Cutting out sewing patterns right helps your sewing projects turn out well. How do you cut out a sewing pattern correctly? You prepare your fabric and pattern pieces carefully. You place the pattern pieces following the grainline. You secure the pattern pieces using pins or weights. Then you cut the fabric smoothly and accurately around the edges, minding any special marks like notches. Doing these steps helps make sure your garment pieces fit together as they should.
Getting clean, accurate cuts is a key step in sewing. Bad cuts can make your finished project look messy or even not fit right. Let’s look at how to cut patterns the best way every time.
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Getting Ready to Cut
Before you even think about cutting, you need to get things ready. This means your pattern, your fabric, and your space.
Preparing Your Pattern Pieces
First, open up your sewing pattern. Most patterns come folded. Paper patterns can have creases. These creases can make the pattern piece not lie flat on your fabric.
You need your pattern pieces to be smooth. You can press them with a dry iron on a low heat setting. Use a pressing cloth if you are worried about damaging the paper. Make sure the iron is not too hot! You don’t want to burn the paper.
Check your pattern pieces. Find the ones you need for the size and view you are making. Views are different styles the pattern offers. Cut out the pieces you need along the correct size lines.
Grasping Pattern Markings
Pattern pieces have special marks on them. These marks tell you important things. Knowing what they mean is vital for good cutting and sewing.
Common pattern marks include:
* Grainline: A long line with arrows at one or both ends. This shows you how to place the pattern piece on the fabric in relation to the fabric’s weave.
* Place on Fold: An arrow that is bent at one end. It often says “Place on Fold.” This edge of the pattern piece must line up exactly with a folded edge of your fabric. This creates a symmetrical piece, like the front of a shirt.
* Notches: Small diamonds, triangles, or lines along the cutting edge. These are like small tabs or clips you cut into the fabric. They help you match up pattern pieces later when you sew. There might be single, double, or triple notches.
* Dots or Circles: These marks tell you where to stop sewing, where to place pockets, or where to match up points on different pieces. You mark these on your fabric, not cut them out.
* Dart Lines: Lines that show you where to fold and sew fabric to shape it, often around the bust or waist. You mark these lines on the fabric.
Deciphering these marks before you cut helps you place the pattern right. It also helps you know where to make small cuts (notches) and where to transfer marks (dots, darts).
Preparing Your Fabric
Your fabric needs to be ready too. Most fabrics should be pre-washed and dried the way you will care for the finished garment. This helps shrink the fabric before you cut it. If you don’t pre-wash, your finished item might shrink the first time you wash it, and it won’t fit right.
After washing and drying, press your fabric. Get rid of all the wrinkles. A smooth fabric surface is much easier to cut accurately. Use the right heat setting for your fabric type.
Finding the Grainline on Fabric
Fabric is made of threads woven together.
* Lengthwise threads run parallel to the selvage. The selvage is the finished edge of the fabric that does not fray. This is the lengthwise grain or warp.
* Crosswise threads run from selvage to selvage. This is the crosswise grain or weft.
* The bias is at a 45-degree angle to the selvage.
Most pattern pieces must be placed on the lengthwise grain. This is why the pattern grainline marking is so important. It tells you how to line up the pattern piece with the lengthwise threads of your fabric.
To find the lengthwise grain, look for the selvage edge. The lengthwise grain runs along this edge. Your pattern grainline arrow should be parallel to the selvage. This means it should be the same distance away from the selvage along its whole length.
Sometimes fabric can be pulled off-grain during manufacturing or handling. You can fix this for woven fabrics. Gently pull the fabric diagonally across the grain. This can help square it up. Lay it flat and see if it lies smoothly without wrinkles or bumps caused by stretching.
Folding Fabric for Cutting
How you fold your fabric depends on the pattern layout. The pattern guide sheet tells you how to fold the fabric. Common folds include:
- Folded in half lengthwise: You bring the two selvage edges together. This is the most common fold. The selvages line up. The fold is parallel to the selvages.
- Folded in half crosswise: You bring the cut ends (raw edges) together. The fold runs from selvage to selvage.
- Center fold: One selvage edge is brought towards the center fold of a lengthwise fold, or the fabric is folded so a fold is created somewhere in the middle, not on the edge. This is used for pieces that are cut on the fold but don’t fit on a standard lengthwise or crosswise fold.
- Single layer: Sometimes you need to cut fabric as a single layer, not folded. This is often for pieces like facings, interfacings, or very large pattern pieces.
Make sure the fabric is flat and smooth after folding. The edges should line up neatly. There should be no wrinkles trapped inside the fold. Wrinkles can cause inaccurate cuts.
