How To Make A Button Hole With A Sewing Machine Guide

Making a buttonhole on a sewing machine might seem tricky at first, but it is a basic skill you can learn. This guide will show you how to make nice buttonholes using your sewing machine. We will cover the tools you need, the steps to follow, and tips for great results. You can make buttonholes that look good and work well for your projects.

Tools You Will Need

To make buttonholes, you need a few things. Your sewing machine is the most important tool. You also need special items for buttonholes.

Your Sewing Machine

Most modern sewing machines can make buttonholes. They might do it in different ways. Some machines make the whole buttonhole by themselves. This is called an automatic buttonhole. Other machines need you to guide them through steps. This is a manual buttonhole. Check your machine’s book to see what it does.

The Right Foot

A special foot helps you sew buttonholes. It is called a sewing machine buttonhole foot. Your machine likely came with one. This foot is different from a regular sewing foot.

Different Kinds of Buttonhole Feet

Manual Foot: This foot is often clear plastic. It might have lines to help you measure. You move the fabric and change stitches as you sew the buttonhole steps.
Automatic Foot: This foot is often larger. It has a part where you put the button you plan to use. The foot measures the button. Then it tells the machine how long to make the buttonhole.

Using the correct sewing machine buttonhole foot is key. It helps your stitches stay even. It also helps make the buttonhole the right size and shape. Make sure you use the foot that came with your machine or one made for your machine.

Fabric and Thread

You need the fabric you are sewing on. You also need thread. Use thread that matches your fabric. Or use thread that makes the buttonhole stand out. Strong thread is good for buttonholes.

Marking Tools

You need a way to mark where the buttonhole will go. A special buttonhole marker pen is helpful. This pen makes marks that disappear later. Chalk or tailor’s tacks also work.

Fabric to Test On

Always test first! Use a scrap piece of the same fabric. This scrap should be treated the same way your main fabric is. For example, if your main fabric has interfacing, your scrap should too. This lets you check your settings. You can make a practice buttonhole sewing sample.

Stabilizer

Fabric can move or stretch when you sew. This is bad for buttonholes. A good buttonhole needs the fabric to be still. Stabilizer for buttonholes helps with this. It is a material you place under your fabric. It can be paper, tear-away material, or iron-on material. Using stabilizer for buttonholes makes a big difference in how nice your buttonholes look.

Small Sharp Scissors or Seam Ripper

You will need to open the buttonhole after you sew it. Small, sharp scissors work well. A seam ripper is also good. Be careful not to cut your stitches!

Getting Ready To Sew

Before you sew the buttonholes on your final project, you need to get ready. This means setting up your machine and testing.

Prepare Your Fabric

Make sure your fabric is ready. If you added interfacing to your project, add it to your test piece too. Interfacing helps make the fabric firm. This is very helpful for buttonholes. Mark where your buttonholes will go. Use your buttonhole marker pen or other tool. Mark the center line and the ends of the buttonhole.

Put the Right Foot On

Turn off your machine. Take off the regular foot. Put on the sewing machine buttonhole foot. Make sure it is snapped on right. Check your machine book if you are unsure.

Set Up Your Machine

Plug in your machine. Turn it on. Select the buttonhole stitch. Your machine dial or screen will show a picture of a buttonhole.

Adjust Stitch Settings

You need the right buttonhole stitch settings. Look in your machine book. It will suggest settings for buttonholes. These settings control how wide the stitches are. They also control how close together the stitches are. This is the stitch length or density.

Key Stitch Settings

Stitch Type: Choose the buttonhole stitch.
Stitch Width: This sets how wide the sides of the buttonhole are. A common setting is around 2.5 to 3.5 mm.
Stitch Length/Density: This sets how close the stitches are. For buttonholes, you want stitches very close together. This makes a satin stitch look. A small number here means stitches are close. A setting like 0.4 to 0.7 is common.
Tension: Thread tension needs to be right. The stitches should look the same on the top and bottom of the fabric. Check your book for the right tension number for buttonholes.

Write down the buttonhole stitch settings that work for your fabric. You will use them for all buttonholes on that project.

The Practice Test

This is very important. Take your scrap fabric. Add stabilizer for buttonholes under it. Draw a buttonhole mark on top. Use the button you will use on your project.

Steps for Practice

Mark the buttonhole on the scrap fabric.
Place stabilizer for buttonholes under the fabric.
Attach the correct sewing machine buttonhole foot.
Set your machine to the buttonhole stitch.
Adjust the buttonhole stitch settings.
Place the fabric under the foot. Line up the mark.
Sew the practice buttonhole.
Look at the practice buttonhole. Is it the right size? Do the stitches look good?
Check the tension.
Try opening it.

