Beginner Friendly: How To Do A Stem Stitch In Embroidery

What is stem stitch? Stem stitch is a simple stitch used in hand embroidery. It is great for making lines, like the stems of flowers or the outlines of shapes. Is stem stitch easy for beginners? Yes, it is one of the basic embroidery stitches and is quite easy to learn. It is often used as an outline stitch because it makes a nice smooth line, especially good for creating curves.

Meet the Stem Stitch

Stem stitch is a popular stitch in hand embroidery. People use it to make lines and borders. It is one of the first embroidery stitches many people learn. It is called stem stitch because it looks like little ropes twisted together. This makes it perfect for making plant stems. It’s also known as an outline stitch because it follows lines well. When you learn this stitch, you open up many possibilities in your embroidery projects. It works on many types of fabric. It uses simple movements with your embroidery needle and embroidery floss.

What You Need

To start doing stem stitch, you need a few simple things. These are tools for hand embroidery. You likely have most of them if you have done any sewing before.

Fabric: You need fabric to stitch on. Cotton or linen is good for beginners. These fabrics are easy to see the holes in. They are not too stretchy.
Embroidery Floss: This is the thread you use. It comes in many colors. It is made of six strands twisted together. You can use all six strands or just a few. Using fewer strands makes a thinner line. Using more makes a thicker line. For stem stitch, starting with three or four strands is often good.
Embroidery Needle: You need a special needle for embroidery. These needles have bigger eyes (holes) to fit the thicker embroidery floss. They also have sharp points to go through the fabric easily. Get a pack with different sizes. A size 7 or 9 needle works well for three or four strands of floss.
Embroidery Hoop: An embroidery hoop holds your fabric tight. This makes it much easier to stitch. It keeps your fabric from puckering (wrinkling). A hoop is usually made of wood or plastic. It has two rings. You put the fabric between the rings and tighten a screw. A 6-inch hoop is a good size to start with.

Getting Ready to Stitch

Before you make your first stem stitch, you need to get set up. This means getting your fabric ready and threading your needle.

Put Fabric in Hoop: Take your embroidery hoop apart. The inner ring has no screw. Place your fabric over this ring. Make sure the spot you want to stitch is in the middle. Put the outer ring over the fabric and the inner ring. Push the outer ring down until it sits over the inner ring and fabric. Pull the fabric gently all around to make it tight like a drum. Tighten the screw on the outer ring. Check that the fabric is very tight. This is important for neat stitches.
Choose and Cut Floss: Pick the color of embroidery floss you want. Pull a length of floss. About 18 to 24 inches is good. If the piece is too long, it can get tangled. Cut the floss.
Separate Strands (Optional): Embroidery floss has six strands. You might want to use fewer. To do this, hold the cut piece of floss. Gently pull one or two strands away from the others. They will separate. Be patient. This can take a moment. Once you have the number of strands you want, put the others aside.
Thread the Needle: Take the strands you want to use. Make the end flat and straight. Wetting the end a tiny bit can help. Push the end of the floss through the eye of your embroidery needle. Pull it through so you have a tail of a few inches. Do not tie a knot at the end of the floss yet.

Starting Your Thread

You need to start your thread so it stays in the fabric. There are a few ways to do this. A simple way is to use a small knot on the back. Or, you can hide the end under stitches. For beginners, a small knot is easiest.

Make a Knot: Take the long end of the floss. Make a small knot at the very end. You can loop the floss around your finger, twist it, and pull the end through the loop. Pull it tight to make a small knot.
Bring Needle Up: Decide where you want your stitch line to start. From the back of the fabric, push your embroidery needle up through the fabric at your starting point. Pull the floss through until the knot on the back stops it. The knot should rest against the back of the fabric.

Now you are ready to make your first stem stitch!

Making the Stem Stitch: Step-by-Step

Let’s make the actual stitch. We will go slowly, step by step. Remember, this is a basic embroidery stitch.

Step 1: First Stitch Part

Look at where you want your line to go. If you drew a line on your fabric, this is your guide.
Bring your needle up from the back at your start point (Point A). You did this already when starting your thread.
Move the needle along your line a short distance. Let’s say you want your first stitch to be about a quarter inch long.
Push your needle down into the fabric at the end of this short distance (Point B). Do not pull the floss all the way through yet. Leave a loop of floss on the top of the fabric. This loop will be important.

Step 2: Bring Needle Up Again

Now, bring your needle up from the back again.
Where should it come up? It should come up between Point A (where you started) and Point B (where you went down).
It should come up very close to Point A, but along the line you are making. Let’s call this Point C. Point C is between A and B. It is usually about halfway between A and B, or a little closer to A.
Make sure your needle comes up inside the loop of floss you left in Step 1. This is key! The loop should be under your needle.

