Why do sewing machine needles keep breaking? Needles usually break when they hit something they shouldn’t, like parts of your sewing machine or thick, tough spots in your fabric. This happens for many reasons. Maybe the needle isn’t right for the job, it wasn’t put in correctly, or something inside the machine is out of line. Sometimes, how you handle the fabric causes the break. Let’s look closely at why this happens and how you can fix it.
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Starting with the Needle
The sewing machine needle is a small but vital part. It goes through the fabric, makes a loop of thread, and grabs the bobbin thread to create a stitch. If the needle isn’t right or isn’t in good shape, it can bend or snap.
Picking the Right Needle
One big reason needles break is using the wrong needle for the job. Needles come in different sizes and types. Each one is made for certain fabrics or threads.
Think of needles like tools in a toolbox. You wouldn’t use a tiny screwdriver for a big screw. The same is true for sewing needles.
There’s a system for needle sizes. It often shows two numbers, like 80/12 or 90/14. The first number is the European size (metric). It tells you the diameter of the needle shaft in hundredths of a millimeter (e.g., 80 means 0.8 mm). The second number is the American size (Singer). These numbers tell you how thick the needle is. A bigger number means a thicker, stronger needle.
Needles also have different points.
* Universal: Good for woven fabrics and some knits. A general-purpose needle.
* Ballpoint: Has a rounded tip. It pushes fabric fibers aside instead of cutting them. Best for knits and stretch fabrics. This stops skipped stitches and holes.
* Stretch: Like a ballpoint but with a special eye and scarf area. Helps prevent skipped stitches on very stretchy fabrics like Spandex.
* Denim/Jeans: Very strong shaft with a sharp point. Made to sew through thick, dense fabrics like denim, canvas, and heavy twill.
* Leather: Has a sharp, wedge-shaped point. It cuts through leather and vinyl. You should only use these on leather or fake leather. They make permanent holes.
* Microtex/Sharp: Very thin, sharp point. Great for very fine fabrics like silk or microfiber. Also good for very straight stitches on woven fabrics and detailed work.
* Quilting: A strong needle with a special taper. Helps it go through multiple layers of fabric and batting without bending.
Checking the Chart for Needle Size
Knowing which needle to use is key. Here’s a simple Sewing machine needle size chart to help you choose:
| Fabric Type | Needle Type | Common Sizes (Metric/Singer) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Very Fine/Lightweight (Silk, Organza, Lace) | Microtex/Sharp | 60/8, 65/9 | Prevents snags, makes tiny holes. |
| Lightweight (Cotton Lawn, Rayon, Shirting) | Universal, Microtex | 70/10, 75/11 | General sewing, fine details. |
| Medium Weight (Quilting Cotton, Linen, Broadcloth) | Universal | 80/12 | Most common size for everyday sewing. |
| Medium-Heavy Weight (Poplin, Gabardine, Light Canvas) | Universal, Denim | 90/14 | Stronger for slightly thicker fabrics. |
| Heavy Weight (Denim, Upholstery, Corduroy, Canvas) | Denim/Jeans | 100/16, 110/18 | Cuts through thick layers. |
| Very Heavy Weight (Heavy Denim, Layers of Canvas) | Denim/Jeans | 110/18, 120/19 | Strongest needles for thickest materials. |
| Knits (Jersey, Sweatshirt Fleece, Interlock) | Ballpoint | 70/10, 80/12 | Pushes fibers, prevents holes/runs. |
| Very Stretchy Knits (Spandex, Lycra) | Stretch | 75/11, 90/14 | Designed for maximum stretch fabrics. |
| Leather, Vinyl, Suede | Leather | 90/14, 100/16, 110/18 | Cuts through non-woven materials. |
Using the Wrong fabric type with the wrong needle is a major issue.
* Trying to sew thick denim with a small, thin needle (like a 70/10) will cause the needle to bend or snap under the pressure. The needle isn’t strong enough to push through the tight weave and multiple layers.
