What is a blind hem stitch sewing machine? It is a special stitch found on most sewing machines. This stitch helps you sew a hem that is mostly hidden on the outside of your project. Can you sew an invisible hem by machine? Yes, absolutely! A sewing machine lets you create a neat, strong hem quickly. This guide will show you how to do it step by step, using the blind hem stitch sewing machine setting and likely a special presser foot for blind hem work.
Sewing a blind hem by machine is a great skill. It makes your clothes and home projects look clean and finished. The stitches catch just a tiny bit of fabric on the outside. This makes them very hard to see. Let’s get started and learn this simple but useful machine blind hem stitch technique.
Getting Ready to Sew
Before you sew, you need a few things. Having your tools ready makes the job easier. You will need your sewing machine, of course. You will also need thread that matches your fabric closely.
- Your sewing machine
- Matching thread
- The item you want to hem (like a skirt or pants)
- Scissors
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Pins
- Iron and ironing board
- A blind hem foot (this special presser foot for blind hem work helps a lot)
Having a blind hem foot is really helpful. Most sewing machines come with one. Look in your machine’s box or manual. It has a guide that helps you sew straight.
Preparing Your Fabric
The way you fold your fabric is very important for a blind hem. This is how to fold fabric for blind hem sewing. The goal is to create a fold where the sewing machine needle can catch just a little bit of the main fabric.
First, finish the raw edge of your fabric. You can use a serger if you have one. Or you can use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. This stops the edge from fraying. This step is not part of the blind hem itself, but it makes the hem strong and tidy.
Next, measure how deep you want your hem to be. Let’s say you want a 2-inch finished hem.
- Fold the raw edge up towards the wrong side of the fabric by about 1/4 inch or the width of your finished edge. Press this fold with your iron. This hides the raw edge inside the hem.
- Now, fold the fabric up again. This time, fold it so the pressed, finished edge is inside the fold. The amount you fold up depends on your desired hem depth. If you want a 2-inch hem, the second fold will be about 1 3/4 inches (plus the 1/4 inch you already folded equals 2 inches total).
- Press this second fold very well. You now have a double-folded hem. The raw edge is hidden inside. The top edge of this folded hem is where you will sew.
Now for the special blind hem fold. This part can seem tricky at first.
- Unfold the second fold you just made. Keep the small 1/4-inch edge still folded up and pressed.
- Fold the main fabric back on itself, towards the right side of the fabric. Fold it so the lower edge of your project is sticking out. The top fold line of your hem allowance (the line you just unfolded) should be about 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch beyond the folded edge of the main fabric.
- Pins can help hold this fold in place. Place pins along this fold. You are making a ‘Z’ shape with the fabric edge.
Let’s describe the fold again simply.
Imagine the fabric edge.
* Fold up the raw edge a little (1/4 inch). Press.
* Fold up the whole hem amount (like 2 inches) hiding the raw edge. Press.
* Now, unfold the big fold.
* Fold the fabric back on itself, right sides touching, so the bottom edge is showing.
* Make sure the first fold line (the top of your hem allowance) is sticking out a little bit past the edge of the main fabric fold. This little bit is key. The blind hem stitch sewing machine will catch this little bit.
Here is a simple way to think about the final fold:
* The main part of your project is folded back.
* The hem allowance is layered on top.
* The very edge of the hem allowance (where you made the second fold) should be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from the fold of the main fabric. This small piece sticking out is what the needle will catch.
Press this special fold well. This prepares the fabric for sewing the machine blind hem stitch technique.
Setting Up the Sewing Machine
Now, let’s get your sewing machine ready. Using the correct sewing machine blind hem settings is key to success.
First, put the correct needle in your machine. Use a needle size that is good for your fabric type. A standard universal needle works for most fabrics.
Next, thread your machine. Use thread that matches your fabric color. This helps hide the stitches.
Now, select the blind hem stitch. Look at the stitch options on your machine. The blind hem stitch looks like a line of straight stitches with a few zigzag stitches jumping to the side every so often. There are usually different types of blind hem stitches, sometimes one for woven fabric and one for knit fabric.
