Can you sew a hem with a sewing machine? Yes, absolutely! Sewing a hem with a sewing machine is a fundamental skill for anyone looking to finish garments, curtains, or any fabric project. This guide will walk you through the process step-by-step, making it easy for even the newest sewer to achieve a professional-looking finish. We’ll cover everything from preparing your fabric to selecting the right stitches, ensuring your sewing machine hem is neat and durable. Whether you’re aiming to learn how to hem pants, create a clean finish on a dress, or simply master sewing edges, this guide is for you.
Image Source: www.sewessential.co.uk
Getting Ready for Your Sewing Machine Hem
Before you even thread your machine, some preparation is key. Think of it like setting up your workstation; the better organized you are, the smoother your sewing will be.
Gathering Your Tools
Having the right tools makes all the difference. Here’s what you’ll need:
- Sewing Machine: Of course! Make sure it’s in good working order.
- Thread: Matching your fabric color is ideal for a clean look, but contrasting thread can be used for decorative purposes.
- Fabric Scissors: Sharp scissors are crucial for cutting fabric cleanly.
- Pins: Straight pins to hold your hem in place.
- Iron and Ironing Board: Ironing is a non-negotiable step for crisp hems.
- Measuring Tape or Ruler: For accurate measurements.
- Fabric Marker or Chalk: To mark your hemline.
- Seam Ripper: For those inevitable little mistakes (we all make them!).
- Hemming Tape (Optional): A great tool for beginners to hold hems in place before sewing.
- Presser Foot: Your sewing machine will come with several. The standard one usually works well, but specialty feet can be helpful.
Choosing the Right Sewing Machine Stitches
Your sewing machine offers a variety of stitches, but for sewing a folded hem, a few are most useful.
- Straight Stitch: This is your workhorse. It’s perfect for most hems, especially those that don’t need to stretch. You’ll typically use a medium-length stitch (around 2.0-2.5mm).
- Zigzag Stitch: A zigzag stitch is excellent for fabrics that fray easily or for stretchy materials. It allows the hem to have some give. A narrow to medium width and short length zigzag is usually best.
- Blind Hem Stitch: This is a specialty stitch designed to be nearly invisible on the outside of the garment. It’s ideal for dress pants, skirts, and delicate fabrics. We’ll delve into this more later.
- Double Needle Stitch: This creates two parallel rows of stitching on the top and a zigzag stitch underneath, giving a professional, ready-to-wear look. It’s great for hemming trousers and knit fabrics.
Preparing Your Fabric for Hemming
This is where the magic starts to happen before the sewing machine does its work.
Measuring and Marking Your Hemline
- Try On Your Garment: Put on the item you’re hemming. If it’s pants or a skirt, wear the shoes you plan to wear with it.
- Decide on the Hem Depth: How wide do you want your hem to be? Common depths are 1 inch, 1.5 inches, or 2 inches. Consider the fabric type and the garment’s style.
- Mark the Finished Hemline: Using your fabric marker or chalk, mark where the bottom edge of the finished hem will sit. You can do this by placing pins at the desired length all around the garment, or by using a ruler to draw a line.
- Add Hem Allowance: This is the extra fabric you’ll need to fold. For a standard hem, you’ll add your desired hem depth twice (once for the first fold, once for the second). For example, if you want a 1.5-inch hem, you’ll add 3 inches to your marked hemline. Cut off any excess fabric below this new line.
Folding the Hem: The Foundation of a Good Finish
This is a crucial step for sewing a folded hem. Precision here leads to a professional result.
The Double Fold Hem
This is the most common and versatile hemming technique.
- First Fold: Fold the raw edge of the fabric up towards the inside of the garment by your desired hem allowance (e.g., 1.5 inches). Press this fold firmly with your iron.
- Second Fold: Fold the fabric up again, this time covering the raw edge. The width of this second fold should match the depth of your first fold (e.g., another 1.5 inches). The raw edge is now completely enclosed. Press this second fold firmly.
