What is interfacing in sewing? Interfacing is a hidden layer of fabric added to certain parts of a garment or sewing project to make them stronger, stiffer, or more stable. Can I use fusible interfacing? Yes, many people use fusible interfacing because it’s easy to attach with heat. Interfacing helps areas like collars, cuffs, waistbands, and facings keep their shape. It also stops fabric from stretching out of shape, especially in knit fabrics or on bias cuts. Think of it like giving your fabric a little extra support where it needs it most. Adding structure to garments and stabilizing fabric with interfacing are key reasons why sewers use it.
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What Interfacing Does for Your Sewing
Interfacing is like the quiet helper inside your projects. It gives body and firmness to areas that would otherwise be floppy or lose their shape.
- Holds Shape: It helps collars stand up, waistbands stay firm, and cuffs look crisp.
- Adds Body: It gives lighter fabrics more substance.
- Prevents Stretching: It stops stretchy or bias cuts from getting longer or wider when you don’t want them to. This is key for stabilizing fabric with interfacing.
- Makes Sewing Easier: It can make thin or slippery fabrics easier to handle and sew.
- Protects Fabric: For areas with buttons or buttonholes, interfacing adds strength so the fabric doesn’t tear.
Knowing how to use interfacing well can make a big difference in how professional your finished project looks. It’s not hard, and this guide will walk you through it.
Learning About Different Types of Sewing Interfacing
Not all interfacing is the same. There are many types of sewing interfacing, and choosing the right one depends on your fabric and what you want the finished piece to feel like.
Interfacing comes in different forms:
- Based on how it attaches: Fusible (irons on) or Sew-in (sewn on).
- Based on how it’s made: Woven, Non-Woven, or Knit.
- Based on how stiff it is: Light, Medium, or Heavyweight.
- Based on color: White or Black are most common.
Let’s look closer at these types.
Fusible vs Sew-In Interfacing: Picking Your Method
This is the first big choice you make. Do you want to iron it on or sew it on? Both have their time and place. Knowing the difference between fusible vs sew-in interfacing helps you choose.
h5. Fusible Interfacing
Fusible interfacing has a dotted glue-like coating on one side. When you press it with a hot iron, this coating melts and sticks to your fabric.
- Pros:
- Fast and easy to attach.
- Doesn’t add stitch lines you have to hide.
- Can make sewing slippery fabrics easier by giving them more grip.
- Cons:
- Heat can damage some delicate fabrics like silks or some synthetics.
- Can sometimes create a slightly stiffer feel than sew-in.
- Can bubble or peel if not applied correctly or if washed improperly later.
- Might not stick well to heavily textured or open-weave fabrics.
You’ll often hear about applying fusible interfacing fabric. It needs heat, moisture (steam sometimes), and pressure to stick correctly. We will cover the steps later.
h5. Sew-In Interfacing
Sew-in interfacing does not have glue. You attach it by sewing it to the fabric piece.
- Pros:
- Safe for all fabric types, including heat-sensitive ones.
- Offers more control over the fabric’s drape.
- Easier to remove if you make a mistake.
- Works well with thick, textured, or open-weave fabrics where glue won’t stick.
- Cons:
- Takes more time to attach because you have to sew it.
- Adds an extra layer of stitching inside your project.
- Can be a bit trickier to handle than fabric with fusible already attached.
Sewing with interfacing means you’ll treat the two layers (fabric and sew-in interfacing) as one during construction.
Exploring How Interfacing is Made
The way interfacing is made affects how it behaves and what it feels like.
h5. Woven Interfacing
Woven interfacing is made like regular fabric, with threads woven over and under each other.
- It has a grainline, just like your main fabric. This means you need to pay attention to how you cut it (more on cutting interfacing techniques soon).
- It drapes like fabric. It adds support while still allowing some natural movement.
- It comes in both fusible and sew-in types.
- Often used for tailored garments, giving a natural, structured look.
h5. Non-Woven Interfacing
Non-woven interfacing is made from fibers matted together, kind of like felt or paper.
- It does not have a grainline. You can cut it in any direction without worrying about stretch. This makes cutting interfacing techniques simpler for this type.
