Simple Steps How To Hem Pants On Sewing Machine

Do you have pants that are too long? Want to make them the perfect fit? Learning how to shorten pants with a sewing machine is a great skill. It saves money and helps your clothes fit better. You can easily alter trouser length yourself. This guide will show you simple steps for hemming pants using a sewing machine. It covers the basics and even how to use a blind hem stitch or keep the original hem on jeans.

Hemming pants means making the bottom edge shorter and neat. It’s a basic sewing job. A sewing machine makes it fast and strong. Anyone can learn this skill with a little practice. Let’s get started.

Why Hem Your Own Pants?

Pants that are too long can trip you. They can also look sloppy. Having pants the right length makes them look and feel much better. Instead of paying someone else, you can do it yourself. This is cheaper. It also means you can hem pants whenever you need to. You get a custom fit every time.

Grasping the Right Gear: Tools for Hemming Pants

Before you start, get your tools ready. Having everything close by makes the job easier. Here is what you will need:

Sewing Machine: The most important tool. Any working machine will do.
Matching Thread: Choose thread that is the same color as your pants fabric. This helps the hem blend in.
Sharp Fabric Scissors: You need these to cut the fabric cleanly.
Measuring Tape or Ruler: To find the right length and measure the hem allowance.
Pins or Fabric Clips: To hold the fabric fold in place before sewing. Pins are common, clips work well too and don’t poke holes.
Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing helps make sharp folds. This is key for a neat hem.
Fabric Marker or Chalk: To mark the desired new length on the pants.
Seam Ripper (Maybe): If the pants have an old hem you need to take out.
Specific Presser Feet (Optional): A blind hem foot or a regular presser foot works. Your machine came with feet. Start with the standard one if you are new.

Having these tools ready saves you time. It helps you work smoothly.

Fathoming the Fit: Measure Pant Inseam for Hemming

Getting the length right is the most important step. If you measure wrong, the hem will be wrong.

How to Find the Perfect Length

Put the pants on: Wear the shoes you will most often wear with these pants. The shoe heel height changes where the hem should fall.
Stand naturally: Stand up straight. Do not look down at your feet. This changes how the pants hang.
Get help if you can: Ask a friend to help you mark the length. If you are alone, stand in front of a mirror.
Fold the pants up: Fold the bottom edge of one pant leg up. Fold it to where you want the hem to be. The hem should rest on the top of your shoe or just above it. For boots, it might be shorter. For wide-leg pants, it might cover more of the shoe.
Pin the fold: Put a few pins along the fold you just made. Put them sideways so they don’t get in the way while you mark.
Check both legs: Make sure both legs are folded to the same length. Your legs might be slightly different lengths. It is better to hem pants based on how they hang on your body. Check the look in the mirror.

Marking the Cut Line

Once you know where the finished hem fold will be, you need to mark where to cut. You also need fabric for the hem. This extra fabric is called the hem allowance. A common hem allowance is 1.5 to 2 inches (about 4-5 cm). For thick fabrics like jeans, a slightly smaller allowance like 1 inch (2.5 cm) might be easier.

Mark the finished length: With the pants still on and pinned, use your fabric marker or chalk. Draw a line just above the pins, along the folded edge. This line shows the finished length of the pants.
Measure the hem allowance: Take the pants off. Lay them flat. Measure down from the line you just drew. Measure down the amount of your chosen hem allowance (e.g., 2 inches). Draw a second line here. This is your cutting line.
- Example: If you want the finished hem to be at 30 inches from the waist, and your hem allowance is 2 inches, you will cut at 32 inches from the waist. Or, measure down from the marked finished line on the fabric itself.
Mark the other leg: Lay the first pant leg flat and smooth. Lay the second pant leg on top of it. Line up the waistbands and the inner leg seams. Use the marked first leg as a guide. Draw the same finished line and cutting line on the second leg. Or, measure from the top of the pant down to your marks on the first leg, and repeat these measurements on the second leg. Double check that both legs are marked the same length from the waist or crotch seam.
Double Check Measurements: Before cutting, measure the distance from the top of the waistband (or crotch seam for consistency) down to your cutting line on both legs. Make sure they are the same. Also, measure the distance from the finished hem line to the cutting line. This is your hem allowance. Make sure it is consistent all the way around the leg.

