Simple Steps: How Do You Enlarge A Sewing Pattern At Home

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Simple Steps: How Do You Enlarge A Sewing Pattern At Home

So, you have a sewing pattern you love, but it’s not quite big enough? How do you enlarge a sewing pattern at home? You can make a sewing pattern larger using simple methods like the grid method or by adding paper to the pattern pieces, then tracing your pattern onto new paper. These techniques let you adjust the pattern size to fit you better. They are simple pattern alteration techniques you can do without special tools.

Sometimes a pattern is almost right, but you need it bigger in one spot or all over. Maybe the size you want is not there. Or maybe the pattern is old, and the sizes are different today. Making a pattern larger yourself is useful. It lets you use any pattern you find. You can sew clothes that fit your body just right. This is part of resizing sewing patterns. It helps you create clothes that feel good and look good on you. It gives you more choices when you sew. You can use any pattern you like, no matter the size it came in.

There are a few ways to make a pattern bigger. Some ways are simple. Some are more work. The best way for you depends on how much bigger you need the pattern. It also depends on how comfortable you are with making changes.

Grasping the Need to Resize

Why would someone need to change a sewing pattern size? Patterns come in set sizes. But bodies are all different. You might be one size on top and another size on the bottom. Or maybe you need more room in the hips but not the waist. Store-bought patterns use standard body sizes. Your body might not be standard.

Pattern grading is what pattern companies do. They make one size, then use math and rules to make bigger and smaller sizes. They do this carefully so the design still looks right in all sizes. Doing this at home is hard. You need special rules and tools. But you can do simple scaling patterns yourself. You can make them a little bigger or a lot bigger. You just need to know a few simple steps.

Making a pattern bigger is not hard. It just takes time and care. You need to work step by step. This makes sure your new pattern pieces are the right shape and size. It helps your finished clothing fit well.

Getting Ready to Make the Pattern Bigger

Before you start, get your space ready. Clear a large table or floor area. You need room to spread out your pattern pieces. You will also need space for your new paper.

Gather your tools and supplies. Having everything ready makes the job easier. You won’t stop and look for things.

Items You Will Need:

• The original sewing pattern pieces.
• Large paper for your new pattern. This can be pattern paper, tracing paper, or even large rolls of craft paper. Make sure it’s wide enough.
• Pencils (sharp).
• Eraser.
• A ruler or straight edge.
• A curved ruler (helpful but not always needed, like a French curve or a hip curve).
• Paper scissors (not your good fabric scissors!).
• Tape (masking tape or clear tape).
• A measuring tape (for checking measurements).
• Optional: A large cutting mat with a grid on it can help.

Think about how much bigger you need the pattern to be. Measure your body. Compare your measurements to the pattern’s finished garment measurements or body measurements. This tells you how much size you need to add. Remember you can add different amounts to different pattern pieces. For example, you might add more to the waist piece than the shoulder piece. This is part of adjusting pattern size for a better fit.

The Simple Grid Method Pattern Enlargement

This is a very popular way to make patterns bigger at home. It is good for patterns that are simple shapes. It is also good if you need to make the pattern much bigger. It works by drawing a grid on the old pattern. Then you draw a bigger grid on new paper. You copy the pattern lines from the small grid to the big grid.

Why Use the Grid Method?

The grid method helps keep the shape of the pattern. When you just add to the edges, the shape can get weird. The grid helps you keep the curves and lines in the right places. It spreads the added size evenly across the pattern piece. This makes the finished garment look better. It is a key technique for grid method pattern enlargement.

