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How To Enlarge A Sewing Pattern: Easy Methods for Perfect Fit
Yes, you absolutely can enlarge a sewing pattern! Making clothes that fit perfectly is a wonderful goal for any sewer. Sometimes, the size range on a pattern does not include your needed size, or maybe you need to make one part of the pattern bigger than another for a better fit across your unique shape. Learning how to make a sewing pattern larger is a key skill. This guide will show you simple ways to make your pattern pieces bigger so you can sew clothes that fit just right. We will look at different pattern enlargement methods that make it easy to get the size you need.
Why Make a Sewing Pattern Bigger?
People enlarge sewing patterns for many reasons. The main one is fit. Patterns come in standard sizes, but bodies do not.
You might need to make a pattern bigger because:
* Your measurements are larger than the biggest size on the pattern.
* You need more room in just one area, like the bust, waist, or hips.
* You are adapting a pattern meant for a child to fit a small adult, or a standard adult pattern to fit a plus size.
* You want a looser, more relaxed fit than the pattern gives.
Knowing pattern alteration techniques lets you change the pattern to match your body. It gives you control over how your finished clothes will fit and feel.
Basic Ideas: Grading and Resizing
Think of how clothes stores have small, medium, large sizes. Pattern companies do this too. The process they use to create a range of sizes from one basic pattern is called grading sewing patterns. They add or remove a certain amount from the edges of each pattern piece to make it bigger or smaller.
What we are doing when we enlarge a pattern at home is a form of resizing pattern pieces. We are taking one size and changing its size to fit our needs. This might be adding uniform size everywhere or adding size only where needed. This is part of drafting pattern adjustments to fit your personal measurements.
Tools You Need
Gathering the right tools makes the job easier. You will need a few simple things:
- Your original sewing pattern.
- Large sheets of paper. Pattern paper, tracing paper, or even butcher paper works well. You will use this for tracing pattern pieces and drawing your new, larger pattern.
- Fabric weights or pins to hold patterns still.
- Measuring tape.
- Clear ruler or a pattern-making ruler with grid lines.
- Pencils and an eraser.
- Paper scissors.
- Clear tape (like Scotch tape) or pattern-drafting tape.
- Optional: A large grid mat or ruler.
Getting Ready: Measure and Trace
Before you make the pattern bigger, you need to know how much bigger it needs to be.
Getting Accurate Sewing Pattern Measurements
Measure yourself carefully. Have a friend help if possible.
Write down your measurements:
* Bust: Around the fullest part of your chest.
* Waist: Around the narrowest part of your waist.
* Hips: Around the fullest part of your hips.
* Back waist length: From the bone at the back of your neck down to your waist.
* Sleeve length: From your shoulder bone down to where you want the sleeve to end.
* Inseam: From your crotch down to where you want the pant hem to be.
Compare these to the body measurements chart on your pattern envelope. Find the size that is closest to your measurements. You will work from this size. If your measurements fall between sizes, you will need to adjust. If one measurement is much larger than the size you chose, you will need to add more size specifically in that area.
Tracing Pattern Pieces
Never cut your original pattern! It is best to trace the size you are starting with onto new paper. This keeps the original pattern safe if you need it again.
Put your tracing paper over the pattern piece.
Use your fabric weights to hold it down.
Trace the lines for your chosen size carefully.
Mark all important points:
* Grainline (a long line with arrows)
* Notches (small lines on edges)
* Dots or squares
* Pattern piece name (like “Front Bodice”)
* Pattern size
* Number of pieces to cut
This traced copy is what you will change.
Method 1: The Slash and Spread Way
This is a very common and useful way to enlarge a sewing pattern. It is simple and works for many types of pattern pieces. It is all about cutting the pattern piece and spreading it apart to add size. This is excellent for adding pattern size evenly or just in specific spots.
How it Works
You draw lines on your pattern piece where you want to add size. You cut along these lines, but not all the way through. You leave a small hinge point so the piece stays connected. Then, you spread the cut sections apart the amount you need to add. You fill the gap with paper. This method helps with resizing pattern pieces while keeping the shape right.
Steps for Slash and Spread
Let’s do a simple example, like adding width to a bodice front.
h4 Step 1: Draw Lines for Cutting
Lay your traced bodice front piece flat.
