Step-by-Step: How Do You Hem Pants With A Sewing Machine

Learning how to hem pants with a sewing machine lets you quickly fix pant lengths and make clothes fit just right. You hem pants with a sewing machine by marking the new length, cutting off extra fabric, pressing the hem fold, and then sewing a straight stitch or blind hem stitch around the pant leg opening. This guide will show you how to shorten trousers using your sewing machine, explaining different sewing machine hemming techniques and providing simple instructions for hemming pants so you can adjust pant length easily.

Why Fix Pant Length?

Pants that are too long can get dirty, wear out fast at the bottom, and even make you trip. Making your pants the right length looks better and keeps them in good shape longer. Hemming them yourself is a great skill. It saves money, and you can make clothes fit your body perfectly.

Tools Needed for Sewing Hems

To hem pants with your sewing machine, you will need a few simple things. Having the right tools makes the job much easier and helps you get a neat finish.

The Pants: Of course, you need the pants you want to hem.
Sewing Machine: Any working sewing machine will do.
Matching Thread: Pick thread that is the same color as your pants. If you can’t find an exact match, choose a slightly darker shade. It blends in better than lighter thread.
Sharp Scissors: You need fabric scissors to cut the fabric neatly.
Measuring Tape or Ruler: For measuring the new pant length accurately.
Fabric Marker or Tailor’s Chalk: To mark the fold lines and cutting lines on the fabric.
Straight Pins: To hold the fabric in place before sewing.
Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing the fabric is key for crisp, clean hems.
Seam Ripper: To take out old stitches if you need to undo the old hem.
Optional: Hemming Foot for Sewing Machine: This special foot helps you make even folds for some types of hems, especially narrow ones.
Optional: Blind Hem Foot: If you plan to use the blind hem stitch, this foot is very helpful.
Optional: Serger or Zigzag Stitch: To finish the raw edge of the fabric before hemming.

Make sure your sewing machine is threaded and ready to go before you start.

Preparing the Pants for Hemming

Before you even touch the sewing machine, you need to prepare the pants. This step is very important for getting the correct length and a clean hem.

Wash and Dry the Pants

Always wash and dry the pants the way you normally would before you hem them. Fabric can shrink, and you want it to shrink before you set the new length. If you hem before washing, the pants might end up too short after the first wash.

Take Out the Old Hem

Sometimes, you just need to make pants shorter. Other times, the old hem is messy or you want to change the style. Use a seam ripper to carefully take out the stitches of the old hem. Go slow so you don’t rip the fabric. Once the stitches are out, press the area flat with an iron. This helps remove the crease from the old hem.

Measuring Pants for Hemming

Getting the measurement right is the most important part of hemming pants. Take your time here.

How to Figure Out the New Length

Try the Pants On: Put on the pants and the shoes you plan to wear with them most often. This is crucial.
Fold Up the Bottom: Have someone help you fold up the bottom of one pant leg to the length you want. Stand naturally. The helper should use pins to hold the folded edge in place. Pin all the way around the leg.
Check the Length: Look in a mirror. Walk around a little. Make sure you like the length on both legs. The hem should usually just touch the top of your shoe or be slightly shorter, depending on the style.
Mark the Fold: Once the length is set, use tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker to make a mark right at the folded edge (where the fabric meets the outside of the pant leg). Make several marks around the leg.
Take the Pants Off: Carefully take the pants off without moving the pins too much.

Calculating the Cutting Line

Now you need to figure out where to cut the fabric. The hem needs extra fabric to fold up.

Measure the Desired Hem Allowance: A typical hem needs about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of fabric to fold up. A common hem size is 1.5 inches. This means you fold up 1/2 inch first, then another 1 inch. Or you might fold up 1 inch, then another 1 inch for a total of 2 inches. Let’s say you want a 1.5-inch finished hem.
Mark the Cutting Line: From the mark you made (this is the finished hemline), measure down the amount needed for the hem allowance plus any initial fold.
- If you want a 1.5-inch finished hem and will fold up 0.5 inch, then 1 inch: Your mark is the finished length. From that mark, measure down 0.5 inches for the first fold line. Then measure down another 1 inch from that line for the cutting line. Total added length below your mark is 1.5 inches.
- If you want a 2-inch finished hem and will fold up 1 inch, then 1 inch: Your mark is the finished length. From that mark, measure down 1 inch for the first fold line. Then measure down another 1 inch from that line for the cutting line. Total added length below your mark is 2 inches.
Make it Simple: A simpler way for a standard double fold hem: Decide how wide you want the finished hem to be (e.g., 1.5 inches). Then add fabric for the first fold (e.g., 0.5 inches). So, the total hem allowance is 1.5 + 0.5 = 2 inches. From your marked finished hemline, measure down 2 inches and mark the cutting line.
Double Check: Remeasure from the very bottom of the pant leg to your mark. This is the amount you need to remove. Make sure this amount is the same all the way around the leg.

