Master How To Tailor Dress Shirt For A Custom Fit

Knowing how to alter a shirt that is too big is a useful skill. It lets you make clothes fit you better. Tailoring a dress shirt usually means changing things like the sleeves, the body (waist and chest), or the length. You can learn to do some basic fixes yourself, or you can take the shirt to a pro. This guide will show you how to make a dress shirt fit just right.

How To Tailor Dress Shirt
Image Source: bespokeunit.com

Why Make Your Shirt Fit Better?

Wearing a shirt that fits well makes you look good. It feels more comfortable too. Ready-made shirts often fit okay, but not perfectly for everyone. People have different body shapes. A shirt might be too loose here or too long there. Learning to alter dress shirt helps you get a fit that looks like the shirt was made just for you.

Getting Ready to Tailor

Before you start cutting and sewing, you need to get ready. This means knowing what you need and planning what you will do.

Getting the Right Fit

The first step is to know how you want the shirt to fit. Put on the shirt you want to change. Look at it in a mirror. Move around. Where is it too loose? Where is it too long?

Think about:
* Shoulders: Do the shoulder seams sit right on your shoulder bone? This part is hard to change. Pick shirts where the shoulders fit well from the start.
* Chest: Is it too tight or too loose across your chest?
* Waist: Does the shirt hang straight down like a box? Or do you want it to follow your body shape more? Taking in shirt waist is a common change.
* Sleeves: Are they too long or too wide? Do you want to tailor shirt sleeves?
* Cuffs: Are they too big around your wrist? You can tailor shirt cuffs.
* Length: Is the shirt too long to wear untucked? You might want to make it shorter.

Try on a shirt that fits you well if you have one. See how it feels and looks. This gives you an idea of your goal fit.

Knowing Your Tools

You need a few basic tools to start resizing dress shirt yourself. You don’t need fancy stuff for simple jobs.

Here is a list of helpful tools:

Sewing Machine: A basic sewing machine for shirt alterations makes the work much faster and stronger than hand sewing.
Good Scissors: You need sharp scissors just for fabric. Paper makes fabric scissors dull.
Measuring Tape: A soft, flexible tape measure is best for bodies and clothes.
Fabric Chalk or Pens: These mark the fabric where you need to sew or cut. The marks wash away.
Pins: Pins hold fabric together before you sew.
Seam Ripper: This tiny tool helps you take out stitches. You will need it to open seams.
Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing your fabric as you sew makes a big difference. It makes seams flat and neat.
Matching Thread: Pick thread that is the same color as the shirt’s stitches or fabric.
Straight Edge or Ruler: Useful for drawing straight lines for cutting or sewing.
Tailor’s Ham or Sleeve Board: These shaped pads help iron curved parts like sleeves or body seams.

You can do some small jobs by hand, but a sewing machine is very helpful for making strong, even seams, especially when resizing a whole shirt.

Simple Alterations You Can Do

There are several ways you can make a shirt fit better. Some are easier than others. Let’s look at some common ones.

How to Take In the Waist

Taking in the waist makes the body of the shirt narrower. This gives the shirt a less boxy look. It is one of the most common DIY shirt tailoring tasks.

Finding Where to Sew

Put the shirt on inside out. This is important.
Put pins along the side seams. Pin where you want the shirt to be tighter. Start pinning below the armpit and go down to the bottom hem. Follow the curve of your body.
Take the shirt off carefully.
Lay the shirt flat. Use a ruler and fabric chalk to draw a line where you pinned. This line shows your new seam. Make sure the line is smooth. It should start at the armpit seam and curve gently down.
Check your lines. Make them the same on both sides of the shirt.

Sewing the New Seam

Thread your sewing machine with matching thread.
Set your machine to a simple straight stitch. A stitch length of about 2.5 mm is good.
Start sewing at the armpit seam. Sew slowly along your chalk line.
Backstitch a few stitches at the start and end. This locks the stitches so they don’t come undone.
Sew down to the bottom hem.
Do the same thing on the other side of the shirt.

Checking and Finishing

Try the shirt on inside out again. See if the fit is right. If it’s still too loose, you can sew another line a bit further in. If it’s too tight, use your seam ripper to take out the stitches and try again.
Once the fit is good, you need to deal with the extra fabric. Leave about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) of fabric outside your new stitch line.
Cut off the extra fabric carefully.
Finish the raw edge of the cut fabric. This stops it from fraying. You can use a serger if you have one. Or you can use a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine along the raw edge. Another way is to press the raw edge under and stitch it down (a French seam is also an option but harder).
Press your new seams flat with an iron. Press the side seams towards the back of the shirt.

Taking in the waist can make a big difference in how a shirt looks.

