Step-by-Step: How To Hem Trousers With Sewing Machine

You can easily make your trousers the perfect length using a sewing machine. This guide will show you how. Hemming trousers with a sewing machine is a great skill. It saves money. It makes your clothes fit just right. Let’s get started and adjust your pant length like a pro.

Why Change Your Trouser Length?

Pants often come too long. Or maybe you want to wear them with different shoes. Changing the length makes them fit better. A good fit looks sharp. It makes you feel good too.

Get Your Tools Ready

You need a few things. Gather them before you start.

The trousers you want to hem
A sewing machine (even a basic blind hem stitch machine can work!)
Matching thread
Sharp scissors
Measuring tape or a ruler
Tailor’s chalk or pins
An iron and ironing board
A seam ripper (if taking out old hems)
Optional: A blind hem foot for your sewing machine

Measuring the Right Length

This is a very important first step. You need to measure trouser length correctly.

Put the Pants On

Wear the pants you want to hem. Also, put on the shoes you plan to wear with them most often. The shoes change how the pants should hang.

Get Some Help

Ask a friend to help you. It’s hard to mark pants by yourself. Stand up straight and look forward. Do not look down at your feet.

Mark the New Hem Line

Your helper should find where the bottom of the pants should sit on your shoes. They should mark this spot. They can use a pin or tailor’s chalk. Put the pin or chalk line all the way around the pant leg. Make sure the mark is even.

Check the Length

Walk around a little. Sit down and stand up. Make sure the length feels right. Is it comfortable? Does it look good with your shoes? Adjust the mark if needed.

Take the Pants Off

Carefully take off the pants. Do not move the pins or rub off the chalk mark.

Lay the Pants Flat

Lay the pants flat on a table. Smooth out one leg. Make sure the inner and outer seams are lined up.

Measure from the Mark

Use your ruler or tape measure. Measure from the pin or chalk mark down to the original hem edge. How much fabric is there? This is the fabric you might remove or fold up. Note this number.

Mark the Fold Line

Now, mark where the bottom edge of the finished hem will be. This is your new hem line. This is where the first fold will happen. Measure up from the mark you just made. How far up you measure depends on the kind of hem you want.

Common Hem Types

Simple Turn-Up: You fold the fabric up just once. You need less fabric below the new hem line.
Double Fold Hem: You fold the fabric up twice. This hides the raw edge inside. This is very common for trousers. You need more fabric below the new hem line for a double fold hem sewing technique.

Let’s plan for a standard double fold hem. It is strong and neat. For a double fold hem, you need about 1.5 to 2 inches (4 to 5 cm) of fabric below your new hem line. This is the hem allowance.

Measure 1.5 to 2 inches down from your marked new hem line. Draw a second line here. This second line shows where you will cut the fabric. If you are just shortening the pants, you will cut along this second line. If you are lengthening them, you might let out an old hem instead.

Mark the Other Leg

Repeat the measuring process for the second pant leg. Make sure it is the same length as the first leg. Lay one leg on top of the other. Line up the seams. Check that your marks are at the same spot on both legs. This helps keep the hem even. Adjusting pant length on both legs at the same spot is key for a balanced look.

Preparing the Fabric

Before sewing, you need to prepare the bottom of the pant legs. This involves pressing and maybe cutting fabric for hem.

Take Out the Old Hem

If your pants have an old hem, use a seam ripper to take it out. Be careful not to cut the fabric. Take out all the old stitches. Remove any loose threads.

Press the Old Hem Line

Iron the area where the old hem was. This helps get rid of the fold line. Use steam if your fabric can handle it. Make the fabric flat and smooth. This prepares the area for the new hem.

Pressing the New Hem

Now, you will press the fabric to form the new hem. This step is pressing a hem into place before you sew. This makes sewing much easier and neater.

Lay the pant leg flat. Fold the fabric up along your new hem line (the first line you marked). This is the line where the finished hem bottom will be.

Use your iron to press this fold firmly. Work your way around the pant leg.

Fold Again

Now, fold the fabric up a second time. For a double fold hem, you fold up the amount you decided for your hem allowance (1.5 to 2 inches). Fold up to the second line you marked, the cutting line. But wait, we might cut before this second fold. Let’s clarify.

Method 1: Fold and Trim

Some people fold twice first, then trim any extra fabric that sticks out past the top fold.

Method 2: Trim First (More Common for Double Folds)

This is often easier for a neat double fold hem sewing.

