Get Perfect Hems: How To Hem Shorts With A Sewing Machine

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Get Perfect Hems: How To Hem Shorts With A Sewing Machine

Want to make your shorts fit just right or fix a frayed edge? Learning how to hem shorts with a sewing machine is a handy skill for anyone who likes DIY clothing alterations sewing. You can easily shorten shorts sewing projects or give an old pair a fresh look using simple sewing machine hem techniques. We will show you how to use different sewing machine stitches for hems and how to finish a hem edge for a clean look. This guide will walk you through the process step-by-step, from measuring to sewing a perfect hem on fabric using your machine, including tips for hemming denim shorts and achieving an easy sewing machine hem.

Why Hem Your Own Shorts?

Giving shorts a new hem is a great idea for many reasons. Maybe you bought shorts that are too long. Or perhaps you found a cool pair at a thrift store that needs a length change. Hems can also wear out or unravel, and you can fix them easily. It lets you make clothes fit you better and saves money on tailoring.

Getting Your Tools Ready

Before you start, gather everything you will need. Having all your supplies ready makes the job go smoothly.

H5 Essential Supplies

• A pair of shorts to hem
• A sewing machine
• Thread that matches your shorts (or a fun contrast color!)
• Sharp sewing scissors or fabric shears
• Measuring tape or a ruler
• Fabric chalk or a washable marker
• Straight pins
• An iron and ironing board
• A seam ripper (just in case!)
• A hem gauge (very helpful for even folds)

Getting the Shorts Ready

Getting the shorts ready before sewing is important. This helps you get the length just right and makes the fabric easy to work with.

H4 Wash and Dry Your Shorts

Always wash and dry your shorts the way you normally would before hemming. Fabric can shrink, and you want to mark and sew the hem on the fabric’s final size.

H4 Trying On and Marking the Length

This is a key step for shortening shorts sewing.

• Put the shorts on.
• Fold the hem up to the length you want. Make sure you like how it looks in the mirror.
• Have a friend help you mark the new hemline with chalk or pins. Mark evenly all around the leg. If you are alone, stand in front of a mirror and mark carefully, checking often.
• Take the shorts off. Lay them flat on a table or the floor, smoothing out wrinkles.

H4 Checking the Marking

• Use your measuring tape or ruler to check the marked line. Measure from the waist (or top) of the shorts down to your chalk line.
• Make sure this measurement is the same all the way around both legs. Adjust your line as needed to make it even. This is crucial for a balanced hem.

Planning Your New Hem

Now you know how long you want the shorts to be. Next, you need to plan the hem itself. This involves deciding how much fabric to leave for the hem and how you will fold and sew it.

H4 Figuring Out the Hem Allowance

The hem allowance is the extra fabric below your marked hemline. This fabric will be folded up to create the hem.

• A common hem allowance for shorts is 1 inch to 1.5 inches (about 2.5 cm to 4 cm). A wider hem looks nice on casual or denim shorts. A narrow hem might work for lighter fabrics.
• Decide on your hem allowance width.
• Use your ruler or hem gauge to measure down from your marked hemline. Make a new line this distance below the first one. This second line is where you will cut the fabric.

H4 Grasping Hem Types

There are a few main ways to create a hem. The most common for shorts is the double fold hem shorts method.

• Double Fold Hem: You fold the fabric edge up once, then fold it up again. This hides the raw edge inside the hem. It is strong and looks neat. This is a very popular sewing machine hem technique.
• Single Fold Hem with Finished Edge: You fold the fabric edge up only once. The raw edge needs to be finished to stop fraying. You can use a zigzag stitch, a serger, or another method (“How to finish a hem edge”). This is good for thicker fabrics or when you want less bulk.
• Blind Hem: A special hem where most of the stitches are hidden on the inside of the fabric. It gives a very clean look from the outside (“Blind hem stitch for shorts”). It takes a bit more practice.

For most shorts, especially if you are just starting, the double fold hem shorts method is a great choice.

