How To Make Your Own Sewing Patterns: A Guide

Can you make your own sewing patterns? Yes, you absolutely can! Making your own sewing patterns is a rewarding skill that allows for complete creative freedom in your garment design. Whether you want to create unique clothing, perfectly fitting pieces, or replicate a beloved garment, pattern drafting is the key. This guide will walk you through the process, from basic concepts to more advanced techniques.

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Why Make Your Own Sewing Patterns?

Many sewists start by using commercial patterns. While these are fantastic resources, creating your own sewing patterns opens up a world of possibilities.

Perfect Fit: Commercial patterns are made for standard sizes. Your body is unique. Drafting your own patterns means you can tailor every curve and line to your exact measurements, achieving a fit that ready-to-wear clothing often can’t match.
Unique Designs: Tired of seeing the same styles everywhere? With your own patterns, you can bring your unique visions to life. You can invent new silhouettes, combine design elements from different garments, or create something entirely from scratch.
Cost-Effective in the Long Run: While the initial investment in tools might seem significant, once you have a collection of basic block patterns and the skill for pattern drafting, you can create an endless wardrobe without continuously buying new commercial patterns.
Understanding Garment Construction: The act of drafting a pattern helps you deeply understand how a garment is constructed. You’ll learn about seam allowances, grainlines, darts, and how flat pieces of fabric come together to form a three-dimensional garment.
Adaptability: Even if you don’t want to draft from scratch, learning to adapt existing sewing templates or modifying commercial patterns is a powerful skill. You can change necklines, add or remove sleeves, adjust hemlines, and much more.
Reproducing Favorite Items: Have a beloved piece of clothing that’s falling apart? With careful measurement and pattern drafting, you can create a new version.

Getting Started: Essential Tools and Supplies

Before diving into pattern drafting, gather these essential tools.

Basic Pattern Drafting Tools

Paper:
- Pattern Paper: Large rolls of thin, often translucent paper are ideal. It’s easy to draw on and trace through.
- Newsprint: Large rolls of newsprint are a budget-friendly option for initial drafts.
- Kraft Paper: Sturdier than newsprint, good for more robust patterns.
- Tracing Paper: Useful for tracing existing garments or parts of patterns you want to modify.
Measuring Tools:
- Measuring Tape: A flexible, durable tape measure is crucial for taking body measurements and measuring pattern pieces.
- Rulers:
  - Clear Ruler (18″ or 24″): For drawing straight lines.
  - Curved Rulers (French Curve, Hip Curve): Essential for drawing smooth curves like necklines, armholes, and hip lines.
Marking Tools:
- Pencils: Mechanical pencils are great for precision. Have both HB and 2B pencils for different line weights.
- Erasers: For correcting mistakes.
- Pattern Notchers: These small metal tools create V-shaped notches on the edge of pattern pieces, helping you align them correctly during sewing.
- Awl: A sharp pointed tool used to mark dots or small holes on pattern pieces, often indicating placement for pockets or buttonholes.
Cutting Tools:
- Pattern Shears: Dedicated scissors for cutting paper patterns. Never use them for fabric!
- Rotary Cutter and Mat: For precise cutting, especially on straight lines.
Other Supplies:
- Clear Tape: For joining pattern pieces or securing paper.
- Scissors: General-purpose scissors for trimming paper.
- Mannequin (Optional but Recommended): A dress form that matches your measurements can be invaluable for draping and checking fit.

The Foundation: Understanding Body Measurements

Accurate body measurements are the bedrock of successful pattern drafting. Take your measurements carefully and preferably with the help of another person. Wear close-fitting clothing or undergarments when taking measurements.

Key Body Measurements

Here’s a list of essential measurements. Always measure in inches or centimeters consistently.

Measurement	How to Take
Bust	Around the fullest part of your bust, keeping the tape measure parallel to the floor.
Underbust	Directly under your bust, where a bra band sits.
Waist	Around the narrowest part of your natural waist.
High Hip	Around your body at the natural waistline, dipping slightly.
Full Hip	Around the fullest part of your hips and buttocks.
Back Waist Length	From the prominent bone at the nape of your neck down to your natural waist.
Front Waist Length	From the shoulder point (where your shoulder seam would be) down to your natural waist.
Shoulder Width	Across your back, from shoulder bone to shoulder bone.
Sleeve Length	From the shoulder bone to your wrist bone, with your arm slightly bent.
Arm Circumference	Around the fullest part of your upper arm.
Neck Circumference	Around the base of your neck.

Tip: Keep a notebook or spreadsheet to record your measurements and any adjustments you make to your patterns.

