Can you hem clothes with a sewing machine? Yes, absolutely! Hemming with a sewing machine is a fantastic skill for beginners to learn. It’s a practical way to make your clothes fit better and look tidier. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from choosing the right settings to finishing your hem like a pro.
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Getting Started: Your Sewing Machine Essentials
Before you even think about fabric, let’s make sure your sewing machine is ready to go. Having the right setup makes a big difference.
Essential Sewing Machine Parts for Hemming
- Needle: This is crucial for piercing the fabric.
- Presser Foot: This holds the fabric down as you sew.
- Bobbin: This holds the lower thread.
- Feed Dogs: These move the fabric under the needle.
- Handwheel: This moves the needle up and down manually.
- Stitch Selector: This lets you choose different stitch patterns.
- Tension Dial: This controls how tight or loose the threads are.
Setting Up Your Sewing Machine
Proper setup is key for a smooth sewing experience.
Selecting the Right Sewing Machine Needle Types
The type of needle you use matters. Different fabrics need different needles.
- Universal Needles: These are great for most common sewing machine fabric types, like cotton and blends. They have a slightly rounded point.
- Sharps (or Quilting Needles): These have a sharper point, good for tighter weaves and making clean holes.
- Ballpoint Needles: These have a rounded tip that pushes through knits without snagging or damaging the fabric fibers.
- Denim/Jeans Needles: These are stronger and sharper, designed for thick fabrics like denim.
For beginners, a pack of universal needles is a good start. As you work with different sewing machine fabric types, you’ll learn which needles work best.
Mastering the Sewing Machine Bobbin Setup
The bobbin is half of your sewing equation!
- Wind the Bobbin: Most machines have a bobbin winder. Place a new bobbin on the winder spindle, thread the bobbin thread through the tension disc, and then through the hole in the bobbin. Hold the thread end and press the foot pedal. Wind until the bobbin is full, but not overflowing.
- Insert the Bobbin: Open the bobbin case (usually a small cover at the base of the machine). Place the wound bobbin into the case with the thread unwinding counter-clockwise (check your machine’s manual for the specific direction). Pull a few inches of thread through the slot.
- Thread the Upper Thread: Bring the upper thread up from the spool, guiding it through the tension discs, up around the take-up lever, down through the needle eye, and pull about 4-6 inches of thread through.
- Bring Up the Bobbin Thread: Hold the upper thread tail loosely. Turn the handwheel towards you to lower the needle. As the needle goes down and comes back up, it will catch the bobbin thread and bring it up with it. Pull the upper thread to bring the bobbin thread loop through the needle plate hole. You should now have both the upper and bobbin threads coming up together.
Choosing the Right Sewing Machine Presser Feet
While many basic hemming tasks can be done with the standard presser foot, some specialized feet make it easier.
- Standard Presser Foot: Works for most basic hemming.
- Zipper Foot: Useful if you need to sew close to a zipper or edge.
- Blind Hem Foot: This is a game-changer for invisible hems! It has a guide to help you catch just a few threads of the main fabric, making the stitches very hard to see on the right side.
- Rolled Hem Foot: Creates a neat, narrow rolled hem, perfect for lightweight fabrics like silk or chiffon.
For beginners, the standard presser foot is perfectly fine. As you gain experience, you might want to explore other sewing machine presser feet.
Adjusting Sewing Machine Thread Tension
Correct tension is vital for neat stitches.
- Too Loose: Threads loop on the fabric surface. Usually, the upper thread is too loose or the bobbin thread is too tight.
- Too Tight: Threads look puckered or can break easily. The upper thread is often too tight, or the bobbin thread is too loose.
Most machines have a tension dial, often numbered. For a standard straight stitch on most sewing machine fabric types, a setting between 3 and 5 is common. Always test your tension on a scrap of the same fabric you’re using.
Understanding Sewing Machine Stitch Types
While hemming, you’ll primarily use a few basic stitches.
- Straight Stitch: This is your workhorse for most hemming. Use it for strong, durable seams.
- Zigzag Stitch: A narrow zigzag stitch can be used for finishing raw edges to prevent fraying, especially on fabrics that unravel easily. You can also use it for stretchy fabrics as it allows for some give.
- Blind Hem Stitch: This specialized stitch looks like a tiny zigzag on the reverse side of the fabric and a small straight stitch on the right side, making it almost invisible.
For most basic hems, the straight stitch is all you need. If you’re working with knits or want to prevent fraying, a narrow zigzag is a good option.
Preparing Your Fabric for Hemming
Once your machine is ready, it’s time to get the fabric sorted.
