How To Hem A Shirt With A Sewing Machine: Easy Steps

Yes, you can easily hem a shirt with a sewing machine. It’s a straightforward sewing task that lets you make your clothes fit perfectly or fix a damaged hem. This guide shows you simple steps to get a neat and strong sewing machine hem on any shirt.

Hemming a shirt changes its length. It makes the bottom edge look finished. Using a sewing machine makes the hem strong and professional. You can hem woven shirts like button-downs or knit shirts like t-shirts. The steps are mostly the same, but some details change based on the fabric type.

Getting Ready to Hem Your Shirt

Good preparation makes hemming easy. You need a few tools and materials.

What You Need

Gather these things before you start.

The shirt you want to hem
A sewing machine
Thread that matches your shirt color
Fabric scissors
Measuring tape or ruler
Fabric chalk or marker
Straight pins
An iron and ironing board
A seam ripper (if taking out an old hem)

Checking the Old Hem

If the shirt has an old hem, you might need to remove it.

Look at the old hem. Is it broken or uneven?
Use a seam ripper to carefully take out the old stitches.
Be gentle to avoid making holes in the fabric.
Pull the threads out.
Press the area flat with an iron. This removes the old fold line.

Deciphering the New Length

Deciding how long the shirt should be is the first big step. Try the shirt on.

Trying On the Shirt

Wear the shirt and stand naturally.

Look in a mirror.
Decide how much shorter you want it.
Have a friend help you mark the new length.
Use pins or chalk to mark the spot where the new hem should be above the finished edge. This mark is your target finished length line.

Measuring the Hem Allowance

The shirt hem allowance is the extra fabric you fold up to make the hem.

This is the fabric below your marked finished length line.
A common hem allowance for shirts is 1/2 inch to 1 inch (1.25 cm to 2.5 cm).
For woven fabrics, a wider hem (1 inch) is often used.
For knit fabrics (like t-shirt hem with sewing machine), a narrower hem (1/2 inch or 3/4 inch) works well. This is because knit fabric is stretchy.
Measure from your marked finished length line downwards.
Mark this cutting line all the way around the shirt.
Make sure the distance from the marked finished line is the same everywhere.

Let’s say you want a 1-inch finished hem allowance. You mark the finished length line. Then, measure 1 inch down from that line. This second line is where you will cut.

Cutting the Fabric

Carefully cut the extra fabric off along the marked cutting line.

Use sharp fabric scissors.
Cut smoothly.
Cut all the way around the bottom of the shirt.
Now you have the right amount of fabric for your hem.

Folding and Pressing the Hem

This step is very important for a neat hem. Folding and pressing hem creates sharp folds that are easy to sew.

First Fold

You will fold the fabric up towards the inside of the shirt.

The first fold is usually smaller.
Fold the raw edge up by a small amount.
This amount depends on your total hem allowance.
If your total allowance is 1 inch, fold up about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) first.
Press this fold with a hot iron.
The heat helps set the fold line.
Work your way around the entire hem edge.

Second Fold

The second fold hides the raw edge inside the hem.

Fold the hem up again.
Fold it along your marked finished length line.
The first fold (with the raw edge) is now hidden inside this second fold.
The width of this second fold will be the final width of your hem (e.g., 1 inch or 1/2 inch).
Use your measuring tape to check that the fold is the same width all around.
Press this second fold well with the iron.
Use pins to hold the fold in place, especially on curved areas or stretchy fabrics. Place pins perpendicular to the hem edge so you can sew over them if needed, or easily pull them out as you sew.

Table: Common Hem Allowances

Fabric Type	Common Hem Allowance	First Fold (approx)	Second Fold (approx)	Notes
Woven Fabric	1 inch (2.5 cm)	1/4 inch (0.6 cm)	3/4 inch (1.9 cm)	Gives a solid hem
Knit Fabric	1/2 inch (1.25 cm)	1/4 inch (0.6 cm)	1/4 inch (0.6 cm)	Less bulky, good for stretch
Knit Fabric	3/4 inch (1.9 cm)	1/4 inch (0.6 cm)	1/2 inch (1.25 cm)	Also good for stretch

Note: Adjust fold amounts so the total folded height matches your desired hem allowance.

Finishing the Hem Edge

For woven fabrics, the raw edge inside the hem can fray. You need to finishing hem edge. For knit fabrics, you want to prevent the edge from rolling or stretching.

Finishing Woven Edges

If you skipped the first small fold, you can finish the raw edge before the final fold.

Serger/Overlocker: Use a serger to sew a neat edge stitch along the raw edge. Then fold up once by the full hem allowance and sew.
Zigzag Stitch: On your sewing machine, use a zigzag stitch along the raw edge. Keep the stitches narrow. Then fold up once by the full hem allowance and sew.
Pinked Edge: Cut the raw edge with pinking shears. This makes little points that fray less. Then fold up once by the full hem allowance and sew.