Step 3: Pull Floss

Now, pull your embroidery floss through carefully.
As you pull, the loop you left in Step 1 will tighten up.
The floss should form a small, slanted stitch from Point A to Point B.
The point where you came up (Point C) will be covered by this stitch.
The new loop you are creating will rest under your needle at Point C.
Pull gently so the stitch lies flat on the fabric. Don’t pull too hard, or it will pucker the fabric.

Step 4: Make the Next Stitch

Point C is now the new starting point for your next stitch.
Move your needle forward along your line the same short distance as before. This is like moving from Point A to Point B in the first stitch.
Push your needle down into the fabric at this new point (Point D). This point should be the same distance from Point C as B was from A.
Again, do not pull the floss all the way through. Leave a loop on the top of the fabric.

Step 5: Come Up Inside the Loop (Again)

Bring your needle up from the back again.
Where? Halfway between Point C (where the last stitch started) and Point D (where you just went down). This new point will be the start of the next stitch. Let’s call this Point E.
Make sure your needle comes up inside the loop of floss you left in Step 4. The loop should be under your needle.

Step 6: Pull Floss and Repeat

Pull your embroidery floss through carefully.
The loop will tighten, forming a slanted stitch from Point C to Point D.
Point E, where you came up, will be covered by this new stitch.
The loop for the next stitch will be around your needle at Point E.
Point E is now the start of your next stitch.
Keep repeating Steps 4, 5, and 6.
You make a stitch, then come up halfway back inside the loop for the next stitch.

Each stitch links into the one before it. This creates the slightly twisted, rope-like look of the stem stitch. The point where you come up each time (like C or E) is the beginning of the next stitch.

More About the Process

Let’s talk a bit more about how the stitch works and what it looks like.

The Look: On the front of your fabric, you will see a line of short, slanted stitches. They overlap a little. The point where the needle comes up each time tucks under the previous stitch. This makes one edge of the line smooth and the other edge slightly bumpy or twisted. For a standard stem stitch, the loop should always be on the same side of the line. Most people keep the loop to the left of the working line as they stitch. If you keep the loop to the right, it is sometimes called outline stitch or raised stem stitch. The method is the same, just the side of the loop changes. Since stem stitch is often used as an outline stitch, the names are sometimes used for the same thing.
The Back: On the back of your fabric, you will see short, straight stitches that overlap. They should follow the line you are stitching.

Important Things to Remember

Here are some tips to help you make neat and pretty stem stitches.

Keep Stitches Even: Try to make each stitch the same length. This makes your line look smooth and regular. If some stitches are long and some are short, the line will look uneven.
Stitch Length Matters: The length of your stitches changes how the line looks.
- Short stitches: Use short stitches for tight curves or detailed lines. Short stitches give you more control. They make the line bend smoothly. This is great for creating curves like flower petals or letters.
- Long stitches: You can use longer stitches for straight lines or gentle curves. Longer stitches work up faster. But they can make tight curves look angular.
- A good starting stitch length is about 1/4 inch (0.5 cm).
Keep the Loop on One Side: Always make sure the loop of floss is on the same side of your working line. If you switch sides, your line will look messy. Most people find it easiest to keep the loop on the left.
Don’t Pull Too Tight: Pull the floss just enough so the stitch lies flat on the fabric. If you pull too hard, you will pucker (wrinkle) the fabric. The line will look tense. If you leave it too loose, the stitches will be baggy. Practice will help you find the right tension.
Follow Your Line: Try to keep your stitches right on the line you drew. Coming up in the middle of the previous stitch helps you stay on track.

Creating Curves with Stem Stitch

Stem stitch is excellent for creating curves. This is why it is a popular outline stitch. To make a nice curve:

Use Shorter Stitches: As mentioned, shorter stitches are key for curves. For a sharp curve, make your stitches very short. For a gentle curve, you can use slightly longer stitches.
Come Up Near the Previous Stitch: When you come up from the back (Point C, E, etc.), make sure you come up very close to where the previous stitch started. This helps the stitches pivot smoothly around the curve. If you come up halfway along the previous stitch, it helps maintain the curve’s shape.
Follow the Curve’s Path: Imagine each little stitch is hugging the curve. The needle goes down on the line, and comes up on the line, just behind where the previous stitch started.
Keep the Loop on the Outside: When making a curve, keeping the loop on the outside edge of the curve often gives the smoothest line on the inside edge. If you were drawing a curved flower stem, you might want the loop on the outside edge of the curve to keep the inside edge (the side facing the flower head) very smooth.

Practice making circles or wavy lines to get the hang of creating curves.

Finishing Your Thread

When you finish stitching a line, or when your embroidery floss is almost gone, you need to end the thread neatly on the back.