- For woven fabrics: The stitch is usually a few straight stitches followed by a single zigzag stitch.
- For knit fabrics: The stitch might be a few straight stitches followed by a wider, sometimes slanted zigzag. This wider stitch gives the hem more stretch.
Choose the stitch that looks right for your fabric type. This is part of choosing the right sewing machine blind hem settings.
Now, adjust the stitch settings. You can usually change the stitch length and stitch width for the blind hem stitch.
- Stitch Length: This controls how long the straight stitches are. A shorter stitch length makes the straight stitches closer together. For a blind hem, you usually want a short stitch length. This makes the straight stitches less visible on the inside of the hem. Start with a stitch length of about 1 to 2. On some machines, this might be shown as 1.0 or 2.0.
- Stitch Width: This controls how wide the zigzag stitch goes. The zigzag stitch is what catches the main fabric. You want the zigzag to catch just a tiny bit of the main fabric fold. You need to set the stitch width carefully. Start with a small width, like 1 or 2. You will likely need to adjust this width based on your fabric and how you folded it. This is a key sewing machine blind hem setting to get right.
Blind hem tension adjustment is also important. If the tension is wrong, the stitches might look messy. They might pull the fabric. Or they might show too much on the outside.
- If the stitches look too tight, showing little loops on the top fabric, loosen the top tension.
- If the stitches look too loose, showing loops on the bottom fabric, tighten the top tension.
- The bobbin tension usually does not need changing.
Setting the blind hem tension adjustment might take some testing. It depends on your machine and your thread.
Learning About the Special Foot
Using a blind hem foot is highly recommended. It has a guide that helps you sew straight and keep your stitches in the right place. This presser foot for blind hem work makes the job much easier.
How does it work? The blind hem foot usually has a metal or plastic guide running down the center. There is also a small space or groove on the side of the guide.
When you sew, you line up the fold of your fabric (the main fabric fold, not the hem edge) against this guide.
- The straight stitches of the blind hem stitch sew on the hem allowance fabric, just to the side of the guide.
- The zigzag stitch jumps over the guide. It should land right on the folded edge of the main fabric, catching just a small amount of fabric.
Many blind hem feet are adjustable blind hem foot types. This means the guide can move left or right. You can turn a screw or dial on the foot to change the guide’s position. This lets you fine-tune exactly where the zigzag stitch lands. Adjusting this guide is crucial for getting the stitches to catch just the right amount of fabric.
To use this foot:
1. Turn off or unplug your machine for safety.
2. Remove the regular presser foot.
3. Attach the blind hem foot to your machine. It usually snaps on or screws into place like other feet.
4. Make sure the blind hem foot is seated correctly.
Using a blind hem foot correctly is a big part of successfully sewing an invisible hem by machine.
Practice Makes Perfect
Before sewing on your real project, always practice. Use a scrap piece of the same fabric you are hemming. Fold the scrap just like you folded the actual project.
- Set your sewing machine blind hem settings (stitch type, length, width).
- Put the blind hem foot on.
- Line up the folded edge of your scrap fabric against the guide on the foot.
- Sew a few inches.
Look at your practice stitches.
* On the inside (the hem allowance side), you will see straight stitches and the zigzag stitches.
* On the outside (the right side of the main fabric), you should see only tiny dots or stitches where the zigzag caught the fabric.
If you see too much stitching on the outside, try these things:
* Make the stitch width smaller.
* Adjust the adjustable blind hem foot’s guide to be closer to the needle.
* Check your blind hem tension adjustment.
If the zigzag stitch is not catching the main fabric fold at all, or is going off the edge:
* Make the stitch width larger.
* Adjust the adjustable blind hem foot’s guide to be farther from the needle.
* Check how you folded the fabric. Is the small piece sticking out enough?
Practice until you get the settings and folding right. This testing step is important for a good machine blind hem stitch technique.
Sewing the Hem – Step by Step
You have prepared your fabric. You have set up your machine with the right sewing machine blind hem settings and the presser foot for blind hem work. You have practiced. Now you are ready to sew the actual hem. This is how to sew an invisible hem by machine.
