Guide: How To Sew A Hem On A Sewing Machine Step By Step

Do you want to make your sewing projects look neat and finished? Adding a hem is a great way to do this. A hem is the finished edge of a piece of fabric. You see hems on clothes, curtains, and tablecloths. Sewing a hem on a sewing machine is faster and often looks better than sewing by hand. It gives a strong edge that lasts. Let’s learn how to sew a hem using your sewing machine.

Get Your Tools Ready

Before you start, get everything you need together. This makes sewing much easier.

A sewing machine that works well
Thread that matches your fabric color
The fabric you want to hem
Scissors to cut fabric and thread
An iron and ironing board
A measuring tape or ruler
Dressmaker’s chalk or a fabric marking pen
Pins to hold the fabric
Needles for your sewing machine (use the right type for your fabric)
Optional: A hemming guide sewing machine foot or attachment

Having these things ready saves you time. It helps you focus on sewing a good hem.

Make Your Fabric Ready

Your fabric edge needs to be ready before you start folding it up for a hem.

First, make sure the edge is straight. If it is not straight, cut it with scissors. Cut a clean line.
If your fabric frays a lot, you might want to finish the edge first. We will talk more about finishing fabric hem edges later. This step helps stop the edge from falling apart inside the hem.
Iron your fabric. Ironing makes the fabric flat and smooth. This helps you measure and fold correctly. A smooth hem is easier to sew.

How to Measure and Press a Hem

Getting the hem size right is important. It needs to be the same all the way around.

Decide how wide you want your finished hem to be. This is the part you see on the outside. Common sizes are 1/2 inch, 1 inch, or 2 inches.
Add extra fabric for the fold-under. This extra fabric goes inside the hem. It hides the raw edge. A common amount to add is the same as the finished hem width. So, if you want a 1-inch finished hem, you need 1 inch extra to fold under. The total hem allowance would be 2 inches (1 inch folded under + 1 inch folded again).
On the wrong side of your fabric, measure up from the raw edge. Mark the total hem allowance. Use your ruler and fabric pen or chalk. Make marks every few inches along the edge.
Now, connect the marks. Draw a line along the edge. This is your first fold line.
Fold the fabric edge up to meet this first line. The wrong sides of the fabric should be together.
Press this fold with your iron. Press well to make a sharp crease. This fold will be hidden inside the hem.
Now, fold the edge up again. This time, fold it up to the line that will be the top edge of your finished hem. This is the line you drew earlier if you are doing a double fold hem, or simply the desired finished hem width up from the first fold line.
Press this second fold with your iron. Press it flat and sharp. This is the top edge of your hem.
Your hem is now folded and pressed. The raw edge is hidden inside the folds. Use pins to hold the hem in place. Put pins every few inches. Place them going up and down, not side to side. This way, you can sew right over them.

Pressing is a very important step. It makes your hem neat and easier to sew straight. It’s part of how to measure and press a hem correctly.

Different Types of Hems Sewing Machine Can Make

There are several sewing machine hem techniques you can use. The best one depends on your fabric and what you are making. Let’s look at a few common ones.

Simple Fold Hem: You fold the fabric edge up once. Then fold it up a second time. This hides the raw edge. This is often called a double fold hem sewing machine technique. It is strong and neat. It is good for most fabrics. This is how to sew a straight hem on machine for many projects.
Blind Hem: This hem stitch is almost invisible from the right side of the fabric. It is often used on skirts, pants, and curtains. Your sewing machine needs a special stitch for this. You also need a special foot sometimes. This is the blind hem stitch sewing machine method.
Rolled Hem: This hem is very narrow. It is often used on light, sheer fabrics like scarves or blouses. The fabric edge is rolled up very tightly. Your machine might have a special foot for this. This is the rolled hem sewing machine technique.
Other Hems: There are other ways too. You can use a single fold hem if the edge is finished nicely (like with a serger). You can add binding. But the simple fold, blind hem, and rolled hem are very common for sewing machine work. These are some of the types of hems sewing machine users choose.

Finishing Fabric Hem Edges

Sometimes the raw edge inside your hem can fray. This means the threads come loose. This can make your hem look messy over time. Finishing the edge stops this. You can finish the edge before you fold the hem. Or you can finish it on the first fold before the second fold.

