How To Cut A Sewing Pattern With Confidence And Accuracy

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How To Cut A Sewing Pattern With Confidence And Accuracy

Getting clothes that fit well starts with cutting your fabric right. A little bit of care here makes a big difference in your finished project. Cutting a sewing pattern can feel tricky, but with the right tools and steps, you can do it well. This guide will walk you through each part, helping you cut with confidence every time.

Why Cutting Matters So Much

Why spend time getting your cutting just right? Simple. How you cut is the first step in making clothes that fit. If you cut a piece too big or too small, or if you cut it crooked, your project will likely have problems later. It might not hang right, or seams might not match up. Good cutting helps everything else fall into place easily. It saves you time and frustration later on. Think of it as building a good foundation.

Getting Your Tools Ready

What tools do you need to cut a sewing pattern well? You need a few key items to make cutting easy and correct. The main tools are good scissors made for fabric or a special rotary tool.

Picking the Right Cutting Tools

You have two main choices for cutting fabric:

• Fabric shears: These are scissors made just for fabric. Fabric shears are very sharp and cut smoothly without chewing or pushing the fabric. You must never use these scissors on paper, as paper dulls the blades quickly. Keep them just for fabric.
• Rotary cutter: This is a tool with a round, spinning blade. A Rotary cutter is great for cutting straight lines or gentle curves when you use it with a cutting mat. It can cut through several layers of fabric at once.

Using a Special Mat

When you use a Rotary cutter, you need a Cutting mat. This mat protects your table and keeps your blade sharp. A Cutting mat is usually self-healing, meaning the cuts you make close up. They come in different sizes. Pick one big enough for the pieces you plan to cut.

Other Helpful Items

• Pins or Pattern Weights: You need something to hold your paper pattern pieces firmly on the fabric. Pinning pattern to fabric is a common way to do this. You can use simple sewing pins. Place them often enough to keep the pattern from shifting. Pattern weights are another option. These are heavy objects you place on the pattern pieces instead of pins. Pattern weights are good for fabrics that might snag or for speeding up the process.
• Measuring tape or ruler: Useful for checking lines and distances.
• Fabric chalk or pen: To mark the fabric if needed.

Preparing Your Fabric

Before you even get near your pattern pieces, you need to get your fabric ready. This step is very important.

Washing and Pressing

Why prepare fabric? Fabric often shrinks the first time it’s washed. It’s best to wash your fabric the way you plan to wash the finished garment. This way, any shrinking happens before you cut. Then, press the fabric smooth. Wrinkles or folds can lead to inaccurate cutting. A smooth, flat surface is key for good results.

Laying Out the Fabric

How should you lay out your fabric for cutting? Most patterns show you how to fold your fabric. Often, you fold it in half lengthwise, lining up the two Selvage edges. The Selvage is the finished edge of the fabric that doesn’t fray. It runs along the length of the fabric. Folding lets you cut two mirror-image pieces at once (like for sleeves or pants legs). Sometimes, you lay the fabric out in a single layer. Always follow the pattern instructions for how to fold or lay out the fabric.

Placing Your Pattern Pieces Correctly

This step is super important for how your finished clothes will look and fit. Pattern pieces have special marks that tell you how to put them on the fabric.

Grasping the Grainline

What is the Grainline? Every woven fabric has a Grainline. This is the direction the threads run lengthwise in the fabric. On a pattern piece, you’ll see a long line with arrows on each end. This line is the Grainline. It must be placed perfectly straight along the lengthwise threads of your fabric.

Why does the Grainline matter? Lining up the Grainline keeps your clothes from twisting or stretching in weird ways. It helps the fabric hang correctly. Use a ruler to check that the Grainline arrow is the same distance from the Selvage (or folded edge) at both ends. This makes sure it’s straight.

Considering Fabric Nap

What is Fabric nap? Some fabrics have a Fabric nap. This means the fibers lie in one direction. Think of velvet, corduroy, or even some plain fabrics that feel different when you rub them up or down. If you cut pieces with the nap going in different directions, they will look different in color or shine when sewn together.