You marked the new hem line (where the finished hem bottom is).
You marked the cutting line (1.5 to 2 inches below the new hem line).
Cut along the cutting line. Cut off the extra fabric. This is cutting fabric for hem. Make sure your scissors are sharp for a clean edge.

Now, you have the raw edge of the fabric.

Fold the raw edge up by about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (0.5 to 1 cm). Press this first small fold with your iron. This hides the raw edge. This is part of ironing hem allowance.
Fold up again along your main new hem line. This is the line you marked first, where the hem should end. Press this second, larger fold firmly. This completes pressing a hem for a double fold.

Pin the hem in place. Use pins to hold the folded hem as you iron. Then, remove the pins as you fold the second time and press. Add pins again to hold the completed double fold hem in place. Place pins every few inches.

Checking Your Hem Allowance

Measure the folded hem all the way around the leg. Is it the same width everywhere? Is the top fold line even? Adjust pins and press again if needed. Consistent ironing hem allowance makes for a professional look.

Sewing the Hem

Now it’s time to use your sewing machine! There are different hemming techniques for pants. We will look at two common ones: the simple double fold and the blind hem.

Sewing Machine Settings

Before you start, set up your sewing machine.

Thread: Use thread that matches your trousers. If you can’t find an exact match, choose thread a shade darker. It blends in better.
Needle: Use a needle that is right for your fabric. A universal needle works for many fabrics. Use a denim needle for jeans. Use a fine needle for delicate fabrics.
Stitch Type:
- For a simple double fold hem, a straight stitch is best.
- For a blind hem, use the special blind hem stitch on your machine.
Stitch Length:
- For a straight stitch hem, use a medium stitch length. Maybe 2.5 to 3 on your machine’s dial. Too short, and it can make holes; too long, and it’s not strong.
- For a blind hem stitch, the stitch length and width are important. Your machine manual will help here. Test on scrap fabric first.

These are sewing machine settings for hemming.

Method 1: Simple Double Fold Hem

This is a very strong and durable hem. The stitches will show on the outside of the pants. This is fine for casual trousers or jeans. This is double fold hem sewing.

Put the Leg Under the Foot: Place the pant leg under the presser foot. Start sewing at an inner or outer seam. This hides where you start and stop.
Position the Needle: Place the needle close to the top folded edge of the hem. You want to sew through all layers of the folded fabric.
Start Sewing: Lower the presser foot. Sew a few stitches forward. Then sew a few stitches backward (reverse stitch) to lock the stitch.
Sew Around: Sew slowly around the pant leg. Keep the edge of the hem lined up with a mark on your presser foot or sewing machine plate. This keeps your stitch line straight. Guide the fabric gently. Do not pull or push hard. Remove pins as you sew. Do not sew over pins!
Finish Sewing: Sew all the way around until you reach where you started. Overlap your starting stitches by about 1/2 inch (1 cm). Sew a few reverse stitches to lock the end.
Lift and Trim: Lift the needle and the presser foot. Pull the fabric out. Cut the threads close to the fabric.

Repeat for the other pant leg.

Method 2: Blind Hem

A blind hem stitch is almost invisible from the outside. This is great for dress pants or slacks. You will need a blind hem stitch machine or a regular machine with this stitch option and a blind hem foot. Using a blind hem foot helps guide the fabric perfectly.

What is a Blind Hem Stitch?

The blind hem stitch looks like mostly straight stitches with a few zig-zag stitches that pop out to the side. The zig-zag catches just one or two threads of the main fabric. The straight stitches sew down the hem allowance.

Preparing for the Blind Hem

The way you fold for a blind hem is a little different from a simple double fold.

Take out the old hem. Press the fabric flat.
Mark your new finished hem line.
Mark your cutting line (1.5 to 2 inches below). Cut off the extra fabric.
Fold the raw edge up by about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (0.5 to 1 cm). Press this first small fold. This is part of ironing hem allowance for the blind hem.
Now, fold the hem up again along your new finished hem line (the first line). Press this fold. This makes the hem allowance.
Here is the special part: Fold the pant leg back on itself, away from the hem. The hem allowance will stick out to the side. The top edge of the hem allowance should be just sticking out from the fold. It’s like you are making a crease right at the top of the hem allowance. The main fabric of the pant leg is folded back, hiding where the zig-zag stitches will go. Pin this fold in place.

This folding is crucial for using a blind hem foot.