Step-by-Step Grid Method

Follow these steps carefully to make your pattern bigger using a grid:

h4: Step 1: Prepare the Original Pattern

• Take out the pattern piece you want to enlarge.
• Make sure it is flat. Iron it if it is wrinkled. Use a low heat iron without steam so you don’t damage the paper.
• If the pattern is printed on thin paper, you might want to trace it first onto stronger paper. This makes drawing the grid easier.
• Decide where you want to add size. Do you need to add size all over? Or only in certain spots like the bust or hips? Mark these areas lightly on the pattern.

h4: Step 2: Draw a Grid on the Original Pattern

• Draw a grid of squares onto the original pattern piece.
• Use a ruler and pencil.
• Start by drawing lines straight up and down. These lines should be parallel to the grainline mark on the pattern piece.
• Then draw lines straight across. These lines should be at a right angle (like a corner of a square) to the up-and-down lines.
• Make the squares a simple size, like 1 inch by 1 inch, or 2 cm by 2 cm. A smaller size grid gives more exact results. But it takes more time.
• Draw the grid over the whole pattern piece. Number the rows of squares along one side (A, B, C…) and the columns along the top (1, 2, 3…). This helps you keep track.
• Mark any important points on the pattern, like corners, darts, or where pieces join. Note which square these points are in.

h4: Step 3: Choose Your Scale for Enlargement

• Decide how much bigger you want the pattern.
• This is the scaling patterns step. If you made a 1-inch grid on the small pattern, maybe you want a 1.1-inch grid on the big pattern. Or a 1.2-inch grid.
• Example: If you want to add about 2 inches around the bust, you need to figure out how much bigger each square should be. If the bust piece goes across 10 squares, and you want to add 2 inches total (1 inch to the front piece, 1 inch to the back piece), you need to add about 0.1 inches per square across the bust line on each piece. So, a 1-inch square becomes a 1.1-inch square.
• Write down your chosen scale (e.g., “1 inch square becomes 1.1 inch square”).

h4: Step 4: Draw a Bigger Grid on New Paper

• Take your large sheet of new pattern paper.
• Draw a grid of squares on this new paper using your chosen larger size. If your small squares were 1 inch, and you want them 1.1 inches now, draw a grid of 1.1-inch by 1.1-inch squares.
• Make sure this new grid is bigger than your original pattern piece.
• Use the same numbering and lettering system for the rows and columns as you did on the original pattern grid. This makes copying easier.

h4: Step 5: Copy the Pattern Lines Square by Square

• This is where you copy the pattern shape. Look at your original pattern piece and its grid.
• Go square by square. Look at where the pattern line crosses the grid lines or goes inside a square on the original pattern.
• Find the same square on your new, bigger grid.
• Draw the pattern line in that square on the new paper. The line should be in the same position inside the larger square as it was in the smaller square.
• If a line enters a square halfway down the left side and leaves halfway across the bottom on the small grid, draw the line entering halfway down the left side and leaving halfway across the bottom on the big grid.
• Pay close attention to curves. Copy them carefully square by square. This helps keep the shape smooth.
• Copy all pattern lines: the outline of the piece, darts, pleats, button placements, pocket lines, etc.
• Copy all pattern marks: the grainline arrow, notches (those little V shapes or lines on the edges), dots, fold lines. Write down any words from the pattern piece (like “Cut 2,” the name of the piece, size info).

h4: Step 6: Connect the Lines and Smooth Curves

• Once you have copied all the points and lines inside the squares, connect them smoothly.
• Use your rulers (straight and curved) to draw smooth lines that connect the points you marked in each square.
• Make sure curves look natural. The curved ruler can help here.

h4: Step 7: Add Seam Allowances and Hem Allowances

• The original pattern piece might include seam allowances (the extra fabric around the edge for sewing). Or it might not. Check your pattern guide sheet.
• If the original pattern did include seam allowances, your enlarged pattern now includes them, but they are also scaled up. You might need to check if these scaled-up allowances are still the standard size (like 5/8 inch or 1.5 cm). You might need to adjust them back to the standard size if they got too big or small.
• If the original pattern did not include seam allowances (some patterns do not), you need to add them now to your enlarged pattern piece. Draw a line the correct distance (e.g., 5/8 inch) outside your drawn pattern line.
• Do the same for the hem allowance at the bottom of the piece. Check the pattern guide sheet for the correct hem size.

