Learn How To Sew Gathers With Sewing Machine Easily

You can make gathers on a sewing machine in a few simple ways. One common method is to sew long, loose stitches, called basting stitches, along the edge of the fabric and then gently pull the threads to scrunch the fabric up. Other ways use special tools or machine settings to make gathers for you.

Gathers add fullness and charm to sewing projects. They are perfect for skirts, sleeves, ruffles, and home decor like curtains. Making gathers on a sewing machine is faster and often looks better than doing it by hand. This guide will show you easy ways to gather fabric using your machine.

Why Gathers Are Great

Gathers make flat fabric look fuller. They add shape and style. Think of a full skirt or a puffy sleeve. Gathers make this happen. They take a long piece of fabric and make it fit a shorter edge, like a waistband or cuff.

Tools You Will Need

Your sewing machine
Fabric you want to gather
Matching thread
Pins
Scissors
Measuring tape or ruler
Maybe a special foot like a ruffling foot attachment

Comprehending Sewing Machine Settings for Gathers

Before you start gathering fabric, you need to set up your sewing machine. The right settings help you make gathers that are neat and even.

Stitch Length for Gathering

This is the most important setting for the basic method. You need a long stitch. A long stitch is easy to pull later. Set your machine to the longest stitch length it has. This is often marked as 4, 5, or even L for ‘long’.

Why use a long stitch? If the stitches are short, they are hard to pull. They can also break the fabric. A long stitch slides easily along the thread when you pull it.

Sewing Machine Tension for Gathers

Machine tension controls how the thread looks on the top and bottom of your fabric. For gathering with basting stitches, you want the top thread to be easy to pull.

Some people loosen the top tension a little bit for gathering. This makes the top thread lie flatter on the fabric. It makes pulling the thread easier.

Try setting your top tension slightly lower than normal. If your normal setting is 4, try 3 or even 2. Test this on a scrap piece of fabric first. You want the stitches to be loose but not so loose they fall apart.

If you are using a zigzag stitch over a cord (another gathering method), your tension might need to be normal or even tighter to hold the cord in place. We will look at that later.

Stitch Type for Gathering

The most common stitch for gathering is a straight stitch. You sew one or two lines of straight stitches.

Another stitch type you can use is a wide zigzag stitch over a cord or strong thread. This method does not need you to pull the sewing machine threads. You pull the cord instead. This is great for heavy fabrics.

Using Basting Stitches to Gather

This is the most common and easiest way to make gathers with a machine. It works for almost all fabrics.

Step-by-Step: Basting Stitch Method

Let’s learn how to make gathers with machine using this method.

h5 Prep Your Fabric

Decide which edge of the fabric you want to gather.
Mark the stitching line. This is usually about 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) from the raw edge. You might need to sew more than one line of stitches. Mark lines at 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch from the edge, or 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch.

h5 Set Up Your Machine

Set your machine to a long stitch length. Use the longest one you have.
Try loosening the top tension a little bit. Test on scrap fabric first.
Use a standard sewing foot.

h5 Sew the Basting Stitches for Gathering

Sew the first line of stitches on your marked line (e.g., 1/2 inch from the edge).
Do not backstitch at the start or end. Leave long thread tails (about 4-6 inches or 10-15 cm) at both ends. This is important for pulling.
Sew a second line of stitches. Sew this line parallel to the first one, about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) away from it (e.g., at 1/4 inch or 3/4 inch from the edge).
Again, do not backstitch. Leave long thread tails at both ends.
Why two lines? Sewing two lines of basting stitch for gathering helps spread out the gathers. It makes gathering fabric evenly much easier. If you only use one line, the fabric might gather too much in one spot.

h5 Prepare to Pull Threads

Go to one end of your fabric.
Separate the threads. You have two top threads and two bobbin threads sticking out.
Tie a knot with the two bobbin threads (the threads on the back side of the fabric). Or wrap them around a pin pushed into the fabric edge. This holds one end secure.

h5 Pull the Threads to Gather

Go to the other end of the fabric.
Take the two top threads in one hand.
Hold the fabric with your other hand.
Gently pull the two top threads at the same time.
As you pull, the fabric will start to scrunch up along the stitches.
Work the gathers along the thread. Push the fabric gently towards the knotted end.

h5 Adjust and Secure Gathering Fabric Evenly

Keep pulling the threads until your gathered fabric matches the length you need. For example, if you are attaching it to a waistband that is 20 inches long, gather your fabric until it is also 20 inches long.
Move the gathers around with your fingers. Spread them out so they look even across the whole piece. This is key for gathering fabric evenly.
Once the gathers are just right, tie off the loose thread tails at the pulling end. Tie the two top threads together in a knot. This stops the gathers from coming undone.
You can also tie all four threads (top and bobbin) together at both ends for extra security after adjusting the gathers.

h5 Stitch the Gathered Fabric

Now you can attach your gathered fabric to the other piece (like the waistband). Pin the gathered fabric to the flat piece, matching up the raw edges. Make sure the gathers stay even as you pin.
Sew with your normal stitch length and tension. Sew between the two lines of basting stitches. This hides the basting stitches inside your seam.
After sewing the final seam, you can remove the basting stitches. They pull out easily because they were long and loose.