Table: Measuring and Marking

Step	Action	Notes
1. Try On	Wear pants & shoes. Fold to desired length.	Pin fold sideways.
2. Mark Finish	Draw line along fold (above pins).	This is the finished edge.
3. Measure Hem	Decide hem allowance (e.g., 2 inches).	Common: 1-2 inches.
4. Mark Cut Line	Measure down hem allowance from finish line.	This is where you will cut.
5. Repeat on Leg 2	Use Leg 1 as guide or re-measure.	Ensure symmetry.
6. Verify	Check distance from top to cut line.	Make sure both legs match.

This careful measuring sets you up for success.

Prepping for Perfection: Preparing the Fabric

You have marked your pants. Now get them ready to sew.

Wash and Dry: If you didn’t wash the pants before marking, do it now. Fabric can shrink the first time it’s washed. You want it to shrink before you hem it.
Remove Old Hem (if needed): If the old hem is bulky or you are changing the style, use your seam ripper to take out the old stitches. Take your time. Pull the threads gently so you don’t rip the fabric.
Cut the fabric: Use your sharp fabric scissors. Cut along the cutting line you marked earlier. Cut slowly and evenly. Try to cut a straight line all the way around.

Now you have pants legs that are too long by the amount of your hem allowance. The raw edge is ready to be folded and sewn.

Folding the Hem: Pressing Pants Hem Before Sewing

Pressing is not optional for a neat hem. It makes sharp, clean folds that are easy to sew.

First Fold: Fold the raw edge of the fabric up towards the inside of the pant leg. Fold it up by a small amount. About 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch (0.5 to 1 cm) is good.
Press the First Fold: Use your iron to press this small fold flat. Go all the way around the leg opening. This tucks the raw edge inside the hem. It makes a clean edge.
Second Fold (The Main Hem): Now, fold the edge up again. This time, fold it up so the folded edge is at your marked finished hem line. The amount you fold this time is your hem allowance minus the first small fold.
- Example: If your total hem allowance was 2 inches and your first fold was 1/4 inch, your second fold will be 1 3/4 inches (2 – 0.25 = 1.75).
Press the Second Fold: Press this larger fold flat. Use your measuring tape or a seam gauge as you go around. Make sure the width of the hem (from the folded edge up to the second fold) is the same all the way around. This is important for an even hem.
Pin or Clip: Once pressed, use pins or clips to hold the double-folded hem in place. Put the pins every few inches. If using pins, place them sideways, parallel to the raw edge you tucked inside. This way, you can sew right up to them and pull them out easily.

Pressing creates a sharp crease. This crease acts as a guide when you sew. It makes sewing much more accurate and the final hem looks professional.

Choosing Your Path: Sewing Machine Hem Stitch Type

Your sewing machine can do several types of stitches. The best stitch for your hem depends on the fabric and the look you want.

1. The Straight Stitch

What it is: The most basic stitch. A line of single stitches.
When to use: Good for simple hems on casual pants. It is visible from the outside.
How to use: Use a medium stitch length. Sew close to the folded-over edge (the one tucked inside). Or, sew near the top edge of the hem. Sewing near the top edge is common for jeans.

2. The Zigzag Stitch

What it is: A stitch that goes back and forth in a “Z” shape.
When to use: Can be used to finish the raw edge before folding and sewing a straight stitch. This stops fraying. It can also be used as the main hem stitch on stretchy fabrics or knits because it allows the fabric to stretch.
How to use: Set the stitch length and width. For finishing an edge, use a medium width and short length. For a main hem on knits, test on scrap fabric to find settings that allow stretch but look neat.

3. The Blind Hem Stitch

What it is: A special stitch that is mostly hidden from the outside. It makes tiny zigzag stitches that catch just a tiny bit of the main fabric.
When to use: Ideal for dress pants or skirts where you don’t want the stitching to show.
How to use: This stitch works best with a blind hem presser foot. Your machine likely has a built-in blind hem stitch setting. You fold the fabric in a special way. The foot guides the fabric so the zigzag only catches the main fabric edge slightly.

