Master How To Hem A T Shirt With A Sewing Machine Easily

Want to fix a t-shirt hem? Or maybe make a custom shirt shorter? You can do it easily with your sewing machine! What is the best stitch for a t-shirt hem? The most popular choices are a stretch stitch or a double needle stitch because knit fabric stretches. A sewing machine hem t-shirt is totally possible, and we will show you how. Let’s get started and learn how to hem a t-shirt with a sewing machine.

Why Hem A T-Shirt?

Maybe your favorite shirt is too long. Maybe the old hem came out. Or maybe you want to give a plain shirt a new look. Learning how to sew a hem on a t-shirt helps you fix clothes. It also helps you make clothes fit just right. It’s a great skill for anyone who sews. Sewing knit fabric hem needs special care. Knit fabric stretches. It can curl. It can be tricky. But with the right steps, you can sew a nice, flat hem.

Getting Ready to Hem

Before you sew, get your workspace and tools ready. Having everything set up makes the job go smoother. This is true for any sewing project. It’s very true for hemming stretchy t-shirt fabric.

What You Need

Here is a simple list of what you should have ready:

Your T-Shirt: The one you want to hem.
Sewing Machine: Any standard machine will work.
Thread: Match the shirt color or pick a fun contrast. Use good quality thread. Polyester thread is often best for knits. It has some stretch.
Needles: This is very important for sewing knit fabric hem. You need special needles. More on this below.
Pins or Clips: To hold the hem fold in place. Clips are often better for knits. They don’t make tiny holes like pins can.
Fabric Scissors: Sharp ones to cut the fabric.
Measuring Tape or Ruler: To measure the hem.
Fabric Chalk or Washable Marker: To mark the fold line.
Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing is key.
Optional:
- Walking Foot: A special presser foot. We will talk about using walking foot knit hem later. It helps a lot.
- Double Needle: If you want a double needle t-shirt hem look. You need two spools of thread and a machine that can use a double needle.
- Stretch Twin Needle: A double needle made for stretchy fabric.
- Seam Ripper: Just in case you need to undo stitches.

Preparing the Fabric

Good prep work makes a big difference. This is especially true when hemming jersey fabric sewing machine.

Wash Your T-Shirt

Always wash your t-shirt before you hem it. Knit fabric can shrink. If you hem it and then wash it, the hem might get tight or wavy. Washing it first lets it shrink. Then you hem it at its final size.

Press the Fabric

Iron the bottom edge of your t-shirt. Get rid of any wrinkles. A smooth start helps you make a smooth hem. Pressing t-shirt hem well before you measure and fold is important.

Measuring and Marking the New Hem

Where do you want the new hem to be? Decide on the finished length.

Getting the Right Length

Try on the Shirt: Put the t-shirt on. Stand in front of a mirror.
Mark the Length: Use a pin or clip to mark where you want the finished hem to be. This is the line where the hem will end.
Take Off the Shirt: Lay the shirt flat.
Measure from the Pin: Use your ruler or tape. Measure from the pin up to the original hem (if it’s still there) or to the current edge. Write this number down.
Check Across the Shirt: Measure this distance in a few places across the shirt width. Make sure the line is straight. You can use your chalk or marker to make small marks at the new desired finished hem line.

Deciding the Hem Allowance

You need extra fabric to fold up for the hem. This is called the “hem allowance.”

A common hem allowance for t-shirts is 1 inch (about 2.5 cm).
This means you will fold the fabric edge up by 1 inch.

Marking the Cut Line

Now you need to mark where to cut.

Find the Finished Hem Line: This is where you put your first marks (where you want the hem to end).
Add the Hem Allowance: Measure down from this finished hem line by the amount of your hem allowance (e.g., 1 inch).
Mark the Cut Line: Draw a line across the shirt at this point. This is where you will cut.
Double Check: Measure from the finished hem line to the cut line in several spots. Make sure it’s a straight line.

Cutting the Fabric

Cut along the line you marked. Cut slowly and smoothly. Try not to stretch the fabric as you cut.

