Your Simple Guide: How To Sew Leather With Sewing Machine

Yes, you absolutely can sew leather using a sewing machine, and it’s a great way to create strong, lasting projects! While sewing thick leather might need a heavy duty sewing machine, many regular machines can handle thinner leather and faux leather with the right tools and techniques. This guide will walk you through exactly what you need and how to do it, making it simple to start sewing leather projects today.

How To Sew Leather With Sewing Machine
Image Source: i.ytimg.com

What You Need To Sew Leather

Sewing leather on a machine is different from sewing fabric. Leather is not like cloth. It does not stretch or bounce back. It is tough and permanent. Once a needle goes through it, the hole is there forever. Because of this, you need special tools and settings.

Think of it like using the right tool for a tough job. Sewing leather needs a strong needle, the right kind of thread, and often a special foot to help the machine move the leather along. Getting these things ready is the first step.

Finding the Right Machine

Do you need a special heavy duty sewing machine for leather? It helps a lot, especially for thick leather. These machines are built strong. They have powerful motors and can handle thick materials easily. If you plan to sew things like bags, belts, or wallets made from thick leather, a heavy-duty machine is the best choice.

But what if you have a regular home sewing machine? You can still sew leather! You just need to know its limits. A standard machine can often sew thin garment leather, soft upholstery leather, or how to sew faux leather machine. It might struggle with very thick pieces or many layers.

Key things to check on your machine:

Motor Strength: Can it push a needle through tough stuff?
Presser Foot Lift: Can the foot lift high enough to get the leather under it?
Stitch Length: Can you set a longer stitch? Leather looks best with longer stitches.
Adjustable Foot Pressure: Can you make the foot press down less hard? This helps leather move better.

If your regular machine feels weak or struggles with thick fabric like denim or canvas, it might not be the best choice for leather, even thin types. But if it handles heavy fabrics well, you can likely sew thinner leathers.

Needles For Leather

The needle is one of the most important parts when you sew leather. A regular fabric needle will not work well. It can skip stitches, break, or damage the leather. You need a special leather sewing machine needle.

Different types of leather needles

Leather needles are different because of their point. They have a sharp, cutting point. This point is shaped like a small triangle or wedge. As the needle goes down, this point cuts a clean hole through the leather. This makes it much easier for the needle to pass through. It also creates a neat stitch.

The most common type is called a Leather point, Cutting point, or Wedge point needle.

Common Leather Needle Types:

Leather Point (LL, LR, SD): This is the standard cutting point. It makes a clean slit. Good for most leather types.
Triangle Point (S): Similar to Leather Point, makes a very clean cut.
Quilting/Microtex (Sharp) Needles: These are not leather needles, but they have very sharp points. They can sometimes work on very thin, soft leather or faux leather if a true leather needle is not available, but they don’t cut the leather like a proper leather needle. They might tear instead of cut on tougher leather.

Choosing the Right Size

Leather needles come in different sizes, just like fabric needles. The size you need depends on the thickness of the leather and the thread you are using.

Thinner Leather: Use smaller needle sizes (e.g., 90/14, 100/16).
Thicker Leather: Use larger needle sizes (e.g., 110/18, 120/19, 130/21).

A larger needle makes a bigger hole. This is good for thicker thread and thicker leather. But it also makes a more noticeable hole. Always use the smallest needle size that works well without breaking or skipping stitches.

Needles get dull quickly when sewing leather. Keep extra leather sewing machine needle needles handy. Change your needle often, maybe after each project or even sooner if you hear it struggling or skipping stitches. A fresh, sharp needle makes a big difference.

Picking the Best Thread

Just like needles, the right thread is key. Regular cotton or polyester thread used for clothes might not be strong enough for leather goods. Leather projects need tough thread that will not break or wear out easily.

What is the best thread for sewing leather?

Strong synthetic threads are usually the best choice. They resist rot, mildew, and stretching.

Top Choices for Leather Thread:

Nylon Thread: Very strong, durable, and a popular choice. Comes in different weights.
Polyester Thread: Also strong and durable. Often has a wax or glaze coating which helps it pass through leather smoothly. Bonded polyester is extra strong.
Specialty Leather Threads: Some threads are made just for leatherwork. They are often thick and strong.

Thread Size

Thread size matters too. Thicker threads create a stronger, more visible stitch, which looks nice on leather goods like bags or wallets. Thinner threads work for finer items or when you want the stitch to be less obvious.

Thicker Leather: Use thicker threads (e.g., T70, T90, T135 or heavier).
Thinner Leather or Faux Leather: Can use thinner threads (e.g., T45, T60, T70).

