Guide: How To Make Patches On Embroidery Machine Step-by-Step

Want to make cool patches using your embroidery machine? You totally can! Making machine embroidered patches at home is a fun and rewarding project. This guide will walk you through everything, step by step, so you can create awesome DIY embroidery patches. We’ll cover what you need, how to get your design ready, how to stitch it out, and how to finish it off. Get ready to turn fabric and thread into custom patches!

How To Make Patches On Embroidery Machine
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Getting Your Stuff Together

Before you start making machine embroidered patches, you need the right materials and tools. Having everything ready makes the job much easier.

What You Need

Let’s list the main things you will need for this embroidery machine patch tutorial.

Embroidery Machine: Of course! Any machine that can do embroidery will work.
Patch Base Material: This is the fabric your design stitches onto. Strong, stable fabric works best. Think twill, felt, canvas, or even special patch material.
Embroidery Patch Stabilizer: This is super important! It holds the fabric still while the machine stitches. Without it, your stitches can look messy or the fabric can bunch up.
Embroidery Thread: Use good quality embroidery thread. Polyester or rayon threads are common choices. Pick the colors for your design.
Embroidery Needles: Use a needle that is good for embroidery and matches your thread type. Size 75/11 or 80/12 are common.
Hoops: Your machine’s embroidery hoops. Make sure they fit your design size.
Sharp Scissors: You will need these to cut out the patch later. Small, sharp embroidery scissors are good for getting close to the stitching.
Embroidery Design File: This is the picture or words you want on your patch. It needs to be in a format your machine can read (like .DST, .PES, .JEF, etc.).
Embroidery Patch Backing (Optional): This is what makes the patch stick to things. You can use iron-on patch backing, sew-on material, or peel-and-stick adhesive. This is how to make iron on patches machine embroidery or sew-on patches embroidery machine.
Heat Press or Iron (If using iron-on backing): Needed to melt the glue on iron-on backing.
Temporary Fabric Adhesive Spray or Basting Spray (Optional but helpful): Can help hold the fabric and stabilizer together.

Picking Your Patch Fabric

The fabric you choose for the patch base matters. It needs to be stable. This means it doesn’t stretch much.

Twill: This is a classic patch material. It’s strong and takes stitches well. Many bought patches are made on twill.
Felt: Felt is easy to use because it doesn’t fray. It works well for simpler designs.
Canvas: Another tough fabric that makes durable patches.
Special Patch Fabric: You can find fabrics made just for patches. They might have a coating to make them extra stable.

Think about how the fabric color will look with your thread colors.

Deciphering Embroidery Patch Stabilizer

Stabilizer is the hidden hero of machine embroidered patches. It supports the fabric during stitching. Different kinds do different jobs. You pick one based on your fabric and design.

Here are common types:

Cut-Away Stabilizer: You leave this on the back of the embroidery forever. You trim away the extra around the design. It gives steady support for designs with lots of stitches. It’s great for knit fabrics or unstable ones, but less common for patches where you cut around the design completely.
Tear-Away Stabilizer: You can tear this away from the back when you’re done. It works well for stable fabrics. It’s good for patches because it’s easy to remove. But it might not be enough support for very dense designs.
Wash-Away Stabilizer (Water-Soluble): This dissolves in water after you stitch. It’s good for lightweight fabrics or when you don’t want any stabilizer left. There are film types you put on top (topping) and fibrous ones you hoop underneath. Topping is often used on top of textured fabrics like felt or fleece to keep stitches from sinking in.
Heat-Away Stabilizer: This melts away when you iron it. Good for fabrics that can’t get wet.

For most machine embroidered patches, especially those cut out, a medium to heavy weight tear-away or a special patch stabilizer (sometimes called patch backing, but it acts like a stabilizer during stitching) works well. You can also use a combination, like tear-away with a water-soluble topping if your fabric is fuzzy.

