Sewing patterns tell you how to make clothes or other things from fabric. They are like a map and instructions combined. They show you the shape of each piece you need to cut from your fabric. They also tell you how to put those pieces together. Basic sewing pattern terminology includes words like grainline, selvage, cutting line, sewing line, and notch. No, you cannot cut fabric without pinning pattern pieces. Pinning holds the paper pattern pieces onto the fabric so you can cut the right shapes.
Using a pattern helps you make a project that fits and looks good. Without one, it is hard to get the shapes right. Patterns save you time and waste less fabric. They guide you from start to finish. If you want to sew clothes, bags, or home decor, learning to follow patterns is a key step.
Picking Your First Pattern
Starting to sew? Pick an easy pattern. Pattern companies rate patterns by skill level. Look for patterns marked “Easy” or “Beginner.” These patterns often have few pieces and simple steps. Projects like simple skirts, basic tops, tote bags, or pillow covers are good first choices.
Think about the fabric the pattern suggests. Some patterns work best with certain fabrics. Cotton is usually easy to sew. Silky fabrics can be slippery and harder. Choose a fabric that matches the pattern and is easy for beginners.
Reading the Pattern Envelope
The pattern envelope is full of helpful information. Think of it as the cover of a book. It tells you what is inside.
Front of the Envelope
The front shows a picture or drawing of the finished project. It gives the pattern number. It also tells you the brand name, like Simplicity, McCall’s, Butterick, or Vogue. Look for the skill level here too.
Back of the Envelope
The back has much more detail. It is very important to read this part.
- Description: It tells you what the project is. It might list different versions you can make from this one pattern. Like a dress with different sleeve options.
- Sizing: This is very important for clothes. It shows a chart with body measurements and the pattern sizes that match. We will talk more about sizing soon.
- Fabric Suggestions: It lists the kinds of fabric that work well with this pattern. Using a fabric not on this list might make the project not turn out right.
- Notions List: Notions are the extra things you need besides fabric. This list might include zippers, buttons, elastic, thread, trim, or interfacing. Buy these when you buy your fabric.
- Yardage Chart: This chart tells you how much fabric to buy. It lists the amount needed for each size and often for different fabric widths. Fabric comes in rolls of different widths, like 45 inches or 60 inches. Check the width of your fabric before looking at this chart. Buy a little extra just in case.
- Finished Garment Measurements: Some patterns include this. It tells you the size of the finished item. This is helpful for choosing size based on how loose or tight you want the fit.
Deciphering Pattern Sizes
Choosing the right pattern size is different from buying ready-made clothes. Pattern companies use different size charts. Your size in one brand might be different in another.
How to Choose the Right Pattern Size
- Measure Your Body: Use a soft tape measure. Measure directly on your body, but do not pull the tape tight.
- Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest.
- Waist: Measure around the narrowest part of your torso. This is usually near your belly button.
- Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips and rear end.
- Back Waist Length: Measure from the bone at the back of your neck down to your natural waistline. This helps with fitting tops and dresses.
- Inseam: For pants, measure from your crotch down to where you want the pants hem to end.
- Compare to the Size Chart: Look at the size chart on the pattern envelope back. Find your measurements on the chart.
- Pick Your Size: Your measurements might fall into different sizes for bust, waist, and hips.
- For tops and dresses, use your bust measurement to choose the size.
- For skirts and pants, use your hip measurement.
- You might need to adjust the pattern later to fit your waist. Pattern sizes are based on standard body shapes. Few people fit perfectly into one size. It is okay!
- Consider Ease: Patterns include extra room for movement. This is called “ease.” The pattern description might tell you if it has a lot of ease (loose fit) or little ease (tight fit). Do not choose a size smaller thinking it will fit better; the pattern is made with ease in mind. If you are between sizes, pick the larger size. It is easier to make something smaller than bigger.
Layout of Pattern Pieces
Inside the envelope, you find many pieces of thin tissue paper. These are your pattern pieces. Each piece is a specific part of the project, like a sleeve, a pant leg, or a pocket.
Identifying Pattern Pieces
Each paper piece has writing and symbols on it.
- Pattern Number and View: The pattern number you saw on the envelope is on each piece. If the pattern has different styles (View A, View B), the view letter will be there too. Make sure you have the right pieces for the view you want to make.
- Piece Name: It says what the piece is, like “Front Bodice,” “Back Skirt,” or “Sleeve.”
- Size Lines: Patterns often include multiple sizes on one piece. Each size has its own cutting line. Lines for different sizes might be different patterns, like dashed, solid, or dotted. Find the line for the size you chose.
Reading the Pattern Instructions
Pattern instructions are usually printed on a large sheet of paper inside the envelope. They tell you how to cut the fabric and sew the pieces together step by step.