Laying Out Your Pattern Pieces
This step needs care and thought. The pattern guide sheet shows you a layout diagram. This diagram shows you how to place all the pattern pieces on your folded fabric to save space. Try to follow it as much as possible to avoid wasting fabric.
Placing Pattern Grainline Correctly
This is one of the most important steps for cutting fabric accurately. The pattern grainline marking must line up with the fabric’s grain.
Here’s how to do it:
1. Lay your fabric out smoothly, folded as the pattern guide suggests.
2. Place the pattern piece on the fabric.
3. Find the grainline arrow on the pattern piece.
4. Find the selvage edge (or the fold if the pattern piece is placed on the fold).
5. Measure the distance from one end of the grainline arrow to the selvage edge.
6. Measure the distance from the other end of the grainline arrow to the selvage edge.
7. Adjust the pattern piece until both measurements are exactly the same. The grainline is now parallel to the selvage.
8. If the piece is placed on the fold, make sure the “Place on Fold” edge lies perfectly along the fold line of the fabric. Do not cut this edge!
This careful placement makes sure your fabric pieces will hang and stretch correctly. If you cut off-grain, your garment might twist or not hang straight.
Securing the Pattern to the Fabric
Once your pattern pieces are placed correctly according to the grainline, you need to hold them still. You have two main ways to do this: pinning pattern to fabric or using sewing weights.
Pinning Pattern to Fabric
Pins are the traditional way to hold pattern pieces down.
1. Use sharp pins. Dull pins can snag or damage your fabric.
2. Place pins along the edges of the pattern piece.
3. Put pins pointing inward, not sticking out where you might cut them.
4. For straight edges, place pins every few inches.
5. For curves, place pins closer together to keep the paper smooth against the fabric.
6. Pin within the seam allowance, not on the cutting line if possible. This helps keep the cutting line clear.
7. Make sure you are pinning through both layers of fabric if it is folded.
Pinning works well for most cottons, linens, and stable fabrics. However, pins can distort delicate or slippery fabrics like silk or rayon. Pins also leave small holes in the fabric, which might be visible on some materials like leather or vinyl.
Using Sewing Weights
Sewing weights are small, heavy objects you place on top of the pattern pieces. They hold the pattern in place without using pins.
1. Place weights on the main part of the pattern piece.
2. Put extra weights on curves and corners to keep the edges flat.
3. Make sure the weights are heavy enough to keep the pattern from shifting while you cut.
4. You can buy special pattern weights, or use anything heavy and smooth like large washers, clean stones, or even cans of food.
Using sewing weights is often better for:
* Slippery fabrics: Weights don’t distort or snag them.
* Delicate fabrics: Weights don’t leave holes.
* Fabrics you are cutting with a rotary cutter: Weights keep the pattern flat and stable for the cutter.
You can use a combination of weights and pins. Use weights on the main areas and a few pins on tricky curves if needed.
Choosing Your Fabric Cutting Tools
The tool you use to cut fabric makes a big difference. The two main tools are scissors and rotary cutters.
Rotary Cutter vs Scissors
Both tools have their pros and cons. Choosing the right one depends on your fabric, your pattern, and your personal preference.
Fabric Scissors:
* How they work: You open and close blades to cut.
* Best for: Cutting out shapes with lots of points or sharp turns. Cutting thick fabrics. Cutting single layers of fabric.
* Pros: Easy to use for small pieces and detailed shapes. Don’t need a special mat. Can cut multiple layers (depending on the fabric and scissors).
* Cons: Can lift the fabric slightly as you cut, leading to less accurate lines on long straight edges. Can tire your hand with a lot of cutting. Must be kept very sharp. Can be harder to get perfectly smooth curves.
* Tip: Only use your fabric scissors for fabric! Never use them on paper, as paper will dull the blades quickly.
Rotary Cutters:
* How they work: A sharp, circular blade rolls along the fabric, cutting it.
* Best for: Cutting straight lines and gentle curves. Cutting multiple layers of fabric at once. Cutting fabric laid out using weights.
* Pros: Can make very clean, straight cuts. Faster for cutting many layers. Less hand fatigue for long cuts. Good for cutting long strips.
* Cons: Require a special self-healing cutting mat underneath. Dangerous if not handled with care (blade is exposed). Harder to cut tight curves or sharp points. Requires weights or careful pinning to keep the pattern flat.
* Tip: Always close the safety guard on your rotary cutter immediately after use.