Stabilizer Type	Use Case for Patches	Removal Method	Support Level (General)
Tear-Away	Common for cut-out patches, stable fabrics	Tears away	Medium
Wash-Away (Fiber)	When no stabilizer should remain, maybe for toppers	Dissolves in water	Medium to Low
Wash-Away (Film)	As a topping on textured fabric	Dissolves in water	Topping (Keeps stitches up)
Heat-Away	When fabric can’t get wet	Melts with heat	Medium

Pick a stabilizer that matches the thickness and stitch count of your patch design. Thicker fabric or more stitches need stronger support.

Crafting Your Design

The design is the heart of your custom embroidery patches machine project. You need a design file your machine understands.

Digitizing Your Embroidery Patch Design

What is digitizing? It’s the process of turning an image (like a logo or drawing) into instructions for the embroidery machine. It tells the machine where to put stitches, what type of stitches to use (fill, outline, satin), and in what order.

You can get design files in a few ways:

Buy Pre-Made Designs: Many websites sell embroidery designs. Look for designs meant for patches, especially those with a satin stitch border built-in.
Use Software Included with Your Machine: Some machines come with basic digitizing software.
Buy Separate Digitizing Software: For more control and complex designs, you might buy dedicated digitizing software. This lets you create designs from scratch or edit existing ones.
Hire a Digitizer: If your design is complex or you don’t want to digitize yourself, you can pay someone to do it for you.

If you are creating or editing a design for an applique patch embroidery machine or a standard patch, here are some key things to think about:

Size: Make sure the design fits within your hoop.
Stitch Types: For patches, you often use fill stitches for large areas, outline stitches for details, and a satin stitch border.
Satin Stitch Border: This is the raised, close stitching that goes around the edge of the patch. It’s important for finishing the edge neatly after you cut the patch out. A good patch design will have this border as the last step the machine stitches.
Stitch Density: How close together the stitches are. For patches, you often need slightly denser stitches than on clothing because they will be handled a lot.
Underlay: These are stitches put down before the main stitches. They help stabilize the fabric and make the top stitches look better. Good underlay is important for patches.

If you are digitizing yourself for DIY embroidery patches, here are basic steps in many software programs:

Import your image.
Trace or draw the shapes you want to stitch.
Assign stitch types (fill, satin, run).
Set stitch directions and density.
Add underlay stitches.
Arrange the stitch order (make the border last!).
Save the file in your machine’s format.

Getting digitizing right takes practice. Start with simple designs.

Setting Up for Stitching

Once you have your design and materials, it’s time to get the machine ready.

Hooping the Fabric and Stabilizer

Proper hooping is essential for good results. The fabric and stabilizer need to be tight like a drumhead, but not stretched out of shape.

Cut a piece of your patch base fabric. It should be larger than your design and hoop.
Cut a piece of your chosen embroidery patch stabilizer. It should also be larger than the design and hoop.
Place the stabilizer under the fabric. For most patches, you hoop the fabric and stabilizer together.
Put the layers into the embroidery hoop. Make sure the fabric and stabilizer are smooth and flat. Push the hoop layers together firmly.
Check the back: the layers should be captured neatly in the hoop.
Feel the top: it should be taut (tight) with no wrinkles. Don’t pull too hard, or you might stretch the fabric.

Tip: If your fabric is slippery or the stabilizer moves, use a little temporary spray adhesive between them before hooping. Let the spray dry for a minute or two before sticking them together.

Loading the Design

Your embroidery machine reads design files.

Get your design file on a USB stick, memory card, or through your machine’s Wi-Fi connection.
Insert the USB or card into your machine.
Use your machine’s screen to find and select your design file.
Position the design on the screen. Make sure it fits within the hoop area shown on the screen. Center it if needed.
Check the design’s size and stitch count. This gives you an idea of how long it will take.
Many machines let you “trace” the design outline with the needle before stitching. Do this to make sure the design will stitch where you want it on the hooped fabric and won’t hit the sides of the hoop.

Threading the Machine

Load the first color of thread for your design. Make sure the bobbin has enough thread too! It’s best to use embroidery bobbin thread, which is lighter than the top thread.