Interpreting Sewing Pattern Instructions
The instructions are written in order. Start at step one and follow along.
- Front Page: This usually has a list of the pattern pieces for each view. Check that you have all the pieces you need. It might also show diagrams of the pattern pieces.
- Cutting Layouts: This is a very important section. It shows you how to place the paper pattern pieces on your fabric before cutting. There are different layouts depending on your fabric width and size.
- Fabric is often folded in half lengthwise. The layouts show you how to fold your fabric.
- They show you where to place each pattern piece.
- Pay close attention to the grainline.
- Sewing Steps: These are step-by-step directions for sewing the fabric pieces together.
- Each step usually has text explaining what to do.
- There are often small diagrams to show you what it should look like.
- Read the steps carefully before you start sewing.
- They tell you which pieces to sew together and how.
- They tell you about seams, finishing edges, adding zippers or buttons, and hemming.
Basic Sewing Pattern Terminology
Here are some words you will see often in pattern instructions and on the pattern pieces:
- Grainline: A long line with arrows on both ends on a pattern piece. This line must be placed parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. This makes sure the fabric drapes correctly. (More on this soon!)
- Selvage: The finished edge of fabric that runs along its length. It does not fray.
- Fold: A line or arrow indicating that this edge of the pattern piece should be placed exactly on the fold of the fabric.
- Cutting Line: The outermost line on a pattern piece. This is where you cut the fabric. It includes seam allowance.
- Sewing Line (or Stitching Line): An inner line, usually dashed or dotted, that shows where you will sew the seam. This line is one standard seam allowance width (like 5/8 inch or 1.5 cm) inside the cutting line.
- Seam Allowance: The distance between the cutting line and the sewing line. This is the extra fabric outside the stitching line. Patterns include this amount, so you do not need to add it yourself. Standard seam allowance is often 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
- Notches: Small marks on the edges of pattern pieces. They look like triangles, diamonds, or straight lines. You cut tiny snips or triangles into the fabric at these points. Notches help you match up the right edges of pieces when sewing them together.
- Dots or Circles: Small circles or dots printed on the pattern piece. These are other types of markings. They might show dart points, pocket placement, buttonhole placement, or where to gather fabric.
- Darts: Folded and stitched fabric that tapers to a point. Darts help shape flat fabric to fit body curves, like the bust or waist.
- Ease: Extra room in the garment beyond your body measurements. This allows you to move and sit comfortably.
Deciphering Pattern Symbols
Sewing pattern symbols are like a secret language. Once you know what they mean, you can read any pattern piece.
Sewing Pattern Symbols Explained
Here are common symbols you will find on pattern pieces:
| Symbol | Meaning | What to Do |
|---|---|---|
--- (Dashed Line) |
Sewing Line (Stitching Line) | This is where you sew. It is inside the cutting line. |
----- (Solid Line) |
Cutting Line | Cut along this line. |
<- -> (Line with Arrows) |
Grainline | Place this line parallel to the selvage of your fabric. |
[--] (Bracket with arrow inside) |
Place on Fold | Place this edge of the pattern piece exactly on the folded edge of fabric. |
^ or ^^ or ^^^ (Single, Double, Triple Marks) |
Notches | Cut small snips or triangles into the fabric edge here. Match notches when sewing. |
o (Small Circle) |
Dot | Transfer this mark to your fabric. Used for matching or placement. |
• (Large Circle) |
Dot (Often used same as small circle, or for gathers/fullness) | Transfer this mark. |
+ (Cross) |
Dot/Placement Mark | Transfer this mark. |
\/ (Diamond) |
Notch or other mark | Similar to notches or dots for matching or placement. |
| Arrow pointing to curved line | Gathering or Ease Stitching | Sew a line of loose stitches here to pull fabric to a shorter length. |
| Solid Line with crossbars | Buttonhole Placement | Marks where to create a buttonhole. |
X (Cross) |
Button Placement | Marks where to sew a button. |
| Double lines close together | Fold Line (for hems, facings) | Marks where to fold fabric, often for finishing an edge. |
Learn these symbols. They are the same across most pattern companies.
Grasping the Grainline
The grainline is perhaps the most critical marking on a pattern piece. Ignoring it can make your finished project hang or fit strangely.
Grainline on Sewing Patterns Explained Simply
Fabric is made of threads woven together.
* Threads running lengthwise down the fabric roll are called the warp. These are strong and straight.
* Threads running across the width of the fabric are called the weft or crossgrain.
* The selvage is the tight, finished edge along the length where the warp threads are.
* The straight grain (or lengthwise grain) is parallel to the selvage.
* The crossgrain is perpendicular (at a right angle) to the selvage.
* The bias is a 45-degree angle to the selvage. Cutting on the bias makes fabric stretchy and drapey.
