Here is a step-by-step guide on how to sew a blind stitch using your sewing machine. This method helps you create a neat hem that looks nearly invisible on the outside of your project. It’s a great skill for clothing, curtains, and other home decor items where you don’t want stitches to show.
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Grasping the Blind Stitch
A blind stitch is a special type of stitch. It joins two pieces of fabric together so that most of the thread stays hidden inside the fabric fold. This makes the stitch very hard to see from the front side of your sewing project. People use this stitch most often for hemming clothes, like skirts, pants, or sleeves. It gives a clean, finished look. When you use a blind hem stitch machine, you can create this hidden stitch quickly and neatly. It’s one of the key machine hemming techniques for a professional finish. Using an invisible hemming sewing machine makes achieving this look much simpler than trying to sew it by hand.
What You Need
To sew a blind stitch with your machine, gather these things:
- Your sewing machine with the power on.
- The correct needle for your fabric type.
- Thread that matches your fabric color very closely. This is important for making the stitch invisible.
- A sewing machine blind stitch foot. This special foot has a guide that helps you sew straight.
- Fabric that needs a hem.
- An iron and ironing board.
- Sewing pins.
- Fabric scissors.
- A measuring tape or ruler.
- A fabric marking tool (like chalk or a disappearing pen).
- Scrap fabric to test your stitch.
Preparing Your Fabric for the Hem
Good preparation is key to a good blind hem. The most important step is pressing.
Ironing Your Fabric Well
Always iron your fabric before you start sewing. Ironing makes the fabric flat and smooth. This helps you measure and fold the hem correctly. Wrinkled fabric is hard to fold straight. A straight fold is needed for a straight blind stitch.
Figuring Out Your Hem Amount
Decide how much fabric you want to fold up for your hem. A common amount is 1.5 inches or 2 inches. You will fold the fabric two times.
Folding the Fabric Edge
The raw edge of the fabric needs to be finished first.
- Fold the raw edge up by a small amount, maybe 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch.
- Press this small fold with your iron. This creates a clean edge inside the hem. For some fabrics, you might finish the edge with a serger or zig-zag stitch instead of folding it under.
Folding the Main Hem
Now, fold the fabric up again by the main hem amount you decided on.
- Measure from the folded edge (the one you just pressed) up towards the main fabric.
- Fold the fabric up this amount (e.g., 1.5 inches).
- Pin this larger fold in place. Pins keep the hem from moving while you get ready to sew.
- Press this larger fold well. Pressing makes a sharp fold line. This line is where the needle will catch just a tiny bit of the main fabric.
Getting Your Machine Ready
Setting up your sewing machine correctly is vital for a good blind stitch.
Putting On the Blind Stitch Foot
Your machine likely came with a special foot for blind stitches. It looks different from a regular foot.
- Turn off your sewing machine for safety.
- Remove the regular sewing foot. Machines usually have a lever or button on the back of the foot holder to release it.
- Line up the sewing machine blind stitch foot with the foot holder.
- Lower the foot holder until it snaps onto the foot. Make sure it is locked in place.
Finding the Blind Stitch Setting
Most sewing machines have a special stitch setting just for blind hems.
- Look at your machine’s stitch options. This might be on a dial, buttons, or a screen.
- Find the symbol for the blind stitch. It usually looks like a series of straight lines with a little zig-zag jump every few stitches. It might look something like this: —^—^—^.
- Select this stitch setting. This sets the basic pattern for the blind hem stitch machine.
Reading the Stitch Pattern
Look at the picture of the blind stitch on your machine. It helps you know how it works.
- There are several straight stitches. These stitches sew on the folded-under part of the hem. They hold the hem in place.
- There is one wider zig-zag stitch. This stitch jumps over to the main fabric fold. This is the stitch that will just barely catch the main fabric.
Adjusting Blind Stitch Settings
The basic blind stitch setting might need changes for your fabric. This is where you fine-tune the stitch. You will change the stitch length and width. These are key sewing machine settings for blind hem.