Let’s use a common example: You want a finished hem of 1.5 inches. You will fold up 0.5 inch first, then 1 inch.

Mark the finished hemline (where you pinned).
From this mark, measure down 0.5 inches and draw a line (the first fold line).
From the first fold line, measure down 1 inch and draw a line (the cutting line).

The distance from your original mark (finished hemline) to the cutting line is 1.5 inches. This 1.5 inches is the total width of the fabric you need below the finished edge to create the hem.

Example Measurement Table:

Mark/Line	Distance from Original Bottom (Example: Need to remove 4 inches total)	Distance from Finished Hemline	Purpose
Original Bottom Edge	0 inches	-4 inches	Starting point
Cutting Line	0 inches	-4 inches	Where to cut
First Fold Line (fold up)	1 inch from cutting line	-3 inches	First fold line
Finished Hemline (fold up)	1.5 inches from first fold line	0 inches	Desired pant length

This table is based on removing 4 inches and using a 1.5-inch double fold hem (0.5 then 1). The cutting line is 4 inches up from the original bottom. Your marks are from the top down.

Let’s restate the measuring using the marked finished hemline as the reference point.

Put pants on, mark desired finished hemline (where you want the bottom edge to be).
Take pants off. Measure the distance from the old hem edge up to this finished hemline mark. Let’s say you need to remove 4 inches.
Decide your hem allowance. For a 1.5-inch double fold hem:
- You need 1.5 inches for the main fold up.
- You need another 0.5 inches for the first fold up.
- Total hem allowance below your finished hemline mark is 1.5 + 0.5 = 2 inches.
The cutting line should be 2 inches below your finished hemline mark.
So, measure 2 inches below your finished hemline mark and draw the cutting line.
Cut along the cutting line.

Do the same for the other pant leg. Make sure the measurements are the same on both legs. You can measure from the crotch seam down to the marked finished hemline to ensure they are even. This is a good way to check after you make your marks.

Cutting the Fabric

With your cutting line marked clearly all the way around the pant leg, it’s time to cut.

Lay the pant leg flat. Smooth out any wrinkles.
Use your sharp fabric scissors to cut along the marked cutting line. Cut slowly and carefully to make a straight edge.
Repeat for the other pant leg.

Now you have removed the extra length, and the pant legs have a raw edge ready to be folded up for the hem.

Finishing the Raw Edge

Before you sew the hem, it’s a good idea to finish the raw edge. This stops the fabric from fraying. This step makes your hem last longer and look cleaner inside.

There are a few ways to finish the edge:

Serger: If you have a serger, use it to create a clean edge stitch around the raw edge.
Zigzag Stitch: On a regular sewing machine, set it to a zigzag stitch. Sew along the raw edge, letting the needle go just off the edge on one side. This secures the edge.
Pinked Edge: For fabrics that don’t fray much, you can use pinking shears (scissors with a jagged edge) to cut the raw edge. This is the quickest method but offers the least protection against fraying.
Fold and Stitch (for narrow hems): For very narrow hems, you can fold the raw edge up a tiny bit (like 1/4 inch) and press it, then fold it up again. The raw edge is hidden inside.

For a standard hem, a zigzag stitch or serged edge is best. Let’s assume you’ll use a zigzag stitch if you don’t have a serger.

Set your sewing machine to a medium-width zigzag stitch.
Sew around the raw edge of each pant leg opening.

Pressing the Hem

Pressing is just as important as sewing for a good hem. It creates sharp folds that are easy to sew neatly.

