A Guide: How To Hem Pants With Sewing Machine Step By Step

Hemming pants is a basic sewing skill. It lets you make pants the right length for you. You can easily hem pants at home using a sewing machine. This guide shows you how to do it step by step.

Gather Your Tools

Before you start hemming, get all your things ready. Having everything close by makes the job easier.

Sewing Machine: Make sure it works well. It should have thread in it.
Thread: Use thread that matches your pants. If you cannot find a perfect match, pick thread that is a little darker. It will blend in better.
Scissors: Sharp scissors are needed. You will cut fabric.
Measuring Tape: You need this to find the right length.
Pins: Pins hold the fabric fold in place. Use many pins.
Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Pen: This helps you mark where to cut or fold.
Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing makes your hem neat and flat. It is a very important step. Pressing a hem helps it look good and stay put while you sew.
Seam Ripper: You might need to take out old stitches.
Sewing Machine Foot for Hemming (Optional): Some sewing machines have special feet. These feet can help you sew a straight hem or a blind hem. A regular foot works fine too.

Get the Pants Ready

First, prepare the pants you want to hem.

Wash the pants. Fabric can shrink when washed. Hemming after washing means the length will stay right.
Remove the old hem if there is one. Use a seam ripper carefully. Pull out the stitches one by one.
Press the bottom edge of the pants flat. Use your iron. This helps you measure correctly.

Find the New Length

This is a very important part. You need to know how short to make the pants. This means finding the right sewing pants length.

Put on the pants. Wear the shoes you will wear with these pants most often. Shoes change how pants hang.
Have a friend help you. Stand straight. Do not look down at your feet.
Your friend should fold the pant leg up to the right length.
Where should the hem end? This depends on the style.
- Dress pants often touch the top of your shoe heel.
- Casual pants might sit on top of your shoe.
- Some styles are shorter, showing your ankle.
Once the length looks right, your friend will put pins around the pant leg. Put pins parallel to the floor. Put them every few inches. This marks the fold line.
Take the pants off carefully. Do not let the pins fall out.

Mark and Measure

Now you have the fold line marked with pins. You need to mark the cutting line.

Lay the pants flat on a table. Smooth them out.
Start at the folded edge where the pins are. This is where the hem will be after you sew.
You need extra fabric below this fold line. This extra fabric folds up inside the pant leg. This extra fabric is the hem allowance.
How much extra fabric do you need? This depends on the fabric for hemming and the type of hem you want.
- For a simple hem, 1.5 inches to 2 inches is often enough.
- Heavier fabrics like hemming denim jeans might need a bit more.
- Lighter fabrics can use less, maybe 1 inch.
Use your measuring tape. Measure down from the pinned fold line.
If you want a 2-inch hem allowance, measure 2 inches down from the pins.
Use your tailor’s chalk or pen to make small marks at this measurement. Go all around the pant leg.
Connect the marks to make a cutting line. This line should be parallel to the pinned fold line.
Double-check your measurements. Measure the inseam of the pants from the crotch down to the pinned line. Then measure from the crotch down to the marked cutting line. Make sure the numbers make sense. Measuring pant inseam is key to getting the length even.
Repeat this process for the other pant leg. Measure the inseam of the first leg from the cro crotch to the pinned line. Transfer this measurement to the second leg. Pin the second leg at this length. Then mark the cutting line just like the first leg. This makes sure both legs are the same length after hemming. Altering trousers means making sure both sides match.

Cut the Fabric

Now you cut off the extra fabric.

Lay the pant leg flat.
Use your sharp scissors.
Cut along the line you marked for cutting. Cut smoothly and evenly.
Cut the other pant leg the same way.

Prepare the Hem Fold

You have the fabric cut. Now you make the folds that hide the raw edge. This is part of creating a simple pant hem.