- Place your fabric under the blind hem foot. The specially folded edge (the Z-fold) should be against the guide of the blind hem foot. The bulk of the hem allowance will be to the left of the guide (or the side where the straight stitches sew). The small fold you want the zigzag to catch should be on the other side of the guide, right next to it.
- Lower the presser foot.
- Make sure the needle is in the correct position. When the machine starts, the straight stitches should sew on the hem allowance. When the zigzag stitch happens, it should jump over the guide and just catch the fold.
- Start sewing slowly. Watch the needle action. See where the zigzag stitch is landing.
- Keep the folded edge of the main fabric pressed against the guide on the blind hem foot as you sew. This guide helps keep your stitches even.
- Sew all the way around the hem. Be careful when you reach seams in the fabric. The fabric might be thicker there. Go slowly.
- When you get back to where you started, sew a few stitches over your starting point. This locks the stitches in place.
- Lift the presser foot. Gently pull the fabric away from the machine. Cut your threads.
You have just sewn a blind hem using the machine blind hem stitch technique!
Looking at Your Work
After sewing, take your project to an iron. Unfold the special blind hem fold. Lay the hem flat. Press the hem area well. Pressing makes the stitches settle into the fabric. It also helps the hem lie flat.
Now, look at your hem from both sides.
- On the inside, you will see the line of blind hem stitches on the hem allowance.
- On the outside, you should see very little stitching. You might see tiny dots or loops where the zigzag stitch caught the main fabric fold. If they are very small and match the thread color, they should be hard to notice.
If you are not happy with how it looks, you might need to change a setting and try again on a scrap. Or, you might need to unpick some stitches.
What problems might you see?
* Stitches show too much on the outside: The stitch width is too wide. Or the guide on the adjustable blind hem foot was set too far from the needle. Or the fabric was not folded correctly, leaving too much fabric for the zigzag to catch.
* Stitches are loose or looping: Check your blind hem tension adjustment. The top tension might be too loose.
* Fabric is puckering: The tension might be too tight. Or the stitch length might be too short for your fabric type. Or the fabric might be very fine or stretchy.
* Zigzag stitch misses the fold: The stitch width is too narrow. Or the guide on the adjustable blind hem foot was set too close to the needle. Or the fabric was not folded correctly, leaving too little fabric for the zigzag to catch.
Adjusting the stitch width and the position of the guide on the presser foot for blind hem are the most common fixes. Remember, the adjustable blind hem foot lets you move the guide easily.
Sometimes, very fine or stretchy fabrics are tricky to hem with a blind hem stitch sewing machine. You might need to use a stabilizer or try a different hem method for those fabrics.
More Tips for Success
- Use good quality thread: Cheap thread can break easily or cause tension problems.
- Test on scraps: Always test on scrap fabric first. This saves you from having to unpick stitches from your project.
- Press as you go: Pressing the folds before sewing helps keep everything neat and makes sewing easier. Pressing the finished hem helps it lie flat.
- Go slowly: Do not rush. Sew at a speed where you can control the fabric and make sure the fold stays against the guide on the foot.
- Check your needle: A dull or bent needle can cause skipped stitches or damage the fabric. Use a new needle for each project.
- Different fabrics: Some fabrics are easier than others. Cotton and linen are good to start with. Silk, rayon, or very fine knits can be harder.
- Types of blind hem stitches: Your machine might have more than one blind hem stitch option. Try them out on scrap fabric to see which one works best for your project. The stretch blind hem is good for knit fabrics.
Sewing an invisible hem by machine takes a little practice. But once you understand how the fold works and how to use the presser foot for blind hem sewing, it becomes much faster and gives a great finish. The machine blind hem stitch technique is a valuable skill.
Remember the key parts:
* Properly folding the fabric (the ‘Z’ fold).
* Setting the correct sewing machine blind hem settings (stitch type, width, length, blind hem tension adjustment).
* Using the blind hem foot and keeping the fabric fold against the guide.
With these steps, you can sew a professional-looking blind hem with your sewing machine.
Comprehending the Blind Hem Stitch
Let’s look a little closer at what the blind hem stitch sewing machine does. It’s designed to make a hem that you don’t really see from the outside.