Method 1: Creating a Basic Bodice Block

A block pattern, also known as a sloper, is a basic, close-fitting pattern for a garment without any stylistic features or ease. It’s the foundation upon which you can build all your designs. Making a bodice block is a fundamental skill in pattern drafting.

Steps to Draft a Bodice Block (Back Bodice)

Let’s start with the back bodice. This is often simpler than the front.

Prepare Your Paper: Lay out your pattern paper. You’ll need enough space to draw a rectangle that’s roughly half your bust measurement plus ease, and your back waist length.
Draw the Main Rectangle:
- Width: (Bust / 2) + Ease (e.g., 1-2 inches for a fitted block). Let’s call this Bodice Width.
- Height: Back Waist Length.
- Draw a straight vertical line representing the center back. From a point on this line (let’s call it point A), measure down the Back Waist Length and mark point B. Draw a horizontal line from B. Draw a perpendicular line from A to create your rectangle. Point A is the neck point, and the line through B is the waistline.
Mark Shoulder and Armhole:
- Shoulder: From point A, measure down 1/8 of your Neck Circumference plus 1/4 inch. Mark this as point C. Draw a horizontal line from C. This marks the shoulder line.
- Armhole Depth: From point A, measure down the Back Armhole Depth. A common formula for this is (Bust / 6) + 2 inches, but it can vary. Measure from the shoulder point (C) down to where the sleeve will attach. Let’s mark this point D on the vertical center back line. Then, on the shoulder line you just drew (from C), measure inwards a certain amount (this is your shoulder width, divided by 2, minus a small adjustment if needed). Mark this point E.
Shape the Neckline and Armhole:
- Neckline: Curve from point A down to a point about 1/2 inch from the vertical line at the top. This creates the back neckline.
- Armhole: From point E, draw a smooth curve down to a point on the vertical line that is the armhole depth you measured (point D). Use your curved ruler for a nice, even curve.
Mark the Waistline:
- Waist Dart: At the waistline (line B), find the center of your back (halfway between the side seam and center back). Measure from this center point horizontally towards the side seam. The amount you measure inwards is your back waist dart intake. A common starting point is 3/4 inch to 1 inch. Mark these points on the waistline, 1.5 to 2 inches from the center back line.
- Shape the Side Seam: From the point where the armhole meets the side of the bodice, draw a slightly curved line down to the waistline, tapering slightly to the marked dart points.

Steps to Draft a Bodice Block (Front Bodice)

The front bodice is similar but includes adjustments for the bust.

Prepare Your Paper: You’ll need paper for a rectangle approximately half your bust measurement plus ease by your front waist length.
Draw the Main Rectangle:
- Width: (Bust / 2) + Ease.
- Height: Front Waist Length.
- Draw a vertical line from a point F (neck point). Measure down the Front Waist Length to point G (waistline). Draw a horizontal line from G.
Mark Shoulder and Armhole:
- Shoulder: From point F, measure down 1/8 of your Neck Circumference. Mark this as point H. Draw a horizontal line from H.
- Armhole Depth: From point F, measure down the Front Armhole Depth. A common formula is (Bust / 6) + 1/2 inch, or sometimes slightly less than the back. Mark this point I on the center front line. On the shoulder line from H, measure inwards your shoulder width divided by 2. Mark this point J.
Shape the Neckline and Armhole:
- Neckline: Curve from point F down to a point on the center front line, about 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the line. The front neckline is generally lower and deeper than the back.
- Armhole: From point J, draw a smooth curve down to point I.
Mark the Waistline and Bust Dart:
- Bust Dart: The bust dart is crucial for shaping the front. Find the apex of your bust (the fullest point). Measure the distance from the shoulder (point J) to the bust apex. This is your shoulder-to-bust measurement. Measure the distance from the center front line to the bust apex. This is your bust span.
- On your pattern, locate the bust apex point. Measure down from the shoulder line (J) your shoulder-to-bust measurement. Measure horizontally from the center front line your bust span. Mark this point K.
- Bust Dart Intake: The width of the bust dart at the waistline is typically your Full Bust measurement minus your Underbust measurement, then divided by 2. For example, if your Full Bust is 36″ and your Underbust is 30″, that’s a 6″ difference. Divided by 2 is 3″. This 3″ is your total bust dart intake. You usually split this between the waist dart and a side bust dart or transfer it to the shoulder dart. For a basic block, we might put a portion at the waist.
- Measure inwards from the center front line on the waistline by half of your calculated waist dart intake for the front (e.g., 1/2 inch). Mark points L and M.
- From the bust apex (K), draw lines to L and M. The angle between these lines will determine the dart length.
- Shape the Side Seam: Draw a slightly curved line from the armhole to the waistline, tapering towards the side seam dart point.