Make changes to your buttonhole stitch settings if needed. Then do another practice test. Keep practicing until it looks right. This practice buttonhole sewing saves you from problems on your real project.

Making the Buttonhole – Automatic Method

Many newer machines have an automatic way to make buttonholes. This makes sewing them fast and easy. Your machine does most of the work.

Setting Up for Automatic

Get your button. This is the button you will use on your finished item.
Find the automatic sewing machine buttonhole foot.
On the back of this foot, there is often a slider or a space. Put your button into this space. The foot measures the button’s size.
Attach the foot to your machine.
Select the automatic buttonhole stitch on your machine.
Lower the buttonhole lever. This lever tells the machine it is making a buttonhole. It needs to be down for the machine to know when to stop. Check your machine book to find this lever and how to lower it.
Prepare your fabric. Mark the center line where the buttonhole will go. Make sure stabilizer for buttonholes is under your fabric.

The Automatic Buttonhole Setup

Now you are ready to sew.
1. Place your fabric under the foot.
2. Line up the center mark on your fabric with the center guide on the foot.
3. The starting point of the buttonhole needs to be lined up with the needle. Most machines start at the back of the buttonhole and sew forward. Check your machine book for where to start.
4. Lower the presser foot.
5. Make sure the buttonhole lever is down.
6. Start sewing slowly. The machine will sew one side of the buttonhole.
7. It will stop, sew the bar tack at the end, sew the second side back, sew the bar tack at the start, and then stop.
8. It knows when to stop because of the buttonhole foot and the lever.

This automatic buttonhole setup makes buttonholes the perfect size for your button. It is a great feature that saves time.

Making the Buttonhole – Manual Method

Some machines need you to help them sew buttonholes. You tell the machine when to sew each part. This is the manual method. It often uses a different buttonhole foot, sometimes a clear one with red lines.

Steps for Manual Buttonholes

Manual buttonholes usually have four steps. You sew one step, then the next, and so on. Your machine will have stitch settings for each step.

Step 1: First Side: Select the stitch for the first side. This is a zig-zag stitch that sews down one side of the buttonhole. Line up your fabric mark under the foot. Sew forward the length you need. Stop at the end mark you made.
Step 2: End Bar Tack: Select the stitch for the end bar tack. This is a wide, tight zig-zag stitch. Sew a few stitches across the end of the first side you just made. This closes the end. Stop.
Step 3: Second Side: Select the stitch for the second side. This is another zig-zag stitch. It sews back down the other side of the buttonhole. Line up your fabric so this stitch is parallel to the first side. Sew back to the start mark. Stop.
Step 4: Start Bar Tack: Select the stitch for the start bar tack. Sew a few wide, tight zig-zag stitches across the start of the buttonhole. This closes the start. Stop.

This covers the basic manual buttonhole steps. You control the length of the sides and the width of the bar tacks by how long you sew in each step.

Tips for Manual Method

Mark your buttonhole length carefully.
Sew slowly and guide the fabric straight.
Make sure the two sides are parallel.
Make the bar tacks the same width as the zig-zag sides.

Practice buttonhole sewing is extra important for the manual method. It helps you get the steps right and make even buttonholes.

Buttonhole Stitch Settings in Detail

Getting the right buttonhole stitch settings is vital for nice buttonholes. Let’s look closer.

Stitch Length

For buttonholes, the stitch length is very small. This makes the stitches pack closely together. This creates a satin stitch look. It covers the fabric edge well. A setting like 0.5 means the machine moves forward only half a millimeter for each stitch. If the stitch length is too big, the stitches will be far apart. The fabric will show through. If it’s too small, the machine might stay in one place and make a big thread lump.

Stitch Width

This setting controls how wide the zig-zag stitches are. It affects the width of the buttonhole sides and the bar tacks. You want the width to be enough to cover the raw edge of the fabric inside the buttonhole. It also needs to look good for your button size. Too wide, and the buttonhole might look messy. Too narrow, and the stitches might not cover the fabric edge.

Tension

Correct tension is key for any stitch. For buttonholes, you want the bobbin thread to pull the top thread slightly to the underside. The stitches should look balanced. If the top tension is too tight, the bobbin thread will show on top. If it’s too loose, the top thread will lie flat on top. Check your machine book for tension advice for buttonholes. Often, a slightly looser top tension than normal sewing might work.

Machine Specifics

Every machine is different. Always look at your machine’s guide book. It will show you the buttonhole stitch symbol. It will give suggested buttonhole stitch settings for that machine. Use these as a starting point. Then adjust based on your fabric during practice buttonhole sewing.