Summary Table: Rotary Cutter vs. Scissors
| Feature | Fabric Scissors | Rotary Cutter |
|---|---|---|
| Cutting Action | Open and close blades | Rolling circular blade |
| Best For | Points, sharp turns, thick fabric | Straight lines, gentle curves |
| Requires Mat | No | Yes (self-healing) |
| Speed | Slower for long cuts | Faster for long cuts/multiple layers |
| Accuracy | Can lift fabric slightly | Very accurate on straight lines |
| Safety | Less dangerous (blades covered when closed) | Requires care (exposed blade) |
| Detail | Good for intricate shapes | Harder for tight curves/points |
Many sewers use both tools for different parts of the cutting process. Use a rotary cutter for straight edges and large curves, and switch to scissors for tight spots and notches.
Best Fabric Cutting Tools
Beyond scissors and rotary cutters, other tools help with cutting fabric accurately.
* Self-Healing Cutting Mat: Essential if you use a rotary cutter. It protects your table and doesn’t get damaged by the blade. Get the largest size you can manage for your space.
* Sharp Fabric Scissors: Invest in good quality scissors meant only for fabric. Keep them sharp.
* Sharp Rotary Cutter Blades: Rotary blades get dull. Keep spare blades and change them often for clean cuts.
* Pattern Weights: As discussed, useful for holding patterns without pins, especially with rotary cutters or delicate fabrics.
* Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Markers: Needed for marking dots, darts, and other transfer marks from the pattern onto the fabric.
* Measuring Tape or Ruler: For checking grainline placement and other measurements.
Using the best fabric cutting tools for the job makes a big difference in how well you can cut.
Cutting Fabric Accurately
Now comes the actual cutting! Take your time. Rushing leads to mistakes.
General Tips for Cutting
- Use a stable surface: Cut on a large, flat table. Don’t cut on your lap or a bumpy surface.
- Position yourself: Stand or sit so you can comfortably reach all parts of the pattern piece. You might need to walk around the table.
- Cut with long, smooth strokes (scissors): Don’t make tiny little snips. Make long, steady cuts. This gives a smoother edge. Keep the lower blade of the scissors on the table or mat surface.
- Apply even pressure (rotary cutter): Press down firmly enough to cut through all layers, but not so hard you damage your mat. Roll the cutter smoothly along the edge.
- Cut around the pattern piece: Cut outside the lines, right next to the edge of the pattern piece itself. This is the cutting line.
- Cut notches as you go: It’s easiest to cut the notches right after you finish cutting each pattern piece.
Cutting Pattern Notches
Notches are the small marks on the edge of the pattern. They show you where to match pieces together. There are a few ways to cut them:
- Cut outwards (tabs): Cut small triangles or rectangles pointing away from the pattern piece edge. This is often the easiest way and makes the notches easy to see. This method slightly adds to the size of your piece outside the seam allowance, which is fine.
- Cut inwards (clips): Cut small snips into the seam allowance. Be very careful not to cut past the notch marking! Only snip a tiny bit into the seam allowance, usually about 1/4 inch or less. This method is less visible from the outside but can weaken the seam allowance if cut too deep.
- Mark with tailor’s chalk: Instead of cutting, you can mark the notch location with a small chalk line or clip inside the seam allowance after cutting the main edge.
Choose a method and use it consistently. Cutting notches helps you assemble the garment correctly later. Single notches usually mark the front of a seam, and double or triple notches mark the back, but always check your pattern instructions.
Cutting Slippery Fabric Tips
Slippery fabrics like silk, rayon, satin, or challis can be tricky to cut. They shift and slide easily. Here are some tips:
- Use a single layer: If possible, cut slippery fabric in a single layer. This stops the layers from shifting against each other. Fold the pattern piece along the “Place on Fold” line if needed and place the folded pattern edge on the straight grain, then cut one side, flip the pattern over, and cut the other side.
- Use weights: Pattern weights are much better than pins for slippery fabric. Pins can cause snags or distort the fabric. Place weights generously to keep the fabric and pattern flat.
- Use a cutting mat: A rotary cutter and mat system helps keep slippery fabric flat. You can lay the fabric out smoothly on the mat.
- Sharp tools are a must: Extra sharp scissors or a fresh rotary blade are crucial. Dull blades will push or snag slippery fabric instead of cutting it cleanly.
- Cut slowly and carefully: Take your time. Don’t rush. Make smooth cuts.
- Use tissue paper or spray starch: You can layer tissue paper under or on top of slippery fabric before placing the pattern. This gives the fabric more stability. You can also use temporary spray starch on the fabric to make it a little stiffer for cutting. Test this on a scrap first.