How to Shorten Dress Shirt Sleeves

Sleeves that are too long look messy. Shortening them is another common alteration. This is often part of how to alter a shirt that is too big overall.

Figuring Out How Much to Cut

Put the shirt on.
Fold the sleeve up to where you want it to end. Pin it in place. Make sure it looks right on both arms.
Take the shirt off.
Measure how much you folded up. Write this number down.
You need to keep the cuff. You will cut the sleeve off above the cuff.
Use your seam ripper to carefully remove the cuff from the sleeve end. Take out all the stitches and separate the cuff. Be gentle not to tear the fabric.

Cutting the Sleeve

Lay the sleeve flat. Measure from the raw edge where the cuff was attached. Measure up the amount you want to remove from the sleeve length.
Add seam allowance. You need fabric to re-attach the cuff. Look at how the cuff was attached before. It usually needs about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance. So, measure up the length you want to remove PLUS the seam allowance.
Draw a straight line across the sleeve at this mark using your chalk and ruler.
Cut along this line carefully. Do this for both sleeves.

Re-attaching the Cuff

This part can be a little tricky because shirt cuffs are often folded and stitched in a specific way.

Look closely at how the cuff was attached before you took it off. See how the fabric was folded.
Place the cuff right side down on the right side of the sleeve end. Line up the raw edge of the cuff with the raw edge of the sleeve. If the sleeve has pleats or gathers at the cuff, make sure to put those back in the right spot. Pin in place all around.
Sew the cuff to the sleeve using a straight stitch. Use the old stitch line on the cuff as a guide, or sew about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) from the edge.
Press the seam towards the sleeve.
Now, flip the cuff down into its normal position. The seam you just sewed is hidden inside.
The inside of the cuff is usually stitched down neatly. Fold the raw edge of the inside cuff piece under by about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).
Pin the folded edge of the inside cuff so it covers the seam you just made on the inside of the sleeve.
Stitch the inside cuff down. You can sew from the outside, “stitching in the ditch” (sewing right in the groove of the seam you already made), or sew from the inside, making sure your stitches catch the folded edge on the back. Sewing from the outside often looks neater.
Press the finished cuff.

Shortening sleeves takes practice, but it’s a great way to improve the fit.

How to Tailor Shirt Cuffs

Sometimes the sleeves are the right length, but the cuffs are too loose around your wrist. You can make them smaller.

Put the shirt on and button the cuff.
Pinch the extra fabric on the cuff edge that doesn’t have a button or buttonhole. Pin how much you want to take out.
Take the shirt off.
You will sew a new seam near the button. This new seam will be on the part of the cuff that overlaps.
Lay the cuff flat. Draw a line from the edge of the cuff, going inwards, by the amount you want to reduce it. This line will be parallel to the short edge of the cuff.
Sew along this line. Backstitch at both ends.
Try the shirt on. Check the cuff fit. If it’s good, trim the extra fabric, leaving about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) seam allowance.
Finish the raw edge with a zig-zag stitch or serger to prevent fraying.
Press the new seam.

This simple change makes the sleeve look much neater on your wrist.

Fixing Baggy Sleeves

Sometimes the whole sleeve is too wide, not just the cuff. This is a bit more complex but doable. You are essentially taking in the sleeve seam from the armpit down to the cuff.

Put the shirt on inside out.
Pin along the underarm seam of the sleeve, starting at the armpit seam and going down towards the cuff. Pin where you want the sleeve to be narrower.
Take the shirt off carefully.
Lay the sleeve flat. Use chalk to draw a smooth line from the armpit seam down to the cuff, following your pins.
Sew along this line with your machine. Backstitch at start and end.
Try the shirt on inside out to check the fit.
Once happy with the fit, trim the extra fabric, leaving about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).
Finish the raw edge (zig-zag or serge).
Press the new seam towards the back of the sleeve.

Tailor shirt sleeves means you can fix length and width.

Shortening the Shirt Length (Hemming)

If you wear your shirts untucked, the length is important. A shirt that is too long looks bad this way. You can shorten the bottom hem.

Deciding on the New Length

Put the shirt on.
Fold the bottom hem up to the length you want. Pin in place.
Take the shirt off.
Measure how much you folded up.
You need to remove this amount PLUS the amount of fabric used for the old hem. Look at the original hem. How wide is the fold? It might be 1/2 inch, 1 inch, or more. You will need to create a new hem fold. A simple double fold hem is common. This means you fold the fabric edge up 1/4 inch, then fold it up again another 1/4 inch. This uses 1/2 inch of fabric. Or you might do a wider hem.
Use your seam ripper to take out the original hem stitches. Unfold the original hem fabric.
Measure up from the original bottom edge of the shirt. Measure the amount you want to shorten PLUS the width of the new hem you plan to make. (Example: want to shorten by 2 inches, plan a 1/2 inch double hem. Measure up 2.5 inches from the original bottom).
Draw a straight line across the shirt at this mark using chalk and ruler.