The stitch pattern goes like this:
* It sews several straight stitches very close to the folded edge on the hem allowance part. These stitches hold the folded hem up.
* Then, the needle swings sharply over to the side. It makes one zigzag stitch. This zigzag stitch is meant to just catch the main fabric.
* Then, it swings back and sews more straight stitches on the hem allowance.
This pattern repeats. When the hem is finished and pressed, the straight stitches on the hem allowance are hidden inside the fold. The zigzag stitches are the only ones that reach the main fabric. If you’ve set the stitch width correctly, and you’ve folded the fabric with that small piece sticking out, the zigzag just catches a tiny loop or a single thread on the main fabric. This makes the stitch almost invisible from the right side.
Knowing how the blind hem stitch sewing machine works helps you troubleshoot. If the zigzag isn’t catching the fold, it means the stitch width is too small or the fabric fold is too far away. If it’s catching too much, the width is too big or the fold is too close.
The types of blind hem stitches available on your machine might vary. Some machines have a standard one. Others have variations for different fabrics. A stretch blind hem stitch for knits includes straight stitches that have a slight stretch to them, plus the zigzag. This helps the hem stretch with the fabric without breaking.
The goal is always the same: using this specific machine blind hem stitch technique to sew an invisible hem by machine.
Interpreting Machine Settings
Let’s talk more about sewing machine blind hem settings. Your machine’s manual is your best friend here. It will show you which stitch number is the blind hem stitch. It will also explain how to change the length and width.
On some machines, you turn dials. On others, you push buttons or use a touch screen. Look for symbols or numbers that control:
* Stitch Selection: Find the blind hem symbol. It looks like the stitch pattern (straight lines with side zigzags).
* Stitch Length: Controls the straight stitches. A low number (like 1 or 1.5) makes them short.
* Stitch Width: Controls how far the zigzag swings. A low number (like 1 or 2) makes it narrow. This is the main setting you will change during practice.
Blind hem tension adjustment is usually done using the main tension dial for the top thread. Most machines have one dial for this. You want the top thread and bobbin thread to meet evenly within the fabric layers. If the top thread is winning, you see loops on the bottom. If the bobbin thread is winning, you see loops on the top. For a blind hem, you mostly worry about the zigzag stitch showing nicely and the straight stitches not pulling. Adjust the top tension little by little and test on scraps.
Using the adjustable blind hem foot allows you to change the guide’s position without changing the stitch width setting on the machine. This gives you more control. You can set the stitch width on the machine to a general size. Then, use the foot’s adjustment to fine-tune exactly where that zigzag lands on your specific fabric fold. This makes getting the machine blind hem stitch technique just right much easier.
So, remember:
* Select the right stitch type (possibly considering the types of blind hem stitches for woven vs. knit).
* Set stitch length (usually short).
* Set stitch width (start narrow, adjust based on test).
* Check and adjust blind hem tension adjustment if needed.
* Position the adjustable blind hem foot guide correctly against the fabric fold.
These sewing machine blind hem settings work together to create the invisible hem.
Grasping the Presser Foot Function
Let’s really understand the presser foot for blind hem sewing. It’s more than just a piece of metal. It’s a guide system.
Imagine the foot. It has a flat bottom that rests on the fabric. It has a slot for the needle to go down. But the key feature is the vertical guide. This guide runs from the front to the back of the foot.
When you put your specially folded fabric under the foot, you place the fold of the main fabric right against this guide.
- The main part of your project (folded back) is to the right of the guide.
- The hem allowance (lying flat) is to the left of the guide.
- The small edge of the hem allowance that sticks out is just to the left of the guide, in the path of the needle’s zigzag swing.
The guide does two things:
1. Straight Sewing: It helps you feed the fabric straight. As long as you keep the fold against the guide, your stitches will follow a straight line.
2. Controlling Zigzag Catch: It sets the boundary for where the zigzag stitch happens. The straight stitches sew parallel to the guide. The zigzag stitch swings over the guide to reach the fabric fold on the other side.
If you have an adjustable blind hem foot, you can move this guide left or right.