- It’s often less expensive than woven.
- It can feel a bit stiffer or more papery compared to woven interfacing of the same weight.
- Comes in both fusible and sew-in.
- Often used for simple projects, crafts, or areas where a stiff, non-draping result is needed.
h5. Knit Interfacing
Knit interfacing is made from looped threads, like knit fabric.
- It stretches! This is super important.
- It’s designed for use with knit fabrics, so you can stabilize fabric with interfacing without losing the fabric’s stretch.
- Adds support while letting the fabric move.
- Mostly comes in fusible types.
Using knit interfacing on knit fabrics is usually best. Using woven or non-woven might make the knit fabric lose its stretch in that area, which you usually don’t want.
Grasping Interfacing Weights
Just like fabrics, interfacing comes in different weights: light, medium, and heavy.
- Lightweight: Used for delicate fabrics like silk or rayon. Adds just a little bit of body without making the fabric stiff. Good for subtle support in blouses or dresses.
- Mediumweight: The most common type. Used for medium-weight fabrics like cottons, linens, or light wools. Gives a good amount of structure for collars, cuffs, and waistbands on many garments.
- Heavyweight: Used for heavy fabrics like denim, canvas, or upholstery fabrics. Provides strong support and stiffness. Great for bag making, belting, or very structured areas on heavy coats.
The goal is usually to match the interfacing weight to the fabric weight. You want the interfacing to support the fabric, not overpower it.
Choosing Interfacing for Sewing: Making the Right Match
Picking the correct interfacing is vital for a good result. It’s like choosing the right foundation for a building. The best way of choosing interfacing for sewing depends on your fabric and the project area.
Here’s how to think about it:
- Look at Your Fabric:
- Weight: Is it light, medium, or heavy? Choose interfacing of a similar or slightly lighter weight. Don’t use heavy interfacing on lightweight fabric unless you really want a super stiff effect (like for costume pieces).
- Type: Is it woven, knit, or non-woven (like felt)? For knits, use knit interfacing. For wovens, you can use woven or non-woven, but woven often gives a more natural feel. Non-woven can be okay for wovens too, especially for simple projects.
- Care Needs: How will you wash or clean the final item? Make sure your interfacing can handle the same treatment. This is extra important for fusible types. If the fabric needs dry cleaning, use interfacing that can be dry cleaned.
- Color: Does your fabric show through? Use white interfacing on light fabrics and black on dark fabrics to avoid the interfacing color showing.
- Think About the Project Area:
- What shape does it need? Does it need to stand up stiffly (a collar stand), be gently curved (a facing), or just stable (a buttonhole area)?
- Where is it going? Interfacing for facings and collars usually needs medium to heavyweight to give shape. A buttonhole area might just need a small patch of medium weight. A waistband needs firmness, maybe medium or heavy.
- Consider the Desired Look:
- Do you want a crisp, sharp finish (like a men’s shirt collar)? You might layer interfacing or use a slightly heavier weight woven or non-woven.
- Do you want a softer, rolled look (like a jacket collar)? You might use a softer sew-in interfacing or bias-cut woven fusible.
- Test It First!
- This is the most important step! Always test a small piece of your fabric with the interfacing you plan to use.
- If using fusible, apply it to a scrap of your fabric following the instructions. See how it looks, feels, and if it sticks well. Does it make the fabric too stiff? Does it change the fabric’s color or texture?
- If using sew-in, baste it to a fabric scrap. See how the two layers drape together.
Don’t skip the test step. It saves you from potential frustration later.
Cutting Interfacing Techniques
Getting the right size and shape of interfacing is key before you apply it. Cutting interfacing techniques are simple, but there are a few tips.
- Use Your Pattern Pieces: Interfacing is usually cut using the same pattern pieces as the fabric areas you want to support (like facings, collars, cuffs, waistband).
- Follow Grainline (Mostly): If you are using woven interfacing, cut it on the same grain as the fabric piece it will attach to. This helps it behave the same way as the fabric. There are exceptions: sometimes you might cut woven interfacing on the bias for a softer roll in a collar, but this is less common for beginners. Non-woven and knit interfacing do not have a grainline, so you can cut them in any direction.