Patterns will tell you if you need to cut all pieces with the nap going the same way. This might mean you can’t flip pattern pieces upside down to save fabric. Pay close attention to the pattern’s layout guide if your fabric has a Fabric nap.

Reading Pattern Symbols

Pattern pieces have other symbols too.

• Place on Fold line: A bracketed line means this edge must be placed exactly on the folded edge of your fabric.
• Cutting lines: These are the lines you follow to cut out the fabric piece. There are often multiple Cutting lines for different sizes. Make sure you know which size you are cutting!
• Notches: These are small marks on the cutting edge. They help you match pieces together later when sewing.
• Dots or Triangles: These are also matching points or placement guides for things like darts or pockets.

Take time to find all these marks on your pattern pieces before you start placing them.

Keeping the Pattern Still

Once your fabric is laid out and your pattern pieces are placed according to the Grainline and Fabric nap, you need to secure them.

The Art of Pinning Pattern to Fabric

Pinning pattern to fabric holds the pattern piece in place so it doesn’t move while you cut.

• Use sharp, fine pins. Dull pins can damage delicate fabric.
• Place pins inside the Cutting lines, so your scissors don’t hit them.
• Pin more often on curves or points to keep the pattern edges smooth.
• Place pins roughly flat against the fabric surface to avoid lifting the pattern.
• When working on a fold, pin through both layers and the pattern.
• When cutting on a single layer, make sure pins go through the pattern and just the single layer of fabric.

Pinning takes time, but it helps ensure accurate cuts, especially if you are using Fabric shears.

Using Pattern Weights

Pattern weights are an alternative to pins. They are heavy items placed on top of the pattern piece.

• They are good for slippery fabrics like silk or delicate ones like lace that pins might damage.
• They are faster to use than pins, especially for simple shapes.
• You still need to be careful that the pattern doesn’t shift between the weights.
• Place weights close to the edges you are about to cut, especially on curves or corners.
• You can buy special Pattern weights or use items from around your house like large washers, clean stones, or even cans of food (though flat weights work best).

Whether you choose Pinning pattern to fabric or Pattern weights, the goal is the same: keep that paper pattern piece from moving while you cut.

Making the Cut: The Cutting Process

Now it’s time to cut! This is where you follow those Cutting lines you picked out earlier.

Following the Lines

How do I follow the Cutting lines? Focus only on the Cutting lines for your size. If there are lines for other sizes close by, it can be confusing. Follow the line exactly. Don’t cut inside it or outside it.

Using Fabric Shears

If you are using Fabric shears:

• Hold the fabric flat on the table. Don’t lift it while you cut. Lifting can distort the fabric.
• Open the blades wide and make long, smooth cuts. Try not to “chew” the fabric with tiny snips.
• Keep the lower blade of your scissors on the table surface as much as possible. This helps keep the fabric flat.
• When cutting curves, use shorter snips, guiding the fabric smoothly as you go.
• Cut notches (the small marks on the edge) either outwards as little triangles or inwards as small snips, as shown on the pattern. Be careful not to cut past the mark!

Using a Rotary Cutter

If you are using a Rotary cutter:

• You must use a Cutting mat underneath your fabric.
• Use a heavy clear ruler or straight edge to guide your Rotary cutter for straight lines. Press down firmly on the ruler to keep it from slipping.
• For curves, you can freehand with the Rotary cutter or use curved rulers if you have them.
• Apply firm, even pressure as you roll the cutter along the line.
• Always close or lock the blade on your Rotary cutter immediately after each cut for safety.
• Keep your fingers well away from the path of the blade.

A Rotary cutter is often faster, especially for straight cuts or multiple layers. Fabric shears give you more control for tight curves or detailed areas. Many sewers use both tools for different parts of a pattern.

Cutting Specific Shapes and Notches

Cutting isn’t just following a line. You need to pay attention to special parts.