Here are some ways to finish fabric hem edges:

Zigzag Stitch: Use your sewing machine’s zigzag stitch. Sew along the raw edge of the fabric. Make the stitch wide enough to catch the edge. This is simple and works for many fabrics.
Serger or Overlock Stitch: If you have a serger machine, you can use it. A serger wraps thread around the edge. It trims the edge as it sews. This makes a very neat finish.
Pinking Shears: These are scissors with a jagged edge. Cutting the fabric edge with pinking shears can slow down fraying. It is simple but not as strong as stitching.
Binding: You can sew a piece of bias tape around the raw edge. This covers the edge completely. Then you fold this bound edge up to make the hem.

Choosing how to finish the edge depends on your fabric and the hem type. For a double fold hem sewing machine stitch, the raw edge is hidden inside. So you might not need to finish it unless the fabric frays a lot. For a single fold hem, finishing the edge is very important.

Sewing Machine Settings for Hemming

Using the right settings on your sewing machine is key. It helps your hem look good and stay strong. Sewing machine settings for hemming often need small changes based on your fabric and the type of hem.

Stitch Type: For a standard hem (like a double fold hem sewing machine stitch), you use a straight stitch. For a blind hem, you need the special blind hem stitch on your machine. For a rolled hem, you might use a small zigzag or a straight stitch with a special foot.
Stitch Length: A medium stitch length is usually good for hems. Try a length of 2.5 to 3.0 millimeters. A shorter stitch is stronger but can make holes in delicate fabric. A longer stitch might not hold well. Test on a scrap piece of your fabric first.
Needle: Use the right needle for your fabric. A universal needle works for many fabrics. Use a ballpoint needle for knits. Use a sharp needle for fine fabrics or microfibers.
Thread Tension: Your thread tension needs to be balanced. The stitches should look the same on the top and bottom of the fabric. If the tension is wrong, the seam might pucker or the stitches will loop. Test tension on scrap fabric. Adjust the tension dial on your machine if needed.
Presser Foot Pressure: Some machines let you change the pressure the foot puts on the fabric. Lighter pressure is good for thin or stretchy fabrics. Normal pressure works for most fabrics.
Needle Position: For a straight stitch hem, you often sew close to the top folded edge. Using the center needle position or moving the needle slightly left or right can help you sew straight.

Always test your settings on a small piece of the same fabric first. Sew a sample hem. See how it looks. Check the stitches. This helps you get the best result before you sew your real project. This is part of mastering sewing machine hem techniques.

Sewing the Hem: Step By Step

Now you are ready to sew! Here are steps for a common double fold hem sewing machine technique. This is how to sew a straight hem on machine.

Step 1: Set Up Your Machine

Put the right needle in your machine.
Thread your machine with matching thread.
Set your machine to a straight stitch.
Choose a stitch length of 2.5 to 3.0 mm.
Check your tension on scrap fabric. Adjust if needed.

Step 2: Position Your Fabric

Place your fabric under the presser foot. The wrong side of the fabric should be up.
The folded and pressed hem should be under the foot.
Position the fabric so your needle will sew close to the top folded edge of the hem. Usually, sew about 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch from the top fold. This catches the folded-under edge inside the hem.

Step 3: Start Sewing

Lower the presser foot.
Sew a few stitches forward.
Sew a few stitches backward (reverse) right at the start. This locks your stitches so they don’t come undone.
Sew forward slowly and steadily.

Step 4: Guide the Fabric

Keep the edge of your presser foot lined up with the top folded edge of the hem. This is important for how to sew a straight hem on machine.
Do not pull or push the fabric. Just guide it gently through the machine.
Remove pins as you sew. Do not sew over pins.

Step 5: Sew All Around

Sew all the way along the hem edge.
When you get back to where you started (if sewing a closed loop like a skirt hem), overlap your stitching by about 1/2 inch.
Sew a few stitches backward (reverse) to lock the end stitches.

Step 6: Finish

Lift the needle and the presser foot.
Pull the fabric away from the machine.
Cut the threads close to the fabric.
Iron the finished hem flat. Ironing after sewing makes the stitches sink into the fabric. It makes the hem look much better.

This step-by-step guide covers a basic double fold hem sewing machine method. Other sewing machine hem techniques have different steps.

Sewing a Blind Hem Stitch Sewing Machine Method

A blind hem is tricky but looks very professional. Your machine needs a blind hem stitch. It looks like small straight stitches with a few wide zigzag stitches every centimeter or so.

