Can you machine quilt using a regular sewing machine? Yes, absolutely! You do not need a special longarm machine to quilt your projects. Most home sewing machines can handle quilting layers of fabric and batting. With a few simple tools and some practice, you can finish your quilts beautifully right at home. This guide will show you how to get started.
Image Source: www.blossomheartquilts.com
Getting Ready to Quilt
Before you start sewing, you need to get your machine and your materials ready. This step is very important for good results.
Setting up Sewing Machine for Quilting
Your regular sewing machine needs a few simple changes to get it ready for quilting.
- Clean Your Machine: Dust and lint can cause problems like skipped stitches or tension issues. Clean out the bobbin area and under the needle plate. Use a small brush to remove lint.
- Use a Fresh Needle: A sharp, new needle makes a big difference. We will talk more about needles soon. Put a new one in before you start quilting a project.
- Check Your Bobbin: Make sure your bobbin is wound evenly. An uneven bobbin can cause tension problems (best tension for machine quilting). Use the same thread in the bobbin as you use on top, or a special bobbin thread.
- Clear Your Space: Make sure you have a large, flat surface around your machine. Quilts can be big and heavy. You need space to support the weight of the quilt so it doesn’t pull on the needle. An extension table for your machine can help a lot.
- Check Your Manual: Look at your sewing machine’s manual. It might have specific tips for quilting or using different feet.
Choosing Needles and Thread for Quilting
The right needle and thread help your machine work smoothly through the quilt layers.
- Needles:
- Use a quilting needle or a topstitch needle. Quilting needles have a sharp, tapered point to go through fabric and batting easily. Topstitch needles have a larger eye for thicker threads and a very sharp point.
- Needle size matters. A size 90/14 or 80/12 is a good start for most cotton fabrics and batting. If you use thicker thread or dense batting, you might need a larger needle (90/14 or 100/16).
- Change your needle often. A dull needle can damage fabric or cause skipped stitches. Change it after quilting one large project or after about 8-10 hours of sewing.
- Thread:
- Cotton thread is popular for quilting because it is natural and strong. 40wt or 50wt cotton thread is common.
- Polyester thread is very strong and has a little stretch. It is also a good choice.
- You can use different colors. Match the thread color to your fabric to hide stitches, or use a contrasting color to make the stitches stand out.
- Avoid cheap, low-quality thread. It can break easily, cause lint buildup, and mess up your tension.
Here is a quick guide for needles and thread:
| Material Being Quilted | Recommended Needle Type | Recommended Needle Size | Recommended Thread Type | Recommended Thread Weight |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton Fabric & Cotton Batting | Quilting or Topstitch | 80/12 or 90/14 | Cotton or Polyester | 40wt or 50wt |
| Cotton Fabric & Polyester Batting | Quilting or Topstitch | 80/12 or 90/14 | Cotton or Polyester | 40wt or 50wt |
| Batiks or Dense Fabrics | Quilting or Topstitch | 90/14 or 100/16 | Strong Cotton or Polyester | 40wt or 50wt |
| Using Thicker Threads (30wt) | Topstitch | 90/14 or 100/16 | Cotton, Polyester, Rayon | 30wt |
Grasping Different Presser Feet
Presser feet help hold your fabric as you sew. Two feet are very helpful for machine quilting on a regular machine.
- Using a walking foot for quilting: This foot is a must-have for straight line quilting. It has its own set of feed dogs on top. These top feed dogs work with the machine’s feed dogs underneath. They help pull all three layers of the quilt (top, batting, backing) through the machine at the same speed. This stops the layers from shifting and prevents puckering. It makes straight lines look very smooth.
- Free motion quilting on domestic machine: For free motion quilting, you need a darning foot or a free motion foot. This foot is different. It does not touch the fabric firmly like a regular foot. It hovers just above the fabric. This allows you to move the quilt sandwich freely in any direction to create curves, loops, or complex designs.
Make sure the presser foot matches your machine model.
Comprehending Batting and Backing
The batting goes in the middle of the quilt sandwich. The backing is the bottom layer.
- Batting: Batting comes in different materials (cotton, polyester, wool, bamboo) and thicknesses (loft).
- Thinner batting (low loft) gives a flatter look. It is easier to machine quilt.
- Thicker batting (high loft) gives a puffier look and makes the quilting stitches stand out more. It can be harder to machine quilt on a regular machine.
