Can you hem jeans with a sewing machine? Yes, you absolutely can. Using a sewing machine is the standard and best way to hem jeans for a durable, professional-looking finish. You will need a few basic supplies, and we will show you exactly how to hem jeans using your sewing machine, covering two main methods: a simple double fold and keeping the original hem look.
Why Hem Jeans?
Sometimes jeans are just too long. Buying jeans that fit everywhere else but need length taken off is very common. Knowing how to hem them yourself saves money and lets you get the perfect fit. Maybe you want a different style, like cropped jeans. Hemming lets you change the length to suit your taste. It’s a practical skill for anyone who wears denim.
Getting Your Supplies Together
Before you start, make sure you have everything you need. Having the right tools makes the job much easier and helps you get a good result. Don’t skip this step!
Tools and Materials You Will Need
- Your jeans
- A sewing machine (It should be able to sew through thick fabric)
- A denim needle (This is key!)
- Strong thread for hemming jeans (Polyester or a special denim thread works well)
- Fabric scissors (Sharp ones!)
- Measuring tape or a ruler
- Tailor’s chalk, a fabric pen, or pins
- Straight pins
- An iron and ironing board
- A seam ripper (Just in case)
- Optional: A seam jumper or hump jumper tool (Very helpful for thick seams)
More About Specific Supplies
Using the right needle and thread is very important when working with denim. Denim is a thick, tough fabric. Regular needles can break or bend. Regular thread might not be strong enough and could snap.
- The Right Needle: A denim needle is specially made for heavy fabrics like denim. It has a sharp point and a strong shaft. This lets it push through the layers of fabric without breaking. Always use a new denim needle for each hemming project if you can. A fresh needle makes a big difference. Sizes like 90/14 or 100/16 are good choices.
- The Right Thread: You need strong thread for hemming jeans. Standard cotton thread is not the best. Polyester thread is strong and has a little stretch. Special denim thread is even stronger and often looks like the thread used on ready-to-wear jeans. Topstitching thread is thicker and great if you want the stitches to show more, but make sure your machine can handle it.
- Ironing: Pressing your folds makes a huge difference. It gives you crisp lines to follow with your sewing machine. Don’t skip the pressing steps.
Getting Your Machine Ready
Sewing denim requires specific adjustments to your sewing machine. These sewing machine settings for denim help prevent problems like skipped stitches or broken needles.
Adjusting Your Sewing Machine Settings
- Install the Needle: Put in your new denim needle. Make sure it is the right way around and pushed all the way up.
- Select the Thread: Thread your machine with the strong thread for hemming jeans. Use the same thread in the bobbin.
- Choose the Stitch: A straight stitch is what you need for hemming.
- Adjust Stitch Length: The standard stitch length for denim is usually a bit longer than for lighter fabrics. A length between 2.5 and 3.5 mm works well. A longer stitch looks more professional on denim and is less likely to cause your machine to struggle through thick spots.
- Adjust Tension: You might need to adjust your thread tension slightly. Test on a scrap of denim first. Stitches should look the same on both sides. If the bobbin thread loops on top, the top tension is too tight. If the top thread loops underneath, the bobbin tension is too tight.
- Adjust Presser Foot Pressure (If possible): Some machines let you change the pressure the presser foot puts on the fabric. Less pressure can help thick layers feed better.
Preparing Your Jeans
Before you measure or cut, prepare your jeans. This makes sure your measurements are accurate and the fabric is stable.
Washing and Pressing
Always wash and dry your jeans before hemming them. Jeans can shrink, especially in length, during the first few washes. Hemming pre-washed jeans means the hem won’t change length later. After washing, iron the bottom of the jeans flat. This removes wrinkles and makes it easier to measure and mark accurately.
Finding the Right Length: Measuring the Hem
This is a very important step. Take your time to get the length just right. Measuring jean hem correctly ensures your jeans will fit the way you want them to.
Steps for Accurate Measuring
- Put the Jeans On: Wear the jeans and the shoes you plan to wear with them most often. The heel height of your shoes affects how the hem falls.