The grainline symbol on a pattern piece is an arrow that shows you how to place the piece on your fabric. The arrow must line up perfectly with the straight grain of the fabric.
Why Grainline Matters
- Drape: Fabric hangs differently depending on how it is cut relative to the grain. Cutting on the straight grain gives a stable hang. Cutting on the bias gives a flowing, stretchy hang.
- Stretch: Woven fabric has very little stretch on the straight grain, some stretch on the crossgrain, and the most stretch on the bias. Placing a pattern piece incorrectly can make a part of your garment stretchy when it should be stable, or vice versa.
- Fit: If you do not follow the grainline, a garment might twist, pull, or not hang correctly on your body. A pant leg might spiral, or a shirt might feel tight in strange places.
- Look: Patterns in the fabric, like stripes or plaids, need to be cut on the correct grain to look right.
How to Use the Grainline
- Find the grainline marking on your pattern piece.
- Find the selvage edge of your fabric.
- Place the pattern piece on the fabric. Do not pin it yet.
- Measure the distance from one end of the grainline arrow to the nearest selvage edge.
- Measure the distance from the other end of the grainline arrow to the same selvage edge.
- Adjust the pattern piece until both measurements are exactly the same. This ensures the grainline on the pattern is perfectly parallel to the straight grain (selvage) of the fabric.
- Once the grainline is correct, you can start pinning the rest of the pattern piece.
Prepping and Laying Out Fabric
Before you place your pattern pieces, prepare your fabric.
Preparing Your Fabric
- Pre-wash: Always wash and dry your fabric the way you will wash the finished garment. Fabric shrinks. If you do not pre-wash, your finished project might shrink the first time you wash it and not fit anymore.
- Iron: Iron your fabric flat and smooth. Creases or wrinkles will make it hard to cut accurately.
- Find the Grain: After washing and drying, the fabric might be off-grain. You can usually straighten it by pulling on the bias corners. Look up “straightening fabric grain” if you need help with this.
Laying Out Pattern Pieces For Cutting
The cutting layout diagram in the instructions shows you exactly how to place your pattern pieces on the fabric. Follow it closely!
- Check Your Fabric Width: The layouts are for specific fabric widths (like 45″ or 60″). Use the layout that matches your fabric.
- Fold the Fabric: The diagram will show you how to fold your fabric. Common folds are:
- Lengthwise Fold: Fabric is folded in half with the selvages together. This is the most common fold.
- Crosswise Fold: Fabric is folded in half from one cut end to the other.
- Double Fold: Fabric is folded lengthwise, then folded lengthwise again.
- Single Layer: Some pieces might need to be cut from a single layer of fabric, not folded.
- Follow the Diagram: Place each pattern piece on the fabric as shown in the diagram. Pay attention to:
- Which edge goes on the fold.
- Which edge goes on the selvage.
- Making sure grainlines are parallel to the selvage.
- The diagram helps you fit all the pieces on the fabric and saves fabric.
How to Pin Sewing Pattern Pieces
Pinning holds the pattern paper onto the fabric. This keeps the paper from shifting while you cut.
Pinning Steps
- Place the pattern piece on the fabric according to the cutting layout and grainline.
- Start pinning in the middle of the pattern piece.
- Pin along the edges, placing pins about every 6-8 inches.
- Place pins mostly inside the cutting line, in the seam allowance area. This is so your scissors do not hit the pins directly when you cut.
- Use enough pins to keep the paper flat and the edges secure, but not so many that it is hard to cut.
- For curved edges, use more pins to help the paper lie smoothly.
Cutting Fabric with Sewing Patterns
Cutting is where your project takes shape! Use sharp fabric scissors. Do not use these scissors for paper, as it will make them dull.
How to Cut Fabric
- Lay the pinned fabric and pattern piece flat on a table or hard surface.
- Use good fabric shears. Hold the fabric down with one hand.
- Cut smoothly along the cutting line of the pattern piece. Follow the line for the size you chose.
- Cut around curves slowly and carefully.
- When you get to notches, snip a small V-shape outwards away from the pattern piece edge, or a small line inwards into the seam allowance. Be careful not to snip too far into the main part of the pattern piece.
- Cut out all your pattern pieces. Keep the paper pinned to the fabric pieces until you are ready to transfer the markings.
Transferring Pattern Markings
Pattern pieces have markings like dots, circles, or triangles in the middle or away from the edges. These marks tell you important things like dart points, pocket placement, or where pieces meet. You need to copy these marks onto your fabric pieces.
Sewing Pattern Markings Explained
Besides the cutting line, sewing line, grainline, and notches, look for these internal markings:
- Dots/Circles: These are common for matching points, dart points, or placement guides.
- Triangles: Similar to dots, used for matching points or placements.