Handling Curves

When cutting curves, whether with shears or a Rotary cutter, go slowly. For inner curves (like armholes), it helps to make small cuts into the seam allowance after you cut the main line. Don’t cut through the line! These clips help the curve lie flat when you sew it. For outer curves (like necklines), you might clip small wedges out of the seam allowance after cutting the line.

Cutting Corners

Corners should be cut sharply. If it’s an outside corner, cut right to the point. If it’s an inside corner, you might need to snip into the point of the seam allowance (again, not through the line) to help it turn out well later.

Marking Notches and Dots

As you cut, you’ll come across notches and other marks like dots or triangles.

• Notches: These are usually small marks on the edge of the pattern piece. Cut these notches carefully. They are essential for matching pieces later. Cut them as the pattern shows (inward snips or outward triangles).
• Dots/Triangles: Don’t cut these! Mark their location on the fabric using tailor’s chalk, a fabric pen, or tailor’s tacks. Mark them on the wrong side of the fabric. These marks tell you where to put pockets, darts, or other details.

Checking Your Work

Once you finish cutting a piece, take a moment. Compare the fabric piece to the paper pattern piece. Did you cut right on the line? Are the notches and other marks transferred? Check before you move on to the next piece. This helps catch mistakes early.

A Different Path: Tracing Patterns

Why trace a pattern? Sometimes, people don’t want to cut their paper pattern. Maybe they want to use it again for a different size, or they bought a vintage pattern they want to keep nice. In this case, you can use the Tracing pattern method.

• Lay down a layer of tracing paper (or pattern paper).
• Place your pattern piece on top.
• Use a tracing wheel or pen to trace all the lines and marks for your size onto the tracing paper.
• Cut out the traced pattern piece from the tracing paper.
• Then, use this traced paper piece to cut your fabric, following all the steps above (place on fabric, secure, cut).

Tracing pattern takes extra time upfront, but it saves your original pattern. It also lets you make small fit changes easily on the traced copy.

Tips for Getting Accurate Cuts

Here are some extra tips to help you cut your pattern pieces perfectly:

• Use sharp tools: Dull scissors or a dull Rotary cutter blade will chew your fabric and make inaccurate cuts. Change your blade or sharpen your shears often.
• Cut on a flat surface: A large table is best. Don’t try to cut fabric on your lap or on a bed.
• Take your time: Don’t rush! Slow, steady cuts are better than fast, messy ones.
• Cut around the pattern: Some people find it easier to cut with the bulk of the fabric to their left (if right-handed) or right (if left-handed), moving around the pattern piece.
• Keep fabric flat: As you cut, keep the fabric laying flat on the table. Don’t let it hang off the edge.
• Watch the Selvage: When placing pattern pieces using the Grainline, always measure from the Selvage or the fold to make sure the grainline is perfectly straight.
• Single layer vs. folded: If cutting a single layer, make sure the pattern piece is placed on the correct side of the fabric (right or wrong side, as instructed). If folded, make sure the fold is smooth and the edges (especially the Selvage) are lined up if needed.
• Practice: The more you cut, the better you’ll get! Start with simpler patterns and fabrics.

Handling Tricky Fabrics

Some fabrics are harder to cut than others.

• Slippery fabrics: Silk, satin, or rayon can slide around. Use lots of pins or Pattern weights. You can also lay the fabric on top of another non-slip fabric (like cotton muslin) to help hold it still.
• Bulky fabrics: Fleece or fake fur can be hard to see the lines on. Mark your Cutting lines clearly. Use sharp Fabric shears.
• Sheer fabrics: Organza or chiffon are see-through. You might trace the pattern lines onto the fabric itself with a fine marker if pinning is difficult. Use very sharp scissors or a new Rotary cutter blade.
• Knits: Knit fabrics can stretch. Lay them out flat and don’t stretch them as you cut. Using a Rotary cutter is often easier on knits than shears.