Cutting and Sewing the New Hem

Cut along the line you drew.
Now create the new hem. If doing a 1/2 inch double hem:
- Fold the raw edge up by 1/4 inch (about 0.6 cm) and press it flat.
- Fold it up again by another 1/4 inch and press it flat. The raw edge is now hidden inside the fold.
Pin the folded hem in place all the way around the bottom of the shirt.
Sew close to the inner folded edge using a straight stitch. Stitch all the way around.
Press the finished hem flat.

Shortening the hem is a good way to update an older shirt to wear untucked.

Advanced Adjustments

Some changes are harder. Changing the shoulders or the collar takes more skill. Resizing dress shirt often focuses on the waist and sleeves because these are the easiest and most common fit problems.

DIY Tailoring vs. Professional Tailor

You can do many simple tailoring jobs yourself. DIY shirt tailoring saves money. It can be rewarding. But it takes time and practice. You might make mistakes at first.

Taking a shirt to a professional tailor costs money. But they have skill and special tools. They can do complex changes. They can often make the shirt fit perfectly.

Here is a simple comparison:

Feature	DIY Tailoring	Professional Tailor
Cost	Low (just materials, machine is a one-time cost)	Higher (paying for skill and service)
Time	Takes your time to learn and do	Faster (they do it for you)
Skill Needed	You need to learn sewing skills	Tailor has the skill
Result Quality	Depends on your skill level and practice	Usually very high
Complexity	Best for simple changes (waist, sleeves)	Can do any change, complex or simple

Think about the tailoring cost for shirt before deciding. Simple changes like taking in the waist or shortening sleeves are often cheap enough at a tailor that it might be worth it if you don’t want to sew. However, doing it yourself means you can fix many shirts over time.

Estimating Tailoring Cost for Shirt

The cost to alter a shirt can vary a lot. It depends on:

What needs doing: Shortening sleeves is usually cheaper than taking in the whole body.
Where you live: Prices are often higher in big cities.
The tailor’s skill: Highly skilled tailors might charge more.
The shirt fabric: Some fabrics are harder to work with.
How the shirt is made: Simple shirts are easier to alter than complex ones.

Here are some rough ideas of costs (these can change a lot):

Taking in the sides/waist: $20 – $40
Shorten dress shirt sleeves: $15 – $35 (without moving placket/button, just cutting and re-hemming)
Shorten sleeves and move cuff/placket: $25 – $50+
Shortening the hem: $15 – $30
Tailor shirt cuffs (make narrower): $10 – $20
Resizing dress shirt (full job – waist, sleeves): $40 – $80+

These are just estimates. Always ask the tailor for a price before they start work. Comparing prices at a few tailor shops is a good idea.

Making DIY Shirt Tailoring Easier

If you want to do it yourself, here are some tips:

Start Simple: Don’t try to redo the shoulders on your first try. Start with taking in the sides or shortening a simple hem on an old shirt.
Practice: Use old shirts or scrap fabric to practice sewing straight lines, curves, and finishing edges.
Read and Watch: Look for sewing guides and videos online. They can show you different methods.
Measure Twice, Cut Once: Check your measurements and marks many times before you cut fabric. You can’t put it back!
Press As You Go: Ironing seams open or to the side as you sew makes a huge difference in how neat the final job looks.
Use the Right Needle: Use a sharp needle in your sewing machine that matches your fabric type.
Don’t Rush: Take your time with each step. Sewing carefully is faster in the long run than rushing and making mistakes.

Sewing Machine for Shirt Alterations

You don’t need a super fancy machine for shirt alterations. A basic sewing machine with a straight stitch and a zig-zag stitch is enough for most jobs like taking in seams, shortening sleeves, and hemming.

What to look for in a machine for this work:
* Straight Stitch: For sewing the main seams.
* Zig-Zag Stitch: For finishing raw edges so they don’t fray.
* Free Arm: A part of the machine that removes, leaving a narrow base. This is very helpful for sewing small tubes like sleeves and cuffs.
* Ability to Sew Different Fabrics: Most shirt fabrics (cotton, linen, blends) are medium weight. Most basic machines handle these fine.
* Ease of Use: A machine that is easy to thread and change settings on.

You can find good used machines or new basic ones at reasonable prices. A sewing machine for shirt alterations opens up many possibilities for fitting clothes yourself.

