectly every time!