h4: Step 8: Write Pattern Information

• Write the piece name (e.g., “Front Bodice”), size information (e.g., “Enlarged Size 14”), how many to cut (e.g., “Cut 1 on Fold”), and the pattern number on your new pattern piece.
• Draw the grainline arrow clearly. Make sure it is straight and in the correct place.

h4: Step 9: Cut Out Your New Pattern Piece

• Use your paper scissors to cut out the newly drawn pattern piece on the outer line (including seam allowances).
• Cut the notches. If they were V shapes, cut them that way. If they were lines, cut them out or cut little snips into the seam allowance.

Repeat these steps for every pattern piece you need to make bigger. The grid method requires drawing the grid on each piece you want to enlarge.

Other Ways to Make a Pattern Larger

The grid method is good, but there are other ways to make a pattern bigger. These are other pattern alteration techniques.

Adding Directly to the Pattern Edges

This is simpler than the grid method for small changes. It is often used for simple shapes or when you only need to add size in one or two places, like adding width to the side seams at the waist and hip. This is adding to pattern size by extending the lines.

• How it works: You decide how much size to add (e.g., 1 inch total width). For a pattern cut on the fold (like a front piece), you add half the amount (0.5 inch) to the side edge. For a piece cut twice (like a back piece), you add half the amount (0.5 inch) to each side edge (total 1 inch for the piece).

• Steps:

  1. Trace your original pattern piece onto new pattern paper. Leave plenty of space around the edges. This is tracing pattern paper.
  2. Decide where to add the size (e.g., side seam, center back).
  3. Draw new lines outside the original pattern lines to add the needed amount.
  4. Smooth out the curves where the new lines meet the old lines. Use a curved ruler.
  5. Add seam allowances if needed, or check and fix them if they were already there.
  6. Cut out the new piece.

• Pros: Easy and fast for small changes.

• Cons: Can change the shape of the pattern more than the grid method, especially for large changes or complex curves. You have to be careful to true (check and fix) the seams where pieces join.

Slash and Spread Method

This method is great for adding size in specific areas, like adding room to the bust or making a sleeve wider. It is another way of drafting pattern modifications.

• How it works: You cut (slash) the pattern piece along certain lines. Then you spread the pieces apart by the amount you need to add. You tape the pieces down onto new paper with space in between. You then fill in the gaps and smooth the lines.

• Steps:

  1. Trace your original pattern piece onto new paper. This saves the original.
  2. Draw lines on the traced piece where you want to add fullness or width (e.g., from the hem up to the bust point, or lines along a sleeve).
  3. Cut along these lines, but do not cut all the way through the pattern edge. Leave a small hinge so the pieces stay connected.
  4. Place the cut piece on a new sheet of paper.
  5. Spread the cut sections apart by the needed amount. Measure the space between the pieces to be exact.
  6. Tape the pieces down onto the new paper.
  7. Fill in the gaps with new paper and tape.
  8. Draw new, smooth lines to connect the original pattern lines across the gaps. Pay attention to the hemline or other edges; they might need to be redrawn to be straight or smoothly curved.
  9. Check seam allowances and add them if needed.
  10. Cut out the new piece.

• Pros: Good for adding controlled fullness or width in specific places. Keeps the original shape better than just adding to the edges.

• Cons: Can be tricky to spread evenly. Requires careful smoothing of the new lines.

Using a Photocopy Machine

Some people think about scaling patterns using a photocopier.

• How it works: You put the pattern piece on a photocopier and set it to enlarge by a certain percentage (like 110% or 120%).
• Pros: Quick and easy if you have a large-format copier.
• Cons: Most home copiers are not big enough for pattern pieces. Scaling by percentage on a copier often does not work well for clothes patterns. Adding 10% might add too much in one place and not enough in another. It can distort the shape, especially curves. It also scales seam allowances, which you might not want. This method is usually not recommended for clothing patterns. It works better for things like craft patterns or simple shapes.

