Simple Steps: How To Create Your Own Sewing Pattern

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Simple Steps: How To Create Your Own Sewing Pattern

Can you really make your own sewing patterns? Yes, you absolutely can! Making your own sewing patterns means you can create clothes that fit just right and look exactly how you want. It is a key part of sewing pattern design. Think of it as your personal pattern making tutorial. This guide will show you how to start pattern drafting your very own clothes.

Why Make Your Own Patterns?

Why would you want to make your own pattern? There are many good reasons.

• Perfect Fit: Store-bought patterns are made for standard sizes. People are not standard sizes. Your pattern will fit you. This is the main benefit of custom sewing patterns.
• Unique Style: You can make any style you dream up. You are not stuck with what you can find in a store. You become a true sewing pattern design artist.
• Save Money: Once you know how to make patterns, you can make many clothes from one basic idea.
• Learn More: It teaches you a lot about how clothes are made. It helps you drafting clothes patterns from scratch.
• Fun Project: It is a rewarding hobby. Creating your own DIY sewing pattern is a great feeling.

What You Need To Start

You do not need fancy tools to begin. Get these simple things:

• Big paper: This is where your pattern goes. You can use craft paper, pattern paper, or even big rolls of tracing paper.
• Pencils: A regular pencil is fine. Get one you can erase with.
• Eraser: You will make changes. An eraser is your friend.
• Rulers:
  • A straight ruler: Good for straight lines.
  • A curved ruler: Helps with curves like necklines and armholes. A French curve or hip curve is good.
  • A L-square ruler: Very useful for making square corners.
• Measuring tape: You need this for taking body measurements. Get a flexible one.
• Scissors: For cutting paper. Not your fabric scissors!
• Tape: For sticking paper pieces together.
• Pins: For holding things in place.
• Something to draw straight lines: A long straight edge or the L-square ruler.
• A hard flat surface: A big table or the floor works well.

The Foundation: Sloper Patterns

What is a sloper? A sloper is a basic pattern piece. It fits your body perfectly. It has no style built into it. It is like a plain shell of a garment.

• A bodice sloper fits your upper body.
• A skirt sloper fits your waist and hips.
• A pants sloper fits your waist, hips, and legs.

You use slopers as your starting point. You change the sloper to create any style of garment. Learning using sloper patterns is key to pattern drafting. Think of slopers as your building blocks for sewing pattern design.

Taking Your Body Measurements

This is a very important step. Your pattern will only fit if your measurements are right. Ask a friend to help you. It is hard to measure yourself correctly. Wear clothes that fit close to your body. Do not wear bulky sweaters. Use your flexible measuring tape.

Here are the key measurements to take. Write them down carefully.

Table: Key Body Measurements

Measurement Name	Where to Measure
Bust	Around the fullest part of your chest. Keep tape flat.
Waist	Around the narrowest part of your torso.
Hips	Around the fullest part of your hips and rear.
High Bust	Around your chest, just under your arms.
Back Waist Length	From the bone at the base of your neck to your waist.
Front Waist Length	From the top of your shoulder at your neck to your waist (over the fullest part of bust).
Shoulder Width	Across your upper back, from shoulder bone to shoulder bone.
Arm Length	From the bone at the top of your shoulder down to your wrist (with arm slightly bent).
Upper Arm	Around the fullest part of your upper arm.
Bicep	Around the fullest part of your bicep.
Wrist	Around your wrist bone.
Skirt Length	From your waist down to where you want the hem.
High Hip	Around your hips about 3-4 inches below your waist.
Thigh	Around the fullest part of your thigh.
Knee	Around your knee.
Ankle	Around your ankle.
Inseam	From the crotch point down to where you want the pants hem (measure inner leg).
Rise	From your waist down to the crotch point (seated).

Take your time with taking body measurements. Check them twice. This is the base for your custom sewing patterns.

Drafting Your Basic Sloper

Now, let’s talk about creating your basic sloper. This is the core of pattern drafting. You will use your measurements and some basic math. There are different sewing pattern drafting techniques. One common way is called ‘flat pattern drafting’. You draw on paper using your measurements.

We will cover the basic idea for a bodice and a skirt. Making a pants sloper is also possible but takes more steps. This part is a mini pattern making tutorial.

H4 Drafting a Bodice Sloper

A bodice sloper usually has four pieces:
* Front Bodice
* Back Bodice
* Front Sleeve
* Back Sleeve

For simplicity, let’s focus on the bodice front and back without sleeves first. These are the main parts that fit your torso.

