Your Guide: How Do You Applique With A Sewing Machine

So, how do you applique with a sewing machine? Applique using a sewing machine means you attach pieces of fabric onto a background fabric using stitches from your machine. This lets you add fun shapes, pictures, and designs to things like quilts, clothes, and bags quickly and neatly. It’s a popular way to make your sewing projects look special with lots of color and texture.

How Do You Applique With A Sewing Machine
Image Source: www.allpeoplequilt.com

Applique Explained Simply

Applique is a sewing method where you add a piece of fabric, often cut into a shape, on top of another piece of fabric. Think of it like gluing paper cutouts onto a big sheet, but with fabric and stitches. You can make pictures like flowers, animals, letters, or simple shapes. Sewing machines make applique faster and stronger than sewing by hand. Using a machine also lets you choose many different stitch patterns to go around your shapes.

Things You Need for Machine Applique

Before you start sewing your shapes, get your tools ready. Having the right things makes the job easier and helps your applique look good.

Main Supplies

Fabrics: You need background fabric and the fabrics for your shapes. Choose fabrics that work well together. Cotton is a common choice.
Shapes: These are the pieces of fabric you cut out. They can be simple circles or complex pictures.
Scissors: Sharp scissors are a must. Small, pointy ones are good for cutting detailed shapes.
Iron and Ironing Board: You will use an iron a lot, especially with some common machine applique techniques.
Sewing Machine: Any sewing machine can do basic applique stitches. Some have more stitch options which is nice.
Thread: Pick thread colors that match or contrast with your fabric shapes. You might need different thread colors for different parts of your design.
Pins or Glue Stick: These help hold your fabric shapes in place before you sew them down.
Pattern or Design: You need to know what shapes to cut and where to put them.

Helpful Extras

Applique Stabilizer for Machine: This is a special material you put under your background fabric. It helps keep the fabric flat and stops stitches from puckering or getting wavy. It is very helpful, especially for detailed work or stretchy fabrics.
Fusible Web Applique Machine: This is a thin material with glue on both sides. You iron it onto your fabric shapes. Then you peel off paper and iron the shape onto your background. The glue holds the shape firm, making it easy to sew. It’s key for the fused applique method.
Sewing Machine Applique Feet: Your machine probably came with a few feet. Some feet are made just for applique. An open-toe foot lets you see your stitches clearly. A satin stitch foot is good for wide, close stitches. We will talk more about these later.
Tracing Paper or Light Box: These help you transfer your design onto fabric or fusible web.

Popular Machine Applique Methods

There are a few main ways people do applique with a sewing machine. Each method gives a slightly different look.

The Fused Applique Method

This is one of the simplest and most popular ways to start with machine applique. It uses fusible web applique machine material.

How Fused Applique Works

Get Your Shape: Draw or trace your shape onto the paper side of the fusible web. Remember, if your shape needs to face a certain way (like a letter), you must draw it backwards on the paper.
Iron to Fabric: Rough-cut around the shape on the fusible web. Iron this piece onto the back of the fabric you want to use for your shape. Follow the fusible web instructions.
Cut Your Shape: Let the fabric cool. Carefully cut out the shape along the lines you drew. The fusible web is now stuck to the back of your fabric shape.
Place Your Shape: Peel the paper backing off your shape. Now the glue side is open. Put the shape glue-side-down onto your background fabric where you want it.
Iron in Place: Iron the shape onto the background fabric. The heat from the iron melts the glue again and sticks the shape firmly in place. This makes it easy to move your project to the sewing machine without the shape shifting.

This fused applique method is great because the shape stays put while you sew. It stops the edges from lifting or curling.

Raw Edge Machine Applique

This method is even simpler for placing the shape. You do not use fusible web on the whole shape.

How Raw Edge Applique Works

Cut Your Shape: Cut your fabric shape directly from your chosen fabric.
Place and Hold: Put the shape on your background fabric. Hold it in place with pins or a small amount of temporary fabric glue stick.
Sew the Edges: Take it to your sewing machine and sew around the edges. The edge of the fabric is “raw,” meaning it is not turned under.

With raw edge machine applique, the fabric edge might fray a little over time, especially after washing. Some people like this look; it can add texture. Others sew very close to the edge to limit fraying or use a stitch that covers the edge well.