Common Cutting Issues and How to Fix Them

What if your cuts are wavy?
This often happens if your cutting tool isn’t sharp, or you’re trying to cut too fast. It can also happen if you lift the fabric while cutting with shears. Sharpen your tools and practice making smooth, continuous cuts while keeping the fabric flat.

What if the pattern shifts?
You didn’t use enough pins or Pattern weights. Go back and secure the pattern piece more firmly before cutting.

What if I accidentally snip into the pattern piece?
If it’s just a small snip near the edge you’re cutting, it might be okay. If it’s a larger cut through the middle or a crucial mark, you might need to Tracing pattern onto new paper and recut that specific piece.

What if I cut the wrong size line?
This is a common mistake! If you cut a size smaller than you wanted, you can’t add fabric back easily. If you cut a size larger, you might be able to trim it down, but it’s hard to be perfectly accurate. Sometimes, you might need to recut the piece if you have enough fabric. Always double-check the line before you cut.

Getting Ready to Sew

Once all your pieces are cut, keep them tidy. You can carefully unpin the pattern pieces, but leave them pinned to the fabric if your pattern suggests it for tricky shapes. Some people like to put the fabric pieces and their matching paper pattern pieces together in a bag or box so they don’t get mixed up. Make sure all your notches and marks are clear. Now you are ready for the next step: sewing!

Cutting accurately might take a little more time at the start, but it pays off hugely when you start sewing. With sharp tools, careful placement following the Grainline and Fabric nap, securing your pattern well (whether Pinning pattern to fabric or using Pattern weights), and following the Cutting lines with care (with Fabric shears or a Rotary cutter and Cutting mat), you are setting yourself up for sewing success. Don’t forget about the Tracing pattern option if you want to save your original patterns. Happy cutting!

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between fabric shears and regular scissors?

Fabric shears are made only for fabric. They have very sharp blades that glide through fabric smoothly. Regular scissors are made for paper and other things. Using them on fabric can chew the edges and make cutting hard. Using fabric shears on paper will make them dull quickly, so they won’t cut fabric well anymore.

Can I use any cutting mat with a rotary cutter?

Yes, you need a special Cutting mat that is self-healing. This kind of mat won’t be ruined by the blade and helps keep the blade sharp. Don’t use a Rotary cutter directly on a table surface or a mat not made for cutting.

How do I know which cutting line to follow?

Sewing patterns have lines for different sizes. Each size usually has its own line style (like dashed, dotted, or solid) or color. Find the line that matches the size you want to make and follow only that line. It helps to trace your size line with a bright marker on the paper pattern before you cut.

What if my fabric has a plaid or stripe?

Cutting fabric with plaids or stripes needs extra care. You might need extra fabric to match the lines up at the seams. Follow the pattern layout guide very closely. Sometimes, the pattern pieces might tell you to place them in a single layer, not on a fold, so you can match the pattern perfectly. This is related to thinking about the Fabric nap, but it’s about the visual design of the fabric.

Is it better to use pins or weights?

It depends on the fabric and your preference. Pinning pattern to fabric is good for most fabrics and helps hold small pieces well. Pattern weights are faster and better for delicate or slippery fabrics. Try both methods and see which one you like best for your project.

What is the selvage edge?

The Selvage edge is the finished edge on both sides of woven fabric, running lengthwise. It’s usually tighter woven or looks different from the cut edges. The Grainline on your pattern piece should always be parallel to the Selvage.

How do I keep the grainline straight?

Use a ruler or measuring tape. Measure the distance from the Grainline arrow on the pattern piece to the Selvage (or folded edge) of the fabric at both ends of the arrow line. Adjust the pattern piece until these distances are the same. This makes sure the Grainline is straight.

Do I have to trace the pattern?

No, you don’t have to Tracing pattern. You can cut the original paper pattern if you wish. Tracing pattern is helpful if you want to save your pattern in its original sizes, make size changes, or work with fabrics that are hard to pin through the paper. It adds an extra step but can be useful.