Machine embroidery applique lets you add fabric shapes to your projects with beautiful stitching. It is a fun way to use fabric scraps and make unique designs. It is a popular method for clothes, bags, quilts, and home décor. This guide will walk you through the steps. You will learn how to do machine embroidery applique from start to finish.
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What is Machine Embroidery Applique?
Applique is simply adding one piece of fabric on top of another. You then stitch the top fabric down. Machine embroidery applique uses an embroidery machine to do the stitching. The machine guides you through placing the fabric shape. It then sews a decorative stitch around the edges. This makes a neat and secure design. It looks professional and lasts a long time.
Why Use Machine Embroidery Applique?
Applique is great for many reasons.
* It adds color and texture to designs.
* It uses less embroidery thread than filling large areas with stitches. This saves time and thread.
* It lets you use special fabrics like glitter, minky, or felt.
* It is fast and easy with a machine.
* It makes designs stand out.
Gathering Your Supplies
You need a few things to get started. Having the right tools makes the job much easier.
You will need:
* An embroidery machine
* An embroidery hoop
* Embroidery thread (top thread and bobbin thread)
* Needles for your machine
* Your base fabric (the item you are putting applique on)
* Applique fabric (the fabric you are cutting shapes from)
* Fusible web for machine applique
* Embroidery stabilizer for applique
* Sharp scissors (small, pointy ones are best for cutting applique fabric)
* A design file for applique
* Tweezers (helpful for picking away small fabric bits)
* Optional: Fabric glue stick or temporary spray adhesive
Comprehending Applique Fabric Preparation
Choosing the right fabric is important. Your base fabric should be stable. Cotton is a good choice. Other stable fabrics work too. Applique fabric can be almost anything. Cotton, felt, minky, and even vinyl can work. Thinner fabrics can be easier to work with. Pre-wash both your base fabric and your applique fabric. This stops them from shrinking later. It also removes any sizing or chemicals. This helps the fusible web stick better. It also makes your stitches look nicer. Make sure your applique fabric is pressed flat before you start. Wrinkles can cause problems.
Working with Fusible Web for Machine Applique
Fusible web is a thin material. It has glue on both sides. You put it on the back of your applique fabric. Heat from an iron melts the glue. This glue helps hold the applique fabric in place on your base fabric. It is a temporary hold for stitching. It also helps stop the edges of the applique fabric from fraying. There are different types of fusible web.
* Paper-backed web: This is common. It has paper on one side. You iron the web to your fabric. Then you peel off the paper.
* Non-paper-backed web: This web is just the glue. You iron it between two layers.
For machine embroidery applique, paper-backed web is very useful. You iron it onto the back of your applique fabric before cutting your shape. The paper protects your iron. It also gives you a surface to draw on if needed. Follow the instructions that come with your fusible web. They will tell you the right heat setting and pressing time. Make sure the glue side touches the wrong side of your applique fabric. Press firmly but do not iron back and forth. Lift and press instead. This stops the fabric from stretching.
Selecting Embroidery Stabilizer for Applique
Stabilizer is a must-have for machine embroidery. It supports the fabric while the machine stitches. For applique, you need the right kind of support. The best embroidery stabilizer for applique depends on your base fabric and design.
* Tear-away stabilizer: Good for stable fabrics like cotton. You tear it away after stitching.
* Cut-away stabilizer: Best for stretchy or unstable fabrics like knits. You cut away the extra after stitching. It stays under the stitches. This gives lasting support. It stops the fabric from stretching out of shape over time.
* Wash-away stabilizer: Used when you do not want any stabilizer left. Good for delicate fabrics or towels where the back might be seen. It dissolves in water.
Often, a medium-weight cut-away stabilizer is a good choice for applique on t-shirts or sweatshirts. For quilting cotton, tear-away might be enough. Sometimes, you might use two layers of stabilizer. Or you might use a sticky stabilizer. Sticky stabilizer has a sticky surface. You stick your fabric to it instead of hooping the fabric. This is good for items that are hard to hoop. Think shirt cuffs or small pockets. Always hoop your stabilizer tightly. It should be like a drum. If you are hooping the fabric too, make sure it is also flat and tight. Loose hooping causes puckering.
