Precision Cutting: How To Cut Out Sewing Patterns Guide

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Precision Cutting: How To Cut Out Sewing Patterns Guide

Cutting out sewing patterns is a vital step in making clothes and other fabric items. It’s the part where your flat pattern pieces become the shapes you will sew together. Learning how to cut out sewing patterns carefully and correctly is key to a successful project. When you cut precisely, your pieces fit together better, and your finished item looks much neater. This guide will walk you through each step to help you cut your fabric with confidence and accuracy.

Getting Ready to Cut

Before you even think about cutting, you need to get your space and tools ready. Good preparation makes the cutting process much smoother and helps you avoid mistakes.

Clearing Your Workspace

You need a large, flat area to lay out your fabric and pattern pieces. The floor works well for big pieces. A large table is also good.

• Clear the area completely. Remove anything that could get in the way or snag the fabric.
• Make sure the surface is smooth. Bumps or dirt under your fabric can make cutting hard.
• Have enough room to walk around your cutting area. This helps you cut from different angles easily.
• Ensure the light is good. You need to see the pattern lines and fabric clearly.

Gathering Essential Tools

Having the right tools ready before you start saves time and stress.

• Your Pattern: Pressed and ready to use.
• Fabric: Washed, dried, and pressed according to its type.
• Shears: Good quality fabric scissors.
• Rotary Cutter (Optional but Recommended): A sharp rotary cutter is great for some fabrics.
• Cutting Mat (If using a rotary cutter): A must-have to protect your surface and keep your blade sharp.
• Pattern Weights: Or lots of pins for securing the pattern.
• Fabric Markers or Chalk: For transferring pattern markings.
• Notchers or Small Scissors: For cutting notches.
• Measuring Tape or Ruler: To check grainlines and measurements.

Readying Your Pattern

The paper pattern needs a little attention before it meets the fabric.

Smoothing the Pattern

Patterns often come folded. Folds can make the pattern lie unevenly on the fabric.

• Use a dry iron on a low setting to gently press the pattern paper. Be careful not to use steam, which can warp the paper.
• If the pattern is very old or delicate, you might place a thin cloth between the iron and the paper.
• A smooth pattern lies flat, which is vital for precise Laying out sewing pattern pieces.

Selecting Your Size

Most patterns come in multiple sizes. Choose the size that matches your measurements best.

• Look at the body measurement chart on the pattern envelope.
• Measure yourself correctly (bust, waist, hips).
• Circle the cutting lines for your size on the pattern paper. Using a highlighter makes them easy to see.

Cutting or Tracing Your Pattern

You have two main choices: cut the size directly from the pattern sheet, or trace it onto another material. Tracing sewing patterns instead of cutting the original is a great idea for several reasons.

• Keeps original intact: You can use the pattern for different sizes later or keep it neat for storage.
• Allows adjustments: It’s easier to make fitting changes on your traced copy.
• Good for fragile patterns: Protects vintage or delicate patterns.

You can trace patterns onto pattern paper, Swedish tracing paper, or even thin plastic sheeting. Use a pencil or fine marker. Be sure to copy all pattern markings too. If you choose to cut the original, cut carefully along the size line you marked.

Preparing Your Fabric

Proper fabric prep is just as important as pattern prep.

Pre-Washing and Pressing

Most fabrics shrink the first time they are washed. Wash and dry your fabric the way you plan to wash the finished item.

• This shrinks the fabric before you cut it. Your finished item will keep its size better.
• Press the fabric well after drying. A smooth, wrinkle-free fabric is much easier to cut accurately.
• Pay attention to the fabric type. Some need low heat, some high. Some need steam, some do not.

Interpreting the Grainline

Every woven fabric has a grainline. It’s the direction the threads run. One direction, the lengthwise grain, usually has less stretch. The crosswise grain has a little more stretch. The bias is diagonal to the grain and has the most stretch.

• The pattern piece will have a line or arrow showing the Cutting fabric along grainline. This arrow must run parallel to the lengthwise threads of your fabric.
• Finding the lengthwise grain is usually easy. It runs parallel to the selvage (the finished edge of the fabric).

Laying Out Sewing Pattern Pieces

This step needs care and planning. How you place the pattern pieces on the fabric affects how the finished garment hangs and fits. It also helps you use your fabric wisely.

