Ending your sewing machine stitches correctly is very important. It keeps your hard work from falling apart. People often ask, “How do you stop sewing stitches from coming undone?” or “What is the best way to end a seam on a sewing machine?” The simple answer is you need to lock the stitches in place. The most common ways to do this are using backstitching, a lock stitch feature on your machine, or tying the thread ends by hand. Without a good end to your stitch, your seam can easily unravel, especially under stress. This guide will show you different ways to make sure your secure stitching lasts.
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Grasping Why Stitches Unravel
Think of a simple hand stitch. If you don’t tie a knot at the end, the thread can just pull right out. Sewing machine stitches are a bit different. They form a lock using two threads, one from the needle and one from the bobbin. Each stitch loops around the next one. If you stop sewing and just cut the threads, the last few loops aren’t held in place by anything. Any little pull on the fabric can cause these last stitches to loosen and then unravel, like pulling a loose thread on a sweater.
This is why you must finish seam ends properly. A weak stitch end means your beautiful project might come apart easily when you wear it, wash it, or just handle it. Reinforce stitches at the start and end to stop this.
Key Methods for Making Stitches Secure
There are a few main ways to end your sewing machine stitches so they don’t unravel. Each method works by making the last few stitches extra strong or tying them off so they can’t pull loose.
- Backstitching: Sewing a few stitches backward over your original line of stitches.
- Lock Stitch: Making many tiny stitches in the same spot. Some machines have a special button for this.
- Tieing Off Threads: Using the thread tails left after sewing to make a knot by hand.
Let’s look at each method in more detail.
Deciphering Backstitching (Reverse Sewing)
Backstitching, also known as reverse sewing, is one of the most common ways to secure the start and end of a seam. It’s like doubling up on your stitches right where they finish.
How Backstitching Works
When you sew forward, the machine makes stitches going away from you. To backstitch, you simply tell the machine to sew backward. Most machines have a lever or a button for this. You hold it down, and the machine reverses direction.
Here is the simple process:
- Sew your seam almost to the end.
- Stop sewing when you are about 1/2 inch (or 1 cm) from the end of the fabric.
- Press and hold your machine’s reverse button or lever.
- Sew backward for about 1/2 inch, right over the stitches you just made.
- Stop holding the reverse button.
- Sew forward again for about 1/2 inch, going over the backstitches you just made. This brings you right to the fabric edge again, or slightly beyond if you like.
- Lift your needle and presser foot.
- Pull the fabric away from the machine.
- Cutting excess thread: Cut the thread tails close to the fabric.
When to Use Backstitching
Backstitching is great for seams that will face stress or need to be very strong.
- Starting a seam: Always backstitch at the beginning of a seam. This locks the first stitches in place.
- Ending a seam: Use it at the end of almost any seam, like side seams on clothes, pillow seams, or bags.
- Areas of stress: Use extra backstitching in areas that will be pulled or stretched, like the top of a pocket or the corner of a bag handle.
Pros and Cons of Backstitching
Pros:
- Very effective at stopping seams from unraveling.
- Easy to do on most sewing machines.
- Quick way to reinforce stitches.
Cons:
- Can look messy on the right side of the fabric if not done neatly or if using thick thread.
- Adds bulk to the seam end, which might not be good for very fine fabrics or areas needing a flat finish.
- Can cause threads to bunch up if your thread tension is off.
Tips for Neat Backstitching
- Keep your backstitching short, about 1/2 inch is usually enough. Too many stitches in one spot can create a thick tangle.
- Try to sew directly over your original stitches. This takes practice.
- For visible seams, you might choose a different method like a lock stitch or tieing off by hand for a cleaner look.
Deciphering the Lock Stitch Method
Some sewing machines have a special feature called a lock stitch button or setting. This method is different from backstitching. Instead of sewing backward and forward, the machine makes several stitches in the exact same spot.
How the Machine Lock Stitch Works
When you press the lock stitch button (sometimes called a “knot” or “tie-off” stitch), the machine changes its action. It will make 3 to 5 very tiny stitches right where the needle is. These tiny stitches are stacked on top of each other, creating a strong little knot of thread that locks the seam end.
Here is the simple process using a lock stitch button:
- Sew your seam to the very end of your fabric.
- Stop sewing with the needle still in the fabric (this is often best, but check your machine’s manual).
- Press the lock stitch button on your machine. Keep your foot off the pedal or keep your hands guiding the fabric gently if needed – the machine does the work.
- The machine will make a few stitches in place.
- Once it stops, you have a locked stitch end.
- Lift your needle and presser foot.
- Pull the fabric away.
- Cutting excess thread: Cut the thread tails close.
Creating a Manual Lock Stitch
What if your machine doesn’t have a lock stitch button? You can create a similar effect manually.