Using Stabilizer for Buttonholes

Why is stabilizer for buttonholes so important? Fabric needs support when dense stitches are sewn on it. Without stabilizer, the fabric can:

Pucker (get wrinkly)
Stretch out of shape
Get pushed down into the machine hole

Stabilizer for buttonholes provides a firm base. This lets the machine’s feed dogs move the fabric smoothly. It lets the needle sew the dense stitches without pulling the fabric out of shape.

Types of Stabilizer

Tear-Away: This looks like thick paper. You sew with it under the fabric. After sewing, you gently tear it away from the stitches.
Cut-Away: This is more like a soft cloth. You sew with it under the fabric. After sewing, you cut away the extra stabilizer close to the stitches. You leave a bit behind the buttonhole. This is good for stretchy fabrics.
Iron-On (Fusible): This has glue on one side. You iron it onto the back of your fabric before sewing. It stays with the fabric. This is very good as it becomes one with the fabric layer.

Using stabilizer for buttonholes, no matter the type, will make your buttonholes look much cleaner and more professional. Cut a piece slightly bigger than your buttonhole area. Place it on the wrong side of the fabric, under where you marked the buttonhole.

Marking Buttonhole Placement

Accurate marking is needed so your buttonholes are in the right place and size.

Where to Mark

Buttonholes are usually placed on the front of a shirt or jacket. For women’s clothes, they are on the right front. For men’s, they are on the left front. Mark the center line of the buttonhole. Mark the top and bottom ends. The length from top to bottom should be slightly bigger than your button’s diameter. Add a little extra room for the button to pass through. An easy rule is button diameter + button thickness = buttonhole length. Mark the position of the buttonhole, usually centered on the placket.

Using a Buttonhole Marker Pen

A buttonhole marker pen is a great tool. These pens often have ink that disappears with water, heat (iron), or air. Mark the center line and the end points clearly on the right side of your fabric.

Other Marking Methods

Tailor’s Chalk: Easy to use, brushes away.
Marking Wheel and Paper: Can make a dotted line.
Tailor’s Tacks: Thread loops marking points.

Choose a method that is easy to see on your fabric but will go away later. Use a ruler to keep your marks straight and evenly spaced. This marking step is crucial before you start sewing your practice buttonhole sewing or the real ones.

Practice Buttonhole Sewing Makes Perfect

We talked about practicing already. It is so important it needs its own section. Think of it like a musician practicing scales.

Why Practice?

Every machine is different.
Every fabric is different.
Settings that work on one fabric might not work on another.
It helps you get comfortable with the steps (especially manual).
It lets you check size and look before sewing on your project.

How to Practice Well

Use a scrap piece of the exact fabric you will use. Include all layers, like interfacing or lining, that will be in the final buttonhole area. Use the same stabilizer for buttonholes. Draw the same marks. Use the same button to check size (if using automatic foot). Sew several practice buttonhole sewing samples. Try sewing both horizontal and vertical buttonholes if your project needs them. Check the look, feel, and size of each practice buttonhole. Make small changes to your buttonhole stitch settings and try again until you are happy. This step prevents disappointment later.

How To Open A Buttonhole Safely

Once the buttonhole is sewn, you need to cut it open. This lets the button pass through. This step is easy to mess up, so be careful.

Steps to Open

Finish sewing all your buttonholes.
Place the buttonhole flat on a hard surface. You can use a cutting mat or a piece of cardboard inside the garment area. This stops you from cutting through both layers of fabric.
Get your small, sharp scissors or seam ripper.
For a seam ripper: Insert the point carefully into the fabric between the two rows of stitches. Start at one end of the buttonhole. Push the ripper gently along the center line towards the other end. Stop before you reach the end bar tack.
Alternatively, start from the middle and push towards one end. Then start from the middle again and push towards the other end. This stops you from cutting too far and snipping the bar tack stitches.
For small scissors: Fold the buttonhole slightly along the center line. Make a tiny snip just big enough to get the scissor tip in. Then cut carefully along the center line towards the bar tacks. Stop cutting before you reach the stitches holding the buttonhole together.

Using a Pin

A good trick is to place a pin across each end of the buttonhole before you cut. Put the pin right at the base of the bar tack stitches. When you push the seam ripper or scissors towards the pin, the tool hits the pin and stops. This helps prevent you from cutting into your precious bar tack stitches. This is a very helpful tip on how to open a buttonhole without cutting too far.

Take your time when learning how to open a buttonhole. A mistake here can ruin the buttonhole and maybe the garment.