Preparing for a Blind Hem

Fold the hem allowance up once, pressing the raw edge up. (Wrong sides together).
Finish the raw edge (zigzag, serger) if needed.
Now, fold the hem up again. Fold it so the finished hem is the width you want.
Fold the hem back onto the right side of the fabric. Fold it just enough so about 1/4 inch of the finished hem edge sticks out. Pin in place. This little bit sticking out is where the zigzag stitches will catch.

Sewing the Blind Hem

Attach the blind hem foot to your machine (if you have one). This foot has a guide that helps you sew straight.
Select the blind hem stitch on your machine.
Adjust the stitch width and length. The straight stitches should be short. The zigzag stitch width should be just wide enough to catch the folded edge without showing much on the right side. Test on a scrap!
Place the fabric under the foot. The folded edge you made in step 4 of prep goes under the guide on the foot.
Start sewing. The straight stitches sew on the hem allowance. The zigzag stitches should just barely catch the tiny fold you made.
Sew all the way around. Lock stitches at the start and end.
Unfold the hem. Press it flat. The stitches should be almost invisible on the right side.

This explains the blind hem stitch sewing machine process. It takes practice to get the zigzag stitch to catch just a tiny bit of fabric.

Rolled Hem Sewing Machine Method

A rolled hem is small and delicate. It works best on thin fabrics. You often need a special rolled hem foot for your machine.

Preparing for a Rolled Hem

You usually do not fold and press a rolled hem much beforehand.
Trim the raw edge of the fabric cleanly.

Sewing the Rolled Hem with a Special Foot

Attach the rolled hem foot (often 3mm or 6mm size).
Select a straight stitch. A shorter stitch length (like 2.0 mm) is good.
Place the fabric edge under the foot. Lower the needle into the fabric near the edge.
Sew a few stitches. Then, gently lift the fabric edge in front of the foot.
Feed the fabric edge up into the curl opening on the foot. The foot rolls the fabric edge for you.
Keep feeding the fabric edge into the curl of the foot as you sew. The foot guides it.
Sew all the way along the edge. The foot makes a small double fold as you go.
Lock stitches at start and end.
Press the finished tiny hem.

This is the rolled hem sewing machine way using a special foot. Some people can do a rolled hem without a special foot, but it is much harder.

Using a Hemming Guide Sewing Machine Attachment

Some sewing machines come with or you can buy a hemming guide sewing machine attachment or foot. These tools help you fold the fabric as you sew or guide your stitching line.

Adjustable Hemmer Foot: This foot has a metal guide that you can adjust. You fold the fabric up to the desired width and align that fold with the guide as you sew. It helps you keep a consistent distance from the edge.
Rolled Hem Foot: As mentioned, this foot curls the fabric edge for a small rolled hem.
Edge Guide Foot: This foot has a blade or bar you can line up with a fold or edge. It helps you sew a straight line parallel to that edge. This is great for sewing the top stitch on a double fold hem.

Using a hemming guide sewing machine foot can make getting a straight, even hem much easier, especially for beginners. Try one if your machine has one or if you hem often.

Tips for a Great Hem

Always Press: Pressing your folds before and after sewing is key to a neat hem. Do not skip this step.
Use the Right Needle: A dull or wrong type of needle can damage your fabric or cause skipped stitches.
Test First: Sew a sample hem on scrap fabric. Check the stitch, tension, and how it looks.
Go Slow: Do not rush when sewing the hem line. Sew at a steady, medium speed.
Measure Often: As you fold and pin, check your measurements. Make sure the hem allowance is still even.
Handle Corners: How you turn the hem at corners (like on napkins or curtains) is important. You can miter corners (cut away bulk) for a flatter finish.
Weight Matters: The weight of your fabric affects the hem type. Heavy fabrics need wider hems. Light fabrics work well with narrower or rolled hems.
Hem Tape: For some fabrics, or to add weight, you can use hem tape inside the fold before pressing and sewing.

These tips can help you get a professional result with your sewing machine hem techniques.

