Learn How To Make A Sewing Pattern Fast & Simple

Do you want to sew clothes that fit you just right? Do you dream of making unique outfits nobody else has? Pattern making is how you create the paper guide for sewing clothes. It lets you design and make clothes exactly as you want them. Yes, you absolutely can make your own sewing patterns! It might seem tricky, but with simple steps, you can learn to create guides for any sewing project you imagine. This guide will show you how to get started.

How To Make A Sewing Pattern
Image Source: camimade.com

Why Craft Your Own Patterns?

Making your own patterns is a fun skill. It opens up many possibilities for sewing.

Crafting Custom Clothes

Store-bought patterns come in standard sizes. People’s bodies are not standard. Your shoulders might be one size, and your hips another. Making a pattern lets you fit your exact body shape. You get custom sewing patterns that fit you perfectly. This makes your finished clothes look better and feel more comfortable.

Design Unique Styles

Maybe you saw a dress you loved but want to change the sleeves. Or you have a new idea for a jacket. With pattern making, you are the designer. You can mix and match ideas. You can create clothes nobody else has. This is the heart of sewing pattern design. You bring your fashion ideas to life.

What You Need to Start

You need a few things to start making patterns. Don’t worry, you likely have some already.

Basic Tools List

Here are the tools you will need:

Tape Measure: For taking body measurements.
Rulers: A straight ruler and a curved ruler are helpful. A clear ruler is best.
Pencils: Use a regular pencil or a mechanical pencil.
Eraser: Mistakes happen!
Scissors: Paper scissors, not fabric scissors.
Tape: Regular clear tape.
Pattern Paper: Large paper to draw on. See more below.
Tracing Wheel: For transferring marks.
Weights: To hold the pattern paper still.
Notebook: To write down measurements and notes.

About Pattern Paper

You need paper that is wide enough to draw large shapes. Using pattern paper is key.

Types: Craft paper rolls, medical exam table paper, or special pattern paper work well.
Why Use It?: It’s cheaper than fabric. You can draw, erase, and tape it easily. It’s the blueprint for your garment.

The Starting Point: The Sloper

Think of a sloper pattern as a basic body map. It’s a plain pattern with no style built-in. It fits your body closely but is not tight. You make slopers for different body parts:
* Bodice (top part)
* Sleeve
* Skirt
* Pants

These slopers are your foundation. You use them to create any design you want. It’s like having a basic shape you can change.

Why a Sloper Is Important

A sloper is your starting point for pattern drafting. It gives you the correct fit for your body measurements. Once you have a good sloper, designing new clothes becomes much easier. You don’t start from scratch every time.

How to Measure Your Body

Getting the right measurements is super important. It makes sure your pattern fits. You need a friend to help you measure for the best results. Wear clothes that fit you well, not too loose or too tight.

Taking Key Measurements

You will need several measurements. Write them all down in your notebook.

Bust: Around the fullest part of your chest.
Waist: Around the narrowest part of your body.
Hips: Around the fullest part below your waist.
Shoulder to Waist: From the top of your shoulder down to your waist.
Back Width: Across your back, between your armholes.
Chest Width: Across your front, between your armholes.
Shoulder Length: From the base of your neck to your shoulder bone.
Arm Length: From your shoulder bone down to your wrist (with a slightly bent elbow).
Bicep: Around the fullest part of your upper arm.
Waist to Hip: From your waist down to your hip measurement line.
Waist to Floor: From your waist down to the floor (for pants/skirts).
Inseam: From your crotch down to your ankle (for pants).

This is just a basic list. Different designs might need more measurements. Measure for sewing pattern carefully and write down each number.

Tips for Measuring

Stand up straight but relaxed.
Don’t pull the tape measure too tight.
Keep the tape level around your body.
Measure twice to be sure.

Drawing Your First Patterns (Pattern Drafting)

Now you use your measurements to draw shapes on the paper. This is called pattern drafting. You will start with simple shapes to create your slopers.

Drafting a Basic Bodice Sloper

Let’s think about a simple bodice. You need front and back pieces.

Start with a rectangle: Use your bust and length measurements.
Mark key points: Mark your waist, hip, and shoulder points based on measurements.
Add ease: Clothes need a little extra room to move. This is called ease. Add a small amount to your measurements before drawing.
Shape the lines: Connect the points. Draw the neckline, armhole, shoulder line, and side seams. Use curved rulers for curves like the armhole.
Add darts: Darts are folds sewn into the fabric. They shape the flat fabric to your body’s curves (like the bust and waist). Mark where your darts should go based on body points.

This is a very simplified view. Full pattern drafting for a sloper involves specific formulas and lines based on body points. There are many guides and books that show the exact steps for drafting a sloper from measurements. Learning these pattern making techniques takes practice.

Drafting Other Slopers

You follow similar ideas for other parts:

Skirt Sloper: Based on waist and hip measurements. Simple shape with darts or gathers at the waist.
Pants Sloper: More complex. Uses waist, hip, inseam, rise (crotch depth) measurements. Needs shaping for the seat and legs.
Sleeve Sloper: Based on arm length and bicep size. Needs shaping for the armhole curve.