Adding Ease and Seam Allowances

Ease: The initial block is usually drafted with minimal ease. You’ll add wearing ease later, depending on the garment style.
Seam Allowances: Add 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch seam allowances to all edges except the center front/back if they are meant to be cut on a fold. Add hem allowances to the bottom edges.

Method 2: Creating a Basic Sleeve Block

A sleeve block is essential for any garment with sleeves.

Measure Your Armhole: Measure the circumference of the armhole on your bodice block. Add about 1 inch of ease.
Measure Sleeve Length and Bicep: Measure your actual sleeve length and the fullest part of your bicep.
Drafting the Sleeve Cap:
- Width: Armhole Circumference (from bodice block) + Ease. Divide this total by 2. This is the width of your sleeve cap.
- Height: You’ll need to calculate this. A common method is to divide the armhole circumference by 2 and add 1-2 inches.
- Draw a rectangle using these dimensions. The top horizontal line is the sleeve cap.
Shape the Sleeve Cap:
- Divide the top line into quarters.
- Mark the center of the top line for the sleeve crown. Curve downwards slightly from the center to the quarter marks, then curve upwards to the side marks. Use your curved ruler to create a smooth cap.
Draft the Sleeve Body:
- Measure down from the side marks on the sleeve cap the desired sleeve length.
- Measure around your bicep plus ease. Divide this by 2. Mark these points on the bottom of the sleeve.
- Draw straight or slightly curved lines from the side marks of the sleeve cap down to the bottom bicep marks.
Add Seam Allowances: Add seam allowances to all edges.

Method 3: Draping on the Mannequin

Draping is a more intuitive method of pattern making where you use fabric directly on a dress form to create your design.

Steps for Draping

Prepare the Mannequin: Cover your mannequin with a layer of muslin or a tightly woven fabric. Mark the key measurements on the mannequin (e.g., waist, bust, hip lines) using elastic bands or twill tape.
Select Your Fabric: Use muslin or a similar medium-weight fabric for draping.
Pin the Fabric: Drape a piece of fabric over the mannequin, aligning the grainline with the center front or center back.
Shape the Garment:
- Center Front/Back: If creating a garment with a center front opening, fold the fabric in half lengthwise and drape it over the mannequin, aligning the fold with the center front.
- Darts and Shaping: Pin the fabric smoothly to the mannequin, creating soft folds or darts to capture the body’s shape. Pay attention to the bust, waist, and hip curves. Use plenty of pins.
- Seams: For side seams or shoulder seams, bring the fabric together and pin them precisely.
Trim and Mark: Once you are happy with the shape, carefully trim away excess fabric, leaving a seam allowance. Use an awl or chalk to mark grainlines, darts, and any other important details.
Transfer to Paper: Carefully remove the draped fabric from the mannequin. Lay it flat on your pattern paper. Trace around the edges, transferring all markings, darts, and seam lines. This traced piece is your first pattern piece. Refine and true up the lines with rulers.

Method 4: Adapting Existing Sewing Patterns

Creating custom patterns doesn’t always mean starting from scratch. Adapting commercial or existing sewing templates is a common and effective practice.

Common Adaptations

Lengthening or Shortening:
- Bodice/Skirt/Trousers: Find the lengthen/shorten lines indicated on the pattern pieces. If none are present, draw a horizontal line through the fullest part of the hip or waist. Cut along this line and add or subtract fabric width as needed, then true up the side seams.
- Sleeves: Similar to the bodice, find the lengthen/shorten lines or draw them at the bicep or elbow.
Changing Necklines:
- Redraw the neckline to be higher, lower, wider, or a different shape (e.g., V-neck, scoop neck). Use a French curve for smooth lines.
Adding or Removing Darts:
- You can eliminate a dart by pivoting it to another seam or to the edge of the pattern. You can also redistribute dart intake into other areas.
Adjusting Sleeve Fit:
- If the sleeve is too tight or too loose in the bicep, you can add or subtract width by making a vertical cut through the sleeve pattern piece and spreading or overlapping it.
Adding Style Lines:
- You can cut a pattern piece and insert a new seam line to create panels, yokes, or other design details.

Tips for Adapting Patterns

Make a Muslin: Always create a test garment (muslin) from your adapted pattern before cutting into your fashion fabric. This is crucial for checking fit and design changes.
Drafting Adjustments: If you’re making significant changes, it’s often easier to trace the original pattern piece onto new paper, make your adjustments on the tracing, and then cut from that.
Keep Records: Note down all the adjustments you make to commercial patterns. This helps you remember for future projects.

Method 5: Free Pattern Making and Digital Pattern Making

There are resources available for those looking to explore free pattern making and the realm of digital pattern making.