- Choose batting that is a few inches larger than your quilt top on all sides. This gives you room to hold and handle the quilt.
- Backing: Your backing fabric should also be a few inches larger than your quilt top. Make sure it is flat and smooth. If you need to piece the backing fabric, use a 1/2-inch seam and press it open to reduce bulk.
Interpreting the Quilt Sandwich
The “quilt sandwich” is the three layers of your quilt put together. It is made of the backing fabric, the batting, and the quilt top. Putting these layers together correctly is a key step before you can start quilting.
Quilting Layers Quilt Sandwich Correctly
Here are the steps to make your quilt sandwich:
- Prepare Your Space: Find a large, flat surface. A big table or even a clean floor works. Make sure it’s clean!
- Lay the Backing: Lay the backing fabric wrong side up on your surface. Make sure it is smooth and flat. Use tape to secure the edges to the surface. This helps keep it from shifting while you build the sandwich. Pull it taut, but do not stretch it out of shape.
- Add the Batting: Carefully lay the batting smoothly on top of the backing fabric. Try not to stretch or pull the batting. Smooth it out with your hands. It should be slightly larger than the backing if you trimmed them the same size earlier.
- Add the Quilt Top: Lay your finished quilt top right side up on top of the batting. Center it so that you have extra batting and backing showing evenly around all four sides. Smooth out your quilt top carefully. Start from the center and move towards the edges to remove any wrinkles or folds.
Now you have your three layers stacked neatly: backing (wrong side up), batting, and quilt top (right side up).
Basting a Quilt for Machine Quilting
Basting is holding the three layers of the quilt sandwich together temporarily. This stops them from shifting or wrinkling while you machine quilt. There are different ways to baste.
- Pin Basting:
- Use special safety pins made for quilting. They are curved, which makes them easier to close.
- Start pinning from the center of the quilt. Work your way out to the edges.
- Place pins about every 4-6 inches (10-15 cm). Place them closer if your design has areas that might shift more, or if you are free motion quilting.
- Put pins close enough to prevent any bubbles or wrinkles in the fabric.
- Make sure you pin through all three layers.
- When you are machine quilting, remove the pins just before your needle reaches them.
- Spray Basting:
- Use a temporary fabric adhesive spray made for quilting. Follow the instructions on the can.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Protect nearby surfaces from overspray.
- Lay the backing flat and smooth. Spray a section of the batting lightly and evenly.
- Lay the quilt top onto the sprayed batting section, smoothing it carefully.
- Lift a section of the quilt top and batting. Spray the next section of batting and smooth the top back down. Work in sections across the whole quilt.
- Spray basting holds the layers very securely but can be more difficult to adjust once placed.
- Thread Basting:
- This involves using a long needle and thread to make loose stitches across the quilt sandwich.
- Use a strong contrasting thread that you can see easily.
- Make long stitches (1-2 inches or 3-5 cm). Space rows of stitches about 4-6 inches apart.
- Thread basting is great for large quilts or quilts you plan to free motion quilt. It creates no bumps for the machine foot to go over.
- Remove the basting stitches after you have finished machine quilting that area.
Choose the basting method that works best for you and your project. For beginners, pin basting is a common and easy way to start.
Learning Machine Quilting Techniques
Now that your quilt sandwich is ready, you can start quilting! There are two main types of machine quilting you can do on a regular machine: straight line quilting and free motion quilting.
Straight Line Quilting with Regular Machine
Straight line quilting means sewing lines or grids across your quilt. This is a great way to start machine quilting.
- Use a Walking Foot: As mentioned before, a walking foot (Using a walking foot for quilting) is your best friend for straight line quilting. It helps feed all layers evenly.
- Marking Lines: You can mark your lines on the quilt top using a fabric marker (one that washes out or disappears). Or, you can use guides.
- Using Guides:
- Many walking feet come with a guide bar. This bar sticks out from the side of the foot. You can set the guide bar to ride along a seam line or a previously stitched line. This helps you stitch lines parallel to each other at a consistent distance without marking every line.
- You can also use painter’s tape or special quilting tape on your quilt top as a guide. Place the tape where you want your stitch line to be. Sew along the edge of the tape. Then move the tape for the next line.
- Stitch Length: Set your stitch length for quilting. A longer stitch length (around 2.5 mm to 3.5 mm or 10 to 8 stitches per inch) is usually good. Too short a stitch can weaken the fabric or batting.