- Trim Seam Allowances (Sometimes for Fusible): For fusible interfacing, it’s often a good idea to trim a tiny bit off the edges within the seam allowance before you iron it on. Trim maybe 1/8 inch (3mm) off all edges except the edge that will be folded or stitched freely (like the outer edge of a facing).
- Why do this? It reduces bulk in the seams, making them lie flatter. It also prevents the sticky edge of the fusible from getting into your seam allowance and gumming up your needle later.
- Cut Sew-In Interfacing Exactly: For sew-in interfacing, cut it the exact same size as your fabric pattern piece, including seam allowances. You will sew the two layers together within the seam allowance area.
Simple Cutting Summary:
- Woven: On grain, maybe trim seam allowances for fusible.
- Non-Woven/Knit: Any direction, maybe trim seam allowances for fusible.
- Sew-In: Always cut full size, including seam allowances.
Use sharp scissors dedicated to fabric (or interfacing). A rotary cutter can also work well.
Applying Fusible Interfacing Fabric: Step by Step
Applying fusible interfacing fabric is straightforward, but requires attention to heat, moisture, and pressure. Don’t call it ironing – it’s pressing! Pressing fusible interfacing involves holding the iron still in one spot, not sliding it back and forth.
Here are the steps:
- Test First: As mentioned before, always test on a scrap of your fabric and interfacing. This tells you what heat setting, steam amount (if any), and press time works best.
- Prepare Your Fabric: Make sure your fabric piece is clean, dry, and pressed smooth.
- Prepare Your Interfacing: Place the fabric piece wrong side up on your ironing board. Lay the fusible interfacing piece on top, with the bumpy, glue side down touching the wrong side of the fabric. Make sure the edges line up (or that you’ve trimmed the seam allowance as planned).
- Use a Press Cloth: It’s wise to use a press cloth (a piece of thin cotton fabric or a special pressing cloth) between the iron and the interfacing. This protects both your fabric and your iron from any stray glue.
- Set Your Iron: Set your iron to the temperature suggested on the interfacing package. If there are no instructions, start with the wool or cotton setting. Turn off the steam unless the interfacing instructions say to use steam, or your test piece showed it works better with steam. Too much steam can sometimes lead to bubbling.
- Press Firmly: Place the iron onto the press cloth over the interfacing. Press straight down firmly. Do not slide the iron. Hold it there for the time recommended by the interfacing maker (usually 10-15 seconds).
- Lift and Repeat: Lift the iron straight up. Move it to the next area, overlapping the last spot slightly. Press down firmly again for the required time. Continue until you have pressed the entire piece of interfacing onto the fabric.
- Let it Cool: This is a crucial step! Let the fabric and interfacing cool completely flat on the ironing board. Don’t move it or pick it up while it’s hot. The glue needs to cool and set to create a strong bond. This takes several minutes.
- Check Adhesion: Once cool, gently lift an edge to check if the interfacing is fully stuck. If there are loose spots, place the press cloth back, and press that area again.
Common Mistakes When Pressing Fusible Interfacing:
- Ironing, Not Pressing: Sliding the iron pushes the glue around and can cause bubbles or wrinkles.
- Not Enough Heat, Time, or Pressure: The glue won’t melt and stick properly.
- Not Letting it Cool: The bond won’t set if you move it while it’s hot.
- Too Much Steam: Can sometimes hinder the glue or cause bubbling.
- Not Testing: You don’t know if the settings are right for your fabric and interfacing combo.
Follow these steps carefully, and you’ll get a smooth, well-attached interfacing layer.
Sewing With Interfacing: Attaching Sew-In Types
Sewing with interfacing that is the sew-in type is simpler in application than fusible, but it involves stitching.
Here’s how to do it:
- Prepare Your Fabric: Make sure your fabric piece is ready to go.
- Prepare Your Interfacing: Cut your sew-in interfacing the exact same size as your fabric pattern piece, including seam allowances.
- Place Layers: Place the sew-in interfacing piece on the wrong side of your fabric piece. The edges should match up perfectly.