Using a Blind Hem Foot

A blind hem foot has a guide bar. This bar helps you keep the fabric folded correctly as you sew. The straight stitches of the blind hem stitch will sew on the hem allowance. The zig-zag stitches will just barely catch the main fabric at the fold you made.

Attach the Foot: Put the blind hem foot on your sewing machine.
Select the Stitch: Choose the blind hem stitch on your machine. It often looks like a wavy line with straight lines next to it.
Adjust Settings: Adjust the stitch length and width. You want the straight stitches to sew along the hem allowance. You want the zig-zag to just catch the edge of the folded main fabric. Test on a scrap piece first!
Position Fabric: Place the folded pant leg under the blind hem foot. Line up the guide bar of the foot with the folded edge of the main pant fabric.
Start Sewing: Lower the foot. Start sewing at a seam. Sew slowly. Keep the folded edge lined up with the guide bar. The machine will sew straight stitches on the hem allowance and the zig-zag will hop over and catch the main fabric fold.
Check Your Work: Stop and look. Are the zig-zag stitches just catching the fabric? Are they almost invisible from the right side? Adjust your stitch width if needed.
Sew Around: Sew all the way around the leg. Overlap stitches slightly. Lock the stitch if your machine does that for blind hems.
Unfold: Carefully unfold the fabric. Pull the hem allowance down. Look at the right side of the pants. You should see very small stitches or maybe none at all if your thread matches well. The hem is held in place by the stitches on the inside.

Repeat for the other leg.

Check Your Hemming Work

Once you have sewn both hems, take a close look.

Is the stitching even?
Is it the same distance from the bottom edge all the way around?
For a blind hem, are the stitches nearly invisible on the outside?
Are the hems the same length on both legs? Measure again from the waist or crotch seam down to the hem edge.

If something is wrong, you might need to use your seam ripper and try again. It’s okay! Sewing takes practice.

Finishing with Pressing

Pressing is just as important as sewing. Ironing hem allowance again helps set the stitches and makes the hem look crisp and professional.

Lay the pants flat on your ironing board. Fold the hem down into its final position. Press the hem from the right side of the fabric. Use steam if your fabric allows.

For a simple double fold hem, press the stitched line.

For a blind hem, press the folded hem flat. You may want to press from the inside too. Be careful not to press too hard on seams, as this can leave marks on the outside.

This final pressing a hem step gives your newly hemmed trousers a finished look.

Tips for Different Fabrics

Jeans: Use a sturdy denim needle. Use strong thread. A simple double fold hem looks great on jeans. Use a hump jumper tool at thick seams to help the presser foot go over bumps.
Dress Pants/Slacks: These often need a blind hem for a cleaner look. Use a finer needle. Test your blind hem stitch settings on a scrap of the same fabric first.
Delicate Fabrics: Be extra careful with measuring and marking. Use fine pins or tailor’s chalk that brushes away easily. Use a fine needle and thread. Press gently.
Stretchy Fabrics: Use a stretch needle or ballpoint needle. Use a stretch stitch on your machine if it has one. If not, a slight zig-zag stitch can work. Hemming techniques for pants with stretch need stitches that can move with the fabric.

Table: Sample Sewing Machine Settings for Hemming

Fabric Type	Needle Type	Stitch Type	Stitch Length (approx)	Stitch Width (approx)	Notes
Cotton, Linen	Universal	Straight or Blind Hem	2.5 – 3 mm	N/A (Straight) / Varies (Blind)	Good for basic hems.
Denim	Denim	Straight	3 – 3.5 mm	N/A	Use strong thread. Can be thick.
Wool, Polyester	Universal or Sharp	Blind Hem or Straight	2.5 – 3 mm	N/A (Straight) / Varies (Blind)	Blind hem often preferred for slacks.
Silky, Rayon Slacks	Fine Universal/Sharp	Blind Hem	2 – 2.5 mm	Varies	Use fine thread. Press carefully.
Knits/Stretch	Ballpoint/Stretch	Stretch Stitch or Fine Zig-Zag	2.5 – 3 mm	N/A (Stretch) / 1-2 mm (Zig-zag)	Needs flexibility.

Note: Always test settings on a scrap piece of your fabric first.