Working with Your Paper Patterns

Once you have drawn your pattern pieces, they are your template. Using pattern paper correctly makes sewing easier.

Cutting Out the Pieces

Cut carefully along the lines you drew. These paper pieces are now your pattern.

Adding Details

Your basic pattern only has the main lines. You need to add more info for sewing.

Seam Allowance: This is the extra fabric you need to sew seams. You add this line outside the main pattern line. A common amount is 5/8 inch or 1.5 cm.
Hem Allowance: Extra paper at the bottom for folding up the hem.
Grainline: A long arrow showing which way to place the pattern on the fabric. This is important for how the fabric hangs.
Notches: Small marks on the edges. They help match up pieces when sewing.
Pattern Name: Write what the pattern is (e.g., “Bodice Front”).
Size: Write the size (your measurements).
Number of Pieces to Cut: How many of this shape you need from fabric.

Table: Common Allowances

Part	Seam Allowance (Typical)	Hem Allowance (Typical)
Side Seams	5/8 inch (1.5 cm)	—
Shoulder Seams	5/8 inch (1.5 cm)	—
Armholes	1/2 inch (1.2 cm)	—
Necklines	1/2 inch (1.2 cm)	—
Bottom Hem	1-3 inches (2.5-7.5 cm)	—

Note: These are common amounts. Some patterns use less, like 1/4 inch for knits.

Creating Designs from Your Sloper

Now for the fun part: turning your basic sloper pattern into a new design. This is where sewing pattern design really happens. You change your sloper using simple moves.

Simple Pattern Changes

Changing the Neckline: Draw a new shape (round, V-neck, square) onto your bodice sloper.
Changing the Hem: Draw a curved or uneven hemline on your skirt or bodice.
Adding Fullness: Slash the pattern piece and spread it apart to add gathers or pleats. This changes a fitted skirt to a gathered skirt.
Moving Darts: You can shift where the dart is placed. For example, moving a waist dart up to the shoulder. This is a key pattern making technique.
Adding Style Lines: Cut the pattern piece along a line and add a seam there. This is used for princess seams or other design lines.

Examples of Design Changes

To make a simple A-line skirt from a straight skirt sloper: Add width to the hem of the skirt pattern.
To make a puffed sleeve from a basic sleeve sloper: Slash the sleeve cap area and spread the pieces to add fullness.
To make a different neckline on a bodice: Draw the new neckline shape onto the sloper front piece.

Every design change is based on moving or adding paper to your sloper. This is how you create a custom sewing pattern for your specific idea.

Testing the Fit: The Muslin

Before you cut your good fabric, you must test your pattern. You do this by making a test garment. It’s called a muslin fitting.

What is a Muslin?

A muslin is a simple version of your garment. You sew it from cheap fabric, usually plain cotton or actual muslin fabric. You don’t worry about finishing edges or details. You just sew the main seams.

Why Make a Muslin?

Check the fit: Does it pull anywhere? Is it too tight or too loose?
Check the shape: Does the design look right on your body?
Find mistakes: Did you draw something wrong?
Plan construction: How will the pieces go together?

A muslin lets you find problems before you cut your expensive fabric. It saves you time and money in the long run.

The Fitting Process

Put on the muslin. Look in a mirror.
* Does it fit your shoulders?
* Is the waist in the right spot?
* Are the armholes comfortable?
* How do the darts look?

Have your friend help pin areas that need changing. You can pinch out extra fabric or mark areas where you need more room.

Making Pattern Adjustments

Based on your muslin fitting, you will need to change your paper pattern. This is called sewing pattern adjustments.

Common Adjustments

Adding or Removing Width: If the muslin is too tight, cut the pattern and add paper. If it’s too loose, fold out the extra paper. Do this at the side seams, center front/back, or specific body areas.
Changing Length: Shorten or lengthen pieces at marked lines on the pattern. Pants often need this.
Adjusting Darts: Make darts bigger or smaller. Change their position or angle.
Fitting the Shoulder: Adjust the shoulder seam length or angle if it doesn’t sit right.
Adjusting Armholes: Make them bigger or smaller if needed.

You make these changes directly to your paper pattern. Then, trace the corrected pattern piece onto new paper. Always keep your original sloper safe!

How to Make an Adjustment

Let’s say your bodice is too tight across the back.

Find the back pattern piece.
Draw a line across the back where it is tight.
Cut along this line, stopping before the edge (leaving a small hinge).
Spread the piece open the amount you need. Tape paper under the gap.
Smooth out the cutting line edges.

This is a common pattern making technique for adding fullness. There are specific ways to make many different sewing pattern adjustments. Learning these techniques is part of mastering pattern making.

Exploring Pattern Grading

What if you want to make your custom pattern in different sizes? This is called pattern grading. You take a pattern in one size and make it bigger or smaller while keeping the same shape.

How Grading Works

Grading uses specific rules and measurements to change the size. You add or remove set amounts from the edges and key points of the pattern pieces.

Adding for bigger sizes: You add more width and length.
Removing for smaller sizes: You remove width and length.