- Squares or Crosses: Also used for placement or matching.
- Darts: Marked with lines showing the fold and stitching line for the dart.
- Pleats: Marked with lines indicating where to fold the fabric for a pleat.
- Buttonhole Markings: Show the start and end of a buttonhole.
- Pocket Placement: Outlines or dots showing where a pocket should go.
How to Transfer Markings
Do this before you remove the paper pattern from the fabric piece.
- Tracing Wheel and Carbon Paper: Place special dressmaker’s carbon paper between the pattern and the fabric. Use a tracing wheel to roll over the pattern markings. The wheel transfers the marks onto the fabric. Use light pressure. Use different color carbon paper for different fabric colors.
- Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Pens: Poke through the pattern marking with a pin or sharp object. Lift the pattern slightly and mark the fabric lightly with chalk or a fabric pen at that spot. For lines (like darts), you might need to mark both ends and connect them.
- Thread Tracing (Tailor’s Tacks): Use a needle and thread. Sew a few loose stitches through the pattern paper and all layers of fabric at the marking point. Leave loops of thread. When you remove the paper, snip the threads between the layers of fabric. This leaves small tufts of thread on each fabric layer, marking the spot. This is good for delicate fabrics.
Choose a method that works for your fabric. Test the marking tool on a scrap of fabric first to make sure it shows up and can be removed or will not show on the finished project. Transfer all necessary markings! They are your guides for sewing.
Following the Sewing Steps
Now that your fabric is cut and marked, it is time to sew. Go back to the pattern instruction sheet.
- Read Ahead: Read the next few steps before you start sewing. This helps you understand where you are going.
- Follow in Order: The steps are in a specific order for a reason. Skipping steps or doing them out of order can make it hard to finish or make mistakes.
- Refer to Diagrams: Look at the small pictures next to the steps. They show you how pieces should fit together.
- Use the Seam Allowance: Sew along the sewing line (if marked) or use the specified seam allowance distance from the raw edge. For example, if the pattern says “stitch with 5/8 inch seam allowance,” line up the raw edge of your fabric with the 5/8 inch mark on your sewing machine’s plate.
- Match Notches and Markings: This is where your transferred markings and notches are key! Match up notches on two pieces before you sew that seam. Match dots or other marks. This ensures the pieces fit together correctly.
- Pressing: The instructions will tell you when to press your seams. Pressing is very important in sewing. It makes seams flat and smooth. Press seams open or to one side as directed. Pressing as you go makes a big difference in the final look of your project.
- Troubleshooting: If something does not look right, stop. Reread the step. Look at the diagram. It is easier to fix a mistake early than later.
Getting Comfortable
Using sewing patterns gets easier with practice. Do not expect your first project to be perfect. Each pattern you follow teaches you more.
- Start with simple projects.
- Read everything on the envelope and instructions before you start.
- Measure yourself carefully.
- Pay close attention to the grainline and cutting layout.
- Transfer all markings.
- Follow the instructions step by step.
- Press your seams!
Sewing from patterns is a rewarding skill. It lets you create things exactly how you want them, in your size, and with your chosen fabric. Enjoy the process!
Frequently Asked Questions
H5 What is seam allowance?
Seam allowance is the extra fabric between the cutting line and the stitching line on a pattern piece. It is the part you do not sew through. It is needed to join fabric pieces together. Most patterns use a standard seam allowance like 5/8 inch (1.5 cm), but it can vary.
H5 Can I use any fabric with any pattern?
No. Patterns are designed for certain types of fabric. For example, a pattern for stretchy knit fabric will not work well with stiff woven fabric. The pattern envelope lists suggested fabrics. Using a different fabric might change how the garment fits and hangs.
H5 What if my measurements are between sizes?
It is usually best to choose the larger size if your measurements fall between two sizes. It is easier to take a garment in (make it smaller) than to let it out (make it bigger) if it is too tight. You can adjust the pattern or sew seams slightly wider to make it smaller.
H5 Why do patterns have so many pieces?
Each pattern piece is a different part of the finished item. A simple skirt might have just a few pieces (front, back, waistband). A complex jacket might have many pieces (front, back, sleeves, collar, cuffs, pockets, lining). More pieces allow for more shaping and detail.
H5 How do I store my patterns?
After using a pattern, you can fold the pieces back up and put them back in the envelope. To help them last longer, you can iron the tissue paper on a low heat setting to flatten the folds. Store envelopes in a box or filing cabinet away from moisture.
H5 What if the pattern instructions are confusing?
Sometimes pattern instructions use terms you do not know or steps that are hard to picture. Look up sewing terms online. Many sewing blogs and videos explain common techniques mentioned in patterns, like how to insert a zipper or sew a dart. Take it slow and look at the diagrams carefully. You can also ask for help in sewing groups or forums.