Have you ever wondered how to sew a hem on a garment without the stitches showing on the outside? Can a regular sewing machine create this nearly invisible seam? Yes, you can use your sewing machine to make a blind stitch hem, and it’s a great skill for sewing clothes and home decor. This technique, often called a sewing machine blind hem or invisible stitch sewing machine method, helps you get a clean, professional finish on skirts, pants, curtains, and more. It hides most of the thread on the inside of the fabric fold.
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What is a Blind Stitch Hem?
A blind stitch hem is a special type of stitch. It joins fabric layers with stitches that are mostly hidden within the fold of the hem. Only tiny picks of thread show on the outside of the fabric. If you use thread that matches your fabric well, these small picks are very hard to see. This makes the hem look almost invisible from the right side of your project. It is a key skill in machine hemming techniques.
Why Choose a Blind Stitch?
- Clean Look: It gives a neat finish. The hem doesn’t have a line of visible stitches on the outside.
- Professional Touch: It looks like store-bought clothes or high-end sewing.
- Good for Many Fabrics: It works well on many types of fabric, from light to medium weight. It is especially nice for fabrics where you don’t want stitches to show, like dress fabrics or fine linens.
- Faster Than Hand Sewing: While it looks like hand sewing, using a machine is much quicker.
The Essential Tool: The Blind Hem Presser Foot
To do a blind stitch on your sewing machine, you really need a special tool. This tool is called a blind hem presser foot. Most modern sewing machines come with one. It looks a bit different from a standard foot. It has a guide or blade running down the middle. This guide helps you fold your fabric just right. It also has a little groove on the bottom. This groove helps the fabric layers move smoothly under the needle.
How the Blind Hem Foot Works
The blind hem foot is clever. It helps the machine make the special blind stitch pattern. The stitch pattern looks like this: it makes several straight stitches parallel to the folded edge, then one wider zigzag stitch that goes just over the folded edge and picks up a tiny bit of the main fabric. The foot’s guide makes sure your fabric fold stays in the right place. This ensures the zigzag stitch catches just a small amount of the main fabric edge. This is key to making the stitch almost invisible. Using a blind stitch foot correctly is vital for a good result.
Getting Ready: Your Machine and Fabric
Before you start sewing, you need to set up your sewing machine and prepare your fabric. This preparation is important for a successful blind hem.
Blind Stitch Machine Settings
First, find the blind stitch setting on your machine. It might have a picture of a hem with zigzag stitches jumping over a fold. On some machines, it’s a specific stitch number. Look in your machine’s manual if you’re not sure. This is a crucial part of setting up your invisible stitch sewing machine.
Here are the usual settings you will need:
- Stitch Type: Select the blind hem stitch. It looks like straight stitches with occasional zigzags.
- Stitch Length: You can adjust how far apart the straight stitches are. A setting between 2 and 3 is common. Try a test piece first.
- Stitch Width: This sets how wide the zigzag part is. This is very important! The zigzag needs to be wide enough to catch the fold edge but not too wide that it goes deep into the main fabric. You can adjust this. Start around 2 or 3 and test. This is your adjustable blind hem stitch width.
- Thread Tension: Use a thread tension setting that looks balanced. Stitches should lie flat. They should not be too tight (causing puckers) or too loose (making loops).
Preparing Your Fabric for Hemming
Getting the fabric ready is the first step in your blind stitch tutorial.
- Finish the Raw Edge: First, finish the raw edge of your fabric. You can serge it, use a zigzag stitch, or fold it under once. This stops the fabric from fraying.
- Press the Hem: Fold the hem up. The usual amount is between 1 inch and 2 inches. Press this fold flat. Use an iron.
- Fold Again: Now, fold the hem back on itself, but only part of the way. Fold it so the finished raw edge is visible and sits about 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch away from the first pressed fold (the bottom edge of the hem). This second fold is where the blind hem foot guide will sit. Press this second fold well. This creates a double fold: the main hem allowance folded up, and then that allowance folded back on itself. Look at the picture below to see this special fold.
[Diagram Idea: Right Side of Fabric (face up) —————————————— Fold Line 1 (Bottom of Hem) —————————————— <- Hem Allowance Fold Line 2 (Inner fold, where raw edge is) —————————————— <- Raw Edge (finished) The blind hem foot guide runs along Fold Line 2.]