When to See a Professional Tailor

While DIY shirt tailoring is great, some jobs are best left to pros:

Shoulder Adjustments: This is complex and changes the whole structure of the shirt.
Collar Changes: Also difficult to do well.
Major Resizing: If a shirt is many sizes too big, it might need very complex changes that alter many parts. Sometimes, buying a shirt closer to your size is better.
Expensive Shirts: If you have a very costly shirt, you might not want to risk practicing on it.
Lack of Time or Interest: If you don’t enjoy sewing or don’t have time to learn, a tailor is a good choice.

A tailor can look at your shirt and tell you what changes are possible and what the tailoring cost for shirt will be.

Grasping the Details of Fit

Getting a custom fit is about more than just making a shirt smaller. It’s about shaping it to your body.

Think about:
* Ease: This is the amount of extra fabric you have beyond your body’s measurement. A well-fitting dress shirt needs some ease so you can move. You don’t want it painted on! When you take in seams, make sure you leave enough ease.
* Balance: Make sure changes are even on both sides of the shirt.
* Flow: The lines of the shirt should look smooth on your body. Taking in the waist too much without fixing the chest area can look strange.

Resizing dress shirt is an art as much as a science. It takes practice to get it just right.

Common Fit Problems and How to Fix Them

Here are some common ways a shirt might fit poorly and the tailoring fixes:

Problem: Shirt is too wide and boxy through the body.
- Fix: Take in shirt waist and sides.
Problem: Sleeves are too long.
- Fix: Shorten dress shirt sleeves by cutting above the cuff and re-attaching it.
Problem: Sleeves are too wide or baggy.
- Fix: Take in the sleeve seam from the armpit down.
Problem: Cuffs are too loose around the wrist.
- Fix: Tailor shirt cuffs by sewing a new seam near the button.
Problem: Shirt is too long to wear untucked.
- Fix: Shorten the bottom hem.
Problem: Armholes are too low (makes movement hard, looks baggy).
- Fix: This is a harder fix. It involves raising the armhole seam. Often better left to a pro or avoided when buying the shirt.

Knowing how to alter a shirt that is too big covers most of these common issues.

Caring for Your Altered Shirt

After you alter dress shirt, care for it like you normally would. Wash and iron it. The new seams should hold up well if they are sewn properly with backstitching and finished edges.

If you notice stitches coming out, you can fix them. That’s the beauty of having a sewing machine for shirt alterations!

Conclusion

Mastering how to tailor dress shirt takes time and effort, but it is a valuable skill. You can save money, make your clothes fit better, and even give old shirts a new life. Start with simple changes like taking in shirt waist or shorten dress shirt sleeves. As you get more practice with your sewing machine for shirt alterations, you can try more complex jobs like tailoring shirt cuffs or fixing baggy sleeves. Whether you go the DIY route for the tailoring cost for shirt or choose a professional, a well-fitting shirt makes a big difference.

Frequently Asked Questions

h4 id=”faq”What types of shirts can I tailor myself?

You can tailor most woven dress shirts made from cotton, linen, or blends. Thicker fabrics or shirts with complex details (like pleats, special pockets, or unique seams) can be harder to work with. Knit shirts (like t-shirts or polos) need different sewing skills and machine settings.

h4Can I make a shirt bigger?

Making a shirt bigger is much harder than making it smaller. There is usually no extra fabric hidden in the seams to let out. Sometimes, you might be able to get a tiny bit more room by letting out the side seams, but it often leaves stitch marks or doesn’t give much extra space. Generally, you cannot make a shirt bigger in any meaningful way.

h4How much can I take in a shirt?

You can take in a shirt quite a bit, especially at the waist. However, taking in too much might make the shirt look out of proportion. The armholes might look too big for the now-narrow body, or the chest might still be too big compared to the waist. There are limits to how much you can resize dress shirt before it looks strange.

h4Is it worth it to tailor a cheap shirt?

This depends on your goals. If you are learning DIY shirt tailoring, practicing on cheap shirts is a great idea. If you are paying a professional tailor, the tailoring cost for shirt might be more than the shirt is worth. For professional tailoring, it usually makes more sense for higher-quality shirts that you really like.

h4How do I measure myself for tailoring?

You need someone else to help you measure accurately. Measure around your chest at the widest part, around your natural waist (usually near your belly button), and the length of your arm from the shoulder seam to where you want the cuff to sit. Compare these numbers to the shirt’s measurements to see where changes are needed.

h4What if I mess up when tailoring myself?

Mistakes happen, especially when you are learning DIY shirt tailoring. Sometimes, a mistake can be fixed by using the seam ripper and sewing again. Sometimes, a mistake means the shirt is ruined. This is why starting with less important shirts and practicing is a good idea.