Do you want to make a sewing pattern larger so it fits you better? How do I enlarge a sewing pattern? You can make a sewing pattern bigger by using methods like pattern grading, the grid method, digital scaling, or special tools. These methods help you change the pattern pieces so your finished garment will be the size you need.
Maybe you found a great pattern, but it’s too small. Or your body shape changed. Learning to make a pattern bigger opens up many sewing possibilities. You can use patterns meant for different sizes or create custom fits. This guide will show you different ways to enlarge your sewing patterns.
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Why Make a Pattern Bigger?
Sometimes, store patterns don’t fit right off the shelf. Body shapes are unique! Patterns come in standard sizes. But you might be between sizes. Or your measurements don’t match the pattern size chart.
Making a pattern bigger helps you get a better fit. It lets you use a pattern you love, even if it’s not sold in your exact size. You can tailor clothes to your body. This means more comfortable and better-looking garments.
Getting Ready to Enlarge Your Pattern
Before you make your pattern bigger, do some simple steps. These steps help you get the best results.
Measure Yourself Carefully
Use a flexible measuring tape. Measure around your bust, waist, and hips. Also, measure your back waist length, shoulder width, and other needed points. Write down your measurements. Compare them to the pattern’s size chart. This tells you how much bigger you need to make the pattern.
Choose Your Pattern Size
Look at the finished garment measurements on the pattern envelope. Pick the size that is closest to your measurements, but still too small. It’s easier to enlarge a pattern by a small amount than by a lot.
Protect Your Original Pattern
It is a good idea to trace your pattern pieces onto fresh paper. This keeps the original pattern safe. You can use tracing paper, medical paper, or even cheap wrapping paper with no design. Use a pencil to trace all lines, dots, notches, and labels. Label your traced pieces!
Gather Your Tools
You will need some supplies.
* Your traced pattern pieces.
* Large paper for the new, bigger pattern.
* Pencils and an eraser.
* Clear ruler (a grid ruler is helpful).
* Measuring tape.
* Paper scissors.
* Tape.
* Optional: French curve or curved ruler for smooth lines.
* Optional: A pattern enlarger tool or pantograph.
Different Ways to Enlarge Patterns
There are a few main ways to make a sewing pattern bigger. Some are more complex than others.
Method 1: Systematically Adding Size (Pattern Grading)
This is how pattern companies create different sizes from a base size. You add specific amounts to key points on the pattern pieces. This method keeps the shape and style of the garment the same, just larger. It involves grading sewing patterns. This uses specific pattern grading techniques.
Method 2: Using a Grid (The Grid Method)
This method is simple and visual. You draw a grid over your original pattern piece. Then you draw a larger grid on new paper. You copy the design from each small square to the corresponding larger square. This is the grid method pattern enlarging. It’s also a way of tracing and enlarging patterns.
Method 3: Using Digital Tools (Scaling a Pattern)
If you have a digital PDF pattern, you can sometimes print it larger. You use your printer settings or special software. This is scaling a sewing pattern.
Method 4: Using a Special Tool (Pattern Enlarger)
A pantograph is a tool that helps you copy and enlarge drawings or patterns. You trace the original, and the tool draws a larger version. This is using a pattern enlarger tool.
Exploring Pattern Grading for Home Use
Grading sewing patterns means adding size in a balanced way. For home sewers, you’re usually taking one size and making it one or two sizes bigger. This is a type of resizing sewing patterns or adjusting pattern size.
The idea is to add small amounts at places where more ease or size is needed. Think about seams that go around the body like the bust, waist, and hips. Also, consider shoulders and sleeves.
Professional grading uses specific rules and points called ‘pivot points’. For home use, we can simplify this using the ‘slash and spread’ method. This is a common technique for increasing pattern dimensions.
How Slash and Spread Works
Imagine cutting lines on your pattern piece. Then, you spread the pieces apart by a certain amount. This spreading adds size. You then fill in the gaps with paper.
Steps for Slash and Spread
- Trace Your Pattern: Start with your traced pattern piece.
- Draw Lines: Draw lines on the pattern piece where you need to add size.
- Common lines include:
- Down the center of a bodice piece.
