Easy Guide: How To Sew A Patch With A Sewing Machine

How To Sew A Patch With A Sewing Machine
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Easy Guide: How To Sew A Patch With A Sewing Machine

Adding patches to clothes or bags with a sewing machine is a great way to show off your style or fix a hole. It’s much faster and stronger than sewing by hand. You can easily attach patches to many fabrics, like how to machine sew patches on denim. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, step by simple step, making it easy for anyone to give it a try.

What You Need To Get Started

Getting ready to sew a patch is easy. You just need a few things. Having everything ready before you start makes the job go smoothly.

Your patch: Pick the one you want to use.
The item you want to sew it on: This could be a jacket, bag, jeans, shirt, etc.
A sewing machine: Any basic machine will work.
Thread: Choose a color that matches your patch edge or the fabric, or one that stands out if you like. Strong polyester thread is usually best.
Scissors: Small ones are good for cutting threads. Fabric scissors for any prep work.
Pins: To hold the patch in place.
Marking tool: Like chalk or a fabric pen, to mark where the patch goes (optional).
Iron and ironing board: Helpful for pressing fabric and maybe the patch.
Stabilizer (optional but helpful): Helps the fabric stay flat while sewing.
Fusible web (optional but helpful): Sticks the patch down before you sew it.

Picking the Right Parts for Your Machine

Using the right parts on your sewing machine helps make sure your patch stays on tight and looks nice. Don’t worry, it’s not hard to pick the right ones.

Selecting the Best Needle Type for Patches

The sewing machine needle type for patches matters a lot. The right needle stops stitches from skipping and stops the needle from breaking, especially on tough fabrics like denim or thick patches.

For Jeans or Denim: Use a Denim Needle. These needles are very strong. They have a sharp, strong point that can push through thick denim fabric without breaking. This is important for how to machine sew patches on denim.
For Medium Fabrics: Use a Universal Needle. This is a good all-around needle. It works for cotton, linen, and other fabrics that aren’t too thick or too thin. Most patches will work with a universal needle if your fabric isn’t super thick.
For Knit Fabrics: Use a Ballpoint Needle. If you’re sewing a patch onto a t-shirt or stretchy fabric, a ballpoint needle is best. It has a rounded tip that pushes fabric fibers aside instead of piercing them. This stops holes or runs in knit fabric.
For Machine Sewing Embroidered Patches: Embroidered patches can be thick and stiff. A Denim Needle or a strong Universal Needle (size 90/14 or 100/16) is usually a good choice. Sometimes a Sharp/Microtex Needle is good if the patch is very dense, as it has a very sharp point.

Choose a needle size that matches the fabric and patch thickness. Bigger numbers mean thicker needles. For patches, sizes 90/14 or 100/16 are often good starting points, especially for attaching patches to jackets by machine.

Choosing the Right Sewing Foot for Applying Patches

Your sewing machine has different feet that help guide the fabric. The sewing foot for applying patches can make the job easier.

Standard Presser Foot: This is the foot that comes with your machine. It works for most straight sewing. You can use this for sewing around simple patch shapes with a straight stitch.
Applique Foot (or Open Toe Foot): This foot is great because it has a wide opening or no front at all. This lets you see exactly where your needle is going. This is super helpful when you are sewing close to the edge of the patch, especially if you’re using a zig-zag stitch or sewing around a detailed shape. It helps you stitch neatly and accurately.
Walking Foot: If you are sewing onto something slippery or very thick, like a quilted jacket, a walking foot can help. It helps feed the layers of fabric evenly, stopping the patch or fabric from shifting or puckering. This can be helpful when attaching patches to jackets by machine.

For most patches, the standard foot or an applique/open toe foot will work just fine. If you have one, try the applique foot to see how much better you can see where you are sewing.

Deciding on the Right Sewing Machine Stitch for Patches

The sewing machine stitch for patches you pick depends on how you want it to look and how strong you need it to be.