Common Hemming Problems and Fixes

Uneven Hem: The finished hem width is different in different spots.
- Fix: Measure and press carefully before sewing. Use pins or clips often to hold the fold. Use a hemming guide sewing machine foot.
Wavy Hem: The hem edge is stretched out and does not lie flat. This happens often on stretchy fabrics.
- Fix: Do not pull the fabric as you sew. Use a walking foot if you have one. Try a lighter presser foot pressure. Use a stretch stitch if needed. Ironing can sometimes help flatten it.
Skipped Stitches: The machine misses stitches along the hem.
- Fix: Change your needle. Make sure it is the right type and size for your fabric. Re-thread your machine correctly. Check the tension.
Puckered Seam: The fabric gathers up along the stitch line.
- Fix: Check your tension. It might be too tight. Use a longer stitch length. Use the correct needle and thread for the fabric. Do not stretch the fabric as you sew.
Raw Edge Showing: For a double fold hem, the raw edge pokes out or is not caught by the stitching.
- Fix: Make sure your second fold is wide enough to cover the first fold (the raw edge). Sew closer to the top folded edge.

Troubleshooting helps you learn and improve your sewing machine hem techniques.

Grasping Different Hem Types

Here is a quick look at some types of hems sewing machine can help you create:

Hem Type	Description	Fabric Type	Sewing Machine Technique	Special Foot Needed?
Double Fold	Edge folded up twice, raw edge hidden.	Most fabrics, medium- to heavy-weight	Straight stitch close to top fold	Optional (Edge Guide)
Single Fold	Edge finished (serged, zigzagged) then folded once.	Fabrics that don’t fray much, or finished edges	Straight stitch on the finished edge	Optional (Edge Guide)
Blind Hem	Stitch is almost invisible from right side.	Dresses, skirts, pants, curtains	Blind hem stitch pattern	Yes (Blind Hem Foot)
Rolled Hem	Very narrow, tightly rolled edge.	Light, sheer fabrics	Straight stitch or small zigzag while rolling	Yes (Rolled Hem Foot)
Facing Hem	Separate piece of fabric sewn to edge and turned inside.	Shaped edges, curves	Straight stitch	No
Bound Hem	Edge wrapped in bias tape or fabric strip.	Can be any fabric, decorative	Straight stitch	No

This table summarizes some common types of hems sewing machine users might choose. The double fold and blind hem are very popular for clothing.

Frequently Asked Questions About Hemming

How wide should a hem be?
It depends on the project and fabric. Pants hems are often 1.5 to 2 inches wide. Skirt hems can be 1 to 3 inches. Shirt hems are often 1/2 to 1 inch. Very light fabrics might have narrower hems or rolled hems. Heavy fabrics need wider hems to hang well.
How much fabric do I need for a hem allowance?
For a double fold hem, you need twice the finished hem width. If you want a 1-inch finished hem, you need 2 inches of fabric allowance. For a blind hem, you usually need 2 to 3 inches allowance. Rolled hems need very little, maybe 1/2 inch.
Can I sew a hem without an iron?
You can, but it is much harder to get a neat, straight hem. Pressing the folds makes a crisp line to sew along. It makes a big difference in how professional your hem looks. It’s highly recommended to iron.
My machine doesn’t have a blind hem stitch. What can I do?
You can sew a very narrow double fold hem. Or you can finish the edge and sew a single fold hem. Another option is to sew a narrow zigzag stitch close to the edge after folding it up once. This is not a true blind hem but can be less visible than a straight stitch.
What is the difference between hemming and serging?
Hemming is the process of finishing the edge of fabric, usually by folding and sewing it down. Serging (or overlocking) is a type of stitch made by a serger machine. It wraps thread around the fabric edge. Serging is often used to finish the raw edge before hemming, or as a finish instead of a hem on knits (like the bottom of a t-shirt).
How do I hem a circle skirt?
Circle skirts have a curved edge. This makes a double fold hem tricky because the fabric wants to bunch up. A narrow hem, rolled hem, or a blind hem works well. Sometimes you need to ease in the fabric or gather the top edge of the hem allowance slightly before folding and pressing. Using fusible hem tape designed for curves can also help.

In Closing

Sewing a hem on your sewing machine is a basic but important skill. It gives your projects a clean, finished look. By learning how to measure and press a hem, choosing the right sewing machine settings for hemming, and trying different sewing machine hem techniques like the double fold hem sewing machine method or the blind hem stitch sewing machine method, you can make your handmade items look polished and last longer. Practice makes perfect! Start with simple projects and soon you will be hemming like a pro.