Readying Your Materials
Before you go to the machine, prepare your fabrics.
1. Pre-wash and Press: Wash your base fabric and applique fabrics. Dry and iron them flat. This is a simple but important step.
2. Apply Fusible Web: Cut a piece of fusible web slightly larger than your applique fabric piece. Place the fusible web, glue side down, on the wrong side of your applique fabric. Follow the web’s instructions to iron it on. Let it cool completely. Do not remove the paper backing yet if it has one.
3. Cut Applique Fabric (Optional Pre-cutting): Some people pre-cut their applique shapes. You can trace the shape from the design instructions onto the paper backing of your fusible web. Then cut neatly along the lines. Keep your cuts smooth. Others prefer the stitch and trim applique method. This is where you cut the fabric after the machine sews a guide line. We will cover this more later. Using fusible web makes cutting applique fabric easier. It adds a bit of stiffness.
Hooping for Applique Embroidery
Correct hooping is key. The fabric and stabilizer must be tight. No wrinkles should be present inside the hoop.
* Method 1: Hooping Fabric and Stabilizer: Cut your stabilizer a little larger than your hoop. Place it under your base fabric. Put both layers in the hoop. Make sure the fabric is smooth and straight. Tighten the hoop screw well. Check that the fabric feels tight like a drumhead.
* Method 2: Using Sticky Stabilizer: Hoop only the sticky stabilizer. Make sure it is very tight. Score the paper on top of the sticky stabilizer with a pin or craft knife. Do not cut the stabilizer itself. Peel away the paper inside the hoop. The sticky surface is now ready. Place your base fabric smoothly onto the sticky surface. Press it down well. This method is good for items hard to fit in a hoop. It is also good for delicate fabrics you do not want hoop marks on.
Make sure the area where your design will stitch is centered in the hoop. Also, make sure your base fabric is large enough. You need room around the design area.
The Machine Embroidery Applique Steps
Now you are ready to stitch. These are the standard machine embroidery applique steps. Follow your machine’s instructions and your design file’s color chart. The machine will stop for each step.
Step 1: Stitching the Placement Line
Put your hooped fabric on the machine. Load your applique design. The machine will stitch the first step. This stitch line shows you where to place your applique fabric. It is just an outline stitch. It does not go through the applique fabric yet. It only stitches on your base fabric (and stabilizer). Once this line is sewn, the machine stops.
Step 2: Placing the Applique Fabric
Take your hoop off the machine, but do not unhoop your fabric. Place your prepared applique fabric over the placement line. Make sure it completely covers the stitched outline. It should extend beyond the line on all sides. This is important for the next step. If you used fusible web with paper backing, you should have ironed it onto the back of your applique fabric piece by now. You would peel off the paper backing before placing the fabric here. The sticky side of the applique fabric piece goes down onto your base fabric, covering the placement line. Use a little fabric glue stick or temporary spray adhesive if you are not using fusible web or want extra hold. Smooth the fabric flat.
Step 3: Stitching the Tack Down Stitch
Put the hoop back on the machine. The machine will now stitch the tack down stitch. This stitch sews your applique fabric piece onto your base fabric. It usually stitches just inside or directly on top of the placement line. This stitch holds the applique fabric firmly in place for the next step. Once this stitch is done, the machine stops again. Do not remove your project from the hoop yet.
Step 4: Cutting the Applique Fabric
This is a very important step. You need to trim away the extra applique fabric outside the tack down stitch. There are two main ways to do this:
* Stitch and trim applique method: This is the most common method. Your machine has just finished the tack down stitch. Now, use sharp scissors to carefully cut away the extra applique fabric. Cut close to the tack down stitch line. Be very careful not to cut the stitches themselves or the base fabric. Small, curved-tip applique scissors are very helpful for this. They let you get close without snagging the base fabric. Trim all the way around the shape. Remove all the excess fabric from the top.