- Sew your seam to the end.
- Stop sewing.
- Shorten your stitch length a lot. Make it almost zero (but not quite). Check your machine manual for how to change stitch length.
- Sew 3 to 5 stitches very slowly while keeping your fabric in the same spot. Do not push or pull the fabric. The short stitch length makes the needle go up and down mostly in the same place.
- Return your stitch length to normal.
- Sew forward one or two regular stitches just to help bring the thread to the top/bottom correctly before cutting excess thread.
- Lift needle and presser foot.
- Pull fabric away.
- Cut thread tails.
When to Use the Lock Stitch
The lock stitch method is great when you want a secure end without the bulk of backstitching.
- Delicate fabrics: On sheer or lightweight fabrics where backstitching would look messy or pull the fabric.
- Visible seams: For topstitching or other seams that will be seen from the outside, a lock stitch is less noticeable than backstitching.
- Starting points: Can also be used at the start of a seam instead of backstitching.
Pros and Cons of the Lock Stitch
Pros:
- Provides a clean, less visible way to secure stitching.
- Less bulk than backstitching.
- Very effective at locking the thread end.
Cons:
- Not all machines have a dedicated lock stitch button.
- Doing it manually requires changing stitch length settings, which takes a moment.
- On some fabrics, too many stitches in one spot can still cause bunching or damage.
- May not be as strong as backstitching for heavily stressed seams.
Interpreting Tieing Off Thread Ends Manually
Even if you backstitch or use a lock stitch, sometimes you might want extra security or a super clean finish. This is where tie off thread by hand comes in. This method is often used in couture sewing or when machine methods are not ideal.
How to Tie Off Threads by Hand
This method involves using the thread tails left on your fabric after you finish sewing.
- Finish sewing your seam using your chosen method (or even if you didn’t backstitch/lock stitch yet, though it’s less secure without it).
- Leave thread tails about 4 to 6 inches long when you cut the threads from the machine. Don’t cut them close to the fabric yet.
- Separate the top thread from the bobbin thread on one side of the fabric.
- Thread one of the thread tails onto a hand sewing needle.
- Pass the needle under a few stitches on the back side of the fabric, very close to where the machine stitching ends. Pull the thread through.
- Take the other thread tail (that was not threaded) and make a simple knot with the first thread tail, right against the fabric surface. A double knot is best for security.
- For extra security, thread the second tail onto the needle and pass it under the same few stitches, or different nearby stitches, on the back.
- Make another knot with the remaining thread tails.
- Carefully cutting excess thread: Trim the thread tails close to the fabric now.
When to Tie Off Threads
- When no machine method was used: If you forgot to backstitch or use a lock stitch, or if your machine doesn’t do it well.
- Very delicate fabrics: On fine fabrics where machine reinforcement methods might damage the material.
- Visible seams on fine garments: For a perfect finish where you don’t want any visible backstitching or machine bulk.
- Decorative stitches: Ending decorative stitches can be tricky; tying off by hand gives a clean finish.
- Machine problems: If your machine is having trouble locking stitches at the end.
Pros and Cons of Tieing Off Threads Manually
Pros:
- Gives the cleanest finish, especially on the right side of the fabric.
- Adds no machine bulk to the seam end.
- Very effective way to knot thread ends and secure stitching.
Cons:
- Takes extra time compared to machine methods.
- Requires basic hand sewing skills.
- You need enough thread tail left to work with.
Other Simple Ways to Finish Seam Ends
Besides the main methods, here are a couple of other ideas:
- Sewing off the edge: Sometimes, if you are sewing a seam that will be joined to another seam later (like a shoulder seam), you can just sew right off the edge of the fabric for the last few stitches. The next seam will catch and secure these stitches.
- Leaving long tails for weaving in: Similar to tying off, you can leave long thread tails and use a needle to weave them back into the existing seam stitches on the back of the fabric. This is less bulky than knotting but requires more thread.
Factors That Help Your Stitch Stay Put
The way your stitches look and how secure they are depends on more than just how you end the seam. Several things about your machine and your sewing setup play a role.
Thread Tension
Thread tension is how tightly the top thread and the bobbin thread are pulled as they form a stitch.
- Balanced Tension: When tension is just right, the top and bottom threads meet neatly in the middle of the fabric layers. The stitches look the same on both sides. This balanced stitch is strong and less likely to unravel easily from anywhere, not just the end.
- Too Tight Tension: If one thread is too tight, it pulls the other thread through the fabric. This can make stitches look weak and prone to breaking or pulling out.
- Too Loose Tension: If tension is too loose, the threads form loose loops on one side of the fabric. These stitches are very easy to pull out, making your secure ending less effective.