H5 Starting the Bodice Front

1. Draw a big rectangle on your paper. The width is your bust measurement plus some ease (space for movement), divided by 2. The height is your front waist length.
2. Mark points for neck, shoulder, armhole, and waist using fractions of your measurements and standard pattern drafting rules.
3. Draw the neckline curve.
4. Draw the shoulder line.
5. Draw the armhole curve. This needs to fit your armhole measurement from your body.
6. Add a ‘bust dart’. This is a fold in the pattern that helps the fabric go over your bust curve. The size and place of the dart depend on your bust measurement and high bust measurement difference. This is a key sewing pattern drafting technique.
7. Shape the side seam from the armhole to the waist. Use your waist measurement here. You will need a ‘waist dart’ as well to shape the fabric to your waist.

H5 Starting the Bodice Back

1. Draw a rectangle like the front. The width is your bust measurement plus ease, divided by 2. The height is your back waist length.
2. Mark points for neck, shoulder, armhole, and waist.
3. Draw the back neckline curve. It is usually higher than the front.
4. Draw the back shoulder line. It needs to match the length of the front shoulder line.
5. Draw the back armhole curve.
6. Add a waist dart or two to shape the back. The back usually has less shaping needed than the front.
7. Shape the side seam. It should match the length of the front side seam.

These are basic steps. Real pattern drafting involves specific formulas and guides based on body measurements. Many pattern making tutorial books offer detailed instructions for creating slopers. This is the core skill for drafting clothes patterns.

H4 Drafting a Skirt Sloper

A simple skirt sloper fits from your waist to your hip. It has two main pieces:
* Front Skirt
* Back Skirt

H5 Drafting the Skirt Front

1. Draw a rectangle. Width is your hip measurement plus ease, divided by 2. Height is your skirt length.
2. Mark your waistline at the top.
3. Mark your hip line. This is usually 7-9 inches down from the waist. Use your high hip measurement to help place it.
4. Measure your waist measurement along the waistline. You will need to take fabric away to match your smaller waist size. This fabric is taken out in darts.
5. Draw darts from the waist down towards the hip line. The amount of fabric in the darts equals (Hip width – Waist width). Distribute this amount across the darts.
6. Draw the side seam from the waist to the hip line.
7. Draw the hemline at the bottom.

H5 Drafting the Skirt Back

1. Draw a rectangle like the front. Width is hip measurement plus ease, divided by 2. Height is skirt length.
2. Mark waist and hip lines.
3. Measure your waist measurement along the waistline. Add darts like the front. The back often needs slightly different dart placement or size than the front.
4. Draw the side seam. It must match the length of the front side seam.
5. Draw the hemline.

Drafting a basic sloper takes practice. It is the starting point for all your custom sewing patterns. You are essentially creating a pattern that is a map of your body shape on flat paper.

Changing Your Sloper: Design Fun

Once you have a well-fitting sloper, you can make any design you like! This is where DIY sewing pattern making gets exciting. You are now doing sewing pattern design. This is also called ‘pattern manipulation’. You change your basic sloper by:

• Moving darts
• Adding fullness (like gathers or pleats)
• Taking away fullness (for a tighter fit)
• Changing necklines, armholes, waistlines, hemlines
• Adding collars, sleeves, pockets, yokes, etc.

Let’s look at simple examples of sewing pattern drafting techniques for design.

H4 Changing a Bodice Sloper

H5 Making a Dartless Bodice

Your sloper has bust darts. You can move this dart fullness to another seam. Or you can spread the fullness.
1. Cut your sloper pattern piece from the dart point to another edge (like the armhole or side seam).
2. Close the original dart.
3. The cut line opens up. This opening is now your new dart, or you can spread this open space evenly along the edge to get rid of the dart shape entirely (for knit fabrics or styles without darts).

H5 Adding Fullness to a Bodice

Want gathers at the shoulder?
1. Cut your sloper from the hem up to the shoulder, going through the dart.
2. Cut from the shoulder to the end of the first cut line.
3. Close your bust dart. This will make the cuts open at the shoulder.
4. Spread these open areas to create space for gathers. Tape the pattern piece onto new paper with the gaps open.

Want a different neckline?
1. Draw the new neckline shape onto your sloper pattern piece.
2. Cut along the new line. Remember to add seam allowance later.

This process of cutting and spreading or folding is the core of pattern drafting for design. It lets you take a flat shape (the sloper) and change its shape to create volume or new lines. This is how you go from a basic block to drafting clothes patterns for different styles.