Different Methods for Machine Gathering

The basting stitch method is classic, but your machine might offer other ways to gather. These types of machine gathering stitches or tools can make the job faster or easier for certain fabrics.

Ruffling Foot Attachment

This is a special foot that can make gathers as you sew. It looks a bit complex, but it works like magic!

h4 What a Ruffling Foot Does

A ruffling foot attachment works by pushing a small amount of fabric forward while the rest of the fabric moves under the needle. It also has a small blade or bar that holds the fabric back slightly. This action causes the fabric to bunch up, creating gathers or ruffles automatically as you sew.

You can usually adjust how much gathering the foot does. There are often settings for the depth of the gather (how much fabric is pushed forward) and the frequency of the gather (how often it pushes – on every stitch, every few stitches, etc.).

h4 How to Use a Ruffling Foot

Attach the ruffling foot to your sewing machine. Make sure it is attached correctly for your machine model. There is usually a little arm on the foot that hooks onto the needle clamp screw.
Choose your settings on the foot. Start with a test piece of fabric.
- Gather depth: This controls how tight the gathers are. A deeper setting makes tighter gathers.
- Gather frequency: This controls how often the fabric is pushed. Setting it to ‘1’ gathers on every stitch. Setting it to ‘6’ gathers on every sixth stitch, making less dense gathers or pleats.
Place your fabric under the foot. Line up the edge you want to gather.
Sew slowly and steadily. The foot does the gathering for you!
The amount of gathering is set by the foot settings and your stitch length. A longer stitch length on the machine, combined with the foot settings, will make more gathers.
If you need to attach the gathered piece to a flat piece at the same time, some ruffling feet let you put the flat piece into a special slot on the foot. This sews the gather and joins it to the flat piece in one step.

h4 Pros and Cons of the Ruffling Foot

Pros: Fast, easy to get gathering fabric evenly once you learn the settings, can join fabric in one step.
Cons: Need a specific foot, can be tricky to learn the settings, might not work well on all fabric types (very thick or very thin fabrics can be hard), might not give the exact amount of gathering needed without testing.

Differential Feed Gathering (for sergers)

If you have a serger (an overlock machine), it likely has a differential feed setting. This is a great way to gather fabric, especially knit fabrics or for light gathering on woven fabrics.

h4 What is Differential Feed?

A serger has two sets of feed dogs (the little teeth under the foot that move the fabric). The differential feed lets you change the speed of the front feed dogs compared to the back feed dogs.

If the front feed dogs move faster than the back ones, they push the fabric together, making gathers.
If they move slower, they stretch the fabric out, preventing gathers or stretching knits.
If they move at the same speed (the normal setting, usually 1.0), the fabric feeds through flat.

h4 How to Use Differential Feed for Gathering

Locate the differential feed dial on your serger. It is often marked with numbers like 0.7 to 2.0.
Set the dial to a number higher than 1.0. The higher the number (like 1.5, 1.8, or 2.0), the more gathering you will get.
You also need to set your stitch length. A longer stitch length on the serger will also increase the amount of gathering.
Adjust the cutting blade setting. You might want to trim off a little edge, or not, depending on your project.
Test on a scrap of your fabric. Sew a line and see how much it gathers.
Adjust the differential feed dial and stitch length until you get the amount of gathering you want.
Sew your fabric edge. The serger will gather it as it stitches and finishes the edge.

h4 Pros and Cons of Differential Feed Gathering

Pros: Fast, also finishes the fabric edge, works well on knits, can be adjusted.
Cons: Requires a serger, might not make really tight gathers on woven fabrics, harder to get an exact gathered length compared to the basting method unless you practice a lot.

Zigzag Over Cord Method

This method is excellent for gathering heavy fabrics where pulling basting threads might break them.

h4 How it Works

You sew a wide zigzag stitch over a strong thread or thin cord. The zigzag stitches go over the cord without catching it. Then, you pull the cord to gather the fabric.

h4 How to Use Zigzag Over Cord

Choose a strong thread or thin cord. Buttonhole thread, embroidery floss, or fine string works well. Make it longer than your fabric edge.
Set your sewing machine to a wide zigzag stitch.
Set your stitch length to be a bit longer than normal, but not the absolute longest. The zigzag needs to be dense enough to hold the cord but loose enough to slide. Test on scrap fabric.
Place the cord on the right side of your fabric, just inside your seam line (e.g., 1/2 inch from the edge).
Position your sewing foot so the needle zigzags over the cord. The needle should go to the left of the cord and to the right of the cord, but never through it. The cord sits under the space in the middle of your zigzag foot.
Sew along the fabric edge, making sure not to catch the cord in the stitches. Leave long tails of the cord at both ends.
Once stitched, pull the cord ends to gather the fabric.

h4 Pros and Cons of Zigzag Over Cord

Pros: Great for heavy fabrics, cord is strong and won’t break easily, creates nice, even gathers.
Cons: Takes practice to sew over the cord without catching it, uses more thread (zigzag).