- Pinning: Pin the hem in place. For very thick fabrics, you might only do a single fold. For very thin fabrics, you might use hemming tape here to secure the folds before pinning.
Using Hemming Tape (Optional but Recommended for Beginners)
Hemming tape can make the folding process much easier.
- Apply Tape to the Raw Edge: Fold the fabric up by half your hem allowance (e.g., 0.75 inches for a 1.5-inch hem). Place hemming tape along this raw edge.
- Press: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your hemming tape, usually involving pressing with a hot iron. This will secure the raw edge.
- Fold Again: Now, fold the fabric up again by the remaining hem allowance (e.g., 1.5 inches). The raw edge is again enclosed. Press well and pin.
Sewing the Hem: Bringing It All Together
Now that your hem is prepped and pressed, it’s time to head to the sewing machine.
Step-by-Step Sewing Guide
Using a Straight Stitch
This is for projects where you want a secure and durable hem that doesn’t need much stretch.
- Thread Your Machine: Use a thread that matches your fabric.
- Select Straight Stitch: Choose the straight stitch on your machine and set your stitch length to about 2.0-2.5mm.
- Position Your Fabric: Place the folded and pinned hem under the presser foot. Align the edge of the fabric with the seam guide on your machine’s throat plate, or use the edge of your presser foot as a guide. For a neat finish, you want your stitching to be about 1/8 inch away from the folded edge.
- Backstitch: Start sewing by backstitching a few stitches to secure the beginning of your seam.
- Sew Slowly and Evenly: Guide the fabric gently, allowing the machine to do the work. Keep your eye on the seam guide or presser foot to ensure an even stitch line. Continue sewing around the entire hem.
- Backstitch at the End: When you reach the beginning, backstitch a few stitches to secure the end of your seam.
- Trim Threads: Carefully trim any excess threads.
- Final Press: Press the hem one last time from the outside of the garment. This will give it a crisp, professional finish.
Using a Zigzag Stitch
This is ideal for knit fabrics or materials that tend to fray.
- Thread Your Machine: Use matching or contrasting thread.
- Select Zigzag Stitch: Choose your zigzag stitch. For most fabrics, a narrow to medium width (around 1.5-2.5mm) and a short length (around 1.0-1.5mm) works well.
- Position Your Fabric: Place the folded and pinned hem under the presser foot. You have two main options for placement:
- Stitching on the Fold: Position the fabric so the needle straddles the folded edge. The “left” swing of the needle catches the folded edge, and the “right” swing catches the main fabric. This is a very secure method.
- Stitching on the Body: Position the fabric so the needle is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch away from the folded edge on the main fabric. This is similar to the straight stitch method but offers more flexibility for stretchy fabrics.
- Backstitch: Start by backstitching to secure.
- Sew Slowly: Guide the fabric evenly. If using the “stitching on the fold” method, ensure the needle is always catching both the folded edge and the main fabric.
- Backstitch at the End: Secure the end with a backstitch.
- Trim Threads and Press: Trim threads and give the hem a final press.
Mastering the Blind Hem Stitch
This stitch is a game-changer for achieving nearly invisible hems. It requires a bit of practice and potentially a specific presser foot.
What is a blind hem stitch? A blind hem stitch is a sewing machine stitch that is designed to catch only a few threads of the main fabric on the outside, while a wider zigzag stitch secures the hem on the inside. This creates a very discreet hemline.
Can I use a blind hem stitch on any fabric? While it works on many fabrics, it’s best on medium-weight to lightweight woven fabrics. It can be trickier on very thick or very sheer fabrics, and on knits, a serger or a regular zigzag stitch is often preferred.
How to Sew a Blind Hem:
- Prepare the Hem: Follow the steps for a double fold hem, but with a slight adjustment.
- Fold the raw edge up towards the inside by your desired hem allowance (e.g., 1.5 inches). Press.
- Now, fold the fabric again, but this time, fold it back on itself. The folded edge of the hem should extend about 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from the main garment seam. Press this fold firmly.
- Pin in place.