H4 Changing a Skirt Sloper

H5 Making an A-Line Skirt

Your sloper is a straight skirt. To make it A-line:
1. Take your skirt front and back sloper pieces.
2. Close the darts on each piece by folding them shut. Tape the folds.
3. Draw a new side seam line. Start at the hip line and angle outwards towards the hem. Extend the hemline if needed so the side seam is straight.
4. This adds fullness at the hem while keeping the waist and hip fit of your sloper.

H5 Adding Gathers or Pleats

Want a gathered skirt?
1. Start with your waist measurement. Decide how much fullness you want (e.g., 1.5 times your waist, 2 times your waist).
2. Draft a rectangle that is this new gathered width and your skirt length. You do not need darts. The gathers replace the darts.
3. For pleats, you need to add a specific amount of extra width for each pleat. Mark where each pleat will go on your pattern.

Using sloper patterns as a starting point makes sewing pattern design much simpler. You know the base fits. You just change the design elements. This turns pattern drafting into a creative process.

Adding Pattern Details

Your changed sloper is not a finished pattern yet. It needs important marks and notes so you can use it to cut fabric correctly. This is a vital step in creating a usable DIY sewing pattern.

H4 Essential Pattern Markings

• Seam Allowance: This is the extra space outside the stitch line. You need this to sew the fabric pieces together. Standard is usually 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) for garments. Draw this line around all edges of your pattern piece.
• Grainline: This is a straight line with arrows on each end. It shows you how to place the pattern piece on the fabric. It should be parallel to the selvage (the finished edge) of the fabric. This is very important for how the fabric hangs and stretches.
• Notches: These are small marks on the edge of the pattern. They help you match up the pieces correctly when sewing. Match notches with notches.
• Darts: Draw the dart lines clearly. Mark the dart point (the end of the dart).
• Fold Line: If a pattern piece is cut on the fold of the fabric (like the center front of a bodice), draw a line with an arrow indicating this.
• Balance Marks: Sometimes called drill holes. These mark specific points like where a pocket goes or where gathers start and stop.
• Pattern Name: Write the name of the pattern piece (e.g., “Front Bodice”).
• Size: Write your measurements or “Custom”.
• Cutting Instructions: Note how many of this piece to cut (e.g., “Cut 1 on Fold”, “Cut 2”).
• Pattern Maker Name/Date: Good for keeping track of your work.

Adding these details is part of complete pattern drafting. It turns your basic shape into a professional-style custom sewing pattern. It is a key part of any pattern making tutorial.

Putting It All Together: Making a Test Garment (Muslin)

You have drafted your pattern. You have added all the marks. Now what? You need to test it! You make a test garment. This is often called a ‘muslin’ because people traditionally used cheap cotton fabric called muslin.

H4 Why Make a Test Garment?

• Check the Fit: Does it fit like you want? Is it too tight? Too loose?
• Check the Design: Do the style lines look right? Does that dart sit in the right place? Does the fullness look good?
• Find Mistakes: Did you make any errors in your pattern drafting? This is where they show up, not on your nice fashion fabric.
• Practice Sewing: You can practice sewing the tricky parts before using your final fabric.

Use a cheap fabric that is similar in weight and stretch to your final fabric. For example, use cheap woven cotton for a woven fabric pattern. Use a cheap knit for a knit pattern.

H4 How to Make a Test Garment

1. Cut out your pattern pieces from your cheap fabric.
2. Transfer all markings (darts, notches, etc.) to the fabric. Tailor’s tacks or washable markers work well.
3. Pin the pieces together following your pattern’s seam lines (not the cutting lines).
4. Baste (sew with long, loose stitches) the main seams together. Leave zippers and closures open.
5. Try the garment on.

Refining Your Pattern

Now for the important part. Look at your test garment on your body. Note everything that is not perfect.

H4 Checking and Adjusting the Fit

• Is it tight across the bust or hips? You may need to add width to the pattern.
• Is it baggy at the waist? You may need bigger darts or to take in the side seams.
• Are the shoulders too wide or too narrow? Adjust the shoulder seam on the pattern.
• Does the armhole dig in? You may need to lower or reshape the armhole.
• Does the neckline gape? You might need a smaller neck curve or a small dart near the neckline.

Use pins to make changes directly on the muslin while you wear it. Mark new seam lines with a pencil.

H4 Changing the Pattern Based on the Muslin

1. Take the test garment off. Carefully take out the basting stitches. Lay the fabric pieces flat.
2. Lay your original paper pattern pieces over the adjusted fabric pieces.
3. Transfer the changes you pinned or drew on the fabric back to your paper pattern.
4. Redraw the lines smoothly. Make sure all connecting seams still match length (like side seams of front and back bodice).
5. You might need to make a second test garment if the changes were big. This is okay! It is better to test again than to cut your nice fabric wrong.