Go to the Back: Push your needle to the back of the fabric after finishing your last stitch.
Weave Under Stitches: On the back, find some of the stitches you just made. Slide your needle under these stitches. Go under three or four stitches.
Make a Small Knot (Optional but good): You can make a tiny knot close to the fabric after weaving under the stitches. This adds extra security. To do this, make a small loop with the thread right next to the fabric. Pass the needle through the loop. Pull gently to make a small knot.
Weave Again: Weave under a few more stitches to hide the end.
Cut Floss: Cut the remaining floss close to the fabric. Be careful not to cut the stitches themselves.

Your thread is now secured, and you can start a new piece of floss.

Where to Use Stem Stitch

Stem stitch is very useful in hand embroidery. You will see it in many projects.

Outlines: As its name suggests (and its use as an outline stitch), it is perfect for outlining shapes. Use it around flowers, leaves, letters, or any shape you want to stand out.
Stems: Yes, for flower stems! It looks just like a real twisted stem.
Lines: Any lines in your design can be made with stem stitch – paths, wavy lines, straight lines.
Filling Shapes: You can fill small shapes with stem stitch. Just stitch lines very close together inside the shape.
Lettering: It is great for stitching letters and numbers, especially in script fonts, because it handles curves so well.

It is a versatile stitch, meaning you can use it for many different things. It creates a different texture than stitches like back stitch.

Stem Stitch vs. Back Stitch

Let’s look at how stem stitch is different from another basic embroidery stitch: back stitch. Both are often used for lines.

Feature	Stem Stitch	Back Stitch
Look	Rope-like, slightly twisted line. Good for curves.	Solid, dashed line. Good for straight lines.
How it’s Made	Stitch forward, come up back inside the loop.	Stitch back, meet the end of the last stitch.
Needle Path	Needle comes up through the previous stitch.	Needle goes down where the previous stitch ends.
Best For	Outlines, stems, curves, script lettering.	Outlines, straight lines, filling shapes.
Feel	Smooth on one side, slightly raised on the other.	Flat and even.

Both are important basic embroidery stitches. Knowing both gives you more choices for your designs. Stem stitch is better when you need a smooth, flowing curve. Back stitch is stronger and more defined for straight lines or sharper angles.

Fixing Mistakes (Oopsies!)

Sometimes you make a mistake. Maybe a stitch is too long, or you went off the line. Don’t worry! Fixing mistakes is part of learning hand embroidery.

Un-stitch: The easiest way to fix a mistake is to carefully un-stitch the last few stitches. Use your needle to gently lift the loops. Pull the floss back through the fabric. Go back to the stitch before the mistake happened.
Use Small Scissors: For bigger mistakes, you can use small, sharp embroidery scissors or snips. Cut the problem stitches on the back of the fabric. Be very careful not to cut the fabric itself. Then pull the cut pieces of floss out from the front.

It is okay to undo stitches. Everyone does it, even people who have been stitching for a long time.

Practice Makes Your Stitches Better

Learning any new skill takes practice. This is true for embroidery stitches too.

Draw Lines: Draw different kinds of lines on your fabric. Draw straight lines, wavy lines, circles, squares, hearts. Practice stitching over them with stem stitch. See how the stitch looks on different shapes.
Change Stitch Length: Try making a line with very short stitches. Then try a line with longer stitches. See and feel the difference. This helps you learn what stitch length works best for different parts of your design.
Use Different Floss: Try using different numbers of embroidery floss strands. Stitch the same line with 2 strands, then 4 strands, then 6 strands. See how the thickness changes. This helps you choose the right look for your project.
Don’t Aim for Perfect First: Your first few lines of stem stitch might not be perfect. That is okay! They might be uneven, or the tension might be off. Just keep practicing. Each line you stitch will get better. Your hands will learn the movement. Your eyes will learn to see the right place to put the needle.

Think of practicing like drawing lines with a pen. The first lines you draw might be shaky. But the more you draw, the steadier your hand becomes. Embroidery is the same.

Getting Creative with Stem Stitch

Once you are comfortable making a basic stem stitch line, you can start playing.

Change the Side of the Loop: Try making the line with the loop always on the right side. See how the line looks different. It’s like a mirror image! This is sometimes called outline stitch or raised stem stitch, but the motion is the same. It creates a slightly different texture on the line.
Make Thicker Lines: You can stitch two or three rows of stem stitch right next to each other. This makes a wider, thicker line or border.
Fill Shapes: As mentioned before, you can fill small areas by stitching rows of stem stitch close together. Change the direction of the rows to create different textures.
Combine with Other Stitches: Use stem stitch for the outline of a shape, then use other basic embroidery stitches like satin stitch or French knots to fill it in or add details. For example, stitch a flower stem with stem stitch, then add lazy daisy stitches for petals and French knots for the center.

The possibilities are endless once you have this basic embroidery stitch down.