- Sewing: Start sewing slowly. Guide the quilt sandwich gently. Do not push or pull the quilt. Let the walking foot and the machine’s feed dogs move the fabric for you. Just guide the direction.
- Lines and Grids: You can sew simple parallel lines, crosshatch patterns (lines going in both directions to make a grid), or echo the shapes in your quilt blocks.
- Handling the Quilt: How you manage the weight of the quilt is important. Roll up the parts of the quilt that are not under the needle. Hold the rolled part so the weight does not pull on the needle. Use your large workspace to support the quilt.
Straight line quilting gives a clean, modern look. It is also very good at holding the layers together well.
Stitch in the Ditch Quilting Technique
Stitch in the ditch is a type of straight line quilting. It means sewing in the seam lines between your quilt blocks or around appliqued shapes.
- Purpose: Stitch in the ditch helps make your pieced blocks stand out. It pushes the batting down slightly in the seam line, making the parts of the blocks around it puff up a bit.
- Use a Walking Foot: Again, a walking foot is very helpful for stitch in the ditch. It helps you keep the stitch line right in the seam.
- Needle Position: You might need to adjust your needle position slightly to make sure your stitches fall exactly in the ditch (the crease of the seam).
- Sewing: Go slow and steady. Try to keep your stitch line hidden in the seam. Sometimes the stitch will fall slightly to one side or the other. That is okay, especially for a beginner.
- Pressing Seams: How you pressed your seams when making the quilt top can affect stitch in the ditch. Seams pressed to one side often create a clearer “ditch” to stitch in. Seams pressed open are flatter, and it can be harder to find the ditch.
Stitch in the ditch is a great way to add quilting without covering up your piecing design.
Free Motion Quilting on Domestic Machine
Free motion quilting is more flexible. You can draw designs with thread. This technique needs a bit more practice.
- Setting Up:
- You need to lower or cover your machine’s feed dogs. Your machine manual will show you how to do this. When the feed dogs are down, they do not move the fabric. You move the fabric yourself.
- Attach a darning foot or free motion foot. This foot lets you move the fabric freely.
- Stitch Length: Your machine’s stitch length setting does not control the stitch length in free motion quilting. You control the stitch length by how fast you move the fabric and how fast the needle goes up and down (controlled by the foot pedal). Moving the fabric too fast with a slow needle makes long stitches. Moving the fabric too slow with a fast needle makes tiny stitches or stitches that pile up.
- Moving the Quilt: You must move the quilt sandwich smoothly in any direction to create your design. This is why you need the feed dogs down and the special foot.
- Handling the Quilt: The weight of the quilt is a bigger factor here. You need to support the quilt so it moves easily under the needle. Roll or fold the edges. Use gloves designed for machine quilting if you like. They help you grip the fabric better.
- Practice: Free motion quilting takes practice. Start on small quilt sandwiches made from scraps. Practice making simple shapes like loops, swirls, or wavy lines. Learn to move your hands and your foot pedal speed together to make even stitches.
- Designs: You can quilt all-over designs (like stippling or meandering) that cover the whole quilt. Or you can quilt specific designs in blocks or borders.
Free motion quilting lets you add creative texture and patterns to your quilt. It is harder at first than straight line quilting, but it is very rewarding.
Adjusting Machine Settings
Getting the right settings on your machine is important for how your stitches look.
Stitch Length for Quilting
For straight line quilting, as mentioned, a stitch length of 2.5 to 3.5 mm is a good starting point. You want the stitches to be strong enough to hold the layers but not so small that they make too many holes in the fabric and batting.
For free motion quilting, you control the stitch length. Practice moving the fabric and pressing the foot pedal together to get even stitches. Aim for stitches that look similar in length to your straight line stitches.
Best Tension for Machine Quilting
Getting the thread tension right is one of the most common challenges in machine quilting (troubleshooting machine quilting often involves tension). Tension is how tight the threads are on the top and bottom of the fabric.
- Perfect Tension: Perfect tension means the top thread and the bobbin thread meet exactly in the middle of the quilt sandwich, hidden within the batting. On the top of the quilt, you only see the top thread. On the back, you only see the bobbin thread. The stitches look balanced and secure on both sides.
-
Troubleshooting Tension:
- Top thread shows on the back: The top tension is too tight, or the bobbin tension is too loose. Try lowering the top tension dial number.