Doing a Test Stitch

If you are unsure about your fabric, stabilizer, or tension, stitch a small test design on a scrap piece of the same fabric and stabilizer. This helps you catch problems before stitching your actual patch. Check the stitches on both the top and bottom.

Stitching Your Patch

Now for the fun part! Watching the machine create your custom embroidery patches.

Running the Machine

Attach the hooped fabric to your machine.
Double-check that the design is loaded and positioned correctly.
Make sure your first thread color is loaded.
Lower the presser foot.
Start the machine!

The machine will now follow the instructions in the design file. It will stitch the design layer by layer, color by color.

Watching the Stitch

Stay near your machine while it’s stitching.

Watch the stitches as they form. Are they looking good?
Listen to the machine. Does it sound normal?
Watch the bobbin thread level, especially for larger designs.
Watch the top thread spool.

Dealing with Thread Breaks

Sometimes a thread breaks. Don’t worry, this happens.

The machine will usually stop.
Re-thread the machine carefully. Make sure the thread goes through all the guides.
Go back a few stitches on your machine’s screen. Most machines let you step back stitch by stitch or color block by color block. This lets you stitch over the place where the thread broke. It helps hide the repair.
Start the machine again. Watch that the stitching covers the break point neatly.

Color Changes

Your machine will stop for color changes.

When the machine stops, it’s time to change the thread.
Cut the current top thread near the spool.
Pull the thread out the front of the needle.
Thread the machine with the next color for the design.
Trim any connecting threads on the back of the design if your machine made jump stitches between areas of the same color.

Stitching the Border

The final step in most patch designs is the border stitch. This is usually a dense satin stitch that goes right along the edge where you will cut. Make sure this step runs smoothly, as it’s key to the final look of your DIY embroidery patches.

Finishing Your Patch

The stitching is done, but the patch isn’t finished yet! You need to take it off the fabric and add the backing.

Removing from the Hoop

Take the hoop off the machine.
Loosen the hoop screw and carefully remove the fabric and stabilizer from the hoop.

Trimming the Patch

This is where the patch shape comes to life.

Place the hooped fabric flat.
Trim away the excess stabilizer from the back. If you used tear-away, gently tear it away from around the design. Try to get as close to the stitches as you can without pulling the stitches. If you used wash-away, you’ll deal with that later.
Now, carefully cut out the patch from the base fabric. Use sharp scissors. Cut just outside the satin stitch border. You want to leave a small edge of fabric (maybe 1/16 to 1/8 inch, or about 1-3 mm) outside the border stitching. Do not cut into the stitches. This small fabric edge helps the satin stitch border lay nicely and protects it.

Note: Some patch methods involve stitching the patch onto a special patch material that has a heat-seal border built-in. In these cases, you might cut right up to the edge of the heat-seal material before the final satin stitch. This is less common for basic DIY patches. The method described above, cutting slightly outside the satin stitch, is standard for many machine embroidered patches.

If you used wash-away stabilizer, you might need to wash or soak the patch now to remove it, following the stabilizer maker’s directions. Let the patch dry completely.

Applying Embroidery Patch Backing

How do you want to attach your patch? This decides the backing you add.

Sew-On Patches Embroidery Machine: This is the simplest. Your patch is finished! You just sew it onto whatever you want to attach it to. No extra backing needed on the patch itself, unless you want a neat fabric finish on the back.
How To Make Iron On Patches Machine Embroidery: This is very popular.
- Get iron-on patch backing material. It looks like a thin sheet of glue on paper.
- Cut a piece of the iron-on backing slightly smaller than your finished patch. You don’t want glue sticking out past the edges.
- Place the glue side of the backing material onto the back of your finished patch.
- Follow the backing material’s instructions carefully. Usually, you place the patch backing-side-down onto a surface (like a heat press pad or ironing board), put a pressing cloth over the patch, and press with a hot iron or heat press. The heat melts the glue onto the back of the patch fabric. Use firm, even pressure and the right temperature and time stated by the backing maker.
- Let the patch cool completely. The glue should now be stuck to the back of the patch. When you want to iron it onto clothing later, you’ll peel off the paper liner and press it again.
Peel-and-Stick Adhesive: This is good for temporary placement or on items you can’t iron or sew.
- Get a sheet of permanent or temporary peel-and-stick fabric adhesive.
- Cut a piece slightly smaller than your patch.
- Stick it to the back of your patch.
- Peel off the backing paper when you are ready to stick the patch onto something.