Folding Your Fabric

Patterns often tell you how to fold the fabric. Common folds include:

• Folded Lengthwise: The most common. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, bringing the selvages together. The fold is parallel to the selvage. Many pattern pieces are placed on this fold.
• Folded Crosswise: Folding the fabric in half widthwise.
• Single Layer: Sometimes you need to cut fabric in a single layer, not folded.

Make sure the fabric edges are aligned neatly. Press the fold lightly if needed to make a crisp edge, but avoid pressing a hard crease into the middle of the fabric if you are cutting on the fold.

Placing the Pattern Pieces

Look at the pattern’s layout guide. This diagram shows you how to place all the pieces on your fabric to save space.

• Start with the largest pieces.
• Place pieces on the fold if the pattern says to. The edge marked “place on fold” goes right on the fabric fold.
• Make sure every piece fits before you secure any of them.
• Think about the fabric’s direction (like a nap or pattern). All pieces need to run the same way if your fabric has an up and down.

Aligning with the Grainline

This is a critical step for Cutting fabric along grainline. The grainline on the pattern piece must be perfectly parallel to the lengthwise grain of the fabric (or the selvage).

• Find the grainline arrow on your pattern piece.
• Choose a point on the grainline arrow. Measure the distance from this point to the nearest selvage or the fabric fold.
• Move along the grainline arrow to another point. Measure the distance from this point to the same selvage or fold.
• Adjust the pattern piece until the measurement is the same at both points. This ensures the grainline is straight on the fabric. Use a ruler to check. This is essential for the finished item to hang correctly.

Securing Pattern Pieces to Fabric

Once a pattern piece is in the right place and aligned to the grainline, you need to keep it there. You have two main methods: pins or weights.

• Using pins: Place pins within the pattern piece area, pointing inwards. Pin often enough to keep the pattern flat, especially around curves. Don’t pin too close to the cutting line.
• Using pattern weights for cutting: Place weights on top of the pattern pieces, especially around the edges and key points like corners and curves. Weights hold the pattern flat without distorting the fabric like pins sometimes can. This is often preferred when using a rotary cutter on sewing patterns as pins can get in the way of the rotary blade.

You can also use both! Pins in some tricky spots, weights on larger, flat areas.

The Art of Cutting

Now comes the actual cutting. Precision is key here. Slow and steady wins the race.

Selecting Your Cutting Tools

Choosing the right tool for the job makes a big difference.

• Best scissors for cutting fabric: You need sharp shears made only for fabric. Paper dulls fabric scissors quickly. Fabric shears have one blade that lies flat on the table, which helps you cut smoothly. Keep them sharp!
• Using a rotary cutter on sewing patterns: A rotary cutter has a sharp circular blade that spins. It’s excellent for cutting straight lines and curves, especially on multiple layers or with pattern weights. It’s faster than scissors for many cuts. Always use a rotary cutter with a cutting mat.
• Cutting mat for patterns: A self-healing cutting mat is essential when using a rotary cutter. It protects your table and keeps the blade sharp. Mats come in different sizes; choose one large enough for your biggest pattern pieces.

Cutting Techniques

How you use your tool affects the cut edge.

• With Scissors:
  • Keep the long blade of your shears flat on the table surface.
  • Use long, smooth strokes when cutting straight lines. Avoid snipping with the tip.
  • For curves, use shorter strokes, pivoting the fabric slightly as you cut.
  • Cut right on the cutting line, not inside or outside it.
• With a Rotary Cutter:
  • Use a ruler or the edge of the pattern piece as a guide for straight lines.
  • Use weights to hold the pattern firm.
  • Keep your fingers away from the blade! Rotary cutters are very sharp.
  • Use a fresh blade often for clean cuts. A dull blade can chew the fabric.
  • Cut against the cutting mat.

Cutting Notches

Notches are V-shapes, diamonds, or lines on the pattern edges. They help you match pieces correctly when sewing. Cutting notches on fabric patterns is important for lining up seams.

• Some patterns show notches as V-shapes sticking out from the cutting line.
• Some show them as V-shapes or diamonds going into the pattern piece (away from the cutting line).
• The easiest way to cut notches is to snip inward about 1/4 inch (6mm) using the tips of your fabric shears or small, sharp scissors. Cut from the fabric edge towards the pattern line.
• If the pattern shows V-shapes sticking out, you can cut around them carefully. Or, snip inward at the point of the V.
• A special tool called a pattern notcher cuts a small notch into the fabric edge.

