Leather Craft: How Do You Use A Sewing Awl Step-by-Step

A sewing awl is a handy leather sewing tool that lets you sew tough materials by hand. How do you use a sewing awl? You use it to poke a hole, then pass thread through that hole using its special needle. This tool helps you make strong stitches, often called a lock stitch awl, for things like hand sewing leather or stitching thick fabric.

A sewing awl is great for projects where a regular sewing machine or needle struggles. Think about fixing a ripped tent, mending a sail, working on leather goods, or repairing shoes. It’s a powerful awl for heavy duty sewing.

Why Pick a Sewing Awl?

Sewing tough stuff can be hard. Needles can break. Machines can jam. A sewing awl makes things easier.

It goes through thick materials like leather or canvas easily.
It makes a very strong stitch. This stitch is the same on both sides.
You have full control over each stitch.
It is small and easy to carry for repairs anywhere.
It’s perfect for fixing items like repairing canvas on boats or bags.

Fathoming Different Awls

There are a few types of sewing awls. The most common is the Speedy Stitcher awl. This is a popular name for a specific type.

Speedy Stitcher awl: This is a well-known brand name. It holds a spool of thread inside its handle. This design is often called an automatic sewing awl because it manages the thread feed for you. It uses a special needle to make the lock stitch awl action simple.
Basic Sewing Awl: Some awls are just a handle with a hole-making tool or a needle holder. You might use these with other needles and thread setup. The Speedy Stitcher awl type is usually what people mean when they say “sewing awl” for stitching. We will focus on how to use the Speedy Stitcher awl type.

Let’s look closer at the parts of this useful leather sewing tool.

Grasping Awl Components

Knowing the parts helps you use it right. A typical Speedy Stitcher awl has these main bits:

Part Name	What It Looks Like	What It Does
Handle	The part you hold. Usually wood.	Stores the thread spool. Gives you grip.
Chuck / Collar	Metal ring near the needle.	Holds the needle tight. Lets you swap needles.
Needle	Pointed metal with a hole.	Makes the hole in the material. Carries the thread.
Spool	A small roll of thread.	Sits inside the handle. Provides the thread.
Thread	Strong, waxed thread.	The material that makes the stitch.

The needle on a Speedy Stitcher awl is special. It has a hole (an eye) near the tip. This lets it pull the thread through.

Getting Ready to Sew

Before you start using your awl for heavy duty sewing, you need a few things.

Your sewing awl: Make sure it’s in good shape.
Strong thread: Use thread made for stitching thick fabric or hand sewing leather. Waxed thread works best. It is strong and slides easily. It also resists water.
Your material: The leather, canvas, or other thick material you want to sew.
Something to mark with: A pencil or scratch awl to mark your stitch line.
Pliers (sometimes): Handy for pulling the needle through very tough spots.

Choosing the right thread is key. Use thick, strong thread. Thin thread will break when you pull it tight in thick material. The thread usually comes with the awl. You can buy more when you run out. Look for thread specifically for leather sewing tools.

Choosing the right needle is also important. Awls often come with different needles.

A thicker needle makes bigger holes for thicker thread.
A thinner needle makes smaller holes for finer work.

Make sure the needle matches your thread size. The thread must fit through the needle’s eye easily.

Step-by-Step: Using Your Sewing Awl

Now, let’s learn the stitching awl technique. This is how you make that strong lock stitch awl using the Speedy Stitcher awl.

Step 1: Setting Up the Thread

First, you need to get the thread ready.

Untwist the end of the handle.
Take out the old spool if there is one.
Put the new spool of thread inside the handle.
Thread the loose end of the thread through the small hole at the end of the handle. This hole is usually near the needle.
Pull a few inches of thread out of the handle.

Step 2: Threading the Needle

This is a key part of threading a sewing awl.