Table: Common Hem Stitches

Stitch Type	Look	Best For	Visible?	Ease	Notes
Straight Stitch	Simple line	Casual woven fabrics, jeans	Yes	Easiest	Sew close to edge or near top.
Zigzag Stitch	Z-shape	Finishing raw edge, stretch knits	Yes	Easy	Good for preventing fraying.
Blind Hem Stitch	Mostly hidden	Dress pants, skirts, woven fabrics	Almost none	Needs practice	Needs special folding & foot.

You will also need to set up your machine. This is about Sewing machine settings for hemming.

Basic Machine Settings

Needle: Use a universal needle for most fabrics. Use a denim needle for jeans. Use a stretch or ballpoint needle for knit/stretchy fabrics. Make sure the needle is new and sharp.
Thread: Use good quality thread that matches your fabric color.
Tension: Start with the default tension setting (often 4 or 5). Test on a scrap piece of the pant fabric. The stitches should look the same on the top and bottom. If the bobbin thread shows on top, the top tension is too tight. If the top thread shows on the bottom, the top tension is too loose.
Stitch Length: For a straight stitch hem, a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 mm is usually good. Shorter stitches are stronger but can make fabric pucker. Longer stitches are less visible but less secure. For zigzag or blind hem, use the machine’s recommended settings for that stitch, testing on a scrap first.
Presser Foot Pressure: Some machines let you change how much pressure the foot puts on the fabric. For thick fabrics like denim, you might need less pressure. For thin fabrics, you might need more. Most of the time, the default setting works fine.

Testing on a scrap of your pant fabric is always a good idea. Sew a few lines of your chosen stitch. Check the look and feel. Adjust settings if needed before sewing the actual hem.

Sewing the Hem: Shorten Pants With Sewing Machine

You have measured, cut, folded, pressed, and pinned. Your machine is set up. Now it is time to sew. This is how you Shorten pants with sewing machine.

Simple Straight Stitch Hem Steps

Place fabric: Put the pant leg under the presser foot. Line up the edge you want to sew along with a guide on the presser foot or the machine’s plate. If you folded the hem up twice, you will sew along the top folded edge. If you just folded it up once and finished the raw edge (like for jeans), you will sew closer to the bottom folded edge.
Lower the foot: Lower the presser foot onto the fabric.
Start sewing: Start sewing near an inseam (the seam on the inside of the leg). This makes the start and end of your stitching less noticeable. Sew a few stitches forward, then sew a few stitches backward (backstitch). This locks the stitches so they don’t come undone.
Sew around the leg: Sew slowly and steadily around the leg opening. Keep the edge of the fabric lined up with your guide. Sew at a constant speed. Let the machine feed the fabric. You just need to guide it gently.
Remove pins/clips: As you sew, remove pins or clips just before they go under the presser foot. Do not sew over pins.
Overlap stitching: When you get back to where you started, sew over the first few stitches by about 1/2 inch (1 cm).
Backstitch: Sew backward a few stitches to lock the end of the seam.
Lift foot and needle: Lift the presser foot. Turn the handwheel to make sure the needle is up out of the fabric.
Cut threads: Pull the fabric away from the machine. Cut the threads. Leave tails about 4 inches long.

Repeat for the second pant leg. Be careful to sew the second leg the same way as the first.

Variations and Special Cases

Pants come in different styles and fabrics. Here are a few common situations.

Basic Pant Hemming Tutorial

This is what we just described using a straight stitch. It involves:
1. Trying on and marking length.
2. Adding hem allowance.
3. Cutting.
4. Folding up raw edge 1/4″ and pressing.
5. Folding up again by the rest of the allowance and pressing.
6. Pinning.
7. Sewing with a straight stitch near the top folded edge.
This is a solid method for many types of woven pants.