Folding the Hem

Now it’s time to make the fold for the hem.

Two Common Ways to Fold

Single Fold: Fold the cut edge up by the full hem allowance (e.g., 1 inch). The raw edge is now inside the fold. This is often done if you have a serger to finish the raw edge first.
Double Fold: This is more common for a regular sewing machine hem t-shirt.
- First, fold the cut edge up by half of your hem allowance (e.g., fold up 0.5 inches if your allowance is 1 inch).
- Press this fold gently.
- Then, fold up again by the same amount (another 0.5 inches).
- The raw edge is now hidden inside the double fold.

Pinning or Clipping the Hem

Once you have folded the hem (single or double), hold it in place.

Use pins or clips along the folded edge.
Pins should be put in at a right angle to the edge. This makes it easier to sew over them (though removing them before you sew over them is best).
Clips are great for knits. They hold the layers together without poking holes. They also don’t distort the fabric as much. Place clips every few inches around the hem.

Pressing the Fold

Press the folded hem really well. This helps the fabric stay in place as you sew. Pressing t-shirt hem after folding is a key step. It makes sewing much easier and helps prevent wavy t-shirt hem.

Picking the Right Needle and Thread

Using the correct needle and thread is vital for sewing knit fabric hem. The wrong ones can cause skipped stitches. They can also damage the fabric or make the hem wavy.

Needles for Knits

Knit fabric is made of loops. Regular sharp needles can break these loops. You need needles designed for knits.

Ballpoint Needle: This needle has a rounded tip. It pushes the fabric fibers aside instead of piercing them. This is good for stable knits like interlock or ponte.
Stretch Needle: This needle has a more rounded tip than a ballpoint. It also has a special eye and scarf (a groove behind the eye). These features help prevent skipped stitches on very stretchy fabrics like jersey, spandex, and lycra.
Size: Use a size that matches your fabric weight. A common size for t-shirts is 75/11 or 80/12. Thicker fabric needs a larger needle. Thinner fabric needs a smaller one.

Recommendation: For most t-shirt jersey fabric, a stretch needle is often the best choice to prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage.

Thread for Knits

Polyester thread is usually the best choice for sewing knit fabric hem.

It has some natural stretch. This lets the stitches stretch with the fabric.
Cotton thread does not stretch. It can break when the fabric is pulled.
Use a good quality thread. Cheap thread can break easily or cause lint buildup in your machine.

Choosing the Right Stitch

This is where you decide on the look and function of your sewing machine hem t-shirt. You need a stitch that can stretch with the fabric.

Best Stitches for T-Shirts

Okay, let’s really answer the question: What is the best stitch for a t-shirt hem? Here are the top options for a standard sewing machine:

Stretch Stitch (Triple Stretch Stitch):
- This stitch looks like a straight stitch but it sews each stitch three times. One forward, one back, one forward.
- This builds in extra thread length.
- It stretches very well.
- It is strong and durable.
- Look: It looks like a thick straight stitch from the top. It’s a single line of stitching.
- Why it’s good: Provides excellent stretch. Prevents stitches from popping when the shirt is pulled.
- Check your machine: Many machines have a specific stretch stitch setting. It might look like a wavy line or a lightning bolt shape on the stitch dial.
Double Needle Stitch:
- This stitch uses two needles side-by-side and one bobbin thread.
- Your machine must be able to use a double needle. Most modern machines can.
- When you sew, the two needles make two parallel lines of straight stitches on the top. The bobbin thread zig-zags between the two upper threads on the back.
- This zig-zag on the back gives the stitch its stretch.
- Look: Two neat, parallel rows of stitches on the outside. A zig-zag on the inside. This is the look you see on most store-bought t-shirts.
- Why it’s good: Looks very professional. Has good stretch because of the bobbin thread’s zig-zag.
- Setup: You need a double needle, two spools of thread, and usually an extra spool pin on your machine. Thread the machine following your manual for double needle use. Use a straight stitch setting, not a zig-zag stitch. The machine does the zig-zag on the bottom naturally. Make sure your stitch width is set so the needles do not hit the presser foot or needle plate opening.
Wide Zig-Zag Stitch:
- A regular zig-zag stitch can also work.
- Use a medium width and length. Don’t make it too wide or too tight.
- Look: A zig-zag line of stitches.
- Why it’s good: Provides stretch.
- Considerations: It doesn’t look like a professional t-shirt hem. It might not be as durable as a stretch stitch or double needle hem.
Serger (Overlocker):
- This is a special machine, not a standard sewing machine.
- It cuts the edge of the fabric and sews it with multiple threads at the same time.
- Many sergers have a “coverstitch” setting which creates the professional double-needle look on the top and a chainstitch on the bottom.
- Look: Can create a very professional finish.
- Why it’s good: Fast, trims the edge, provides excellent stretch.
- Considerations: Requires a separate machine. If you don’t have one, focus on the standard sewing machine options.