- Fold and Pin: Stand in front of a mirror. Fold the bottom of one pant leg up to the desired length. Be sure the hem is even all the way around. Pin the fold in place. You might need someone to help you with this to get it right.
- Check the Length: Look at the pinned hem from different angles. Walk around a bit. Make sure you are happy with the length. Do the same for the other leg. Try to make both legs the same length.
- Mark the New Hem Line: Take the jeans off carefully so you don’t change the fold. Use tailor’s chalk or pins to mark the fold line all the way around the leg. This is your new hem line. Do this for both legs.
Method 1: The Simple Double Fold Hem
This is the most common way to hem pants. It creates a clean finish by folding the raw edge of the fabric twice. This is often called a double fold jean hem.
Steps for Making a Double Fold Hem
- Mark the Cut Line: Your marked line is where the bottom of the finished hem will be. For a double fold jean hem, you need to add extra fabric below this line for the folds. How much extra? This depends on how wide you want your finished hem. A typical jean hem is about 1/2 inch wide.
- First, add 1/2 inch below your marked line for the first fold. Mark this line.
- Then, add another 1/2 inch below that line for the second fold. Mark this third line.
- This means you need about 1 inch of fabric below your final hem line mark.
- Your cut line will be the lowest mark you made.
- Cut the Fabric: Lay the jeans flat. Use sharp fabric scissors to cutting jean hem along the lowest marked line. Cut carefully and evenly. Cut both legs. Discard the cut-off fabric.
- Press the First Fold: Fold the raw edge up by 1/2 inch towards the inside of the pant leg. Press this fold firmly with your iron. Do this all the way around both legs.
- Press the Second Fold: Now, fold the edge up again, another 1/2 inch, enclosing the raw edge inside the fold. Press this second fold firmly. The top edge of this fold should be right at your original marked hem line. Pin this folded hem in place all the way around. Use plenty of pins, especially at the side seams where it’s thick.
- Sew the Hem: Take your jeans to your sewing machine. Start sewing near a side seam. Sew close to the inside folded edge, about 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch away from the edge. Use your chosen sewing machine settings for denim and stitch length for denim.
- Sewing Through Thick Seams: The side seams of jeans are very thick. This is where hemming thick jean seams can be tricky. Go slowly. Do not force the fabric through the machine. If your machine struggles, try turning the handwheel manually for a few stitches. A seam jumper tool can help level the presser foot when going over these bumps. Place it behind or in front of the foot to keep it level.
- Finish Sewing: Sew all the way around the leg until you meet your starting point. Overlap your stitches by about 1/2 inch. Backstitch a few stitches to secure the end of the thread.
- Repeat for the Other Leg: Do the exact same steps for the second pant leg. Try to make the hem the same width and stitching distance from the edge as the first leg.
- Final Press: Once both hems are sewn, press them again. This helps the stitches sink into the fabric and gives the hem a neat, flat finish.
Method 2: Keeping the Original Look
Many people like the look of the original hem on their jeans. It often has special stitching or a faded look that is hard to copy. The original hem technique jeans, also known as preserving original jean hem, lets you keep that factory finish.
Steps for Preserving the Original Hem
This method involves cutting off the original hem and reattaching it higher up on the pant leg.
- Measure the Length (Same as Method 1): Put on the jeans and shoes. Fold up the pant leg to the desired length. Pin the fold. Mark the new hem line just like before. Do this for both legs. This marked line is where the bottom of your finished hem will be, just like in the simple fold method.
- Measure the Original Hem: Measure the height of the original hem you plan to cut off. Measure from the bottom edge of the original hem up to the stitching line of the original hem. This is usually around 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch. Let’s call this measurement “Hem Height.”
- Mark the Cut Line: This step is different from the simple hem. You need to cut above your marked new hem line.
- Your new hem line is where the bottom of the pant leg will sit.
- You will attach the original hem piece onto this line.
- So, measure up from your new hem line by the “Hem Height” you measured in the previous step. Mark this as your cut line.
- Example: If your new hem line is marked, and your original hem was 1/2 inch tall (Hem Height = 1/2 inch), you will mark your cut line 1/2 inch above the new hem line.