This double fold is key. The machine will sew the straight stitches on the folded-back hem allowance. The zigzag stitch will hop over Fold Line 2 and just catch the main fabric near Fold Line 1. This technique is part of many machine hemming techniques.
The Sewing Process: Your Blind Stitch Tutorial
Now you are ready to sew. Put the blind hem presser foot on your machine.
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Place Fabric: Open up the last fold you made. Place the fabric under the blind hem foot. Position the fabric so the guide on the foot lines up with the first pressed fold (the bottom edge of the hem). The bulk of the folded hem allowance should be to the right of the guide. The main fabric should be to the left.
[Diagram Idea: Needle Fabric Right Side Up | / V / <-- Main Fabric [---] <--- Blind Hem Foot Guide aligns here (along the bottom edge fold) [ ] <--- Folded Hem Allowance (wrong side up) -
Start Sewing: Begin sewing slowly. Watch the guide. Make sure it stays right against the fold. The straight stitches will sew on the folded hem allowance.
- Watch the Zigzag: As you sew, the machine will make a zigzag stitch every few straight stitches. Watch where this zigzag stitch lands. It should just barely catch the fold of the main fabric (the fold that the guide is running against). This is where the adjustable blind hem stitch width comes in.
- Adjust Stitch Width: If the zigzag is missing the fold or going too far into the fabric, stop sewing. Adjust the stitch width setting on your machine. A wider setting makes the zigzag reach further left. A narrower setting makes it reach less far. Test on a scrap piece first!
- Keep Guide Aligned: The most important thing is to keep the fold line (the edge you are hemming) running right next to the guide on the blind hem foot. The foot does most of the work if you keep the fabric positioned correctly.
Tips for Perfect Alignment
- Go Slow: There is no rush. Sewing slowly helps you control the fabric.
- Use Pins: Pin the hem fold in place before you start. Remove pins as you sew.
- Finger Press: Use your fingers to help guide the fabric and keep the fold crisp right in front of the foot.
- Check From The Right Side: Stop every so often and look at the right side of the fabric. See if the stitches are picking up just a tiny bit or if they are too visible. Adjust your stitch width if needed.
Mastering the Adjustable Blind Hem Stitch
The beauty of machine blind hemming is the ability to adjust the stitch. The stitch has two main parts: the straight stitches and the zigzag stitch.
- Straight Stitches: These are sewn on the hem allowance fold. They don’t show on the outside of the fabric at all. The length of these stitches affects how durable the hem is and how many zigzag stitches you get per inch. Shorter stitches mean more zigzags, potentially making the pick-up stitches on the outside closer together. Longer stitches mean fewer zigzags.
- Zigzag Stitch: This is the part that hops over and catches the main fabric. The width of this stitch is super important. It controls how much of the main fabric edge is caught.
- If the width is too small, the zigzag might miss the fabric fold. The hem won’t be attached properly.
- If the width is too large, the zigzag will go too far into the main fabric. The stitches will be very visible on the outside.
- The length setting also affects how often the zigzag happens. The stitch length sets the distance between the zigzag points.
Experiment on scraps of the same fabric you are using for your project. Try different stitch widths and lengths. Look at the outside of the fabric. See how visible the stitches are. Find the setting that gives you the best balance between a secure hem and nearly invisible stitches. This practice is key to mastering your sewing machine blind hem.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Sometimes, things don’t go perfectly on the first try. Here are some common problems and how to fix them.
- Stitches are too visible on the outside:
- Reason: The zigzag stitch is too wide.
- Fix: Make the stitch width narrower. Make sure the blind hem foot guide is right against the fabric fold line.
- Hem is not attached or is coming loose:
- Reason: The zigzag stitch is not catching the fabric fold at all.
- Fix: Make the stitch width slightly wider. Make sure the blind hem foot guide is right against the fabric fold. You might also need to check your fabric preparation – is the fold pressed sharply?
- Fabric is puckering along the hem:
- Reason: Thread tension might be too tight. Stitch length might be too short for the fabric. Fabric might be getting stretched as you sew.
- Fix: Lower the upper thread tension. Increase the stitch length slightly. Try not to pull or push the fabric as you sew; let the feed dogs move it.