- Baste Together: You need to temporarily hold the two layers together.
- Option A (Pinning): Use pins to hold the layers together, placing pins within the seam allowance area so they don’t interfere with your main stitching lines.
- Option B (Basting Stitch): Stitch the two layers together with a long basting stitch just inside the seam allowance, maybe 1/4 inch (6mm) from the raw edge. This is often preferred as it keeps the layers smooth and prevents shifting.
- Option C (Spray Basting): Use a temporary fabric adhesive spray designed for sewing. Lightly spray the wrong side of the interfacing and press it onto the fabric. Test this spray first on scraps to make sure it doesn’t harm your fabric or leave residue.
- Treat as One Piece: Now, treat the fabric piece with the interfacing attached as a single layer of fabric. Any sewing lines you need to make (like stitching the facing to the garment) will go through both the fabric and the sew-in interfacing at the same time.
- Trim Seam Allowance (Optional but Recommended): After sewing the main seam (e.g., attaching a facing), you might want to trim the seam allowance of the sew-in interfacing layer to reduce bulk. Trim it smaller than the fabric’s seam allowance before you press the seam open or to one side.
Sew-in interfacing gives you more flexibility with fabrics that can’t handle heat or when you want a very specific drape.
Adding Structure to Garments: Where to Use Interfacing
Interfacing is used in many parts of clothing and other sewing projects to provide adding structure to garments or items. Here are common places you’ll find it:
- Facings: These fabric pieces finish raw edges around necklines, armholes, or waistlines. Interfacing on facings makes them lie flat, keeps the edge from stretching, and gives a clean finish. Interfacing for facings and collars is one of its most common uses.
- Collars: Interfacing gives collars the body they need to stand, roll, or lie flat as designed. Collar stands and the outer collar piece almost always use interfacing. Interfacing for facings and collars is essential for a neat neckline finish.
- Cuffs: Just like collars, cuffs need interfacing to stay crisp and structured around the wrist.
- Waistbands: Interfacing in waistbands prevents them from rolling over and helps them support the weight of skirts or trousers.
- Button Areas: A small piece of interfacing behind buttonholes and buttons adds strength to the fabric so it doesn’t tear with use.
- Plackets: The fabric strips that hold buttons or buttonholes (like on a shirt front) need interfacing for stability.
- Pocket Openings: Interfacing helps pocket edges stay flat and prevents stretching.
- Hems: Sometimes a strip of lightweight interfacing is added to the hem allowance, especially on tricky fabrics, to make the hem press up cleanly.
- Belts and Straps: Interfacing makes belts and straps firm and durable.
- Bags and Wallets: Interfacing, often heavier types, gives bags body and helps them stand up.
Using the right interfacing in these areas makes a big difference in how your finished item looks and wears.
Tips and Tricks for Sewing with Interfacing
- Always Test: We can’t say it enough. Test your interfacing on your specific fabric before you commit.
- Label Pieces: If you cut many identical interfacing pieces, label them lightly with a pencil or fabric pen to know which fabric piece they belong to.
- Trim Bulk: For sew-in interfacing, trim its seam allowance slightly smaller than the fabric’s after stitching to reduce bulk in seams. For fusible, trimming before applying reduces bulk and keeps glue out of seams.
- Match Your Needle: If you’re sewing through layers of fabric and interfacing, make sure your sewing machine needle is sharp and the right size for the fabric layers. A too-small or dull needle can cause skipped stitches or puckering.
- Pressing is Your Friend: Use good pressing techniques throughout your project, especially when attaching fusible interfacing or pressing seams involving sew-in interfacing.
Troubleshooting Common Interfacing Issues
Sometimes things don’t go perfectly. Here are solutions for typical problems:
- Bubbles in Fusible Interfacing: This often happens if you ironed instead of pressed, didn’t use enough heat or pressure, didn’t overlap areas when pressing, or didn’t let it cool properly. Sometimes using steam when you shouldn’t have can also cause bubbles.