* Using a sharp Microtex needle on a knit fabric might cut threads instead of pushing them aside. This can cause runs or holes in the fabric and stress the needle, making it more likely to bend or break.
* Using a Universal needle on heavy canvas might not penetrate correctly, leading to skipped stitches, a stressed machine, and a breaking needle.
Always match the needle size and type to the fabric you are sewing. If you are sewing through multiple layers, consider using a size or two larger than you would for a single layer.
How the Needle Goes In
Even the right needle can break if it’s not put into the machine correctly. Incorrect needle installation is a very common cause of broken needles.
Every standard sewing machine needle has a flat side on the top part (the shank). This flat side must face the back of the machine. The round side with the long groove faces the front (towards you). The long groove guides the thread down to the needle’s eye. The short groove, above the eye, is where the bobbin hook picks up the thread loop.
If the needle is turned the wrong way, even just a little bit, the bobbin hook might hit the needle. This collision happens very fast and with force, easily causing the needle to bend or snap.
Here’s how to install a needle correctly:
1. Turn the machine off. Safety first!
2. Raise the needle bar to its highest point. You can usually do this by turning the handwheel towards you.
3. Loosen the needle clamp screw. Don’t take it all the way out, just enough so the old needle can slide out.
4. Pull the old needle straight down and out.
5. Take the new needle. Hold it with the flat side facing the back of the machine.
6. Push the new needle straight up into the needle clamp as far as it will go. Make sure it’s seated all the way at the top. You might feel it stop.
7. Hold the needle in place while you tighten the needle clamp screw firmly. You can use a small screwdriver that came with your machine or your fingers if the screw allows. Don’t overtighten, but make sure it’s snug.
8. Double-check the needle is facing the right way and is pushed all the way up.
If the needle isn’t pushed all the way up, it will be sitting too low. This causes big problems. The eye of the needle might be too low when the bobbin hook comes by. The hook will hit the needle instead of catching the thread loop. This collision leads to a broken needle.
Is Your Needle Okay?
Needles don’t last forever. They get dull, bent, or damaged over time. Using a Bent sewing machine needle or a dull one is another big reason for breaks.
A dull needle has trouble piercing the fabric. It needs more force to push through. This puts extra stress on the needle, the thread, and the machine. On dense fabrics, a dull needle might just stop or deflect instead of going through, leading to a break.
A bent needle is even worse. Even a slight bend is a problem. As the machine sews, the needle goes up and down thousands of times per minute. If it’s bent, its path isn’t straight. It might wobble. This wobble can cause it to hit parts of the machine, like the throat plate, the bobbin case, or the hook. Any of these hits can cause the needle to snap.
How can you tell if a needle is dull or bent?
* Dull: Look at the tip closely (use a magnifying glass if needed). It should be sharp and pointed. If it looks rounded or damaged, it’s dull. On woven fabrics, a dull needle might make a popping sound as it forces its way through the threads.
* Bent: Take the needle out of the machine. Place the flat side down on a perfectly flat surface, like a glass table or a mirror. If the needle lies perfectly flat against the surface, it’s straight. If you can see any gap between the needle shaft and the surface, it’s bent.
You should change your needle often. A good rule is to change it for every new project or after 8-10 hours of sewing. This keeps your stitches looking good and helps prevent needle breaks. Changing it when you switch fabric types is also wise.
What Happens Inside the Machine
Sometimes the problem isn’t just the needle itself or how it was put in. Issues with the machine’s parts and how they work together can also cause needles to break.
Where the Needle Goes Down (Throat Plate)
The throat plate is the metal plate on the bed of your sewing machine under the needle. It has a small hole or slot that the needle passes through to meet the bobbin thread below.
If the needle hits the throat plate, it will likely break. Why would the needle hit the throat plate?
1. Bent Needle: As discussed, a bent needle doesn’t go straight down. It might hit the edge of the needle hole in the plate.
2. Incorrect Installation: If the needle isn’t pushed all the way up in the clamp, it sits too low. Its path might be off, causing it to hit the plate. If it’s turned the wrong way, it can also hit.