First Fold: Fold the finished raw edge up by the amount you planned for the first fold (e.g., 0.5 inches). Use your measuring tape to be accurate. Pin in a few places to hold it. Press this fold all the way around the pant leg. Use steam if your fabric can handle it.
Second Fold: Now, fold the hem up again by the amount you planned for the final hem width (e.g., 1 inch). The first fold (0.5 inches) is now hidden inside this second fold. The top edge of this second fold should line up with your original marked finished hemline. Pin well all around the leg.
Press Again: Press this second fold firmly all the way around. You should now have a crisp hem fold ready to be sewn. The raw edge is tucked inside the double fold.

The width of your double fold hem (the part you will sew) is the distance from the bottom edge of the pant leg up to the top fold line.

Sewing Machine Hemming Techniques

Now it’s time to sew! There are different sewing machine hemming techniques you can use, depending on the fabric and the look you want.

Straight Stitch Hem

This is the most common and strongest hem for pants like jeans or casual trousers. The stitches show on the outside of the pant leg, usually about 1/8 inch from the top folded edge of the hem.

Machine Setup:
- Thread your machine with matching thread in the needle and bobbin.
- Set your machine to a straight stitch.
- Set the stitch length. A good length for hemming jeans or sturdy fabric is usually 2.5 to 3 mm. For lighter fabrics, you might use a shorter stitch.
- Attach the regular presser foot.
Position the Fabric: Place the pant leg under the presser foot. Line up the top folded edge of the hem with a guide on your presser foot or stitch plate. You want to sew a consistent distance from this edge.
Start Sewing: Start sewing at an inner seam of the pant leg (like the inseam or side seam). This helps the start and end stitches blend in. Sew slowly and keep the edge lined up. Sew all the way around the pant leg.
Finish: When you reach where you started, sew over the first few stitches by about 1/2 inch to secure the seam. Cut the threads.

Blind Hem Stitch Sewing Machine

A blind hem stitch is designed to be almost invisible from the outside of the pants. It’s perfect for dress pants, skirts, and finer fabrics where you don’t want the stitching to show. Your sewing machine needs a blind hem stitch setting for this. You will also likely need a special blind hem foot.

Prepare the Hem Fold: The fold for a blind hem is different.
- Finish the raw edge (zigzag or serge).
- Fold up the hem allowance once (e.g., 2 inches). Press.
- Now, fold the hem back on itself, away from the pant leg, so that the finished edge of the hem sticks out slightly (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch) beyond the main pant fabric fold. The bulk of the hem allowance is now folded up against the outside of the pant leg, with only a small fold showing at the bottom. Pin this fold in place.
Machine Setup:
- Thread your machine with matching thread.
- Set your machine to the blind hem stitch. This stitch usually looks like several straight stitches followed by a single wide zigzag stitch.
- Attach the blind hem foot. This foot has a guide blade.
Position the Fabric: Place the folded fabric under the blind hem foot. The guide blade on the foot should run along the folded edge of the main pant fabric.
Adjust Settings: Sew a few test stitches on a scrap of the same fabric folded the same way. The straight stitches of the blind hem should sew on the hem allowance fabric. The tip of the zigzag stitch should just catch the main pant fabric fold. Adjust the stitch width and length until the zigzag stitch just barely catches the main fabric fold. You should only see a tiny dot of thread on the outside of the pants.
Sew: Start at an inner seam. Sew slowly, keeping the guide blade against the fabric fold.
Finish: Sew all the way around. Overlap stitches slightly at the end. Cut threads.
Press: Unfold the hem and press it flat. The blind hem stitch should be almost invisible from the outside.

Other Hemming Styles

Rolled Hem: Very narrow hem, often done with a special rolled hem foot. Good for light, flowy fabrics.
Topstitched Hem: Similar to a straight stitch hem, but you might sew two rows of stitches for a decorative effect (like on jeans).

For most pant hemming jobs at home, the straight stitch double fold hem is the most common. It’s sturdy and easy to do.

Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions for Hemming Pants

Let’s walk through the steps for a standard straight stitch double fold hem, assuming you have already measured, cut, finished the edge, and pressed the hem folds. This is how to sew a hem on pants using a straight stitch.