- Fix: Try pressing the bubbly area again, using the correct heat, pressure, and press time. Use a press cloth. Make sure it cools flat. If bubbles are bad and won’t go away, you might have to carefully peel it off (sometimes possible while warm, but might damage the fabric) and cut a new piece.
- Fusible Interfacing Won’t Stick: You probably didn’t use enough heat, pressure, or time. Your fabric might be heat-sensitive, have a coating, or be too textured for the glue.
- Fix: Check your iron temperature. Press for longer with more pressure. Ensure the glue side is down. If it still won’t stick after repeating, the interfacing might be old, or it’s not suitable for your fabric. You might need to switch to a sew-in type.
- Interfacing Makes Fabric Too Stiff: You likely chose a weight that is too heavy for your fabric or the desired effect.
- Fix: If it’s sew-in, you might be able to remove it and replace it with a lighter type (though this can be tricky if already sewn into seams). If it’s fusible, it’s usually permanent. For future projects, always test first with a lighter weight.
- Interfacing Shows Through Fabric: You used a color (white on dark or black on light) or weight that is visible from the right side of the fabric.
- Fix: Unfortunately, this is hard to fix once attached. For future projects, use white on light fabrics and black on dark fabrics. Also, ensure the weight isn’t so heavy it affects the fabric’s look. Testing helps prevent this.
Learning More About Interfacing Weights and Types
Let’s look at the different constructions again and where they shine.
h4. Woven Interfacing Details
- Construction: Threads woven like fabric.
- Strengths: Adds support while keeping fabric’s drape, great for tailored looks, stable when cut on grain.
- Weaknesses: Needs grainline attention, can fray if cut on bias unless intended.
- Best For: Garment areas needing structured yet natural shape (collars, cuffs, facings, waistbands in blouses, shirts, jackets). Works well for both woven and stable knit main fabrics.
- Available as: Fusible or Sew-in.
h4. Non-Woven Interfacing Details
- Construction: Matted fibers.
- Strengths: No grainline (easy cutting), stable in all directions, often less expensive, comes in very stiff weights.
- Weaknesses: Can feel a bit stiff or papery, might not drape as naturally as woven.
- Best For: Areas needing firm, non-stretchy support in wovens or stable knits (waistbands, buttonholes, bag making, crafts). Can be used for facings and collars for a crisp, less drapey look.
- Available as: Fusible or Sew-in.
h4. Knit Interfacing Details
- Construction: Looped threads.
- Strengths: Stretches!, adds support to knit fabrics without losing their stretch.
- Weaknesses: Only suitable for knit fabrics (or woven fabrics where you want stretch in the interfaced area, which is rare). Limited stiffness options usually.
- Best For: Neckbands, cuffs, waistbands, and facings on stretchy knit garments. Prevents edges from stretching out but keeps the body of the knit fabric.
- Available as: Primarily Fusible.
Choosing the right type and weight from these categories is part of choosing interfacing for sewing. Think about the desired feel and behavior of the final garment piece.
Using Interfacing for Specific Areas: Examples
Let’s get specific about interfacing for facings and collars and other common uses.
h4. Interfacing a Facing
Facings finish raw edges, usually necklines, armholes, or sometimes waistlines on simple garments.
* Purpose: Keeps the finished edge from stretching, helps the facing lie flat against the body.
* Type/Weight: Often lightweight to mediumweight fusible woven or non-woven. Match the fabric weight. Use knit interfacing for knit fabric facings.
* How to Apply: Cut interfacing using the facing pattern piece. For fusible, trim seam allowances before applying to the wrong side of the facing fabric piece. Press carefully. For sew-in, cut full size and baste to the wrong side of the facing fabric piece.
h4. Interfacing a Collar
Collars shape the neckline of shirts, jackets, or dresses.
* Purpose: Gives the collar body to stand or roll correctly, makes points crisp.
* Type/Weight: Usually medium to heavyweight, often woven fusible for tailoring, but non-woven can give a very crisp finish. Sew-in is also used, especially for tailored garments or fabrics that can’t take heat.