3. Fabric Issues: Sewing over pins, very thick seams, or pulling the fabric hard can deflect the needle sideways just as it’s entering the throat plate hole. This makes it hit the edge.
4. Wrong Presser Foot: Using the wrong presser foot for the stitch pattern selected can cause the needle to hit the foot itself before it even gets to the plate hole, which is similar to hitting the plate. Always use the correct foot for your stitch.
5. Throat Plate Damage: Sometimes the throat plate itself gets damaged. Past needle breaks might have left small burrs or rough edges around the needle hole. These can catch the needle or thread, causing further problems and potential breaks. Check your throat plate for damage. If you find any, you might need to replace it.
How the Presser Foot Helps
The presser foot holds the fabric down against the feed dogs as you sew. This allows the feed dogs to move the fabric evenly through the machine. The Presser foot pressure is the amount of force the foot puts down on the fabric.
Most machines let you adjust this pressure. Some have a dial, knob, or screw. Others adjust it automatically.
- Too little pressure: The fabric might lift slightly as the needle goes up. This can cause skipped stitches. It also means the feed dogs can’t grip the fabric well, leading to uneven stitches or the fabric not moving smoothly. This uneven movement can stress the needle.
- Too much pressure: This can make it hard for the feed dogs to move the fabric, especially on thick or sticky fabrics. The fabric might get “stuck” or move in jerks. If you then try to help it by pulling (which you shouldn’t do!), it can bend the needle and cause it to break. Too much pressure on delicate fabrics can also stretch or damage them.
Correct presser foot pressure helps the fabric feed smoothly and evenly. This keeps the needle’s path straight and reduces stress on it. If you’re sewing different types of fabric, check your machine’s manual to see if you should adjust the presser foot pressure. For most general sewing on medium weight fabrics, the default or medium setting is fine.
Machine Parts Working Together (Timing)
Sewing machine timing issues happen when the parts inside your machine don’t move in sync. The most important timing is between the needle bar (which moves the needle up and down) and the bobbin hook (which rotates to catch the thread loop).
Imagine the needle goes down, pushes through the fabric, and starts to come back up. As it rises, it forms a small loop of the upper thread just above the eye. At just the right moment, the bobbin hook spins by and grabs this loop. It pulls the loop around the bobbin case to wrap it around the bobbin thread, making a stitch.
If the timing is off:
* The hook might come too early or too late and miss the thread loop, causing skipped stitches.
* Worse, the hook might collide directly with the needle. This is a hard metal-on-metal hit. It will very likely cause the needle to break, often near the eye or shank.
Timing can get off if you sew over very thick seams, hit a pin hard, pull the fabric aggressively, or if the machine is old or needs service.
Fixing sewing machine timing issues is usually not something you can do yourself. It requires opening up the machine and adjusting internal parts precisely. If you suspect timing is the problem (e.g., you’re getting skipped stitches and broken needles, especially after a hard jam or impact), it’s best to take your machine to a qualified repair technician. They have the tools and knowledge to reset the timing correctly.
How You and Other Things Affect the Needle
Besides the needle and the machine’s inner workings, what you do and the materials you use play a huge role in needle breaks.
Fabric and Thread Choices
We already talked about using the Wrong fabric type with the wrong needle. It’s worth saying again: Always match your needle to your fabric weight and type. Using a delicate needle on denim or a heavy needle on silk is asking for trouble.
The thread you use also matters. Using wrong thread can stress the needle. Thread comes in different weights (thicknesses) and types (cotton, polyester, silk, metallic, etc.).
- Thread Weight vs. Needle Size: The thread needs to pass easily through the eye of the needle and the long groove. If you use very thick thread (like heavy topstitching thread) with a very thin needle (like a 70/10), the thread might not fit or will rub too much inside the needle’s eye and groove. This friction creates heat and stress. It can also make it harder for the thread loop to form correctly, leading to skipped stitches or even causing the needle to deflect and break. Use a needle with an eye large enough for your thread. Needle size charts often suggest thread sizes too. Generally, thicker threads need thicker needles.