A Quick Look at Stem Stitch Variations

While the basic stem stitch is what we’ve covered, there are a few related stitches that use a similar idea:

Outline Stitch: Sometimes used as another name for stem stitch when the loop is kept consistently on one side.
Whipped Stem Stitch: You make a line of regular stem stitch first. Then, using a new piece of floss (often a different color), you weave the needle under the stitches of the stem stitch line without going through the fabric. This “whips” the floss around the stem stitch, creating a thick, corded look.
Padded Stem Stitch: You can make a few rows of plain stem stitch very close together, then stitch another row of stem stitch over the top of those rows. This lifts the final stitch line off the fabric, making it raised and padded.

These variations build on the basic skill you are learning. Once you can do the standard stem stitch, these are easy to try.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with simple stitches, you might run into small problems. Here’s what to do.

Floss Gets Twisted: Embroidery floss can twist as you stitch. This makes it harder to pull through. Let your needle hang freely sometimes. This lets the floss untwist itself. Or, stop stitching and untwist the floss with your fingers.
Puckered Fabric: This happens when you pull your stitches too tight. Make sure your embroidery hoop is tight. Then, when you pull each stitch, pull just enough so it lies flat, but not so hard that the fabric wrinkles around the stitch.
Uneven Stitches: Practice is the best fix for this. Also, make sure you are always going down the same distance forward and coming up halfway back (or at the same point relative to the previous stitch). Drawing clear lines on your fabric helps a lot at first.
Loop Gets Lost: If you forget to keep the loop of floss under your needle when you come up, the stitch will not form correctly. You will likely end up with a simple straight stitch or a messy loop. Just carefully un-stitch the last stitch and try again, remembering to keep that loop under the needle.

These little issues are normal when learning. Don’t get frustrated! Just fix them and keep going.

Final Thoughts on Your Stem Stitch Journey

You are now ready to try the stem stitch! You know what you need, how to start, the steps to make the stitch, and how to finish. You also know why stitch length is important, especially for creating curves, and how stem stitch is different from other basic embroidery stitches like back stitch.

This stitch is a cornerstone of hand embroidery. Mastering it will give you confidence to try more complex patterns and stitches. Remember to keep your embroidery hoop tight, choose your embroidery floss and needle wisely, and practice the steps. Keep your stitches even and don’t pull too tight. Most importantly, have fun! Embroidery should be a relaxing and rewarding hobby. Your ability to use this outline stitch for beautiful lines and curves will grow with each project.

Frequently Asked Questions About Stem Stitch

h4 What is the best fabric for stem stitch?

Cotton or linen fabric is great for learning stem stitch. They are stable and easy to work with. Evenweave fabrics also work well because the holes help guide your needle.

h4 Can I use stem stitch for thick lines?

Yes, you can make thick lines by stitching two or more rows of stem stitch close together. You can also use all six strands of embroidery floss for a thicker line.

h4 How do I make stem stitch look smooth?

Keep your stitch length consistent. Make sure you always bring the needle up inside the loop on the same side. Pull the floss gently, not too tight. Using shorter stitches helps, especially on curves.

h4 Is stem stitch the same as outline stitch?

Often, yes. Stem stitch is a type of outline stitch because it is used to make outlines. If you consistently keep the working thread loop on one side (usually the left), it’s commonly called stem stitch. If you keep the loop on the other side (usually the right), it might be specifically called outline stitch or raised stem stitch, but the method is basically the same.

h4 How do I stitch curves neatly with stem stitch?

Use shorter stitch length. When bringing the needle up, make sure it comes up close to where the previous stitch started, right on the line of the curve. Keep the loop on the outside of the curve for the smoothest inner edge.

h4 What size needle and floss should I use?

For general stem stitch with 3 or 4 strands of standard embroidery floss, a size 7 or 9 embroidery needle is usually good. If you use more strands, you’ll need a needle with a bigger eye, like a size 5. If you use fewer strands, a smaller needle like size 9 or 10 is better.

h4 Can I use stem stitch for filling?

Yes, for small areas, you can fill by stitching rows of stem stitch very close together.

h4 My fabric is puckering. Why?

This usually means you are pulling the embroidery floss too tight. Make sure your fabric is tight in the embroidery hoop. Then, practice pulling each stitch only until it lies flat, not hard enough to gather the fabric.

h4 How do I end my thread with stem stitch?

Push the needle to the back. Slide the needle under a few stitches you just made. You can add a small knot close to the fabric for extra security. Weave under a few more stitches. Then cut the extra floss.

h4 How long should each stitch be?

The stitch length depends on your design. For tight curves, use 1/8 to 1/4 inch (0.3-0.6 cm) stitches. For straighter lines, you can go up to 1/2 inch (1.2 cm). Shorter stitches give more control and a smoother look, especially for creating curves.