Are you wondering how to sew a blind hem that looks almost invisible, or can you even do a blind hem stitch with a regular sewing machine? Yes, you absolutely can create a neat, nearly invisible blind hem stitch using your sewing machine! Learning how to sew a blind hem using a sewing machine makes finishing garments and home décor projects much faster and gives you a professional finish compared to hand sewing alone. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from setting up your machine to getting that perfect, invisible stitch.
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Grasping the Blind Hem Stitch
What exactly is a blind hem stitch? Think of it as a special stitch that attaches the folded edge of fabric to the main fabric with tiny stitches that are hard to see from the right side. It’s used for hemming skirts, pants, curtains, and other items where you don’t want a visible line of stitching. It gives a clean, finished look.
Why Sew Hems with a Sewing Machine?
You can sew a blind hem by hand, and sometimes that’s the best choice for very delicate fabrics. However, hemming with a sewing machine is much quicker and often creates a more consistent stitch, especially over long lengths. It’s a great skill for anyone who sews clothes or home items. Using your sewing machine for this job saves you a lot of time and effort.
Essential Tools for Blind Stitching
Before you start sewing, make sure you have these things ready:
- Your sewing machine (most modern machines have this stitch).
- The correct sewing machine foot, specifically a blind hem foot. This foot has a special guide.
- Thread that matches your fabric color as closely as possible.
- Your fabric with the hem prepared.
- Pins or clips to hold the hem in place.
- An iron and ironing board.
- Sharp scissors.
Having the right tools makes the job much easier and helps you get a better result. The blind hem foot is especially helpful, but we will talk more about that soon.
Looking Closely at the Blind Hem Foot
Most sewing machines come with a collection of different feet. One very useful foot for this job is the blind hem foot (sometimes called an invisible stitch sewing machine foot). This foot is special because it has a metal or plastic guide blade running down the center. It also has grooves underneath to let the fabric pass smoothly.
- How it helps: The guide blade is the key. It helps you line up the folded edge of your hem perfectly. As you sew, the straight stitches run along the fold in the main fabric, and the little zig-zag stitches just catch the very edge of the fold.
- Using a blind hem foot: The guide keeps your fabric in the right spot so those little zig-zags only grab a tiny bit of fabric, making the stitch almost invisible from the front of your project. Some blind hem feet have an adjustable guide, letting you move it left or right for different fabrics or stitch widths.
If your machine came with a blind hem foot, find it and practice putting it on and taking it off. Knowing how to use this foot well makes the blind hem stitch much more successful.
Preparing Your Fabric for a Blind Hem
Getting the hem ready before you sew is very important. Good prep leads to a good finish.
Figuring Out Your Hem
First, decide how wide you want your finished hem to be. This will tell you how much fabric you need to fold up.
- Common Hem Allowances:
- Garments (skirts, pants): 1 inch to 2 inches (2.5 cm to 5 cm) is common.
- Curtains: Can be wider, 2 inches to 4 inches (5 cm to 10 cm) or more, depending on the fabric weight and length.
Folding and Pressing the Hem
Here are the steps to fold and press your hem:
- First Fold: Fold the raw edge of the fabric up towards the wrong side by about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch (0.6 cm to 1.2 cm). Press this fold firmly with your iron. This hides the raw edge and gives a clean finish.
- Second Fold: Fold the hem up again, this time by the full width of your planned hem. For example, if you want a 2-inch finished hem, fold it up so the first fold is 2 inches from the raw edge. Press this fold firmly. This creates the double fold most commonly used for blind hems.
- Open the Second Fold: Now, open up that second fold you just made. You should see the crease line from where you folded it.
- Fold Back for Stitching: Fold the fabric back on itself, along that second crease line you just made, but only fold it back so the edge with the first fold (the one you pressed up 1/4″ to 1/2″) sticks out just a little bit – about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) or less – from the main fabric. The bulk of the hem allowance is tucked inside this fold. This creates a ‘shelf’ with the folded edge sticking out. This is the fold you will place against the guide on your blind hem foot.
- Pin: Use pins to hold this fold in place. Pin along the hem, keeping the small ‘shelf’ sticking out consistently. Place pins about every 4-6 inches (10-15 cm).
- Visualizing the Fold: Imagine you have the right side of your fabric facing you. Flip it over. Fold the bottom edge up (Fold 1), press. Fold up again (Fold 2) to your hem depth, press. Open Fold 2. Now, fold the fabric down towards the bottom edge along that second crease line, leaving just a tiny bit of the bottom folded edge sticking up past the crease. This small bit is what the needle will catch.
