Your Guide: How To Blind Hem On A Sewing Machine Like a Pro

A blind hem is a sewing finish that looks almost hidden on the outside of your garment. It is a great way to finish edges on skirts, pants, and curtains because the stitches are hard to see. Using a sewing machine makes this job quick and easy. You can make your projects look professional with this simple skill. This guide will show you how.

Getting Ready to Sew a Blind Hem

To sew a blind hem with your machine, you need a few things. Having the right tools makes the job much easier.

What You Will Need

Your Sewing Machine: Most modern sewing machines have a blind hem stitch. Look at your machine’s stitch options to find it.
A Sewing Machine Blind Hem Foot: This is a special foot. It helps guide the fabric for the blind hem stitch. Your machine might come with one. If not, you can buy one. It usually has a blade or a wall down the center. This guide helps keep your fold straight. Using a blind hem foot is key to getting a nice, even stitch.
Thread: Pick thread that matches your fabric color. This helps the stitch blend in and look hidden. You can also use thread a shade darker. Sometimes darker thread hides better than lighter thread on certain fabrics.
Fabric: You need the item you want to hem. Make sure it is pressed smoothly.
Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing helps make crisp folds. This is very important for a good blind hem.
Pins or Clips: These hold your fabric folds in place before you sew.
Fabric Scissors: To trim the fabric if needed.
Measuring Tape or Ruler: To measure your hem depth.

Having a sewing machine blind hem foot is really important. It is designed specifically for this stitch. It has a guide that runs along the fold of your fabric. This guide keeps your stitches in the perfect spot. Without this foot, it is much harder to get a consistent blind hem.

Preparing Your Fabric for the Hem

Getting the fabric ready is a big part of a good blind hem. The way you fold the fabric is special. This fold hides most of the stitches.

How to Fold Fabric for Blind Hem

This step is maybe the most important. The correct fold makes the hem look invisible.

Decide Your Hem Depth: How wide do you want your finished hem to be? This is the part of the hem that shows on the inside of the garment. A common depth is 1 inch or 1.5 inches.
Add Extra Fabric: You need more fabric than your finished hem depth. You need enough to fold twice. A good rule is to leave about 2 to 3 times your desired finished hem depth in extra fabric. For a 1-inch hem, leave 2 to 3 inches of fabric below the hemline.
Press the First Fold: Turn the raw edge of the fabric up towards the wrong side. Fold it up by about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. Press this fold neatly. This tucks the raw edge inside the hem. It makes a clean finish.
- For some fabrics, you might just serge or zig-zag the raw edge instead of folding it under. This is faster but the double fold looks cleaner.
Press the Second Fold: Now, fold the fabric up again. Fold it so the first pressed edge is hidden inside. The amount you fold up now sets your finished hem depth. If you want a 1-inch hem, fold it up 1 inch from the first fold line. Press this fold very well. You should now have a clean folded edge. The raw edge is hidden inside this main hem fold.
Make the Special Blind Hem Fold: This is the unique part. Fold the hem back on itself towards the right side of the fabric. You will fold it right along the edge of the main hem fold you just made. Leave just a tiny bit of the first fabric layer showing below this new fold. You are making a small flap. Only about 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch of the main fabric should stick out below the fold you just made. The bulk of the hem is folded back on top.
- Imagine the fabric is lying flat. You fold the bottom edge up twice to make the hem. Now, you take that whole hem section and fold it back down. You are folding it down onto the right side of the fabric. You leave just a little edge (the 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch flap) showing.
Pin or Clip the Fold: Use pins or clips to hold this special fold in place. Place the pins pointing upwards, in line with the small flap of fabric you left exposed. This will make it easy to remove them as you sew.

Here is a simple way to think about the folding:

Step	Action	Result
Step 1	Fold raw edge up (1/4″ to 1/2″)	Raw edge is hidden
Step 2	Fold up again by desired hem depth (e.g., 1″)	Main hem created, raw edge tucked inside
Step 3	Fold the entire hem back onto the right side of the fabric	Small flap of original fabric shows below
Step 4	Pin or clip this last fold	Fabric ready for the blind hem stitch

Getting this fold right is critical for the machine blind stitch technique to work. The stitch needs to catch the tiny flap of fabric you left exposed.