- Stitches look uneven or wobbly:
- Reason: Fabric is not staying aligned with the blind hem foot guide.
- Fix: Go slower. Use pins to hold the hem in place. Use your hands to gently guide the fabric, keeping the fold right against the foot’s guide.
Practice is the best way to avoid these issues. Sew test samples before working on your final project. This blind stitch tutorial works best with a little practice.
Comparing Machine Hemming Techniques
The blind stitch is just one way to hem fabric using a sewing machine. There are other common sewing machine hem types. Knowing them helps you choose the best one for your project.
| Hem Type | Description | Look on Outside | Best For | Ease of Sewing |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blind Hem | Folded twice, uses special stitch and foot. | Nearly invisible picks | Dress clothes, skirts, curtains where stitches should not show. | Medium |
| Straight Stitch Hem | Folded twice, sewn with a straight stitch. | Visible line of stitches | Casual wear, sturdy fabrics, projects where stitches are okay or part of the design. | Easy |
| Rolled Hem | Fabric edge rolled tiny amounts and stitched over. | Very narrow hem | Lightweight, delicate fabrics like scarves, fine blouses. | Harder |
| Zigzag Hem | Edge finished and sewn with zigzag stitch (can be folded or raw). | Visible zigzag stitch | Knit fabrics (stops stretch), finishing edges. | Easy |
| Coverstitch Hem | Requires a coverstitch machine. Looks like two parallel lines on top, serged look underneath. | Two visible lines | Knit garment hems (stretchy and durable). | Requires special machine |
As you can see, the sewing machine blind hem stands out for its invisible finish. It’s a key part of a range of machine hemming techniques.
Advanced Tips for a Stunning Finish
Once you get the hang of the basic blind stitch tutorial, here are some ways to make your results even better.
- Thread Choice: Always use thread that matches your fabric perfectly. Better yet, use thread that is one shade darker than your fabric. Darker thread tends to disappear more than lighter thread. For very fine fabrics, consider using a fine thread like silk or specialized blind hemming thread.
- Needle Choice: Use the right needle for your fabric type. A universal needle works for many fabrics. For very fine or delicate fabrics, use a smaller size needle. For knits, use a ballpoint needle to avoid damaging the fibers. A sharp needle is best for crisp folds on woven fabrics.
- Test Swatches: Never skip testing on scrap fabric! Use a piece of the exact same fabric from your project. Fold and press it just like you will the real hem. Sew on it. Check the settings. Look at both sides. Adjust until it’s perfect. This small step saves big problems.
- Pressing is Your Friend: Pressing the hem folds before sewing is super important. Crisp folds help the blind hem foot guide stay in the right place. Press again when you are finished sewing to set the stitches and make the hem lay flat.
- Use a Hemming Guide Tool: Some people like to use a separate hemming guide ruler or tool. This helps you measure and press the hem allowance evenly all the way around. Consistent folds lead to consistent stitches.
- Handling Curves: Blind hemming curves (like on a skirt hem) is harder than straight edges. You might need to clip the seam allowance slightly on inner curves or ease outer curves before folding and pressing. Go very slowly on curves. The blind hem foot guide needs careful help to follow the curve.
- Consider Fabric Weight: The blind stitch works best on light to medium-weight fabrics. Very heavy fabrics might be too bulky for the foot and the stitch to work well. Very sheer fabrics might show the stitches too much no matter how well you do it.
Interpreting Your Machine’s Blind Stitch
Most sewing machines have a built-in blind stitch. But they can look a little different from one machine to the next. Spend some time with your machine manual. Find the blind stitch setting. Look at the diagram in the manual. Understand what part of the stitch is the straight part and what part is the zigzag.
The adjustable blind hem stitch relies on your ability to change the stitch width and length. Practice changing these settings on scraps. See how the stitch changes. See how the zigzag stitch reaches more or less to the left when you change the width. This understanding helps you control the stitch on your actual project.
Some machines might have two blind stitch options: one for woven fabrics and one for knit fabrics. The knit version often has more zigzag in the straight stitch part to allow for stretch. Choose the one that matches your fabric.
Fathoming Different Blind Hem Presser Feet
While the basic blind hem foot is common, there can be slight variations depending on your machine brand (Brother, Janome, Singer, etc.).