The double-fold method (folding twice) is the most common and easiest way to finish a woven edge. It hides the raw edge completely.

Finishing Knit Edges

Knit fabrics don’t fray, but they can roll or stretch out of shape. The double fold helps this.

A simple double fold (like 1/4 inch then 1/4 inch for a 1/2 inch hem) works well for hemming knit fabric.
You can also use a serger to finish the edge first, then fold and sew. This adds extra strength.
A stretchy stitch on your sewing machine is key for knits.

Sewing the Hem

Now it’s time to sew the hem on your sewing machine. Choose the right stitch.

Choosing the Right Stitch

The stitch you use depends on the fabric and the look you want.

Straight Stitch: Good for woven fabrics. Use a medium stitch length (2.5-3 mm).
Zigzag Stitch: Good for knit fabrics because it stretches. Use a narrow width and medium length.
Stretch Stitch: Many machines have stitches designed for knits. Look for symbols that look like a lightning bolt or a triple straight stitch.
Double Needle: Creates two parallel lines of stitches on the outside. The bobbin thread makes a zigzag underneath, which stretches. Perfect for t-shirt hem with sewing machine.

Setting Up Your Sewing Machine

Get your machine ready.

Put the right thread in the top and the bobbin.
Choose the correct needle for your fabric (e.g., a ballpoint or stretch needle for knits, a universal needle for wovens).
Select your stitch.
Adjust the stitch length and width if needed.
Check your thread tension for hemming. The stitches should look the same on the top and bottom. They should not be too tight (pulling the fabric) or too loose (looping). Sew a test seam on a scrap piece of your shirt fabric. Adjust tension until it looks good.

Table: Stitch Choices for Hemming

Fabric Type	Recommended Stitches	Notes
Woven	Straight Stitch, Blind Hem Stitch	Non-stretchy, clean look
Knit	Zigzag Stitch, Stretch Stitch, Double Needle	Stretches with the fabric, prevents popped stitches
Both	Blind Hem Stitch (machine)	Less visible from the outside

Sewing a Straight Hem

Most shirt hems are straight or slightly curved.

Start sewing near a side seam.
Place the shirt under the presser foot. The folded edge should be under the needle.
The stitch line should be close to the inner folded edge, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the fold.
Sew slowly and steadily.
Guide the fabric gently. Don’t pull or push it hard.
Keep the distance from the folded edge even all the way around. This ensures a straight stitch line on the outside.
When you get back to where you started, overlap the stitches by about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).
Sew a few backstitches to secure the end.
Lift the needle and presser foot.
Pull the shirt out and cut the threads.

Sewing a Curved Hem

A curved hem sewing technique needs a bit more care. Many shirts, especially button-downs, have curved hems.

Folding: Curved areas are harder to fold smoothly. Make small folds as you go. Press well. You might need more pins. The shirt hem allowance needs to be worked into the curve. On a tight curve, you might need a slightly smaller allowance or make tiny cuts into the raw edge (clipping) before folding the first time, if you are using a serged or zigzagged edge finish method. With a double fold, just take your time and press really well.
Sewing: Sew slowly around the curve.
Pivot the fabric slightly as you sew to follow the curve.
Keep your eye on the distance from the folded edge.
Use a slightly shorter stitch length if the curve is tight. This helps the stitch look smooth.

Using a Double Needle

The double needle hemming shirt method gives a professional look often seen on ready-to-wear knit shirts.

You need a double needle for your machine. They come in different widths.
You also need an extra spool pin or holder for the second spool of thread.
Thread your machine with two threads through the top. They go through the same tension disc but each goes through a separate needle hole.
The bobbin thread stays the same.
Insert the double needle.
Select a straight stitch (or a special double needle stitch if your machine has one). Set the stitch length appropriate for your fabric.
The two top threads will sew parallel lines. The bobbin thread will zigzag between them on the underside. This zigzag is what allows the hem to stretch.
Sew the hem as usual, keeping the folded edge lined up.
The outside of the shirt will have two neat lines of stitching.
The inside will have the zigzag bobbin thread.

Important: Check your machine manual for using a double needle. Make sure your machine can use one. Also, check the maximum stitch width you can use with the double needle so the needles don’t hit the presser foot or needle plate.

Working with Different Fabrics

Hemming knit fabric and hemming woven fabric have slight differences.

Hemming Woven Fabric

Woven fabrics don’t stretch much.
The main concern is preventing fraying.
Use a straight stitch or blind hem stitch.
A double fold is the most common way to hide the raw edge and prevent fraying.
Pressing is very important to get crisp folds.