Look at the needle. It has an eye near the point.
Push the end of the thread you pulled from the handle through this eye.
Pull about 10-12 inches of thread through the needle’s eye. You will have a long piece of thread hanging from the needle. This long piece is the ‘tail’. The thread still coming from the handle is the ‘supply’ thread.

Make sure the thread is coming from the correct side of the needle eye. The needle is usually flat on one side near the eye. The thread should come out on the side opposite the flat part. This helps the thread lay right when you stitch.

Step 3: Getting Your Material Ready

Before sewing, prepare the item you are working on.

Lay your material flat.
If you want a straight line of stitches, mark it with a pencil or other tool.
You might mark where each stitch should go, like small dots along the line. Even spacing looks best.

For beginners, marking helps keep your stitches neat. As you get better, you might sew by eye.

Step 4: Making the First Stitch

This is where the sewing begins.

Hold the awl like a pencil or knife, ready to push down.
Push the needle of the awl through your material at your starting mark. Push it all the way through until the thread eye clears the back side.
Keep the handle steady.
On the back side of the material, you will see the needle tip and the thread coming out of its eye.
Reach under and grab the thread that is hanging from the needle’s eye (the ‘tail’). Pull about 4-6 inches of this tail thread through the hole you just made.
Now, pull the awl back out of the material. As you pull the awl out, the needle’s eye will pull the thread coming from the handle (the ‘supply’ thread) partway through the hole.
You will now have two loops of thread coming from the hole on the front side of your material. And the thread tail you pulled through will be on the back side.

This first stitch sets up the lock stitch awl process.

Step 5: Continuing the Stitch (The `Stitching Awl Technique`)

This is the core process you repeat for each stitch. This is the stitching awl technique.

Move the awl to your next stitch mark.
Push the needle all the way through the material again. Make sure it goes through cleanly.
Look at the back side. The needle is sticking through, and the supply thread is coming from the needle’s eye. You also have the original thread tail from the first stitch hanging out nearby.
Now, here is the key step: Take the original thread tail (the one you pulled through the first hole) and pass it through the loop of supply thread hanging from the needle on the back side.
Once the tail is through that loop, pull the awl back out of the material. As you pull the awl out, the needle pulls the supply thread loop tighter around the thread tail you just passed through it.
Now you have two loops on the front side again. The supply thread loop from the awl, and the loop you just pulled the tail through.
Take the original thread tail again. Pull it firmly towards the front side. This pulls the supply thread loop (which is now around the tail) through to the front side.
You should now have the thread tail on the front side, and a loop of supply thread also on the front side.
Pull both the supply thread (the loop) and the thread tail at the same time. Pull them sideways, flat against the material. This tightens the stitch. You will see the stitch form on both sides. Make sure it is snug but not so tight it tears the material.

This is the complete stitching awl technique for one stitch. You repeat this step for every stitch along your line.

Let’s break down Step 5 again with a list for clarity:

Push awl needle through the next mark.
Find the supply thread loop coming from the needle on the back.
Take the original thread tail and pass it through this supply thread loop on the back.
Pull the awl back out of the material. The supply thread loop comes partway through to the front, carrying the tail with it.
You now have the original tail and a new supply thread loop on the front side.
Pull the original thread tail firmly through the new supply thread loop. This pulls the supply thread loop to the front.
You now have the original tail and the pulled-through supply thread loop on the front.
Pull both threads sideways, flat against the material, to tighten the stitch.

Repeat steps 5.1 through 5.8 for each stitch.

Step 6: Ending Your Stitch Line

When you reach the end of your marked line, you need to finish the stitching securely.

Make your last regular stitch following Step 5.
After tightening the last stitch, you will have the thread tail and the supply thread loop on the front side.
Instead of pulling the loop tight for another stitch, leave the loop loose on the front.
Take the thread tail and pass it back through this last loose loop again.
Now, pull both the thread tail and the supply thread (coming from the awl) to tighten this final knot. Pull them sideways as usual. This makes a double pass through the last loop for extra security.
You can make another knot by hand right on the surface. Tie the two threads together tightly, close to the material.
Trim the threads. Leave a small end, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. You can lightly melt the ends of synthetic threads or tuck and glue them for natural threads.