Needle-Turn Applique (Machine Variation)

Normally, needle-turn is a hand sewing method where you turn the raw edge under as you sew. You can do a similar idea with a machine.

How to do a Machine Needle-Turn Style

Cut Bigger: Cut your shape a little bigger than you want the final shape. Add about 1/4 inch all around.
Mark the Line: Draw your final shape line onto the background fabric.
Place the Shape: Put the bigger fabric shape on the background. Its edges will go past the line you drew.
Turn and Sew: As you sew along the marked line on the background, use a tool (like a needle or tweezers) to gently turn the raw edge of the top fabric under just before your needle stitches it down. This hides the raw edge.

This method takes practice. It gives a smooth edge without fusible web, but it’s harder to get perfect curves.

Preparing Fabric Shapes for Sewing

Knowing how to sew applique fabric shapes starts with getting them ready.

Cutting Shapes Neatly

Use Sharp Tools: Good scissors make clean cuts. If you are cutting tight curves or points, small embroidery scissors work well.
Follow Lines Carefully: If you traced a pattern, cut precisely on the lines. This is extra important if you are using the fused method where the shape is stuck down exactly as you cut it.
Think About Fabric Type: Some fabrics fray a lot. Cutting carefully helps. If using raw edge machine applique, accept that some fraying will happen or choose fabrics that fray less.

Placing Shapes on Background Fabric

Plan Your Design: Lay out all your shapes on your background fabric before you attach any. Make sure you like how they look together.
Mark Placement: You can use fabric-safe markers or pins to show where each shape goes, especially if the design is complex.
Hold Them Still: For raw edge machine applique, pins or glue stick are necessary. For the fused applique method, the iron does the job, making placement very stable.

Using Applique Stabilizer

Applique stabilizer for machine is a key helper. It goes on the back of your background fabric in the area where you will sew.

Why Use Stabilizer?

Stops Puckering: Dense stitches, like a satin stitch, can pull the fabric and make it wrinkle or pucker. Stabilizer gives the fabric body and stops this.
Keeps Fabric Flat: It helps the background fabric stay smooth while you move it under the machine needle.
Better Stitch Quality: Stitches look smoother and more even when the fabric is well-supported.

Types of Stabilizer

Tear-Away: You tear it away from the back of your fabric after sewing. Good for stable fabrics.
Cut-Away: You cut it away. Some types are left in place to keep the fabric stable through washing. Good for knits or stretchy fabrics.
Wash-Away: It dissolves in water. Good when you do not want any stabilizer left.

Choose a stabilizer based on your fabric and stitch type. Thicker stabilizers are better for dense stitching or delicate fabrics.

Machine Applique Stitching Choices

Once your shape is on your background, it’s time for machine applique stitching. This is where your sewing machine adds the decorative or securing stitches around the edge of your shape.

Common Stitches for Applique

Zigzag Stitch: This is a very common and strong stitch for applique. You can change its width and length.
- A narrow zigzag (short length, narrow width) looks like a hand blanket stitch.
- A wide, dense zigzag (very short length, wide width) is called a satin stitch.
Straight Stitch: Sewing right on the edge of a raw edge machine applique shape. Simple and fast.
Blanket Stitch: Many machines have a built-in blanket stitch. It looks like L-shapes along the edge and is popular for a handcrafted look.
Buttonhole Stitch: Similar to a narrow zigzag or blanket stitch, often used on edges that might get wear.
Decorative Stitches: Many machines have fun stitches like waves, scallops, or even little pictures. These can be used around applique shapes for extra decoration.

Setting Up Your Machine for Applique Stitches

Settings matter for machine applique stitching.

Needle: Use a sharp needle, like a universal or microtex needle. A 75/11 or 80/12 size works for most fabrics.
Thread Tension: You might need to adjust the tension slightly. The bobbin thread should meet the top thread inside the fabric layers, not show loops on the top or bottom.
Stitch Length: This controls how close the stitches are. For a dense look (like satin stitch), use a very short stitch length (almost zero). For a more open stitch (like a blanket stitch or wider zigzag), use a longer length.
Stitch Width: This controls how wide the zigzag or decorative stitch is. It should be wide enough to just cover the raw edge of your fabric shape.