Stitch Length and Width for Blind Stitch
These settings control how the stitch looks and how well it hides.
- Stitch Length: This controls how far apart the straight stitches are.
- A shorter stitch length means more straight stitches closer together. This makes the fold very secure.
- A longer stitch length means fewer straight stitches. This can be less secure but faster.
- For blind stitches, you usually want a short to medium stitch length for the straight parts. This helps the hem stay put. Try a length between 1 and 3 on your machine’s setting.
- Stitch Width: This controls how far the zig-zag stitch jumps to the side. This is the most important setting for making the stitch invisible.
- If the width is too big, the zig-zag stitch will jump too far onto the main fabric. You will see the stitches clearly on the front.
- If the width is too small, the zig-zag stitch might not catch the main fabric at all. The hem will not be attached.
- You want the zig-zag width to be just big enough to catch only one or two threads of the main fabric fold. This is often a small number, maybe between 0.5 and 2 on your machine’s setting. This setting needs testing.
Testing Your Settings
Never sew a blind hem on your project without testing first!
- Take a scrap piece of the same fabric you are using.
- Prepare the scrap fabric just like your hem (fold and press the edge, then fold and press the main hem amount).
- Sew the blind stitch on the scrap piece using your chosen settings.
- Look closely at the front of the scrap. Can you see the stitches?
- Unfold the hem on the back of the scrap. Can you see that the zig-zag stitch just barely caught the fabric fold?
- Adjust the stitch width if needed. If you see stitches on the front, make the width smaller. If the stitch isn’t catching the main fabric, make the width a little bigger.
- Adjust the stitch length if needed. Make it shorter for more hold, longer for less.
- Keep testing and adjusting until the stitch looks right on the scrap. This is the best way to get a perfect blind hem stitch.
Sewing the Blind Hem Step-by-Step
Once your fabric is pressed and pinned, and your machine is set up and tested, you are ready to sew.
Position the Fabric Correctly
How you place the fabric under the foot is very important.
- The wrong side of your fabric should be facing up.
- The folded hem edge should be on your left.
- The main part of the fabric should be on your right.
- The blind stitch foot has a guide piece, often metal or plastic, that runs down the middle or slightly to the right side of the foot.
- You will place the folded edge of your fabric (the edge you folded the first time and pressed) so that it runs along this guide.
Aligning the Foot Guide
This is the most important part of positioning.
- Look at your fabric fold. You have the main hem fold pressed sharply.
- You then have the raw edge tucked inside, perhaps folded up 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch and pressed.
- The blind stitch foot guide should run right along the edge of the main fabric fold. It should not go under the fold. It sits next to the fold.
- The straight stitches will sew on the part of the hem that is folded under. The zig-zag stitch will jump just over the foot’s guide and land on the edge of the main fabric fold.
Starting to Sew
Lower the presser foot onto the fabric. Make sure the guide is still right along the fold edge.
- Begin sewing slowly.
- Watch the needle. See how it sews several straight stitches on the folded hem part?
- Then, watch the needle jump to the left with the zig-zag stitch. This zig-zag should just kiss the fold of the main fabric on the left side of the guide.
Sewing Along the Hem
Keep sewing slowly and steadily.
- Keep the edge of your fabric fold right against the guide on the blind stitch foot. This is the key to keeping the stitch even.
- Do not push or pull the fabric. Let the machine feed it through.
- Guide the fabric gently with your hands to keep it in line with the foot’s guide.
Handling Seams
If your project has side seams (like pants or a skirt), the fabric will be thicker there.
- Sew slowly over thick seams.
- The machine might make a louder noise or sew slower. This is normal.
- Be careful to keep the fold aligned at the seam area. You might need to lift the presser foot slightly to get over the bump, then lower it and continue sewing.
Finishing the Hem (Joining the Circle)
If you are sewing a hem in the round (like on pants or a skirt), you need to join the ends neatly.
- Sew almost all the way around the hem.
- When you get close to where you started, lift the presser foot and needle.