Grasping Types of Machine Gathering Stitches

While the basic stitch for gathering fabric is usually a straight stitch (basting stitch), we have seen other ways. So, the types of machine gathering stitches you might use include:

Long Straight Stitch (Basting Stitch): The most common. Sew one or two rows. Pull threads.
Zigzag Stitch: Used over a cord or strong thread. The zigzag stitches hold the cord, and you pull the cord to gather.
Serger Stitch (with Differential Feed): The stitch made by a serger machine when the differential feed is set above 1.0. This stitch gathers and finishes the edge at the same time.

Mastering Gathering Fabric Evenly

Making gathers look smooth and consistent is key. Here are tips for gathering fabric evenly:

Use Two Lines of Basting Stitches: As mentioned, this is the best way with the basic method. It helps control the fabric fullness.
Pull Threads Gently: Don’t yank hard. Pull slowly and work the fabric along the threads.
Pull From the Bobbin Threads (Sometimes): For the basting stitch method, some sewers prefer to pull the bobbin threads instead of the top threads. If you loosened your top tension, the bobbin threads will be tighter. Pulling the tighter threads can sometimes feel easier. Experiment to see which you prefer. If pulling bobbin threads, knot the top threads at one end.
Distribute Gathers as You Pull: Stop pulling often to slide the fabric down the threads and spread it out with your fingers.
Measure As You Go: Pin the gathered piece to the piece it will attach to. Check the length often to make sure you are gathering just enough.
Pin Generously: Once gathered to the right length, pin the gathered fabric to the flat piece very well. Put pins in often, making sure the gathers stay spread out evenly between the pins.
Sew With Gathers On Top: When stitching the gathered piece to a flat piece, sew with the gathered side facing up. This lets you see the gathers and smooth out any that are getting caught as you sew. Sew between the basting lines.
Practice: Like any sewing skill, practice makes perfect! Try gathering different types of fabric.

Common Issues and How to Fix Them

Thread Breaks While Pulling: You might have pulled too hard, or your stitch length wasn’t long enough, or your tension was too tight. Go back, sew new basting stitches (maybe try loosening tension more and using the longest stitch), and pull more gently. Using two rows of stitches helps; if one thread breaks, you still have the others to pull on.
Gathers Look Uneven: You might not have distributed them well before pinning and sewing. Take out the stitching, loosen the gathers, rearrange them more carefully, pin more often, and sew with the gathered side up.
Fabric Won’t Gather Much: Your stitch length might be too short, or your tension is too tight, or you’re not pulling the right threads. Check settings. If using a ruffling foot, check its settings and stitch length. If using differential feed, increase the setting (higher number) and possibly stitch length.
Too Much Fabric Gathered: You over-gathered. Loosen the thread ties at the end, pull the fabric back out a bit, redistribute, and re-tie.

Bringing it All Together: Sewing Your Gathered Piece

Once you have finished using your preferred method to make gathers with machine, it’s time to attach it.

Match the gathered edge to the edge it will be sewn to (e.g., skirt panel to waistband). Right sides of the fabric should be facing each other.
Pin the two pieces together. Start by matching and pinning the ends. If attaching to a circle (like a skirt to a waistband), match center points and side seams first, then fill in between, carefully distributing the gathers.
Use plenty of pins to hold the gathers in place.
Sew the seam with your normal stitch length and tension. Sew between your two lines of basting stitches if you used that method. This hides the basting stitches. If you used a ruffling foot to join the fabric, the seam is already done! If you used a serger, the seam is also done.
After sewing the main seam, remove the basting stitches. They should pull out easily from the wrong side of the fabric.
Press the seam. Pressing helps the fabric lie flat and neat.

Comparing Gathering Methods

Here’s a quick look at the methods we talked about:

Method	Difficulty	Fabric Type	Speed	Result Quality	Special Tools Needed
Basting Stitch	Easy	Most fabrics	Medium	Very good, easy to control amount	Standard foot
Ruffling Foot Attachment	Medium	Light to Med	Fast	Good, but can vary	Ruffling foot
Differential Feed (Serger)	Easy	Knits, Light Wovens	Very Fast	Good, edge finished	Serger machine
Zigzag Over Cord	Medium	Heavy fabrics	Medium	Very good, strong	Standard foot, cord

For beginners, the basting stitch method is usually the best place to start. It helps you learn how gathering works and gives you full control over the final gathered length and evenness. As you get more comfortable, you might try a ruffling foot or differential feed if you have the tools.