The Satin Stitch Applique Tutorial

The satin stitch is a favorite for applique because it makes a smooth, solid border around your shape. It hides the raw edge completely and looks very finished. Here is a simple satin stitch applique tutorial.

Step-by-Step Satin Stitch

Prepare Your Project: Have your background fabric with the applique shape attached (using the fused method is easiest for beginners). Make sure you have applique stabilizer for machine under the background fabric.
Choose Thread: Pick thread that matches or contrasts with your applique shape and background.
Set Up Machine:
- Put on a foot that works well for satin stitch. An open-toe foot (so you can see) or a special satin stitch foot is best. We’ll talk about sewing machine applique feet soon.
- Select the zigzag stitch.
- Set stitch length to a very short number. Start around 0.4 to 0.7. The shorter the length, the denser the stitch.
- Set stitch width. This depends on the size of your shape and how wide you want the border. Start around 2.5 to 3.5 mm. The stitch should be wide enough so that the right swing of the needle goes just off the edge of the applique shape, and the left swing goes onto the shape.
- Check your tension. Sew a test on scrap fabric first.
Start Sewing: Place your fabric under the foot so the needle will sew just off the edge of the applique shape on one swing and onto the shape on the other swing. Lower the presser foot.
Sew Slowly: Sew slowly and guide the fabric carefully. The machine moves the fabric forward only a tiny bit for each stitch. Your job is to steer so the stitch stays right on the edge of your shape.
Go Around Curves: For curves, you might need to sew very slowly and gently pivot the fabric as you go. Stop with the needle down in the fabric (on the side towards the applique shape) to pivot slightly.
Handle Corners:
- Outside Corners: Sew to the corner point. Leave the needle down on the outside edge of the shape. Lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric. Put the foot down and continue sewing along the next edge.
- Inside Corners: Sew into the corner. Stop with the needle down on the side towards the applique shape. Lift the foot and pivot the fabric carefully to turn the corner. Put the foot down and continue. You may need to adjust width slightly here.
Finish the Stitch: When you get back to where you started, sew a few stitches over your beginning stitches to secure the thread. You can use a locking stitch if your machine has one.
Trim Threads and Stabilizer: Pull threads to the back and tie them off or weave them in. Carefully tear or cut away the stabilizer from the back.

Practice this satin stitch applique tutorial on scraps before you sew on your main project. Getting the hang of steering and turning corners neatly takes a little time.

Sewing Machine Applique Feet

Using the right sewing machine applique feet can make a big difference in how easy machine applique is and how good it looks.

Different Feet and Their Uses

Open-Toe Foot: This foot has a wide opening at the front. This lets you see exactly where your needle is stitching relative to the edge of your applique shape. It is excellent for satin stitch and other decorative stitches where precise placement is key.
Satin Stitch Foot: Similar to an open-toe foot, but often has a groove on the underside. This groove allows the dense satin stitches to pass smoothly under the foot without getting stuck or pushing the fabric.
Applique Foot: Some feet are specifically labeled for applique. They often have a clear plastic base for visibility and a groove underneath.
Free Motion Foot (Darning Foot): This foot is used when you do free motion machine applique. It hovers just above the fabric or has a spring. It does not feed the fabric; you move the fabric freely in any direction.
Walking Foot: While not strictly an applique foot, a walking foot can be helpful if you are applying shapes to thick layers or fabric that might shift, like batting in a quilt. It helps feed all the layers evenly.

Check your sewing machine’s manual to see which feet came with your machine and what they are for. You can also buy extra feet to add to your collection. Using the correct foot helps the fabric move smoothly and lets you guide it accurately.

Other Machine Applique Techniques

Beyond the basic fused and raw edge methods, there are other ways to use your machine for applique.

Free Motion Machine Applique

Free motion machine applique is like drawing with your sewing machine. Instead of the machine moving the fabric for you, you drop the feed dogs (the little teeth under the presser foot) and move the fabric yourself.