Always check your tension on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing your project!
Thread Type
The kind of thread you use matters.
- Polyester thread: Strong, a little stretchy, and common for most sewing. It holds knots and stitches well.
- Cotton thread: Can be strong but has no stretch. It can be good for natural fabrics but may break under stress more easily than polyester.
- Silk thread: Strong and fine, good for delicate fabrics, but can be slippery, which might make knots harder to secure.
- Specialty threads: Metallic or thicker threads might need different tension settings and care when ending stitches.
Use good quality thread. Cheap thread can break or shred easily, making it hard to form secure stitching.
Fabric Type
The fabric you are sewing on affects how stitches behave.
- Stable fabrics: Cotton, linen, denim are easy to sew and hold stitches well. Backstitching works great.
- Stretchy fabrics: Knits and spandex need stitches that can stretch. A small zigzag stitch is often used. Ending these stitches securely might need backstitching with a stretch stitch setting or using a method that doesn’t add too much bulk that stops the stretch.
- Delicate fabrics: Silk, satin, sheer fabrics can be pulled or marked by backstitching. A lock stitch or manual tie-off is often better for a clean finish.
- Thick fabrics: Layers of denim or canvas can make it hard for the machine to backstitch neatly. Go slowly.
Needle Size and Type
Using the right needle for your fabric is important. A dull or wrong-sized needle can skip stitches or damage the fabric, leading to weak stitches that are more likely to unravel from the end.
Stitch Length
Using a very long stitch length makes it easier for stitches to pull out. A standard stitch length (around 2.5 mm) for seams works well with secure stitch endings. Very short stitch lengths can add bulk and sometimes damage delicate fabrics.
Step-by-Step: Ending Stitches in Common Cases
Let’s walk through ending stitches for different sewing tasks.
Ending a Straight Seam
This is the most common task. You are sewing two pieces of fabric together in a straight line.
- Sew along your seam line.
- When you are about 1/2 inch from the end of the fabric, slow down.
- Reverse sewing: Engage the backstitch function (lever or button).
- Sew backward for 1/2 inch, right over your line.
- Sew forward again for 1/2 inch, going over your backstitches and ending at the fabric edge.
- Lift the presser foot and needle.
- Pull fabric away, pulling threads to the side or back.
- Cutting excess thread: Cut threads close to the fabric, leaving small tails.
Ending a Decorative Stitch
Decorative stitches often look bad if you backstitch over them.
- Sew your decorative stitch pattern along your fabric.
- When you are near the end, try to stop at a point where the pattern looks complete.
- If your machine has a lock stitch button, use it now. Press the button and let the machine make the securing stitches in place.
- If no lock stitch button, try shortening your stitch length almost to zero and make 3-5 stitches very slowly in place (manual lock stitch). Then return stitch length to normal and sew one or two regular stitches.
- Alternatively, leave long thread tails (4-6 inches).
- Lift foot and needle, pull fabric away.
- Cutting excess thread: If you used a lock stitch, cut threads close.
- If you left long tails, use a hand needle to knot thread ends on the back of the fabric, tucking the tails into the seam line.
Ending a Stitch on a Curve
Ending stitches on curves, like on necklines or armholes, is similar to straight seams. The main difference is handling the fabric shape.
- Sew along your curve.
- When you are about 1/2 inch from the end, slow down.
- Engage backstitching.
- Sew backward for 1/2 inch. Keep guiding the fabric gently around the curve in reverse.
- Sew forward again for 1/2 inch. Guide the fabric forward along the curve.
- Lift foot and needle, pull fabric away.
- Cutting excess thread: Cut threads close.
- For very tight curves or delicate fabrics, a lock stitch or manual tie-off might be less bulky than backstitching.
Avoiding Simple Errors
Making mistakes when ending stitches can lead to unraveling later. Watch out for these common issues:
- Not enough backstitching: Sewing only 1 or 2 reverse stitches is often not enough to truly secure stitching. Aim for 1/2 inch.
- Too much backstitching: Sewing back and forth many times creates a big, stiff tangle of thread. This looks messy and can damage fabric. Short and sweet is best.
- Cutting threads too short initially: If you plan to tie off by hand, make sure you leave enough thread (4-6 inches) when you cut from the machine.
- Cutting threads too close after securing: After backstitching or using a lock stitch, don’t cut the thread tails flush against the fabric. Leave a tiny bit, maybe 1/4 inch. Cutting too close can sometimes snip the locked stitches by accident.
- Poor thread tension: As mentioned before, if your stitches aren’t formed properly because of tension issues, they won’t hold well no matter how you end them. Check your tension!
- Not reinforcing at all: Just sewing to the end and cutting is the quickest way to a seam that unravels. Always add some form of reinforce stitches at the start and end.