- Overlap the beginning stitches by about 1/2 inch.
- Lower the foot and sew over the first stitches for a short distance to secure the seam.
- Stop sewing and lift the needle and foot.
Securing Your Stitches
To stop the stitches from coming undone, you need to secure them.
- If your machine has a lock stitch or reverse stitch button, use it for a few stitches at the beginning and end. Be aware that reverse stitches might be more visible, so some people prefer to just sew over the starting stitches.
- Cut your threads, leaving tails about 4-6 inches long.
- You can use a hand sewing needle to pull these thread tails to the inside of the hem and tie a small knot. Then trim the ends. This hides the knots.
Final Pressing
After sewing, press the hem one last time.
- Press from the wrong side of the fabric.
- Pressing helps the stitches settle into the fabric. It makes the hem lay flat and look neat.
- Turn the project to the right side. You should see a smooth hem with only tiny little needle pricks where the zig-zag stitch caught the fabric. With matching thread, these should be almost invisible. This is the goal of the perfect blind hem stitch.
Applying Blind Hemming: How to Sew a Blind Hem on Pants
Sewing a blind hem on pants is a common use for this stitch. The steps are the same as above, but here are a few tips for pants:
- Measure Carefully: Try on the pants and mark the desired hem length. Make sure both legs are the same length.
- Undo Seams: If the leg is narrow, you might need to undo the side seams or inseams for a few inches at the bottom to make it easier to sew the hem flat. You will sew these small seam sections back together after the hem is done.
- Pressing Pants: Pressing a tube shape like a pant leg can be tricky. Use a tailor’s ham or press cloth to help flatten the area you are working on without creasing the rest of the leg.
- Handling Thick Seams: Pant legs often have thicker side seams. Go slowly over these areas as described earlier. You may need to gently help the fabric feed over the bump.
- Joining the Hem: When you sew the circular hem on a pant leg, finish by overlapping your starting stitches as described in the main steps.
Using your invisible hemming sewing machine to finish pant hems gives them a professional look, just like store-bought pants.
Adjusting Blind Stitch for Different Fabrics
Not all fabrics are the same. You might need to change your settings and technique slightly based on the fabric type.
Light Fabrics
- Settings: Use a very small stitch width for the zig-zag. The fabric threads are fine, so you only need to catch one or two. A shorter stitch length for the straight stitches helps prevent puckering.
- Needle: Use a fine needle, like a size 70/10 or 60/8.
- Thread: Use fine thread. Polyester thread works well.
- Folding: Be extra careful with folding and pressing light fabrics. They can be slippery. Use lots of pins or even fabric glue stick (temporary kind) to hold the fold while you sew.
- Pressing: Use low heat on your iron to avoid damaging delicate fabrics.
Medium Fabrics
- Settings: Your initial test settings will likely work well here. Adjust width based on your test scrap.
- Needle: Use a universal needle, size 80/12 or 90/14.
- Thread: All-purpose polyester thread is good.
- Folding: Pressing is very effective on medium weight cottons, linens, etc.
Heavy Fabrics
- Settings: You might need a slightly larger stitch width to make sure the zig-zag catches the thicker fabric fold. A slightly longer stitch length for the straight stitches might work better, as too short a length can cause bulk.
- Needle: Use a stronger needle, like a denim or heavy-duty needle, size 90/14 or 100/16.
- Thread: Use strong thread.
- Folding: Heavy fabrics can be hard to press flat. You might need to use a clapper when pressing to get a sharp fold. Trimming away some of the bulk in the hem allowance (especially at seams) can also help.
Knit Fabrics
- Settings: Use the blind stitch setting designed for knits if your machine has one. It often uses a different type of stitch (like a lightning bolt shape for the zig-zag). If not, use the regular blind stitch but adjust carefully. Use a small zig-zag width.
- Needle: Use a ballpoint or stretch needle. These needles push between the fabric fibers instead of piercing them, which prevents runs or holes in knit fabrics.