Straight Stitch: This is the simplest stitch. It’s strong and good for patches that have a finished edge that won’t fray. Sew just inside the edge of the patch, or right on the edge. Make the stitch length medium (around 2.5 mm).
Zig-Zag Stitch: This stitch goes back and forth. It’s great for patches with edges that might fray or if you want to sew right on the edge for a finished look. You sew with the right swing of the zig-zag going just off the patch edge onto the fabric. This stitch helps grab both the patch and the fabric edge firmly. You can change the width and length of the zig-zag. A wider, shorter zig-zag makes a thick line of stitches.
Blanket Stitch or Buttonhole Stitch: Some machines have special stitches that look like hand sewing. A blanket stitch can be used to go around the patch edge for a decorative and strong hold, especially good for felt patches. A buttonhole stitch is very dense and strong, like a tight zig-zag, and can make a very secure edge.
Blind Hem Stitch (with adjustments): On some patches, especially embroidered ones with a finished border, you might want stitches that don’t show much on the front of the patch border. You can use a blind hem stitch. Set the machine so the straight stitches go inside the patch border and the little zig-zag catches just the edge of the border. This takes practice!

For most patches, a simple straight stitch or a medium zig-zag stitch is perfect. A straight stitch is less noticeable, while a zig-zag adds more security and a finished look to the edge.

Setting the Correct Sewing Machine Tension for Patches

Getting the sewing machine tension for patches right is important so your stitches look good and hold strong. Tension is how tight the thread is as it goes through the machine.

What is Tension? Your machine has two threads: one from the top spool and one from the bobbin underneath. Tension makes sure these two threads lock together nicely in the middle of the fabric layers.
How to Check Tension: Sew a few stitches on a scrap piece of the same fabric you’re using. Look at the stitches on both the top and bottom.
- Top Thread Looping on Bottom: If the top thread looks straight on top, but loops are showing on the bottom side, the top tension is too tight. Make the top tension number smaller.
- Bottom Thread Looping on Top: If the bottom thread looks straight on the bottom, but loops are showing on the top side, the top tension is too loose (or bobbin tension is too tight, but usually adjusting the top is enough). Make the top tension number bigger.
- Perfect Tension: Both top and bottom stitches should look the same, with the threads meeting nicely in the middle of the fabric.
Adjusting for Patches: When sewing patches, especially thicker ones or on denim, you might need to slightly increase your top tension number (make it a little tighter). This helps pull the bobbin thread up enough to make a strong lock through all the layers. Always test on a scrap first! Most of the time, your machine’s normal tension setting will work, but be ready to adjust if needed.

Don’t be afraid to play with the tension dial a little on scrap fabric until the stitches look balanced.

Getting Ready: Preparing Patch and Fabric

Proper prep work makes sewing the patch much easier and ensures it stays put right where you want it.

Preparing Your Fabric Item

Before you attach the patch, get your item ready.

Wash and Dry (Optional but Recommended): If it’s a new item, washing and drying it first helps shrink it before you add the patch. This stops the patch from getting wavy or puckered after you wash it later. Make sure it’s clean and dry.
Iron the Fabric: Iron the area where the patch will go. This gives you a smooth surface to work on. Remove any wrinkles or creases.
Decide on Placement: Figure out exactly where you want the patch. Try it in different spots. Think about how it will look and if it will be easy to sew there on your machine (e.g., is it on a seam? A small pocket?). Use pins to mark the area if needed, or a fabric marker.

Securing the Patch in Place

Once you know where the patch goes, you need to stick it down so it doesn’t move while you sew. There are a few ways to do this.

Using Fusible Web for Machine Patch Sewing

Using fusible web for machine patch sewing is a great method, especially for beginners. Fusible web is a thin material that looks like a web of glue. You put it between the patch and the fabric, iron it, and it melts, sticking the patch down. This holds the patch firmly so you don’t need as many pins.

Cut the Fusible Web: Cut a piece of fusible web slightly smaller than your patch. You don’t want it to stick out the sides.
Attach to Patch (Usually): Most fusible web has paper on one or both sides. Follow the product directions, but usually you iron the web (paper side up) onto the back of the patch. Let it cool.
Peel the Paper: Peel off the paper backing from the fusible web on the patch. Now the back of the patch is sticky.
Position and Iron onto Fabric: Place the patch (sticky side down) onto your fabric where you want it. Cover with a press cloth (a thin piece of cotton fabric) to protect your patch and iron. Iron over the patch firmly for the time recommended by the fusible web instructions (usually 10-15 seconds). The heat melts the glue, sticking the patch to the fabric.
Let Cool: Let the patch and fabric cool completely before trying to sew it.