Make sure your needle size matches your thread size. A thick thread needs a large needle with a big eye so the thread can pass through easily without fraying.

You might also consider waxed thread. Wax helps the thread glide through the leather’s holes. It also adds strength and protects the thread. Some threads come pre-waxed. You can also buy unwaxed thread and run it over a block of beeswax yourself.

Machine Feet For Leather

Standard sewing machine feet are often made of metal or plastic. These can stick or drag on the surface of leather. Leather does not slide easily like fabric. It can grip the bottom of the presser foot. This stops the machine from moving the leather smoothly. You end up with uneven stitches or the machine just stops feeding the material.

To solve this, you need a special sewing foot for leather. The main goal of these feet is to help the leather glide instead of sticking.

The walking foot for leather

A walking foot is often called the best foot for sewing leather. Why? A regular presser foot just pushes down. The machine’s feed dogs under the fabric pull the material from the bottom. This works fine for fabric.

But with leather, the top layer can stick to the foot, while the bottom layer is being pulled by the feed dogs. This makes the layers move at different speeds.

A walking foot is different. It has its own set of ‘upper’ feed dogs or teeth. As the machine’s lower feed dogs pull the bottom layer, the walking foot’s upper part lifts and moves forward, helping to pull the top layer at the same time.

Benefits of a Walking Foot for Leather:

Even Feeding: Moves the top and bottom layers together.
Prevents Sticking: The foot lifts slightly with each stitch, reducing drag.
Handles Thickness: Good for sewing multiple layers or thicker leather.
Reduces Skipping: Helps the machine make stitches correctly by feeding the leather smoothly.

A walking foot is an attachment you buy for your specific sewing machine make and model. It is often chunky and looks more complex than a standard foot. If you plan to sew leather often, a walking foot is a great investment.

Other helpful sewing foot for leather options

Besides the walking foot, other feet can help, especially for thinner leather or faux leather:

Teflon Foot (Non-Stick Foot): This foot is coated with Teflon. It has a very slippery surface. It helps the leather glide smoothly under the foot. Good for leathers or faux leathers that are sticky on the right side. Less effective than a walking foot for very thick or multi-layered projects.
Roller Foot: This foot has small rollers on the bottom instead of a flat surface. The rollers turn as the leather moves. This reduces friction and helps the material feed. Can work well on smooth leathers or vinyls.

For how to sew faux leather machine, a Teflon foot or a roller foot often works very well, as faux leather surfaces can be quite sticky or plasticky.

Machine Settings For Leather

Getting the right machine settings is just as important as having the right needle and foot. Leather needs specific settings to sew correctly and look good. You cannot just use the same settings you use for cotton fabric.

Adjusting machine settings for leather

Here are the key settings you need to change:

Stitch Length: This is very important. Leather stitches should be longer than fabric stitches. If stitches are too short, you will make too many holes in the leather along the seam line. Too many holes close together can weaken the leather, making it tear easily along the seam. A good starting point is a stitch length of 3.5 mm to 4 mm or even longer (up to 5 mm or 6 mm for thick leather). Test on scraps to find the length that looks best and is strong.
Stitch Type: Use a straight stitch. Zigzag or other decorative stitches are generally not suitable for leather. They make too many holes. A straight stitch is the strongest and neatest for construction seams.
Tension: This can be tricky. Tension settings for leather need to be just right. The top thread and bobbin thread should meet evenly within the layers of the leather. If the tension is wrong, the stitches will look bad and the seam will not be strong.
- Top Tension Too Tight: The bobbin thread will show on the top of the leather. The seam might pucker.
- Top Tension Too Loose: The top thread will loop on the bottom of the leather. The seam will be weak.
- Bottom (Bobbin) Tension: Usually, you don’t need to change the bobbin tension unless you are using a very thick thread. If you do change it, make small adjustments and note the original setting.

Start with your machine’s normal tension setting (often around 4 or 5). Sew a test seam on scrap leather using your chosen needle and thread. Check the stitches on both the top and bottom. Adjust the top tension dial slightly and sew another test line. Keep testing and adjusting until the stitches look balanced on both sides.

Other Settings

Presser Foot Pressure: If your machine lets you adjust presser foot pressure, reduce it. Less pressure helps the leather feed more smoothly, especially with a walking foot or Teflon foot. If the foot presses down too hard, it can stop the leather from moving or leave deep marks.
Speed: Sew slowly. Leather is dense. Pushing the needle through takes effort. Sewing slowly gives the machine time to make each stitch correctly. It also gives you better control. Fast sewing can lead to skipped stitches, broken needles, or uneven lines.