Comparing Ways to Secure Stitches
Here is a quick look at the different methods:
| Method | When to Use It | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Backstitching | Most seams, areas needing strength | Very effective, easy on most machines | Can be bulky, looks messy on right side |
| Lock Stitch | Visible seams, delicate fabrics, machine has button | Clean finish, less bulk | Not on all machines, manual can be fiddly |
| Tie Off Thread (Manual) | Delicate fabrics, visible seams, no machine method | Super clean finish, no machine bulk | Takes time, needs thread tails & needle |
| Sewing Off Edge | Seams that will be crossed by another seam later | Simple, no extra steps at the end here | Only works in specific situations |
This table can help you pick the best way to finish seam ends for your project.
Keeping Your Machine Happy
A well-working sewing machine makes it easier to create secure stitching.
- Clean your machine: Lint and thread bits can build up, affecting tension and stitch quality. Clean under the needle plate and around the bobbin case often.
- Oil your machine: Follow your manual’s guide for oiling. A smooth-running machine makes more consistent stitches.
- Change your needle: A bent or dull needle causes skipped stitches and thread breaks. Change it after every project or about every 8-10 hours of sewing time.
- Use the right presser foot: Some feet help guide the fabric better, which can improve your stitch quality, especially at ends.
Practice Makes Better Stitch Ends
The best way to get good at ending your stitches neatly is to practice. Grab some scrap fabric and try the different methods. See how backstitching looks on different fabrics. Try the manual lock stitch. Practice leaving thread tails and tying them off. The more you practice, the easier and neater your stitch endings will become. This will help you reinforce stitches smoothly every time.
In Conclusion: Securing Your Stitch Work
Knowing how to properly end your sewing machine stitches is a basic but vital skill. It ensures your hard work stays together and doesn’t unravel over time. Whether you choose to use backstitching, a machine lock stitch, or tie off thread by hand, the goal is the same: to secure stitching right at the end of the seam.
Remember to consider your fabric, the seam’s purpose, and what your machine can do. Always check your thread tension. Take care when cutting excess thread after securing. By using one of these methods reliably, you can be confident that your finish seam ends are strong and your sewing projects will last.
Frequently Asked Questions About Stitch Endings
H4 Can I just tie a knot at the end of my seam instead of backstitching?
Just tying a knot with the machine threads right at the fabric edge is usually not enough. Machine stitches are loops that need to be locked by going back on themselves or by making stitches in the same spot. A simple knot with the two loose tails from the machine can often just pull through the fabric or come undone easily. Tying off by hand with a needle (threading the tails through stitches on the back before knotting) is much more secure than just knotting the loose ends hanging off the edge.
H4 How much backstitching do I really need?
You typically need about 1/2 inch (about 1 to 1.5 cm) of backstitching at the start and end of a seam. This is enough stitches going back and then forward again to overlap and lock the threads firmly. Doing less might not secure it properly. Doing much more creates unnecessary bulk and a mess of threads.
H4 What if my sewing machine doesn’t have a lock stitch button?
Many basic machines don’t have a lock stitch button. That’s okay! You can use the manual lock stitch method by shortening your stitch length to almost zero for a few stitches at the end. Or, you can reliably use backstitching, which is available on almost all sewing machines. For a very clean finish, the manual tie off thread method is also a great option.
H4 Is backstitching always the best way to end a seam?
No, backstitching is not always the best way. While it’s very strong for basic seams on stable fabrics, it can add too much bulk or look messy on delicate fabrics, visible topstitching, or areas where you need a very flat finish. In those cases, a machine lock stitch (if you have the feature) or manually tying off the threads might be better for a cleaner look with less bulk while still providing secure stitching.
H4 My stitches are bunching up when I try to backstitch. What’s wrong?
Bunching during backstitching often means your thread tension is off, or there is lint build-up under the needle plate or in the bobbin case. Check your tension by sewing a few test lines on scrap fabric. Clean your machine regularly. Sometimes slowing down when you backstitch can also help control the fabric and prevent bunching.
H4 Do I need to reinforce stitches on every seam?
Yes, it is a good practice to reinforce stitches at the start and end of almost every seam using one of the securing methods (backstitch, lock stitch, or tie-off). Seams are most likely to unravel from the beginning or the end. Skipping this step means your project is at risk of coming apart.
H4 How close should I cut the threads after securing them?
After you have secured your stitches with backstitching or a lock stitch, cut the thread tails leaving about 1/4 inch (about 0.5 cm). Don’t cut them right against the fabric surface. Leaving a small tail helps ensure you don’t accidentally snip the loop that is locking your stitches. If you are tieing off by hand, you will cut the tails much closer after the knot is secure.