Blind Hem Using Sewing Machine

This technique makes the stitching nearly invisible on the outside.
1. Prepare the hem: Fold and press the hem allowance as you would for a regular hem. Fold the raw edge up (first fold) and press. Then fold the main hem up (second fold) and press.
2. Special fold: Fold the main fabric of the pant leg up and away from the hem. Leave about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (0.5 – 1 cm) of the top edge of the hem showing. This creates a fold in the main fabric, and the top edge of the hem is sticking out from under it.
3. Use the Blind Hem Foot: Attach the blind hem foot to your machine. This foot has a guide in the center.
4. Set the stitch: Select the blind hem stitch on your machine. Adjust stitch length and width based on tests on scrap fabric. The zigzag part of the stitch should just catch the fold of the main fabric.
5. Position fabric: Place the specially folded fabric under the foot. The guide on the foot should run along the folded edge of the main fabric. The top edge of the hem (that is sticking out) goes to the right of the guide.
6. Sew: Start sewing near an inseam. The machine will sew mostly straight stitches on the hem allowance. Every few stitches, it will make one zigzag stitch to the left. This zigzag should just barely grab the fold of the main pant fabric.
7. Check as you go: Sew slowly. Check the outside of the pant leg. The needle should just be catching a tiny bit of the main fabric fold. If you catch too much, the stitches will show. If you catch too little, the hem won’t be secure. Adjust the stitch width or how the fabric is positioned under the foot.
8. Finish: Sew all the way around, overlapping stitches at the start/end. Backstitch is usually not needed with a blind hem stitch, as the stitches lock themselves.
9. Unfold and press: Unfold the main fabric. The stitching should be almost invisible on the outside, with just tiny dots where the zigzag caught the fabric fold. Press the hem flat again.

This takes practice, but gives a very clean finish for more formal pants.

Hemming Jeans While Keeping Original Hem

This is a popular way to hem jeans because it keeps the worn, faded look of the original factory hem. It is a bit different.

Measure and mark: Try on the jeans. Mark the finished length you want the jeans to be. Mark this line with chalk or a marker.
Measure allowance: Measure up from this line the width of the original hem. Factory hems are often around 5/8 to 3/4 inch (1.5 – 2 cm) wide. Mark this second line. This is where you will cut.
Cut the original hem off: Cut the pant leg off at the lower marked line (the one above your finished length). Keep the piece you cut off – this is the original hem. Cut both legs the same way.
Fold the pant leg: Fold the pant leg up towards the inside by the amount of your hem allowance (the width of the original hem). Press this fold. Do this twice if needed to tuck the raw edge inside, just like a regular hem tutorial, but the final fold distance is the original hem width. Alternatively, fold up only once by the original hem width.
Place the original hem: Take the piece with the original hem you cut off. Lay it on top of the folded pant leg, right sides facing up. The bottom edge of the original hem (the edge you just cut) should line up just above the top folded edge of the pant leg. Pin the original hem piece in place all the way around.
Sew: Use a straight stitch and strong thread (like denim thread or topstitching thread). You need a denim needle. Sew right in the ditch of the original hem’s stitching line. This means sewing directly on top of the line of stitches that was already there on the original hem piece. You will be sewing through three layers of fabric: the original hem piece, the folded pant leg, and the inner folded edge.
Overlap: Sew all the way around, overlapping the stitches at the start/end. Backstitch firmly.
Trim: Trim the excess fabric away from the inside of the hem. Carefully trim the raw edge of the folded pant leg that is now layered under the original hem. Trim it close to your stitching line, but be careful not to cut the stitches.
Press: Press the new hem flat.

This method takes practice and a strong machine/needle, but it is a great way to keep the look of your favorite jeans.

The Final Touches

You have sewn the hem. Now finish it up.

Trim Threads: Cut all loose threads close to the fabric.
Final Pressing: Go back to your iron. Press the finished hem again from both the inside and the outside. This makes the stitches sink into the fabric slightly and gives the hem a crisp, professional look.
Check Your Work: Turn the pants right side out. Look at the hem. Is it even all the way around? Is the stitching neat? Are there any puckers? Are the stitches secure? Try the pants on to see if the length is right.

If there are small issues, often a good press will help. For bigger issues like uneven length, you might need to use your seam ripper and try again. Don’t worry! Sewing is a skill that improves with practice.

Comprehending Common Problems

Sometimes things don’t go perfectly the first time. Here are some common issues and how to fix them simply.

Problem: Wavy Hem

Why it happens: You might be pulling or stretching the fabric while sewing. Or your presser foot pressure might be too high (for thick fabric) or too low (for thin fabric).
How to fix: Do not pull the fabric. Just guide it. Check your machine manual for adjusting presser foot pressure if needed. For wavy seams, try pressing with steam. If very wavy, rip the seam and sew again, being careful not to stretch.