Measuring and Marking Your Hem
Accuracy here ensures an even hem.
- Try On the Garment: Put on the garment and decide on the desired hem length. Use pins to mark where the bottom of the hem should be.
- Remove the Garment: Take off the garment and lay it flat.
- Mark the Hemline: Using a ruler or measuring tape and tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker, draw a line straight across your fabric at the point where you want the finished hem to sit.
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Add Hem Allowance: You need extra fabric to fold up for the hem. The amount depends on the fabric and the look you want.
- Narrow Hem: 1/2 inch to 1 inch (1.2 cm to 2.5 cm)
- Double Fold Hem: 1 inch to 2 inches (2.5 cm to 5 cm)
Fold the fabric up by your marked hemline, then fold it up again by the amount of your hem allowance. Press this second fold with an iron. This creates a clean, doubled edge.
Pressing is Key
Don’t skip the ironing! Pressing seams and folds as you go makes a huge difference. Use your iron to create crisp folds for your hem allowance. This helps the fabric stay in place as you sew.
Sewing Your Hem: Step-by-Step
Now for the actual sewing part!
Choosing Your Hem Type
There are several ways to hem, each with a slightly different look and technique.
The Double Fold Hem (Most Common for Beginners)
This is a durable and neat way to hem most fabrics.
- Prepare the Fabric: After measuring and marking, fold the raw edge up by about 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) and press. Then, fold it up again by your desired hem allowance (e.g., 1 inch or 2.5 cm) and press firmly. You should now have a double-folded edge.
- Secure the Fold: You can use pins to hold the folded hem in place. For thicker fabrics, you might use clips.
- Position Under the Presser Foot: Align the folded edge of the hem with the edge of the presser foot. Make sure the needle is positioned to sew along the top folded edge.
- Start Sewing: Lower the presser foot. Hold the fabric tails behind the needle. Gently press the sewing machine speed control pedal. Sew slowly and steadily.
- Sewing the Corners: If you come to a corner, sew up to the corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing.
- Finishing the Stitch: When you reach the beginning of your hem, backstitch for a few stitches to secure the thread. Cut the threads.
The Blind Hem (A More Advanced, Neater Finish)
This creates a nearly invisible hem on the right side of the garment. You’ll need a blind hem foot for this.
- Prepare the Fabric: Hem as for a double fold, but the second fold should be on the “wrong” side of the fabric. The raw edge should be enclosed within the fold. Press this fold.
- Attach the Blind Hem Foot: Replace your standard presser foot with the blind hem foot.
- Position the Fabric: Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the fold of the hem runs along the guide on the blind hem foot. The needle will swing over to catch a few threads of the main fabric on the right side.
- Select the Blind Hem Stitch: Choose the blind hem stitch on your sewing machine. It usually looks like a small zigzag with a straight stitch.
- Sew: As you sew, the needle will swing. The guide on the foot will position the fabric so that the needle only catches a few threads of the main fabric at a time. You want the stitches to be almost invisible from the right side.
- Backstitch and Finish: Backstitch at the beginning and end of the hem to secure your stitches.
The Rolled Hem (For Delicate Fabrics)
This creates a very narrow, neat rolled edge. A rolled hem foot is highly recommended for this.
- Prepare the Fabric: This hem starts with a raw edge. Some rolled hem feet require a slight initial fold, while others handle the rolling entirely. Check your foot’s instructions.
- Attach the Rolled Hem Foot: Swap your presser foot for the rolled hem foot.
- Thread the Machine: Ensure your sewing machine thread tension is set appropriately for lightweight fabric and that you are using the correct sewing machine needle types.
- Guide the Fabric: Feed the raw edge of the fabric into the slot on the rolled hem foot. The foot is designed to curl the fabric into a narrow roll as you sew.
- Sew Carefully: Use the sewing machine speed control to sew slowly. Guide the fabric into the foot evenly.
- Finish: Backstitch at the beginning and end.
Sewing Machine Seam Finishes for Hems
Even though a hem is on the edge, you might consider how the raw edge is treated.
- Serged Edge: If you have a serger, you can serge the raw edge of the fabric before folding for a very professional finish that prevents fraying.
- Zigzag Stitch: As mentioned, a zigzag stitch along the raw edge before folding is a good alternative to prevent fraying, especially if you don’t have a serger.
- Pinked Edge: Using pinking shears to cut the raw edge creates a zigzag edge that helps reduce fraying, though it’s less secure than a zigzag stitch or serging.
- Enclosed Hem: The double fold hem itself encloses the raw edge, making it a built-in sewing machine seam finish.