Cutting the Fabric

Now it is time to cut away the extra fabric.

• Lay the shorts flat again, making sure the legs are smooth and aligned.
• Using your sharp scissors, cut carefully along the lower line you marked (the one below the new hemline).
• Cut slowly and try to make your cut smooth and even.
• Do this for both legs. You now have the shorts at the correct raw length, ready for folding.

Finishing the Raw Edge (If Not Doing a Double Fold)

If you are not doing a double fold hem (for example, on thick denim where less bulk is better), you need to finish the raw edge you just cut. This is a vital step in how to finish a hem edge to stop it from fraying and falling apart.

H4 Why Finish the Edge?

Fabric edges, especially woven ones, unravel easily. Finishing the edge seals it. This makes the hem last longer and look neater on the inside.

H4 Methods for Finishing the Edge

You can use your sewing machine for this. These are common sewing machine hem techniques for edge finishing.

• Zigzag Stitch: This is the most common method on a standard machine.
  • Set your machine to a zigzag stitch.
  • Choose a medium width and length.
  • Sew right along the very edge of the fabric. The stitches should go partly off the fabric edge and partly onto it, wrapping the raw fibers.
• Serger (Overlocker): If you have a serger, this is the fastest and neatest way to finish the edge. It cuts the edge and stitches over it at the same time.
• Pinking Shears: These scissors cut a zigzag edge. This helps reduce fraying without sewing, but it is not as secure as stitching. Good for fabrics that do not fray much.
• Turning Under the Edge: For thick fabrics like denim, you can fold the raw edge under just a small amount (like 1/4 inch or 0.5 cm) before folding up the full hem allowance. Sew this small fold down first, then fold up the main hem. This hides the raw edge completely without a double main fold, reducing bulk.

Choose the method that works best for your fabric and the hem type you planned. If you are doing a double fold hem, you do not need to finish the raw edge now, because it will be hidden inside the folds.

Creating the Folds (Double Fold Hem)

This is where you shape the hem before sewing. This is key for making double fold hem shorts.

H4 Step 1: The First Fold

• Lay one pant leg flat.
• Fold the raw edge up by the amount of your first fold. This is usually 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch (about 0.5 cm to 1 cm). This fold hides the raw edge.
• Use your iron to press this fold down firmly all the way around the leg opening. Pressing makes the fabric stay put and makes sewing much easier.

H4 Step 2: The Second Fold

• Now, fold the fabric up again. This time, fold it so the first fold’s edge meets the hemline you originally marked (the line that shows your final short length).
• The width of this second fold is your planned hem allowance minus the amount of the first fold. If your total allowance was 1.5 inches and your first fold was 0.5 inches, this second fold will be 1 inch.
• Use your hem gauge or ruler to check that the folded hem is the same width all the way around.
• Press this second fold down firmly with your iron. Pressing is your best friend for an easy sewing machine hem!

H4 Pinning the Hem

• Once pressed, use straight pins to hold the double fold hem in place.
• Place pins every few inches around the leg opening.
• Make sure the pins go through both layers of the hem and catch the fabric of the shorts leg.

Repeat these steps for the other leg.

Sewing the Hem

Now you are ready to sew! This is where your sewing machine hem techniques come in. Hemming fabric with machine power makes quick work of this step.

H4 Setting Up Your Sewing Machine

• Make sure your machine is threaded correctly with the matching thread.
• Wind a bobbin with the same thread.
• Choose the right needle for your fabric. A universal needle works for many fabrics, but for hemming denim shorts or other thick materials, use a strong denim needle.
• Put the correct presser foot on your machine. A standard presser foot is usually fine, but a blind hem foot helps if you are doing a blind hem. A walking foot can help with thick or slippery fabrics.

H4 Choosing the Right Stitch

You have a few options for sewing machine stitches for hems.