Troubleshooting Sewing Machine Buttonholes

Sometimes buttonholes don’t turn out right. Don’t worry, this is common. Here are some problems and what to do. This is about troubleshooting sewing machine buttonholes.

Problem 1: Stitches are gappy or loose.

Reason: Stitch length is too long, or tension is too loose.
Fix: Decrease the stitch length (make it smaller). This puts stitches closer. Adjust tension, maybe make the top tension a bit tighter or the bobbin tension looser (check your book first!). Make sure the machine is threaded right.

Problem 2: Fabric is puckering or pulling.

Reason: No stabilizer or wrong type of stabilizer. Tension might be too tight. Fabric is too thin or stretchy.
Fix: Use stabilizer for buttonholes. Use a cut-away or iron-on stabilizer for stretchy fabrics. Try loosening the top tension slightly. Sew slower.

Problem 3: Buttonhole is not the right size (Automatic).

Reason: Button not in the foot correctly. Buttonhole lever not down.
Fix: Check the button is fully in the back of the automatic sewing machine buttonhole foot. Make sure the buttonhole lever is fully lowered before you start sewing.

Problem 4: Buttonhole sides are not parallel (Manual).

Reason: Fabric was not guided straight. Marks were not straight.
Fix: Mark carefully with a ruler. Guide the fabric slowly and keep your eye on the lines on the foot. Practice helps a lot here.

Problem 5: Bar tacks are messy or too big/small (Manual).

Reason: Sewed too many stitches for the bar tack. Stitch width was wrong.
Fix: Only sew a few stitches (maybe 4-6) for the bar tack. Adjust stitch width to match the buttonhole sides. Practice helps you see how many stitches are enough.

Problem 6: Fabric is feeding poorly.

Reason: No stabilizer, or fabric is sticking. Feed dogs not working right.
Fix: Use stabilizer for buttonholes. Place tissue paper under the fabric if it’s sticking (tear away after). Clean lint from feed dogs area. Check feed dogs are up.

These are common issues when troubleshooting sewing machine buttonholes. Testing on scrap fabric helps find these problems before they happen on your project.

Keyhole Buttonhole Sewing

Most buttonholes are a simple rectangle shape with bar tacks at each end. But for thicker fabrics or larger buttons, especially on coats or jeans, you might use a keyhole buttonhole.

What is a Keyhole Buttonhole?

A keyhole buttonhole looks like a rectangle on one end and has a round “eye” at the other end. The bar tack is at the rectangular end. The round eye is where the button rests. The straight part is the slot the button slides through. The eye gives extra space for the button thickness.

How to Sew a Keyhole Buttonhole

Not all machines can do a keyhole buttonhole. Check your machine’s stitches. If it has one, it will have a special stitch setting.

Select the keyhole buttonhole stitch.
Attach the correct foot (usually the automatic buttonhole foot).
Place your button in the back of the foot (if automatic).
Prepare your fabric with marks and stabilizer for buttonholes.
Place fabric under the foot. Line up your marks.
Lower the buttonhole lever.
Sew. The machine will sew the keyhole shape. It usually starts by sewing the eye, then the straight sides, and finally the bar tack at the end of the straight part.

Keyhole buttonhole sewing is mostly automatic if your machine has the stitch. Mark the fabric carefully to place the eye correctly. The eye is usually placed right where the button will sit.

Putting It All Together: Steps for Success

Here is a summary of the best way to make buttonholes with your machine.

Prepare: Finish sewing your garment parts. Apply interfacing if needed.
Mark: Mark the exact position and size of each buttonhole on the fabric’s right side. Use a buttonhole marker pen or other tool.
Stabilize: Place stabilizer for buttonholes under the fabric where the buttonhole will be. Cut it slightly larger than the buttonhole area.
Setup: Attach the sewing machine buttonhole foot. If using automatic, put your button in the foot’s holder. Lower the buttonhole lever.
Settings: Select the buttonhole stitch. Check or set the buttonhole stitch settings (width, length/density).
Practice: Sew at least one practice buttonhole sewing sample on scrap fabric. Check the look, size, and settings. Adjust as needed.
Sew: Place your project fabric under the foot. Line up your marks with the foot guides. Sew the buttonhole (automatic or manual manual buttonhole steps).
Repeat: Sew all the buttonholes needed on your project.
Open: Carefully open each buttonhole using small scissors or a seam ripper. Use the pin trick to protect the bar tacks. Learn how to open a buttonhole safely before you start cutting.
Finish: Remove any leftover stabilizer. Press the buttonholes gently.

Using this step-by-step approach helps ensure you make nice buttonholes every time. Remember that troubleshooting sewing machine buttonholes is part of the process. Be patient and try again if they are not perfect at first.