Choose the backing that works best for how the patch will be used. For durability, sew-on patches embroidery machine is usually best, even if it also has iron-on backing.

Tips for Making Great Patches

Here are some extra tips to help you make top-quality machine embroidered patches.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Stitches Look Messy or Fabric Bunches: Your stabilizer might be too light for the fabric or design. Try a heavier stabilizer or use two layers. Check your hooping – make sure it’s tight but not stretched.
Thread Breaks Often: Check your needle – is it sharp and the right size? Is the machine threaded correctly? Is your thread old or poor quality? Is the design too dense?
Bobbin Thread Shows on Top: Your top thread tension might be too tight. Adjust your machine’s tension settings.
Gap Between Border and Inner Design: This is a digitizing issue. The border wasn’t placed correctly relative to the final edge of the design. Or, the fabric shifted during stitching (stabilizer issue).
Patch Edges Aren’t Clean After Cutting: Use very sharp scissors. Make sure you leave that small border of fabric outside the satin stitch.

Making Custom Embroidery Patches Machine Style

Creating custom embroidery patches machine style lets you personalize everything.

Design Your Own: Use digitizing software to make truly unique designs. Add names, dates, or special images.
Applique Techniques: An applique patch embroidery machine design involves stitching a piece of fabric onto the base fabric using a placement line, then trimming the applique fabric, and finally stitching it down with a border (often a satin stitch). This is great for large color areas and saves on stitch count. You can combine applique with regular embroidery for interesting effects.
Special Threads: Use metallic threads, glow-in-the-dark threads, or neon threads for unique looks. (Note: Special threads can sometimes be harder to work with and might need a special needle).
Different Shapes: Patches don’t have to be circles or squares. With careful trimming outside the border stitch, you can make custom shapes.

Caring for Your Patches

Once your patch is made and applied, how do you care for it?

Washing: If the item with the patch needs washing, turn it inside out. Use cool or warm water and a gentle cycle. Air drying is best, or tumble dry on low. High heat can sometimes affect iron-on backing or cause threads to shrink differently than the base fabric.
Ironing: If you need to iron the item, avoid putting the iron directly on the embroidery. Iron from the back, or use a pressing cloth over the patch.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make patches without digitizing software?
Yes, if you buy pre-made embroidery designs that are suitable for patches (meaning they have a built-in border stitch as the last step). You just load the file into your machine.
What’s the best stabilizer for patches?
For most cut-out patches, a medium to heavy tear-away or a dedicated patch stabilizer works well. The best choice depends on your base fabric and design density.
How do I make the edge look neat?
The dense satin stitch border is key. You must also cut the patch carefully just outside this border stitch, leaving a tiny edge of fabric.
Can I use regular fabric for the patch base?
Yes, but it needs to be stable. Thin, stretchy fabrics don’t work well unless heavily stabilized. Twill, felt, or canvas are better choices.
Is iron-on backing as strong as sewing?
No, sewing is generally more durable, especially for items that will be washed often or used roughly. Iron-on is convenient, but it can sometimes peel over time. Using iron-on plus sewing is the most secure method.
My machine doesn’t have a patch-specific setting. What do I do?
You don’t need one! Patches are just regular embroidery designs stitched onto stable fabric with the right stabilizer. The ‘patch’ part comes from the design file having the border and how you finish it (trimming and adding backing).

Wrapping Up

Making machine embroidered patches is a rewarding way to use your embroidery machine. You can make custom designs for yourself, for gifts, or even to sell. By choosing the right materials, getting a good design (whether bought or digitized), and following these steps, you can create professional-looking DIY embroidery patches right at home. Practice makes perfect, so don’t worry if your first few aren’t flawless. Keep stitching, and soon you’ll be making awesome patches every time!