Setting Up Your Sewing Machine

Once your fabric is folded and pressed, it’s time to set up your machine. This involves changing the foot and selecting the correct stitch.

Attaching the Blind Hem Foot

Most machines have snap-on feet.

Raise the needle and presser foot lever.
Press the button or lever on the back of the current foot to release it.
Position the sewing machine blind hem foot under the presser foot bar.
Lower the presser foot lever. The foot should snap into place. If it doesn’t, check that it is lined up correctly.

Each machine is different, so check your manual if you have trouble.

Selecting Blind Hem Stitch Machine Settings

Find the blind hem stitch on your machine. It usually looks like a series of straight stitches with a zig-zag stitch that jumps out to the side every few stitches.

Look for a stitch symbol like this: ----\_----\_----\_

This stitch works by sewing several straight stitches on the main hem fabric (the part that will be inside). Then, it makes one wider zig-zag stitch that swings over to the left. This zig-zag stitch should just catch the small flap of fabric you left exposed on the main garment.

Here is how to set your machine:

Select the Blind Hem Stitch: Use your machine’s dial or screen to pick the blind hem stitch.
Adjust Stitch Length: Start with a stitch length of about 2 to 3 mm. A shorter length means more straight stitches between the zig-zags. This makes the stitch stronger but less “invisible.” A longer length means fewer straight stitches. This makes the stitch more hidden but possibly weaker. You can test and change this later.
Adjust Stitch Width: This is very important. This sets how wide the zig-zag swing is. You want the zig-zag to go just wide enough to catch the very edge of the fabric flap. Start with a medium width, maybe 3 to 5 mm. You will fine-tune this later.
Adjusting Tension for Blind Hem: Thread tension is key for any sewing, but especially for an invisible hem sewing machine stitch. If the tension is too tight, the stitches will pull and pucker the fabric. The stitches might also show more on the right side. If tension is too loose, the stitches will loop and be messy.
- Upper tension: Start with your normal setting (often around 4 or 5).
- Bobbin tension: Usually you don’t change bobbin tension.
- Test on scrap fabric: Always test your settings on a scrap piece of the same fabric. Sew a sample blind hem. Look at the stitches on both sides. Adjust the upper tension dial slightly if needed. If the bobbin thread shows on the top, reduce the upper tension. If the needle thread shows on the bottom, increase the upper tension. The goal is balanced tension. You want the threads to meet neatly within the fabric layers.

Remember that settings like Singer blind hem stitch numbers or Brother stitch numbers might be different. Always check your machine’s manual for the exact stitch number and suggested starting settings.

Sewing the Blind Hem

Now you are ready to sew. This is where the special foot and the special fold work together.

Performing the Machine Blind Stitch Technique

Place your folded fabric under the presser foot. The folded edge that forms the small flap should be on the left side of the sewing machine blind hem foot. The main part of the hem (the bulkier fold) should be on the right side, against the guide blade of the foot.

Position the Fabric: Put the fabric under the foot. Line up the fold so that the guide blade on the blind hem foot runs right along the folded edge of the main hem. The small flap of fabric should be to the left of the guide.
Test Placement with Needle: Turn the handwheel slowly towards you. Watch where the needle goes. The straight stitches should land on the main hem fabric (to the right of the guide). The zig-zag stitch should swing left and just pierce the small flap of fabric on the left. The goal is for the needle to catch only a few threads of the main fabric with the zig-zag.
Adjust Foot Position (if possible): Many blind hem feet have a screw you can turn to move the guide blade left or right. Adjust this screw until the zig-zag stitch is hitting the fabric flap exactly where you want it. You want it to catch just the edge of the flap.
Start Sewing: Begin sewing slowly. Keep the folded edge of the main hem right against the guide blade of the foot. The foot’s guide does the work of keeping your stitching line straight.
Remove Pins: Take out the pins as you come to them. Do not sew over pins.
Keep the Fold Lined Up: Pay attention to the special fold. Make sure the small flap stays consistently positioned against the left side of the foot. This is key to getting a nice invisible hem sewing machine stitch.
Sew All the Way Around: Continue sewing along the entire hem. When you get back to the start, overlap your stitches by about 1/2 inch and backstitch gently to secure the end. Be careful not to backstitch too much or it will be visible.