Make sure you cut all the notches shown on the pattern pieces. Double notches (two lines) or triple notches (three lines) usually show the back seams, while single notches show the front.

Cutting Multiple Layers of Fabric

Many patterns call for cutting fabric on the fold or cutting two identical pieces at once. This means you will be Cutting multiple layers of fabric.

• Ensure the layers are stacked neatly and smoothed flat. No wrinkles between layers.
• Align the fabric edges precisely, especially the fold or selvages.
• Use enough pattern weights or pins to secure the pattern through all layers. If pins are used, pin through all layers near the edges.
• Rotary cutters are excellent for cutting multiple layers neatly.
• If using scissors, lift the fabric as little as possible to avoid shifting the layers. Keep the lower blade on the cutting surface.

Be aware that very thick or slippery fabrics might be hard to cut accurately in multiple layers. You might get better results cutting these types in a single layer.

What Happens After Cutting

You’ve cut out all your pieces. Now what?

Keeping Pieces Together

It’s easy for cut fabric pieces to get mixed up.

• Gather all pieces for one garment part (like a sleeve or bodice front).
• Fold them together or loosely stack them.
• You might write the pattern piece name on a small piece of masking tape and stick it to the fabric piece. This is very helpful for complex patterns.

Transferring Markings

Patterns have symbols for darts, pleats, buttonholes, pocket placements, etc. These markings need to be transferred from the pattern to the fabric.

• Use tailor’s chalk, washable fabric markers, or tailor’s tacks.
• Mark the wrong side of the fabric.
• Transfer all necessary markings. Darts need points and legs marked. Pleats need lines. Buttonholes need start/end points.
• Marking helps you sew the pieces together correctly later.

Tips for Achieving Precision

Good cutting habits lead to better results.

• Go Slow: Don’t rush. Take your time placing pattern pieces and cutting carefully.
• Cut from the right angle: Position yourself so you can easily see the cutting line and keep your tool steady.
• Keep Tools Sharp: Sharp scissors and rotary blades cut fabric cleanly without snagging or chewing. This makes a big difference in your finished edges.
• Double Check Grainline: Always check the grainline alignment before securing and cutting.
• Walk Around: If cutting on a large table or the floor, walk around the table/fabric instead of trying to reach across it. Reaching makes cuts wobbly.

Navigating Cutting Challenges

Some fabrics or pattern pieces can be tricky.

• Slippery Fabrics: Fabrics like silk or rayon can slide around.
  • Use more weights than usual.
  • Place tissue paper or newsprint under the fabric to give it grip.
  • Cut in a single layer if needed.
  • Use a very sharp rotary cutter.
• Large Pieces: Coat fronts, skirt panels, etc., can be unwieldy.
  • Clear a large floor space.
  • Fold the fabric carefully, keeping edges aligned.
  • Use plenty of weights or pins to keep everything flat.
  • Cut carefully, moving around the piece.
• Bulky Fabrics: Tweed, thick fleece, etc., can be hard to cut in multiple layers.
  • Use heavy-duty fabric shears.
  • Cut in a single layer if the fabric is too thick for your tools or makes layers shift.

Illuminating Cutting Tools

Let’s take a closer look at the tools that make cutting precise.

The Workhorse: Fabric Shears

• What they are: Scissors designed specifically for cutting fabric.
• Why use them: Their blades are ground differently than paper scissors. They stay sharp longer on fabric. One blade usually rests flat.
• Types: Various sizes exist. 8-inch (20cm) shears are standard for general cutting. Smaller scissors (5-6 inch or 12-15cm) are good for curves and details. Snips are tiny scissors for threads and notches.
• Care: Keep them only for fabric. Wipe them clean. Store them safely to protect the blades. Sharpen them when they feel dull.

The Modern Marvel: Rotary Cutter

• What it is: A handle with a circular blade that rotates.
• Why use it: Great for straight lines with a ruler. Faster for many cuts. Excellent for cutting on a mat. Good for multiple layers.
• Blade Sizes: Common sizes are 45mm (general use) and 60mm (thicker fabrics or more layers). Smaller sizes (18mm, 28mm) are for tight curves.
• Safety: Blades are extremely sharp. Always close the blade guard when not cutting. Cut away from your body. Keep fingers clear. Always use a cutting mat.
• Blade Care: Change blades when they feel dull or skip threads. Sharp blades are safer and cut better.