Hemming Knit Fabric

Knit fabrics stretch.
The hem needs to stretch too, or the stitches will break.
Use a stitch that stretches: zigzag, stretch stitch, or double needle.
Use a ballpoint or stretch needle. This needle type pushes the fabric fibers aside instead of piercing them, which prevents holes and skipped stitches.
Do not pull the fabric while sewing. Let the machine feed it. Pulling will stretch the hem out of shape.
A walking foot can help feed knit fabric evenly, preventing stretching.
The t-shirt hem with sewing machine is a perfect example of hemming knit fabric.

Achieving a Clean Finish

After sewing, the hem looks almost done.

Pressing the Finished Hem

Pressing is the final step to make your hem look professional.

Press the finished hem from the right side of the fabric.
Use an iron setting suitable for your fabric type.
Press carefully to flatten the stitches and the folded fabric underneath.
This blends the hem into the shirt and gives it a crisp look.

Trimming Threads

Trim any loose threads neatly.

Cut threads close to the fabric but be careful not to snip the stitches.

Fathoming Common Hem Issues

Sometimes things don’t go perfectly. Here are some common problems and fixes.

Wavy Hem on Knits

This happens when the fabric is stretched while sewing.

Solution: Don’t pull the fabric. Use a walking foot. Use a stretch stitch or double needle. Check your thread tension for hemming – sometimes tension that is too high can stretch the fabric.

Skipped Stitches on Knits

Often caused by using the wrong needle or stitch, or thread tension issues.

Solution: Use a new ballpoint or stretch needle. Check if your stitch is suitable for knits. Adjust thread tension for hemming.

Puckered Hem on Wovens

This can happen if the stitch tension is too tight or the stitch length is too short for the fabric.

Solution: Loosen the thread tension for hemming. Increase the stitch length slightly. Make sure you aren’t holding the fabric too tightly while sewing. Pressing well before and after sewing also helps.

Uneven Hem Width

This happens if you don’t fold or sew the hem the same width all around.

Solution: Measure carefully when marking and folding. Use a sewing gauge or ruler to check the fold width before pressing and pinning. Use the edge of the presser foot or markings on the needle plate as a guide while sewing to keep your stitch line straight and parallel to the fold.

Advanced Hemming Techniques (Optional)

Once you are comfortable with basic hemming, you might try other methods.

Blind Hem with a Machine

Most sewing machines have a blind hem stitch setting.

This stitch is designed to be mostly invisible from the outside.
You fold the hem differently for this stitch.
The machine takes a few straight stitches in the folded hem allowance, then one wide zigzag stitch that just catches a tiny bit of the main shirt fabric fold.
It takes practice to get the fold and the zigzag placement right.
Check your machine manual for specific instructions on how to set up for a machine blind hem stitch and how to fold the fabric.
This stitch is often used on dress shirts or trousers. It can be used for sewing machine hem on woven shirts.

Lettuce Edge Hem (for Knits)

This is a decorative hem for very stretchy knit fabrics.

It makes a wavy edge.
You use a zigzag or overlock stitch.
You stretch the fabric as you sew.
The fabric curls up along the stitch line, creating the wave.
Best for lightweight, stretchy knits.

Interpreting the Importance of Thread Tension

Thread tension for hemming is critical for a good stitch.

Too Tight: The top thread pulls the bobbin thread to the top. Stitches look like a straight line on the bottom. Can cause puckering, especially on woven fabrics. Can break threads or needles. On knits, can stop the fabric from stretching.
Too Loose (Top Thread): The top thread loops on the bottom of the fabric. Looks messy. Stitches are weak.
Too Loose (Bobbin Thread): The bobbin thread loops on the top of the fabric. Looks messy. Stitches are weak.
Just Right: The top and bobbin threads meet in the middle of the fabric layers. Stitches look the same on the top and bottom. They are smooth and flat against the fabric.

Always test your tension on a scrap of the same fabric before sewing the real hem. Adjust the tension dial on your machine until the stitches look balanced.

Mastering Different Hem Styles

While this guide focuses on a standard folded hem, shirts can have different styles.

Standard Folded Hem

This is the most common style we’ve discussed.

Fabric is folded up once or twice.
Stitched down with a straight, zigzag, or double needle.
Good for most fabrics.

Rolled Hem

A very narrow, fine hem.

Often used on lightweight fabrics like silk or chiffon.
The fabric edge is rolled up very tightly, usually twice, and stitched close to the roll.
Some machines have a special presser foot (a rolled hem foot) to help make this hem.
This gives a delicate finish.

Faced Hem

Used when the hem is very shaped (like a strong curve) or you don’t want bulk.

A separate piece of fabric (the facing) is cut to match the shape of the hem edge.
The facing is sewn to the raw edge of the shirt, then turned to the inside.
It is stitched down flat on the inside.
This method doesn’t reduce the shirt length by folding up the shirt fabric itself.

For most casual or standard shirt hemming, the folded hem with a sewing machine hem is the way to go.