Decide where you need more room. For overall width or bust room, draw lines vertically from the hem or waist up towards the shoulder or armhole. You might draw one line up the center front or several lines across the piece.
For length, draw horizontal lines across the pattern piece.
Draw a line straight up from the waist towards the armhole, maybe parallel to the grainline. You might draw another line from the side seam towards the first line.
Mark points on the edge where you want to cut to. Do not cut into the seam allowance. Stop your cut lines just before the edge, leaving a small paper hinge.
h4 Step 2: Cut Along the Lines
Use sharp paper scissors.
Cut carefully along the lines you drew.
Stop cutting just before the edge of the pattern piece. Leave about 1/8 inch (3mm) uncut. This small bit of paper is your hinge. It keeps the pieces connected and makes spreading easier to control.
h4 Step 3: Spread the Pieces Apart
Lay your cut pattern piece on a new large sheet of paper.
Gently spread the cut sections apart. Spread them the exact amount you need to add. For example, if you need to add 2 inches of width total to the front bodice, and you cut two lines, you would spread each cut by 1 inch (because the front is cut on the fold or you have two front pieces, splitting the needed increase). Always remember you are adding to half or a quarter of the garment, depending on the pattern piece.
Use a ruler to measure the gap you are creating accurately. Make sure the gap is even along the cut line.
h4 Step 4: Tape the Gap
Once the pieces are spread the right amount, tape them in place onto the new paper.
Put tape over the cut lines to hold the pieces steady.
Tape down the edges of your pattern piece onto the new paper.
h4 Step 5: Fill the Gap
Now you have gaps between your pattern pieces, taped onto the new paper.
Cut strips of your large paper that fit into these gaps.
Tape these paper strips into the gaps you created by spreading. This fills in the space and makes your pattern piece solid again, but bigger.
h4 Step 6: Smooth the Edges
The edges of your pattern piece might look a little jagged or uneven where you added the paper.
Use a ruler or a curved ruler to draw new smooth lines along the outer edges (like the side seam, hem, neckline, or armhole). These new lines should connect the original points smoothly, going around the added width or length.
Blend any darts or other pattern markings that were cut and spread. You may need to redraw them.
Applying Slash and Spread to Different Pieces
- Bodice: To add width at the bust or waist, cut vertical lines. To add length, cut horizontal lines across the waist or chest. To add fullness for a full bust, you can make a specific cut from the side seam towards the bust point and down to the waist.
- Sleeves: To add width, cut vertical lines from the hem up to the cap, spread. To add length, cut horizontal lines across the sleeve.
- Skirts/Pants: To add width at the waist or hips, cut vertical lines. To add length, cut horizontal lines across the thigh or calf. For pants, you might add width specifically at the crotch curve.
This method is a key part of pattern alteration techniques. It helps you add specific amounts exactly where you need them, making resizing pattern pieces quite flexible.
Method 2: The Grid Method
The grid method pattern enlargement is another way to scale sewing patterns. It is good for making a pattern uniformly larger, or for changing size while keeping the proportions quite similar. It can feel more technical than slash and spread but gives good control, especially for drafting pattern adjustments over the whole piece.
How it Works
You draw a grid of squares over your original traced pattern piece. You then draw a larger grid of squares on a new piece of paper. You transfer the points where the pattern lines cross the grid lines from the small grid to the large grid. When you connect the dots on the large grid, you get a bigger version of your pattern piece.
Steps for the Grid Method
h4 Step 1: Draw a Grid on Your Original Pattern
Take your traced pattern piece.
Use a ruler to draw a grid of squares over the entire piece.
You can use squares like 1 inch by 1 inch or 2cm by 2cm. The size of the squares depends on how big you want to enlarge the pattern.
The smaller the squares, the more points you will have, and the more accurate your enlargement will be.
Make sure your grid lines are parallel and perpendicular to the grainline of the pattern piece. Number or letter the rows and columns of your grid (like A1, A2, B1, B2, etc.).
h4 Step 2: Draw a Larger Grid on New Paper
Decide how much bigger you want your pattern. For example, you might want to make it 10% larger, or 20% larger. This means you need to scale the grid.