* How to Apply: You usually interface one of the collar pieces – often the undercollar (the one that won’t be seen when worn) or the outer collar. Cut interfacing using the collar pattern piece. Apply using the method for fusible or sew-in as described earlier.
h4. Interfacing Cuffs and Waistbands
These areas need to be quite firm to hold their shape and sometimes support closures like buttons or zippers.
* Purpose: Prevents stretching, provides firmness, supports closures.
* Type/Weight: Medium to heavyweight fusible is common. Woven or non-woven depending on desired stiffness and fabric type. Knit interfacing for knit cuffs/waistbands.
* How to Apply: Cut interfacing using the cuff or waistband pattern piece. Apply fusible to the wrong side of one fabric piece. For sew-in, baste to the wrong side of one piece.
h4. Stabilizing Buttonholes and Buttons
A small patch is enough here.
* Purpose: Strengthens fabric to prevent tearing around buttonholes and anchors.
* Type/Weight: Small squares of mediumweight fusible or sew-in.
* How to Apply: Cut squares slightly larger than the buttonhole length or button placement mark. Apply fusible to the wrong side before making the buttonhole or sewing the button. For sew-in, place behind the area before stitching.
These examples show how adding structure to garments in specific places makes a big difference using interfacing.
Maintaining Your Garments with Interfacing
Once you’ve used interfacing, keep its care in mind.
* Check Care Labels: Always match your interfacing’s care needs to your fabric’s. If your fabric needs hand washing, use hand-washable interfacing. If it’s dry clean only, use dry-cleanable interfacing. This is especially critical for fusible interfacing to prevent it from separating from the fabric.
* Pressing After Washing: After washing a garment with fusible interfacing, you might sometimes see small bubbles or the edge starting to lift. You can often fix this by pressing the area again gently with a press cloth, using the correct heat and pressure, and letting it cool completely flat.
Taking proper care helps your interfacing do its job for a long time.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
h5. Do I have to use interfacing?
For many areas like collars, cuffs, and waistbands, using interfacing is highly recommended for a professional, durable result. For some simple projects or very stable fabrics, you might get away without it, but using it often improves the final look and feel.
h5. Can I use fusible interfacing on knit fabric?
Yes, but it’s best to use fusible knit interfacing. This type stretches and moves with the fabric. Using woven or non-woven fusible on a knit fabric will make that interfaced area stiff and non-stretchy, which might not be what you want.
h5. How do I know which side of fusible interfacing is the glue side?
The glue side usually feels bumpy, textured, or has tiny shiny dots on it. The non-glue side is smooth like plain fabric. The glue side goes against the wrong side of your main fabric.
h5. My fusible interfacing isn’t sticking. Why?
Common reasons include not enough heat, not enough pressure, not holding the iron in place long enough, not letting it cool completely, or the fabric being unsuitable (like very textured or coated). Always test first!
h5. Can I use sew-in interfacing instead of fusible?
Yes, almost always. Sew-in is a good alternative if you’re worried about heat or using a tricky fabric. Remember to cut it the same size as the fabric piece and baste it in place before sewing.
h5. What does “grainline” mean for interfacing?
For woven interfacing, the grainline is the direction the threads run, just like regular fabric. Cutting on the straight grain (parallel to the selvage) gives stability. Cutting on the crossgrain (perpendicular to the selvage) gives a bit less stability. Cutting on the bias (45-degree angle) gives stretch and drape. Pay attention to the pattern piece’s grainline symbol when cutting woven interfacing. Non-woven and knit interfacing don’t have a grainline.
Wrapping Up
Interfacing is a simple but powerful tool in sewing. It helps you create beautiful, long-lasting garments and projects by adding strength and shape where needed. By understanding the different types of sewing interfacing, knowing the difference between fusible vs sew-in interfacing, practicing applying fusible interfacing fabric or sewing with interfacing, and focusing on careful cutting interfacing techniques and pressing fusible interfacing, you can confidently tackle any project. Remember to always test first and match your interfacing to your fabric and the desired effect. Whether you’re adding structure to garments like collars, cuffs, or waistbands, or just stabilizing fabric with interfacing for buttonholes or facings (interfacing for facings and collars), the right interfacing makes all the difference. Happy sewing!