Table of Common Settings (Example)

These are general ideas. Always check your machine book.

Setting Type	Purpose	Common Range (Example)	Notes
Stitch Type	Choose buttonhole stitch	Buttonhole icon	Found on dial or screen
Stitch Width	Width of buttonhole sides	2.5 – 3.5 mm	Wider for thicker threads or bold look
Stitch Length/Density	How close stitches are	0.4 – 0.7 mm	Smaller number means stitches closer
Tension (Top)	Balance top and bobbin thread	Varies by machine	Often slightly looser than straight stitch
Buttonhole Foot	Guides the stitching	Specific Foot	Use the foot for your machine/method
Stabilizer	Supports fabric	Tear-away, Cut-away, etc.	Use appropriate type for fabric

These settings work together. Small changes can make a big difference. Always test them out.

More Tips for Great Buttonholes

Always sew buttonholes before sewing buttons on.
Match thread color to your project or use a fun contrast color.
Use good quality thread. Cheap thread can break or make messy stitches.
Sew buttonholes from the top of the garment down. This keeps them aligned.
Buttonholes are usually vertical on shirt fronts and horizontal on cuffs or waistbands. Check pattern instructions.
For thick fabrics or layers, use extra stabilizer. Consider keyhole buttonhole sewing for large buttons.
Clean your machine before sewing buttonholes. Lint can mess up stitches.

Making buttonholes is a skill that gets better with practice. The more you make, the easier and nicer they will become. Use the tools like the sewing machine buttonhole foot and buttonhole marker pen. Don’t skip the practice buttonhole sewing. With patience, you will master it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my sewing machine skip stitches on buttonholes?

Skipped stitches can happen for a few reasons. Check that your needle is new and sharp. Make sure the needle is put in correctly. Is it the right type for your fabric? Are you using stabilizer for buttonholes? Stabilizer helps the fabric feed better. Check your tension settings too.

Can I make a buttonhole without a special foot?

It is very hard to make a good buttonhole without the right sewing machine buttonhole foot. The foot helps guide the fabric and keep the stitch lines straight and even. While some very old machines might have relied just on guiding, modern machines are designed to use the buttonhole foot for best results. Get the correct foot for your machine.

How do I know what size buttonhole to make?

If you use an automatic sewing machine buttonhole foot with a button holder, it measures the button for you. If doing it manually, the buttonhole length should be the diameter (width) of your button plus its thickness. Roll the button up. How much space does it take? That’s how long the buttonhole slot needs to be. Mark this length on your fabric using a buttonhole marker pen.

What if my buttonholes are not all the same size?

This happens more with the manual method. Careful marking is key. Measure each buttonhole marking on your fabric before sewing. When sewing the manual manual buttonhole steps, watch your marks carefully and stop sewing each side when you reach the end mark. For automatic buttonholes, make sure the buttonhole lever is down and the button is seated correctly in the foot for each one. Practice buttonhole sewing helps get your manual steps consistent.

My stitches are too dense or not dense enough.

This is about the stitch length setting. A smaller number means denser stitches (closer together). A larger number means stitches are further apart. Adjust the stitch length setting on your machine until the stitches look like a smooth, solid line (a satin stitch). Use practice buttonhole sewing to find the right setting for your fabric and thread.

The fabric bunches up when I sew buttonholes.

This is a classic sign that you need stabilizer for buttonholes. The dense stitches pull the fabric together. Stabilizer holds the fabric flat and stable while you sew. Make sure the stabilizer is under the fabric layer(s) where you are sewing the buttonhole.

How do I open a keyhole buttonhole?

For a keyhole buttonhole sewing, you still cut between the two stitch lines like a regular buttonhole. Cut from the bar tack end up to where the round eye begins. Do not cut into the eye stitches. The eye part stays whole; the button just pops into that round space after going through the cut slot. Use the pin trick near the bar tack to stop cutting too far.

What should I do if my machine jams when sewing buttonholes?

This can happen with very dense stitches. Stop sewing right away. Carefully lift the presser foot. Gently pull the fabric out. Cut the threads. Check for tangled threads under the fabric or around the needle. Clean the bobbin area. Re-thread the machine completely. Check your buttonhole stitch settings, especially stitch length. Make sure you used stabilizer for buttonholes. Sew slower. Sometimes the fabric is just too thick or layered for the machine; adding more stabilizer or trying a different needle can help. Troubleshooting sewing machine buttonholes jams takes patience.

This guide should help you start making great buttonholes. Remember to practice and be patient with yourself as you learn. Happy sewing!