Step 1: Set Up Your Machine

Insert the correct needle for your fabric (denim needle for jeans, universal for cotton twill, etc.).
Thread the machine with matching thread.
Set the stitch to a straight stitch.
Set the stitch length (2.5-3 mm for most pants).
Attach the regular presser foot.

Step 2: Position the Fabric

Open up the pant leg slightly.
Place the pressed hem under the presser foot.
Line up the top folded edge of the hem so it runs along the edge of your presser foot or a marked line on your machine’s plate. This will give you a consistent seam allowance (the distance from the folded edge to your stitch line). Aim for about 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Step 3: Start Sewing

Lower the presser foot.
Begin sewing at an inner seam, like the inseam.
Sew a few stitches forward, then sew a few stitches backward (reverse) to lock the stitch at the beginning.
Sew forward again.

Step 4: Sew Around the Leg

Keep sewing slowly and steadily around the pant leg.
Use your hands to gently guide the fabric, but do not push or pull it.
Keep the top folded edge of the hem lined up with your guide on the presser foot or machine. This is key to a straight, even hem.
When you get to bulkier seams (like side seams or inseams), sew a little slower. You might need to lift the front of the presser foot slightly to help it over the seam if your machine struggles. Some machines have a little button on the presser foot to help level it over thick seams.

Step 5: Finish the Stitch

Sew all the way around until you reach your starting point.
Overlap your starting stitches by about 1/2 inch.
Sew a few stitches backward (reverse) to lock the stitch at the end.
Sew forward to the end of the reverse stitches.
Lift the needle and presser foot.
Pull the pant leg out from the machine.

Step 6: Trim Threads

Use small scissors to trim the thread tails close to the fabric on both the top and bottom sides of the stitch.

Step 7: Press the Finished Hem

Go back to your ironing board.
Press the newly sewn hem from the inside and then the outside. This sets the stitches and makes the hem look smooth and professional.

Repeat these steps for the other pant leg.

Tips for Success

Practice First: If you’re new to sewing hems, practice on some scrap fabric from the cut-off pant leg or similar material.
Use Good Pins: Sharp, fine pins won’t snag or damage your fabric.
Don’t Rush: Sewing slowly helps you keep your stitch line straight and even.
Pressing is Key: Don’t skip the pressing steps! It makes a huge difference in the final look.
Check Bobbin Thread: Make sure you have enough bobbin thread before you start sewing around the leg. It’s annoying to run out halfway!
Needle Type: Use the right needle for the fabric. A dull or wrong needle can skip stitches or damage the fabric.
Thread Tension: Check your machine’s thread tension. Stitches should look the same on both sides. Adjust if needed.
Hemming Foot: If you struggle to keep the hem edge straight, look into getting a hemming foot or blind hem foot for your machine. They are designed to make these tasks easier.
Measure Twice, Cut Once: This old saying is very true when hemming pants! Double-check your measurements before cutting.
Consider Fabric Type: Thick fabrics like denim need a stronger needle and possibly a longer stitch length. Light fabrics might need a finer needle and possibly a shorter stitch.

Adjust Pant Length with Different Fabrics

The process stays much the same, but you might make small changes for different fabric types.

Denim: Use a sturdy denim needle (size 14 or 16). A slightly longer stitch length (3mm) works well. Consider using contrast thread for a classic jeans look. Sewing over side seams can be thick; use a Jean-a-ma-jig or similar tool to help your presser foot go over the hump.
Dress Pants (Wool, Gabardine): Often use a blind hem stitch for a cleaner look. Use a universal needle (size 10 or 12). Pressing is very important.
Knit Pants (Jersey, Sweatpants): Use a ballpoint or stretch needle to avoid skipping stitches or damaging the fabric fibers. You can use a straight stitch, but a slight zigzag or a stitch made for knits will allow the hem to stretch a little. Often, the existing hem on knit pants is a simple coverstitch (looks like two rows of stitching on top and looped threads underneath). You can recreate a similar look with a double needle on your sewing machine.
Lightweight Fabrics (Rayon, Silk): Consider a narrow hem or rolled hem. Use a fine needle (size 9 or 11) and potentially a shorter stitch length.