* Pre-cut method: If you pre-cut your applique shape before stitching (as mentioned in “Readying Your Materials”), you would have placed that pre-cut shape in Step 2. In this Step 4, you do not need to cut. The machine will just move on to the next stitch. The stitch and trim method is often preferred. It makes it easier to get a perfect edge that matches the stitching.
Take your time when cutting applique fabric. A clean, even cut makes the final satin stitch look much better.
Step 5: Stitching the Finishing Edge
Put your hoop back on the machine one last time. The machine will now stitch the final border. This stitch covers the raw edge of the applique fabric you just trimmed. It also securely stitches the applique shape down. The type of stitch used here gives you different looks.
Satin Stitch Applique Edge
This is the most classic look. The machine sews a wide, dense zigzag stitch. These stitches are placed very close together. This creates a smooth, shiny edge that covers the raw fabric edge completely. The stitches look like a satin ribbon. Make sure your tension is good. You do not want to see the bobbin thread on top. You also do not want loops underneath. The satin stitch makes a durable edge. It stops the applique fabric from fraying over time. It gives a very finished and clean look.
Raw Edge Applique Embroidery
Sometimes, you want a different look. You might want a more casual or rustic feel. For raw edge applique embroidery, the final stitch is not a dense satin stitch. It is usually a lighter stitch. This could be:
* A zigzag stitch that is less dense (stitches are further apart).
* A straight stitch just inside the cut edge.
* A decorative stitch like a blanket stitch.
With raw edge applique, you see the edge of the applique fabric. The fabric will likely fray a little over time, especially after washing. Some people like this look. Using fabrics that do not fray much, like felt or fleece, works well with raw edge applique. If you use a fabric that frays a lot, consider using a product like Fray Check. Apply it to the raw edge before washing. The stitch still holds the fabric down. It just does not cover the edge completely like a satin stitch.
Finishing Your Applique
Once the final stitching is done, take your hoop off the machine. Remove the fabric from the hoop.
* Remove Stabilizer: Carefully remove the stabilizer from the back. If you used tear-away, gently tear it away from around the design. Be careful near the stitches. If you used cut-away, use scissors to trim the stabilizer about half an inch away from the stitching. If you used wash-away, follow the instructions to dissolve it.
* Remove Topping (If Used): Sometimes, you use a water-soluble topping on top of textured fabrics like terry cloth or minky. This keeps stitches from sinking into the pile. If you used one, carefully remove it. You might need water to dissolve any small bits left behind.
* Clean Up: Snip any loose threads. Use tweezers to pull away any small bits of fabric or stabilizer stuck near the stitches.
* Press: Give your project a final press from the back. Use a pressing cloth if needed. This helps smooth the stitches and the fabric.
Your machine embroidery applique is now complete!
Deep Dive into Applique Fabric Preparation
Let’s look closer at getting your applique fabric ready. This step sets you up for success.
* Fabric Choice: Cotton prints are popular. They are easy to cut and stitch. Felt is also easy; it doesn’t fray, making raw edge applique simple. Minky and fleece add softness. Denim or twill add strength. Consider the base fabric. Use similar weight fabrics if you can. A light cotton applique on heavy denim works. But heavy denim applique on light cotton might pull.
* Pre-Washing: This is highly recommended. Fabrics can shrink. If your base fabric and applique fabric shrink differently after you sew them together, your project can get distorted or puckered. Pre-washing prevents this. Wash them how you plan to wash the final item.
* Applying Fusible Web: This is the standard way to prepare applique fabric for machine embroidery.
* Get your fusible web. Make sure it is meant for fabric.
* Cut a piece slightly larger than your applique fabric piece.
* Place the fusible web, paper side up (glue is on the bottom), on your ironing board.
* Place the wrong side of your applique fabric on top of the glue side of the web.
* Cover with a pressing cloth if your fabric is delicate.
* Press with a warm iron (check web instructions for exact setting). Do not slide the iron. Press straight down for the time recommended. This melts the glue and bonds it to the fabric.
* Let it cool completely. This is important. Cooling makes the glue set.
* Once cool, peel off the paper backing. Your applique fabric now has a sticky coating on the back. It is ready to be placed on your base fabric when the machine stitches the placement line.