This cycle of pattern drafting, testing, and adjusting is key to getting a good fit for your custom sewing patterns. It refines your sewing pattern drafting techniques. It makes your DIY sewing pattern ready for your final fabric. This is a crucial part of the pattern making tutorial process.

Digital Options: Sewing Pattern Software

In the past, everyone did pattern drafting by hand on paper. Today, you have other choices. You can use sewing pattern software.

H4 What is Sewing Pattern Software?

This is computer software made for designing and drafting patterns.

• Some software lets you input your measurements and creates basic slopers for you.
• Some let you draw patterns from scratch on the computer.
• You can make design changes easily on the screen.
• The software can add seam allowances and markings automatically.
• You can print your finished pattern on a home printer (tiled onto many pages) or send it to a large-format printer.

H4 Benefits of Using Software

• Accuracy: Can be very precise.
• Speed: Making changes can be faster than redrawing by hand.
• Storage: Your patterns are saved on your computer.
• Sharing: Easier to share patterns digitally if you want to.

H4 Downsides of Using Software

• Cost: Software can be expensive.
• Learning Curve: It takes time to learn how to use the software.
• Computer Needed: You need a computer powerful enough to run the software.

Even with software, the basic ideas of pattern drafting, taking body measurements, using sloper patterns, and sewing pattern design are the same. The software just changes the tools you use for drafting clothes patterns. It can be a great option once you understand the manual sewing pattern drafting techniques.

Tips for Success in Pattern Making

• Start Simple: Do not try to draft a complex coat for your first project. Start with a basic skirt or a simple top. Master the basics of pattern drafting first.
• Be Patient: Pattern making takes time and practice. Your first patterns might not be perfect. That is okay!
• Keep Notes: Write notes on your patterns and test garments about the changes you made. This helps you learn.
• Use Good Tools: Sharp pencils, clear rulers, and big enough paper make a difference.
• Learn from Others: Look at commercial patterns. See how they are drafted and marked. Read books and blogs about pattern drafting and sewing pattern design. Follow a pattern making tutorial carefully.
• Don’t Fear Mistakes: Mistakes are how you learn. Just try again.

Creating your own DIY sewing pattern is a skill that builds over time. Each project teaches you more about drafting clothes patterns and sewing pattern drafting techniques.

Frequently Asked Questions

H4 What is the difference between a pattern and a sloper?

A sloper is a very basic pattern. It has no style, just your body shape. A pattern is a design made by changing a sloper. It includes style details like flared skirts or gathered bodices. It also has seam allowances and markings. A sloper is the base for pattern drafting. A pattern is the end result you cut fabric from.

H4 Do I need to make a new sloper for every pattern?

No! That is the beauty of using sloper patterns. Once you have a good-fitting basic sloper, you use copies of it. You change the copy to make your new design. You keep your original sloper safe. It is your perfect fit base for all future sewing pattern design.

H4 How much extra room (ease) should I add?

Ease is the space between your body and the garment. The amount of ease depends on the style of the garment.
* Wearing ease: This is needed to move and breathe. Even a tight dress needs a little.
* Design ease: This is added for style, like a loose top or wide pants.

Start with a small amount of wearing ease for your sloper. Add more ease when you change the sloper for different designs. Books or pattern making tutorial guides often give suggestions for ease.

H4 Can I use a pattern I already have to make a sloper?

You can try. You can trace a pattern that fits you well. Then, you can try to remove the style lines and ease to get back to a basic shape. This is harder than drafting one from scratch using taking body measurements. Starting from measurements is often the best way to get a true personal sloper for custom sewing patterns.

H4 Is sewing pattern software hard to learn?

It depends on the software. Some are simpler than others. Like any new tool, it takes time and practice. If you understand pattern drafting basics by hand, learning software might be easier. Look for software with good tutorials if you want to try sewing pattern software.

Conclusion

Making your own sewing patterns opens up a world of possibilities. You can create clothes that fit you perfectly and show off your unique style. Starting with taking body measurements and drafting clothes patterns like a basic sloper is the first step. Using sloper patterns lets you explore endless sewing pattern design ideas.

Remember to test your patterns and adjust them. This pattern making tutorial journey takes practice. But with simple steps and patience, you can master pattern drafting and create your very own DIY sewing patterns. Happy sewing!