Summary for Best Stitch: For a professional look on a regular sewing machine, use a double needle. For a strong, simple, very stretchy stitch, use a stretch stitch.

Setting Up Your Sewing Machine

Before you start sewing, make sure your machine is ready.

Choose Your Presser Foot

Standard Foot: Your regular presser foot might work, but it can sometimes stretch out knit fabric as you sew.
Walking Foot: This foot has extra “feed dogs” on top. It helps feed the top layer of fabric through the machine at the same rate as the bottom layer (which is moved by the machine’s built-in feed dogs). This helps prevent the fabric from stretching or puckering as you sew. Using walking foot knit hem is highly recommended if you have one. It is a great tool for preventing wavy t-shirt hem.
Roller Foot or Knit Foot: Some machines have other specialized feet for knits. Check your manual.

Recommendation: Use a walking foot if you have one. If not, your standard foot might be okay, but be extra careful not to stretch the fabric.

Set the Stitch

Select the stitch you chose (stretch stitch, double needle setup, or wide zig-zag).

Adjust Stitch Length and Width

Stretch Stitch: The machine sets the length and width for you on most machines. Just select the stitch.
Double Needle: Set the stitch to a straight stitch. Adjust the stitch width (if needed) so the needles are centered over your hem allowance and clear of the presser foot opening. Adjust stitch length to a medium setting, like 2.5 or 3.
Zig-Zag: Set the stitch to a zig-zag. Set the width to around 2.5 to 3.5 mm. Set the length to around 2 to 2.5 mm. Test on a scrap first.

Check Tension

Thread tension is important. If the tension is too tight, it can cause the fabric to pucker or the stitches to break.

Test on Scrap: Use a scrap of the same t-shirt fabric. Fold and press it like you will the actual hem. Sew a test line.
Look at the Stitch:
- On a straight or stretch stitch: The stitches should look the same on the top and bottom. No loops on either side.
- On a double needle stitch: Two straight lines on top, a gentle zig-zag connecting them on the bottom. If the bottom thread is too tight and the fabric is puckering, lower the bobbin tension slightly (check your manual). If the top threads are looping on the bottom, increase the top tension.
- On a zig-zag stitch: The zig and zag should be even.
Stretch Test: Gently pull the fabric across the stitching line. Does the stitching stretch with the fabric? Do any stitches pop? If they pop, your stitch doesn’t have enough stretch, or your tension is too tight, or your needle is wrong.

Sewing the Hem

Okay, your machine is ready. Your hem is folded and pinned/clipped. Let’s sew!

Where to Start and End

It’s usually best to start sewing near a side seam.
On a t-shirt, the hem is a circle. You will sew all the way around and overlap your stitches slightly when you get back to where you started.