Completing and Checking Your Enlarged Pattern

After you have made your pattern pieces bigger using your chosen method, you are not quite finished. You need to check everything.

Checking the Measurements

• Use your measuring tape to check the key measurements on your new pattern pieces.
• For a bodice front, measure across the bust line (from the center front fold or seam line to the side seam). Double it (if cut on fold) or add it to the back piece measurement to see the total circumference. Is it the size you wanted?
• Check the waist and hip measurements the same way.
• Check the length of the pattern piece. Did it get longer when you made it wider (this can happen, especially with slash and spread)?
• Compare the length of seam lines that will be sewn together. For example, check the length of the side seam on the front piece against the side seam on the back piece. They must be the same length so you can sew them together. This is called trueing pattern paper.

Trueing Your Pattern Pieces

• What is trueing? Trueing means checking that all the edges that will be sewn together are the same length. It also means making sure curves flow smoothly and points meet correctly.
• How to true: Lay the pieces next to each other as they will be sewn. For example, lay the front side seam edge next to the back side seam edge. Walk your fingers along the seam lines. Are they the same length? Do they curve in the same way? If not, you need to adjust one or both pieces. Smooth out bumps or sharp points.
• Check where seam lines meet, like the underarm point where the side seam meets the armhole seam. Make sure they form a nice angle and will join smoothly.
• Check darts and pleats. Make sure they are marked clearly and are the right size.

Adding All Pattern Markings

• Make sure all the needed marks are on your new pattern pieces.
• Notches are very important. They help you line up pieces when sewing. Copy all original notches exactly.
• Transfer any other dots, squares, or symbols from the original pattern. These marks tell you where to put pockets, zippers, buttons, or how to match pieces.
• Write all the text on the pieces: piece name, size, number to cut, fabric grainline. The grainline is very important! If the grainline is not in the right place when you cut your fabric, the garment will not hang correctly.

Drafting Pattern Modifications for Better Fit

Making a pattern bigger is one type of pattern modification. But while you are at it, you might want to make other changes for a better fit. These are drafting pattern modifications.

• Adjusting length: You might need to shorten or lengthen a bodice, skirt, or pants leg. Patterns usually have lines marked for lengthening or shortening. You can do this before or after you make the pattern wider.
• Full bust adjustment (FBA): If you need more room only at the bust, a standard enlargement might not be enough or might add too much size elsewhere. An FBA is a specific slash and spread method to add room only at the bust point.
• Adjusting shoulders, necklines, etc.: You might need to change the shoulder width or the shape of the neckline. These changes are often made after the main size adjustment.

When you make any pattern changes, it is a good idea to make a test garment first. This is called a muslin. You sew the pattern in cheap fabric (like muslin or an old bed sheet). You try it on to see how it fits. This lets you find any problems before you cut your good fabric. You can then change your paper pattern again based on how the muslin fits.

Using Your New Enlarged Pattern Pieces

Now you have your new, larger pattern pieces. They are traced onto new paper. They have all the marks. They have been trued.

• Lay out your fabric according to the pattern layout guide.
• Pin your new pattern pieces onto the fabric. Make sure the grainline mark on the pattern is lined up exactly with the straight grain of the fabric. Use a ruler to measure from the grainline mark to the selvage edge of the fabric to check this.
• Cut out your fabric pieces carefully, cutting around the edges of your new paper pattern.
• Transfer all the pattern markings (notches, dots, etc.) from the paper pattern to the fabric pieces. You can use tailor’s chalk, fabric pens, or tailor’s tacks.