Take one pant leg. The raw edge is the bottom edge.
First fold: Fold the raw edge up by about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.
Press this first fold with your iron. This makes a crisp edge. Use steam if your fabric can handle it. Pressing a hem helps shape the fabric.
Second fold: Fold the fabric up again. This time, fold it up so the first fold is hidden inside.
How much should you fold up for the second fold? This is your hem allowance measurement minus the first fold.
If your hem allowance was 2 inches and your first fold was 1/2 inch, the second fold will be 1.5 inches.
Fold up 1.5 inches from the bottom edge (which is now the first fold).
Pin this second fold in place. Put pins close to the top folded edge. Pin all around the pant leg. Make sure the fold is even all the way around.
Press this second fold well. Iron all around the bottom edge of the pant leg. Good pressing makes sewing much easier and the hem looks much better.

Sew the Hem

Now you use your sewing machine to sew the hem in place. This is the main part of the sewing machine hemming tutorial.

Get your sewing machine ready. Make sure the bobbin has enough thread.
Set up your machine.
- Choose the right needle for your fabric. A regular needle works for most fabrics. Use a denim needle for hemming denim jeans.
- Choose your stitch type. A straight stitch is the most common for a simple pant hem. A blind hem stitch is used if you want stitches that do not show much on the outside.
- Set the stitch length. A length of 2.5 to 3 is good for most hems.
- Set the tension. The usual setting often works fine. Test on a scrap piece of fabric if you are not sure.
Place the pant leg under the sewing machine foot. The folded edge you want to sew should be under the foot.
Where do you sew?
- For a straight stitch: Sew close to the top folded edge of the hem. Sew about 1/8 inch from the edge. This line of stitches will show on the outside of the pants.
- For a blind hem stitch: This stitch makes small stitches that are almost hidden. Your machine must have a blind hem stitch setting. You also need a special sewing machine foot for hemming, often called a blind hem foot. The blind hem stitch is a straight stitch with a small zig-zag stitch every few stitches. The zig-zag catches just a tiny bit of the main pant fabric. You fold the hem in a special way for this stitch. Fold the hem up as before, but then fold the main pant fabric back so the top of the hem fold sticks out a little. The blind hem foot guides this fold. The straight stitch part sews on the hem allowance fabric. The zig-zag part just catches the main pant fabric fold.
Start sewing slowly. Sew around the pant leg.
Remove pins as you come to them. Do not sew over pins. This can break your needle.
Keep the fabric straight and guide it gently. Do not pull or push the fabric.
Sew all the way around. When you get back to where you started, sew over the first few stitches. This locks the stitches so they do not come undone.
Lift the foot and cut the threads.

Choosing Your Hemming Stitch

Let’s look closer at the stitches you can use.

H4: Straight Stitch Hem

This is the most common way to sew a simple pant hem.

How it looks: A line of straight stitches shows on the outside of the pants. You can choose one line of stitches or two. Two lines give a stronger look, often used on jeans.
Good for: Jeans, casual pants, heavy fabrics. It is strong and easy to do.
Steps summarized:
1. Prepare hem fold (fold up raw edge, then fold again).
2. Press the fold well.
3. Pin the fold in place.
4. Sew a straight line of stitches close to the top folded edge. Sew about 1/8 inch away.
5. Use a longer stitch length for jeans (3 or 3.5).
6. Sew a second line of stitches higher up if you want, like 1/2 inch from the bottom fold. This is common for hemming denim jeans.
Machine Foot: Use your regular sewing machine foot.

H4: Blind Hem Stitch

This stitch makes the hem look hand-sewn because the stitches are mostly hidden.

How it looks: On the outside of the pants, you see only tiny dots of thread. On the inside, you see the blind hem stitch zig-zagging along the edge of the hem allowance.
Good for: Dress pants, skirts, curtains, lighter fabrics where you don’t want stitches to show.
Requirements: Your sewing machine must have a blind hem stitch setting. It helps a lot to have a blind hem sewing machine foot for hemming.
Preparation Steps (Special Fold):
1. Fold the hem up by the full hem allowance amount (e.g., 2 inches). Do not fold the raw edge under first like with a straight stitch. Just fold the raw edge up.
2. Press this single fold well.
3. Now, fold the main pant fabric back on itself, away from the hem. Do this so that the top edge of the hem allowance sticks out a little, about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. Pin this special fold.
Sewing Steps:
1. Set your machine to the blind hem stitch.
2. Attach the blind hem sewing machine foot for hemming. This foot has a guide that helps you keep the fold in the right place.
3. Place the fabric under the foot. The folded edge of the main fabric should run against the guide on the foot. The top edge of the hem allowance (sticking out) should be to the right of the guide.
4. Sew slowly. The straight stitches will sew on the hem allowance. The zig-zag stitch will jump to the left and just catch the folded edge of the main pant fabric.
5. Adjust the stitch width and length if needed. You want the zig-zag to catch just the edge of the main fabric fold. If it goes too far left, the stitches will show a lot on the outside.
6. Sew all around. Overlap stitches at the start/end.
Finishing: After sewing, unfold the main fabric. The hem will fall down. The blind stitches will be on the inside edge of the hem. Tiny dots will be on the outside. Give it a good press.