Using fusible web makes the machine sew patch tutorial step easier because the patch won’t shift. However, fusible web alone is often not strong enough to hold a patch permanently, especially through washing. You still need to sew it on for real security.

Other Ways to Hold the Patch

Pins: Use several pins to hold the patch in place. Pin from the middle out to the edges. Make sure pins are well away from where your needle will sew. You’ll need to remove them as you sew.
Temporary Fabric Glue: Use a small amount of temporary fabric glue stick or liquid glue made for sewing. Apply it to the back of the patch edges, press onto the fabric, and let it dry a little. This holds the patch without pins. Make sure the glue is temporary and designed for sewing, so it doesn’t gum up your needle or wash out later.
Hand Basting: For very tricky placements or large patches, you can quickly hand sew the patch in place with a few large, loose stitches. This is called basting. You remove these stitches after machine sewing.

Using Stabilizer When Sewing Patches

Using stabilizer when sewing patches is a good idea, especially if the fabric is thin, stretchy, or if the patch is very thick and stiff (like many machine sewing embroidered patches). Stabilizer is a material that goes under the fabric where you are sewing. It gives the fabric more body and stops it from stretching, puckering, or getting wavy as you sew through multiple layers.

What it Does: Stabilizer keeps the fabric flat and steady. This helps the machine feed the fabric smoothly and keeps your stitches even and neat.
Types of Stabilizer:
- Tear-Away: This is the most common type for patches. It’s like stiff paper or fabric. You place it under your main fabric where the patch will go. After sewing, you just gently tear away the extra stabilizer from around the stitches.
- Cut-Away: This type feels more like soft fabric. You cut away the extra after sewing, but some stays under the stitches. This is best for very stretchy fabrics or designs that need lots of stitch support.
- Wash-Away: This stabilizer dissolves in water. Good if you don’t want any stabilizer left at all.
How to Use It:
1. Cut a piece of stabilizer a bit larger than your patch.
2. Place it under the fabric item, right behind where the patch will sit on the top.
3. You can hold the stabilizer in place with temporary spray adhesive or pins, or just hold it carefully as you sew.
4. Sew the patch onto the fabric (with the stabilizer underneath).
5. Once sewn, remove the stabilizer. For tear-away, gently pull it away from the stitches. For cut-away, carefully cut it with scissors close to the stitches.

Using stabilizer helps you sew neater stitches and keeps the fabric from getting distorted around the patch, making the final result look more professional.

Starting to Sew: Your Machine Sew Patch Tutorial

Now that everything is ready, it’s time for the fun part: sewing! Here is a step-by-step machine sew patch tutorial.

Setting Up Your Machine

Thread Your Machine: Make sure your machine is threaded correctly with your chosen thread color. Put the bobbin in too.
Install the Right Needle: Put in the needle you chose based on your fabric (denim, universal, etc.). Make sure it’s in correctly and tightened.
Attach the Right Foot: Clip on the presser foot you want to use (standard, applique, etc.).
Set Stitch and Settings:
- Choose your sewing machine stitch for patches (straight or zig-zag).
- Set the stitch length (maybe 2.5 mm for straight, or shorter for zig-zag).
- If using zig-zag, set the stitch width. Test on a scrap to see how wide you want it – maybe 2-3 mm to start, adjust wider if needed to catch the edge.
- Check your sewing machine tension for patches on a fabric scrap with the same number of layers (fabric + patch + stabilizer if using). Adjust if needed.

Positioning and Starting

Place the Item: Put your fabric item under the presser foot so the patch is in the right spot for you to start sewing. If you’re attaching patches to jackets by machine, you might need to get creative with folding or rolling parts of the jacket out of the way so only the area you’re sewing is under the machine arm. This is often the trickiest part with jackets or bags.
Lower the Presser Foot: Lower the foot onto the patch/fabric. This holds the layers in place.
Lower the Needle: Turn the handwheel on the side of your machine towards you to lower the needle right where you want to start sewing. Start in a spot that will be easy to finish neatly, maybe near the bottom or side. For a zig-zag stitch, position the needle so the right swing of the zig-zag will land just off the patch edge. For a straight stitch, position it just inside the patch edge.