Comprehending Stitch Location

Where you stitch the hem matters for its appearance and strength.

Standard Location: Sew about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the inner folded edge. This secures the folded layers and is visible on the outside. This is the most common placement for a straight stitch or double needle hem.
Close to the Edge: Sewing very close to the outside fold line (e.g., 1/16 inch or less) gives a different look. This is often used for topstitching or decorative hems.
Blind Hem Location: The machine blind hem stitch places stitches in the folded allowance, with only small “bites” catching the main fabric edge.

For a beginner sewing machine hem, aiming for 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch (0.3 – 0.6 cm) from the inner folded edge is a good goal. This catches both layers of the folded hem allowance securely.

Bringing It All Together: Step-by-Step Summary

Let’s quickly go over the main steps again.

Prepare: Gather tools, remove old hem if needed.
Measure: Try on, mark new length, measure shirt hem allowance, cut excess fabric.
Fold & Press: Fold raw edge up once, press. Fold up a second time by the full shirt hem allowance, press. Pin in place. This is the crucial folding and pressing hem step.
Prepare Machine: Choose stitch (straight for woven, zigzag/stretch/double needle for knit), select needle, thread machine, check thread tension for hemming.
Sew: Start near a side seam. Sew slowly, keeping the stitch line a consistent distance from the inner fold (about 1/8″ or 0.3 cm). Use the correct technique for straight or curved hem sewing technique. Overlap stitches at the end.
Finish: Press the sewn hem. Trim threads.

By following these steps, you can easily achieve a professional-looking sewing machine hem on your shirts. Whether you are doing a simple t-shirt hem with sewing machine or hemming a woven shirt, the principles are the same. Practice on scrap fabric first if you are new to hemming or using a new technique like double needle hemming shirt. Good luck!

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I hem a shirt by hand instead of using a sewing machine?

A: Yes, you can hem a shirt by hand. Hand hemming is good for delicate fabrics or when you want an invisible stitch. However, a machine hem is generally stronger and faster, especially for everyday shirts like t-shirts or cotton button-downs.

Q: How much hem allowance do I need?

A: For shirts, a common hem allowance is 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) to 1 inch (2.5 cm). Knit fabrics often use a smaller allowance (1/2 inch to 3/4 inch) to reduce bulk and help the hem stretch. Woven fabrics can use 1 inch for a more substantial hem. The exact amount can be adjusted based on your preference and the shirt style.

Q: My sewing machine hem on a t-shirt is wavy. What am I doing wrong?

A: Wavy hems on knit fabrics like t-shirts usually happen because the fabric was stretched while sewing. Make sure you are not pulling the fabric as it goes under the needle. Use a stretch-friendly stitch (zigzag, stretch stitch, or double needle), a ballpoint or stretch needle, and check that your thread tension is not too tight. A walking foot attachment can also help feed the fabric evenly.

Q: How do I hem a curved shirt hem with a sewing machine?

A: Curved hem sewing technique requires careful folding and slower sewing. Make small folds as you go around the curve and press them very well with an iron. Use more pins to hold the curved fold in place. When sewing, sew slowly and gently pivot the fabric as needed to follow the curve, keeping your stitch line an even distance from the folded edge.

Q: What is a double needle and when should I use it?

A: A double needle is a sewing machine needle with two needles attached to one shank. It uses two top threads and one bobbin thread to create two parallel lines of stitching on the top side of the fabric and a zigzag stitch on the underside. It’s commonly used for double needle hemming shirt, especially on knit fabrics like t-shirts, because the zigzag on the back allows the hem to stretch without breaking the threads, giving a professional, ready-to-wear look.

Q: Do I need to finish the edge of the fabric inside the hem?

A: For woven fabrics that fray, it’s a good idea to finish the raw edge inside the hem. The easiest way is the double-fold method shown in the guide, which hides the raw edge. Other options include using a serger or a zigzag stitch along the raw edge before folding and sewing. For knit fabrics, finishing the edge isn’t strictly necessary as they don’t fray, but some people serge the edge to add strength or control rolling.

Q: How do I get my thread tension right for hemming?

A: Getting your thread tension for hemming correct is important. It means the top and bobbin threads meet evenly within the fabric layers. Too tight tension causes puckers or straight stitches on the back; too loose tension causes loops on the top or bottom. Always test sew on a scrap of your fabric first. Adjust the tension dial on your machine slightly until the stitches look balanced and smooth on both sides.

Q: Can I use this guide to hem other garments like pants or skirts?

A: The basic principles of measuring, folding, pressing, and sewing apply to hemming many different types of garments. However, pants and skirts might have different seam types, fabric weights, or required hem finishes than shirts. While the core steps are similar, you may need to adapt the specific hem allowance, finish, and stitch type based on the garment and fabric.