The Sewing Process

Place Fabric: Put the folded hem edge under the presser foot. Line up the edge of the fold with a guide on your presser foot or needle plate. This helps you sew a straight line. If you are using a double needle, decide how far from the folded edge you want the two lines of stitching to be. Line up the inner needle with that spot.
Lower the Foot: Lower the presser foot.
Start Sewing: Begin sewing. Most machines don’t need a backstitch at the start on a circular hem because you will overlap the stitches at the end.
Remove Pins/Clips: Remove pins or clips as you sew, before you reach them with the needle.
Sew Smoothly: Sew at a steady pace. Try not to push or pull the fabric. Let the machine feed the fabric. This is where using walking foot knit hem really helps. It helps feed the fabric evenly.
Gently Guide: Just gently guide the fabric to keep it straight. Don’t stretch the fabric as you sew! Stretching while sewing is a major cause of wavy t-shirt hem.
Sew All Around: Sew all the way around the hem circle.
Overlap Stitches: When you reach your starting point, sew over the first few stitches for about 0.5 to 1 inch (1-2 cm). This secures the end of your stitching.
Stop and Lift: Stop sewing with the needle down (if your machine does that) or lift the needle. Raise the presser foot.
Cut Threads: Pull the fabric out from under the foot and cut the threads. Leave tails about 4-6 inches long.

Finishing the Stitch Ends

For stretch stitches or double needle stitches, simply sewing over the start point is often enough to secure the stitch.

You can gently pull the thread tails to the inside if they are on the outside.
Trim the thread tails close to the fabric.
You can add a drop of fray check on the inside if you are worried about stitches coming undone, but with a good overlap on a stretch stitch or double needle, it’s usually not needed.

Preventing Wavy T-Shirt Hem

Sewing knits can be frustrating because they can get wavy or stretched out. Here’s a summary of how to prevent wavy t-shirt hem:

Use the Right Needle: A stretch needle is best.
Use the Right Thread: Polyester thread is best.
Use a Stretch Stitch or Double Needle: These stitches are designed to stretch.
Use a Walking Foot: This helps feed the fabric evenly.
Don’t Stretch the Fabric: Do not pull the fabric as you sew. Let the machine do the work. Just guide it gently.
Proper Tension: Make sure your tension is not too tight. Test on a scrap first.
Pressing is Key: Press the hem well before you sew. Pressing t-shirt hem before stitching helps it lay flat.

Pressing the Finished Hem

Once you are done sewing, the hem might look a little bumpy or not quite flat. The final step is to press it again.

Lay the t-shirt flat on your ironing board with the hem facing up.
Use a medium heat setting on your iron. Use steam if your fabric can handle it.
Press the hem flat from the outside.
Turn the shirt inside out and press the hem from the inside.
This final pressing melts the stitches into the fabric slightly and helps the hem lay smooth and flat. Pressing t-shirt hem again makes a big difference in the final look.

Hemming T-Shirt Sleeves

Hemming t-shirt sleeves sewing machine is just like hemming the bottom, but on a smaller circle.

Measure: Try on the shirt. Mark where you want the sleeve hem to be. Measure and mark the cut line, adding your hem allowance.
Cut: Cut off the extra fabric from the sleeve edge.
Fold: Fold the hem allowance up (single or double fold, usually double). Press the fold well.
Pin/Clip: Use pins or clips to hold the fold.
Choose Stitch/Needle/Thread: Use the same recommendations as for the bottom hem (stretch needle, polyester thread, stretch stitch or double needle).
Set Up Machine: Use a walking foot if you have one. Set your stitch and tension. Test on a scrap.
Sew: Start sewing near the underarm seam. Sew around the circle, removing pins/clips as you go. Sew slowly and don’t stretch the fabric. Overlap stitches when you get back to the start.
Press: Press the finished sleeve hem flat.

Hemming t-shirt sleeves sewing machine is a quick way to change the look or fit of a shirt.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with the right steps, you might run into issues. Here are a few common ones:

Wavy Hem

Issue: The bottom edge of the hem looks stretched out or wavy.
Fix:
* Did you stretch the fabric while sewing? Let the machine feed the fabric.
* Are you using a walking foot? It helps prevent this.
* Is your needle a stretch or ballpoint? A regular needle can stretch fabric.
* Is your tension too tight? Loosen the top tension slightly.
* Are you using a stitch that stretches (stretch stitch or double needle)? A regular straight stitch won’t work.
* Did you press the hem before sewing? Pressing helps set the fold.
* Did you press the hem after sewing? This can sometimes flatten out slight waviness.