Troubleshooting Common Hemming Issues

Uneven Hem: Did you measure and mark carefully on both legs? Did you keep your guide line straight while sewing? Take it out and try again, focusing on precise marking and slow, steady sewing. Adjusting pant length evenly takes practice.
Stitches Skipping: Is your needle new and right for the fabric? Is your machine threaded correctly? Skipped stitches mean the machine isn’t catching the bobbin thread. Re-thread everything and try a new needle.
Fabric Bunching: Are you pulling or pushing the fabric? Let the machine feed the fabric at its own pace. Is your stitch length okay? Is your tension right? Check your sewing machine manual for tension help. Pressing the hem well before sewing helps prevent bunching.
Blind Hem Stitches Show Too Much: Is your stitch width set correctly? Is the guide bar on your blind hem foot lined up right? Are you sewing on the folded edge of the main fabric, not too far into it? Are you using thread that matches well? Practice on a scrap and adjust settings until the stitches are almost invisible. The blind hem stitch machine requires careful setup.

Getting the Right Stitch

Sewing machine settings for hemming depend on your fabric and the desired look. Always test. Grab a scrap of the same fabric. Fold it like you plan to hem. Sew a test line. Check the stitches on both sides. Does it look good? Is it strong enough? Are the blind stitches hidden? Adjust your settings until they are right.

The blind hem stitch machine uses a special motion. It sews straight for a few stitches, then throws a zig-zag stitch to the side. This zig-zag needs to just barely touch the fold of the main fabric. Your machine manual will show you which stitch is the blind hem stitch and how to set its width and length. Using a blind hem foot makes this much easier because its guide helps you keep the fabric perfectly aligned for the needle’s zig-zag path.

Remember, pressing a hem is crucial at several stages. Pressing after taking out the old hem helps flatten the fabric. Pressing the new folds before sewing makes sewing much more accurate. Pressing the finished hem sets the stitches and gives a neat finish. Don’t skip the ironing hem allowance steps!

Cutting fabric for hem should be done carefully. Use sharp scissors and follow your marked line. If you cut unevenly, it will be harder to create a neat, even hem. If you are doing a double fold hem, make sure the hem allowance is the same all the way around after you cut. This ensures the final folded hem width is constant.

Hemming techniques for pants range from simple straight stitches to complex blind hems. Choosing the right technique depends on the fabric type and how formal the pants are. Practice makes perfect with all hemming techniques for pants. Start with simple ones like the double fold hem sewing method on jeans or casual pants. Then try the blind hem on practice fabric before moving to nicer trousers.

FAQ – Questions People Ask

Q: Can I hem trousers by hand?

A: Yes, you can. A hand-sewn hem is often used for very delicate fabrics or if you want an absolutely invisible hem. It takes longer than using a sewing machine.

Q: My sewing machine doesn’t have a blind hem stitch. Can I still do a blind hem?

A: Some basic machines do not have this stitch. You can try using a very narrow zig-zag stitch instead. Fold the fabric the same way as for a blind hem. Set the zig-zag width so it just barely goes over the edge of the folded main fabric. This will not be as hidden as a true blind hem stitch, but it can work for some fabrics.

Q: What if I cut the pants too short?

A: Oh no! This is a common fear. Always measure twice and cut once. If you cut them too short, there isn’t much you can do unless there was a very wide original hem you can let out. Sometimes you can add a facing or a false hem using extra fabric, but this can be tricky. Measure trouser length very carefully to avoid this!

Q: How wide should a hem be?

A: For trousers, a common hem width is 1.5 to 2 inches (about 4-5 cm). This gives the bottom of the pant leg some weight and helps it hang nicely. Dress pants sometimes have a slightly wider hem (up to 2.5 inches), while very casual pants or leggings might have a narrower hem (around 1 inch).

Q: My machine struggles over the side seams when hemming jeans.

A: Jeans seams are thick! Try using a Jean-a-ma-jig or ‘hump jumper’. This small tool helps level your presser foot when going over thick bumps like seams. It keeps the foot from tilting up too much, allowing the machine to sew smoothly over the layers. Sew slowly over thick spots.

Q: How do I choose the right needle size?

A: Needle size depends on fabric weight. Thicker fabrics need larger needles (like size 14 or 16 for denim). Medium weight fabrics use medium needles (size 11 or 12). Fine fabrics use small needles (size 9 or 10). Using the wrong size can cause skipped stitches or damage the fabric.

Hemming trousers is a practical skill. With a sewing machine, it’s fast and gives a strong, clean finish. Take your time with measuring and pressing. Choose the right hem type for your pants. Practice your sewing machine settings for hemming on scrap fabric. Soon, all your trousers will fit you just right!