* Benefits of Fusible Web:
* Holds the applique fabric in place while stitching (less shifting).
* Adds body to thin fabrics, making them easier to cut.
* Helps prevent fraying under the final stitch.
Deciphering Embroidery Stabilizer Needs for Applique
Picking the right stabilizer is not hard once you know what each type does.
* Cut-Away: Use on fabrics that stretch. Knits, t-shirts, sweatshirts. It stays with the fabric. It gives long-term support. Imagine stitching on a stretchy shirt collar. Without cut-away, the stitches could stretch and distort over time. A medium-weight cut-away is a good all-around choice for many applique projects on knitwear.
* Tear-Away: Use on stable, non-stretchy fabrics. Woven cotton, canvas, quilting cotton. It provides support during stitching. After stitching, you tear it away easily. You do not want stabilizer left if it makes the fabric stiff or is visible.
* Wash-Away: Use on fabrics where the back must be clean. Towels (where the back terry loops would trap cut-away), sheer fabrics, freestanding lace applique (though less common for standard applique shapes). It dissolves completely in water. It can be a film or a fibrous type.
* Sticky Stabilizer: Use when hooping the item is difficult or impossible. Small items, awkward shapes, fabrics that might be damaged by hoop marks (like some velvets). You hoop the sticky stabilizer only. Then stick the item onto the hoop.
Sometimes you might combine stabilizers. For example, sticky stabilizer in the hoop, plus a piece of tear-away under the item if it needs more body. Always test stabilizer with your fabric. Stitch a small test design on a scrap. Check how it supports the stitches. See how it removes.
Refining the Stitch and Trim Applique Method
The stitch and trim method is popular for a good reason. It helps you get a perfect match between your fabric edge and the final border stitch.
Here’s a closer look at Step 4 when using this method:
1. Machine Stops: Your machine finishes the tack down stitch. This stitch is your cutting guide.
2. Careful Access: If possible, remove the hoop from the machine. This gives you better access to cut. Do not remove the fabric from the hoop.
3. Use the Right Scissors: Small, very sharp scissors are best. Applique scissors often have one paddle-shaped blade. This blade goes under the fabric. It protects the base fabric while the sharp blade cuts the applique fabric on top. This shape helps prevent accidentally cutting the fabric you want to keep.
4. Cut Close: Cut about 1/8 inch away from the tack down stitch line. Cut smoothly and evenly around the entire shape. Do not rush. Try to make a clean edge. Any bumps or unevenness can sometimes show through the final satin stitch, especially if it’s not super dense.
5. Remove Scraps: Pull away all the trimmed fabric scraps. Make sure no little threads are left hanging near the stitching. Tweezers are good for this.
6. Check Your Work: Look closely at the trimmed edge. Is it smooth? Did you cut too close in any spot? Did you accidentally snip the tack down stitch? If you did, you might be able to use a little fabric glue to hold that spot until the final stitch covers it. If it’s a big snip, you might need to re-stitch the tack down line if your machine allows.
This step requires focus. Good lighting helps. Sitting comfortably helps too. Practicing on scraps is a great idea before doing it on a final project.
Achieving a Perfect Satin Stitch Applique Edge
The satin stitch is the lovely, smooth border. Getting it right makes your applique look professional.
* Thread Choice: Use quality embroidery thread. Rayon or polyester embroidery thread works well. Match the top thread and bobbin thread color if you want the back to look neat. Some people use white bobbin thread, which is fine for most projects.
* Needle: Use an embroidery needle. A size 75/11 or 90/14 is common. Make sure your needle is new and sharp. A dull needle can cause skipped stitches or thread breaks.
* Tension: Correct thread tension is vital for satin stitch. The top thread should wrap around to the back slightly. The bobbin thread should lie flat on the back, with the top thread meeting it in the middle of the fabric layers. If you see bobbin thread loops on top, your top tension is too loose. If you see top thread loops on the back, your top tension is too tight (or bobbin tension is too loose). Most machines have auto tension. If yours does not, you might need to adjust it.