How to Do Free Motion Applique

Set Up: Put on a free motion or darning foot. Lower or cover your machine’s feed dogs. You will need applique stabilizer for machine on the back.
Prepare Shape: You can use the fused method to hold your shape down or use pins/glue.
Stitch: Instead of sewing just around the edge, you can stitch over the shape and background in any pattern you like. You control the stitch length by how fast you move the fabric and how fast the machine sews.
Outline or Fill: You can outline the applique shape with free motion stitching or fill the shape itself with patterns (like swirls or stippling) to add texture. You can also use free motion stitching to add details onto the applique shape, like veins on a leaf or stripes on a cat.

This technique gives you a lot of creative freedom. It takes practice to control the stitches and move the fabric smoothly.

Reverse Applique

This is where you layer fabrics and cut away the top layer to show the fabric underneath.

How to Do Reverse Applique with a Machine

Layer Fabrics: Place the fabric you want to show through under the background fabric. You might layer several fabrics if you want different colors to appear in different areas.
Stitch Design: On the top background fabric, draw the shape or design you want to cut out. Sew around this line with a machine stitch (like a straight stitch or narrow zigzag). This stitch line marks the edge and holds the layers together.
Cut Away: Carefully cut away the top layer (the background fabric) inside the stitched line. Do not cut the layers underneath!
Finish Edges: Now you have a raw edge on the top layer. You can sew over this raw edge with a satin stitch or other decorative stitch using your machine to give it a finished look.

This method creates shapes that are slightly lower than the surrounding fabric.

Making Sure Your Machine Applique Looks Great

Getting a neat finish is important for machine applique techniques.

Smooth Stitches

Practice: Sew on scraps first. Get the stitch settings right for your fabric and stabilizer.
Go Slow: Do not rush, especially around curves and corners.
Use Stabilizer: As mentioned, applique stabilizer for machine is key to preventing puckers and getting smooth stitches.
Check Tension: Make sure your thread tension is balanced.

Neat Edges

Precise Cutting: Cut your shapes cleanly.
Proper Placement: Make sure the shape is stuck or pinned down well.
Cover the Edge: If you are using a satin stitch or zigzag, make sure the stitches just cover the raw edge of the applique fabric. The right swing of the needle should land slightly off the shape, and the left swing should land just on the shape.

Troubleshoot Common Applique Problems

Sometimes things do not go as planned. Here are quick fixes for typical issues when learning how to sew applique fabric shapes.

Fabric Puckering: This is often caused by dense stitches pulling on the fabric.
- Fix: Use a stabilizer. Use a walking foot if layers are thick. Try a slightly longer stitch length (less dense).
Stitches Are Not Even: Some stitches look wider or shorter than others.
- Fix: Check your machine settings. Make sure the fabric is feeding smoothly. Make sure the presser foot pressure is right for your fabric (often adjustable on machines).
Corners Look Messy: Turning corners can be tricky with satin stitch.
- Fix: Practice turning slowly. Stop with the needle down on the pivot side. For outside corners, sew right to the point. For inside corners, sew right into the corner.
Fabric Shape Lifts: If using the raw edge method without fusible web.
- Fix: Use more pins or temporary fabric glue. Consider using the fused applique method next time.
Thread Breaks: Can be frustrating.
- Fix: Make sure your machine is threaded correctly. Use a new, sharp needle. Check thread tension. Make sure your fabric is not pulling or getting stuck.

A Table of Common Applique Stitches

Here is a simple table showing common machine applique stitching options.

Stitch Type	Appearance	Best For	Notes
Straight Stitch	A simple line	Raw Edge Applique	Very fast, edges will fray.
Zigzag Stitch	Back and forth line	Raw Edge or Fused	Width/length adjustable, covers edge.
Satin Stitch	Wide, dense zigzag	Fused Applique Mostly	Hides raw edge, smooth finish. Needs stabilizer.
Blanket Stitch	L-shapes along the edge	Raw Edge or Fused	Gives a handcrafted look.
Decorative Stitch	Varies (waves, scallops, etc.)	Fused Applique Mostly	For decorative effect, may need stabilizer.

This table helps you see the main ways you can use machine applique techniques for the edges.

Getting Creative with Applique

Machine applique is not just about covering raw edges. You can use machine applique stitching to add details and texture.