Using a blind hem foot correctly is about keeping that folded edge pressed against the guide. The foot makes sure the straight stitches are on the main hem fabric and the zig-zag stitch jumps over at the right time to grab the garment fabric flap.

Checking Your Blind Hem

After sewing, take the item out of the machine.

Press the Hem: Unfold the hem fully. Press the entire hem area flat from the wrong side. Pressing is very important. It helps the stitches sink into the fabric and makes the hem look smooth.
Check the Right Side: Turn the garment to the right side. Look closely at the hemline. You should see only tiny little dots where the zig-zag stitch caught the fabric. If you see loops or longer stitches, the tension might be off, or the stitch width is too wide, or you didn’t catch the fold correctly.
Check the Wrong Side: Look at the inside of the hem. You will see the straight stitches and the zig-zag stitches clearly on the hem allowance.

A successful blind hem shows very little on the right side.

Fixing Problems: Troubleshooting Blind Hem

Sometimes things don’t go perfectly. Here are some common problems and how to fix them. This is your guide to troubleshooting blind hem issues.

Problem: Stitches Show Too Much on the Right Side

Why it Happens: The zig-zag stitch is catching too much fabric, or the tension is too tight, pulling the stitches.
How to Fix:
- Check your fold: Is the flap of fabric you left out too wide? You only need about 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch. Refold and press.
- Adjust stitch width: Make the stitch width narrower. Use your scrap fabric to test until the zig-zag just barely catches the edge of the flap.
- Adjust upper tension: Your upper thread tension might be too tight. Lower the tension setting slightly (e.g., from 4 to 3.5). Test again.
- Adjust foot guide: If your foot has an adjustable guide, make sure it is positioned so the needle hits the edge of the flap correctly.

Problem: Stitches are Missing the Fabric Flap

Why it Happens: The zig-zag stitch is not wide enough, or the fabric fold isn’t lined up correctly with the foot.
How to Fix:
- Check your fold: Is the flap wide enough? It needs to be at least 1/4 inch.
- Adjust stitch width: Make the stitch width wider. Test on scrap fabric.
- Adjust foot guide: Move the guide on your foot so the needle swings over and catches the flap.
- Guide the fabric correctly: Make sure you are keeping the folded edge of the main hem pressed against the guide blade of the foot as you sew.

Problem: Uneven Stitches or Puckering

Why it Happens: Tension issues, fabric feeding problems, or fabric not being pressed well.
How to Fix:
- Adjust tension: Check both upper and lower tension. Sew test samples. Is your bobbin threaded correctly?
- Check needle: Is your needle bent or dull? Change it. Use the right needle for your fabric type.
- Check machine settings: Is your stitch length or width extreme? Use suggested starting points and test.
- Pressing: Make sure your fabric is pressed very flat before you start sewing. A crisp fold helps the foot guide the fabric smoothly.
- Fabric Type: Some fabrics, especially stretchy or very thin ones, are harder to blind hem. See the section on fabric types.

Problem: Skipped Stitches

Why it Happens: Wrong needle, old needle, threading issues, or sometimes fabric type.
How to Fix:
- Change the needle: This is the most common cause of skipped stitches. Use a new, sharp needle.
- Use the correct needle type: Ballpoint for knits, universal or microtex for wovens.
- Re-thread your machine: Make sure the machine is threaded correctly with the presser foot up. Re-thread the bobbin too.
- Clean your machine: Lint build-up can cause problems. Clean around the bobbin area and feed dogs.

By carefully checking your stitch, tension, and fabric fold, you can usually fix most blind hem problems. Patience and testing on scraps are your best tools when troubleshooting blind hem issues.

Fabric Types for Blind Hemming

The success of a blind hem often depends on the fabric you are using. Some fabric types for blind hemming are easier than others.

Best Fabrics for Blind Hemming

Medium-weight Wovens: Cotton, linen, twill, and blends are great. They hold a crease well and are stable.
Wool and Wool Blends: These fabrics press beautifully and the blind stitch sinks right in, making it very invisible.
Some Stable Knits: If the knit fabric doesn’t roll much and is not too stretchy, you can often blind hem it. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle.