The Foundation: Cutting Mat

• What it is: A special mat with a surface that “heals” after being cut.
• Why use it: Protects your table from rotary blades. Provides a non-slip surface. Often has grid lines for measuring and squaring.
• Types: Come in various sizes. Choose the largest size you can manage.
• Care: Store flat. Avoid extreme heat or cold. Do not fold.

The Stabilizers: Pattern Weights

• What they are: Heavy objects placed on pattern pieces to hold them down.
• Why use them: Prevent fabric distortion that pins can cause. Quick to use. Good for delicate or bulky fabrics. Ideal when Using pattern weights for cutting with a rotary cutter.
• Types: Can be bought (metal washers, specialized pattern weights) or homemade (cans, heavy objects).
• How to use: Place them along the edges and curves of the pattern piece. Use enough weights to keep the pattern from shifting.

Here is a quick look at tool uses:

Tool	Best Use Cases	Notes
Fabric Shears	All-around cutting, curves, small details	Must be sharp, only for fabric
Rotary Cutter	Straight lines, multiple layers, fast cuts	Needs a mat, very sharp, use ruler for lines
Cutting Mat	Under rotary cutter, protects surface	Self-healing, essential for rotary cutting
Pattern Weights	Holding pattern pieces, good with rotary cutter	Prevents pinholes, quick to adjust placement
Pins	Securing pattern, good for small pieces	Can distort fabric, avoid near cutting line
Notcher	Cutting notches quickly on fabric edge	Ensures consistent notch size

Frequently Asked Questions About Cutting Patterns

h5 What is the grainline on a sewing pattern piece?

The grainline is a marked line or arrow on a pattern piece. It shows how that piece should be placed on the fabric so the line is parallel to the selvage (finished edge) of the fabric. This makes sure the piece is cut on the straight grain, which helps the garment hang and wear correctly.

h5 Can I use paper scissors to cut fabric patterns?

No, you should not use paper scissors to cut fabric. Cutting paper will quickly dull the blades of fabric scissors. Dull fabric scissors will snag and chew your fabric, not cut it cleanly. Keep separate scissors for paper patterns and fabric.

h5 Should I wash my fabric before cutting?

Yes, you absolutely should wash your fabric before cutting it. Most fabrics shrink when first washed and dried. Pre-washing lets the fabric shrink before you cut it, so your finished project will stay the correct size after you wash it.

h5 How do I secure pattern pieces to slippery fabric?

Slippery fabrics like silk or rayon are tricky. Use more pattern weights than usual. You can also place a layer of tissue paper or newsprint under the fabric before laying out the pattern; this gives the fabric something to grip. Sometimes, cutting slippery fabrics in a single layer is easier than cutting on the fold or multiple layers.

h5 Is it better to use pins or weights to hold down the pattern?

Both pins and weights work for Securing pattern pieces to fabric. Weights are often preferred because they don’t make holes in the fabric and don’t distort the fabric by pulling. Weights are also better when Using a rotary cutter on sewing patterns as pins can get in the way. Pins are good for small pieces or areas where weights might not sit well, like curves. Many people use a mix of both.

h5 How do I cut notches correctly?

Notches are small marks on the edge of the pattern pieces that help align seams. The easiest way to cut them is to make small snips (about 1/4 inch or 6mm) straight in from the fabric edge at the notch markings. Alternatively, you can carefully cut around the notch shapes shown on the pattern, or use a special pattern notcher tool. Make sure you cut all the notches!

h5 Can I cut several layers of fabric at once?

Yes, you can cut Cutting multiple layers of fabric at once, especially if the fabric is not too thick or slippery. Make sure the layers are neatly stacked and smooth. Secure the pattern well through all layers using plenty of weights or pins. A sharp rotary cutter works very well for cutting multiple layers. If using scissors, be extra careful to keep the lower blade flat and the layers from shifting.

Conclusion

Cutting out sewing patterns is the first step where your design takes shape. It’s not just about cutting along lines; it’s about precision, patience, and setting yourself up for sewing success. By preparing your space, tools, pattern, and fabric, aligning pieces carefully to the grainline, and using your chosen cutting tools correctly, you lay the foundation for a beautifully made garment. Take your time, cut accurately, and you’ll find that the sewing process that follows is much more enjoyable and leads to better results. Happy cutting!