Skipped Stitches

Issue: The stitching line has gaps where the machine missed a stitch.
Fix:
* Are you using the right needle? A stretch needle is usually the best fix for skipped stitches on jersey.
* Is the needle inserted correctly and all the way up?
* Is the needle bent or old? Change to a new needle.
* Is the machine threaded correctly? Rethread the machine with the presser foot up.
* Is your tension okay? Very loose tension can sometimes cause skipped stitches.

Fabric Bunching

Issue: The fabric is gathering or pushing together as you sew.
Fix:
* Is your tension too tight? Lower the top tension.
* Is your stitch length too short? Try a slightly longer stitch.
* Is your needle too large or too small for the fabric? Use a size 75/11 or 80/12 stretch needle for most t-shirts.
* Are you pushing the fabric through the machine? Let the machine feed it. Use a walking foot.

Mastering Your Hemming Skills

Practice makes perfect! Your first few hems might not be perfect. That’s okay. Try hemming old t-shirts to get the hang of it. Experiment with different stitches and tension settings on scraps.

Remember the key steps:

Prepare the fabric (wash, press).
Measure and mark carefully.
Use the right needle and thread (stretch needle, polyester thread).
Choose a stitch that stretches (stretch stitch or double needle).
Use a walking foot if possible.
Don’t stretch the fabric as you sew.
Press the hem well before and after sewing (pressing t-shirt hem is crucial!).

By following these steps, you will be able to create neat, stretchy, and professional-looking hems on all your t-shirts and other knit projects. You will master how to hem a t shirt with a sewing machine easily!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Here are answers to common questions about hemming t-shirts.

Q: My machine doesn’t have a “stretch stitch.” What should I use?
A: If your machine doesn’t have a dedicated stretch stitch, your next best option is often a narrow to medium zig-zag stitch. Set the width to around 2.5-3.5mm and the length to 2-2.5mm. Test on a scrap to make sure it stretches enough without puckering the fabric. Using a double needle is also a great option if your machine supports it.

Q: Can I use regular cotton thread?
A: It’s not recommended for the actual hem stitch on a t-shirt. Cotton thread doesn’t stretch. When you pull the shirt over your head or body, the cotton stitches can break. Polyester thread has stretch and is much better for knit hems.

Q: Do I really need a special needle? Can’t I just use a universal needle?
A: While you might get away with it on some very stable knits, using a ballpoint or, preferably, a stretch needle makes a huge difference. Universal needles have a sharper tip that can break the fibers of knit fabric, leading to skipped stitches or tiny holes that can run. A stretch needle is designed to work with the loops of knit fabric. It’s one of the simplest ways to prevent frustration when sewing knits.

Q: How wide should my double needle be?
A: Double needles come in different widths (distance between the two needles). Common widths are 2.5mm, 4.0mm, and 6.0mm. For t-shirt hems, a 2.5mm or 4.0mm width is usually best. Make sure the width you choose is not wider than the opening in your presser foot or needle plate.

Q: My hem is still a little wavy even after trying your tips. What else can I do?
A: Double-check all the steps again. Ensure you are using a stretch needle, polyester thread, and a stretch stitch or double needle. Make absolutely sure you are not pulling or stretching the fabric as you sew. If you have a walking foot, use it. Final pressing with steam can sometimes help flatten slight waviness. For very tricky knits, some sewers use fusible hemming tape (a stretchy iron-on tape) to help stabilize the hem before sewing.

Q: The edges of my double-folded hem feel a bit bulky. Is that normal?
A: Yes, a double fold can add some bulk, especially on thicker jersey fabric. If you have a serger, you can finish the raw edge first with a serged stitch and then do a single fold hem. This reduces bulk. If you don’t have a serger, pressing very well helps flatten the bulk. You could also try a narrower hem allowance (like 0.75 inches instead of 1 inch) which means less fabric is folded up.

You’ve got this! With the right tools and a little practice, sewing a perfect t-shirt hem with your sewing machine is an easy job. Happy sewing!