- Thread Quality: Low-quality thread can be weak, uneven, or have slubs (thicker spots). These inconsistencies can cause thread breaks or make the thread harder to pull through the fabric and needle, putting stress on the needle.
- Thread Path: Make sure the thread is flowing smoothly from the spool, through all the guides, and through the tension discs. If the thread is snagging, tangled, or not properly tensioned, it can create drag that pulls on the needle.
Always use good quality thread and make sure it’s suitable for both your machine and your fabric.
How You Guide the Fabric
This is one of the most common user errors that lead to broken needles: Pulling fabric while sewing.
Your sewing machine has feed dogs (the little teeth under the presser foot) that are designed to move the fabric through the machine at a steady pace. Your job is mainly to guide the fabric, keeping the seam straight. You should not push or pull the fabric forcefully while the machine is sewing.
What happens if you pull or push?
* You are forcing the fabric to move faster or slower than the feed dogs want to move it.
* This puts sideways pressure on the needle as it’s going up and down through the fabric.
* The needle is designed to move straight up and down. It’s not meant to handle force from the sides.
* This side force bends the needle.
* A bent needle, even slightly, will then hit something – the throat plate, the presser foot, or the bobbin area – and snap.
Think of the needle as a tiny pole. If you push down on it, it’s strong. If you push it from the side, it bends easily.
Always let the machine feed the fabric at its own pace. Keep your hands gently on the fabric to guide it, but don’t force it. If the fabric isn’t feeding well, don’t pull harder! Stop, lift the presser foot, check your presser foot pressure, check for tangled thread, check for lint (see below), and make sure you’re using the right needle.
If you are sewing a very bulky seam or starting right at the edge of lightweight fabric, you might need to help the fabric start feeding by gently guiding it or using a “hump jumper” tool for thick seams. But once the feed dogs have grabbed the fabric, let them do the work.
Keeping Your Machine Clean
A Dirty sewing machine can cause all sorts of problems, including broken needles. Sewing creates a lot of lint and tiny thread fibers. These can build up in key areas of the machine.
Where does lint cause trouble?
* Under the Throat Plate: Lint and thread bits collect around the feed dogs and in the bobbin area. This buildup can make it hard for the feed dogs to grip and move the fabric smoothly. If the fabric feed is jerky, it stresses the needle.
* In the Bobbin Case Area: Lint around the bobbin case or rotary hook can interfere with the smooth movement of the bobbin thread or the hook itself. This can mess with stitch formation and even cause timing issues over time. If the hook’s path is blocked by lint, it might hit the needle.
* Thread Path: Lint can collect in thread guides and tension discs. This prevents the thread from moving freely, increasing thread tension and putting extra stress on the needle.
A build-up of dirt can also slow the machine down or cause internal parts to drag, potentially affecting timing and putting strain on the needle bar mechanism.
Clean your machine regularly.
1. Turn off and unplug the machine.
2. Remove the needle and presser foot.
3. Remove the bobbin case and bobbin (if applicable).
4. Unscrew the throat plate and remove it.
5. Use a small brush (often comes with the machine) to sweep away lint from the feed dogs, the bobbin area, and under the throat plate. Get into all the nooks and crannies.
6. You can use a small vacuum cleaner hose attachment to suck up loose lint, but be careful not to vacuum up any small screws or parts! Canned air can also be used, but some people worry it pushes lint further into the machine. If you use canned air, direct it away from the machine’s interior where possible.
7. Clean around the thread guides and tension discs with a brush or a piece of dental floss (unwaxed).
8. Put everything back together. Check your manual for oiling points if your machine requires regular oiling.
Regular cleaning prevents buildup that stresses the needle and other parts.
Stopping Needle Breaks
To sum it up, most needle breaks come down to the needle hitting something hard. This can be metal parts of the machine or forcing its way through fabric it’s not equipped to handle.