Working With Different Leathers

Not all leather is the same. They come in different types, thicknesses, and finishes. This affects how you sew them.

Sewing thick leather machine vs. thin leather

Sewing thick leather is the most challenging. It requires the most from your machine and tools.

Tips for Sewing Thick Leather:

Machine: A heavy-duty machine is best. A strong motor is essential.
Needle: Use a large leather needle (size 110/18 or bigger).
Thread: Use thick, strong thread (T70, T90, T135+).
Foot: A walking foot is almost always needed.
Stitch Length: Use long stitches (4mm+).
Layers: Try to minimize the number of layers you sew at once. Trim seam allowances to reduce bulk where seams meet.
Before Sewing: You might need to thin the edges (skiving) where seams overlap to reduce thickness. Use a mallet to gently flatten bulky seams after sewing.
Test: Always test on scraps of the exact same leather and number of layers.

Sewing Thin Leather

Thin garment leather or very soft leather is much easier. It can often be sewn on a regular machine.

Machine: Most home machines can handle this.
Needle: Use a smaller leather needle (90/14 or 100/16). A sharp microtex needle might also work for very soft leather.
Thread: Use a medium weight thread (T45, T60).
Foot: A standard foot might work, but a Teflon foot or walking foot is still helpful to prevent sticking.
Settings: Use a slightly shorter stitch length than for thick leather (around 3mm-3.5mm), but still longer than for fabric.

How to sew faux leather machine

Faux leather (vinyl, pleather, etc.) is not real leather, but it shares some sewing challenges. It doesn’t stretch and the surface can be sticky.

Tips for Sewing Faux Leather:

Machine: Most home machines work fine.
Needle: Use a sharp needle. A Microtex (sharp) needle or a standard Universal needle might work best. A leather needle can sometimes cut it too much, depending on the type. Test on scraps! Sizes 80/12 or 90/14 are common.
Thread: Polyester thread is good.
Foot: A Teflon foot is excellent for sticky faux leather surfaces. A roller foot also works. A walking foot is helpful for multiple layers.
Settings: Use a medium stitch length (3mm-3.5mm).
No Pins! Pins leave permanent holes in faux leather. Use sewing clips (binder clips, wonder clips) to hold pieces together.
Pressing: Faux leather can melt! Press from the back on a very low heat setting with a pressing cloth, or use a seam roller to flatten seams instead of an iron.

Getting Ready to Sew

Good preparation makes sewing leather much easier and leads to better results. Remember, holes are permanent!

Cutting Leather

Cut leather carefully and accurately. Use sharp tools.

Rotary Cutter: Great for straight lines. Use a metal ruler and a cutting mat.
Leather Shears: Very sharp scissors made for leather. Don’t use them on fabric, and don’t use fabric scissors on leather – it will ruin them both!
Craft Knife/Utility Knife: Good for curves or detailed cuts. Use a strong ruler or template.

Always cut on a protective mat.

Marking Leather

Do not use pins or regular tailor’s chalk. Pins leave holes. Chalk rubs off easily and can be hard to remove from the surface.

Leather Marking Pen: Look for pens specifically made for leather that fade or can be wiped away. Test on a scrap first to make sure it disappears completely.
Scratch Awl: A sharp pointed tool to make light surface marks that don’t go all the way through. Use this only in areas that will be hidden in seams.
Templates: Cut out paper or cardboard patterns and trace around them carefully with a suitable pen or awl.
Masking Tape: Stick masking tape onto the leather and draw on the tape. Then sew along the tape line. Remove the tape carefully afterward.

Holding Pieces Together

Since you can’t use pins, how do you hold your leather pieces while you sew?

Sewing Clips: Binder clips, paper clips, or special fabric clips (like Wonder Clips) are excellent. They hold layers together at the edges without making holes.
Double-Sided Leather Tape: This tape is strong but can be sewn through. Place it within the seam allowance. It holds edges together neatly before sewing. Use tape sparingly as it can gum up your needle. Clean your needle with rubbing alcohol if it gets sticky.
Fabric Glue (Leather Specific): Use a special leather glue or fabric glue suitable for vinyl/leather in the seam allowance to hold tricky spots. Let it dry before sewing.

Sewing Techniques

Sewing leather requires a slightly different touch than fabric.