Finishing Touches

You are almost done!

Trim any loose threads.
Give the finished hem a final press. Press from the inside of the pant leg if possible, using steam. This sets the stitches and makes the hem flat and neat.
Check the hem on the outside. Look at the stitches. Make sure they are even. For a blind hem, check that the stitches are nearly invisible.

Special Fabric Notes (Fabric for Hemming)

Different fabrics need slightly different care when hemming.

Cotton and Cotton Blends: These are easy to work with. A straight stitch works well. Pressing is easy.
Denim: Hemming denim jeans is very common. Denim is thick. Use a strong needle (a denim needle is best). Use strong thread. A slightly longer stitch length (3 or 3.5) looks good and works well on denim. You can sew one or two lines of stitches. Two lines are classic for jeans. Be careful when sewing over the thick seams on the sides of the jeans. The machine might need help getting over the hump. You can use a “jean-a-ma-jig” tool or just lift the back of the foot a little by hand as you sew over the seam.
Linen: Linen wrinkles easily but presses well. Pressing is key for a neat linen hem. It can fray, so folding the raw edge under twice is important for a simple hem. A blind hem also works well on linen.
Synthetics (Polyester, Rayon): These can be slippery. Pins are extra important. Pressing might need a lower heat. Some synthetic fabrics can melt. Test on a scrap.
Knits (Jersey, Sweatpants): Knit fabrics stretch. A straight stitch can break when the fabric stretches. Use a stretch needle (ballpoint needle) and a stretch stitch on your machine (often looks like a lightning bolt or a small zig-zag). A double needle also creates a stretchy hem that looks like ready-to-wear. You use two threads on top and one in the bobbin.
Silk and Satins: These are very slippery and fine. They need very sharp needles and pins. A blind hem is best for these fabrics to hide the stitches. Handle them gently. Pressing needs very low heat.
Wool: Wool can be bulky. Pressing with steam is very helpful to make folds flat. For thicker wools, you might “grade” the hem allowance. This means trimming the folded layers to different widths inside the hem so it is not too thick.

Tips for Success

Here are extra tips for altering trousers by hemming.

Always Press: We said it before, but it is worth saying again. Pressing makes a huge difference. It helps folds stay in place and makes sewing easier and neater.
Use Sharp Tools: Sharp scissors cut cleanly. A fresh needle on your sewing machine prevents skipped stitches and snags. Change your needle often, especially when sewing thick fabrics like denim.
Test on Scraps: Before sewing the actual pants, test your stitch and tension on a piece of fabric cut from the leftover pant leg. This lets you adjust your machine until it is perfect for your fabric.
Go Slow: You do not need to sew fast. Sewing slowly helps you guide the fabric straight and sew an even line.
Secure the Start and End: Always sew back and forth a few stitches at the beginning and end of your sewing line. This is called backstitching. It stops the stitches from coming undone.
Consider Fusible Web: For a very simple, no-sew option, you can use fusible hem web (like Stitch Witchery). You place it inside the fold and press with a hot iron. The heat melts the web and glues the fabric layers together. This is not as strong as sewing, but it is fast for a temporary fix or on fabrics that are hard to sew.

Different Ways to Alter Trousers Length

Hemming is the most common way of altering trousers length. But there are other ways depending on the pant style or if the pants are too short. However, hemming usually means making them shorter.