- Across the bust line.
- Across the waist line.
- Across the hip line (for pants or skirts).
- Down the center of a sleeve piece.
- From the shoulder to the bust point.
- From the armhole down.
- These lines are often marked on commercial patterns or you can draw them parallel/perpendicular to grainlines.
- Common lines include:
- Slash the Lines: Carefully cut along the lines you drew. Do not cut all the way through the pattern edge. Leave a small bit uncut so the pieces stay attached like a hinge. Or, cut all the way through and place the pieces on new paper, carefully aligning one edge.
- Spread the Pieces: Place the cut pattern piece on new paper. Spread the cut sections apart by the amount you need to add.
- How much to spread? This depends on how much bigger you need to go. A general rule for going up one size might be adding 1/4 inch (about 0.6 cm) at each side seam line (total 1 inch per pattern piece width). But this varies a lot by pattern and size range. Check pattern grading charts online if you can find one for similar garment types. Or, calculate the total difference you need in bust/waist/hip and divide it among the relevant pattern pieces and seams. Remember, pattern pieces are often half or quarter of the total garment.
- Use a ruler to make sure you spread evenly.
- Fill the Gaps: Tape or glue the spread pattern pieces onto the new paper. Fill the open spaces with paper.
- Redraw Lines: Draw smooth lines to connect the spread pieces. Use a curved ruler for armholes, necklines, and hips. Make sure side seams and other connecting seams still match up. Check your waistline and hemline are still level.
- Adjust Other Parts:
- Darts: If you spread through a dart, the dart will become larger. You might need to redraw the dart or split it into two smaller darts.
- Seam Allowances: Make sure you add the same amount to all layers that meet. For example, if you widen a side seam on the bodice front, widen it on the bodice back too.
- Notches & Markings: Transfer all notches, dots, grainlines, and pattern labels to the new pattern piece. Check where notches fall, they might shift slightly.
This is a fundamental sewing pattern alteration. It takes practice to get smooth lines and balanced increases.
Using the Grid Method Pattern Enlarging
The grid method pattern enlarging is good for visual learners. It’s also useful for irregularly shaped pattern pieces or if you just need to scale up without complex grading rules. This method helps with tracing and enlarging patterns.
Steps for the Grid Method
- Trace and Grid the Original: Trace your original pattern piece onto paper. Draw a grid over the entire piece. Use a ruler to make the squares accurate. A grid of 1-inch or 2-inch squares works well for clothing patterns. Use a light pencil line.
- Prepare the New Paper: Get a piece of new paper large enough for the enlarged pattern. Draw a new grid on this paper.
- Scaling Factor: Decide how much bigger you need the pattern. If you want the new pattern to be 20% larger, multiply the size of your original grid squares by 1.2. So, if your original squares are 1 inch, your new squares will be 1.2 inches (or about 1 and a quarter inches). If you want to double the size, multiply by 2. The ratio of the new grid square size to the original grid square size is your scaling factor.
- Draw the larger grid carefully. Make sure the number of squares across and down matches the original grid.
- Transfer Points: Look at your original pattern grid. Find where the pattern lines cross the grid lines. Also, find where the pattern lines change direction or curve within a square. For each point on the original, find the corresponding place in the same square on your new, larger grid. Mark these points on the new grid.
- Example: If a curve enters a square halfway down the left side and exits halfway up the right side on the small grid, find the left and right sides of the same square on the large grid. Mark the halfway points and sketch the curve between them.
- Connect the Dots: Once you have enough points marked on your larger grid, connect them. Use a ruler for straight lines and a curved ruler for curves. Follow the shape of the original pattern within each square.
- Refine Lines: Look at the complete enlarged pattern piece. Smooth out any wobbly lines. Check that curves flow nicely.
- Add Details: Draw in all notches, dots, grainlines, and labels. Make sure grainlines are still parallel to the correct grid lines. Measure critical points like the bust, waist, and hip lines to see if you achieved the desired size increase.
The grid method can be slower than other methods but is very visual. It helps you control the shape as you make it bigger.
Scaling PDF Patterns Digitally
If you download PDF patterns, you might be able to scale them when you print. This is a way of scaling a sewing pattern.