Practice Makes Perfect

The best way to get good at gathering fabric is to practice. Take some scrap pieces of fabric. Try the basting stitch method. Sew one line, sew two lines. Practice pulling threads. See how the gathers form. Practice gathering fabric evenly. Try loosening your tension a little.

If you have a ruffling foot or a serger, practice with those too. Learn what the different settings do on your machine and with your fabric.

Gathering is a skill that opens up many new project ideas. From simple skirts to fancy dress details, mastering gathers is a great step in your sewing journey.

Fabric Types and Gathering

Different fabrics gather differently.

Lightweight fabrics (like cotton lawn, rayon, silk) gather easily and make soft, flowy gathers. The basting stitch method works very well. A ruffling foot is also great for these.
Medium-weight fabrics (like quilting cotton, linen) also gather well with the basting stitch method. They create gathers with more body.
Heavyweight fabrics (like denim, corduroy, velvet) are harder to gather. Basting threads can break. The zigzag over cord method is often the best choice for these. Differential feed on a serger might not gather them tightly enough.
Knit fabrics gather easily, especially with differential feed on a serger. Basting stitches also work but be careful not to stretch the fabric while sewing the basting lines.

Always test your gathering method on a scrap of your actual project fabric before sewing the real pieces.

Finishing Touches

After you have sewn your gathered piece into your project and removed the basting stitches (if you used them), press the seam. Decide which way you want the seam allowance to lie (usually towards the flatter piece, like the waistband). Press it neatly. This makes your gathers look much more professional.

Sometimes, for extra stability on waistbands or cuffs, you might sew a line of topstitching along the seam on the right side. This helps the seam stay flat and keeps the gathers pointing downwards.

Frequently Asked Questions

h3 What is the best stitch length for gathering?
The longest stitch length your sewing machine has is best for the basting stitch gathering method. This makes the stitches easy to pull.

h3 Do you need special sewing machine tension for gathers?
For the basting stitch method, loosening the top thread tension slightly (e.g., from 4 to 2 or 3) can make the top threads easier to pull, which helps in gathering fabric evenly. Test this on scraps first. For other methods like zigzag over cord or differential feed, normal tension is usually fine.

h3 How do you gather fabric evenly with a sewing machine?
The best way is to sew two parallel lines of long basting stitches. Sew them within your seam allowance, about 1/4 inch apart. Knot the threads at one end, and gently pull the top threads (or bobbin threads) from the other end, working the fabric along the threads to distribute the gathers smoothly. Pin well before sewing the final seam.

h3 Can I use a regular sewing foot for gathering?
Yes, you can use a regular sewing foot (the standard presser foot) for the basting stitch method and the zigzag over cord method. A special ruffling foot attachment is needed if you want the machine to gather the fabric automatically as you sew.

h3 What are the different types of machine gathering stitches?
The main methods use a long straight stitch (basting stitch) or a wide zigzag stitch (sewn over a cord). Sergers can also gather using their standard stitch with the differential feed turned up.

h3 Is a ruffling foot attachment the same as a gathering foot?
Yes, a ruffling foot is often also called a gathering foot. Some feet gather more than others; ruffling feet tend to create more pronounced gathers or even pleats, while a simple gathering foot creates softer gathers. The one you need depends on how much fullness you want.

h3 How much fabric do I need for gathers?
This depends on how full you want the gathers to be. A common rule is to use fabric that is 1.5 to 3 times wider than the finished gathered width. For example, to gather a piece to fit a 20-inch space, you might start with a fabric piece that is 30 to 60 inches wide. More width means more fullness.

h3 Can I gather very thick or heavy fabric with my machine?
Heavy fabrics are harder. Basting stitches might break. The zigzag over cord method is usually the best way to gather heavy fabric with a regular sewing machine.

h3 How do I gather knit fabric?
Knit fabric is often gathered easily with a serger using the differential feed setting (above 1.0). You can also use the basting stitch method with a regular machine, but be careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew the basting lines. Use a stitch that works for knits (like a slight zigzag or stretch stitch) if you’re worried about the basting lines breaking later, although they are usually removed.

Conclusion

Learning how to sew gathers with sewing machine is a simple skill that adds so much to your projects. The basting stitch method is a great place to start. Once you’re comfortable with that, explore tools like the ruffling foot attachment or differential feed gathering on a serger. Remember to test your sewing machine settings for gathers, especially the stitch length for gathering and sewing machine tension for gathers. With a little practice, you’ll be gathering fabric evenly like a pro, adding beautiful fullness and design to everything you sew. Happy sewing!