- Cut the Fabric: Carefully cutting jean hem along the marked cut line. Cut straight and evenly. Cut both legs. Keep the original hem pieces you cut off – you need them! Discard the middle part of the pant leg you cut off.
- Prepare for Sewing: Turn the main part of the jeans leg inside out. Take one of the original hem pieces. Place the original hem piece around the bottom of the inside-out pant leg. The right side of the original hem piece should face the wrong side of the pant leg. The raw edge of the original hem piece should line up with the raw edge of the pant leg. Pin them together all the way around. Line up the side seams of the original hem piece with the side seams of the pant leg.
- Sew the First Seam: Sew a seam joining the original hem piece to the pant leg. Sew 1/2 inch from the raw edge (or whatever seam allowance equals your “Hem Height” measurement). Use your sewing machine settings for denim, strong thread for hemming jeans, and a good stitch length for denim. Go slowly, especially over the hemming thick jean seams. A seam jumper is very useful here.
- Press the Seam: Press the seam you just sewed upwards, towards the main part of the pant leg.
- Prepare for Topstitching: Flip the pant leg right side out. The original hem should now be hanging down correctly. Fold the seam allowance you just pressed up inside the pant leg. The folded edge of the main pant leg fabric should now meet the original hem.
- Topstitch the Hem: You will now sew a stitch on the right side of the jeans, close to the original hem stitching line. This stitch holds the original hem in place and finishes the inside edge.
- Using your machine, sew right next to the original stitch line on the hem piece. This topstitch will catch the folded-up raw edge on the inside.
- Keep your stitching line even all the way around. This requires practice.
- Again, slow down for the hemming thick jean seams. Use a seam jumper if needed.
- Sew all the way around, overlapping stitches at the start and end. Backstitch to secure.
- Finish the Inside Edge: The cut edge of the main pant leg fabric inside the hem is now enclosed by the topstitching. To make it neat and prevent fraying, you can finish this edge.
- You can use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine along this raw edge.
- Or, if you have a serger, you can serge the edge.
- Or, you can press it up and stitch it down (though the topstitching often holds it).
- Repeat for the Other Leg: Do all the steps for the second leg, making sure it matches the first.
- Final Press: Press the finished hem firmly.
Comparing the Two Methods
| Feature | Simple Double Fold Hem | Preserving Original Hem |
|---|---|---|
| Look | Clean, modern, two lines of stitching | Keeps factory look, often faded/distressed |
| Difficulty | Easier, good for beginners | More steps, trickier to line up |
| Bulk at Seams | Can be very bulky (4 layers + seams) | Still bulky, but sometimes less total layers |
| Fabric Used | Uses fabric cut from the leg | Uses the original hem piece |
| Time | Faster | Takes longer |
Both methods are good. The best one for you depends on your skill level and the look you want for your jeans.
Fixing Little Problems: Troubleshooting
Even with the right setup, you might run into issues. Knowing how to fix them helps you finish your project successfully. Here are common problems when hemming thick jean seams.
- Needle Breaks: You’re probably using the wrong needle, the needle is old/bent, or you’re trying to sew too fast through a thick spot.
- Fix: Make sure you are using a sharp denim needle of the right size (90/14 or 100/16). Slow down when sewing over seams. Use the handwheel for the thickest parts. Replace the needle often.
- Skipped Stitches: This often means the machine is having trouble picking up the thread. This can be caused by a wrong needle, wrong thread, or tension problems.
- Fix: Check your denim needle is in correctly and is not bent. Make sure you are using strong thread for hemming jeans and it is threaded right. Check your sewing machine settings for denim, especially tension.
- Machine Stops or Jams: Trying to push too much fabric through, wrong settings, or a dull needle can cause this.
- Fix: Don’t force the fabric. Use a seam jumper tool to help the presser foot over thick areas. Check your stitch length for denim is long enough (2.5-3.5mm). Make sure your denim needle is sharp.
- Uneven Stitches: Tension issues, incorrect stitch length, or not guiding the fabric smoothly.
- Fix: Check your tension settings. Make sure your stitch length for denim is appropriate. Guide the fabric gently; don’t push or pull hard.