- Consider a different technique: Some people tape slippery fabric to a large sheet of paper or even an old sheet before cutting. This locks the layers together.
Cutting slippery fabric takes patience and the right technique. Don’t get discouraged if your first attempts aren’t perfect.
What Comes After Cutting?
Once all your pattern pieces are cut out, you are almost ready to sew.
Transferring Pattern Markings
Remember those dots, circles, squares, and dart lines on your pattern pieces? You need to transfer these marks onto your fabric pieces. These marks guide your sewing, showing you where to sew darts, place pockets, attach zippers, etc.
Methods for transferring marks include:
* Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Pens: Mark directly on the fabric through the pattern holes or along lines. Make sure the mark will disappear or be hidden in a seam. Test on a scrap.
* Tracing Wheel and Carbon Paper: Place special dressmaker’s carbon paper between the pattern and fabric. Roll a tracing wheel along the pattern lines/dots. This leaves a line of pigment on the fabric. Use a color that shows up but isn’t permanent.
* Tailor’s Tacks: Use needle and thread to make small loops through the pattern and fabric at marking points. This is good for delicate fabrics.
* Snips: For dart points or pocket placements near an edge, you can make a tiny snip into the seam allowance (like cutting an inward notch) just at the point. Be very careful not to snip too far!
Make sure all necessary marks are transferred before you remove the pattern pieces from the fabric.
Organizing Cut Pieces
It helps to keep your cut fabric pieces organized. You can group them by pattern piece number or name (e.g., Front Bodice, Sleeve, Back Skirt). You can keep them together with the paper pattern piece pinned or clipped to them. This prevents losing small pieces and makes assembly easier.
Common Cutting Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Even experienced sewers make cutting mistakes sometimes. Here are a few and how to prevent them:
- Cutting off-grain: This is a big one. Always double-check your pattern grainline placement against the fabric selvage before cutting. Measure at both ends of the grainline arrow.
- Cutting through the “Place on Fold” edge: Remember, this edge stays uncut! It lines up with the fold.
- Not cutting notches: You might think you can skip this, but notches are super helpful for matching pieces correctly during sewing. Cut them as you go.
- Cutting wrong size: Double-check you are cutting along the correct size line on the pattern piece. Pattern lines for different sizes are usually very close together.
- Fabric shifting while cutting: Use enough pins or weights. Use a stable surface. Cut carefully, especially with slippery fabric.
- Dull tools: Using dull scissors or a dull rotary blade leads to jagged edges and frustration. Keep your tools sharp!
- Not pre-washing fabric: This can lead to shrinkage and a poor fit after the first wash. Pre-wash almost all fabrics.
- Cutting too quickly: Take your time. Focus on cutting smoothly and accurately along the lines or edges.
Cutting is not the most exciting part of sewing for everyone, but it is a foundational skill. Good cutting leads to easier sewing and better results.
FAQ
Q: Do I really need special fabric scissors?
A: Yes, it’s highly recommended. Fabric scissors are designed to cut fabric cleanly without snagging. Using them only on fabric keeps the blades sharp for this purpose. Paper dulls fabric scissors quickly.
Q: Can I cut multiple layers of fabric at once?
A: Yes, with sharp tools. A rotary cutter is excellent for cutting several layers, especially on straight lines. Sharp fabric scissors can also cut multiple layers of some fabrics. Always make sure the grainline is aligned in all layers before cutting.
Q: How do I know if my fabric is on-grain?
A: For woven fabrics, the crosswise threads should run at a perfect 90-degree angle to the selvage (lengthwise threads). If you gently tug on the bias (diagonal), the fabric should stretch evenly. If it doesn’t lie flat or seems twisted, it might be off-grain and might need straightening.
Q: What if my pattern piece doesn’t fit on the fabric layout shown in the guide?
A: Fabric widths vary. The layout might be for a wider or narrower fabric than you have. You might need to get creative. Cut the largest pieces first. Rearrange smaller pieces to fit into gaps. Sometimes you might need to cut a piece on a single layer even if the layout shows it on a fold. Always check the grainline carefully if you change the layout.
Q: Is it better to use pins or weights?
A: It depends on the fabric and your cutting tool. Weights are often preferred for slippery or delicate fabrics and when using a rotary cutter. Pins are good for stable fabrics and when using scissors. Many sewers use both. Try both methods to see what you like best for different projects.
Cutting out your sewing pattern correctly sets you up for success. Take your time, prepare your materials, use the right tools, and pay attention to those important pattern markings. With practice, you’ll be cutting out pattern pieces right every single time!