Many PDF patterns come in layers for different sizes. You can often just print the size you need. But sometimes, you might need to make a size between those offered.
Some pattern designers include instructions or print options for scaling. Look for settings like “Custom Scale” or “Percentage” in your printer dialog box. Entering a value slightly over 100% (like 105% or 110%) will make the pattern pieces print slightly larger.
Digital Scaling Tips:
- Check the Test Square: PDF patterns usually have a test square (like 1 inch or 2 cm). Print just this page first! Measure the square after printing. If it’s not the correct size, your printer is scaling automatically (often to “Fit to Page”). Change your printer settings to print at “Actual Size” or 100%.
- Experiment: You might need to print a small piece (like a pocket or facing) at different scales to see how much size is added before printing the whole pattern.
- Limitations: Simple scaling might not be the best method for complex patterns. It increases length and width equally, which might distort the fit in some areas compared to graded patterns. It’s better for slight adjustments.
This method is quick but offers less control over where the size is added compared to grading or the grid method.
Using a Pattern Enlarger Tool
A pattern enlarger tool, often called a pantograph, is a mechanical device. It has jointed arms. You fix one point, trace a line with another point, and a third point draws the line at a larger or smaller scale.
How a Pantograph Works for Patterns
- Set the Ratio: Adjust the tool’s arms to set the ratio of enlargement. There are usually markings on the arms (like 1:1.5 for 1.5 times larger, or 1:2 for double size).
- Anchor the Tool: Fix one end of the pantograph to your workspace. Place your original pattern under the tracing point and new paper under the drawing point.
- Trace: Carefully move the tracing point along the lines of your original pattern piece. The drawing point will draw the same line, but larger, on your new paper.
- Add Details: After tracing the outline, you’ll need to manually add notches, grainlines, and other markings.
Pros and Cons:
- Pros: Can be faster than the grid method for simple shapes. Provides a set scaling factor.
- Cons: Can be tricky to use smoothly, especially on curves. Accuracy depends on the quality of the tool and steady hands. May not handle tight corners or intricate details well. You still need to add markings separately.
This tool is a physical way of scaling a sewing pattern.
Adjusting Pattern Size: Bringing it all Together
No matter which method you choose, the goal is adjusting pattern size to fit your body. This is a form of sewing pattern alteration.
Here’s a look at how different methods handle the process of increasing pattern dimensions:
| Method | How Size is Added | Control Over Fit Areas | Good For… | Difficulty | Speed |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pattern Grading | Added at specific points and lines (e.g., side seams) | High (size added where needed most) | Making systematic increases like store patterns | Medium | Medium |
| Grid Method | Added by scaling up each square’s contents | Medium (can distort shape if not careful) | Visual scaling, simple shapes, irregular pieces | Easy/Medium | Long |
| Digital Scaling (PDF) | Uniform increase in all directions | Low (can distort proportions) | Slight overall increase, quick scaling | Easy | Fast |
| Pattern Enlarger Tool | Uniform increase based on ratio | Low (scales everything including details) | Simple shapes, quick scaling of outlines | Medium | Medium |
Most home sewers use simplified grading (slash and spread) or the grid method for significant changes. Digital scaling and tools are better for minor adjustments or specific pattern types.
Refining Your Enlarged Pattern
After making your pattern bigger, you’re not quite finished. You need to check your work.
Walk the Seams
Take the pieces that sew together (like a bodice front and back side seam). Stand them up on their seam lines on a table. “Walk” them by pivoting them as if you were sewing. Do the seam lines still match in length? If not, you need to adjust one of them. Do this for all connecting seams (shoulder, side, armscye, etc.).
True the Pattern
Trueing means making sure all lines are smooth and correct.
* Are dart legs straight and ending at the correct point?
* Are curves smooth, especially at the armhole and neckline?
* Are corners sharp where they should be?
* Do seam lines flow continuously from one piece to the next?
Use your rulers and curved rulers to fix any wobbly or uneven lines.
Check Grainlines and Markings
Make sure you transferred all grainlines, notches, dots, and other pattern symbols correctly. Grainlines tell you how to place the pattern on the fabric. Notches help you line up seams.