If you used 1-inch squares on the original and want to make the pattern 10% larger, your new squares will be 1.1 inches by 1.1 inches. If you want to double the size (200%), your new squares will be 2 inches by 2 inches.
On your large new sheet of paper, draw a grid using these larger squares. Make sure the new grid has the same number of rows and columns as your original grid.
Label the rows and columns the same way (A1, A2, etc.).
h4 Step 3: Transfer Points from the Small Grid to the Large Grid
Now, look at your original pattern piece with the small grid.
See where the pattern lines (the edge of the pattern piece, darts, notches, etc.) cross or touch the grid lines.
For example, the shoulder line might cross the line between A2 and A3 halfway up the square. Find that same square (A2/A3) on your large grid paper. Mark a point halfway up the corresponding line.
Go along all the pattern lines and mark every point where they cross the grid lines onto your large grid. Mark notches, dots, and the end points of darts too.
h4 Step 4: Connect the Points
Once you have marked all the points on your large grid, connect them carefully.
Draw lines between the points just as they were on the original pattern.
Use smooth curves for armholes, necklines, and other curved areas.
Draw in darts, notches, grainline, and any other important markings.
h4 Step 5: Check Your New Pattern Piece
Your new pattern piece is now drawn on the large grid. Cut it out.
Measure important parts of your new pattern piece. Check the bust width, waist width, hip width (remembering these are only half or a quarter of the full garment). Compare these new sewing pattern measurements to your body measurements to see if the enlargement worked as you planned.
This grid method pattern enlargement is great for keeping the shape and look of the original pattern while changing its size. It is a precise way of scaling sewing patterns.
Comparing Methods
Both slash and spread and the grid method are effective pattern enlargement methods.
| Feature | Slash and Spread | Grid Method |
|---|---|---|
| Ease of Use | Relatively easy to grasp | Requires careful drawing and measuring |
| Flexibility | Good for adding size unevenly | Better for uniform scaling |
| Precision | Can be slightly less precise | Very precise if grid is accurate |
| Time | Can be quicker for simple changes | Can take longer, especially with small grids |
| Best For | Adding size to specific areas (FBA, waist) | Uniform enlargement, keeping shape |
| Paper Needed | Requires paper strips to fill gaps | Requires large sheet for the new grid |
Both methods are valuable pattern alteration techniques. Choosing which one depends on what kind of size adjustment you need to make.
Adding Size to Specific Areas
Often, you do not need to make the whole pattern uniformly bigger. You might need more room only at the bust, waist, or hips. This is where pattern alteration techniques become very useful. You use the slash and spread method but target your cuts to the specific area needing more room. This is a key skill in drafting pattern adjustments for a custom fit.
Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)
A common adjustment is the FBA. This adds needed room at the bust without adding width to the shoulder or waist. It uses a specific set of cuts and spreads on the bodice front pattern piece. You pivot the paper to add the wedge of needed fabric just at the bust point. This is a specific application of resizing pattern pieces by adding pattern size only where needed.
Adjusting Waist or Hip Width
To add width at the waist or hips, you can use slash and spread lines that run vertically from the hem or waist up towards the hip or bust. You spread these lines only at the waist or hip area, tapering back to the original size above or below that point.
Checking Your New Pattern and Fit
After you have finished enlarging your pattern using either method, take the time to check your work.
h4 Step 1: Measure Again
Use your measuring tape to check the key measurements on your newly enlarged pattern piece.
Measure the width across the bust line, waist line, and hip line. Remember to account for seam allowances and darts. Compare these numbers to your body measurements plus any ease you want (the extra room for movement).
Check lengths too, like bodice length or sleeve length.
h4 Step 2: Make a Test Garment (Muslin)
The best way to check the fit of your enlarged pattern is to sew a test garment. This is often called making a muslin, even if you use cheap fabric.
Cut out your newly enlarged pattern pieces from inexpensive fabric.
Sew the garment together using a long stitch length. Do not worry about finishing seams.
Try on the muslin. See how it fits. Is it comfortable? Is it too big or too small anywhere? Are the proportions right?
h4 Step 3: Make Further Adjustments
Based on how the muslin fits, you might need to make more changes to your paper pattern. This is normal! Sewing pattern measurements on paper are a starting point; the real test is on your body.