Proper pressing is key here. Crisp folds are much easier to sew along accurately.
Getting Your Sewing Machine Settings Right
Before you start sewing, set up your machine correctly. Sewing machine settings are crucial for a good blind hem.
Choosing the Stitch
Look at the stitch options on your machine. You are looking for the blind hem stitch. It usually looks like a series of straight stitches with a zig-zag stitch every few stitches. The zig-zag part is what catches the main fabric fold.
- Identify the Stitch: On electronic machines, select the blind hem stitch setting. On mechanical machines, turn the dial to the blind hem symbol. There are usually two versions: one for woven fabrics and one for knits (the knit version has more zig-zags close together). Choose the one that fits your fabric.
Stitch Length and Width
These settings control how the stitch looks and how invisible it is.
- Stitch Length: This controls the length of the straight stitches between the zig-zags. A shorter length (like 2.0 to 2.5) means the zig-zags happen more often. This can make the stitch stronger but slightly more visible. A longer length (like 3.0 to 4.0) makes the zig-zags less frequent, making the stitch potentially more invisible but maybe less secure on certain fabrics. Start around 2.5-3.0 and test.
- Stitch Width: This controls how far over the zig-zag stitch swings to the left to catch the main fabric. This is a very important setting!
- If the width is too large, the zig-zag will go too far into the main fabric and be visible from the front.
- If the width is too small, the zig-zag might miss the fold completely, leaving the hem unattached.
- You need to adjust this so the needle just barely catches the folded edge of your hem allowance. This often means setting the width quite low, perhaps between 0.5 and 1.5, but it depends a lot on your machine and fabric thickness. This is where the “adjustable blind hem stitch” idea comes in – you fine-tune the width.
Thread Tension
Thread tension needs to be balanced.
- Too Tight: The thread will pull and might show on the front of the fabric, or the fabric might pucker.
- Too Loose: The stitches will be loopy and weak, especially on the back.
- Just Right: The stitches will look neat and even on both sides.
- Testing Tension: Do a test stitch on a scrap piece of your fabric. Look at the stitches on both the front and back. Adjust the tension dial if needed. The bobbin thread should lie flat on the underside, and the top thread should pull slightly into the fabric.
Needle
Use a needle that is the right size and type for your fabric. A universal needle works for many fabrics, but a sharp needle is best for woven fabrics, and a ballpoint or stretch needle for knits. Use a size appropriate for the fabric weight (e.g., 70/10 or 80/12 for light to medium fabrics).
Setting up your machine takes a few minutes, but it’s worth it for a perfect stitch.
Step-by-Step Guide to Blind Stitching
Now that your fabric is prepped and your machine is set up, you’re ready to sew!
Step 1: Attach the Blind Hem Foot
Make sure your blind hem foot is securely attached to your sewing machine. Lower the presser foot lever to lock it in place.
Step 2: Position Your Fabric
Place your prepared fabric under the presser foot. Remember how you folded the hem allowance back, leaving a small ‘shelf’ sticking out? You want to position the fabric so this ‘shelf’ is lined up against the guide blade of the blind hem foot. The bulk of the hem allowance should be to the right of the guide blade.
- Alignment is Key: The left side of the guide blade should run right along the main fold of your fabric (the one you created when you folded the hem allowance back). The needle, when it swings left for the zig-zag, should just barely catch the edge of the ‘shelf’ to the left of the guide.
Step 3: Start Sewing
Lower the needle into the fabric to start your first stitch. Sew slowly at first.
Step 4: Watch the Guide and Needle
As you sew, keep your eye on the guide blade and the fold in your fabric. Your goal is to keep that fold running consistently along the left edge of the guide.
- Straight Stitches: The straight part of the blind hem stitch will sew along the folded-back hem allowance, just to the right of the guide blade. These stitches will be hidden within the hem.
- Zig-Zag Stitches: Every few stitches, the machine will make a zig-zag stitch to the left. If your fabric is positioned correctly against the guide, this zig-zag stitch will just barely catch the small folded edge of the hem allowance that is sticking out past the main fold.
Step 5: Guide the Fabric
Use your hands to gently guide the fabric, keeping the fold snug against the guide. Do not push or pull the fabric, just guide it. Let the machine feed the fabric through.
Step 6: Sew All Around the Hem
Continue sewing around the entire hem. When you reach where you started, sew a few stitches over your starting stitches to secure them, or backstitch carefully for a few stitches.