• Straight Stitch: This is the most common and strongest stitch for a visible hem.
  • Set your machine to a straight stitch.
  • Choose a medium stitch length (like 2.5 mm).
  • You will sew close to the inner folded edge of the hem (the edge closest to the shorts leg).
• Zigzag Stitch: Can be used for a decorative look or on stretch fabrics where you need the stitch to stretch.
  • Set your machine to a zigzag stitch.
  • Adjust the width and length depending on the look you want.
• Blind Hem Stitch: A special stitch that is mostly invisible from the outside (“Blind hem stitch for shorts”).
  • You need a blind hem foot and the blind hem stitch setting on your machine.
  • The fabric is folded in a special way so the zigzag part of the stitch just catches a few threads of the main fabric while the straight stitches sew the hem down on the inside. This takes practice.

For a sturdy, visible hem on most woven shorts, the straight stitch is the way to go. It provides an easy sewing machine hem.

H4 Starting to Sew

• Place the shorts leg under the presser foot.
• Start sewing near an inseam or side seam, as this makes the start/end point less noticeable.
• Lower the needle into the fabric where you want to start. Lower the presser foot.
• Sew a few stitches forward, then sew a few stitches backward (reverse) to lock the stitches. This stops the seam from unraveling.
• Sew slowly and steadily, guiding the fabric. Keep your stitches the same distance from the inner folded edge all the way around.
• Remove pins as you sew, before you reach them with the machine needle. Sewing over pins can break your needle.

H4 Sewing All Around

• Keep sewing all the way around the leg opening.
• Go slowly around curves if the shorts have a flared or curved hem. You might need to stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, and pivot the fabric slightly to follow the curve.
• When you get back to where you started, sew over the first few stitches by about 1/2 inch (1 cm).
• Sew backward (reverse) for a few stitches to lock the end of the seam.
• Lift the presser foot and pull the shorts away from the machine.
• Cut the threads.

Repeat the sewing steps for the other leg. Try to sew the second hem the same distance from the inner edge as the first one, so they match.

Special Cases: Hemming Denim Shorts

Hemming denim shorts needs a bit more care because denim is thick.

H4 Use the Right Needle

• A standard needle will likely break or skip stitches on denim. Use a specific denim needle. These are stronger and sharper. Look for “Denim” or “Jeans” on the needle package.
• Use a larger size denim needle (like 16 or 18).

H4 Thread

• Use strong thread. Polyester or a poly-cotton blend is good. You can even use special heavy-duty thread for topstitching if you want a classic denim look, but a regular strong thread in a matching color works for the hem seam.

H4 Handling Thick Seams

Denim shorts have thick seams (where the leg fabric joins). Sewing over these can be hard for your machine.

• Hammering: You can gently flatten the folded seams with a hammer before sewing. This makes them less bulky. Place a piece of scrap fabric under the seam when hammering to protect your work surface.
• Jean-a-ma-jig / Hump Jumper: This small tool helps your presser foot get over thick layers. You place it behind your foot when approaching a hump.
• Sew Slowly: Go extra slow when sewing over thick seam areas. You might even turn the handwheel manually instead of using the foot pedal to have more control.
• Longer Stitch: Sometimes a slightly longer stitch length (like 3 mm) works better on thick fabric like denim.

H4 Edge Finishing for Denim

Since denim is thick, a full double fold hem can be bulky.

• Many people use a single fold hem on denim after finishing the raw edge with a zigzag stitch or serger.
• Or, use the method of folding the raw edge under 1/4 inch first, sewing that tiny fold down, and then folding up the full hem allowance (say, 1.25 inches) and sewing it. This hides the raw edge neatly without a double main fold.

Hemming denim shorts can be done easily with the right tools and a little patience.

Exploring Sewing Machine Stitches for Hems

Beyond the straight stitch, your machine likely has other stitch options useful for hemming fabric with machine.

H4 Basic Stitches

• Straight Stitch: (Already discussed) Best for stable woven fabrics. Strong and neat.
• Zigzag Stitch: Good for finishing edges or for hemming stretch fabrics where the stitches need to stretch with the fabric. Also can be decorative.