You might need to take in a seam, let out a seam, change a dart, or adjust the length. Mark these changes on your muslin while you are wearing it.
Transfer these changes back to your paper pattern. You might need to use slash and spread again on the paper pattern to make small tweaks. This refining process is part of mastering pattern alteration techniques.
Tips for Success
- Work on a Large Surface: Make sure you have plenty of space to lay out your paper and pattern pieces.
- Be Patient: Enlarging a pattern takes time and care. Do not rush.
- Use Clear Tape: Clear tape is best for taping paper pieces together because you can see lines through it.
- Mark Everything: Always transfer all pattern markings (darts, notches, grainline) to your new, larger pattern piece.
- Keep Your Original: As mentioned, trace your pattern so you always have the original size.
- Measure Twice, Cut Once: This old saying is true for patterns too. Double-check your measurements and how much you need to add before cutting your traced pattern.
- Understand Ease: Remember that patterns include ease. When comparing pattern measurements to your body measurements, account for this extra room. Look at the finished garment measurements on the pattern envelope if available, as these include ease.
- Start Simple: If you are new to pattern changes, start with an easy pattern (like a simple skirt or top) before trying to enlarge a complex jacket or dress.
Learning how to enlarge a sewing pattern opens up many possibilities. It means you are not limited by the sizes printed on the envelope. You can make clothes that fit your body shape perfectly, giving you confidence and comfort in your handmade wardrobe. Whether you use slash and spread or the grid method pattern enlargement, taking the time to make your pattern bigger is a rewarding step in your sewing journey. It transforms a standard pattern into a custom fit just for you. These pattern enlargement methods are fundamental pattern alteration techniques that will serve you well as you continue sewing and drafting pattern adjustments to create your perfect garments. Resizing pattern pieces is a skill worth learning. It makes sure your sewing pattern measurements lead to a garment you love to wear. Tracing pattern pieces is always the safe first step. Adding pattern size is the goal, and these methods help you achieve it accurately.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
h5 Can I just add to the side seams to make a pattern bigger?
You can add a little to side seams for small adjustments, but it is often not the best way to make a pattern much larger. Adding only to the sides can change the shape of the armhole, neckline, and darts in ways that make the garment fit poorly. Slash and spread or the grid method spread the enlargement across the pattern piece, helping to keep the original shape and fit intended by the designer.
h5 How do I know exactly how much size to add?
Compare your body measurements to the pattern’s body measurement chart. Find the difference. If you need 2 inches more around the bust than the size you are starting with, you will need to add a total of 2 inches to the bust circumference of the pattern pieces. If the pattern piece is half of the front (cut on fold), you add 1 inch to that piece. If it is a quarter (two front pieces), you add 0.5 inches to each front piece. For pattern pieces cut on the fold, like a back bodice, you add the full amount needed for that half. Remember that ease is already included in the pattern’s design.
h5 What is ‘ease’ and why does it matter when enlarging patterns?
Ease is the extra room a pattern includes beyond your body measurements. It allows you to move, sit, and breathe in the garment. Design ease is included for style (like an oversized look). Wearing ease is needed for movement. When you enlarge a pattern, you are adding to the finished size of the garment. Make sure your final pattern measurements include enough ease for comfort and the intended style. Look for finished garment measurements on the pattern envelope if they are provided.
h5 Can I use these methods to make a pattern smaller too?
Yes, you can! The slash and spread method becomes ‘slash and overlap’. You cut the lines but instead of spreading, you overlap the pieces by the amount you need to remove. The grid method works in reverse by drawing a smaller grid on your new paper and transferring points from the original grid. These are also part of pattern alteration techniques and grading sewing patterns.
h5 Is it hard to enlarge patterns with many pieces?
Patterns with many pieces, like jackets or complex dresses, mean more pieces to enlarge. The principles are the same for each piece. Just take your time and work piece by piece. Keep track of which pieces you have enlarged and by how much. Good organization is key for more complex patterns.
h5 Do I need to enlarge facings or linings too?
Yes! Any pattern piece that is part of the outer garment’s structure, like facings, linings, waistbands, or collars, needs to be enlarged by the same amount as the main pattern pieces they attach to. If you enlarge the bodice front, you must also enlarge the front facing and lining pieces by the same amount in the same places. This ensures all pieces fit together correctly.