More Difficult Fabrics

Lightweight and Sheer Fabrics: These fabrics are tricky. The stitches might show easily. You might need a very fine needle and thread. Sometimes a rolled hem or a narrow double-fold hem sewn close to the edge is better for these.
Very Stretchy Knits: The stitch can stretch and become visible. The fabric might also stretch out of shape as you sew. A coverstitch hem or a twin needle hem might be better.
Bulky Fabrics: Very thick fabrics can be hard to fold neatly. The hem can be very bulky. Consider finishing the raw edge differently and just doing a single fold hem sewn with a different stitch.
Slippery Fabrics: Satin, silk, and rayon can shift easily. Pinning carefully and sewing slowly is key. Using a walking foot (instead of the blind hem foot) might sometimes help control slippery fabric, though it makes it harder to guide the stitch accurately. You might need to hand-baste the fold first.

When working with different fabric types for blind hemming, always test your stitch on a scrap. Check how visible the stitch is and how the fabric handles the folding and sewing. You might need to adjust stitch length, width, tension, or even the type of needle you are using.

Refining Your Machine Blind Stitch Technique

Getting a perfect blind hem takes practice. Here are some tips to improve your machine blind stitch technique.

Tips for a Professional Look

Press, Press, Press: I cannot say this enough. Pressing your folds sharply is crucial. It makes the fabric lie flat and helps the blind hem foot do its job. Press before you sew, and press after you sew.
Use Matching Thread: Choose thread that blends in perfectly with your fabric color. If you can’t find an exact match, pick a thread that is slightly darker than the fabric, not lighter.
Test on Scraps: Always sew a sample blind hem on a scrap of the same fabric, using the same number of layers. Adjust your stitch width and tension on the scrap until the stitches are almost invisible on the right side.
Sew Slowly: Do not rush. Guide the fabric gently, keeping the fold against the blind hem foot’s guide. Let the machine do the work.
Start and Stop Neatly: To make the start and end invisible, sew a few stitches and then gently backstitch a stitch or two within the sewn line. Or, leave thread tails and hand-tie them securely.
Think About Stitch Length: A slightly longer straight stitch between the zig-zags (a longer stitch length) can make the zig-zag less frequent, making the hem look more invisible. But don’t make it too long or the hem might not be strong.
Consider the Fabric Grain: Try to sew with the grain of the fabric if possible, like sewing from the outside seam inwards on pants legs. This can sometimes help prevent stretching or distortion.
Handle Curves Carefully: Blind hemming curves is harder than straight lines. You might need to clip the seam allowance before folding to help it lay flat. Go very slowly on curves.

By paying attention to these details, your invisible hem sewing machine results will improve greatly.

Blind Hem Stitch vs. Other Hems

Why choose a blind hem? How does it compare to other ways to finish an edge?

Comparing Hem Finishes

Blind Hem: Looks almost invisible on the right side. Great for clothing and home decor where you don’t want the stitches to show. Can be machine sewn or hand-sewn. Machine blind stitch is faster than hand sewing.
Double-Fold Hem (Standard Hem): The raw edge is folded under twice and then stitched. You see a line of stitches on the right side. This is strong and neat, good for casual clothing, towels, and sturdy fabrics. It is more visible than a blind hem.
Single-Fold Hem with Finished Edge: The raw edge is finished first (with a serger, zig-zag, or binding). Then the edge is folded up once and stitched. Stitches show on the right side. Often used on heavier fabrics or when you want to save length.
Rolled Hem: A very narrow hem, often used on lightweight or sheer fabrics. The fabric edge is rolled tightly and stitched. Can be done by hand or machine (often with a special foot). It’s a visible, decorative hem.
Facing Hem: A separate piece of fabric (the facing) is sewn to the edge and turned inside. No stitches show on the right side, similar to a blind hem. Used on shaped hems or where a blind hem might be too difficult.

A machine blind hem is a great choice when you want the speed of machine sewing but the nearly invisible look of hand sewing. It gives a clean, professional finish to many projects.

Caring for Garments with Blind Hems

Once you’ve sewn a beautiful blind hem, you want it to last.