Helpful Tips for Enlarging Patterns

• Start Simple: If you are new to this, pick a simple pattern to enlarge first, like a basic skirt or top with few pieces.
• Work on One Piece at a Time: Focus on one pattern piece until it is complete and checked before moving to the next.
• Take Your Time: Rushing can lead to mistakes. Be patient with the process.
• Measure Twice, Cut Once: This old rule is very important in sewing. Measure your body, measure the pattern, measure your new pattern pieces. Check everything before you cut fabric.
• Use a Light Table or Window: If your original pattern is thick or dark, putting it on a light table or taping it to a window can help you see through it to trace or draw your grid lines more accurately onto your new paper.
• Keep the Original Pattern: Never cut the original pattern if you can help it. Always trace it first onto another paper. This way, you still have the original if you make a mistake or want to use a different size later. Tracing pattern paper is a key first step in any alteration.
• Label Everything Clearly: Write down the original size, the new size, and any changes you made on your new pattern pieces. This helps you remember what you did.

Enlarging a pattern is a great skill for anyone who sews. It opens up many more possibilities for what you can create. It helps you make clothes that fit you perfectly. It lets you use beautiful vintage patterns that might be in smaller sizes. With simple tools and these steps, you can change any pattern to make it work for you. It is all about making pattern larger in a way that keeps the design looking good.

Pattern Grading vs. Home Enlargement

It is good to know the difference between what pattern companies do (pattern grading) and what you do at home. Pattern grading involves specific rules and measurements for how much to add or take away for each size jump. For example, from a size 10 to a size 12, a company adds a set amount at the side seams, a smaller amount at the armhole, a tiny bit to the shoulder, and changes the length by a standard amount if needed. These amounts are planned so that the fit and look of the garment stay the same across the size range.

When you enlarge a pattern at home, you are often just adding a total amount of size to make it fit your body. You are not creating a standard “next size up” that would fit anyone needing that size. You are adjusting pattern size for your body. The grid method and slash and spread help copy the original shape as much as possible. But it is not the same as professional grading. Your home enlarged pattern fits you. If someone else needed the same amount of added size but had a different body shape, your pattern might not fit them the same way. This is why resizing sewing patterns at home is personal.

Summary of Methods

Here is a quick look at the main ways to make a pattern bigger at home:

Method	How It Works	Best For	Pros	Cons
Grid Method	Copying points from a small grid to a bigger grid.	Any amount of size change, complex shapes.	Keeps original shape well, good for large changes.	Takes more time, requires careful drawing.
Adding to Edges	Drawing new lines outside original pattern edges.	Small size changes, simple shapes.	Quick and easy.	Can change shape, less accurate for curves/large changes.
Slash and Spread	Cutting and spreading pattern pieces apart.	Adding fullness in specific areas (bust, hip).	Good for targeted changes, keeps shape better than adding to edges.	Requires careful spreading and smoothing, can change length.
Photocopy Scaling	Enlarging on a copier.	Not recommended for clothing patterns.	Fast (if copier works).	Distorts shapes, scales seam allowances, needs large copier.

Each method has its place. For most home sewers needing to make a pattern larger, the grid method or adding to the edges are the easiest to start with. Slash and spread is great for more specific fit issues.

Comprehending Pattern Markings

When you are making pattern larger, you must copy all the markings. These marks are like a map. They tell you how to put the pieces together.

• Grainline: A line with arrows. It shows how to place the pattern piece on the fabric’s straight grain. Fabric grain is important for how the finished garment hangs.
• Notches: Little cuts or points on the edges. They show you where to match pieces when sewing seams. Often you will see double or triple notches to match certain points.
• Dots, Squares, Triangles: These mark specific points like dart ends, pocket placements, or where to stop sewing.
• Fold Line: An arrow or line showing where to place the pattern edge along a fold in the fabric.
• Cutting Line: The outer line you cut on.
• Seam Line: The line where you will sew. It’s usually inside the cutting line by the seam allowance amount. Some patterns show this, some don’t.

When you redraw your pattern using the grid or slash and spread, redraw these marks too. Make sure they are in the right place on your new, bigger pattern piece. This is part of drafting pattern modifications carefully.