Here are the main things to remember to stop needles from breaking:
- Use the Right Needle: Always choose the correct size and type for your fabric. Check the Sewing machine needle size chart. Don’t use a lightweight needle on heavy fabric or the wrong point on knits or leather.
- Install the Needle Correctly: Make sure the flat side is facing the back and the needle is pushed all the way up into the clamp before tightening the screw. Incorrect needle installation is a frequent issue.
- Use a Sharp, Straight Needle: Change your needle often (every project or 8-10 hours). Never use a Bent sewing machine needle or a dull one. Test needles on a flat surface if you suspect they are bent.
- Check Your Throat Plate: Look for damage around the needle hole. Ensure you’re using the right presser foot for your stitch pattern to prevent the Needle hitting throat plate or foot.
- Adjust Presser Foot Pressure: Make sure the Presser foot pressure is right for your fabric. Too little causes bad feeding; too much makes it hard for fabric to move.
- Use the Right Thread: Match your thread weight to your needle size. Use good quality thread. Ensure the thread path is clear and smooth. Using wrong thread can add stress.
- Let the Machine Feed: Never push or pull the fabric while sewing. Let the feed dogs do their job. Pulling fabric while sewing is a major cause of bent and broken needles.
- Keep Your Machine Clean: Regularly clean out lint and debris, especially around the feed dogs and bobbin area. A Dirty sewing machine doesn’t work smoothly.
- Listen to Your Machine: Pay attention to unusual noises, skipped stitches, or difficulty feeding fabric. These are signs that something is wrong and could lead to a broken needle if not addressed.
- Consider Machine Service: If you’ve checked all the above and needles are still breaking, especially if you hear clicking or grinding noises or have skipped stitches, you might have Sewing machine timing issues. Take your machine to a professional for service.
By following these steps, you can greatly reduce needle breaks, have smoother sewing, and keep your machine running happily.
Quick Answers About Needle Breaks
Here are some fast answers to common questions about needles and why they break.
How often should I change my sewing machine needle?
You should change your needle for every new project or after about 8 to 10 hours of sewing time. Change it also when you switch to a very different type of fabric or if you hit a pin.
Can a dull needle break?
Yes, a dull needle can definitely break. It needs more force to push through fabric. This extra stress can make it bend or snap, especially on dense materials.
Why does my needle only break when sewing over thick seams?
Sewing over thick seams puts extreme pressure on the needle. If you don’t use a needle strong enough for the job (Wrong fabric type/size), pull the fabric (Pulling fabric while sewing), or if your machine’s timing (Sewing machine timing issues) is slightly off, the needle can easily deflect or hit the throat plate (Needle hitting throat plate) and break. Using a thicker needle (Denim/Jeans size) or a “hump jumper” tool can help with thick seams.
Is it okay to sew over pins?
No, you should avoid sewing over pins. The needle can hit a pin, causing it to bend or break. Pieces of a broken needle can fly off, which is very dangerous. Remove pins before the presser foot reaches them.
Why did my needle break right after I put in a new one?
This often happens because of Incorrect needle installation. Make sure the flat side of the needle shank faces the back and the needle is pushed all the way up into the clamp before tightening the screw.
Can thread cause a needle to break?
Yes, using thread that is too thick for the needle eye (Using wrong thread), or thread that is snagging or tangled, can put too much stress on the needle and cause it to bend or break.
My machine sounds like it’s hitting something right before the needle breaks. What could that be?
This sound often means the needle is hitting a metal part of the machine. Common causes are a Bent sewing machine needle, incorrect installation, Needle hitting throat plate edges, or Sewing machine timing issues where the needle hits the bobbin hook or case.
Does cleaning my machine help prevent needle breaks?
Absolutely. A Dirty sewing machine, especially with lint build-up in the bobbin area or under the throat plate, can affect fabric feeding and stitch formation. This extra stress and uneven movement can lead to needle breaks.
By paying attention to these details and taking care of your needles and machine, you can keep those needles from snapping and enjoy your sewing time more!