- Change Presser Foot (Optional but Recommended): Many machines come with a blind hem foot. This foot has a guide that helps you catch the correct amount of fabric. If you don’t have one, you can still do it with the standard foot, but it requires more careful guiding.
- Select the Blind Hem Stitch: Consult your sewing machine manual to find the correct blind hem stitch. It usually looks like a few straight stitches followed by a wider zigzag.
- Position the Fabric: Place the fabric under the presser foot with the inside of the garment facing up. Position the hem so that the fold you created is against the guide on the blind hem foot (or about 1/8 inch from the center needle position if using a standard foot). The needle should swing to the left to catch just a few threads of the main fabric, and then swing right into the fold.
- Sew with Care: Start sewing. The blind hem foot’s guide will help you catch the right amount of fabric. If you don’t have the foot, be very mindful of only catching 1-2 threads of the main fabric on the left side of the stitching. The wider zigzag stitch should fall within the folded hem allowance.
- Backstitch and Finish: Backstitch at the beginning and end. Trim threads.
- Turn and Press: Turn the garment right side out. The stitching should be almost invisible from the outside. Press the hem well.
Using a Double Needle
For stretchy fabrics or a decorative finish, a double needle is excellent.
- Install a Double Needle: Replace your single needle with a double needle. Make sure it’s compatible with your sewing machine.
- Thread Your Machine: You will need two spools of thread. Thread the upper thread as usual. Then, thread the second spool through the second upper thread guide and the second needle eye. Ensure the threads don’t cross each other.
- Select Straight Stitch: Choose your straight stitch. The stitch length is usually set to the default or slightly longer (2.5-3.0mm).
- Prepare the Hem: For knits, a double fold hem is often too bulky. A common hemming technique for knits is a single fold hem.
- Fold the raw edge up by about 1/2 inch to 1 inch.
- Press well and pin. You can also use a lightweight fusible interfacing to stabilize the fold if needed.
- Position and Sew: Place the folded hem under the presser foot. Align the edge of the fold with a seam guide. The two needles will create two parallel lines of stitching on the top. On the underside, your machine will automatically create a zigzag stitch to hold the fabric together and allow for stretch.
- Backstitch and Finish: Backstitch carefully. Trim threads and press.
Common Hemming Challenges and How to Solve Them
Even with practice, you might encounter a few hiccups. Here are some common issues and solutions for finishing hems.
My Hem is Wavy
- Cause: Often due to the fabric stretching as you sew, especially with knits or loosely woven fabrics.
- Solution:
- Use a walking foot or a double-feed system on your sewing machine.
- Ensure your presser foot pressure is not too high.
- Try sewing with a shorter stitch length for knits.
- Stabilize the fabric with a strip of wash-away stabilizer or tissue paper placed under the hem as you sew.
- Make sure you pressed your folds well before sewing.
My Stitching Isn’t Straight
- Cause: Inconsistent guiding of the fabric.
- Solution:
- Use seam guides on your machine’s throat plate.
- Use painter’s tape to create your own guide.
- Focus on keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with your chosen guide.
- Slow down! Rushing is the enemy of straight stitching.
My Thread is Bunching Up (Birdnesting)
- Cause: Usually an issue with tension, threading, or needle.
- Solution:
- Re-thread your machine: Top and bobbin. Make sure the presser foot is up when threading the top thread.
- Check your tension: Ensure both top and bobbin tensions are set correctly. Sometimes, simply adjusting the top tension dial can fix it.
- Check your needle: Is it sharp? Is it the correct type for your fabric? A bent or dull needle can cause this.
- Ensure the bobbin is wound correctly: Not too loose, not too tight.
My Blind Hem Stitch is Visible
- Cause: Catching too much of the main fabric on the outside, or the stitch is too wide.
- Solution:
- Adjust your blind hem stitch settings to a narrower zigzag width.
- Practice on a scrap piece of fabric. Pay close attention to how the needle is catching the fabric.
- Ensure your fabric is positioned correctly against the guide of the blind hem foot.