Another way to finish is to push the awl through the very last hole one more time but just part way. Hook the thread tail onto the needle and pull the needle back out without grabbing the supply thread loop on the back. This pulls the tail to the back. Then you can tie the tail and the supply thread together on the back side and trim. This hides the knot.

Deciphering Good Stitching Tips

Making nice, strong stitches takes practice. Here are some tips for using your leather sewing tool.

Keep Tension Even: Try to pull the threads tight with the same force for every stitch. This makes the stitches look even and strong. Too loose, and the stitches are weak. Too tight, and you might pull the thread through or tear the material.
Wax Your Thread: Even if the thread is already waxed, adding more beeswax or special thread wax helps a lot. It makes the thread slide through the material and the loops smoothly. It also adds strength and water resistance.
Straight and Even Holes: Try to push the awl straight down into the material. Keep the distance between holes the same. Marking your line helps greatly.
Use the Right Needle: Match your needle size to your thread and material thickness.
Sharp Needle: A sharp needle goes through tough materials much easier. Some awl needles can be sharpened.
Pre-punching (Optional): For very thick or hard materials, you can use a round awl or punch to make the holes first. Then use your sewing awl to stitch through the ready holes. This can make sewing faster and easier on your hands. This is less common with the Speedy Stitcher awl which is designed to punch as it goes.

Common Projects for Your Awl

The Speedy Stitcher awl and similar tools are perfect awl for heavy duty sewing. What kind of things can you use it for?

Hand Sewing Leather: Belts, bags, wallets, sheaths, small repairs on jackets or furniture. It makes a strong, classic saddle stitch look.
Repairing Canvas: Ripped tents, tarps, boat covers, awnings, canvas bags.
Repairing Upholstery: Fixing tears in car seats, furniture covers, boat cushions.
Saddlery and Harness: Repairing horse tack, straps, belts. The lock stitch awl is very strong for this.
Shoe and Boot Repair: Mending seams on heavy work boots or hiking shoes.
Sporting Goods: Fixing baseball gloves, sports equipment bags.
Pet Gear: Repairing dog collars, leashes, beds.

It is a versatile leather sewing tool that can fix many things around the house, workshop, or campsite.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Sometimes things don’t go perfectly. Here are some problems you might face and how to fix them.

Thread Snags: The thread might get caught as you pull it through the loop or material.
- Fix: Make sure your needle eye is clear. Check the thread path through the handle hole. Add more wax to the thread. Pull the thread gently but firmly. Don’t force it hard if it snags badly; it might break.
Needle Breaks: Pushing too hard or bending the needle can cause it to break.
- Fix: Use pliers to help push the needle through if the material is very tough. Don’t bend the needle sideways. Make sure you are pushing straight. If it breaks, you will need to replace it. Most awls let you swap needles.
Uneven Stitches: Stitches might look messy or spaced differently.
- Fix: Mark your stitch line and spacing carefully beforehand. Work on keeping your thread tension the same for every stitch. Practice helps the most here.
Thread Bird Nests (Looping): Extra loops of thread appear on one side. This means the lock stitch awl did not form correctly.
- Fix: You likely missed passing the thread tail through the supply thread loop in Step 5. Or you didn’t pull the loops tight enough after passing the tail through. Go back to Step 5 and practice passing the tail through the loop and then pulling both threads to tighten.
Difficulty Pulling Through: The needle or thread is hard to pull through the material.
- Fix: Your thread might be too thick for the needle or material. Your material might be extremely dense; try pre-punching holes. Use pliers to help pull the needle through. Add more wax to the thread.

Grasping Care and Keeping

Taking care of your leather sewing tool helps it last longer and work better.