No Backstitching at Seam Start/End: Backstitching creates many holes in one spot, weakening the leather. Instead, leave long thread tails (about 4-6 inches). After sewing the seam, thread the tails onto a hand sewing needle and pull them through to the back of the leather. Tie them off securely by hand. This makes a strong, neat finish.
Sewing Curves: Sew slowly. Pivot the leather often with the needle down to turn corners smoothly.
Sewing Corners: When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down at the exact corner point. Lift the presser foot, turn the leather, put the foot back down, and continue sewing.
Starting a Seam: It can be hard for the machine to start right at the edge of thick leather. The feed dogs might not grab it. Try placing a scrap piece of leather or heavy fabric under the presser foot behind your starting point and feeding both through together to help the machine start.
Reducing Bulk: Leather is thick. Seams can get very bulky where multiple seams meet. Trim excess leather from seam allowances in corners. Gently tap bulky seams with a rubber mallet after sewing to flatten them.

Table: Quick Reference Guide

Task / Item	Recommendation For Leather	Notes
Sewing Machine	Heavy-duty best for thick; Regular fine for thin/faux.	Must have good motor, adjustable pressure, long stitch option.
Needle	Leather sewing machine needle (Wedge/Cutting point)	Use size 90/14 to 130/21 based on leather thickness. Change often.
Thread	Strong best thread for sewing leather: Nylon or Polyester	Use size T45 to T135+ based on leather/look. Waxed is good.
Presser Foot	Walking foot for leather is best; Teflon or Roller foot helpful for smooth/sticky leather.	Prevents sticking and uneven feeding.
Stitch Length	Long (3.5mm – 6mm+)	Prevents weakening leather; looks best.
Tension Settings	Test on scraps. Aim for balanced stitch. Start near mid-range.	Adjust top tension mostly. Match needle/thread size.
Marking	Leather pens, scratch awl (hidden areas), masking tape.	Do not use pins!
Holding Layers	Sewing clips, double-sided leather tape.	Do not use pins!
Starting/Ending	Leave thread tails, tie off by hand.	Do not backstitch!
Speed	Sew Slowly.	Allows needle to penetrate cleanly, gives control.
Thick Leather	Needs sewing thick leather machine, large needle/thread, walking foot, long stitch. Maybe skive edges.	Very demanding on machine.
Faux Leather	Use Sharp or Universal needle (test!), Teflon/Roller foot good, clips instead of pins.	Surface can be sticky or delicate. Test needle/foot.

Caring For Your Machine

Sewing leather is hard work for your sewing machine. The leather dust and tiny bits can get into the machine’s parts. Needles can break and cause damage.

Clean Often: After sewing leather, clean your machine thoroughly. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use a brush or vacuum attachment to remove dust and debris. Get into all the nooks and crannies.
Oil: Check your machine’s manual for oiling points. Leather sewing puts strain on the moving parts. Keeping them well-oiled helps the machine run smoothly and last longer.
Check for Damage: After a needle break or if the machine sounds strange, check for any damage to the needle plate, bobbin case, or feed dogs. Small burrs can snag thread.

Taking good care of your machine means it will be ready for your next leather project.

Mastering Tension Settings for Leather

Let’s look at tension again, as it’s a common sticking point. Getting the tension right is crucial for a strong and good-looking seam.

Imagine the top thread and the bobbin thread are like two people pulling on a rope. The seam in the leather is the middle of the rope. For a perfect stitch, the two threads should meet and “lock” right in the middle of the leather layers.

If the top tension is too strong (too tight), the top thread pulls the bobbin thread up into loops or straight lines on the top side of the leather. The seam will look puckered or have visible loops on top.
If the top tension is too weak (too loose), the bobbin thread stays loose, and the top thread forms loops on the bottom side of the leather. This is a weak seam.

How to Adjust Tension:

Load your machine with your chosen thread (same type in top and bobbin, unless specifically advised otherwise).
Thread the machine correctly.
Set your stitch length to about 4mm.
Get two scraps of the exact leather you are using, layered just like your project.
Sew a straight line.
Look at the stitches on both the top and bottom sides.
If you see loops on the bottom (top tension too loose): Increase the top tension dial number slightly (e.g., from 4 to 4.5).
If you see the bobbin thread showing on the top, maybe with puckering (top tension too tight): Decrease the top tension dial number slightly (e.g., from 4 to 3.5).
Sew another test line.
Repeat until the stitches look flat and even on both sides. The point where the threads meet should be hidden inside the leather.

Sometimes, especially with very thick threads, you might need to adjust the bobbin tension slightly. This is done using a small screw on the bobbin case. Only do this if necessary, and make very small turns. It’s best to mark the original position of the screw with a pen so you can return it to normal for sewing fabric. For most home sewing, adjusting the top tension is enough.

Using the correct needle size for your thread is also vital for good tension. If the needle eye is too small for the thread, it creates extra drag, which can make the top tension seem too tight even if the setting is correct.