Stitching Within the Shape

Add Details: Sew lines or patterns on top of your applique shape to add things like veins on a leaf, whiskers on a cat, or outlines of clothing on a figure. Use a straight stitch or free motion stitching for this.
Fill Shapes: Use free motion stitching or even programmed decorative stitches to fill an entire applique shape with texture.

Combining Techniques

You can use the fused applique method to stick down shapes, then use raw edge machine applique with a straight stitch around some elements and a satin stitch on others in the same design.
Combine machine applique with embroidery or other embellishments.

Machine applique opens up many possibilities for adding personality and art to your projects. Learning how to sew applique fabric shapes neatly is the first step to unlocking these creative avenues.

Maintaining Your Machine for Applique

Applique, especially with dense stitches like satin stitch, can work your sewing machine. Keep it happy by:

Cleaning: Remove lint regularly from the bobbin area and under the needle plate. Lint buildup can affect stitch quality and tension.
Oiling: If your machine needs oiling (check the manual), do it regularly based on how much you sew.
New Needles: Change your needle often, especially when doing a lot of stitching. A dull or bent needle causes skipped stitches and thread breaks.

Taking care of your machine helps ensure your machine applique techniques always produce the best results.

FAQs About Machine Applique

Here are some common questions people ask about using a sewing machine for applique.

Q: Can I applique on any fabric?

A: You can applique on most fabrics, but some are easier than others. Stable woven fabrics like cotton are great for beginners. Stretchy fabrics or very thin/slippery fabrics might need more stabilizer and careful handling. Thicker fabrics like felt or fleece can also work well, sometimes even without finishing the edges (like raw edge machine applique).

Q: What is the best stitch for applique?

A: There is no single “best” stitch. It depends on the look you want.
* Satin stitch gives a smooth, finished edge that covers the raw fabric completely.
* A narrow zigzag or blanket stitch gives a more handmade look and still covers the edge.
* A straight stitch is fastest but leaves a raw edge that will fray.
Experiment to see what you like!

Q: Do I have to use fusible web?

A: No, you do not have to use fusible web (fusible web applique machine method). You can use pins or glue stick for raw edge machine applique. However, fusible web makes placing and holding the shape much easier, especially for detailed designs or when using dense stitches like satin stitch. It is highly recommended for beginners.

Q: How do I choose the right applique foot?

A: An open-toe foot or a specific satin stitch/applique foot is best for seeing where you are sewing around the edges, especially with wider stitches. A free motion foot is essential for free motion machine applique. Check your machine manual for feet designed for decorative stitches or applique.

Q: How do I stop my fabric from puckering around the applique?

A: Puckering is often solved by using applique stabilizer for machine under your background fabric. Also, check your stitch density (make stitches slightly less close together) and thread tension. Make sure you are not pushing or pulling the fabric too hard.

Q: Can I wash machine appliqued items?

A: Yes, you can usually wash items with machine applique. The durability depends on the fabrics used, the type of machine applique stitching, and if you used fusible web and/or stabilizer. Using fusible web and dense stitches like satin stitch generally makes applique very durable for washing. Always follow the fabric manufacturer’s washing instructions. If you used wash-away stabilizer, make sure it is fully dissolved first. For raw edge machine applique, expect some fraying after washing.

Q: How do I cut small, detailed applique shapes?

A: Use small, very sharp scissors, like embroidery scissors with fine points. Take your time and cut slowly and smoothly along your drawn line. If using the fused method, cutting is easier because the fusible web adds body to the fabric.

Wrapping Up Your Machine Applique Journey

Learning how to sew applique fabric shapes with your sewing machine opens up a world of creative possibilities. From the simple fused applique method to the free motion technique, your machine can help you add color, texture, and personalized designs to almost any fabric item.

Remember to gather your supplies, prepare your fabrics carefully, choose the right sewing machine applique feet and stitch settings, and use applique stabilizer for machine when needed. Practice different machine applique techniques, like the satin stitch applique tutorial, on scraps first. Do not be afraid to try raw edge machine applique for a different look or free motion machine applique for artistic flair.

With a little practice and patience, you will be creating beautiful, durable machine-appliqued projects in no time. Enjoy adding that special touch to your sewing!