* Move the guide more to the left (away from the needle’s default center position) to make the zigzag catch less fabric or land closer to the very edge of the fold.
* Move the guide more to the right (closer to the needle’s default center position) to make the zigzag catch more fabric or land farther onto the main fabric from the fold edge.
This adjustable guide is super helpful because it lets you fine-tune the stitch placement without changing the stitch width setting on the machine itself. You can use the machine’s stitch width setting to control how far the zigzag swings. You use the foot’s guide to control where that swing lands in relation to your fabric fold. Together, they help you achieve a perfect sewing an invisible hem by machine result.
So, using a blind hem foot isn’t just about having a special foot. It’s about using its guide feature to help you sew accurately and get that barely-there stitch on the outside. This is the real power of this presser foot for blind hem work.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with the right steps, you might run into problems. Here are simple ways to fix common blind hem issues when using the machine blind hem stitch technique.
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Problem: Stitches show too much on the outside.
- Simple Fixes:
- Check your sewing machine blind hem settings. Make the stitch width smaller.
- If you have an adjustable blind hem foot, move the guide closer to the needle.
- Look at how you folded the fabric. Is the small piece sticking out too wide? Refold and make it narrower.
- Try using thinner thread.
- Check your blind hem tension adjustment. Top tension might be too tight.
- Simple Fixes:
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Problem: Zigzag stitch is missing the fold completely.
- Simple Fixes:
- Check your sewing machine blind hem settings. Make the stitch width wider.
- If you have an adjustable blind hem foot, move the guide farther from the needle.
- Look at how you folded the fabric. Is the small piece sticking out too narrow, or is it tucked under? Refold to leave a small edge for the needle to catch.
- Make sure you are keeping the fabric fold right against the foot’s guide as you sew.
- Simple Fixes:
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Problem: Fabric is bunching up or puckering.
- Simple Fixes:
- Check your blind hem tension adjustment. The top tension might be too tight. Loosen it a little.
- Check your stitch length. It might be too short for your fabric. Try a slightly longer stitch.
- Sew slower. Pulling the fabric can cause puckers. Let the machine feed the fabric.
- For very fine or stretchy fabrics, try using a lightweight stabilizer you can tear away or wash away after sewing.
- Simple Fixes:
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Problem: Stitches are uneven.
- Simple Fixes:
- Make sure you are keeping the fabric fold firmly against the guide on the presser foot for blind hem sewing.
- Check your folding. Is the amount of fabric sticking out consistent all the way around? Refold sections if needed.
- Sew at a steady speed.
- Simple Fixes:
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Problem: Thread is breaking.
- Simple Fixes:
- Use better quality thread.
- Check your needle. Is it new and the right type for your fabric? Change it if needed.
- Check blind hem tension adjustment. Tension might be too high.
- Make sure the machine is threaded correctly.
- Simple Fixes:
Solving these issues usually involves adjusting the folding, sewing machine blind hem settings (width, length, tension), or how you use the presser foot for blind hem work. Practice on scraps is always the best way to find the right settings for your fabric. Mastering the machine blind hem stitch technique makes hemming much less frustrating.
Types of Blind Hem Stitches
As mentioned before, your sewing machine blind hem settings might offer more than one blind hem stitch. Let’s look at the common types of blind hem stitches you might find.
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Standard Blind Hem Stitch: This is the most common one. It has a few straight stitches on the hem allowance, then one zigzag stitch that swings out to catch the main fabric. This stitch is best for woven fabrics like cotton, linen, denim, or wool. It creates a sturdy hem.
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Stretch Blind Hem Stitch: This stitch is made for knit fabrics like jersey, fleece, or performance fabrics. It looks similar to the standard stitch, but the straight stitches might be formed using a stretch stitch (like a small zigzag or triple stitch). The zigzag that catches the main fabric is also usually wider and perhaps softer looking. Using a stretch blind hem stitch sewing machine setting on knit fabrics allows the hem to stretch when the fabric stretches. If you use a standard blind hem stitch on a knit, the stitches might break when the fabric stretches.