- Adjustable Guide Foot: Some blind hem feet have a guide that you can move left or right with a screw. This allows even more precise control over where the zigzag stitch lands relative to the fabric fold. If your foot has this, learn how to adjust it.
- Standard Blind Hem Foot: This has a fixed guide position. You rely more on careful fabric placement and stitch width adjustments on the machine itself.
- Specialty Feet: For some very challenging fabrics or situations, there might be specialty blind hem feet available for your machine model.
Always check the manual that came with your specific sewing machine and its feet. It will show you how to attach and use the blind hem foot that came with it. Using a blind stitch foot correctly is the most important physical action in this process.
Grasping the Concept of Invisible
The goal of a blind stitch is for it to be nearly invisible, not truly invisible like magic. You will still see tiny thread dots on the right side of the fabric. The key is making these dots as small and as far apart as possible. This is why thread matching, stitch width, and tension are so important.
On some fabrics, like those with a nap (velvet, corduroy) or a busy print, the stitches will naturally blend in more. On solid, smooth fabrics, they might be a little more noticeable. Accept that a perfect blind hem on a machine is about minimizing visibility, not eliminating it entirely. This is the secret to the invisible stitch sewing machine.
Sewing Machine Hem Types: Why Choose?
You might wonder why bother with a blind hem when other methods exist. The different sewing machine hem types offer different looks and serve different purposes.
- A straight stitch hem is strong and fast. Great for jeans, simple skirts, or towels. The visible stitch is part of the look.
- A rolled hem makes a delicate edge. Perfect for sheer scarfs or lightweight ruffles.
- A blind hem offers that clean, retail finish on garments where you want the hem to be seen, but not the stitches holding it up. Think of the hem on a nice pair of dress pants or a lined curtain panel.
Understanding these different machine hemming techniques helps you select the best finish for each sewing project. The blind hem is a professional finish that’s worth learning.
Your Blind Stitch Journey
Learning how to sew blind hem using your sewing machine takes practice. Don’t get frustrated if your first try isn’t perfect. Use scrap fabric. Play with the settings. Get comfortable using a blind stitch foot. Once you master this technique, you’ll add a new level of finish to your handmade items. Your sewing machine blind hem will look amazing, and you’ll know the ‘secrets’ to making it perfect.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I have to use a blind hem foot?
While you can try to make a blind stitch without the special foot, it is much harder. The foot has a guide that is designed specifically to help you align the fabric fold correctly. This alignment is key to getting the zigzag stitch to just catch the edge of the main fabric. Using a blind stitch foot makes the process much easier and gives a better result.
Can I blind stitch knit fabrics?
Yes, you can. Many sewing machines have a blind stitch setting made for knit fabrics. This stitch often includes more zigzag movement in the straight stitch part. This extra movement helps the hem stretch without breaking the threads. You should also use a ballpoint needle when sewing knits. Make sure the hem allowance isn’t folded too many times, as bulk can be a problem with stretchy fabrics.
My machine doesn’t have a specific blind hem stitch. What can I do?
Check your manual again. It might be labeled differently. If your machine truly does not have a dedicated blind hem stitch, you can try to mimic it. Use a narrow zigzag stitch. You will have to carefully fold the fabric and manually guide it so the zigzag stitches sew mostly on the hem allowance but occasionally catch the main fabric edge. This is much harder than using the built-in stitch and foot. It requires a lot of practice and careful control. It’s often better to use a different hem finish if your machine lacks this feature.
What’s the best thread for blind stitching?
Polyester thread is a good choice for most fabrics. It’s strong and has a little stretch. Try to match the thread color as closely as possible to your fabric. For very fine fabrics, you might try cotton-wrapped polyester or silk thread, which can be finer and less visible.
How wide should my hem allowance be for a blind stitch?
A hem allowance of 1.5 to 2 inches is common. This gives you enough fabric to make the double fold easily. A smaller hem allowance (like 1 inch) can work, but it’s trickier to fold and guide accurately.
Why do my stitches still show a lot?
This is usually because the zigzag stitch width is too wide. It is reaching too far into the main fabric. Try making the stitch width narrower on your machine. Also, make sure your fabric is folded correctly and the blind hem foot guide is running right along the edge of the main fabric fold. Using matching thread is also very important for stitch invisibility.