Step 7: Finish and Press
Remove the fabric from the machine. Trim any loose threads. Turn the fabric right side out. Now, press the hem again from the right side. The heat helps the stitches settle into the fabric and can make them even less visible.
If done correctly, you should see a neat, even hem line from the right side, with only tiny, infrequent dots where the zig-zag stitches caught the fabric.
Tips for an Invisible Look
Making the blind hem stitch truly invisible takes practice and attention to detail.
- Matching Thread: Use thread that blends perfectly with your fabric color. If you can’t find an exact match, choose a thread that is slightly darker, as darker colors tend to disappear more than lighter ones.
- Needle Size: Use the smallest needle size that works with your thread and fabric without skipping stitches. A smaller needle makes smaller holes.
- Tension: Make sure your tension is balanced. If the top thread is too tight, it will pull through to the front.
- Catching Just a Thread or Two: The goal is for the zig-zag stitch to catch only one or two threads of the main fabric fold. This is why getting the fabric positioned just right against the guide, and setting the stitch width correctly, is so important.
- Pressing: As mentioned, pressing afterwards helps embed the stitches. Press from the right side of the fabric over the hem area.
Getting this right might take a few tries on practice scraps, especially when setting your stitch width and guiding the fabric.
Fine-Tuning Your Adjustable Blind Hem Stitch
Your machine’s adjustable blind hem stitch settings let you control how much fabric the zig-zag catches.
- Test, Test, Test: Always test on a scrap of your exact fabric, folded the same way as your hem.
- Start Narrow: Begin with a narrow stitch width setting (like 0.5 or 1.0).
- Sew a few inches: Stitch a small section on your scrap.
- Check the Front: Look at the right side of the fabric. Do you see stitches?
- Check the Back: Unfold the hem allowance on the back. Do you see the zig-zag stitches clearly caught in the fold?
- Adjust Width:
- If you don’t see stitches on the front and the stitches on the back are catching the fold reliably, your width is good or maybe even a little too wide (try making it slightly narrower for ultimate invisibility).
- If you see stitches on the front, your width is too wide. Make the stitch width smaller.
- If the stitches on the back are missing the fold, your width is too narrow. Make the stitch width wider by small amounts (like 0.1 or 0.2 at a time).
- Adjust Length: If the zig-zags are too frequent and show as a dotted line, make the stitch length longer. If the hem feels loose, make the stitch length shorter.
- Adjust Tension: If the fabric puckers or the stitch looks messy, adjust the tension.
This testing and adjusting process is key to getting the perfect, adjustable blind hem stitch for your specific fabric and machine.
Hemming Different Fabrics
The type of fabric you are hemming will affect how you prepare the hem and your machine settings.
- Lightweight Fabrics (Silks, Voiles): These can be tricky because stitches show easily.
- Use a very fine needle (like 60/8 or 70/10).
- Use fine thread.
- Set stitch width very narrow (test carefully!).
- Consider a roll hem or a double-folded narrow hem instead of a traditional blind hem if invisibility is paramount. If using a blind hem, press very gently.
- Medium Weight Fabrics (Cotton, Linen): These are the easiest for blind hemming.
- Use a universal needle (70/10 or 80/12).
- Standard thread works well.
- Blind hem stitch settings for woven fabrics usually work best.
- Fold and press carefully for crisp edges.
- Heavy Weight Fabrics (Denim, Upholstery): The bulk can be a challenge.
- May need a thicker needle (90/14 or 100/16).
- You might need to trim the first fold narrow (1/4 inch) or even just serge/finish the raw edge and fold up only once for less bulk before folding back for the blind stitch.
- Use a slightly longer stitch length if the machine struggles to feed.
- Check tension carefully, as bulky seams can affect it.
- Knit Fabrics: These stretch, so the stitch needs to be stretchy too.
- Use a ballpoint or stretch needle.
- Use the blind hem stitch pattern designed for knits (it often has more zig-zags close together or a slight stretch built-in).
- Use a slightly longer stitch length than for wovens to reduce puckering.
- Do not stretch the fabric as you sew.
- Press gently with steam; avoid pressing down hard.
Always test your settings on a fabric scrap before sewing your actual project hem, especially when working with a new fabric type.
Troubleshooting Blind Stitch Issues
Even with careful preparation, you might run into problems. Here’s how to fix common blind stitch issues (troubleshooting blind stitch).