- If you don’t have a blind hem foot, try to catch only 1-2 threads on the edge of the fabric.
Finishing Hems with Different Fabrics
The fabric you are working with will influence your choice of sewing machine hem and technique.
Hemming Pants (Trousers)
Hemming trousers often involves a sturdy fabric like denim, cotton twill, or wool.
- Double Fold Hem: This is the most common method for trousers.
- Fabric Type: Cotton twill, denim, wool blends.
- Stitch: Straight stitch is usually sufficient. For stretch denim or wool, a narrow zigzag can add durability.
- Hem Depth: Typically 1 to 2 inches, depending on style.
- Special Consideration: For heavier fabrics like denim, you might need a heavier needle (size 90/14 or 100/16) and stronger thread. A jeans needle is ideal. When sewing over thick seams (like side seams or inseams), you can “flatten” the seam allowance with your iron or use a seam roll to ease the bulk under the presser foot.
Hemming Skirts and Dresses
This category covers a wide range of fabrics and styles.
- Woven Fabrics (Cotton, Linen, Silk):
- Stitch: Straight stitch or blind hem stitch for a clean finish.
- Hem Depth: Varies greatly, from a narrow rolled hem on delicate silks to wider hems on linen skirts.
- Blind Hem Stitch: Excellent for finishing hems on skirts and dresses where you want the stitching to be invisible.
- Knit Fabrics (Jersey, Interlock):
- Stitch: Zigzag stitch or a double needle stitch is essential to allow the hem to stretch with the fabric.
- Hem Depth: Often a narrower hem (1/2 to 1 inch) works best to avoid bulk.
- Preparation: A single fold hem is usually sufficient for knits. Using a walking foot is highly recommended.
Curtains and Home Decor
These items often use sturdier fabrics and might not require the same level of invisibility as clothing.
- Fabric Type: Canvas, duck cloth, upholstery fabrics.
- Stitch: A strong straight stitch is usually perfect.
- Hem Depth: Can be quite deep (2-3 inches or more) to add weight and stability to the curtain.
- Preparation: Ensure your folds are pressed very firmly. You might need a heavier-duty sewing machine or a specific needle for these thick materials.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about Sewing Machine Hems
Q1: How wide should I make my hem allowance?
A1: The hem allowance depends on the fabric and the garment. For most clothing, 1 to 2 inches is standard. For thicker fabrics or a more substantial look, you might go up to 3 inches. For delicate fabrics or knitwear, a narrower hem allowance (1/2 to 1 inch) is often preferred. Always consider the fabric’s weight and how it will fold.
Q2: Can I hem without a sewing machine?
A2: Yes, you can hand-sew a hem, but it takes more time and skill to achieve a neat, durable finish. A machine-sewn hem is generally stronger and faster.
Q3: What’s the difference between a machine hem stitch and a blind hem stitch?
A3: A “machine hem stitch” usually refers to the standard straight stitch or zigzag stitch used to secure a folded hem. A “blind hem stitch” is a specialized stitch that is designed to be almost invisible on the outside of the fabric, by catching only a few threads of the main fabric.
Q4: How do I prevent my hem from puckering?
A4: Puckering is usually caused by the fabric stretching as you sew. Try using a walking foot, reducing presser foot pressure, using a shorter stitch length, or stabilizing the fabric with tissue paper or a wash-away stabilizer. Ensure your fabric is well-pressed before sewing.
Q5: When should I use a blind hem stitch versus a regular stitch?
A5: Use a blind hem stitch when you want the stitching to be invisible on the outside of the garment, such as on dress pants, skirts, or delicate fabrics where a visible stitch would detract from the appearance. Use a regular straight stitch or zigzag stitch for less visible areas, or when you want a stronger, more durable seam, or if the fabric is stretchy and requires a flexible stitch.
By following these steps and practicing these techniques, you’ll become proficient in sewing machine hems. Mastering these hemming techniques will elevate your sewing projects, making everything from hemming trousers to creating beautiful curtains a rewarding experience. Happy sewing!