H4 Specialty Hem Stitches

• Blind Hem Stitch for Shorts: (Already discussed briefly) Designed to be nearly invisible from the outside. Your machine will have a specific setting and often a special foot for this. It makes a straight line on the inside of the hem and catches just a tiny bit of the main fabric with a small zigzag peek on the outside.
• Stretch Stitches: Some machines have stitches that look like a lightning bolt or other patterns. These are designed for knit or stretchy fabrics because the stitch itself can stretch. Use one of these if hemming knit shorts or activewear.
• Twin Needle: Using a twin needle (two needles on one shaft) creates two parallel lines of straight stitches on the top and a zigzag on the bottom. This is excellent for hemming knits as the zigzag allows the hem to stretch, stopping stitches from breaking.

Understanding these sewing machine stitches for hems helps you choose the best one for your fabric and desired look, ensuring an easy sewing machine hem regardless of the fabric type.

Troubleshooting Common Hemming Problems

Sometimes things do not go perfectly the first time. Here are some common issues and how to fix them.

H4 Wavy Hem

This happens when the fabric gets stretched as you sew.

• Cause: Pulling the fabric while sewing, or the fabric is stretchy without using the right stitch.
• Fix: Don’t pull the fabric. Let the machine feed it. Use a walking foot if you have one, as it helps feed the layers evenly. For stretchy fabrics, use a stretch stitch or a twin needle. Pressing the hem really well before sewing also helps.

H4 Skipped Stitches

This means your machine is not forming stitches correctly.

• Cause: Wrong needle for the fabric (e.g., using a universal needle on denim or knit), a bent or dull needle, incorrect threading, or tension problems.
• Fix: Change your needle! Make sure it is new and suitable for your fabric type (denim needle for denim, ballpoint or stretch needle for knits). Re-thread your machine completely, top and bobbin. Check your tension settings – they might be too tight or too loose.

H4 Uneven Hem Width

One part of the hem is wider than another.

• Cause: Marking or cutting unevenly, or not folding and pressing the hem evenly.
• Fix: Careful measuring and marking are key before cutting. Use a hem gauge when folding and pressing to make sure the fold is the same width all around. Sew the same distance from the folded edge all the way around. Use the edge of your presser foot or marked lines on your machine as a guide.

H4 Hem Unraveling

The stitches are coming out.

• Cause: Not locking your stitches at the start and end (backstitching), or the thread broke.
• Fix: Always backstitch a few stitches at the beginning and end of your sewing line. Make sure your thread is strong enough for the fabric (especially important when hemming denim shorts). Check your tension – if it is too tight, the thread might snap easily.

Taking your time and double-checking steps can prevent many of these issues, leading to a perfect hem.

The Final Touches

You’ve sewn the hem on both legs! Almost done.

H4 Trim Threads

• Use small scissors or thread snips to carefully cut away any loose threads from your sewing. Trim them close to the fabric.

H4 Give It a Good Press

• Go back to your ironing board.
• Press the finished hem again from both the inside and the outside. Use the right iron temperature for your fabric.
• Pressing blends the stitches into the fabric and makes the hem lay flat and crisp. This makes a huge difference in how professional your hem looks.

Your shorts now have a neat, durable, and perfectly sized hem! You have successfully completed a DIY clothing alterations sewing project.

Deciphering DIY Clothing Alterations Sewing

Hemming shorts is a fundamental skill in DIY clothing alterations sewing. Once you can do this, you can tackle other projects like:

• Hemming pants or skirts.
• Taking in seams to make clothes smaller.
• Repairing rips or holes.
• Adding patches or decorations.

These skills save you money and allow you to create a wardrobe that fits you perfectly and reflects your personal style. Using your sewing machine for tasks like hemming fabric with machine power opens up a world of possibilities for customizing your clothes. An easy sewing machine hem is a great starting point for many other projects.