Make a Test Garment (Muslin)
This is a crucial step! Before you cut into your good fabric, make a test version. Use cheap fabric like muslin, calico, or an old sheet. Cut out your enlarged pattern pieces. Sew them together following the pattern instructions.
Try on the test garment. How does it fit? Is it big enough? Too big in some places? Does it hang correctly? Note any places that need more adjustment. It is much easier to fix the pattern based on the muslin than to fix the finished garment.
Adjust your paper pattern based on the changes needed for the muslin. You might need to add a bit more here or take away a bit there. Make notes on your pattern about the changes you made.
Tips for Making Patterns Bigger Successfully
- Be Patient: Making patterns bigger takes time and care. Don’t rush.
- Work Accurately: Measure carefully, draw lines precisely, and cut accurately. Small errors add up.
- Use Good Paper: Sturdy tracing paper or pattern paper is easier to work with than flimsy paper.
- Label Everything: Write the pattern name, piece name (e.g., “Bodice Front”), size you enlarged to, and the date on each piece.
- Keep Notes: Write down what changes you made and how much you added. This helps if you need to make this size again or adjust further.
- Practice: Start with simple patterns (like a basic skirt or top) before trying to enlarge complex designs (like a lined jacket with many pieces).
Remember, sewing pattern alteration is a skill. It improves with practice.
Common Questions About Enlarging Patterns
FAQ:
Q: Can I just print a PDF pattern at a larger percentage?
A: Yes, you can print at a larger percentage, but this scales the pattern uniformly. It makes everything bigger, including details and proportions. This is usually best for slight size increases (like 1-5%) or for patterns where fit isn’t critical. For larger size jumps, using grading techniques is better for maintaining the garment’s intended shape and fit. Always print a test square first!
Q: How do I know how much size to add?
A: Compare your measurements to the pattern’s finished garment measurements or size chart. Find the difference. If you need 4 inches more around the bust, and the pattern piece is a half-front, you’ll need to add that 4 inches across the full front and back pieces. If you’re adding at the side seams of both the front and back piece, you’d add 1 inch to each of the four seam lines (front side left, front side right, back side left, back side right) to get a total of 4 inches increase around the body. Standard grading increments exist (often around 1/4 inch at side seams per size jump), but these vary. Using grading charts or carefully calculating based on your needs is key.
Q: Is the grid method good for all patterns?
A: The grid method works well for most pattern shapes, especially simpler ones. For very complex patterns with many small pieces or intricate curves, it can become time-consuming and difficult to maintain accuracy. It’s a versatile method but requires patience and attention to detail.
Q: Do I need a special ruler for pattern work?
A: A clear ruler with grid lines is very helpful for drawing straight lines and grids accurately. A flexible measuring tape is essential for body measurements and checking curves. A curved ruler, like a French curve or a hip curve, is very useful for redrawing smooth armholes, necklines, and side seams after making alterations.
Q: Should I add seam allowances after enlarging?
A: No, pattern pieces typically include seam allowances already. When you enlarge the pattern piece, you enlarge the seam allowance too. Just make sure the seam allowance is still the correct width all the way around the altered pattern piece. You might need to check this when trueing the pattern.
Q: What is the difference between grading and resizing?
A: In the pattern industry, “grading” means creating a full range of sizes (e.g., sizes 8, 10, 12, 14) from a base size. “Resizing” usually means altering a single pattern piece from one size to a different size to fit a specific person. When home sewers “grade” a pattern, they are really using grading techniques to resize it. This guide uses the terms somewhat interchangeably in the context of a home sewer making a pattern bigger.
Finishing Up
Making a sewing pattern bigger takes skill and practice. You have options like grading sewing patterns, using the grid method pattern enlarging, scaling a sewing pattern digitally, or using a pattern enlarger tool. Each method is a way of resizing sewing patterns and adjusting pattern size.
These techniques are forms of sewing pattern alteration aimed at increasing pattern dimensions. By tracing carefully, working precisely, and testing your fit with a muslin, you can successfully enlarge patterns. You will be able to make clothes that fit you better and explore more sewing projects. Pick the method that seems best for the pattern you have and give it a try!