Sewing Different Parts of a Project

Sewing long, straight seams is one thing. But what about corners, curves, and adding hardware?

Corners

Sewing around corners in leather requires careful control. Use your machine’s hand wheel for the last few stitches leading into the corner if you need to slow down even more than your minimum speed. Stop with the needle down exactly at the corner point. Lift the presser foot, pivot the leather neatly, lower the foot, and continue sewing. This creates a sharp, clean corner.

Curves

Sewing curves means you need to gently guide the leather. Sew slowly, using the hand wheel for tricky parts. Stop with the needle down often (every few stitches on tight curves) to lift the foot slightly and adjust the direction of the leather. This lets you ease the leather around the curve without distorting it or creating straight edges on the curve.

Adding Hardware

Before sewing areas that will have rivets, snaps, or other hardware, consider if you need to add stabilizer behind the leather where the hardware will be attached. A small piece of thick leather or fabric can add strength. Sew these areas carefully, potentially slowing down or hand-cranking over very thick spots.

Fixing Mistakes

Mistakes happen! But remember, holes are permanent in leather.

Unpicking Seams: If you must unpick a seam, do it very carefully. Use a seam ripper with a sharp point or small, sharp scissors. Remove the threads gently. The holes will remain. Sometimes, you can rub the leather surface or gently tap it with a mallet to help the holes close up a little, but they won’t disappear.
Covering Holes: If you have a mistake seam line, you might be able to cover the holes with a design element, a pocket, a strap, or by sewing a new, carefully placed seam line right over the old holes.
Test Before You Sew: This is the best way to avoid mistakes. Always sew a test seam on a scrap piece before sewing your actual project pieces. This lets you check your needle, thread, tension settings for leather, and stitch length.

Common Questions About Sewing Leather

Here are some questions people often ask about sewing leather with a machine.

FAQ

Q: Can I sew leather with a regular home sewing machine?
A: Yes, you can sew thinner leather, soft leather, and faux leather with a regular machine if it’s reasonably powerful and you use the correct leather needle, thread, and a suitable foot like a walking foot or Teflon foot. Thick, stiff leather usually requires a heavy-duty machine.

Q: What needle do I really need for leather?
A: You need a special leather sewing machine needle. It has a wedge or cutting point that cuts through the leather cleanly instead of just poking a hole. Using a regular needle will likely cause skipped stitches, broken needles, and damage to the leather.

Q: What is a walking foot and why is it good for leather?
A: A walking foot is a sewing machine attachment with its own set of upper feed dogs. It helps pull the top layer of material through the machine at the same speed as the bottom layer, which is moved by the machine’s built-in feed dogs. This prevents sticking, reduces skipped stitches, and helps feed thick or sticky materials like leather evenly.

Q: What is the best thread for sewing leather projects?
A: Strong synthetic threads like nylon or bonded polyester are best. They are durable, resist breaking, and stand up to wear and tear better than cotton. Choose a thread weight appropriate for the leather thickness – heavier threads for thicker leather.

Q: My machine is skipping stitches when I sew leather. What’s wrong?
A: This is usually caused by the wrong needle, a dull needle, or incorrect tension. Make sure you are using a sharp leather sewing machine needle of the correct size. Change your needle if it’s been used for a while. Check your tension settings for leather and test on scraps. A walking foot can also help prevent skipped stitches by feeding the leather smoothly.

Q: Why can’t I use pins on leather?
A: Pins leave permanent holes in leather because it doesn’t self-heal like fabric does. Use sewing clips or double-sided leather tape instead to hold pieces together before sewing.

Q: What machine settings for leather are most important?
A: The most important settings are using a long stitch length (3.5mm or more) to avoid weakening the leather, and getting the tension settings for leather right so the stitches are balanced and strong. Slowing down your sewing speed is also very helpful.

Q: Is sewing faux leather the same as real leather?
A: No, how to sew faux leather machine is similar in some ways (no pins, can be sticky, needs longer stitches than fabric) but different in others. Faux leather might melt under heat, often works better with a Sharp or Universal needle instead of a leather needle, and a Teflon foot is especially useful for its often sticky surface.

Q: How do I finish the ends of seams instead of backstitching?
A: Leave long thread tails (several inches) at the start and end of seams. After sewing, thread these tails onto a hand-sewing needle and pull them through to the back side of the leather. Tie them together securely by hand close to the leather surface. This creates a strong, neat finish without making extra holes from backstitching.

Sewing leather with your machine opens up a world of durable, beautiful projects. With the right preparation, tools, and a bit of practice on scraps, you’ll be sewing leather like a pro in no time! Enjoy making bags, wallets, accessories, and more that will last for years.