* Design Quality: The design file itself affects the satin stitch. A good design has the right stitch density and width for the stitch size. A poorly digitized design might have gaps or be too dense, causing thread breaks or stiffness.
* Speed: Running your machine a bit slower for the final satin stitch can help the stitches form correctly and evenly.
* Stabilization: Remember how important stabilizer is? It stops the fabric from moving or stretching as the dense satin stitch is applied. Without enough support, the fabric can gather or pucker. This makes the satin stitch uneven or wavy.
Look at your stitches on a test piece. Are they smooth and even? Do they cover the raw edge fully? If not, check your tension, needle, and stabilizer.
Exploring Raw Edge Applique Embroidery
Raw edge applique is simpler in some ways. You do not need a dense satin stitch.
* Fabric Choice: Best with fabrics that do not fray much. Felt, fleece, maybe some tightly woven linens or denims. Or, embrace the fray! Cotton will fray. This can be part of the look.
* Stitch Choice:
* Zigzag: A standard zigzag stitch with a bit of width and length. The stitches are spaced out.
* Straight Stitch: A line of single stitches just inside the cut edge. Very minimal.
* Triple Stitch or Bean Stitch: A heavier straight stitch look. The machine stitches forward, back, then forward again on the same line. Makes a bolder line.
* Blanket Stitch: A decorative stitch that looks like hand blanket stitching. It forms L-shapes along the edge. Many machines have this stitch built-in.
* Preparing the Edge: If you want less fraying, use a product like Fray Check on the cut edge after trimming but before the final stitch. Let it dry fully.
* Why Choose Raw Edge?
* Faster stitching (lighter stitch density).
* Uses less thread.
* Can give a more casual, handmade, or modern look.
* Works well on items that need to be soft or flexible, where a dense satin stitch might be too stiff.
The machine steps are the same (placement, tack down, trim, final stitch). Only the final stitch type changes.
Common Questions About Machine Applique
People often ask similar things when starting applique.
* What if my fabric puckers? Puckering usually means the fabric is not stabilized enough or not hooped tightly. Make sure you are using the right stabilizer for your fabric type. Hoop the fabric and stabilizer together drum-tight. Check that your machine tension is correct.
* My satin stitch has gaps or is uneven. Check your trimming in Step 4. If you trimmed too close or unevenly, the satin stitch might not cover it well. Check your stabilizer; you might need heavier stabilizer or multiple layers. Check your tension. Check if your needle is sharp and the right type. A good design file is also key.
* Can I use any fabric for applique? Mostly, yes. But some fabrics are harder than others. Very thin or very stretchy fabrics need more care and the right stabilizer. Fabrics that fray a lot work best with satin stitch or Fray Check if using raw edge.
* Do I have to use fusible web? No, but it makes it much easier. It holds the fabric flat and in place for stitching. Without it, you might need to use temporary spray adhesive or a fabric glue stick to hold the fabric down after placing it. Fusible web also helps with cutting applique fabric neatly.
* Can I pre-cut all my applique shapes? Yes, some people prefer this. You would prepare your fabric with fusible web, trace the shape, cut it out, remove the paper backing, and place it on the base fabric after the placement line stitches. However, the stitch and trim method is often more accurate, as it uses the actual stitched line as the guide for cutting.
* What is the difference between placement line and tack down stitch? The placement line (Step 1) is a guide stitch. It shows where the applique fabric should go. It only stitches on the base fabric. The tack down stitch (Step 3) sews the applique fabric onto the base fabric. It holds it in place for trimming.
Planning Your Applique Project
Thinking ahead helps avoid problems.
* Design Size: Is the design sized correctly for your project? Will it fit in your hoop?
* Fabric Colors: Do the applique fabric colors look good with your base fabric?
* Stitch Type: Do you want satin edge or raw edge? Make sure the design file is made for the type you want. Satin stitch designs have dense borders. Raw edge designs have lighter borders.
* Stabilizer: What type and weight of stabilizer do you need based on your base fabric?
* Placement: Where will the applique go on your item? Mark the center of your design area on your base fabric. This helps you hoop correctly and line up the design on your machine.