Sometimes, you might need to add fabric if pants are too short. This is harder. You might use fabric from another part of the pants (like the waist) or add a matching piece of fabric. Hemming is the easiest length alteration.

The Sewing Machine Foot for Hemming in Detail

Some sewing machine feet are made to help with hems.

Blind Hem Foot: We talked about this. It has a guide to help sew the blind hem stitch correctly.
Rolled Hem Foot: This foot helps you make a very narrow, neat hem, often used on very light fabrics like scarves or blouses. It is usually too small for pant hems unless the pants are made of very fine fabric.
Adjustable Hemmer Foot: Some machines have a foot that can be adjusted to fold a specific width of fabric as you sew. This helps make a very even straight stitch hem.

You do not need these special feet to hem pants. A regular foot works fine for a simple straight stitch hem. But they can make certain jobs easier or give a more specific look.

Step-by-Step Sewing Machine Hemming Tutorial Recap

Let’s quickly review the process for a standard simple pant hem.

Prepare: Wash and press pants. Remove old hem.
Measure: Put pants on with shoes. Pin the correct length fold line with a friend’s help.
Mark & Cut: Lay pants flat. Measure down from the pin line for the hem allowance (1.5-2 inches). Mark the cutting line. Cut along the line.
Fold & Press: Fold the raw edge up 1/4-1/2 inch and press. Fold up again by the rest of the hem allowance and press. Pin in place. Press well again.
Sew: Set machine to straight stitch. Sew close to the top folded edge, about 1/8 inch away. Backstitch at start and end. Sew around the pant leg.
Finish: Trim threads. Give a final press.

This sewing machine hemming tutorial covers the basic way to make your pants fit just right.

Fabric for Hemming: What Matters

The type of fabric changes how you handle the hem.

Weight: Heavy fabrics like denim or wool need a wider hem allowance and stronger stitches/needles. Light fabrics might need a narrow hem or a blind hem.
Fraying: Fabrics that fray a lot (like linen, some cottons) need the raw edge folded under twice to hide the fraying.
Stretch: Knit fabrics need stitches that stretch.
Slipperiness: Silky or synthetic fabrics are hard to hold. Pin extra carefully.
Heat Sensitivity: Some fabrics melt or scorch easily. Test iron heat on a scrap.

Knowing your fabric helps you choose the right needle, stitch, hem width, and pressing temperature. This is key to a good-looking hem that lasts.

FAQ Section

Here are some common questions about hemming pants with a sewing machine.

Q: Can I hem pants by hand instead of a machine?
A: Yes, you can. Hand hemming takes longer and is often used for very delicate fabrics or when you want truly invisible stitches. Machine hemming is faster and stronger for most pants.

Q: My sewing machine is skipping stitches on thick fabric like denim. What should I do?
A: Make sure you are using a new denim needle. Use heavy-duty thread. Lengthen your stitch slightly (to 3 or 3.5). Sew slowly, especially over side seams. You might need to help the fabric feed evenly.

Q: How wide should my hem be?
A: A standard hem is 1.5 to 2 inches wide (the total fabric folded up). Jeans often have hems around 1.5 inches. Dress pants might be 2 inches. Lighter fabrics can have narrower hems (1 inch). It is partly a style choice and partly based on fabric weight.

Q: My hem is wavy after sewing. Why?
A: This often happens if you pulled or pushed the fabric while sewing. It can also happen if the fabric was not pressed well first. Make sure you guide the fabric gently and let the machine feed it. Pressing your folds firmly before sewing helps prevent this.

Q: Do I have to cut off the old hem?
A: Yes, usually. If you just fold the old hem up, it will be too bulky and uneven. Removing the old stitches and cutting a fresh edge gives you a clean start.

Q: What is the inseam and why do I measure it?
A: The inseam is the seam on the inside of the leg, from the crotch down to the bottom. Measuring the inseam from the crotch to your marked hem line helps ensure both pant legs end up the exact same length. This is vital when altering trousers.

Hemming pants is a useful skill. With practice, you can make your pants fit perfectly using your sewing machine. Take your time, measure carefully, and press well. Happy sewing!