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Double Blind Hem Stitch (Less Common): Some advanced machines might have this. It involves more stitches to create an even stronger or potentially more invisible hem. However, the basic blind hem stitch sewing machine pattern is usually enough for most projects.
When choosing between the types of blind hem stitches, think about your fabric. Is it woven or knit? This choice is part of getting the right sewing machine blind hem settings for your project. Always test the chosen stitch on a scrap of your fabric before sewing the actual hem. This lets you see if the stitch provides enough stretch (for knits) or strength (for wovens) and how visible it is. Using the correct stitch improves your machine blind hem stitch technique and the final look of your sewing an invisible hem by machine.
FAQ – Common Questions About Machine Blind Hem
Here are answers to questions people often ask about sewing a blind hem with a sewing machine.
Q: Can I sew a blind hem without a blind hem foot?
A: Yes, you can. It is harder, though. The special presser foot for blind hem work has a guide. Without the foot, you must watch carefully to make sure the zigzag stitch catches the main fabric fold in just the right spot every time. You would use the same blind hem stitch sewing machine settings, but guiding the fabric takes more skill.
Q: Why does my blind hem stitch show on the outside?
A: This is a common problem. It usually means the zigzag stitch is catching too much of the main fabric. Check your sewing machine blind hem settings. Make the stitch width narrower. Also, check how you folded the fabric. The small piece sticking out should be very narrow. If you have an adjustable blind hem foot, move the guide closer to the needle.
Q: My blind hem stitches are loose.
A: This is likely a tension issue. Check your blind hem tension adjustment. The top thread tension might be too loose. Tighten the top tension slightly and test on a scrap.
Q: What is the right stitch length for a blind hem?
A: For most fabrics, a short stitch length (like 1 or 1.5) works well for the straight stitches. This makes them less visible on the inside. Test on your fabric to see what looks best.
Q: How wide should the stitch width be?
A: There is no single perfect width. It depends on your fabric, thread, and how you folded the hem. Start with a narrow width (like 1 or 1.5) and test on a scrap. Adjust wider or narrower until the zigzag catches just a tiny bit of the main fabric fold. This setting is key for sewing an invisible hem by machine.
Q: What is the best way to fold fabric for blind hem sewing?
A: The standard way is to fold the raw edge up (like 1/4 inch) and press. Then fold the hem up the full amount and press. Then unfold the big fold and fold the main fabric back on itself, leaving that first fold line sticking out about 1/4 to 1/2 inch past the main fabric fold. This creates the ‘Z’ shape needed for the blind hem stitch sewing machine.
Q: Are there different types of blind hem stitches?
A: Yes, most machines have a standard one for woven fabrics. Many also have a stretch blind hem stitch for knit fabrics. Choose the one that matches your fabric type.
Q: Can I use an adjustable blind hem foot on any machine?
A: Adjustable blind hem feet are usually made for specific machine brands or types (like low-shank or high-shank). Make sure the foot you get is right for your sewing machine. Using an adjustable blind hem foot helps a lot with the machine blind hem stitch technique.
Q: Do I need to press the hem after sewing?
A: Yes, pressing is very important. Unfold the special blind hem fold you made. Press the hem flat with an iron. This helps the stitches blend in and makes the hem lay nicely. It’s a key final step for sewing an invisible hem by machine.
Q: My fabric is too thick for a blind hem.
A: Very thick fabrics, like heavy coat wool, can be hard to blind hem by machine. The bulk of the fold can make it difficult to sew evenly and keep the stitches small. You might need to thin the fabric in the hem area or choose a different hem method.
Q: What if my machine doesn’t have a blind hem stitch?
A: If your machine does not have a blind hem stitch sewing machine setting, you cannot sew a machine blind hem. You would need to sew the hem by hand using a blind hem stitch.
Learning to sew a blind hem with your sewing machine is a useful skill. It takes a little practice, but following these steps will help you get a neat, nearly invisible finish on your sewing projects. Using the right sewing machine blind hem settings, folding the fabric correctly, and using a presser foot for blind hem sewing are the keys to success. Keep practicing the machine blind hem stitch technique, and you will get better with every hem you sew. Happy hemming!