Sewing Around the Patch

Start Sewing: Begin sewing slowly. Most machines have a speed control – turn it down. Keep your fingers away from the needle!
Guide the Fabric: Use your hands to gently guide the fabric and patch. Don’t push or pull the fabric hard; let the machine’s feed dogs do the work. Your hands are just guiding the direction.
Follow the Edge: Sew slowly around the edge of the patch. If the patch is a simple shape (circle, square), this is easier. If it has a complex shape, you will need to stop often with the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric a little, lower the foot, and keep sewing. Leaving the needle down acts like an anchor and stops the patch from shifting when you pivot.
Sewing How to Machine Sew Patches on Denim: Denim is thick. Go slowly. The right needle (denim needle) and slightly increased tension will help. The machine might sound louder or work harder; this is normal. Just take your time.
Machine Sewing Embroidered Patches: These can also be thick. Go slowly, especially if sewing through a dense embroidered border. Use a strong needle and potentially stabilizer underneath.

Finishing the Stitch

Sew to the Start: Keep sewing carefully around the patch until you overlap your starting stitches by about 1 cm (half an inch).
Secure the Stitch: To stop the stitches from coming undone, use the machine’s reverse stitch button. Sew backward a few stitches over where you started, then forward again a few stitches. This is called backstitching.
Lift Foot and Needle: Once secured, make sure your needle is in its highest position. Lift the presser foot.
Cut Threads: Gently pull the fabric away from the machine. Use your small scissors to cut the threads close to the fabric.

Finishing Up

You’re almost done! A few final steps make sure your patch looks great and stays secure.

Trim Threads: Look closely at the patch and the back of the fabric. Trim away any loose or long threads close to the stitching.
Remove Pins/Stabilizer: If you used pins, make sure you got them all. If you used tear-away stabilizer, carefully tear it away from the back. If you used cut-away, trim it neatly. If you used wash-away, follow its instructions (usually a quick rinse).
Press the Patch: Turn the item over so the patch is face down on your ironing board. Put a press cloth over it. Gently press with a warm iron. You can also press from the front with a press cloth. This helps set the stitches and makes the patch lie flat.

Your machine sew patch tutorial is complete! You have successfully attached your patch.

What If Something Goes Wrong? Troubleshooting Simple Issues

Sometimes things don’t go perfectly the first time. Here are easy fixes for common problems.

Skipping Stitches: This usually means your needle is bent, dull, or the wrong type for the fabric/patch thickness. Try changing the needle to a fresh one of the correct type (like a denim needle for thick fabric). Re-thread your machine carefully. Check that the needle is inserted all the way up and facing the right way.
Fabric Puckering (getting wavy or gathered): This can happen if the tension is too tight, the stitch length is too long, or you didn’t use stabilizer on thin/stretchy fabric. Try slightly loosening the top tension. Shorten the stitch length a little. If you didn’t use stabilizer, next time try adding some. Also, make sure you aren’t pushing or pulling the fabric as you sew; just guide it gently.
Thread Breaking: This can be bad tension, a bent/wrong needle, or old/poor quality thread. Check your tension. Change your needle. Use good quality thread. Make sure the machine is threaded correctly.
Patch Shifts While Sewing: This means it wasn’t held securely enough before you started. Next time, use more pins, temporary glue, or fusible web. Sewing slowly and pivoting carefully also helps. Using stabilizer can also make the fabric less likely to shift.

Don’t get frustrated if you have a problem. Sewing takes practice! Just try to figure out what went wrong and try again.

Tips for Better Patch Sewing

Here are a few extra tips to help you get the best results:

Practice on Scraps: Before sewing on your final item, take a scrap of the same fabric and a similar patch (or just two layers of the fabric). Practice sewing around it. Test your stitch type, length, width, and tension. This lets you get it right before sewing on the real thing.
Sew Slowly: There is no rush! Sewing slowly gives you more control, especially when going around curves or corners. It helps you follow the patch edge neatly.
Check Your Bobbin: Make sure you have enough thread on your bobbin before you start sewing the patch. Running out halfway through is annoying!
Think About Placement: For jackets or bags, place the patch where you can easily get the fabric flat under the machine’s needle. Pockets, thick seams, or areas right next to zippers can be tricky.

Why Machine Sewing is Great for Patches

You might wonder why machine sew when you could iron or hand sew. Attaching patches to jackets by machine or jeans is generally the best way for long-lasting hold.