For most beginner hems, the double fold hem is the easiest and most effective way to finish the raw edge.
Working with Different Sewing Machine Fabric Types
The fabric you’re working with will influence your technique.
- Cotton & Blends: Generally easy to work with. Use a universal needle and standard settings. Double fold hems are great.
- Denim & Canvas: Thicker fabrics. You’ll need a stronger needle (like a denim needle) and might need to slow down your sewing machine speed control. A double fold hem works well, but can be bulky. Consider a single fold hem with a zigzag stitch on the raw edge.
- Knits (Jersey, T-shirt fabric): These fabrics stretch, so a regular straight stitch can break. Use a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch. A coverstitch machine is ideal for professional knit hems, but a zigzag or a twin needle on your regular machine can also work.
- Silks & Chiffons: Very lightweight and slippery. Use a universal or fine needle. A rolled hem or a narrow double fold hem is best. You may need to stabilize them with tissue paper or a specialty spray. Be very careful with sewing machine thread tension as it’s easy to pucker these fabrics.
Troubleshooting Common Hemming Issues
Even with the best intentions, things can go wrong.
Puckered Fabric
- Cause: Thread tension too tight, wrong needle type, fabric feeding unevenly.
- Solution: Check sewing machine thread tension, try a finer needle, ensure feed dogs are working, and sew slowly. Pressing the folds well before sewing also helps.
Skipped Stitches
- Cause: Bent or dull needle, incorrect needle type for fabric, improper threading, or bobbin issues.
- Solution: Change the needle, re-thread the upper thread and check sewing machine bobbin setup, ensure the needle is inserted correctly.
Thread Breaking
- Cause: Tension too tight, needle eye too small for thread, rough needle eye, or incorrect threading.
- Solution: Adjust sewing machine thread tension, try a different needle, re-thread the machine carefully, and ensure you’re using good quality thread.
Uneven Hemline
- Cause: Fabric not staying straight while sewing, inaccurate marking or cutting.
- Solution: Pin or clip your hem securely. Use seam guides on your machine or tape to help keep the edge straight. Practice sewing straight lines.
Basic Sewing Machine Maintenance for Hemming
Keeping your machine in good shape ensures it performs well.
Cleaning Your Machine
Dust and lint can build up.
- Remove Lint: After each project, or periodically, use a small brush (often provided with your machine) to clean around the needle plate, bobbin area, and feed dogs.
- Wipe Down: Use a soft, dry cloth to wipe the machine’s exterior.
Oiling Your Machine
Some machines require periodic oiling. Check your manual to see if yours does, and where to apply the oil.
Needle Care
Always use a sharp, appropriate needle. Replace it after about 8-10 hours of sewing or if you notice any issues like skipped stitches.
Practicing Your Skills
The best way to get good at hemming is to practice.
- Scrap Fabric: Use old sheets, pillowcases, or fabric remnants to practice different hem types.
- Start Simple: Begin with straight, simple hems on stable fabrics like cotton.
- Gradually Increase Difficulty: As you gain confidence, try hemming curved edges or more challenging sewing machine fabric types.
Conclusion
Hemming with a sewing machine is an achievable skill for beginners. By understanding your machine, preparing your fabric carefully, and practicing the techniques, you’ll be creating professional-looking hems in no time. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from any mistakes – that’s how you grow as a sewist!
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: What is the best sewing machine stitch for hemming?
A1: For most fabrics, a straight stitch is best for hemming. For stretchy fabrics, a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch is recommended. A blind hem stitch provides a nearly invisible finish.
Q2: Can I hem pants with a sewing machine?
A2: Yes, you can definitely hem pants with a sewing machine. The double fold hem is a common and effective method for pant hems.
Q3: How do I prevent fraying when hemming?
A3: You can prevent fraying by using a double fold hem, which encloses the raw edge. Alternatively, you can finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch or serge it before folding.
Q4: My stitches are uneven. What can I do?
A4: Uneven stitches can be caused by incorrect sewing machine thread tension, a bent or dull needle, or improper fabric feeding. Check your tension settings, try a new needle, and ensure you are guiding the fabric smoothly. Regular sewing machine maintenance also helps.
Q5: What is the purpose of a presser foot?
A5: A sewing machine presser foot holds the fabric securely against the feed dogs, ensuring it moves smoothly under the needle as you sew. Different sewing machine presser feet are designed for specific tasks.
Q6: How often should I change my sewing machine needle?
A6: It’s generally recommended to change your sewing machine needle types after about 8-10 hours of sewing time, or if you notice any issues like skipped stitches, thread breaking, or fabric snagging.