Final Steps and Checking Fit

Once all your pattern pieces are enlarged and true, the best next step is to make a muslin (test garment).

• Cut your enlarged pattern from cheap fabric.
• Sew it together using the seam allowances shown on your pattern. Do not worry about finishing edges or adding zippers or buttons perfectly. Just sew the main seams together.
• Try on the muslin. Pin it closed if needed.
• Look in the mirror. Does it fit the way you want? Is it too tight or too loose anywhere? Are the curves smooth? Do the shoulder seams sit in the right place? Is the length good?
• Pin or mark changes needed directly on the muslin while you are wearing it.
• Take off the muslin carefully. Lay it flat.
• Transfer the changes you marked on the muslin back to your paper pattern pieces. You might need to redraw lines or change dart sizes.
• If you made big changes, you might need to true the seams again on your paper pattern.

Making a muslin takes extra time, but it saves fabric and effort in the long run. It makes sure your final garment from good fabric will fit well. It is an important part of pattern alteration techniques for getting a good fit.

Enlarging a sewing pattern at home is a skill that gets easier with practice. Be patient with yourself. Your first try might not be perfect, and that is okay! Each time you do it, you learn more. Soon you will be able to adjust patterns easily to make anything fit you perfectly. Happy sewing!

FAQ: Making Sewing Patterns Bigger

h4: Can you just trace a pattern bigger?

Simply tracing a pattern freehand to make it bigger is not a good way to enlarge it. It is very hard to keep the correct shape and curves. You will likely end up with a pattern piece that does not fit or sew together correctly. Methods like the grid method or adding to the edges are much more accurate for making pattern larger. You should trace the original pattern onto new paper before you start changing its size, to save the original.

h4: How much bigger should I make the pattern?

This depends on your body measurements and the pattern’s finished garment measurements. Measure your bust, waist, and hips. Compare these to the pattern size chart. If you need 2 inches more around the bust, you’ll add that amount spread across the front and back bust pattern pieces. Remember to add size to the pattern measurement, considering ease (the extra room for movement). If the finished pattern bust measurement is 36 inches and you need a 38-inch finished measurement, you need to add 2 inches total across the pattern pieces. You can add 0.5 inches to the side of the front piece and 0.5 inches to the side of the back piece (total 1 inch added to the half-pattern, making 2 inches total when cut). This requires careful adjusting pattern size based on measurements.

h4: What is the easiest way to enlarge a pattern?

For small changes on simple shapes, adding to the edges is often the easiest. You just trace the pattern and draw a new line a certain distance away from the old edge. For larger changes or more complex shapes, the grid method is simple in its concept (copying square by square) but takes more time. It is considered one of the most reliable home methods for grid method pattern enlargement.

h4: Does enlarging a pattern change the seam allowance?

Yes, if the original pattern included seam allowances and you use the grid method or photocopy scaling, the seam allowances will also get bigger. If you just add to the pattern edges, you are adding to the seam allowance area. You need to check the seam allowances on your enlarged pattern. Make sure they are still the standard size you want (like 5/8 inch or 1.5 cm). If they are too big or too small, redraw them to the correct size outside your new pattern line. This is part of careful pattern alteration techniques.

h4: Can I enlarge any pattern?

Most sewing patterns for garments can be enlarged using the grid method or slash and spread. However, patterns with very complex shapes, many small pieces, or tailored details might be harder to enlarge accurately at home. Pattern grading professionals have specific ways to handle these. Simple patterns like A-line skirts, basic tops, or simple dresses are good for practicing home enlargement.

h4: Should I use the same amount of enlargement for all pattern pieces?

No. You should adjust each pattern piece based on your body measurements and how much ease is needed in that part of the garment. For example, you might need to add more size to the bodice pattern pieces than to the sleeve pattern piece. Or you might add size to the hip area but not the waist area of a skirt pattern. This is why adjusting pattern size is done piece by piece.