Frequently Asked Questions About Hemming Shorts

H4 What is the best stitch for hemming shorts?

For most woven fabrics like cotton or linen, a straight stitch with medium length (about 2.5 mm) is best for a strong, visible hem. For stretchy fabrics, a zigzag or a stretch stitch is better because it allows the hem to stretch without breaking the thread.

H4 How wide should a short hem be?

The width depends on your style and the fabric. A common width for shorts is 1 inch to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 4 cm) when finished. Wider hems look good on casual or denim shorts. Narrower hems (like 1/2 inch or 1 cm) can work for lighter fabrics or a more delicate look.

H4 Do I need a special foot for hemming?

For a standard straight stitch hem, you can use your machine’s regular presser foot. If you want to try a blind hem stitch, a blind hem foot makes it much easier to get the stitch just right. For thick fabrics like denim or tricky fabrics that slip, a walking foot can be very helpful.

H4 My machine struggles to sew over thick denim seams. What can I do?

Use a strong denim needle (size 16 or 18). You can gently hammer the seams flat before sewing. Go very slowly over the thick parts, even turning the handwheel by hand. A “Jean-a-ma-jig” or “hump jumper” tool can also help your presser foot get over the bulk. Consider using a single fold hem with a finished edge instead of a double fold to reduce bulk.

H4 How do I make sure my hem is even?

Measure and mark carefully when deciding your new length. Use a ruler or hem gauge to make sure your folded hem is the same width all the way around before you sew. Press the folds well with an iron before pinning and sewing. While sewing, use the edge of your presser foot or the markings on your machine’s needle plate as a guide to keep your stitch line a consistent distance from the folded edge.

H4 How do I hem stretchy shorts like knit activewear?

For stretchy fabrics, you need a stitch that can stretch with the fabric. Use a zigzag stitch, a stretch stitch from your machine’s options, or a twin needle with a straight stitch setting. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle, not a universal one, as these needles are designed to push fabric fibers aside instead of piercing them, which prevents runs or holes in knit fabrics.

H4 What does ‘finish the raw edge’ mean?

Finishing the raw edge means doing something to the cut edge of the fabric to stop it from unraveling or fraying. Common ways to do this on a sewing machine are using a zigzag stitch right on the edge, or using a serger (overlocker). If you are making a double fold hem, the raw edge is hidden inside the fold, so you do not need to finish it separately first.

H4 Can I hem shorts by hand?

Yes, you can. Hand hemming stitches like the slip stitch are very neat and nearly invisible from the outside. However, machine hemming is much faster and generally stronger, especially for everyday wear shorts. This guide focuses on how to hem fabric with machine techniques for speed and durability.

H4 What is a blind hem stitch for shorts?

The blind hem stitch is a sewing machine stitch designed so that most of the thread is hidden within the hem fold on the inside of the garment. On the outside, the stitch only catches a few threads of the main fabric at spaced points, making it look almost invisible. It’s a good option for a clean, tailored look, but it requires a specific machine setting and often a special presser foot, plus careful fabric folding.

H4 What is the difference between a single fold and double fold hem?

A single fold hem means you fold the fabric up only once to create the hem allowance. The raw edge is then finished separately (like with a zigzag stitch). A double fold hem means you fold the raw edge up once, then fold it up again. This hides the raw edge neatly inside the second fold and is sewn down with a stitch line near the top folded edge. The double fold is common for durability and hiding raw edges simply.

Your Perfect Hem Awaits!

Hemming shorts with a sewing machine is a rewarding skill. It lets you customize fit, repair damage, and update your style. By following these steps – from measuring and marking to cutting, folding, and sewing the hem using your machine – you can achieve professional-looking results. Remember to choose the right sewing machine stitches for hems, pay attention to finishing the hem edge, and use the correct needle and techniques, especially when hemming denim shorts. Practice makes perfect, and soon you will be able to create an easy sewing machine hem on any pair of shorts, adding to your DIY clothing alterations sewing abilities. Give it a try!