- Thread: Use polyester or woolly nylon thread in the bobbin for stretch.
- Folding: Knits can roll at the edges. Pressing is crucial. Some people use a temporary spray adhesive or fusible web to hold the hem in place while sewing.
- Do Not Pull: Do not pull knit fabric while sewing. This will stretch the hem and make it wavy.
Troubleshooting Blind Stitch Sewing
Sometimes the blind stitch doesn’t look perfect the first time. Here are common problems and how to fix them. This is part of learning troubleshooting blind stitch sewing.
Problem 1: Stitches Show Clearly on the Front
This is the most common problem. The goal is for the stitches to be invisible.
- Reason: The zig-zag stitch is jumping too far over onto the main fabric. The stitch width is too large.
- Fix: Adjusting blind stitch width is key. Make the stitch width setting smaller. Test on a scrap piece of fabric again. Keep making it smaller until the zig-zag just barely catches the fold or misses it entirely (then increase slightly). Also, check that the foot’s guide is running exactly along the edge of the main fabric fold. If it’s too far under the fold, the needle will catch too much fabric.
Problem 2: The Hem is Not Attached (Stitch is Missing the Main Fabric)
The hem is folded up, but it feels loose.
- Reason: The zig-zag stitch is not jumping far enough to the side to catch the main fabric fold. The stitch width is too small, or the fabric fold is not close enough to the foot’s guide.
- Fix: Increase the stitch width setting slightly. Test again. Make sure the fabric fold is held firmly against the guide on the sewing machine blind stitch foot.
Problem 3: The Hem Is Puckering or Wavy
The fabric is gathering up instead of laying flat.
- Reason:
- Stitch length is too short for the fabric.
- Tension is too tight.
- Fabric is being pulled while sewing.
- Needle is wrong for the fabric type.
- Fabric was not pressed well.
- Fix:
- Try a slightly longer stitch length for the straight stitches.
- Check your machine’s tension. Sew a test line on a scrap. If the stitches look tight or the fabric gathers, loosen the upper tension a little.
- Let the machine feed the fabric. Guide it gently but do not pull.
- Make sure you are using the right type and size of needle for your fabric.
- Go back and repress the hem firmly before sewing again.
Problem 4: Skipped Stitches
The machine is not making a stitch in places.
- Reason:
- Needle is bent, dull, or wrong type for the fabric.
- Thread is old or poor quality.
- Machine is not threaded correctly.
- Fix:
- Change the needle. Always start with a new needle if you have problems. Make sure it’s the correct type and size.
- Try using different, good-quality thread.
- Unthread your machine completely and thread it again, following your machine’s manual carefully. Make sure the presser foot is up when threading the upper thread.
Problem 5: The Zig-Zag Catches Too Much Fabric on One Side, Not Enough on the Other
The stitches on the front are not evenly spaced tiny dots.
- Reason: The fabric fold is not running evenly along the guide on the sewing machine blind stitch foot. Your fabric is drifting away from or pushing into the guide as you sew.
- Fix: Slow down. Pay close attention to keeping the fabric fold edge running right against the guide on the foot. Practice on scraps until you can keep the fabric line straight.
Sewing Machine Settings for Blind Hem – A Quick Guide
These are just starting points. Always test on your fabric scrap!
| Setting Type | Typical Range | What it Does | How to Adjust for Problems |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stitch Length | 1 – 3 | Controls space between straight stitches. | Shorter: More secure, can pucker light fabrics. Longer: Less secure, better for thick fabrics. |
| Stitch Width | 0.5 – 2 | Controls how far zig-zag jumps. Key for invisibility. | Smaller: Zig-zag stays more hidden. Larger: Zig-zag catches more fabric (might show). |
| Tension | Machine Default (often 4-5) | Controls tightness of stitch. | Too tight: Puckers, stitches show on front. Too loose: Loops on back, weak stitch. |
| Needle Type | Universal, Ballpoint (for knits), Denim | Matches needle to fabric type and weight. | Wrong needle causes skipped stitches, pulls, or holes. Use the right type! |
| Foot | Blind Stitch Foot | Guides the fabric fold. | Essential for correct stitch placement. Ensure guide is on the fold edge. |
Remember, getting the perfect blind hem stitch takes practice and careful adjustment of your sewing machine settings for blind hem.