- Bobbin thread shows on the top: The bobbin tension is too tight, or the top tension is too loose. Try raising the top tension dial number.
- Loops on top: Usually means the top thread is not threaded correctly, or the bobbin is not seated right, or the top tension is zero. Re-thread the machine carefully with the presser foot up. Check the bobbin.
- Loops on bottom: Usually means the bobbin tension is too loose, or the top thread tension is too tight. Adjust top tension first. Check the bobbin.
-
Tips for Setting Tension:
- Always test your tension on a scrap quilt sandwich made of the same fabrics and batting as your real quilt.
- Start with your machine’s normal tension setting (often around 4 or 5).
- Adjust the top tension dial one number at a time. Sew a test line after each change.
- Rarely, you might need to adjust the bobbin tension screw. This is usually not needed and should only be done carefully if you know how. Most tension issues are fixed with the top tension dial.
- Using the right needle and quality thread helps a lot with tension.
Finding the best tension for machine quilting might take a little trial and error on your test sandwich.
Solving Problems and Getting Better
Even with good preparation, you might run into issues. Knowing how to fix them helps a lot. This is part of troubleshooting machine quilting.
Common Machine Quilting Problems and How to Fix Them
Here are some problems you might see and what to do:
| Problem | What It Looks Like | Possible Reason(s) | What to Try |
|---|---|---|---|
| Skipped Stitches | Gaps in your stitch line. | Dull or wrong needle, incorrect threading, machine needs cleaning, incorrect tension. | Change the needle (use a quilting or topstitch needle). Re-thread the machine carefully. Clean your machine. Check your tension. |
| Puckering | Fabric wrinkles or folds appear. | Layers are shifting, basting is not enough, fabric is being pushed/pulled, walking foot not used (for straight lines). | Baste more thoroughly. Do not push or pull the fabric; let the machine feed it (with walking foot) or guide it gently (free motion). Use a walking foot for straight lines. Make sure backing is smooth. |
| Thread Breaking | Thread snaps while sewing. | Poor quality thread, needle eye too small for thread, dull or bent needle, tension too tight, lint buildup. | Use good quality thread. Use a needle with a larger eye (like Topstitch) if using thicker thread. Change the needle. Check tension. Clean your machine. |
| Uneven Stitches | Stitches are long then short (Free Motion). | Speed of fabric movement and needle speed are not matched. | Practice coordinating hand speed and foot pedal speed on a test sandwich. Go slower if needed. |
| Bobbin Thread Showing on Top | Loops or dots of bobbin thread on the quilt top. | Top tension too loose, or bobbin tension too tight. | Increase top tension. Check bobbin winding and how it’s in the case. |
| Top Thread Showing on Back | Loops or dots of top thread on the quilt back. | Top tension too tight, or bobbin tension too loose. | Decrease top tension. Check bobbin winding and how it’s in the case. |
| Machine is Sluggish | Machine struggles to move the fabric. | Batting is too thick, needle is too small, machine needs oiling/servicing, lint buildup. | Use thinner batting or a larger needle. Clean and oil your machine (check manual). |
Practice Makes Better
The best way to get good at machine quilting on your regular machine is to practice.
- Start Small: Do not start with your most important quilt. Practice on smaller projects like placemats, table runners, or practice quilt sandwiches.
- Test Sandwich: Always make a small practice sandwich (backing, batting, top fabric scraps) before starting on your real quilt. Use the same materials. This lets you test your tension (best tension for machine quilting), stitch length, and get a feel for how the layers move.
- Go Slow: Do not rush. Sewing slower gives you more control and results in neater stitches.
- Learn Your Machine: Spend time with your sewing machine. Learn what it can do. Try different feet. Read your manual.
Final Thoughts
Machine quilting on a regular sewing machine is totally possible and very rewarding. It lets you finish your quilts at home and add your own personal touch. Start with simple projects and techniques like straight line quilting with a walking foot. Get comfortable with how your machine handles the quilt sandwich (quilting layers quilt sandwich). Practice free motion quilting on scraps. Don’t be afraid to troubleshoot machine quilting problems as they come up. Choose the right needles and thread for quilting and take time setting up sewing machine for quilting and basting a quilt for machine quilting properly. With patience and practice, you will be machine quilting your own beautiful quilts in no time!