Grasping the Process
Think of the machine embroidery applique steps like building a layer cake.
1. Base: Your hooped fabric and stabilizer.
2. Guide: The placement line stitch shows where the next layer goes.
3. Layer: You add the applique fabric piece over the guide.
4. Glue/Hold: The tack down stitch is like the glue, holding the fabric layer down.
5. Shape: You trim the fabric layer to the right shape using the tack down as a guide.
6. Finish: The final stitch (satin or raw edge) covers the edge and makes it look nice.
Each step builds on the one before it. Following the steps in order is important.
Tables for Clarity
Here are a couple of tables to help visualize some choices.
Choosing Stabilizer for Applique
| Base Fabric Type | Fabric Example | Recommended Stabilizer Options | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stable Wovens | Quilting Cotton, Linen | Medium Tear-Away | Provides support during stitching, removes cleanly. |
| Stretchy Knits | T-shirts, Sweatshirts | Medium to Heavy Cut-Away | Stays with fabric for long-term support, prevents stretch. |
| Towels, High Pile | Terry Cloth, Minky | Wash-Away (Film on top, tear/cut away underneath) | Keeps stitches from sinking, removes cleanly from pile. |
| Sheer or Delicate | Organza, Rayon | Wash-Away (Fibrous or Film), Light Cut-Away | Minimizes stiffness, removes or blends invisibly. |
| Hard-to-Hoop Items | Pockets, Cuffs | Sticky Stabilizer (hooped alone) | Item sticks on, no need to hoop awkward shapes. |
Comparing Finishing Stitches
| Stitch Type | Appearance | Edge Coverage | Durability | Stitching Time | Thread Usage | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Satin Stitch Applique | Dense, smooth, shiny border | Full | Very Durable | Longer | More | Finished look, prevents fraying, washables |
| Raw Edge Applique | Lighter line (zigzag, straight, etc.) | Partial (edge shows) | Less Durable (may fray) | Shorter | Less | Casual look, felt, fleece, items not washed often |
Troubleshooting Tips
Even with practice, sometimes things go wrong.
* Problem: Fabric shifts during stitching.
* Fix: Use fusible web or temporary adhesive. Make sure fabric is smoothed down well over the placement line. Hoop fabric and stabilizer very tightly.
* Problem: Thread breaks often.
* Fix: Check your needle; it might be dull or the wrong type. Re-thread your machine (top and bobbin). Check tension. Use quality thread. Slow down the machine speed.
* Problem: Satin stitch is not covering the edge.
* Fix: You might be trimming too far from the tack down line. Cut closer next time. Check your design file; the satin column might be too narrow. Check tension; loose top tension can cause narrow stitches.
* Problem: Fabric gathers or puckers around the design.
* Fix: Not enough stabilizer or wrong type of stabilizer. Hoop is not tight enough. Base fabric might be too thin or stretchy for the design density. Try a heavier stabilizer or an extra layer. Re-hoop, making sure everything is drum-tight.
Caring for Your Applique Projects
You want your beautiful applique to last.
* Washing: Follow the care instructions for your base fabric. For items with satin stitch applique, wash gently. Use cool or warm water. Avoid harsh chemicals like bleach. Turn the item inside out before washing. This protects the stitches from rubbing against other clothes.
* Drying: Air drying is best for items with applique. Heat from a dryer can sometimes cause puckering or shrink the stabilizer. If you must machine dry, use a low heat setting. Again, turn the item inside out.
* Ironing: Iron from the back if possible. Use a pressing cloth on the front. Avoid ironing directly on satin stitches. It can flatten them.
Concluding Thoughts
Machine embroidery applique is a rewarding skill. It lets you create bright, textured designs quickly and easily. By following the machine embroidery applique steps, paying attention to applique fabric preparation, using the right embroidery stabilizer for applique, applying fusible web for machine applique, and mastering cutting applique fabric with the stitch and trim applique method, you can get great results. Practice makes perfect! Try a simple shape first. Then move on to more complex designs. Whether you choose a smooth satin stitch applique edge or a casual raw edge applique embroidery look, your machine applique projects will be unique and special. Happy stitching!