Beyond Basic: Machine Hemming Techniques
The blind hem is just one type of machine hem. Using your invisible hemming sewing machine opens up many possibilities for finishing edges neatly. Other common techniques include:
- Double-Fold Hem: The most basic, involves folding the edge under twice and sewing a straight stitch near the top fold. This is visible on the front.
- Rolled Hem: Used for very fine or sheer fabrics. The edge is rolled up tightly two or three times and sewn with a narrow zig-zag or special rolled hem foot.
- Serged Hem: Finishing the edge with a serger and then folding it up once and stitching.
- Facing Hem: Adding a shaped piece of fabric to the hem edge, often used on curves.
While these other techniques are useful, the machine blind hem is special because it offers that clean, virtually stitch-free look on the outside, making it perfect for dressy garments or anywhere you want the sewing to disappear. Mastering the machine blind stitch is a valuable addition to your collection of machine hemming techniques.
FAQ
Here are some common questions about sewing a blind stitch with a machine.
Q: Can I use the blind stitch foot for other things?
A: Yes, sometimes. The guide on the blind stitch foot can be useful for sewing other stitches that need a consistent distance from an edge, like edge stitching or ditch stitching (sewing in the seam line). However, its main purpose is for the blind hem stitch.
Q: What if my machine doesn’t have a blind stitch setting?
A: Most modern sewing machines, even basic ones, have a blind stitch setting. Check your machine’s manual carefully. If it truly doesn’t, you can try to create a similar effect using a narrow zig-zag stitch that jumps over to the side every few straight stitches. However, this is harder to get right and might not look as clean as the built-in stitch pattern. Hand sewing is another option for an invisible stitch if your machine cannot do it.
Q: Why is thread color so important?
A: Even though the goal is an invisible stitch, sometimes tiny parts of the zig-zag stitch might show. If the thread matches the fabric color perfectly, these tiny stitches will blend in and be very hard to see. If the thread color is off, even a little, the stitches will be much more noticeable.
Q: My hem looks bulky, especially at seams. What can I do?
A: Thicker fabrics and seams can create bulk. Before folding the hem, you can trim away some of the excess fabric within the seam allowance in the hem area. This is called “grading the seam.” Also, press the seams open before folding the hem up. Use a clapper when pressing to flatten thick areas. Go very slowly over thick parts when sewing.
Q: Do I need to finish the raw edge of the hem before folding it under?
A: It’s usually a good idea. Folding the raw edge under 1/4 inch and pressing is a simple way to do this. You can also use a serger or a zig-zag stitch along the raw edge before folding the main hem up. This prevents the fabric from fraying inside the hem over time.
Q: Can I blind hem stretchy fabrics?
A: Yes, but you need to use the right tools and settings. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle, and use polyester thread (which has some stretch). Your machine might have a specific stretch blind hem stitch. Test carefully on a scrap to make sure the hem doesn’t get wavy.
Q: My stitch looks loose or like there are loops on the back. What’s wrong?
A: This is usually a tension problem, specifically with the upper thread tension being too loose. Make sure your machine is threaded correctly with the presser foot up. If it still happens, increase the upper tension setting slightly. Test on a scrap until the stitches look balanced – not too tight, not too loose.
To Wrap Up
Learning how to sew a blind stitch with your sewing machine is a great skill. It helps you finish your projects with a clean, professional look. By preparing your fabric well, using the right foot and settings, testing on scraps, and sewing carefully, you can create beautiful, nearly invisible hems. Remember to adjust your machine based on your fabric type and practice makes perfect! Using your invisible hemming sewing machine correctly makes this seemingly complex stitch easy to achieve. With these machine hemming techniques, you can make your clothes and home goods look store-bought.