Free Pattern Making Resources

Online Tutorials and Blogs: Many sewing bloggers and websites offer free tutorials and even free basic patterns for download.
Public Domain Patterns: Some older sewing patterns are in the public domain and can be legally downloaded and used.
Sketching and Measuring: If you have a basic block pattern, you can sketch out your desired design over it and then redraw the new lines to create your custom pattern.

Digital Pattern Making

Digital pattern making uses specialized software to draft, modify, and print sewing patterns.

Software Options:
- Adobe Illustrator/Inkscape: These vector graphics programs can be used for pattern drafting. They require a good understanding of drawing tools and measurements.
- Specialized Pattern Making Software: Programs like Valentina, StyleCAD, or CLO 3D are designed specifically for garment pattern making and 3D design.
Benefits of Digital Pattern Making:
- Precision: Digital tools offer incredible accuracy.
- Easy Modification: Changes can be made quickly and easily without redrawing entire pieces.
- Storage: Patterns can be saved and organized digitally, taking up no physical space.
- Printing Options: You can print patterns at home on standard paper (tiled) or send them to a plotter for large format printing.
- 3D Visualization: Advanced software allows you to see your design in 3D on a virtual avatar, helping with fit and visualization.
Learning Curve: Digital pattern making, especially with specialized software, can have a steeper learning curve than traditional methods.

Pattern Notations and Markings

Once your pattern pieces are drafted, they need to be marked clearly. This ensures they are cut and assembled correctly.

Essential Pattern Markings

Grainline: A straight line with arrows at each end, indicating which way the pattern piece should be aligned with the fabric grain.
Cutting Lines: The outermost lines indicating where to cut the fabric.
Seam Lines: Lines inside the cutting lines that show where to sew. The space between the cutting line and the seam line is your seam allowance.
Notches: Small V-shaped or outward-facing marks on the seam lines that help match pieces together (e.g., shoulder to sleeve, front to back bodice).
Dots: Small dots indicating specific points, such as the placement of pockets, buttonholes, or the apex of a dart.
Darts: Lines indicating where to fold and sew to create shape.
Pleats: Lines and symbols indicating how to fold and place pleats.
Fold Lines: Lines indicating where the fabric should be placed on a fold.
Button/Buttonhole Placement: Marks for the center of buttons and the start/end points of buttonholes.
Waistline, Bustline, Hipline: These are often marked to help with fitting.
Piece Name: Clearly label each pattern piece (e.g., “Bodice Front,” “Sleeve”).
Size/Version: If you’re creating multiple sizes or versions.
Number of Pieces to Cut: How many of each pattern piece to cut from the fabric (e.g., “Cut 2,” “Cut 1 on Fold”).

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: Do I need to be good at drawing to make sewing patterns?
A1: You don’t need to be an artist, but basic drawing skills are helpful for creating smooth curves. Rulers, especially French curves and hip curves, are your best friends for creating accurate and smooth lines.

Q2: What is the easiest way to start making my own patterns?
A2: Start by tracing an existing garment you like the fit of, or begin by creating a basic block pattern for a simple garment like a skirt or a basic bodice. Adapting commercial patterns is also a great starting point.

Q3: How do I add wearing ease to my patterns?
A3: Wearing ease is the extra space added to a pattern to allow for movement and comfort. It’s added to your body measurements before you start drafting. The amount of ease depends on the garment style – a very fitted dress will have less ease than a relaxed blouse.

Q4: Can I make patterns for knit fabrics?
A4: Yes, but knit patterns require different considerations than woven patterns. Knit fabrics stretch, so you’ll need to account for negative ease (the pattern is smaller than the body) and consider the stretch percentage of the fabric. Drafting for knits often involves more simplified shapes and less darting.

Q5: How do I make commercial patterns fit better?
A5: This is where pattern alteration skills come in. Common adjustments include full bust adjustments (FBA), small bust adjustments (SBA), grading seams, taking in side seams, and adjusting shoulder slope. You’ll usually make these adjustments on a muslin first.

Q6: What’s the difference between a block pattern and a commercial pattern?
A6: A block pattern (or sloper) is a basic, close-fitting pattern with no design features or ease. It’s the foundation. A commercial pattern is a pre-designed sewing pattern for a specific garment style, usually including ease, style lines, and instructions.

Q7: Is digital pattern making difficult to learn?
A7: It can be, depending on the software. Vector graphics software like Illustrator requires learning graphic design principles. Specialized pattern-making software has its own interface and workflow to learn. However, many programs are becoming more user-friendly, and there are abundant online tutorials.

Making your own sewing patterns is a journey of learning and exploration. By starting with the basics, practicing regularly, and not being afraid to experiment, you can unlock a new level of creativity and control in your sewing endeavors. Enjoy the process of bringing your unique garment designs to life!