Problem: Uneven Stitching

Why it happens: Not guiding the fabric straight. Not keeping the edge lined up with your guide. Sewing too fast.
How to fix: Slow down your sewing speed. Watch the edge of your fabric and keep it lined up with the mark on your presser foot or machine plate. Mark a sewing line with chalk if that helps you stay straight.

Problem: Bunching Fabric

Why it happens: Stitch length might be too short for the fabric. Tension might be off. Not enough pressing before sewing.
How to fix: Increase stitch length slightly. Re-check tension on a scrap piece. Make sure you pressed your folds really well. Pin the hem more often, especially on curves or thicker areas.

Problem: Thread Breaking

Why it happens: Needle is old, bent, or the wrong type for the fabric. Tension is too tight. Thread quality is poor. Machine is not threaded correctly.
How to fix: Put in a new needle. Use the correct needle for your fabric (denim for jeans, stretch for knits). Check that the top thread is going through all the guides correctly. Check your bobbin thread path too. Reduce tension slightly. Use good quality thread.

Don’t get discouraged by problems. They are how you learn. Take a break, then try to fix it.

Interpreting the Full Process: How to Alter Trouser Length

Putting it all together, altering trouser length is a simple process broken into clear steps:

Get ready: Gather your Tools for hemming pants.
Find the length: Measure pant inseam for hemming while wearing the pants and shoes. Mark the finished length.
Add seam allowance: Decide how much fabric you need for the hem. Mark the cutting line.
Cut: Cut off the extra fabric.
Prepare the hem: Fold the raw edge under. Pressing pants hem before sewing is key here. Fold the main hem up and press again. Pin it in place.
Set machine: Choose your Sewing machine hem stitch type (straight, blind, etc.). Adjust Sewing machine settings for hemming like stitch length and tension.
Sew: Shorten pants with sewing machine by stitching around the hem. Backstitch at the start and end.
Finish: Trim threads and press again.

This process works for most pants. Remember the special steps for Hemming jeans while keeping original hem or doing a Blind hem using sewing machine. Practicing the Basic pant hemming tutorial first is a good idea.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Here are quick answers to some common questions about hemming pants.

Q: Can I hem stretchy pants on a regular sewing machine?
A: Yes! Use a stretch or ballpoint needle. Use a stitch that allows stretch, like a zigzag stitch or a specific stretch stitch if your machine has one. A straight stitch might pop when you stretch the fabric.

Q: What is the best thread for hemming jeans?
A: For strength, use a sturdy polyester thread or a special denim thread. If you want the topstitching look of jeans, use a thicker topstitching thread in a matching or contrasting color.

Q: How wide should I make the hem?
A: It depends on the pants style and fabric. A common width is 1.5 to 2 inches (4-5 cm). For very thin fabrics or very wide pant legs, you might use a wider hem. For very narrow pant legs, a narrower hem (1 inch or less) is sometimes easier. Look at the original hem or other pants you own for ideas.

Q: Do I need a special presser foot?
A: You can hem most pants with the standard presser foot that came with your machine. A blind hem foot helps a lot if you want to do an invisible hem. A walking foot can help feed thick fabrics like denim more evenly. But start with the regular foot.

Q: My bobbin thread looks messy. What is wrong?
A: This is often a tension issue. Re-thread your machine completely, both the top thread and the bobbin. Make sure the thread is seated correctly in the tension discs. Test tension on a scrap and adjust if needed.

Q: How do I prevent the hem from fraying?
A: The simplest way is to fold the raw edge under (the first fold in our steps) before making the main hem fold. Other ways include using a zigzag stitch or serger on the raw edge before folding, or using binding tape.

Conclusion

Hemming pants on a sewing machine is a useful skill. It is a simple project that can save you money and make your clothes fit much better. By following these steps – measuring carefully, pressing well, and sewing steadily – you can shorten pants with confidence. Whether it’s a basic hem, a blind hem, or keeping the original look of your jeans, your sewing machine is a powerful tool to help you alter trouser length easily. Grab your pants, set up your machine, and give it a try!