- Hem Isn’t Lying Flat: Usually caused by not pressing enough or not folding accurately.
- Fix: Press each fold carefully as you go. Use lots of pins to hold the folds in place before sewing.
Tips for Handling Thick Seams
- Slow and Steady: Sew very slowly over the side seams.
- Handwheel: Turn the handwheel by hand for two or three stitches right at the thickest point.
- Seam Jumper: This small plastic tool helps level the presser foot when it goes up onto a thick seam. You place it behind the foot to raise it before it hits the seam.
- Hammer It: Believe it or not, you can gently hammer the side seams flat before sewing. Protect the fabric with a cloth. This compresses the layers a bit.
- Adjust Settings: Sometimes slightly reducing presser foot pressure helps. Make sure your stitch length for denim is not too short.
Getting a Nice Finish: Professional Tips
Here are a few extra things to do for a truly professional-looking hem.
- Press, Press, Press: Pressing is your friend! Press after cutting, after folding, after sewing. It makes everything lie flat and look neat.
- Use Matching or Contrasting Thread: For the original hem method, try to match the color of the original topstitching thread. For a simple hem, you can match the fabric color or use a contrasting color for a decorative touch. Using strong thread for hemming jeans is important for durability regardless of color.
- Practice on Scraps: If you’re new to hemming or trying the original hem method, practice on denim scraps first. This helps you get your sewing machine settings for denim right and practice hemming thick jean seams.
- Check Both Legs: After hemming, measure both legs again to make sure they are the same length. Make small adjustments if needed.
Taking Care of Your Hemmed Jeans
Once your jeans are hemmed, you can wash and dry them as usual. The strong thread and proper stitch length mean the hem should hold up well. If you used the original hem method, the reattached hem might look slightly different after washing than the rest of the jeans initially, but it will blend in over time.
Asking Common Questions (FAQ)
Here are answers to questions people often ask about hemming jeans.
Q: Do I really need a denim needle?
A: Yes, it is highly recommended. A denim needle is stronger and sharper and less likely to break or skip stitches when sewing through thick denim layers, especially at the side seams.
Q: Can I use regular thread?
A: You can, but it is not recommended for durability. Regular thread is more likely to break over time, especially on high-wear areas like hems. Use strong thread for hemming jeans like polyester or denim thread for a hem that lasts.
Q: My machine is struggling with the thickness. What can I do?
A: Make sure you are using the right sewing machine settings for denim, a new denim needle, and strong thread for hemming jeans. Increase your stitch length for denim. Sew slowly, especially over the thick side seams. Use a seam jumper tool or turn the handwheel manually for a few stitches at the thickest points.
Q: How do I make sure both legs are the same length?
A: Measure carefully while wearing the jeans and shoes. Mark clearly. Measure again after cutting to make sure your cut lines are even. After sewing, measure the finished inseam of both legs to double-check.
Q: What is the best stitch length for denim?
A: A stitch length between 2.5mm and 3.5mm is generally best for denim. A longer stitch is stronger and looks better on denim than a short stitch.
Q: Is it hard to do the original hem technique jeans?
A: It is a bit more advanced than a simple double fold hem because you have to reattach a piece and line it up. It takes more steps and careful measuring and cutting. Practice on scraps first if you are unsure.
Q: What if the original hem thread color is hard to match?
A: Get as close as you can. Sometimes the original thread is a specific gold or orange color. Many brands sell thread specifically for hemming jeans that matches these colors. If you can’t find an exact match, choose a color that blends in well with the fabric or one that you like as a contrast.
You Did It!
Learning to hem jeans with your sewing machine is a great skill. It lets you make clothes fit perfectly and saves you money. Whether you choose the simple double fold jean hem or the original hem technique jeans (preserving original jean hem), taking the time to use the right tools like a denim needle and strong thread for hemming jeans, setting up your sewing machine settings for denim correctly, and handling hemming thick jean seams carefully will give you a result you can be proud of. Practice makes perfect, so don’t worry if your first try isn’t perfect. You’ll get better with each pair you hem!