Security: Machine stitches are much stronger and more durable than iron-on glue or hand stitches (unless you are an expert hand sewer). Patches sewn by machine are much less likely to peel off or fray, especially after washing.
Speed: Sewing a patch by machine is much faster than sewing it by hand, especially for larger patches.
Neatness: With a little practice, a sewing machine can create very even and neat stitches around the patch edge.

While iron-on patches are easy, the glue often weakens over time, especially in the wash. It’s always a good idea to iron and then machine sew patches that come with iron-on backing for the strongest hold.

Caring for Your Patched Items

Once your patch is sewn on, you want it to last.

Washing: It’s often best to wash items with patches inside out. This protects the patch edges from getting snagged in the washing machine. Use a gentle cycle if possible. Cold or warm water is better than hot.
Drying: Air drying is best for items with patches. High heat in a dryer can sometimes affect the patch or the stitching, especially if you used any fusible material. If you must use a dryer, use a low heat setting.

Taking a little care when washing will keep your machine-sewn patches looking good for a long time.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

h4> What is the best sewing machine stitch for patches?

A straight stitch sewn just inside the edge is common and strong. A zig-zag stitch sewn on the edge is also very popular as it secures the edge and helps prevent fraying. Both work well; the best choice depends on the patch edge and the look you want.

h4> What is the easiest way how to machine sew patches on denim?

Use a denim needle (size 90/14 or 100/16). Place the patch and hold it securely (pins, glue, or fusible web). Go slowly, guiding the thick fabric layers carefully under the presser foot. Increase the top tension slightly if needed to get balanced stitches.

h4> What sewing machine needle type for patches should I use?

Use a Denim needle for thick fabrics like jeans or canvas. Use a Universal needle for most other fabrics. Use a Ballpoint needle for stretchy knit fabrics. Choose a size that matches the thickness of the fabric and patch layers (like 90/14 or 100/16 for thicker projects).

h4> Should I bother using stabilizer when sewing patches?

Yes, it’s highly recommended, especially on thin, stretchy, or very thick/embroidered patches. Stabilizer keeps the fabric flat and steady, helping you sew neater stitches and stopping the fabric from puckering or stretching around the patch. Tear-away stabilizer is usually good for patches.

h4> Is there a special sewing foot for applying patches?

While you can use a standard foot, an Applique foot (or Open Toe foot) is great because you can see the needle and the patch edge clearly. This helps you sew precisely around the patch shape. A walking foot can help on very thick or slippery items like jackets.

h4> What’s the difference when machine sewing embroidered patches?

Embroidered patches are often thicker and stiffer than printed ones, especially around the border. You’ll definitely want a strong needle (Denim or heavy Universal) and likely use stabilizer underneath the fabric. Go slowly when sewing through the dense border.

h4> How do I handle the bulk when attaching patches to jackets by machine?

This is the main challenge. Try to get the area where the patch goes as flat as possible under the machine arm. Roll or fold up the rest of the jacket as neatly as you can. Use pins or clips to hold the bulk out of the way. Sometimes you might need to sew slowly in sections, stopping and rearranging the jacket as you go around the patch. A machine with a free arm can help if the patch is going on a sleeve or pant leg.

h4> What should my sewing machine tension for patches be set at?

Start with your machine’s normal tension setting. Sew a test on scrap fabric with the same layers. If the stitches aren’t balanced (loops on top or bottom), adjust the top tension dial. You might need to increase the top tension slightly for thicker fabrics or patches to help the bobbin thread pull through.

h4> Why use using fusible web for machine patch sewing if I have to sew it anyway?

Fusible web is an extra step that makes the sewing much easier. It holds the patch firmly in place without needing lots of pins, which stops the patch from shifting as you sew. It’s like a temporary glue that sets with heat. You still need to sew for a permanent hold, but the fusible web makes the actual sewing part less fiddly.

h4> Can I just follow this machine sew patch tutorial for any patch?

Yes, the basic steps work for almost any sew-on patch on most fabrics. Just remember to pick the right needle and consider using stabilizer based on the patch and fabric type. The main differences will be how you hold the patch in place and which stitch you choose (straight or zig-zag) for the edge finish.

Final Thoughts

Sewing a patch with a sewing machine is a useful skill. It lets you make your clothes or bags unique and fixed well. It’s stronger and lasts longer than other ways. By picking the right needle, foot, and stitch, and taking your time, you can easily add patches to almost anything. This guide showed you the simple steps. Grab your machine and give it a try!