Deciphering Common Issues

Sometimes, things don’t go perfectly the first time. Here are a few common problems and how to fix them:

Wavy Hem: This can happen with knit fabrics or if you stretched the fabric while sewing. Use a stretch stitch or slight zigzag for knits. Don’t pull the fabric when sewing. Pressing can help smooth it out.
Uneven Stitch Line: This means you didn’t keep the hem’s folded edge lined up consistently with your guide. Practice sewing straight lines. Use a guide on your machine bed or mark a line with washable chalk.
Skipped Stitches: This often means you are using the wrong needle or the needle is bent or dull. Change the needle. Make sure you are using the correct type (universal, ballpoint, denim) and size for your fabric. Check that the needle is inserted correctly.
Bunched Fabric: This can happen if your thread tension is off, stitch length is too short for thick fabric, or you are pushing the fabric. Check tension. Increase stitch length for thick areas. Let the machine feed the fabric; don’t push hard.

Alternatives to Machine Hemming

While this guide focuses on using a sewing machine, it’s good to know there are other options:

Hand Sewing: A classic way to hem, especially for delicate fabrics or blind hems where you want truly invisible stitches. It takes longer but gives great control.
Iron-On Hemming Tape: A quick, no-sew option. You place a strip of fusible web tape inside the hem fold and press with a hot iron. The tape melts and glues the fabric layers together. This is a temporary fix as it can come undone with washing and isn’t as durable as sewing. It also makes the hem stiffer.

Using a sewing machine is generally the most durable and efficient way to hem pants for a long-lasting result.

Grasping the Benefits of DIY Hemming

Hemming your own pants has many benefits.

Perfect Fit: Clothes tailored to your exact height and preferred shoe style look and feel better.
Save Money: Alterations can be expensive. Doing it yourself costs next to nothing once you have the basic tools.
Learn a Skill: Sewing is a useful skill that you can use for many other projects.
Fix Damaged Hems: Easily repair ripped or worn-out hems on your favorite pants.
Update Styles: Slightly changing the hem length can update the look of older pants.

With just a bit of practice, you’ll be able to adjust pant length sewing quickly and neatly.

Final Steps for a Professional Finish

Once you’ve sewn and pressed the hem, take one last look.

Check the stitching on both the inside and outside. Make sure it’s even.
Trim any loose threads.
Try the pants on again to admire your work and ensure the length is just right.

Congratulations! You’ve successfully learned how to sew a hem on pants using your sewing machine.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: What is the best stitch for hemming pants?
A: For most casual pants like jeans or chinos, a straight stitch is best because it’s strong and durable. For dress pants where you don’t want the stitches to show, the blind hem stitch is the best choice.

Q: How much fabric should I leave for a hem allowance?
A: For a standard double-fold hem, leave about 1.5 to 2 inches (3.8 to 5 cm) below the desired finished length. This gives you enough fabric to fold up twice.

Q: Do I need a special hemming foot?
A: You don’t need a special hemming foot or blind hem foot, but they can make the job easier and help you achieve more consistent results, especially if you are new to sewing or hemming many pairs of pants.

Q: How do I hem jeans and keep the original hem look?
A: This technique is called a “jean hem” or “original hem”. Instead of cutting off the old hem, you fold the excess fabric up underneath the original hem and stitch it in place just below the original stitch line. This method is a bit more advanced but keeps the worn look and stitching style of the original hem.

Q: My sewing machine struggles to sew over thick seams on jeans. What can I do?
A: Use a denim needle. Sew slowly. Use a tool like a “Jean-a-ma-jig” or a folded piece of thick fabric scraps to help level the presser foot when sewing over thick seams. You can also manually turn the handwheel to slowly move the needle through the thickest spots.

Q: My hem is wavy after sewing knit pants. Why?
A: Knit fabric can stretch easily. Make sure you are not pulling the fabric while sewing. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle and a stretch stitch or slight zigzag setting on your machine. Pressing after sewing can also help smooth it out.

Q: Can I hem pants by hand instead of with a machine?
A: Yes, you can hem pants by hand. A slip stitch is a common hand stitch for hemming, creating a nearly invisible hem. However, machine hemming is usually faster and more durable, especially for everyday wear pants.

This guide provides solid instructions for hemming pants with a sewing machine. With these steps and tips, you can confidently shorten trousers and make them fit just right.