Washing and Pressing Blind Hems

Washing: Most blind hems are quite durable if sewn correctly with proper tension. Wash the item according to the fabric care instructions. Avoid excessive pulling or stretching on the hem area, especially when wet.
Drying: Tumble drying is usually fine, but air drying can help preserve the hem’s shape and prevent stretching.
Pressing: Pressing is key to keeping a blind hem looking good. Press the hem from the wrong side. Use the correct iron temperature for your fabric. Avoid pressing directly on the stitches from the right side if possible, as this can flatten the fabric pile and make the stitches more visible. Use a pressing cloth if needed.

Taking a little extra care when washing and pressing will keep your invisible hem sewing machine finish looking its best.

Frequently Asked Questions About Blind Hems

Here are answers to some common questions about blind hemming.

Q: Can I blind hem any fabric?
A: While you can attempt it on most fabrics, some are much easier than others. Medium-weight wovens and stable fabrics are best. Lightweight, sheer, very stretchy, or bulky fabrics can be difficult. Always test first. See the section on fabric types for blind hemming.

Q: Do I need a special foot?
A: While you can do a blind hem without a special foot by carefully guiding the fabric, using a sewing machine blind hem foot is highly recommended. It has a guide that helps you sew straight and ensures the zig-zag stitch catches the fabric correctly. This makes the job much easier and gives a much better result.

Q: What stitch length and width should I use?
A: Start with a stitch length of 2-3mm and a width of 3-5mm. These are starting points. You must test on a scrap of your fabric and adjust the width so the zig-zag just barely catches the fabric flap. The length can be adjusted to change how frequent the zig-zags are. Refer to blind hem stitch machine settings.

Q: My stitches are showing too much! What am I doing wrong?
A: This is a common issue when troubleshooting blind hem. Check these things:
* Is your stitch width too wide? Make it narrower.
* Is your upper tension too tight? Lower it slightly.
* Is your fabric folded correctly? The flap should be small, only about 1/4 inch.
* Are you using matching thread?
* Are you pressing the hem flat after sewing?

Q: Can I use a blind hem stitch on knit fabrics?
A: Yes, but be careful. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle. The knit should be stable, not overly stretchy. Too much stretch can make the stitches pop or distort the fabric. A coverstitch or twin needle hem might be better for very stretchy knits.

Q: How do I make sure the zig-zag stitch catches just a little bit of fabric?
A: This is part of the machine blind stitch technique.
1. Make sure you fold the fabric with a small flap (1/4″ to 3/8″) left exposed.
2. Use your sewing machine blind hem foot.
3. Position the fabric so the main folded edge runs along the guide of the foot. The flap is on the left.
4. Adjust your stitch width and the foot’s guide (if adjustable) by slowly turning the handwheel or sewing a test stitch. Make sure the needle swings over just enough to grab the edge of the flap.

Q: Why is pressing so important for a blind hem?
A: Pressing creates crisp, stable folds. This allows the fabric to feed smoothly under the presser foot and helps you keep the edge aligned with the foot’s guide. Pressing after sewing helps the stitches sink into the fabric and makes the hem look neat and smooth.

Q: My Singer machine has a blind hem stitch. Is it different?
A: The stitch itself is the same type (straight stitches with a zig-zag). The stitch number or symbol might be different on your Singer blind hem stitch compared to other brands. Always check your Singer manual for the correct stitch number and suggested starting settings for length and width.

Q: Is an invisible hem the same as a blind hem?
A: Yes, an invisible hem sewing machine stitch is just another name for a machine blind hem. The goal is the same: stitches that are hard to see on the outside.

Conclusion

Sewing a blind hem on your machine is a skill that adds a professional touch to your projects. It might seem tricky at first, especially getting the special fold and the stitch settings right. But with practice, it becomes much easier.

Remember to prepare your fabric well by pressing crisp folds. Use your sewing machine blind hem foot and line up the fabric carefully. Test your blind hem stitch machine settings on scrap fabric. Pay attention to adjusting tension for blind hem.

Don’t be afraid to use the troubleshooting blind hem tips if you run into problems. Check your fold, your settings, your tension, and your needle. Consider how different fabric types for blind hemming might behave.

Keep practicing your machine blind stitch technique. Soon, you’ll be creating beautiful, nearly invisible hems like a pro!