The amount you add or remove depends on the difference between sizes. There are standard grading rules for commercial patterns. When you grade your own pattern, you can use these rules or make your own based on your body’s size changes.

Why Grade Your Own Pattern?

Share your designs: Make clothes for friends or family.
Sell your patterns: If you create great designs, you might want to sell them.
Make clothes for growing kids: Adjust patterns as they grow.

Pattern grading is a more advanced pattern making technique. It requires careful measuring and understanding of how the pattern pieces change size.

Different Pattern Making Techniques

There are a few main ways to create patterns. We’ve focused on one, but it’s good to know about others. These are different pattern making techniques.

Flat Pattern Making

This is the method we’ve discussed. You start with measurements and draw the pattern on flat paper. You use math and formulas to shape the pattern pieces. Starting with slopers is a key part of flat pattern making. This is great for creating detailed, precise patterns.

Draping

Draping is different. You work with fabric directly on a dress form (a body shape). You pin and shape the fabric on the form to create the design. Then, you take the fabric off and use it as a pattern to make paper copies. Draping is good for fluid designs or styles that are hard to draw flat. It requires a dress form and understanding how fabric hangs.

Using Software

Today, many designers use computer programs. They draw patterns on a screen. The software can often grade patterns automatically. This is called CAD (Computer-Aided Design). This is a modern pattern making technique. It requires special software and a computer.

Most home sewers start with flat pattern making. It uses simple tools and helps you learn the basic ideas of how patterns work.

Putting It All Together: Making Your First Custom Pattern

You now have the basic steps. Let’s review the process to make a custom sewing pattern for a simple garment like a skirt.

Measure: Get accurate waist and hip measurements. Measure for sewing pattern carefully.
Draft Sloper: Use your measurements and a guide to draft a basic skirt sloper pattern on pattern paper. Add seam allowance and other marks.
Design: Decide on your skirt design (e.g., A-line). Change your sloper pattern using pattern making techniques like adding width to the hem. This is your sewing pattern design.
Cut Muslin: Cut your test fabric using the pattern pieces.
Sew Muslin: Sew the main seams of the muslin skirt.
Fit Muslin: Try on the muslin. Pin areas needing changes during the muslin fitting.
Adjust Pattern: Make sewing pattern adjustments to your paper pattern based on the muslin fit. Trace the improved pattern.
Cut Fabric: Use your final, adjusted pattern to cut your good fabric.
Sew Garment: Sew your actual skirt!

This process might seem long, but each step is important for getting a good result.

Tips for Success

Start Simple: Don’t try to make a complex jacket as your first pattern. Begin with a simple skirt, top, or pants.
Use Resources: Get good books or online courses on pattern drafting and pattern making techniques. They have step-by-step guides and formulas.
Practice: The more you make patterns, the better you get.
Label Everything: Write on your pattern pieces clearly.
Keep Your Slopers: Once you have good-fitting slopers, save them. They are valuable tools.
Don’t Fear Mistakes: Everyone makes mistakes when learning. Just fix the pattern and try again. The muslin fitting helps catch errors early.
Fit Matters Most: A well-fitting garment looks great. Focus on getting the fit right with your sewing pattern adjustments.

Practice Makes Perfect

Learning pattern making takes time and effort. Don’t expect perfect results right away. Each project will teach you something new about pattern drafting and sewing pattern design. Working with your sloper pattern and doing muslin fitting will build your skills. You will learn how different pattern making techniques affect the fit and look of the garment. Soon, you will be able to create any custom sewing patterns you wish!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

h4 How long does it take to learn pattern making?

It takes practice. You can learn the basics in a few weeks or months. Becoming an expert takes years. Start with simple projects and build your skills over time.

h4 Do I need a dress form for pattern making?

No, you do not need a dress form to start. You can do flat pattern making using your body measurements. A dress form is helpful for draping and checking how fabric hangs, but it’s not required for basic pattern drafting.

h4 What is ease?

Ease is extra space in a garment. It lets you move and breathe. There are two types:
* Wearing ease: The minimum needed to move comfortably.
* Design ease: Extra room added for style (e.g., a loose-fitting dress).

You must add ease when you measure for sewing pattern and draft your pattern.

h4 Can I trace existing clothes to make a pattern?

Yes, you can trace clothes you own. This is a quick way to get a basic shape. However, it’s not true pattern drafting. The traced pattern might not be perfectly balanced. It can be a good starting point, but you will likely need to make adjustments.

h4 Is pattern grading hard?

Pattern grading requires precise changes. It uses set rules. It can be challenging at first but becomes easier with practice. There are books and tools to help you learn grading techniques.

Conclusion

Making your own sewing patterns gives you amazing freedom in sewing. You can create clothes that fit you perfectly and match your unique style. Start with simple steps, learn the basics of pattern drafting, and use a sloper pattern as your base. Don’t skip the muslin fitting step and learn how to make sewing pattern adjustments. With practice and patience, you will master these pattern making techniques and enjoy the reward of sewing with custom sewing patterns you made yourself! Grab your pattern paper and tools, and start creating!