Clean the Needle: Bits of material can build up on the needle. Wipe it clean now and then.
Keep it Dry: Wood handles can crack if they get too wet and then dry out. Store your awl in a dry place.
Check the Chuck: Make sure the metal part holding the needle is tight. This keeps the needle from wobbling or falling out.
Store Thread Properly: Keep extra thread spools tidy and protected from dust or dirt.

Alternatives to the Awl

The Speedy Stitcher awl is one way to do hand sewing leather and stitching thick fabric. Another classic leather sewing tool is the two-needle saddle stitch.

Two-Needle Saddle Stitch: You use a punch or awl to make all the holes first. Then you use two needles on one piece of thread. You pass one needle through from the front, then the other needle through from the back, criss-crossing in the hole. Then you pull both tight. This also makes a very strong lock stitch awl type stitch.
Comparison: The sewing awl lets you punch and stitch in one motion (mostly). The two-needle method needs holes made first but gives you precise control over the stitch tension from both sides. For fixing existing items, the sewing awl is often faster and easier, especially for jobs like repairing canvas. For making new, neat leather goods, the two-needle method is popular.

Both are great for awl for heavy duty sewing, just different methods.

Conclusion: The Mighty Awl

The sewing awl, especially the Speedy Stitcher awl type, is a valuable leather sewing tool. It lets you make strong, reliable stitches by hand on materials too tough for regular needles. Mastering the stitching awl technique means you can handle stitching thick fabric, repairing canvas, and all sorts of hand sewing leather projects. From threading the needle to finishing a stitch line, each step builds the robust lock stitch awl that holds up under strain. It’s a simple tool, but with a bit of practice, it becomes a powerful friend for all your awl for heavy duty sewing needs. Keep it clean, use good thread, and you’ll be fixing and creating for years to come.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I use regular sewing machine thread in my sewing awl?
No, regular machine thread is usually too thin and weak. It will break easily when sewing thick materials and tightening the stitch. You need strong, thick thread designed for awl for heavy duty sewing or hand sewing leather. Often it is waxed.
How do I change the needle on a Speedy Stitcher awl?
Most Speedy Stitcher awls have a metal collar or chuck near the needle. You can loosen this collar (often by unscrewing it slightly) to release the needle. Put the new needle in and tighten the collar firmly. Make sure the flat side of the needle is facing the right way for the thread path.
My stitches are loose. What am I doing wrong?
Loose stitches usually mean you are not pulling the thread tight enough after forming each stitch. In Step 5, after pulling the thread tail through the loop on the front, you must pull both threads sideways firmly to set the stitch snug against the material. Consistent tension is key.
Is the lock stitch made by an awl the same as a sewing machine lock stitch?
Yes, the basic structure is the same. Both methods create a stitch where two threads are locked together within the layers of the material. This makes a strong stitch where if one stitch breaks, the ones next to it tend to stay locked. The awl does it by hand, a machine does it automatically. The awl stitch is often seen as slightly stronger because you use very thick, heavy-duty thread.
What kind of thread is best for a sewing awl?
Look for heavy-duty, waxed polyester or nylon thread. Polyester and nylon are strong and resist rot. Waxing helps the thread pass through materials smoothly and adds durability. Sizes are often measured by denier or thickness numbers; thicker numbers mean thicker thread. Match the thread thickness to your needle and the material.
Can I sew curves with a sewing awl?
Yes, you can sew curves. Mark your curve clearly. Make your stitches closer together on tighter curves. This helps the stitch line follow the curve smoothly. Push the awl straight down at each point along the curve.
How much thread should I pull out when threading a sewing awl?
When threading a sewing awl, pull out about 10-12 inches of the thread tail from the needle eye. This gives you enough thread to work with comfortably for passing through the loops. You don’t need a super long tail.
My awl is hard to push through the material.
Make sure your needle is sharp. Check if the material is extra thick or dense; you might need to pre-punch holes. Add more wax to your thread. Use pliers if needed to grip the needle and help push/pull it through. Don’t force it too much, as the needle could break.