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Stitches visible on front | Stitch width too wide | Reduce stitch width slightly. |
| Fabric not positioned correctly | Ensure main fold is snug against blind hem foot guide; small ‘shelf’ is small. | |
| Thread color doesn’t match well | Use thread that blends better. | |
| Tension too tight | Loosen upper tension slightly. | |
| Stitches missing the fold | Stitch width too narrow | Increase stitch width slightly. |
| Fabric not positioned correctly | Ensure small ‘shelf’ is sticking out enough to be caught by the needle swing. | |
| Fold not consistent | Press hem folds very carefully and evenly. | |
| Fabric puckering/wavy hem | Thread tension too tight | Loosen upper or lower tension. |
| Stitch length too short (especially on knits) | Increase stitch length. | |
| Stretching fabric while sewing | Guide fabric gently, don’t pull. | |
| Fabric too delicate/difficult | Consider a different hem method or use a stabilizer. | |
| Skipped Stitches | Wrong needle type or size for fabric | Use a new, correct needle (ballpoint/stretch for knits, sharp for fine wovens, larger for heavy fabric). |
| Needle bent or dull | Change the needle. | |
| Machine not threaded correctly | Rewheel and rethread the machine, ensuring presser foot is up when threading. | |
| Bobbin issues | Check bobbin winding, placement, and case. | |
| Thread breaking | Tension too high | Loosen tension. |
| Needle bent, dull, or wrong size | Change to a correct, sharp needle. | |
| Poor quality thread | Use good quality thread. |
Don’t get frustrated if your first blind stitch isn’t perfect. It takes practice to get the feel of guiding the fabric and setting the stitch width just right for each project.
Practice Makes Perfect
Like any sewing technique, mastering the machine blind hem stitch takes practice. Start with some scrap fabric. Try different settings, thread colors, and fabric types. See how changing the stitch width or length affects the look. Once you feel comfortable on scraps, move on to a real project. You’ll find that with each hem you sew, your results will get better and better.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Here are answers to common questions about the machine blind stitch:
Q: Can I sew a blind hem without a blind hem foot?
A: You can, but it’s much harder to get good results. You would need to select the blind hem stitch and carefully try to align the fabric fold by eye under a regular presser foot. The guide on the blind hem foot is specifically designed to help you position the fabric precisely, which is key to making the stitch nearly invisible. It’s highly recommended to use the correct foot if you want consistent, professional-looking blind hems.
Q: What are the ideal sewing machine settings for a blind hem stitch?
A: Ideal settings vary by machine and fabric, but a good starting point is:
* Stitch Type: Blind Hem Stitch (woven or knit version)
* Stitch Length: 2.5 – 3.5
* Stitch Width: 0.5 – 1.5 (Adjust this based on testing until the zig-zag just catches the fold)
* Tension: Usually standard (around 4-5), but test and adjust for balance.
Always test on a scrap of your fabric to find the best settings for your specific project.
Q: Why does my blind stitch show on the front of the fabric?
A: The most common reasons are:
1. The stitch width is too wide, causing the zig-zag to swing too far into the main fabric. Make the stitch width narrower.
2. The fabric wasn’t positioned correctly against the blind hem foot guide, letting the needle catch too much fabric. Realign the fabric so the fold is snug against the guide and only a tiny bit of the ‘shelf’ is exposed to the left.
3. The thread color doesn’t match the fabric well. Use a better matching thread.
4. Tension is too tight, pulling the thread through. Loosen the upper tension slightly.
Q: My hem is wavy after sewing the blind stitch. What am I doing wrong?
A: A wavy hem is often caused by stretching the fabric while sewing (especially knits or bias cuts), or by having the thread tension too tight which pulls the fabric. Try guiding the fabric gently without pulling, use a longer stitch length (especially on knits), and check/adjust your tension. Pressing the hem well before and after sewing can also help.
Q: How do I sew a blind hem on corners?
A: Corners can be tricky. For an inside corner, clip the excess fabric away from the point before folding. For an outside corner, miter the corner before folding the hem. Fold and press the corner first, then continue folding and pressing the straight edges. When sewing, sew up to the corner, pivot carefully, and continue sewing along the next edge, keeping the fabric aligned with the guide. Go slowly over the bulk of the corner.
Learning how to use the blind stitch on your sewing machine opens up a world of professional-looking finishes for your sewing projects. With the right preparation, settings, and a little practice, you’ll be creating beautiful, nearly invisible hems in no time!